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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:Constantine Bogios, Jed Breed, Mara De Monte, Sylvie Gelinas, David Hixson, Max Holmberg, Patricia Kubala, Harriet Lawrence, Adrien Maggiora, Stephane Schockaert, Charice Silverman, Tomasz Smaczny, Felix Wagner, Estefania Walsh

AUTHOR THANKSJohn HechtThanks to the countless number of good people in the Yucatán who helped make this wonderful journey so special. Special gratitude goes out to commissioning editor Cliff Wilkin-son, co-author Lucas Vidgen, the book’s pre-vious authors, Yurij Gabassi and my wife, Lau, who looked after two hyperactive kitties.

Lucas VidgenThanks first and foremost to the Mexicans for making such an enjoyable country to travel and work in. Specifically, Andres and Sylvia were a huge help in San Cristóbal, and the Campeche section wouldn’t have been the same without Alonso Escobar and his compadre César. And as always, thanks to América, Sofía and Teresa for being there, and being there when I got back.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, pp1633–44.

Chichén Itzá illustration pp186–7 by Michael Weldon

Cover photograph: Cenote at Dzitnup (X’Kekén), JoseIgnacioSoto/Getty Images ©.

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

310

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

THIS BOOKThis 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán guidebook was re-searched and written by John Hecht and Lucas Vidgen. The previous edition was written by John Hecht and Sandra Bao. The ‘Yucatecan Cuisine’ chapter was written by Mau-

ricio Velázquez de León. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Clifton WilkinsonProduct Editors Kate Chap-man, Saralinda TurnerSenior Cartographer Mark GriffithsBook Designer Michael Buick

Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Melanie Dankel, Bruce Evans, Paul Harding, Lauren O’Connell, Kristin Odijk, Vicky Smith, Fionnuala TwomeyAssisting Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Andi Jones, Karyn Noble, Lyahna Spencer

311©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccommodations 18, 284-6

language 302-3travel with children 43

activities 24-5, 286, see also canoeing & kayaking, diving & snorkeling, horseback riding, kiteboarding, surfing, zip-lining

agriculture 277aguas frescas 267Ah Tz’ib 273air travel 295-6airports 17, 295Aktun Chen 101Aktun-Ha 121Akumal 110-11, 35alcohol 266-8algae 99aluxes 102Ángeles Verdes 299animals 278-80, see also

individual animals, wildlife-watching

ants, leaf-cutter 123archaeological sites 20,

37-41, 37, 39, 40, 41Aguada Grande 88Balamkú 221Becán 224-5Bonampak 246-7Calakmul 13, 221-4, 13Casa de la Vieja 163Casa de las Tortugas 162Casa del Adivino 162, 23Castillo de Kukulcán 169Chicanná 224Chichén Itzá 14, 183-91,

184, 14, 40, 186-7Cobá 15, 121-4, 2, 15Comalcalco 241

Corredor Arqueológico 139-40

Cuadrángulo de las Monjas 162

Dzibanché 139-40Dzibilchaltún 177-8Dzibilnocac 215-16Edzná 216-17, 216, 29Ek’ Balam 195-6, 5El Caracol 188El Castillo 184-5El Castillo Real 88El Cedral 86El Osario 188El Palomar 163El Tabasqueño 215El Tigre 222Gran Juego de Pelota 185Gran Pirámide 163Grupo de las Mil

Columnas 185Grutas de Calcehtok 160Hochob 215Hormiguero 226Isla Cerritos 197Izamal 183Kabah 164-5Kinich-Kakmó 181Kohunlich 140Labná 165Mayapán 168-9Oxkintok 160Palacio del

Gobernador 162Palenque ruins 9, 241-3,

242, 8-9, 41Río Bec 226San Gervasio Ruins 88San Miguelito 56Santa Rita 140-1Sayil 165Templo de las

Inscripciones 242Templo del Barbado 185Tohcok 215

tours 41Tulum ruins 11, 114, 115,

114, 11, 27Uxmal 160-3, 161, 23,

37, 39Xcambó 180Xlapak 165Xpuhil 225Yamil Lu’um 56Yaxchilán 246, 247-8Zona Arqueológica El

Rey 56architecture

books 275colonial 21-2Maya 274-6

area codes 292art galleries, see also

museumsMuseo de Arte

Contemporáneo 143Museo de Arte Popular de

Yucatán 147Museo Subacuático de

Arte 57talleres de arte

(Izamal) 181arts 22, 157, 263-4Atasta Peninsula 220ATMs 290autumnal equinoxes, see

equinoxesAzul 106

BBahía de San Francisco 112Bahía Solimán 112Bahías de Punta

Solimán 112Balamkú 221ball courts 262

Becán 224Calaxmul 223Chichén Itzá 185, 186-7,

186-7

Cobá 122Palenque ruins 243Uxmal 162

baluartes 204banks 290bargaining 19baseball 172, 262bathhouses 196, 274beaches 20

Campeche 208Cancún 56-7, 15Ciudad del Carmen

219-20El Cuyo 199Isla Contoy 13, 13Isla Cozumel 86Isla Holbox 10, 71, 10Isla Mujeres 77Mahahual 129Playa del Carmen 103Progreso 178San Felipe 200Telchac Puerto 180

Bécal 213-14Becán 224-5beekeeping 219, 261beer 267Belize 141, 296Belize Barrier Reef 277bicycling 300-1birds & bird-watching 14,

199, 278-9, 14Bahías de Punta

Solimán 112Celestún 176Hacienda Real de

Salinas 174Isla Contoy 70Isla Holbox 71Punta Laguna 124Reserva de la Biosfera Ría

Celestún 174Río Lagartos 197Uaymitún 180Xcalak 131

312

IND

EX B- C

bloodletting 272blowholes 88boat travel 197, 296-7,

see also canoeing & kayaking, tours

Bonampak 246-7books 250, 263

architecture 40, 275environment 280history 252, 254, 258Maya 256, 274wildlife 278, 279

border crossingsBelize 141, 296Guatemala 296

bus travel 297-8, 300safety 238

business hours 291

CCalakmul 13, 221-4, 13Calle 60 146-7cameras 291

etiquette 264camiones 300Campeche (city) 15, 201-13,

206-7, 15accommodations 201,

209-10activities 203-8attractions 203-8climate 201drinking 211entertainment 211festivals & events 208-9food 201, 210-11highlights 202, 202history 203information 212tours 208travel seasons 201travel to/from 212travel within 212-13

Campeche (state) 52, 201-26, 202

Cancún 15, 50, 54-74, 55, 58, 15

accommodations 54, 59-61

activities 57-8beaches 56-7children, travel with 65courses 58

day trips 68drinking & nightlife 66entertainment 67food 54, 61-6highlights 55, 55history 56information 67-8orientation 67safety 57, 67-8shopping 67sights 56tours 58-9travel seasons 54travel to/from 69-70travel within 70

canoeing & kayaking 176Bahías de Punta

Solimán 112Felipe Carrillo Puerto 128Isla Holbox 72Isla Mujeres 78Mahahual 130Xcalak 131

cantinas 49car travel 298-300

safety 300Cárdenas, Guty 264Carnaval 24

Campeche 208Chetumal 135Ciudad del Carmen 220Isla Cozumel 84Mérida 151San Miguel de

Cozumel 91Casa de los Venados 191Casa de Montejo 143Casa del Adivino 162, 23Caste War, the 173, 257-8cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves, see also cenotes

Aktun Chen 101Grutas de Balankanché

188-9Grutas de Calcehtok 160Grutas de Loltún 168, 28Grutas de

X’tacumbilxuna’an 215La Boca del Diablo 173Laguna de Mokú 222Las Grutas de Rancho

Nuevo 238CDs 264Celestún 14, 174-7, 14cell phones 16, 292Cenote Angelita 114Cenote X’Kekén 192-3, 2

cenotes 34, 166-7, 188, 277, 278, 9, 166-7

Aktun-Ha 121Azul 106Ben Ha 124Boca del Puma 99Cenote Angelita 114Cenote Azul 133Cenote Manatí 113Cenote X’Kekén 9, 167,

192-3, 2, 9, 166-7Cenote Xlacah 178Cenote Zací 193Cenotes de Cuzamá 169Cenotes Miguel

Colorado 222Cristalino Cenote 106Cuzamá 166, 167,

169, 167Dos Ojos 112, 167, 34, 166Dzitnup (X’Kekén) 9, 167,

192-3, 2, 9, 166-7El Jardín del Edén 106Gran Cenote 120-1, 167,

21, 166Multún-Ha 123Tamcach-Ha 123Xcacel-Xcacelito 112Zacil-Ha 121

cerveza 267Chaltún Há 183Champotón 217-18Chetumal 134-9, 136Chiapas 52, 227-39,

241-8, 228-9accommodations 227climate 227etiquette 247food 227highlights 228, 228-9history 230safety 247travel seasons 227

Chicanná 224Chichén Itzá 14, 183-91,

184, 14, 40, 186-7accommodations 189-90activities 189food 190history 183information 190sights 184-9travel to/from 190travel within 190-1

chikungunya virus 288children, travel with

22-3, 42-4Cancún 65

chilies 268chocolate 265

chocolaterías 211, 237museums 163, 231

Christianity 251, 262-3, 273-4

Chunchucmil 177churches & cathedrals

Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Purísima Concepción 203

Catedral de San Ildefonso 146

Convento de San Antonio de Padua 181

Convento de Sisal 191Ex-Convento de

Santo Domingo de Guzmán 230-1

Franciscan church 173Franciscan

monastery 196Iglesia de Jesús 147Iglesia de San Antonio

de Padua 169Iglesia de San Francisco

de Asis 172, 213Iglesia La Mejorada 147San Cristóbal de las

Casas 230Templo 230-1Templo de San

Bernardino 191Templo de San Juan 238

cinemasCancún 67Isla Holbox 74

Ciudad Cancún 59-61, 61-4, 66, 62

Ciudad del Carmen 219-20

climate 16, 24-5, 285clothing 18Cobá 15, 121-4, 122, 2, 15cochinita pibil 154, 10, 47codices 256, 257coffee 47, 231colectivos 301collect calls 292Colombia Shallows 89Columbus, Christopher

255Comalcalco 241combis 301comiteco 236consulates 286-7Corozal 140-1Corredor Arqueológico

139-40


313IN

DEX C

- HCosta Maya, the 51,

126-41, 127festivals & events 126food 126highlights 127, 127travel seasons 126

costs 17, 48, 285courses 286

cooking 47, 100, 149, 151dance 58, 72, 74, 105,

108, 151language 23, 100, 105,

149, 231, 234yoga 72, 82, 234, 235

Cozumel, see Isla Cozumelcrafts 22, 157cranial deformation 135credit cards 16, 290, 292Cristalino Cenote 106crocodiles 279

Celestún 176Champotón 217Crococun Zoo 65Laguna de Nichupté 57Río Lagartos 197Tabasco 239Yaxchilán 248

Cuauhtémoc 183culture 260-4currency 16, 17, 290customs regulations 286Cuzamá 166, 167, 167cycling, see bicycling

Ddance 22, 264

lessons 58, 72, 74, 105, 108, 151

dangers, see safetyDay of the Dead 25, 151,

267-8, 45day trips

Cancún 68Chiapas 244Mérida 158Yucatán 170

dengue fever 288Día de la Marina 198Día de Muertos 25, 151,

267-8, 45Díaz, Porfirio 258disabilities, travelers

with 293discounts 19, 286diving & snorkeling 20,

32-6, see also cenotesAkumal 111, 35Banco Chinchorro 129

Cancún 57Isla Cozumel 11, 88,

89-90, 11, 32, 36Isla Mujeres 77, 78Mahahual 129-30Museo Subacuático de

Arte 57Paamul 110Parque Dos Ojos 112Playa del Carmen

103, 105Puerto Morelos 99Punta Allen 125safety 36shipwrecks 99, 129,

158, 36Tulum 114Xcalak 132

Dos Ojos (cenote) 112, 167, 34, 166

drinking water 289drinks 49, 236, 266-7driving, see car traveldrugs 250DVDs 264, 288Dzibanché 139-40Dzibilchaltún 177-8Dzilam de Bravo 180Dzitnup (X’Kekén) 9, 167,

192-3, 2, 9, 166-7

Eeconomy 251ecotourism 71, 281Edzná 216-17, 216, 29Ek’ Balam 195-6, 5El Castillo 184-5El Corchito 178El Cuyo 199El Jardín del Edén 106electricity 286embassies 286-7emergencies 17

language 304endangered species 280environment 277-82environmental issues 282equinoxes 24, 178, 183,

185, 276Estructura 44 178etiquette 19

Chiapas 247dining 49photography 247, 264

events, see festivals & events

exchange rates 17

FFelipe Carrillo Puerto 128-9festivals & events

24-5, 220Campeche 208-9Carnaval 24, 84, 91, 135,

151, 208, 220Cruzando Fronteras 130Día de la Marina 198Día de los Reyes

Magos 196Día de Muertos 25, 151,

267-8, 45Feria de la Primavera y

de la Paz 234Feria del Cedral 91Festival Cervantino

Barroco 234Festival de las

Culturas 234fiesta food 267-8Jats’a Já Festival 130La Feria de Santiago 198Mérida 24, 151Riviera Maya 97Semana Santa 234Vernal Equinox 24

films 250fish 279-80fishing

Cancún 57Celestún 176Chetumal 135Dzilam de Bravo 180Isla Holbox 71Isla Mujeres 77-8Mahahual 130Playa del Carmen

103, 105Punta Allen 125Río Lagartos 198San Felipe 200Xcalak 132

flamingos 14, 180, 197, 199, 281, 14, see also birds & bird-watching

food 10, 22, 45-9, 265-71, 10, 45, 47, 48, 49, see also individual locations

Campechano cuisine 210chocolate 163, 211, 231,

237, 265coffee 47, 231cooking courses 47, 100,

149, 151etiquette 49honey 219, 261, 267

language 269-71, 303-4seasons 46

fortsFuerte de San Miguel

206Fuerte Museo San José

del Alto 207Laguna Bacalar 133

fútbol 262

Ggalleries, see art galleries,

museumsgay travelers 287geography 277-82glossary 269-71, 307-8Gran Cenote 120-1, 167,

21, 166Great Maya Barrier Reef 277Green Angels 299Grutas de Calcehtok 160Grutas de Loltún 168, 28-9Guatemala 296

Hhabanero chilies 268Habuk 183haciendas 175, 177

Hacienda Mundaca 83Hacienda Real de

Salinas 174Hacienda San Ildefonso

Teya 175Hacienda San Lorenzo

Oxman 191-2Hacienda San Pedro

Ochil 175Hacienda Santa Rosa 175Hacienda Xcanatún 175Hacienda Yaxcopoil 175

hammocks 156handicrafts 22, 157health 287-9

insurance 289heat exhaustion 289Hecelchakán 213hepatitis A 288highlights

Campeche 202Cancún 55Chiapas 228Costa Maya 127Isla Cozumel 85Isla Mujeres 76Riviera Maya 98Tabasco 228Yucatán 144

314

IND

EX H- M

hikingCenotes Miguel

Colorado 222Isla Contoy 70San Cristóbal de las

Casas 230Síijil Noh Há 128

historybooks 252, 254, 258Campeche 203Cancún 56Caste War, the 173, 257-8Chiapas 230Chichén Itzá 183Cobá 121Independence 257internet resources

253, 259Isla Cozumel 85-6Isla Mujeres 77Maya 252-5Mérida 143Mexican Revolution 258-9oil production 259Olmec influence 252Spanish conquest &

colonial period 255-7Toltecs 254Tulum 113Uxmal 161-2Valladolid 191

hitchhiking 300holidays 291honey 219, 261, 267Hopelchén 214Hormiguero 226horseback riding

Boca del Puma 44, 99Celestún 174, 176Isla Cozumel 90, 93Isla Holbox 72Punta Venado 109

hurricanes 125, 131, 250, 278Hwy 27 179

Iimmigration 295incense 256indigenous peoples 240insects 231insurance

car 299health 289

internet access 289internet resources 17

culture 262environment 281history 253, 259Maya books 255Maya ruins 40music 264wildlife 282

Isla Aguada 218Isla Cerritos 197Isla Contoy 13, 70-1, 13Isla Cozumel 11, 51, 84-96,

85, 87, 90accommodations

84, 91-3activities 88-91drinking & nightlife 94entertainment 95festivals & events 91food 84, 93-4highlights 85, 85history 85-6information 95shopping 95sights 86-8travel seasons 84travel to/from 95travel within 95-6

Isla de Pájaros 218Isla Holbox 10, 71-4, 10Isla Mujeres 12, 50, 76, 80

accommodations 75, 78-9

activities 77-8beaches 77drinking & nightlife 82food 75, 79-82highlights 76, 76history 77information 82-3orientation 82tours 77-8travel seasons 75travel to/from 83travel within 83

itineraries 26-9Itzá 254-5Itzamatul 183Izamal 181-3

Jjaguars 124, 163, 279, 282jipijapas 214juego de pelotas, see ball

courts

KKabah 164-5Kan B’alam II 241K’an Joy Chitam II 241kayaking, see canoeing &

kayakingKimbilá 183kiteboarding 57, 199

LLa Feria de Santiago 198la lotería 211Lacandón Jungle 248lacandones 240, 248Laguna Bacalar 12, 133-4,

2, 12Laguna de Términos 218-19Laguna Yal-Kú 110-11Landa, Friar Diego de 256language 251, 260, 302-8

courses 23, 100, 105, 149, 231, 234

food & drinks 269-71, 303-4

Spanish 302-5useful phrases 19Yucatec Maya 306

Las Coloradas 199leaf-cutter ants 123legal matters 289lesbian travelers 287literature, see booksLoltún Caverns, see Grutas

de Loltún

MMahahual 129-31malaria 288Malecón 205Mamita’s Beach 103mammals 279maps 289-90, 299markets 102

Cancún 67Mérida 146Oxkutzcab 171San Cristóbal de las

Casas 231Valladolid 191

Maya 172, 272-6, see also archaeological sites

architecture 37-41, 274-6body art 135books 40, 256, 274calendar 41, 257, 276codices 256, 257

community-based tourism 41, 71

history 252-5honey 219internet resources 40,

255, 259museums 38, 135, 147,

178, 231Popol Vuh 273religion 272-4

Mayapán 168-9meal times 268measures 288Méndez, Sierra Justo 205Mennonites 208Mérida 12, 143-60, 148-9, 12

accommodations 151-3activities 149courses 149drinking & nightlife 155entertainment 155festivals & events 151food 153-5history 143information 156-7orientation 156shopping 155-6sights 143-9tours 149-51travel to/from 157-9travel within 159-63

Mérida Fest 24, 151Mesoamerican Barrier

Reef 277meteorites 253mezcalerías 49mobile phones 16, 292money 17, 290

bargaining 19discount cards 286discounts 19taxes 265tipping 19, 265, 290transfers 290

monkeys 279Montejo, Francisco de

254, 255Montejo, Francisco de

(the Younger) 143, 191, 254, 255

mosquitoes 18, 71, 288motorcycle travel 298mugging 291-2murals 146museums 219, see also art

galleriesCafé Museo Café 231Casa de los Venados 191


315IN

DEX M

- SCasa de Montejo 143Centro Cultural y

Artesanal 181Centro Ecológico

Akumal 110Choco-Story 163Gran Museo del Mundo

Maya 147Maya 38Museo Arqueológico de

Campeche & Fuerte de San Miguel 206

Museo Arqueológico del Camino Real 213

Museo Bichos e Insectos 231

Museo Capitán Dulché 77

Museo de Historia Natural 239

Museo de la Arquitectura Maya 204

Museo de la Ciudad 135, 146, 204

Museo de la Cultura Maya 135

Museo de la Guerra de Castas 173

Museo de la Isla de Cozumel 86

Museo de la Medicina Maya 231

Museo de Naturaleza y Arqueología 221-2

Museo de San Roque 191Museo de Sitio 242Museo del Ámbar de

Chiapas 231Museo del Archivo

General de Estado 204Museo del Cacao 231Museo del Pueblo

Maya 178Museo Maya de

Cancún 56Museo Regional de

Antropología 147, 239Na Bolom 231Parque-Museo La

Venta 239Santa Elena Museum 163

music 263-4

Nnational parks & reserves

20-1, 281-2, see also parks & gardens, wildlife reserves

El Corchito 178Parque Dos Ojos 112

Parque Nacional Isla Contoy 70-1

Parque Nacional Palenque 241-2

Parque Punta Sur 86, 88Reserva de la Biosfera

Calakmul 222Reserva de la Biosfera

Ría Celestún 174Reserva de la Biosfera

Ría Lagartos 197Sian Ka’an Biosphere

Reserve 124-5newspapers 288nightlife 22, 49numbers 303

OOlmec people 252opening hours 291Oxkintok 160Oxkutzcab 171-2

PPaamul 109-10packing lists 18Pakal 241Palancar Gardens 89Palenque 241-5Palenque ruins 9, 241-3,

242, 8-9, 41panuchos 47, 49parks & gardens, see

also national parks & reserves

Jardín Botánico Dr Alfredo Barrera Marín 99

Jardín Botánico Xmuch Haltún 204

Parque-Museo La Venta 239

Parque Santa Lucía 146Punta Sur 77

Parroquia Los Santos Reyes de Tizimín 196

Paseo de Montejo 147-9passports 295phone cards 293photography 291

etiquette 247, 264pickpocketing 291-2pirates 205planning

budgeting 17calendar of events 24-5Cancún, Cozumel & the

Yucatán basics 16-17

Cancún, Cozumel & Yucatán regions 50

children, travel with 22-3, 42-4, 65

first-time visitors 18-19food 45-9internet resources 17itineraries 26-9off the beaten track

30-1, 30-1travel seasons 16, 24-5vaccinations 287-8

plants 280-1Playa del Carmen

103-9, 104accommodations 105-7activities 103-5beaches 103drinking & nightlife 108food 107-8information 109safety 109shopping 108tours 105travel to/from 109travel within 109

Plaza Grande 143-6Plaza Principal 203-4politics 250-1Popol Vuh 273population 208, 240,

251, 261-2postal services 291pox 236pozol 236Progreso 178-9public holidays 291Puerto Morelos 99-103, 21Punta Allen 124, 125Punta Bete 103Punta Laguna 124Punta Molas 88Punta Sur Reef 89Punta Venado 109Puuc Route 165-8pyramids 272, 273,

275, 276, see also archaeological sites

QQuintana Roo, see

individual locations

Rramparts 204recados 266

religion 251, 262-3, 272-4resorts 20, 60Río Bec 226Río Lagartos 197-9Riviera Maya 51, 97-125, 98

beaches 97festivals & events 97food 97highlights 98, 98travel seasons 97

robbery 291-2Ruta Puuc 165-8

SSabancuy 218safety 291-2

Cancún 57, 67-8Chiapas 247children, with 42-3diving & snorkeling 36hitchhiking 300Playa del Carmen 109road 300San Cristóbal de las

Casas 238Tulum 120women travelers 294

salsa lessons 58, 72, 74, 105, 108, 151

San Crisanto 180San Cristóbal de las Casas

11, 230-8, 232-3, 11accommodations 234-6courses 231, 234drinking & nightlife 237festivals & events 234food 236-7information 237safety 238sights 230-1tours 234, 238travel to/from 237-8travel within 238

San Felipe 200tours 200

San Gervasio 88San Juan Chamula 238-9San Miguel de Cozumel

86, 90Santa Clara 180Santa Elena 163-4Santa Rosa Wall 89scorpions

bites 289symbolism 240

scuba diving, see diving & snorkeling

316

IND

EX S- Z

sea turtles, see turtlesseaweed 99Selva Lacandona 248Selvática 101Semana Santa 151shipwrecks 99, 129,

158, 36smoking 288snake bites 289snorkeling, see diving &

snorkelingsoccer 262sopa de lima 10, 43, 47,

266, 48Southern Caribbean Coast,

see Costa Maya, theSpanish language 302-5spelling 260sports 262sunburn 289surfing

Cancún 57Isla Cozumel 91

sweat lodges 196, 274swimming 21, 34, see also

beaches, cenotesChichén Itzá 189El Corchito 178Hacienda San Lorenzo

Oxman 191-2Laguna Bacalar 133

TTabasco 227-8, 239-41,

228-9talking cross 258Tankah 113tascalate 236taxes 265, 290, 296taxis 301Tekax 172-3telephone services 16, 292-3temascals 196, 274Temple of the Seven

Dolls 178Templo de las Siete

Muñecas 178theaters

Cancún 67Mérida 146, 147

theft 291-2theme parks 44, 65, 101Ticul 169-71Tihosuco 173

time 16, 293language 305

tipping 19, 265, 290Tizimín 196-7Tohcok 215Toltecs 254toucans 124, 222, 239,

241, see also birds & bird-watching

tourist information 293tours

Atasta Peninsula 220Campeche 208Cancún 58-9, 65Celestún 174, 176Isla Contoy 70Isla Holbox 71-2Isla Mujeres 77-8Laguna Bacalar 133Maya ruins 41Mérida 149-51Playa del Carmen 105Río Lagartos 197-8San Cristóbal de las

Casas 234, 238San Felipe 200Tulum 114Valladolid 193

traditional clothes 157, 263, 264

transportation 295-301language 305

travel seasons 16, 34travel to/from Cancún,

Cozumel & the Yucatán 141, 295-7

travel within Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 297-301

traveling off the beaten track 30-1, 30-1

trekking, see hiking, national parks & reserves

Tulum 113-20, 114, 116-17accommodations 114-18activities 114drinking & nightlife 119food 118-19history 113information 120orientation 119-20safety 120shopping 119sights 114tours 114travel to/from 120travel within 120

Tulum ruins 11, 114, 115, 114, 11, 27

turtles 280Akumal 110-11, 35Isla Contoy 54Isla Mujeres 12, 75,

78, 12Paamul 110Puerto Morelos 99Sabancuy 218volunteering 294Xcacel-Xcacelito 112

TV 288typhoid fever 288Tzeltal people 230, 240Tzotzil people 230, 238,

240, 263

UUaymitún 180Uxmal 160-3, 161, 23,

37, 39

Vvacations 291Valladolid 191-5, 192vegan travelers 268vegetarian travelers 268Velázquez, Diego 255vernal equinoxes 24, see

also equinoxesvideo 291Villahermosa 239-41visas 16, 293-4volunteering 294

Wwalking, see hiking,

national parks & reserves

water 289water parks 44, 65, 101weather 16, 24-5, 285websites, see internet

resourcesweights 288whale sharks 25, 35, 72,

279, 280Isla Contoy 70Isla Holbox 54, 71Isla Mujeres 75, 77, 78

wildlife 278-81books 279

wildlife reserves, see national parks & reserves, wildlife- watching, zoos

wildlife-watching 197, 218, see also birds & bird- watching, individual species

windsurfing 93women travelers 294World Heritage sites

Calakmul 13, 221-4, 13Campeche 15, 52,

201-26, 202, 206-7, 15

Chichén Itzá 14, 183-91, 184, 14, 40, 186-7

Palenque ruins 9, 241-3, 242, 8-9, 41

Sian Ka’an 124-5Uxmal 160-3, 161, 23,

37, 39

XXcacel-Xcacelito 111-12Xcalak 131-2Xcambó 180Xcaret 101Xel-Há 101X’Kekén (cenote) 9, 167,

192-3, 2, 9, 166-7Xplor 101Xpu-Há 110Xpujil 225

YYaxchilán 246, 247-8yoga classes 72, 82, 234,

235Yucatán state 52,

142-200, 144-5accommodations 142festivals & events 142food 142highlights 144-5, 144-5travel seasons 142

Yucatec Maya 306

ZZacil-Ha 121zip-lining 99, 101, 105, 121,

123, 124, 196, 222Zoh-Laguna 226Zona Hotelera 61, 64-6, 66zoos, see also wildlife

reservesCrococun Zoo 65Parque-Museo La

Venta 239Parque Zoológico del

Centenario 146


317N

OTES

318

NO

TES

Send your ‘Lonely Planet in the Wild’ photos to [email protected] We share the best on our Facebook page every week!

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LONELY PLANET WILDIN THE

319

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway/Subte stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book


Map Legend

Published by Lonely Planet Global LtdCRN 5541537th edition – September 2016ISBN 978 1 78657 017 8© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Dublin, Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSJohn HechtCancún & Around, Isla Mujeres, Isla Cozumel, Riviera Maya, Costa Maya & the Southern Caribbean, Yucatán State & the Maya Heartland John has spent more than 20 years living in Mexico, during which time he has contributed to numer-ous editions of the Lonely Planet Mexico book. He was coordinating author on the previous edition of LP’s Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán and he produced a series of short videos shot in the Yucatán region for Lonely Planet TV. He lives in

Mexico City with his Mexican wife. Mom’s still waiting for him to return to the good ole’ USA. John also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand (except Yucatecan Cuisine), and Survival Guide chapters.

Lucas VidgenCampeche, Chiapas Lucas first visited Mexico back in 2002, breezing through the Yucatán long enough to be captivated by the lush scenery and irresistible food. Later he moved to Guatemala, which served as a good base for exploring Chiapas and the rest of the Mundo Maya. Lucas has contributed to a variety of Lonely Planet titles, mostly in Central and South America. Back home he publishes – and very occasionally works on – Quetzaltenango’s leading nightlife

magazine, XelaWho (www.xelawho.com).

Contributing WriterMauricio Velázquez de León was born in Mexico City, where he was given boiled chicken feet and toasted corn tortillas to sooth his teething pains. He is the author of My Foodie ABC: A Little Gourmet’s Guide (Duo Press, 2010) and lives in Maryland with his wife and twin sons, whose teething pains were soothed with toasted corn tortillas. Mauricio wrote the Yucatecan Cuisine chapter in this book.



© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

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