www.fribourgregion.ch

Estavayer-le-LacMedieval town

www.estavayer-payerne.ch

Self-guided QR-code tourEnglish version

Estavayer-le-Lac

Once a thriving port, Estavayer-le-Lac today is a popular tourist resort thanks to its fantastic location on the southern shores of Lake Neuchâ-tel and right in the heart of the Grande Cariçaie nature reserve. With its temperate climate and beautiful beaches, the “City of Roses” attracts visitors from far and wide, particularly in the summer months. But its stunning medieval architecture, winding cobbled streets, covered car-riage entrances and fountains are admired and enjoyed all year round. If you long to visit a destination that is authentic, scenic and steeped in history, then Estavayer-le-Lac is the place for you.

Tours and visitor trails

There are lots of ways to make the most of your visit to Estavayer-le-Lac. You could opt for a self-guided QR code tour, or take a leisurely stroll around the medieval city walls. Alternatively, you could hop on board the mini-train or explore the town with the help of an experienced guide. For more information and brochures, head to the tourist office.

QR codes

There are a total of 16 interpretive panels dotted around the town, each with a QR code. Simply scan the code using your smartphone to listen to the audio commentary for additional insights into Estavayer’s fascinating history. Enjoy your visit to Estavayer-le-Lac!

To be able to scan the QR codes from your mobile phone, you first need to download a QR code reader. There are several free iPhone and Android applications available.

Welcome

Prehistoric settlement

Humans have inhabited the site of present-day Estavayer-le-Lac since Mesolithic times (8000-5500 BC), as confirmed by the remains of a dug-out canoe found under the château de Chenaux. By the late Bronze Age (1000-900 BC), a large village had colonised the lakeshore. The first correction of the Jura waters in 1879 uncovered the remnants of hundreds of pile dwellings that would have dotted this earlier settlement.

Throughout history, the popularity of these shores fluctuated with the lake’s water levels. In Roman times, for example, the population was forced to move to higher ground due to rising water levels. While few artefacts have been found within the confines of the medieval town, vestiges of human occupation dating from the first Iron Age and the Roman era have been unearthed along the Motte-Châtel esplanade.

Estavayer - a tale of three castles

The history of Estavayer is intertwined with that of its three seigneuries. Originally the dominion of three branches of the Estavayer family, the ter-ritory was occupied by the Royal House of Savoy, and later the city of Fri-bourg which turned the town into the centre of one of its bailiwicks. As a result, the town boasted three castles of which only one, the château de Chenaux, survives.

Given that there is no written record of Estavayer before 1000 AD, the origins of the medieval city remain shrouded in mystery. However, the fact that the town’s church is dedicated to Saint Lawrence, a martyr revered in

History

2 3

Self-guided QR-code tour.16 panels near historic siteswith audio commentaries

the early Middle Ages, would suggest that Estavayer had been a place of Christian worship since the end of the Roman era.

The earliest historical reference to an autonomous seigneury dates to the 12th century, with mention of Renaud, Lord of Estavayer, and his son, Conon. The Estavayer dynasty elected to build their fortress on the top of a rocky outcrop, known as “Motte-Châtel”, not far from the church. This was an excellent stra-tegic location as the sugarloaf-shaped cliff was virtually unassailable.

Following the death of their father, Conon, brothers William and Renaud II shared feudal rights over the territory until 1240. While sovereignty over the surrounding villages was clearly assigned to one or the other, the town of Estavayer was their joint fiefdom. One generation later, Renaud’s de-scendants had split into a third branch. The three co-seigneurs decided that the ever-growing town could be better defended if each lord had his own family seat .

By the end of the 13th century, Estavayer had three castles: Motte-Châtel which remained in the hands of the older branch of the family; the Savoy-style château de Chenaux, built by the Estavayer-Chenaux branch on the north side of the town ; and the château de Savoie, built by the Estavayer-Cugy family around 1300 to the south of the town. The latter owes its name to the fact that huge debts forced the family to sell the property to the House of Savoy in 1349.

Chenaux is the only castle which has survived completely intact. The sole remaining vestige of the château de Savoie is its imposing square tower which is flanked by what would have been the outer walls of the main building. As for Motte-Châtel, by the end of the 13th century it had ceased to serve a defensive function and was subsequently demolished. The ruling family occupied the main part of the bailey before building a more comfort-able residence, close to the church. The house, which dates from the early 14th century, has survived and is known as the “Maison des Sires”.

History

1. Collegiate Church of Saint Lawrence2. Castle of Chenaux3. Castle entrance

3. Dungeon4. et 5. Brickbuilt round towers

Humbert, Bastard of Savoy

In the early 15th century, the House of Savoy strengthened its foothold in La Broye. In 1403, Amadeus VIII, Duke of Savoy, gifted all incomes from the territory to his half-brother Humbert, nicknamed “the Bastard of Savoy”, so as to keep a firmer grip on the northern confines of his purlieu. Humbert embraced his new home, choosing Estavayer as his main residence. As well as two houses in town, Humbert acquired the château de Savoie in 1421. He also bought the château de Chenaux in 1432 from co-seigneur, Anselm of Estavayer, who had fallen on hard times and could no longer afford the castle’s upkeep.

Humbert reinforced the fortress and flanked it with imposing round towers. An architectural show of strength, this urban stronghold sent out a clear message to the denizens of Estavayer whose record as loyal subjects was, at best, patchy. Humbert died in 1443 before work on the interior of the for-tress was completed. He was buried in the Holy Trinity burial chapel of the

4 5

History

Dominican convent that he founded in 1423-25. The people of Estavayer remembered Humbert with fondness and viewed his legacy in a positive light. Documents in the town archives refer to him as “Humbert, of happy memory”.

Burgundian Wars and Fribourg rule

On the eve of the Burgundian wars, the overlord of the Estavayer co-sei-gneurs, James of Savoy, the Duke of Romont, pledged his allegiance to Charles the Bold. His actions led the Confederates to launch an attack on Estavayer in 1475. Contrary to contemporary Swiss accounts, the assault was far from a rout. Admittedly, the town’s defender, co-seigneur Claude of Estavayer, was killed, as were the soldiers manning the garrison. However, the population escaped virtually unscathed and the only building that was torched was the château de Chenaux.

In 1478, faced with crippling debts, the co-seigneurs of Estavayer-Chenaux were forced to surrender the château de Chenaux, and with it their feu-dal rights, to their creditors, their Excellencies of Fribourg This marked the start of Fribourg domination, which would be further consolidated in 1536, when Fribourg acquired the château de Savoie and its co-seigneury following the expulsion of the Duke of Savoy from Vaud. Fribourg further tightened its grip when its bailiff, now installed in Cheneaux, was ap-pointed sheriff (Schultheiss) of the town. He presided over the supreme local authority, the town council. However, the Savoys, in their wisdom, had made sure that their interests would be defended by members of the minor nobility and local bourgeoisie. However, it was not until 1632 that Fribourg finally had complete control over Estavayer, acquiring the feudal rights of the older branch of the ruling family upon the death of Lawrence, the last co-seigneur of Estavayer .

Prosperity and decline

To understand Estavayer, you need to bear in mind that until the middle of the 19th century water levels in Lake Neuchâtel were much higher, extend-ing as far as the town’s northside defensive walls. At that time, Estavayer was a bustling harbour and trading hub. While people in the upper parts of the town earned a living from farming, the residents of La Rive depended on the lake for their livelihood, working either as fishermen or boatmen. Trade with settlements on the northern shores of the lake and with Neu-châtel generated valuable income. However, this prosperity would not last. In 1536 Neuchatel and Vaud voted in favour of the Reformation. From that point on, trade with Catholic Estavayer dwindled. This economic decline was hastened by the advent of the railways and motorised transport. By the end of the 19th century, residents of La Rive eked out a living from fishing. Fribourg was almost powerless to curb the descent of its remote outpost.

Hörttner, 1599

6 7

Historic sites and buildings

1. The Banc des HallesThe starting point of your tour of Estavayer is the Banc des Halles, also known as the “banc des bavardages” (gossip bench) at the corner of the Place de l’Eglise and Grand-Rue. With the QR codes and this guide, you have everything you need to discover the rich and fascinating history of this medieval city. Enjoy!

2. Collegiate Church of Saint Lawrence The Gothic Collegiate Church of Saint Lawrence was built on the founda-tions of a former Romanesque church and took almost 150 years to com-plete (1379- 1525). The bell tower with its four bartizans and spire gives the church its distinctive appearance. The inside of the church is equally stunning. Its magnificent choir stalls date from 1522, and its 16th century organ is the only one of its kind in Switzerland.

3. Tithe houseThis house was acquired by Humbert of Savoy in 1405. He also purchased the neighbouring properties, transforming them into an impressive town resi-dence. Today, it is one of the best-preserved medieval buildings in Estavayer. The outer wall still bears Humbert’s coat of arms. In 1625 the property was bought by Fribourg, which used it as a tithe house.

4. Porte de Grandcour Also known as the Porte du Camus, this gateway was built around 1338 within the walls that surrounded the Bâtiaz quarter, the latest extension to the medieval town. The entrance, which was restored in 1513, bears the coat of arms of the town’s new Fribourg masters, which was added in 1626, as well as the heraldic shield of Lawrence, the last Lord of Estavayer (bottom left). The centre of the gateway also has a carved rose, the town’s emblem.

5. Château de ChenauxThe castle of Chenaux (from the Latin Castrum de canalibus) owes its name to the huge ditches that encircle it. On the orders of Peter of Estavayer and his brother William, construction work began in 1284. It was later bought by Humbert of Savoy (1432) who transformed the castle into an imposing for-tress by adding a second set of fortifications and two brickwork towers. In a show of strength, Humbert added a large tower which faced the town, as well as a commanding defensive stronghold to the front of the ditch. How-ever, this well-defended castle would remain unoccupied as Humbert died in 1443 before final work on the interior of the property could be finished.

8 9

Self-guided QR-code tour.16 panels near historic siteswith audio commentaries

Historic sites and buildings

6. Motte-Châtel and Passage des Egralets

The hill of Motte-Chatel was the site of Estavayer’s first castle, generally thought to date from the 11th century. With its sheer cliffs, this rocky outcrop offered an excellent strategic location for this castle, making it virtually unas-sailable. Today, a school occupies the same spot. The 25 metres which separate the upper and lower parts of the town are linked by a quaint and narrow set of 105 steps, known as the Escalier des Egralets. It is a much-loved shortcut among schoolchildren running late for class, as well as among visitors and locals enjoying a leisurely stroll.

7. Maison des Sires

The “Maison des Sires” is one of the most interesting and best preserved buildings in Estavayer-le-Lac. Built in the 14th century, it became the main residence of the older branch of the ruling Estavayer family, after they had abandoned their ancestral seat of Motte-Châtel. Their coat-of-arms can be seen on many of the window headers as well as on the imposing ground-floor window grate. It remained the home of the Lords of Estavayer-le-Lac until 1632.

8. Place de Moudon and rifle houser

The Place de Moudon dates from the same period as Estavayer’s oldest castle, Motte-Châtel, and was part of the castrum, or fortress attached to the castle. It was here that the co-seigneurs’ inner circle of ministers and advisors would have lived. The square owes its name to the descend-ants of Francis of Moudon who bought the house in the early part of the 15th century. In the 16th century the town of Estavayer bought back all the houses on the site, with the intention of demolishing them to make way for the first public square. The rifle house was where archers came to practice, shooting at targets positioned downhill from the Château de Chenaux. Before you leave the square, take a look at the imposing linden tree. It was planted in the 16th century.

9. Porte de la Rochette

There was a time when the waters of Lake Neuchâtel reached as far as the gateway of la Rochette. Mooring eyes can still be seen on the remains of the fortifications adjoining the entrance. Originally very narrow, the gate-way was widened in 1767 to accommodate carts and chariots. Formerly known as “petite rive”, La Rochette was a popular neighbourhood among local fishermen and boatmen due to its proximity to the lake. Many of the houses still feature fish carvings above their front door.

10 11

10. Rivaz Chapel Rivaz Chapel, which dates from 1488, was acquired in 1602 by Beat-Jacob of Neuchâtel, Lord of Gorgier (NE), who made it a burial chapel for his family. From 1622, the chapel was ministered by a community of Minim Fri-ars, and later by a community of Christian Brothers who resided in Motte-Châtel. Built on the lakeshore, the chapel was a place of pilgrimage for local fishermen.

11. Ruelle des Moulins

The Ruelle des Moulins (mill lane) derives its name from the mills that had lined the Moulins River since the 13th century. The wheels were driven by water from the Moulins Canal, which was channelled through pounds sup-ported by sandstone columns. One of these columns is still visible today on the Route du Port, opposite the Gotetaz fountain. Records from the 14 and 15th centuries show that there were up to 11 businesses operating along the riverbank, including windmills, tanneries, an oil-mill, a saw mill and several grain mills. Some remained in operation right up to the 1950s.

12. Porte de la Thiolleyres

The earliest reference to the gateway dates from 1372. At that time it was known as the “porte du Grand Port” and was the entrance to the enclosure built in the 14th century to protect the Grande Rive quarter. Before the lake was lowered in 1879, this gateway did not connect to any street; its sole purpose was as an access route to the town’s main port, which was situated in a small estuary sheltered from the cold and blustery Bise wind. Behind the Thiolleyres Gate, you can hear the sound of the Moulins river gushing into the lake

13. Tour de la trahison

Built in 1624, this square watchtower replaced an older tower which was first mentioned in 1478. Historians in the 19th century renamed it “trea-son tower” in reference to an incident that took place at the height of the Burgundian Wars. According to historical accounts, a handful of terri-fied guards who were on duty at the time took fright when they saw the confederate army approaching, and fled their post so quickly that they left ropes which aided their escape dangling from the top of the tower, mak-ing it incredibly easy for the besiegers to take the castle and ransack the medieval town .

Historic sites and buildings

12 13

Historic sites and buildings

14. Tour de Lombardie

With political tension risings, the Count of Romont, James of Savoy, urged the Estavayer authorities to reinforce their compound to prevent an even-tual takeover by the Confederates. In 1474, the Lombardy tower was built and equipped with a large number of keyhole embrasures to allow the artillery to take shot at eventual invaders.

15. Tour de Savoie

The Savoy Tower is all that remains of Estavayer’s second castle, the Châ-teau de Savoie, which was built by the co-seigneurs of Estavayer-Cugy at the end of the 13th century. Due to its unusual height and its impos-ing proportions, the tower was not only a fortification but also served as the gate lodge to a stately residence. All that remains of the building are its curtain walls, which flank each side of the tower. As well as standing higher than the city walls further on, each of these curtain walls are almost 20 metres long.

16. Dominican Convent

In 1316, William of Estavayer, canon of Lausanne cathedral and archdea-con of Lincoln, brought a community of Dominican nuns to Estavayer. They have remained there ever since. Today, some 15 nuns live in the convent. In the 15th century, the convent had a generous benefactor, Humbert of Savoy, who founded the construction of the burial chapel. He also covered the costs of rebuilding the church’s choir. Both feature his coat-of-arms. By the end of the 17th century the Dominican community had enough money of their own to have the convent rebuilt. This work began in 1686 and was completed in 1735.

14 15

Town map

Public buildingRailwayStationBoatTourist office

ParkingPublibike stationHospitalViewpointCastle

CampingSchwimminpoolTennis courtMinigolfWater-skilift

Captions Public buildingRailwayStationBoatTourist office

ParkingPublibike stationHospitalViewpointCastle

CampingSchwimminpoolTennis courtMinigolfWater-skilift

Public buildingRailwayStationBoatTourist office

ParkingPublibike stationHospitalViewpointCastle

CampingSchwimminpoolTennis courtMinigolfWater-skilift

Citytour

Place deMoudon

Place del’Eglise

Grand -Rue

Grand-Rue

PlaceSt-Claude

Place deChenaux

Sentier

des Dominicaines

Pl. de la Chaussée

Rue du Musée

Rue de Forel

Placedes

Bastians

Rue de l’Hôtel de vil

le

Route du PortSentier des Lézards

Rue de la Thiolleyres

Rue de la Rochette

Rue du Camus

Placedu

Midi

Route du Port

Rue du Four

Rue des Granges

Rue de la Gare

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

14

15

16

9

1011

1213

Ruelle des Moulins

LesEgralets

1. Banc des mensonges

2. Collegiate Church of Saint Lawrence

3. Tithe house

4. Porte de Grandcour

5. Castle of Chenaux

6. Motte-Châtel and les Egralets

7. Maison des Sires

8. Place de Moudon and rifle houser

9. Porte de la Rochette

10. Rivaz Chapel

11. Ruelle des Moulins

12. Porte de la Thiolleyres

13. Tour de la Trahison

14. Tour de Lombardie

15. Tour de Savoie

16. Dominican convent

CaptionsHistoric sitesand monuments

Self-guided QR-code tour.16 panels near historic siteswith audio commentaries

Estavayer-le-Lac / Payerne Tourisme Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville 16 1470 Estavayer-le-Lac T +41 (0)26 663 12 37 F +41 (0)26 663 42 07 tourisme@estavayer-payerne.ch

www.estavayer-payerne.ch

Estavayer-le-Lac attracts visitors by its stunning medieval archi-tecture, unchanged since the time it was built. Winding cobbled streets, covered carriage entrances and fountains are admired and enjoyed all year round. Let’s you captive by this authentic, scenic and steeped city !

Publication details

- Photo credits: Olivier Rapin, Sébastien Chastellain, Anne Meyer Loetscher, DR- Map: Swissgeo©Géomatics Ingénierie SA - Idea: Estavayer-le-Lac/Payerne Tourisme- Graphic design: Anne Meyer Loetscher- Content: Daniel de Raemy from the Cultural Property Service of the canton of Fribourg and

Louis Joye- Bibliography: Aloys Lauper, Gilles Bourgarel, Anne-Catherine Page, Estavayer-le-Lac: le

passé revisité, Pro Fribourg no. 109, 1995; Henri Pillonel, Le Ruisseau des Moulins: les usiniers au fil de l’eau, Estavayer-le-Lac, 2000; Daniel de Raemy, Les Monuments d’Art et d’Histoire du canton de Fribourg, Volume VI: La ville d’Estavayer-le-Lac, pending; “Site of the Month”, ISOS, October 2002

- Printed in Switzerland, 2013