book for men fall / winter 2011

36
FALL · WINTER · 2011 The STYLE·ACCESSORIES·AUTOMOBILES·TRAVEL WATCHES·SUITS·TRENDS·ADVICE COMPLETE STYLE MANUAL INSIDE

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The essential guide for the modern man.

TRANSCRIPT

FA L L · W I N T E R · 2 0 1 1

The

S T Y L E · A C C E S S O R I E S · AU T O M O B I L E S · T R AV E LWAT C H E S · S U I T S · T R E N D S · A DV I C E

COMPLETESTYLE

MANUALINSIDE

COVER-BFM.indd 1 11-08-24 1:43 PM

036

038

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090—099

114—121

124—133

156—163

F A S H I O N F E A T U R E S

MEAN STREETSThe dark side of urbanity

THE DECADE OF MENSix icons of the 1970s

FORT TILDENMan is an island

WHISTLERPower and powder: the perfect combination

F R O N T O F B O O K

FOREWORDBespoke or bust

LETTER FROM THE EDITORMake it new

RETURN OF THE PREPPIESA classic style for the aspiring gentleman

THE CLASSIC ICONOCLASTBarker Black creates traditional footwear

with a rock ’n’ roll sensibility

job number:

date:

client:

advertiser:

please contact thelab at 212-209-1333 with any questions or concerns regarding these materials.

dtp: color: cs: acct: client:

50392_A1_C1-4

08/19/11

LOU

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CONTENTSF A L L / W I N T E R ! " # #

T h e BOOK F o r MEN

T H E B O O K F O R M E N

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F R O N T O F B O O K

INSPIRED BY USVancouver-based Wings + Horns defines

Canadian fashion

THE JACKET, DECONSTRUCTEDExploring the layered anatomy of your suit

TEQUILA’S RENAISSANCEPremium agave is catching on

A PASSIVE ADVENTURELose yourself on a catamaran cruise

E S S E N T I A L S

THE ONE THINGEVERY MAN MUST HAVEThe man safe

THE 10 FOR MENTen trends that will endure the test of time

FRAGRANCESNever underestimate the power of the perfect scent

SHOES & BELTSEvery great outfit requires a solid foundation

CONTENTSF A L L / W I N T E R ! " # #

T h e BOOK F o r MEN

54—55

56—75

76—81

82—87

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T H E B O O K F O R M E N

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R7

Ad Number: MBZ_CRC_P07583SH4Publication(s): Sharp - The Book for MenThis ad prepared by: SGL Communications 2 Bloor St. West, Toronto, Ontario phone 416.413.7495 fax 416.944.7883 File Location: SGL_MercedesBenzCanada:Volumes:SGL_MercedesBenzCanada:Magazine Ads:O16133_MY12 S-Class:MBZ_CRC_P07583SH4.indd

JOB SPECIFICS

Client: Mercedes-BenzCreative Name: MY12 S-Class ENGAgency Docket #: MBZ COR O16133Main Docket #: SMZ COR O16133Art Director: Paul WiersmaCopy Writer: NonePrint Production: Tom BurtonRetoucher: NoneLive: 8.5” x 10.375”Trim: 9” x 10.875”Bleed: 9.25” x 11.125”Artwork Scale: 1:1Print Scale: 100%

FILE SPECIFICATIONS:

File Name: MBZ_CRC_P07583SH4.inddCreation Date: 8-19-2011 3:46 PMLast Modified: 8-24-2011 9:23 AMWorkstation: T11-0078InDesign Version: CS4 App. Version: 6.0.6Round #: 1 Page Count: 1GRAPHIC PRODUCTION:

Operator: Evan DermitCorrection: None

SIGNOFFS:

Creative:

Production:

Premedia:

Proofreading:

Account:

Client:

PREMEDIA OPERATOR:

Operator: RJ

INKS:

Cyan

MAGENTA

YELLOW

BLACK

FONTS & PLACED IMAGES

Family Style

Corporate S DemiCorporate A Regular, Bold

File Name Colour Space Eff. Res (PPI)

MBZ_Skyline_Removed.eps CMYK 577 ppiMB-a_claim1EN_M_n_4C.eps125_EN_n_baseline2_1C.eps

This proof was produced by the following department:

PREPRESS

© 2011 Mercedes-Benz Canada Inc.

Ecoluxury. When something doesn’t exist, you invent it.Leaders know how to make a change. The all-new S-Class provides unmatched eco-friendly luxury. Whether it’s the new S 350 BlueTEC with the only diesel in its class or the fi rst Lithium Ion Hybrid production sedan, you’ll be a leader. Or choose our powerful new V8, with even more horsepower and 20% greater fuel economy. Either way, you will become an Eco CEO.

Visit mercedes-benz.ca

S:8.5”

S:10.375”

T:9”

T:10.875”

B:9.25”

B:11.125”

CONTENTSF A L L / W I N T E R ! " # #

T h e BOOK F o r MEN

E S S E N T I A L S

POCKET-SIZED LUXURYPint-sized pieces to complete your style

LAYERSAssemble a warm ensemble with

these winter pieces

ELECTRONICSSpice up your tech game with these gadgets

T I M E P I E C E S

DAY TIMERSEvery man needs an iconic, accessible

and reliable timepiece

MEN IN BLACK...AND REDThe hottest watch trend of the moment?

We’ve got three words for you: black and red

ULTIMATE TIMEFour superwatches that will blow your mind

134—139

140—141

142—149

100—107

108—113

150—155

T H E B O O K F O R M E N

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9x10.875 JPG LeMale Eng Ad_Sharp Men.indd 1 11-08-25 5:08 PM

179–242

195–226

MANual

STYLE MANUAL

Our 32-page MANual is !lled with tips for men—from embracing grey hair and !nding the perfect scent, to landing a plane and crafting a Samurai sword.

The Style MANual tells you what to look for in men's fashion and how to make it work for you. Because everyone needs sartorial assistance from time to time.

A U T O M O B I L E S

2012 LAMBORGHINI AVENTADOR LP 700-4The raging bull from Sant'Agata Bolognese

unveils the new supercar reference point

2012 BMW 650I CABRIOLETThe drop-top, drop-dead gorgeous

Grand Tourer is back

2012 PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS 4.0The 997 generation goes out with a bang

T R A V E L

NAMIBIA ON SPEEDAfrica is full of surprises, and there’s no better

way to see them all than on a blazing fast bike

164—167

168—169

170—171

172—177

CONTENTSF A L L / W I N T E R ! " # #

T h e BOOK F o r MEN

T H E B O O K F O R M E N

32

“Safety first,” that’s what your parents always told you. As a kid, you undoubtedly dismissed those words—if something was safe, it couldn’t possibly be worthwhile, right? But as you’ve grown, that little nugget

has started to make more and more sense. You’ve worked hard and rewarded yourself with a collection of expensive items—not to mention the sentimental value—and you want to protect those things. This swanky vault will keep your watches, wallets, cufflinks and trinkets out of harm’s way. Safety never looked so sexy.

The Man Safe from Cali fornia -based Brown Safe includes e ight watch winders and three interior drawers, sports a high gloss

exterior and ultrasuede interior with Macassar ebony tr im. It is equipped with a !- inch sol id steel door with "- inch steel body, f lush

pry -resistant door, sol id steel 1- inch locking bolts with anti-drive resistance, f ive independent active and passive relocking devices,

hardened steel bal l-bearing hardplate and a 1- inch laminated, interlocked and double-welded door jamb. $9,475

P H O T O G R A P H B Y C A R L Y L E R O U T H

A SAFE

T H I N G E V E R Y M A N M U S T H A V E :

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T H E O N E

T H E

1T H E B O O K F O R M E N

54

“Safety first,” that’s what your parents always told you. As a kid, you undoubtedly dismissed those words—if something was safe, it couldn’t possibly be worthwhile, right? But as you’ve grown, that little nugget

has started to make more and more sense. You’ve worked hard and rewarded yourself with a collection of expensive items—not to mention the sentimental value—and you want to protect those things. This swanky vault will keep your watches, wallets, cufflinks and trinkets out of harm’s way. Safety never looked so sexy.

The Man Safe from Cali fornia -based Brown Safe includes e ight watch winders and three interior drawers, sports a high gloss

exterior and ultrasuede interior with Macassar ebony tr im. It is equipped with a !- inch sol id steel door with "- inch steel body, f lush

pr y -resistant door, sol id steel 1- inch locking bolts with anti-drive resistance, f ive independent active and passive relocking devices,

hardened steel bal l-bearing hardplate and a 1- inch laminated, interlocked and double-welded door jamb. $9,475

P H O T O G R A P H B Y C A R L Y L E R O U T H

A SAFE

T H I N G E V E R Y M A N M U S T H A V E :

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T H E T E N T H E T E N

10T H E

F O R

MENWhat is the difference between a trend and a fad? Both terms imply a fresh perspective

(or, sometimes, the reinvention of an old practice), but whereas a fad tends to flame out almost as quickly as it appears, a trend grows, gaining strength and followers until it becomes a mainstay in our collective consciousness.

The Top 10 for Men is concerned with trends—ideas, technologies and style movements that make us see and think in ways we hadn’t before. Whether it’s a biometrically enhanced wallet, an automobile that sets the

benchmark for green luxury and performance or a watch that does what no other timepiece can, we’re fascinated by new ideas that others will follow in years to come. These 10 trends will endure the test of time.

MECHANICAL REVOLUTION I N N O V A T I V E T I M E P I E C E S A R E S H A K I N G U P T H E E S T A B L I S H M E N T

1

V irtually everything we manufacture is driven by computers that control high-performance machinery. The human touch has been lost, except when it comes to premium timepieces. The primary tools of watchmakers remain their finely tuned hands, eyes and minds—there are no motherboards, online connections or native applications to streamline the process.

The trick, of course, is to continuously improve mechanics to move the art form forward, and this piece by Christophe Claret is a prime example of how it's done: it lets you play 21 on the dial, roulette on the caseback or craps with three 1.5 mm dice visible through the case side—all produced mechanically. It's classic and revolutionary at the same time. $ 2 3 0 , 5 0 0

F A L L 2 0 1 1 T R E N D S F O R B E T T E R L I V I N G

T H E B O O K F O R M E N

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T H E B O O K F O R M E N

57

A cologne classic, Da-

vidoff Cool Water is per-

fectly crisp for the fall.

With notes of iced tea and

mint, musk and incense,

it’s subtly pleasing and

easily transitions from

day to night. It’s a scent

that evokes tradition and

effortless elegance. ($65)

FRAGRANCESN E V E R U N D E R E S T I M A T E T H E P O W E R O F T H E P E R F E C T S C E N T

W O R D S B Y S A D A F A H S A N

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y A D R I A N A R M S T R O N G

Finding your signature scent is essential: it’s one of the !rst things people notice about you, and it speaks to your innate essence. Who you are, where you’re going, what you like and dislike—it’s all

there in that !rst whi". Each of these !ve fragrances embodies a unique character, a philosophy of life to wear and embrace.

T H E P E R F E C T S C E N T

T H E B O O K F O R M E N

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F I G . 1

SHOES & BELTSE V E R Y G R E A T O U T F I T R E Q U I R E S A S O L I D F O U N D A T I O N

W O R D S B Y D E R E K D O T T O

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y A D R I A N A R M S T R O N G

Some fashion rules come and go, but here’s one that remains as relevant as ever: Your shoes and your belt should always match. It doesn’t matter whether you're dressing up or down, your shoes and belt must

always be synchronized. Why? Because they’re your style anchors, the cornerstones of any out!t. Do yourself a favour this fall and think of footwear and waist-wear as a package deal.

A S O L I D F O U N D A T I O N

F I G . 1

A fashion rule you can ignore is the one that bans white after Labour Day —white works al l year i f you

do i t r ight . A contrasting tread can l ighten the load of a dark shoe and give your fal l wardrobe the playful

edge i t may be lacking. And a distressed leather belt furthers the street-smart vibe without steal ing the

spotl ight . (Shoes: Lacoste, $170; Belt : BOSS Orange, $135)

T H E B O O K F O R M E N

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The infusion of bright orange in this jacket adds an element of playfulness to a c lassic casual design and a reversible scarf gives

you options. Colourful knit g loves emphasize that you’re out for fun and there ’s no better way to keep your cranium warm than a

cashmere toque. (Jacket : Diesel , $385; Hat: Ermenegi ldo Zegna, $185; Scarf : Scotch & Soda, $69; Gloves: Ben Sherman, $48)

F I G . 1

LAYERSA S S E M B L E A W A R M E N S E M B L E W I T H T H E S E W I N T E R P I E C E S

W O R D S B Y L A N C E C H U N G

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y A D R I A N A R M S T R O N G

Layering is about creating a cohesive image consisting of singular pieces, each with its own, speci!c role, contributing to an overall look. A bright scarf peeking out from underneath the con!nes of your winter

coat, a smart cap and a stylish set of gloves—put them all together and you have this season’s coolest looks.

L A Y E R S

T H E B O O K F O R M E N

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ULTIMATE TIMET H E S E F O U R W A T C H E S A R E A B O U T M U C H M O R E T H A N K E E P I N G T I M E .

T H E Y R E P R E S E N T A R T I N I T S H I G H E S T , M O S T T E C H N I C A L , F O R M

W O R D S B Y C A R O L B E S L E R

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y M I C H A E L D A V I D A D A M S

I t is no overstatement to suggest that what you are about to view is one of the greatest collections of superwatches ever

assembled for a single photo shoot. Gathering these timepieces in the same room was the equivalent of a sports lover being invited to kick back with Roger Federer, Tiger Woods, Michael Schumacher and Tom Brady. All of these watches possess the qualities of a top athlete: endurance, power and great engineering.

The movement of the Harry Winston Opus Eleven ( F I G . 1 & 2 ) took 14,400 hours to engineer—“And that,” comments brand CEO Frederic de Narp, “is the essence of extreme luxury.” It works by deconstructing and then reassembling time every hour: 24 placards revolve and rotate on a complex system of gears that work in unison to reformulate the time. Minutes are shown on a double-disk system that, like the balance wheel, protrudes from the case side in its own orbit. $ 2 2 9 , 0 0 0

Aesthetically speaking, the Urwerk 110 Torpedo ( F I G . 3 ) is strongly influenced by the German U-boat. A planetary gearing system activates three “torpedo” satellites that synchronize to manoeuvre the 3D angles of a multi-level dial to indicate the time. The case is titanium, and the dial features a seconds subdial

and an “oil change” indicator, reminding the wearer when it’s time for servicing. $ 8 7 , 0 0 0

The MB&F HM2’s ( F I G . 4 ) front plate is made of a single massive sapphire crystal that takes 55 hours to carve. A green gasket separates it from the caseback, made of black PVD-coated titanium, and a 22k gold rotor on the back is green PVD-coated to match. The movement, by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht using a Girard-Perregaux base, is the world’s first to offer instantaneous jumping hour, concentric retrograde minutes, retrograde date, bi-hemisphere moon phase and automatic winding. It is a masterpiece of high-tech simplicity that makes us wonder why we ever told time in the conventional way. $ 1 1 0 , 0 0 0

The concept behind the Hublot Key of Time ( F I G . 5 ) is simple, and wonderfully arrogant: it allows the wearer to master time. The movement incorporates a mechanism that can either accelerate or suspend time at the push of a button—the idea being that happy moments are suspended, and unhappy moments can be curtailed. It’s an illusion, of course (another button returns the hands to real time), but when you’re wearing a superwatch, it seems fitting that you should assume superhuman powers, too. $ 2 6 0 , 0 0 0

T I M E P I E C E S

T H E B O O K F O R M E N

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F I G . 2F I G . 2F I G . 2

F I G . 2F I G . 2F I G . 2

WHISTLERP O W E R A N D P O W D E R : T H E P E R F E C T C O M B I N A T I O N

F A S H I O N D I R E C T I O N B Y L U K E L A N G S D A L E ; P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y V I N C E N T L I O N S

Whistler Blackcomb in British Columbia is one of the world’s most famed ski destinations. Hit the slopes during the day and, once the sun goes down, head back to the luxurious lodge to warm up.

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2012 LAMBORGHINI AVENTADOR LP 700-4

T H E N E W S U P E R C A R R E F E R E N C E P O I N T

W O R D S B Y B R A D L E Y H O R N

I t’s difficult to encapsulate exactly how emphatically the Italian populace adores Lamborghini until you’ve stormed

through Rome in a vehicle wearing the badge of the bull from Sant’Agata Bolognese—even if the symbol is simply emblazoned on a tour bus full of foreign scribes. It’s enough to stop people in their tracks: There was none of the capital’s notorious blaring of horns, expletives hurled out windows or arms gesturing manically. The raging bull commands respect.

We were on the way to Vallelunga raceway, north of Rome, to experience Lamborghini’s new flagship model, the Aventador, from the hot seat. Named, as per tradition, after a par-ticularly courageous fighting bull of the Span-ish Corrida, this is only the seventh V12 model the company has launched since Ferruccio Lamborghini set up shop in 1963.

Aventador is no mere evolution of the Mur-ciélago it replaces, but an entirely new beast. It is the world’s first road-going production car with a complete carbon-fibre monocoque pas-senger cell, 30 percent lighter and 15 percent

stiffer than the old flagship’s structure. Bolt on the front and rear aluminum subframes and a naked Aventador weighs just 506 lb.

This Lambo is manic about maximizing power-to-weight and targeted to carve corners as brilliantly as any creation from arch-nemesis Ferrari. Designer Filippo Perini started his career as a mechanical engineer before trading calculator for pencil—his work is visually strik-ing and keeps the eggheads in aerodynamics happy. Note the flourishes like the barely one-metre height, the carbon-fibre rear spoiler that deploys at speed, the massive, single, hexagonal exhaust pipe and, of course, those signature scissor doors.

Which brings us to the heart of this bull: the new mid-mounted 6.5-litre V12. It’s light-er, sits lower and revs higher than the mill in the Murciélago. Visible under the transparent engine cover, the dry sump engine makes 700 horsepower at an exosphere-high 8,250 rpm and 509 lb-ft of torque over a curve as flat as Italian marble. The engine’s 20 percent more efficient, too. »

A U T O M O B I L E S

T H E B O O K F O R M E N

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T H E B O O K F O R M E N

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FRANCIS KURKDJIAN

5 Scents to Get You Through the Winter

TOM FORD GREY VETIVER

This is the fragrance for those looking to exude power. Including vetiver, the concoc-tion holds notes of grapefruit, orange flower, sage, nutmeg, orris, pimiento, amber woods and oak moss. Ford himself puts it best: “It’s the fra-grance equivalent of the clas-sic blue blazer, the beautiful watch or the cap-toed shoe.” We couldn’t agree more. ($85/50 ml)

If there’s one thing you should remember this winter, it’s to switch out your summer scents for some classic and fresh whiffs of clear and crisp cologne. Be sure to look for longevity and strength in your seasonal fragrance to power

through the winter weather. Count on timeless winter smells, including pa-tchouli, sandalwood and spice, to name a few. Here are some of our favourite fall and winter scents.

RALPH LAUREN POLO BLUE

This pleasant aquatic blend evokes a crispy scent, the culmination of spicy basil, lush watery melon, cucum-ber, tangerine and clary sage absolute. Other notes include moss, suede, amber wood and patchouli, produc-ing a cool fragrance with a slight hint of musk. A fresh, subtle scent, Polo Blue is long lasting and classic. ($60/125 ml) SA

NEW HAARLEM BY BOND NO. 9

If the smell of roasting coffee beans gets you excited, Bond No. 9’s New Haarlem may just be your blend. A mix of bergamot, cedarwood, coffee, vanilla, patchouli and lavender, the lush scent is decidedly masculine. New Haarlem’s patchouli notes add a woody, dark layer, while the fresh lavender softens it, leaving a surprising subtle smell. ($150/100 ml)

FAHRENHEIT BY DIOR

This nearly 20-year-old fragrance is a no-brainer for the winter weather. One of the more rich and distinctive scents around, Fahrenheit carries top-notes of bergamot, lemon, orange and lavender, with sandalwood, leather, amber, musk and a hint of pa-tchouli and vetiver. Considered a woody floral musk, it's one of the sexiest scents out there. ($38/30 ml)

GUCCI BY GUCCI POUR HOMME

Gucci Pour Homme is modern and masculine. The notes include bergamot, cypress, vio-let incense, tobacco, jasmine, patchouli, amber and elemi for an intensely dark mix. The brand echoes a modern elegance, and the touch of tobacco heightens its edge. Simultaneously woody, warm and sweet, this one is for the distinguished few. ($68/50 ml)

Book for Men: When creating a fragrance, where do you draw inspiration from?Francis Kurkdjian: It all depends on my mood really. I have many sources of inspiration from music to ballet to literature—a single word can be very inspiring. BFM: What was it like to work directly with Jean Paul Gaultier on Le Male?FK: There were two main concepts that we wanted in the fragrance. The first was a tribute to the old barbershops—a very chic and elegant old style. Yet, Mr. Gaultier also wanted something edible in the sense that you felt like you could eat the scent off a man's skin, not in the sense of something chocolaty or sweet or food-like, but just the idea that a woman is so excited to be with her man that she wants to eat him. She wants to put her nose in his neck. BFM: When creating a new fragrance, do you envision a specific man or woman that embodies the scent?FK: You have to really focus on the designer you work for. If I'm not invited to the fashion shows, I try to get videotapes, watch interviews. I always say that when you create for someone else, you have to be like an actor. You have to play a script that is not written by you. You have to find a precise fit and common language so that when you create the fragrance you are in their environment.

BFM: How precise are perfume formulas? Is there a big difference if you make a small change in a recipe, like adding or taking out a drop of one ingredient?FK: The drop might change the story. It's like a cooking recipe. Think about the proportions of an apple tart: if you add too much sugar, you will ruin the recipe. Basi-cally, it's not because you're adding or taking away a small amount, it's more about the impact of that product within the formula that makes the difference. It can tell you a different story, because the concept and balance are the most important aspects of perfume. BFM: What are the fundamental differences between male and female scents? FK: The technique is the same, and the rigour is the same, but it's more about the combination of things you put together. It's not about using or not using ma-terials. It's like the colours of fashion: men can wear pink, but you may not see as much pink on men as you see on women.BFM: What trends do you currently see in fragrances?FK: I don't really believe in trends, I dislike them. I think if you try to think of a trend, it means that it is already out in the market. If you want to be ahead of the trend, you better not look at what's happening. You do things on your own. LC

Cold Weather Menus.....183

Well-Stocked Kitchen......184

Winter Drinks................184

Wine for Beginners........185

The Ideal Cellar.............185

Absinthe.........................186

How To Sabre a Champagne bottle.........186

TOO CHILL FOR THE GRILL:

Electric indoor grills are a good alternative when the weather’s too nasty for outdoor cooking. But we prefer a simple cast iron grill pan that goes on top of the stove. These work best with meat cooked no more than medium, so they’ll char the surface without burning it. Add a dash of liquid smoke (available at grocery stores) in the mari-nade to give some charcoal flavouring. Try lamb chops heavy with garlic or a whole trout with smoked salt sprinkled on the inside.

Broiling works well with meats that need a little more cooking throughout, such as chicken, because you can start the food on regular oven heat and then finish it close to the top element. Just before you turn on the broiler, put some vegetable kebabs alongside so they’ll cook and develop a nice char on the edges. JM

Cold Weather Menus FOR A DINNER PARTY:

Meat wrapped in pastry is an impressive main dish. Beef Wellington might have become cliché years ago but it’s ready for a return, especially as part of a great retro menu that starts with a pre-dinner pitch-er of martinis and ends with a chocolate soufflé.

Thaw a package of frozen puff pastry. Preheat the oven to 425 F and trim all fat off two beef fillets, about 4 to 5 pounds each. Roast on a rack for 15 min-utes, then cool. Finely chop a pound of mushrooms and sauté in a couple of tablespoons of butter. Season with thyme, salt, pepper and a splash of sherry and cook until all of the liquid evaporates.

Roll puff pastry into two squares. Spread half the mushroom mixture on each, lay a fillet on top and wrap it up, sealing completely. Brush with melted butter or a beaten egg and bake at 375 F for 20 minutes, then turn up to 450 F for 5 to 10 minutes to brown the pastry.

QUICK AND EASY:

The best recipes are those that can be adapted to whatever ingredients you have on hand. We love a Southern specialty called Shrimp & Grits: it’s made with a sauce of chopped vegetables and tomatoes, but if you don’t have the time (or patience), use a jar of salsa instead.

Add half a cup of grits (coarsely ground white corn meal) to two cups boiling water. Reduce the heat and simmer until thick, about 15 minutes. If you can’t find grits, use polenta, or rice or pasta (see what we mean about adapting?).

Meanwhile, sauté a pound of fresh shrimp, add the salsa, heat thoroughly and serve over the grits. No shrimp? Brown some beef strips and add the salsa for a version of the New Orleans dish Grits & Grillades (pronounced “gree-yawds”). Chicken or pork work, too.

We sat down with the man behind Jean Paul Gaultier’s Le Male

fragrance, the most commercially successful male scent on the market, to learn about the art of perfuming.

( T H E " N O S E " O F G A U LT I E R )

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In the old days, all a man had to think about when picking out his new TV set was which wood finish would go best with the den carpet. These days, things are a touch more complicated: competing technologies and factors like screen size, true black performance and, of course, the vaunted third dimension, can be tough to wrap your head around. Not to worry, we’ve got the lowdown on which sets do what best.

H O W T O FIND THE RIGHT TV

TV TECH GRUDGE MATCHUnless you’ve got a fondness for functional bulb-filled antiques, your TV-buying decision basically boils down to two technologies:

LCD vs. plasma. Let’s compare the two:

Size:

Picture Quality:

Performance:

Viewability:

Glare:

Burn:

LCDs have proven more popular in the last few years because they are available in virtually any screen size (they're also much thinner).

Plasmas rarely come smaller than 42 inches due to inherently higher manufac-turing costs.

LCDs—especially if they’re LED-backlit—have the edge in brightness. Plasmas have much deeper black levels, and, arguably, better colour “pop.”

Plasmas are superior when it comes to processing quick-moving images. LCDs experience slight distortions known as motion blur and juddering.

With an LCD set, the further away from centre-angle you move, the worse the picture becomes.

Plasmas, on the other hand, offer a more or less uniform viewability regardless of where you’re sitting.

Plasmas need to be away from ambient light, limiting where you can put them. Most LCDs are fitted with matte screens, so they perform better in a bright room.

Plasmas are susceptible to "burn-in," although, in most cases, the effect is only temporary.

LCDs don't experience "burn-in"—a predicament where still images can leave behind a blotchy imprint on the screen.

What does all this mean? Well, for a primary home theatre—we’re talking a dark room dedicated to movie-watching—plasma is king. However, if you’re looking for something more efficient, with a bit more versatility in terms of both size and placement options, LCD is a good bet. Our best advice is that you see both in action before making a decision. MC

LCD PLASMAvs.

STYLE GUIDE

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S I N G L E !B R E A S T E D V S . D O U B L E !B R E A S T E D

The double-breasted jacket was a staple of formal menswear in the 1980s—the power shoulders and wide, boxy cuts were as much a symbol of the era as leg warmers and the jheri curl. Now, it’s back in style, with a more fitted, tailored sillouhette. The single-breasted jacket will forever remain a staple in the modern man's wardrobe. It’s simple yet elegant,

and can be worn in any number of ways—during the day, it’s a power suit, and at night, replace the pants with comfortable jeans for a cool, casual

ensemble look. We prefer a two-button jacket for a slimming look.

A well-tailored suit is essential for any man of style. It signifies power and prestige, and makes you look and feel masculine. To cover all occasions and circumstances, you need to own these three suits:

1 CLASSIC BLUE - This is the staple of your wardrobe. Navy blue suits can be worn as casual or formal, and are appro-priate for all times of the year. Pair with chocolate brown or deep black shoes.

2 THREE-PIECE - It’s all about options. This isn’t your dad’s stuffy suit—a three-piece number is ideal for formal settings and, when you take off your jacket, you’ve got a smart semi-casual look to boot.

3 DOUBLE-BREASTED - When you want to leave a big impression, this one’s the way to go. We love the updated fit of the new double—slimmer, less stuffy and undeniably modern.

1

2 3

3 M U S T!H AV E S U I T S

MANu a l – 1 9 91 9 8 –MAN u a l

S I N G L E !B R E A S T E D V S . D O U B L E !B R E A S T E D

The double-breasted jacket was a staple of formal menswear in the 1980s—the power shoulders and wide, boxy cuts were as much a symbol of the era as leg warmers and the jheri curl. Now, it’s back in style, with a more fitted, tailored sillouhette. The single-breasted jacket will forever remain a staple in the modern man's wardrobe. It’s simple yet elegant,

and can be worn in any number of ways—during the day, it’s a power suit, and at night, replace the pants with comfortable jeans for a cool, casual

ensemble look. We prefer a two-button jacket for a slimming look.

A well-tailored suit is essential for any man of style. It signifies power and prestige, and makes you look and feel masculine. To cover all occasions and circumstances, you need to own these three suits:

1 CLASSIC BLUE - This is the staple of your wardrobe. Navy blue suits can be worn as casual or formal, and are appro-priate for all times of the year. Pair with chocolate brown or deep black shoes.

2 THREE-PIECE - It’s all about options. This isn’t your dad’s stuffy suit—a three-piece number is ideal for formal settings and, when you take off your jacket, you’ve got a smart semi-casual look to boot.

3 DOUBLE-BREASTED - When you want to leave a big impression, this one’s the way to go. We love the updated fit of the new double—slimmer, less stuffy and undeniably modern.

1

2 3

3 M U S T!H AV E S U I T S

MANu a l – 1 9 91 9 8 –MAN u a l

H O W T O C A R E F O R A S U I T

So, you’ve bought an expensive new suit. Congratulations—it looks great. Consider it an investment: if you want that suit to last, you need to take good care of it. Here are a few tips:

1 Your hangers should boast enough support in the shoulders to properly hold up your suit. Think of the hanger as a replacement set of shoulders for when you're not wearing your suit.

2 Always use a garment bag when traveling. A canvas garment bag is ideal because it affords proper air circulation.

3 Most importantly, find yourself a good dry cleaner. Ask your tailor for a recommendation and don’t be afraid to shell out a couple extra bucks—a good dry cleaner will help preserve your suit, saving you money in the long run.

1 PINSTRIPE - A thin pinstripe adds a touch of elegance, and it’ll make you look slimmer and taller (never a bad thing). A thicker stripe can be a bit tricky, but if you exude confidence, it can work well.

2 MONOCHROME - No frills, no tricks—there’s strength in subtlety. And monochrome leaves you with plenty of options: add a matching tie for a sleek ensemble, or splashes of colour to make it pop.

3 CHECK - A little more pronounced than monochrome, a little less bold than pinstripes—the check falls into that comfortable middle ground. Dress it up or down, either way you’re guaran-teed a refined, smart look.

While the fashion industry has turned out a wide variety of lapel styles, there are three standard iterations: peak, notched and shawl.

PEAKA bold and old-school lapel, tradi-tionally worn on double-breasted jackets and formal coats, such as

the morning coat.

NOTCHEDThe notched lapel is the standard for

most suits, though the “notch” can vary widely in style and size. When in doubt,

go with this one—it’s a classic.

SHAWLThe shawl collar employs a continuous curve. It’s decidedly more sophisticat-ed, with a softer air to it, suitable for more formal affairs (think tuxedo).

L A P E L P R I M E R

3 M U S T!H AV E S U I T PAT T E R N S

MANu a l – 2 0 12 0 0 –MANu a l

H O W T O C A R E F O R A S U I T

So, you’ve bought an expensive new suit. Congratulations—it looks great. Consider it an investment: if you want that suit to last, you need to take good care of it. Here are a few tips:

1 Your hangers should boast enough support in the shoulders to properly hold up your suit. Think of the hanger as a replacement set of shoulders for when you're not wearing your suit.

2 Always use a garment bag when traveling. A canvas garment bag is ideal because it affords proper air circulation.

3 Most importantly, find yourself a good dry cleaner. Ask your tailor for a recommendation and don’t be afraid to shell out a couple extra bucks—a good dry cleaner will help preserve your suit, saving you money in the long run.

1 PINSTRIPE - A thin pinstripe adds a touch of elegance, and it’ll make you look slimmer and taller (never a bad thing). A thicker stripe can be a bit tricky, but if you exude confidence, it can work well.

2 MONOCHROME - No frills, no tricks—there’s strength in subtlety. And monochrome leaves you with plenty of options: add a matching tie for a sleek ensemble, or splashes of colour to make it pop.

3 CHECK - A little more pronounced than monochrome, a little less bold than pinstripes—the check falls into that comfortable middle ground. Dress it up or down, either way you’re guaran-teed a refined, smart look.

While the fashion industry has turned out a wide variety of lapel styles, there are three standard iterations: peak, notched and shawl.

PEAKA bold and old-school lapel, tradi-tionally worn on double-breasted jackets and formal coats, such as

the morning coat.

NOTCHEDThe notched lapel is the standard for

most suits, though the “notch” can vary widely in style and size. When in doubt,

go with this one—it’s a classic.

SHAWLThe shawl collar employs a continuous curve. It’s decidedly more sophisticat-ed, with a softer air to it, suitable for more formal affairs (think tuxedo).

L A P E L P R I M E R

3 M U S T!H AV E S U I T PAT T E R N S

MANu a l – 2 0 12 0 0 –MANu a l

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A V A I L A B L E N O W A T S H A R P F O R M E N . C O M

O N L Y $ 1 6 . 9 5

2 4 6 P A G E S

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