beginner’s guide to quilting - david & charles

REPRObeg_guide_quilting.indd 33REPRObeg_guide_quilting.indd 33 2/8/13 7:55 AM2/8/13 7:55 AM

Beginner’s Guide

to QuiltingLearn to quilt with this easy project

Elizabeth Betts

Tools and EquipmentIt can be appealing to buy lots of haberdashery when you start making patchwork. I suggest you begin with a hand sewing kit, then buy other sewing tools as and when you need them. A good basic hand sewing kit should contain needles, thread, scissors, thimble, pins, tape measure and seam ripper. Keep your sewing kit in a box. There are some pretty ones available to buy, although a toolbox from a DIY store does the job just as well! It is also worth having a notebook and pencil handy when sewing to jot down notes and ideas as you stitch.

Basic kit

Needles: Use Sharps for hand piecing, and embroidery or chenille needles for hand quilting with perle thread. Buy a pack of needles with different sizes so you can try them to see which one you feel most comfortable using.

Thread: Make sure you buy a good brand from a sewing shop as it will be colour-fast and you will be less likely to have tension issues with your sewing machine. For piecing cotton fabric it is best to use 50-weight 100 per cent cotton thread. Natural colours, such as light grey or beige, tend to tone with most fabrics, so buy them on large reels to save money and trips to the shop to buy more thread when you run out. For big stitch hand quilting, I use perle thread in a size 8. For machine quilting, look for threads specially made for this purpose as they will be stronger.

Scissors: It is handy to have at least two pairs: a large pair for cutting fabric, and a small pair for snipping threads. It is also good to keep a pair of paper scissors in your sewing box so you aren’t tempted to use your fabric scissors on template plastic or paper as this will blunt them.

Thimble: These are available in metal, plastic and even leather. Try out different styles and sizes to see what suits you.

Pins: Different types of pins are available, but for patchwork look for long, fi ne pins. Flower- or glass-headed pins are handy if you work in a space also used by children or pets, as you can spot them easily if you drop them.

Tape measure: A standard tape measure is fi ne; however, if you plan to make large quilts, look for an extra long (120in/300cm) one.

Seam ripper: This is an essential tool for unpicking seams quickly.

Notebook and pencil: These are handy to keep nearby when sewing to make notes on, for example, colour of thread used, size of stitch, or ideas that come to mind while sewing.


Other quilting tools Marking tools: These are used to mark sewing or quilting lines on the fabric. The types most widely used are:Chalk based – pencils, tailor’s chalk, propelling pencils.Pens – water-soluble or vanishing pens. Adhesive tape – low-tack masking tape, ¼in (0.6cm) wide. Pressure based – the Hera marker uses a pressure to mark quilting lines.

Quilter’s safety pins: These are normally curved to make using them easier. They hold the layers of the quilt together ready for quilting.

Rotary cutter: If you are machine piecing, one of these is essential. Rotary cutters come in several sizes, but the 45mm is the one most widely used for patchwork (see p21 for more information).

Self-healing mat: An A2 size mat is the most useful, as it comfortably fi ts a piece of 44in (110cm) wide fabric folded in half. I also fi nd an A3 size handy if sewing at home on a small table (see page 21 for more information).

Acrylic ruler: Rulers come in many different shapes and sizes, from small 4in (10.2cm) squares to hexagons and circles (see page 21 for more information).

Sewing machine: There are some lovely sewing machines marketed at quilters; however, all you need to start is a basic sewing machine that sews a straight stitch. If you are trying patchwork for the fi rst time, it may be that you can borrow a sewing machine, which will give you a better idea of what you are looking for when it comes to buying one. For quilt making using a sewing machine, it is handy to buy a ¼in (0.6cm) foot, a darning foot and a walking foot to go with the standard feet that come with your machine. More details of these are given in the machine piecing and machine quilting sections (see pages 19 and 27). You can get useful advice from specialist sewing machine shops, which will usually let you try one out. Some features, such as needle up/down, speed control and the ability to machine sew a blanket stitch, are handy to have, but these are not essential.

Template plastic: This is a sheet of a strong plastic that is used to make patchwork or quilting templates.


Piecing

For piecing, use100 per cent cotton, 50-weight thread as it is suitable for both hand and machine piecing, and easy to fi nd.

Hand piecingSewing patchwork by hand is really enjoyable. It is often portable so you can work for an hour in the evening in front of the television, then take it into work and do another 30 minutes on it in your lunch break. It has a reputation for being slow to do, but hand sewing while doing another activity means it uses 'down time'. Is's faster to piece on the sewing machine, but if you don't have a dedicated sewing room where you can keep your machine set up, it is much more convenient to have sewing you can pick up and put down.

Keep everything you need in a small box, such as a pretty vintage tin, then all you have to do is open the tin and start sewing where you left off. I use Sharps needles for hand piecing. Buy a pack of needles that contains different sizes and try different ones to see which one suits you.

The most important thing about hand piecing is to make sure that the beginning and end of your seam are really secure. If you are making something to be quilted after it is hand pieced, this will add to the strength of the item.

The main method of hand piecing that I use is English paper piecing.

In patchwork, piecing is the term used for sewing fabric together. It can be done by hand, or on the machine. Try piecing using both methods to see what suits you. When piecing together fabrics that are different colours, use thread in a beige or grey colour as your eye will not be drawn to it like it would be for a white thread. When I fi nd a neutral colour that works, I buy large reels as it is economical and convenient. If making a quilt with fabrics in predominantly one colour, say blue, I would then use a mid-blue colour thread.


3Thread a needle and tie a knot in the end. Fold the seam allowance over the piece of paper and

tack (baste) in place using a large running stitch.

English paper piecing This technique tacks (bastes) fabric to paper shapes, which are then oversewn. It is good for making patchwork with different regular shapes, such as hexagons and diamonds, hence it is also sometimes known as mosaic patchwork.

2Pin the paper piece to the back of the fabric. Using scissors, cut around the shape, leaving a

generous ¼in (0.6cm) seam allowance all around.

1Make a template out of card or template plastic. Draw round the template on to paper – scrap paper

is fi ne – and cut out the shape from the paper.

4Place two patches on top of each other, right sides together. To oversew the patches together, thread

a needle and start ¼in (0.6cm) in from the edge of the piece where you want to start, and take a few tiny stitches back to the edge, which serves as a backstitch to secure the thread. Then work your way along the seam and sew a few reverse stitches at the end of the fabric to secure. Keep sewing the patches together in this manner. If you are making a large quilt, work in small units then join them together later.

5When you have fi nished making the patchwork, take out the tacking (basting) stitches and the

paper backing. Keep the paper backings as they can be used for another project.

4

2

3


Every respectable sewing box should have a handmade needle book! This project is straightforward to make and uses only small pieces of fabric and felt. The hexagon rosette on the front is made using the English paper piecing technique, where the fabric is tacked (basted) over paper templates before the shapes are sewn together. I am a huge fan of this technique as it is portable; I take a small tin of work along with me when waiting to collect my children from their after-school activities. You can make larger pieces of patchwork using this technique but it can be time-consuming, so this small project is a good way to try it out before committing to making a quilt. English paper piecing should come with a warning though, as it is addictive!

FINISHED SIZE: 5in x 4½in (12.7cm x 11.4cm)

❉ 4¼in x 4¼in (10.8cm x 10.8cm) felt for the rosette backing

❉ 5in x 9½in (12.7cm x 24.1cm) felt for the needle bookcover

❉ 4½in x 9in (11.4cm x 24.1cm) felt for the inside page ofthe needle book

❉ 7 pieces of fabric, a minimum of 2¼in (5.7cm) square❉ 100% cotton thread for tacking (basting) and piecing❉ Perle thread, no 8❉ Pinking shears (optional)❉ Scissors, for paper and fabric❉ Ruler and pencil❉ A4 paper, photocopy weight❉ Glue stick❉ 4in (10.2cm) square of card❉ Pins❉ Sharps sewing needle❉ Iron❉ Chenille needle

❉ If you have bought large pieces of felt, cut them down to size now. I cut the two rectangular shapes with pinking shears. If you don’t have any, cut them straight-edged with normal scissors.

❉ To make the hexagon template, trace the template provided on to paper. Trim, leaving a border approximately ½in (1.3cm) from the line, then stick the shape on to card. Cut out the shape along the line. Place the template on your paper, and cut out seven shapes using scissors.

Patchwork Rosette Needle Book

Ready. .Get.


1Pin one of the paper hexagons to the wrong side of a piece of fabric and cut the fabric round the paper

shape, leaving a ¼in (0.6cm) seam allowance. Repeat with each hexagon, using whatever fabric you wish.

3Lay out your hexagons and, once they are in an order you are happy with, pick up the central

one and one of the border ones. Place their right sides together. Using a colour thread that tones with the project, thread a needle. Start stitching ¼in (0.6cm) in from the right end, holding the end of the thread; oversew a few stitches to the beginning, then stitch along the seam, sewing back by ¼in (0.6cm) at the end. This acts like a backstitch to secure the stitching. Sew the other fi ve hexagons on to the central hexagon in the same way.

5Press the rosette with a medium hot iron (so you don’t scorch the paper). Then carefully unpick the

tacking (basting) stitches and take the paper out. Don’t throw the paper away as it can be re-used.

2Pick up one of the shapes and fold the excess fabric to the back. Thread a needle and tie a knot

in the end. Fold the excess fabric over the paper, then sew through the paper and fabric, folding the corners as you go. When you come to the end of the stitching, sew a single backstitch. Repeat this with each hexagon.

4Sew up between the rows using the same method.

1

2

3

Sew. . .


Patchwork Rosette Hexagon Template Actual size

6Place the hexagons in the centre of the felt square and pin into place. Slipstitch around the rosette

using a toning thread. Don’t worry too much about your stitching on the back – it will not be seen.

8Draw a line in pencil down the centre of the felt to be used for the inside of the needle book. Lay

the outside of the book right side down and place the inner page in the centre. When you are happy it is in place, pin to secure then, using perle thread, sew up the line with running stitch. Fold the book in half and fi nger press down the fold. It is now ready to use.7

Fold the felt for the needle book cover in half and press the fold with your fi nger to help hold it in

place. Place the felt-backed rosette on the front in the centre. Using the perle thread and a chenille needle, sew a running stitch around the edge of the felt square. I started using a knot, which I hid in the layers, then fi nished with a backstitch, also hidden between the layers of fabric.

Draw up a bigger hexagon

template and use the rosette to

go in the centre of a cushion

Take it further…

8

7


beginner’s guide to quilting - david & charles

Documents