cognis green chemical solutionstm - society of€¦ · cognis apg ® surfactants—from ... keltrol...

CognisGreen Chemical Solutions TM

The Greening of Personal Care from Ingredient Classification to High Performing Consumer Products

October 27, 2009

Josef Koester, Director Marketing Care Chemicals NAFTA

Cognis in Brief

Over 160 years Experience in Oleochemical

Corporate focus: Wellness & Sustainability

Approximately 6,000 employees operating production sites and service centers in about 30 countries

2008 Sales: €3.0 billion ($4.2 billion)

Leading global specialty chemicals company

Headquartered in Germany

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The Green Market Trend

Cognis Green Chemical SolutionsTM

- Portfolio Easy Guide

- Regulation Easy Guide

- Green Formulation Grid

Emollient Selection Criteria and Formulation Challenges

Conclusion

Agenda

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Going “green” is a reality ... In the media


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Going “green” is a reality ... For our customers


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Everybody is talking about it!


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Environment

Waste saving

Natural raw materials

Sustainability

Ethic

Organic

Health

Recycling

Fair trade

Sourcing

Energy saving

Performance

Technology

Does everybody mean the same the same thing?


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Suppliers

Certification bodies

Retailer

Manufacturers

Consumer

Regulations

Where to begin?


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IngredientsCosmetic products


Where to begin?

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It’s your choice how green you want to be !

TM

Cognis´ Approach to meeting the “Green” Trend

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Cognis Product Portfolio

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Co-surfactants

Consistency waxes

Basic emollients

Cationics

Pearlizers

Polymers

Lipid Layer

EnhancersPerformanceDispersions

Botanicals

SpecialEmollients

Natural

Oils

Emulsifiers

Solubilizers

SensorialSurfactants

Biopolymers

Vegetable

Proteins

Emulsion

active ingredients

sensorials

emollient

emulsifier

self-emulsifying base

consistency factor wax

water

Shampoo

active ingredients,perfumes

co surfactants

pearlshine, thickners, auxiliaries

basic surfactants

water

cationic additives silicones,waxy emollients

Sensory Modifiers

DeliverySystemsCapsules

Basic Surfactants

"Actives"

Emulsion

BasesVitamins

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Cognis Product Portfolio Easy Guide

A Systematic Approach…

TM

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Cognis APG® Surfactants—from 100% natural feedstocksTM

Alkyl Polyglucosides (APG ®)

GlucoseCorn, Potato, or Wheat Fatty Alcohols Vegetable Oil

Cognis Product Portfolio Easy Guide TM

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� based on 100% natural renewable raw materials� vegetable origin� produced according to the 12 Principles of

Green Chemistry (1)

� free from preservatives, sulfates and ethylene oxide

� extraordinary environmental footprint� readily biodegradable

� APG® meets the requirements for acceptance according to:

(1) Anastas P.T. & Warner J.C. (1998). Green Chemistry: Theory and Practice, Oxford University Press: New york.

FDA

GRAS


Cognis APG® Surfactants—from 100% natural feedstocks

TM

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Body wash OthersHair Care

Tooth pasteShower gel Shampoo

Foam bath

Liqiud soap

Soap bar

Baby + kidsshampoo

Conditioner

Cleansing wipes

Facial wash

Skin Care emulsions & creams

Cognis APG® Surfactants

For Personal Care Applications

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From natural, renewable & synthetic feedstocks; renewable & synthetic building blocks are combined in a chemical process. Greater share of natural C-atoms

CognisHybrids

CognisEcohybrids

CognisNatural modified

CognisSynthetics

From 100 % natural, renewable feedstocks; physicallypurified by water/alcohol or energy.

From 100 % natural, renewable feedstocks; chemically processed, catalyst or reaction aids used.

From synthetic feedstocks; chemically processed.

From natural, renewable & synthetic feedstocks; renewable& synthetic building blocks are combined in a chemical process. SSmaller share of natural C-atoms

CognisNaturals


Remark: All evaluations do not consider preservations, processing aids, catalysts

TM

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Cognis Product Portfolio Easy Guide TM

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Certification Bodies in North America

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NSF - ‘Made with organic’ standard American National Standard, NSF/ANSI 305

OASIS - Organic and ‘made with organic’ standard

Personal Care Certification Bodies – Cognis Involvement

NPA - Natural standard

NaTrue - Originated in Brussels, Natural and Organic certification seal

BDIH - Originated in Germany, global reach, “natural” standard

Ecocert - Originated in France, global reach, “Bio” and “Eco” standards

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NSF – Approval process under development

OASIS – Approval process under development

NPA – 17 Cognis products approved; 48 products pending

NaTrue – Approval process under development

BDIH – 30 Cognis products approved

Ecocert – 73 Cognis products approved

Personal Care Certification Bodies – Cognis Involvement

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Cognis Green Formulation Grid

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Sustainability vs. performancePerformance is the first priority for premium products

“Greenness”e.g. % of natural, renewable C-atoms (weighted) all ingredients*

PerformanceMarket Benchmark

AdvancedProduct

ClassicProduct

SuperiorProduct

Cognis Green Formulation Grid TM

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EXPLORING GREEN …..I am inspired by green. I expect the fulfillment of performance promises. I decide case by case how green I want to be depending on green claims and performance.> 70 % natural C-atoms in Cognis´green formulations

Eco-Image>50%

Eco-Mind>70%

Eco-Spirit>85%

GREEN IS MY CREDO …. I respect the earth‘s sustainable balance. I seriously consider the choices I make.I am not willing to make any compromise on green.> 95 % natural C-atoms and does not contain the following materials: Petrolatum, Mineral Oil, Silicones, PEG/PPG, DEA/TEA

GREEN COUNTS…. I try to consume products that are as natural, green and genuine as possible. I am honest and authentic in my purchasing decisions. I am a sophisticated consumer with high demands.> 85 % natural C-atoms in Cognis´green formulations

OPPORTUNISTIC GREEN …. I am willing to buy green products that meet expectations and are easily accessible. I do not question every detail. I like easy choices.> 50 % natural C-atoms in Cognis´green formulations

Eco-Passion> 95%

Green Grid Consumer Categories TM

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q. s. ParfumPerfume

Agent, pH adjusting1.4Citric AcidCitric Acid (50 %)

Lipid layer enhancer2.0Coco-Glucoside (and) Glyceryl Oleate

LAMESOFT® PO 65

Agent, pearlescent2.0Lauryl Glucoside (and) Stearyl Citrate

EUPERLAN ® GREEN

~ 6,400

5.0

54.2

1.3

0.5

0.5

13.3

22.8

Weight %(as is )

Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, 23 °C, spindle 4, 10 rpm) mPa.s

pH-value (as is)

AquaWater, demin.

Agent, thickeningSodium ChlorideNaCl

PreservativeSodium BenzoateSodium Benzoate

Active, ingredientHydrolyzed Wheat ProteinGLUADIN® WLM BENZ

Surfactant, cleaningCoco-GlucosidePLANTACARE ® 818 UP

Surfactant, cleaningSodium Coco-SulfateSULFOPON® K 35 UP

FunctionINCIEco status

Ingredients

Naturecare – Pearly Shampoo TM

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% of natural, renewable C-atoms (weighted) all ingredients*

> 85 %

�

�

?

> 95 %> 70 %> 50 %

��

?��

??�

ShampooPerformance

Market Benchmark

AdvancedProduct

ClassicProduct

SuperiorProduct


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• Appearance: transparent• Active matter: 46 %• Oil phase: silicone free• pH: 4.0 – 4.5• Use level: 1.5 – 10 % (weight % product)

PlantasilMicro(1%)

Cognis

Natural modified

From 100 % natural, renewable feedstocks; chemically processed, catalyst or reaction aids used.

PLANTASIL ® MICRONew possibilities for ’green’ conditioning shampoo

Dicaprylyl EtherDecyl GlucosideGlyceryl Oleate

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• Formulation B withPlantasil® Micro

• ‘Green‘benchmark

Significantimprovement

Significantimprovement

• Novel microemulsion for high performanceconditioning shampoos

• 100% vegetable-based raw materials

• Free from ethylene oxide

• Ecocert approved, BDIH approval ongoing

• Easy to handle

• Cold processable

• Crystal clear shampoos

Microemulsion technology for ‘performance in green‘

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Formulations

• High compatibility with SLES/CAPB systems• Easy addition to shampoo formula• Cold process

12% SLES/CAPB

1% Plantasil ® Micro

12% SLES/CAPB


12% SLES/CAPB


12% SLES/CAPB


12% SLES/CAPB


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> 85 %

��

��

��

> 95 %> 70 %> 50 %

��

��

��

Subsegment

Skin Care

PerformanceMarket Benchmark

AdvancedProduct

ClassicProduct

SuperiorProduct

100%

% of natural, renewable C-atoms (weighted) all ingredients*

*All calculations are based on the feedstocks for th e Cognis products; non Cognis raw material calculations are based on public information or best knowledge available; calculations do not consider preservatives, perfume, color and enzymes.

96%


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Viscosity: Brookfield RVF, 25ºC (spindle T-E, 5 rpm with Helipath): 30,000 cpspH Value: 6.6

Water, preservative

Glycerin

Phase II

Xanthan Gum

Cegesoft®

VP

Cegesoft®

PS 6

Cetiol OE®

Myritol®

331

Lanette®

O

Cutina®

GMS-V

Eumulgin®

SG

Phase ISodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Glyceryl Stearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cocglycerides

Dicaprylyl Ether

Vegetable Oil

Vegetable Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (and) Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax

Xanthan Gum

Glycerin

Aqua

0.25

3.0

2.0

2.0

2.0

2.0

2.0

0.2

5.0

q.s

Emulsifier

Consistency factor

Consistency factor

Emollient

Emollient

Emollient

Emollient

Thickener

Moisturizer

Diluent

Ingredients Eco Status INCI Name wt% Function

Basic Green Lotion Formulation Number: US-291-649-196-33

100%*

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Ingredients Eco Status INCI Name wt% Function

Deep Moisturizing Silky CreamFormulation Number: US 338-654-109-13

I. Emulgade ® PL 68/50

Eumulgin ® SG

Cutina ® GMS-V NA

Monomuls ® 90-O18

Cetiol ® OE

Myritol ® 331

Cegesoft ® PFO

Coviox ® T 70 C

Sphingoceryl ® Veg

LS8712

Veegum Ultra

II. Glycerin

Keltrol CG SFT

Water

III. Geogard 221

Herbalia® Soy

Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Glyceryl Stearate

Glyceryl Oleate

Dicaprylyl Ether

Cocoglycerides

Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil

Tocopherol

Octyldodecanol (and) hydrogenated coco-glycerides (and) Helianthus Anuus (sunflower) seed extract

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Glycerin

Xanthan Gum

Water

Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Benzyl Alcohol

Soy Isoflavones

2.0

0.5

2.0

0.5

7.0

5.0

2.0

0.5

2.0

0.5

3.0

0.8

q.s.

1.0

0.1

O/W Cream Base SE

Co-Emulsifier

Consistency Factor

Lipid Layer Enhancer

Emollient

Emollient

Emollient

Acitve

Active

Thickener

Moisturizer

Thickener

Preservative

Active

Viscosity: Brookfield RVF, 23C°(spindled TE, 5rpm, Helipath): 200,000 cpspH Value: 6.1

96%*

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Emollient Selection Criteria

and Formulation Challenges

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Cetiol ® B / ABCetiol ® SenSoftCetiol ® SN

Cetiol ® CCCegesoft ® VP/SBE

Cetiol ® OECetiol ® PGLCetiol ® SB 45 / VEutanol ® GFitoderm ®

Cegesoft ® GPO / PFOCegesoft ® SH

CognisSynthetics

From synthetic feedstocks; chemically processed

Cognis Hybrids

From natural, renewable & synthetic feedstocks; natural & synthetic building blocks are combined in a chemical process.

Cognis Ecohybrids

From natural, renewable & synthetic feedstocks; natural & synthetic building blocks are combined in a chemical process. High share of natural C-atoms

Cognis NaturalModified

From 100% natural, renewable feedstocks; chemically processed, catalyst or reaction aids used

Cognis Naturals

From 100% natural, renewable feedstocks; physically purified by water/alcohol or energy

Cognis Emollient Portfolio TM

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0

25

50

75

100

Cetiol O

E

Cetiol C

C

Cetiol S

enSoft

Cyclomethicone

Dimethicone

1600

Spreading value

1600

1900

mm2/10min

Green Aspect by Chemistry

vario

us

>190

0

Natural based carbon / overallcarbon in a molecule (%)

Cognis Emollient Portfolio TM

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Challenges in Applications

Hair Color

Styling

Conditioner

Shampoo

Body Wash

Color Cosmetic

Personal Care Wipes

Sun Care

AP / DEO

Face / Body Emulsion

100 % Natural

Physically processed

100 % NaturalChemical processedNaturally inspiredApplication

Leav

e-on

rinse

-off

hai

r tr

eatm

ent

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Formulating Green is not a miracle !

Challenges in some applications still exist !

The green trend is a driver for innovation !

How green do you want to be?...It’s your choice !

Conclusion

Cognis Green Chemical Solutions TM

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GREEN TRENDGREEN TRENDDonDon’’t wait any longert wait any longer!!

www.cognis.comwww.labserobio.com

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