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by sam polcer

&WindBy

WaveKauai burst onto the scene millions of years ago, and is now filled to the brim with exciting adventures.

auai was formed 5 million years ago when the Earth opened and massive amounts of hot lava rushed into the ocean. It’s the oldest of the eight major Hawaiian islands, and there were once 2,000 miles between

its dramatic landscape of lifeless rock and the nearest significant land mass. Seven hundred or so species of flora and fauna were carried across the ocean by wind and wave, staking an early claim on a particularly choice piece of rock in one of the most hospitable climates in the world. Over the course of millions of years, that 700 evolved into approximately 6,000, mainly comprised of plants, insects, birds, bats and seals.

The Polynesians discovered Kauai around 400 A.D., and in the hulls of their canoes they brought new kinds of plants and animals (pigs, chickens, sugar cane, taro, pineapple, coconuts, among others). This changed the environment forever, and was the beginning of a trend that continued

for thousands of years, as people quickly discovered that almost anything would grow on Kauai—and, seemingly, still does.

Kauai’s culture and economy have largely been defined by the people’s relationship to the land itself. This, of course, is not unique to the island of Kauai—natural resources play a huge role in any civilization’s development—but make no mistake: the island, its resources and the people’s relationship to them are unique.

Today, while farming continues (the Kauai Coffee Company, for example, in Koloa, is the largest coffee grower in Hawaii), the people’s economy and the land have formed a new connection. The abundant natural beauty that greeted its first visitors has brought a new kind of visitor to Kauai.

This visitor is more interested in paddling down a river than irrigating a field. This new connection is based on the pure, serene and magical beauty that exists in a place that, a long time ago, literally burst from the center of the Earth.

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Kauai is a paradise for eco-travelers and outdoor adventurers. here are a few reasons why:

only 3% of the land has been developed for commercial and residential use. While the increasing popularity of the island as a destination will undoubtedly encourage an increase in development, the fact that 90% of its rugged terrain remains inaccessible by road pretty much insures that a good portion will remain untouched for a long time.

by law, no man-made structure can be taller than the height of a mature coconut palm tree (approximately four to six stories), leaving breathtaking views to include only trees, cliffs, beaches and clear sky.

It is the only Hawaiian island with navigable rivers. Between the water surrounding it, the water raining on it and the water passing through it, there is ample opportunity to explore the complex, beautiful and humbling ways in which earth and water interact. Best to dive right in.

The weather includes perfect temperatures year-round (70s and 80s) and enough rain, which comes in brief, surprisingly unobtrusive showers, to keep the island green and flowering. The popular misconception of Kauai as a soggy vacation destination is due in large part to the fact that Mount Waialeale, in the virtually inaccessible interior, is one of the wettest spots on earth (it averages 440 inches of rain a year)—but, in reality, it takes a helicopter ride to get there and the rest of the island‘s climate runs a pretty full gamut. generally speaking, it’s drier on the south side and wetter (and more lush) in the north.

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GThe “Garden Island” is, fittingly, home

to some of the most beautiful and fascinating botanical gardens in the world. Some highlight the indigenous

and endangered plant life that has existed there for thousands of years, and others offer a dizzying array of tropical flora that private collectors have donated to the public. Whichever garden you choose to stroll in (some offer very engaging, informative guided tours), it’ll probably be unlike anything you’ve ever seen on the mainland, and something is always in bloom.

The American Horticultural Society selected limahuli garden (www.limahuli.com) as the best natural botanical garden in the United States. Nestled in a lush tropical valley along the north shore, the garden’s collection includes plants native to Hawaii, those brought to the island by its Polynesian discoverers, and the flowers and fruits introduced during Hawaii’s plantation era. The garden itself is adjacent to the Limahuli Preserve, which is closed to visitors, and where conservationists and biologists are working to preserve species native to the habitat.

Also on the north side, the na aina Kai botanical gardens (www.naainakai.org) were once the private estate of Joyce and Ed Doty, who turned the property into a nonprofit organization and opened it to the public in 2000. It is a truly unique 240-acre botanical playground, with a cornucopia of well-maintained surprises around every corner of its 13 gardens, hardwood plantation, farmland, meadow, canyon and beach. As if the dazzling tropical flora (some native, much brought from elsewhere) weren’t enough, the Dotys placed 70 bronze sculptures (one of the nation’s largest collections) throughout the estate, each one interacting with the landscape in a different way.

The national headquarters for the National Tropical Botanical Garden organization overlooks the first garden of the NTBG, mcbryde garden (www.ntbg.org), on the south side of the island. McBryde, situated in the Lawai Valley, contains a treasure trove of tropical flora from Hawaii and all over the world. Between the McBryde Garden and the Pacific Ocean lies the allerton garden (www.ntbg.org), in a part of the lower Lawai Valley that was purchased and transformed in 1938 by an ambitious artist who, along with his adopted architect son, filled the varied topography of the land with exquisite flowers, plants, trees, statues, pools and fountains, transforming it into a stunning garden masterpiece.

Garden Variety

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N If you lived on a 533-square-mile island, you

might think it would be tough to take a short trip and just “get away.” Well, ask any local and they’ll tell you otherwise. Just kayak to one of

the beaches along the famous na Pali coast and camp out for a few days. Inaccessible by road, the coast is the kind of spectacular natural wonder that brings film crews, inspires poets and artists, and will take your breath away. Historians believe it was the first place on the island settled by the Polynesians, its dramatic, rugged landscape acting as a natural fortress around beaches and valleys. Today, the Na Pali Coast can be experienced a number of ways; some take more effort than others, but all are completely awe-inspiring.

The Kalalau trail (www.hawaii.gov) begins west of the town of Hanalei, at the end of the Kuhio Highway. Most hikers opt to turn around after two miles at Hanakapiai Beach. Finishing those four miles is no small feat in itself, but if you want the full experience, obtain a permit before you go, and camp overnight at Kalalau Beach after braving all 11 miles. You will be rewarded with pristine waterfalls along the way, a secluded beach and an unforgettable adventure. The trail can be wet, steep and slippery in places, so make sure you bring the right shoes and a bit of caution.

The sheer size of the cliffs (pali) that drop down into valleys and the ocean make an unforgettable viewing experience from a helicopter. In fact, much of Kauai can only be seen from the sky, so there are a number of helicopter tour operators on the island. blue hawaiian (www.bluehawaiian.com) offers a “Kauai ECO Adventure,” taking passengers on a ride that includes spectacular views of Waimea Canyon, Mount Waialeale and the Na Pali Coast, aboard an environmentally responsible, quiet EC130-B4 “ECO-Star”—“the world’s first 21st-century touring helicopter.”

Depending on the season, and if you’re up for a challenge, an excursion along the coast in a sea kayak is perhaps the most adventurous way to explore the area. A 17-mile guided tour is offered by a few adventure outfitters, including Hanelei-based Kayak Kauai (www.kayakkauai.com), which dubs the trip “the Everest of sea kayaking.”

If paddling over rough seas isn’t your idea of fun, a five-hour tour aboard a tricked-out catamaran on one of capt. andy’s sailing adventures (www.napali.com) might be what the family needs. You get the same views as those from the kayak, and there’s a good chance you’ll see spinner dolphins, sea turtles and whales along the way. On the way back, the boat anchors for a quick snorkel stop.

Natural Na Pali

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BWith so much undeveloped land

to explore, Kauai offers ample opportunities to dive into nature headfirst. The island’s

adventure outfitters tend to offer more than one package; their catalogs are near identical to the next company’s, and tend to include kayaking (sea and river), snorkeling, hiking, ziplining and biking. Princeville ranch adventures (www.adventureskauai.com) and its zipline/kayak/hike safari will give you a taste of what the north side of the island has to offer, and is a great example of a Kauai landowner who has recognized the value of keeping its acreage appealing to eco-tourists. outfitters Kauai (www.outfitterskauai.com), based on the south side, also takes advantage of privately owned land, with contracts allowing them to take groups on similar outdoor expeditions. They also offer an exhilarating 12-mile downhill bike ride that goes from the rim of Waimea Canyon down to the Pacific—an invigorating way to start or end your day.

Eco-travelers are used to experiencing nature in its purest state, one that exists without any outside influence. Surrounded by such lush greenery, it is easy to forget that almost everything you see on Kauai is the result of an outside influence—that it was, at one point in time, a piece of barren rock jutting up out of the ocean. From the wind and waves that brought its first forms of life; to the first Polynesian taro farmers; to the botanists cultivating exotic flowers; and to those choosing to explore its awesome beauty—Kauai’s land and people are connected. Each inspires the other in ways that can be powerful, unexpected, subtle and sublime.

Backcountry Adventures

Kauai offers ample

opportunities to dive

into nature headfirst.

Kauai unplugged THe HAnAleI Colony ReSoRT would be quIeT… If IT weRen’T foR All THoSe wAveS ouTSIde THe wIndow.

Kauai boasts some of the most luxurious resort hotels in the world. On the island’s north shore, across seven one-lane bridges in the tiny town of Haena, the Hanalei Colony Resort possesses a different kind of luxury, one that is not easily manufactured. Situated directly on a secluded beach, the atmosphere at this eco-village/condo resort is in-tune with the natural beauty that surrounds it. There are no TVs, stereos or phones (although there is WiFi in the lounge). The 48 two-bedroom units each boast a private deck and fully equipped kitchen, and the on-site Napali Art Gallery & Coffee House is a great place to start your day. www.hcr.com

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