chapter 16 haircutting€¦ · © copyright 2012 milady, a part of cengage learning. all rights...

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned,

copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Chapter 16

Haircutting



“Although fate presents the

circumstances, how you react depends

on your character.”

– Anonymous



Objectives

• Identify reference points on the head form and

understand their role in haircutting.

• Define angles, elevations, and guidelines.

• List the factors involved in a successful client

consultation.

• Explain the use of the various tools of haircutting.

• Name three things you can do to ensure good posture

and body position while cutting hair.



Anatomy of the Skull

• Reference points

–Parietal ridge

–Occipital bone



• Apex

• Four corners

Anatomy of the Skull (continued)



Areas of the Head

• Top

• Front

• Sides

• Crown

• Nape

• Back

• Fringe



Lines and Angles

• Straight lines

• Angles



• Straight Lines

– Horizontal

– Vertical

– Diagonal

Lines and Angles (continued)



• Angles: beveling, stacking

Lines and Angles (continued)



Elevation

• Elevation: angle at which hair is

held from head

• Sections: uniform working areas

• Subsections: smaller partings

• Graduation: layers described

in degrees



Graduation

• Below 90 degrees: builds weight

• Above 90 degrees: removes weight



Cutting Line

• Cutting line: angle at which fingers are held when cutting



Guidelines

• Stationary guide (does not move)

• Traveling guide (moves as haircut progresses)



Elevation Examples

• Blunt, one-length cut

• 90-degree elevation



• 45-degree with 90-degree

• Overdirection

Elevation Examples (continued)



Client Consultation

• What does client want?

• How much time is available?

• What is lifestyle?

• What is preferred look (classic or trendy)?



Identifying Face Shape

• Pull hair back or wrap with towel.

• Note length and width of face.

• Note balance of features.

– Weight and volume

– Profiles



Hairlines and Growth Patterns

• Hairline: the outermost perimeter along face, around

ears, and on neck

• Growth pattern: direction hair grows from scalp



Hair Analysis

• Hairlines and growth patterns

• Density (hairs per square inch)

• Texture (diameter of a hair strand)

• Wave pattern (amount of movement in the hair strand)



Tools

• Haircutting shears • Straight razor



• Clippers

• Trimmers

• Sectioning clips

• Wide-tooth comb

• Tail comb

• Barber comb

• Styling/cutting comb

Tools (continued)



All About Shears

• Steel

– Gauging hardness

– Rockwell hardness

• Cast shears

• Forged shears



Parts of a Shear

• Cutting edge

• Pivot

• Adjustment knob

• Finger tang

• Ring-finger hole

• Thumb hole



Shear Maintenance

• Daily cleaning and lubrication

• Daily tension adjustment and balancing

• Weekly cleaning and lubrication

• Disinfecting shears

• Sharpening shears



Purchasing Shears

• Consider dominant hand design

• Know how manufactured

• Learn about steel quality

• Decide on correct blade edge

• Select best handle design

• Be sure of fit



• Hold shears in hand.

• Swivel thumb shears.

• Learn about service agreement.

• Ask about warranty.

• Analyze cost.

• Determine how many needed.

Purchasing Shears (continued)



Fitting Shears

• Fitting ring finger

• Fitting thumb

• Relaxing grip

• Correct finger position and alignment



Holding Shears



Palming the Shears



Holding the Razor

• Method A

– Open razor so handle is higher than shank.

– Place thumb on thumb grip.

– Place index, middle, and ring fingers on shank.

– Place little finger in tang.

– Position razor on top of subsection



Holding the Razor (continued)

• Method B

– Open razor so handle and shank form a straight line.

– Place thumb on grip and wrap fingers around handle.

– Palm razor by curling ring finger and little finger around

razor.

– Hold comb between razor and index and middle fingers.



Posture and Body Position

• Position the client.

– Sitting straight

– Legs not crossed

• Center your weight.

– Knees slightly bent, not locked

– Bend one knee to lean slightly

• Stand in front of section being cut.



Positions for Cutting Angles

• Cutting over fingers

• Cutting below fingers

• Cutting palm-to-palm



Safety in Haircutting

• Palm shears.

• Do not cut past second knuckle.

• Take care around ears.

• Balance shears and place knuckles.

• Use razor guard.

• Dispose of blades carefully.



Cutting Curly Hair

• Shrinks more than straight hair

• Minimal tension (wide-tooth comb)

• Naturally “graduates” itself

• Expands more than straight hair

• No razor

• Texturizing techniques



Curly Haircut



Cutting Fringe

• Can use stationary guide

• Short bangs make strong statement.

• Slide cut long fringe.

• Cut small portion of fringe.

• To blend or not to blend



Razor Cutting

• Razor parallel to subsection at 45-degree angle

• Razor held at 45-degree angle.

• Effective with blonde hair

• Guide above fingers



Razor-Cutting Tips

• Avoid using on coarse, wiry, or damaged hair.

• Always use a guard.

• Always use a new blade.

• Keep hair wet.

• Hold razor at an angle; never force.



Slide Cutting

• Used to cut or thin hair

• Blends shorter hair to longer

• Useful in texturizing

• Only on wet hair



Scissors-Over-Comb

• Hair held in place with comb.

• Shear tips remove length.

• Method used to create short tapers.

• Works best on dry hair.

• Lift hair with comb; comb acts as guide.



• Do not hold hair between fingers.

• Shears and comb move up head together.

• Strive for continual motion.

Scissors-Over-Comb (continued)



Scissors-Over-Comb Steps

• Stand in front of client.

• Place comb.

• Move comb up head.

• Angle comb to blend with longer hair.



More Tips

• Work with small areas.

• Start at hairline and work up.

• Cross-check work diagonally.

• Use barber comb for close areas.



Texturizing with Shears

• Point-cutting and notching



• Free-hand notching

• Slithering or effilating

• Slicing

• Carving

• Carving the ends

Texturizing with Shears (continued)



Texturizing with a Razor

• Removing weight

• Free-hand slicing

• Razor-over-comb



Texturizing with

Thinning Shears and Razor

• Remove bulk or weight.

– Section as for haircut.

– Comb subsection from head.

– Cut 4 to 5 inches from scalp.

– Stay farther from scalp for coarse hair.

• Remove weight from ends.



• Thinning shears-over-comb

• Other thinning shears techniques

• Free-hand slicing with razor

• Razor-over-comb

• Razor rotation

Texturizing with

Thinning Shears and Razor (continued)



Tips for Clipper Cutting

• Work against natural growth pattern.

• Work in small sections (no wider than 3 inches).

• Determine comb angle.



Trimming Facial Hair

• Using tool-over-comb method

• Cutting against comb

• Using length guard

• Brow and ear hair



General Haircutting Tips

• Take consistent, clean partings.

• Be aware of potential danger zones.

• Use consistent tension.

• Pay attention to head position.

• Maintain even moisture.



Basic Haircuts

• Blunt haircut

– Weight line

– Stationary guide used

• Graduated haircut

– Visual buildup of weight

– Ends appear stacked

– Traveling guide used



More Basic Haircuts

• Layered haircut

– Less weight than graduated cuts

– Creates movement and volume

• Long layered haircut

– Gives volume to styles

– Can be combined with other cuts

– Layers increase form; short to longer toward

perimeter

• Men’s basic clipper cut



Procedures – Practical Class

• Pre-Service Procedure

• Post-Service Procedure



• Blunt haircut

The Blunt Haircut



• Graduated haircut

– Classic graduated bob

– Wedge

– Shorter shape with rounded weight

The Graduated Haircut



Tips for Graduated Cuts

• Keep elevation below 45 degrees with coarse textures

and curly hair.

• Fine hair responds well to graduation.

• Check neckline carefully before cutting short.

• Always use fine teeth of comb and maintain even tension

to ensure a precise line.



• Uniformed layered haircut

• Long-layered haircut


Layered Haircuts



Layer Cut Examples

• Pixie, cro, Caesar

• Squared layers

• Shag



Tips for Layered Haircuts

• Cut the interior first.

• Do not cut thin hair too short.

• Do not cut coarse hair shorter than 3 inches in length.

• Do not cut top layers too short.

• Use slide cutting to connect top sections to lengths.



• Work with guideline.

• Cross-check haircut.

• Use mirror to see elevation.

• Check both sides by standing in front.

• Leave curly hair longer.

Tips for Layered Haircuts (continued)




Men’s Basic Clipper Cut



Summary and Review

• What are reference points and what is their function?

• What are angles, elevations, and guidelines?

• What are important considerations to discuss with a

client during a haircutting consultation?



• What are the uses for a razor, haircutting shears, styling

or cutting comb, and texturizing shears?

• Name three steps to ensuring good posture and body

position while cutting hair.

• Name and describe four basic haircut types.

Summary and Review (continued)



• Name and describe at least three different texturizing

techniques performed with shears.

• What is a clipper cut?

• How is a trimmer used?

Summary and Review (continued)



You have completed one unit of study

toward course completion.

Congratulations!

chapter 16 haircutting€¦ · © copyright 2012 milady, a part of cengage learning. all rights...

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