course 1 - modern beef production

Masters of Beef Advocacy Course 1: Modern Beef Production Course Introduction: Beef…It’s What’s for Dinner

• Where does beef come from? • Is “natural” beef safer? • Is grass-fed beef more nutritious? • Why do you use antibiotics and hormones to produce beef?

More than ever before, consumers have a lot of questions about their food and beef is no exception. They see cattle grazing in the fields and fresh beef in the meat case but don’t know what happens in that “fuzzy spot” in between. Unfortunately, anti-animal agriculture activist groups exploit this lack of knowledge and thirst for information. They use terms like “factory farming” and “industrial agriculture” as they try to cast modern beef production in a negative light. They want consumers to believe modern beef production is harmful to the environment, cruel to animals and produces unsafe and unhealthy food. You know that’s not true, but what can you do about it? You can answer their questions. You can help connect the consumer to the people who produce their food. You’re the expert. You can put a face on modern beef production. Let’s start with some background on modern beef production. As you know, consumers’ lifestyles and budgets have changed over time and beef production has evolved to meet those needs. For instance, we now provide consumers with grain-finished, grass-fed, certified organic and natural beef products. While each kind of beef offers something different to the consumer, all beef shares one common denominator that continues to spark demand: a safe, wholesome and nutritious meal. What consumers need to know is the range of options in beef products results from the different ways cattle are fed and raised. But what all types of beef have in common is the same safety and nutritional benefits. All beef goes through a rigorous inspection process and is subject to strict government guidelines to ensure the highest level of safety, and all beef choices are a nutrient-rich source of protein, zinc, iron and many other nutrients. This course will provide a brief overview of what consumers need to know about modern beef production and conclude by reviewing the various beef choices available today and what to tell consumers who are weighing their options.

Course 1: Modern Beef Production

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Consumers need to know… • The modern beef production system provides a year-round supply of safe,

wholesome and nutritious beef at an affordable price for consumers around the world.

• All U.S.-raised beef comes from one of the 800,000 American producers whose livelihood dependso n producing a safe, wholesome and nutritious product tailored to the needs of consumers.

• Thanks to the efforts of cattle farmers and ranchers, today’s consumers can choose from a wider selection of beef products than ever before.

• No matter what type of beef you prefer, you can be confident all beef choices are safe, wholesome and nutritious.

Section One: Beef Production While most consumers probably don’t want to actually visit a feedlot or processing plant, they do they want to be confident the beef they serve their family is safe and produced in a responsible manner. There is no better source for consumers to get their information on beef production than from the people who actually produce it. So what’s the best way to explain modern beef production to the average consumer? You can use the information in this section to help you provide simple, straightforward information. How big is the U.S. beef industry? Cattle and beef production represent the largest single segment of American agriculture. In fact, USDA says more farms are classified as beef cattle operations (35%) than any other type. U.S. beef comes from one of the 800,000 American producers whose livelihoods depend on producing a safe, wholesome and nutritious product tailored to the needs of consumers. Most cattle farms and ranches are family owned and operated and for many producers, raising cattle is a family tradition passed down through generations. Producers nationwide are responsible for more than 100 million head of beef cattle, though most cattle operations are smaller than most people might think. According to USDA, the typical herd averages just 40 head of cattle. How are cattle raised? Cow-calf operation Most beef calves are born on cow-calf operations. These are farms and ranches like people see along highways and country roads. During this stage, cattle graze


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in herds on large pastures within sight of their mothers. As calves reach six to 10 months of age, they are weaned from their mothers. Weaned and castrated male calves (called steers) may graze until about one year old and then their sold to a cattle feeder or a stocker/backgrounder who will prepare the animal for the feedlot. Stockers and backgrounding As weanlings, cattle may be transferred from cow-calf operations to backgrounders or stockers. Like cow-calf operations, these are mostly family-owned ranches and farms where cattle graze on pasture or start receiving grain to supplement their diet. Once most cattle reach approximately 12-18 months, they are taken to a feedlot. Life at the feedlot Feedlots look different than cow-calf and backgrounding operations because cattle do not graze on pasture. Instead, they are usually separated into groups of 100 animals and live in pens that allow about 125 to 250 square feet of room per animal. Cattle usually spend four to six months in a feedlot, during which they are fed a scientifically formulated ration averaging 70 percent to 90 percent grain. They also have constant access to water. Environmental factors such as water quality, air quality and land utilization are monitored and managed in feedlots daily. Operators are not only responsible for constantly monitoring the health and well-being of cattle, but also for protecting the environment. In fact, most large feedlots have environmental engineers on staff or on contract to ensure the operation is in compliance with the strict Environmental Protection Agency regulations that govern concentrated animal feeding operations. Transportation Once cattle have reached 18 to 22 months of age or weigh between 1,100 and 1,250 pounds, they are typically considered “finished.” They are then transported to packing plants to be harvested and processed. Cattle are carefully loaded and unloaded into trailers that are specially designed to avoid injury and strain. A variety of precautions are taken during transportation minimize stress and injury to the animals. Arriving at the packing plant When cattle arrive at packing plants, they are moved inside in a quiet and orderly manner. There is little excess movement or unnecessary noise so cattle are not unduly stressed. Packing plant technicians then use a mechanical stunning device to quickly and effectively render animals unconscious. The harvest process has evolved over the years to ensure both humane animal treatment and the production of safe food. The Humane Slaughter Act (passed in


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1958 and updated in 1978 and 2002) dictates strict animal handling and slaughtering standards for packing plants. The Food Safety and Inspection Service (FSIS) observes federally-inspected facilities to ensure compliance with all regulations. Fabrication When beef leaves the packing plant it is in large sections called primals or subprimals. Primals include the chuck, round, rib, and loin. Subprimals are smaller cuts of meat such as the bottom round, top round, eye of round and round tip. Some plants sell subprimals to meat processing facilities where workers break them down into individual steaks and roasts that are sent to supermarkets and restaurants. Supermarkets and restaurants Once beef reaches retailers and foodservice operators who sell beef products in supermarkets and restaurants, additional steps are taken to ensure safety and quality. Ultimately, consumers dictate the actions of the beef production chain, from pasture to plate, by determining what kinds of beef they will buy and at what price. For instance, beef cattle are now much leaner than just a decade ago because of consumer demand for products with less fat. That’s why there are now 29 cuts of beef that meet government guidelines for lean, including some of our favorite cuts like tenderloin, sirloin and 95% lean ground beef. But that’s the subject for another course: beef nutrition. To complete the modern beef production story, let’s take a look at the choices of beef available to today’s consumer… Section Two: Beef Choices When it comes to beef, most consumers tell us that taste is their highest priority. However, a growing number of consumers are interested in buying beef that has been produced under very specific conditions, like organic or grass-fed beef. Consumers may look to you to explain the key differences between the different choices of beef. This gives you an opportunity to emphasize that no matter what type of beef consumers choose, they can be confident all beef choices are safe, wholesome and nutritious. Following are brief snapshots explaining the key differences between various beef choices. While you’re probably familiar with various production methods, it’s beneficial to think about beef choices from the consumers' perspective.


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So think about what’s on their minds. What would you want to know about the beef you buy in the store? What does natural mean? What’s the difference between natural and organic? Don’t all cattle eat grass? Grain-finished (conventional) beef Grain-finished, also known as conventional or grain-fed, is the most widely produced kind of beef in the United States. This is the product most consumers see in the meat case at the supermarket. Grain-finished beef assures a consistent, year-round supply of high quality beef with the tenderness and flavor most consumers prefer. Grain-finished beef cattle spend most of their lives in range or pasture conditions eating grass. At 12 to 18 months of age, grain-finished cattle are moved to a feedlot where they receive a carefully balanced diet. This feeding period typically lasts between four and six months. The cattle are fed a scientifically formulated ration of 70 percent to 90 percent concentrate. Concentrates may be grain such as corn or barley, or they can be high energy, high fiber co-products that result from processing grains for human use. Natural beef The definition of “natural” beef can confuse some consumers. According to the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), natural means that a product is minimally processed and contains no additives. By this definition, most beef in the meat case is natural. Many companies are raising beef under “natural” production practices. Common “natural” production claims include, “raised without hormones,” “raised without antibiotics,” “free range” and “vegetarian fed.” Since the definition of “natural” production practices can vary, it is important for consumers to read labels carefully to understand what a particular company means when it says “natural.” Grass-fed beef Consumers typically don't know that all cattle spend the majority of their lives eating grass in pastures. However, grass-fed cattle (also known as grass-finished) eat only a grass and forage-based diet throughout their whole lifespan. In North America it’s difficult to produce grass-fed beef in large due to limited growing seasons. That’s why most grass-finished beef is imported from Australia and New Zealand where grass grows all year.


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Grass-finished beef is often described as having a distinct taste and may require different preparation methods, including marinades and shorter cooking times. Certified organic beef Certified organic beef must meet USDA’s National Organic Program standards. Organically-raised cattle must be fed 100 percent organic feed, and they may not be given hormones to promote growth or antibiotics for any reason. Certified organic beef can be grain-fed or grass-finished. USDA states organically produced food is no safer or more nutritious than conventionally produced foods. Organic food differs only in the way it is grown, not how it's handled and processed. Like many organic products, organic beef is more expensive to produce, which results in higher prices than other beef choices in the meat case. If consumers take away just one thing about beef choices, it should be that regardless of the type of beef they choose, they can be confident the beef they buy is safe, wholesome and nutritious. Section Three: Antibiotics and Growth Promotants You probably already know that the use of antibiotics and growth promotants are among the most controversial issues surrounding modern beef production. Unfortunately, there has been a lot of misinformation that has led to a great deal of consumer confusion on these very issues, but you can help consumers understand why and how beef producers use antibiotics and growth promotants to care for cattle. Treating Sick Cattle with Antibiotics The primary day-to-day concern for all cattle producers is the health and well-being of their animals. Advances in technology allow beef producers and veterinarians to treat and prevent illnesses more effectively than ever before. Antibiotics, also known as antimicrobials, are medications that fight bacterial infections. Antibiotics made specifically for cattle are used to help an animal regain or maintain superior health and produce safe beef.

Producers and veterinarians take great care to promptly diagnose illnesses in cattle. When they need to they treat them with the correct type and amount of medication, so they are providing the most efficient treatment and getting the animal back to good health quickly.


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Antibiotics used in beef production must go through a rigorous testing process before being approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to assure the safety of cattle as well as beef products entering the food supply. FDA has developed an approval process that stringently manages antibiotic use and specifically monitors for potential resistance. This system helps protect human health while giving veterinarians and beef producers the tools needed to keep animals healthy. The U.S. government mandates that no beef with antibiotic residues that exceed strict FDA standards be allowed in the food supply.

Growth Promotants Lead to Leaner Beef America’s cattle producers have safely used growth promotants for nearly 60 years to produce the lean beef consumers demand while using fewer resources, like land and feed. These production technologies sometimes referred to as growth hormones or steroids, help cattle efficiently convert their feed into more pounds of lean muscle. Most growth promotants are used to supplement existing hormones or compensate for missing hormones in an animal’s body. The hormones in growth promotants are metabolized or used by the animal’s body before it goes to harvest. Although these products vary in active ingredients and dose, they generally work by discouraging protein depletion and encouraging protein synthesis in cattle so they can gain more lean muscle from less feed. Growth promotants typically are administered through a small pellet, called an implant, which is placed under the skin on the back of an animal’s ear. They can also be administered through an animal’s feed. The safety of growth promoting products used in cattle production is assured through several layers of requirements, which are enforced by multiple government agencies. First, growth promotants are required to go through a comprehensive, multi-step scientific review process to ensure animal health and food safety. More than 500 different studies have been conducted on growth-promoting products and submitted as part of this stringent approval process. If approved, these products are then re-evaluated by FDA annually and only remain in the marketplace if they are still proven safe. In addition, USDA’s Food Safety and Inspection Service (FSIS) tests beef for growth promotant residues at harvest to ensure compliance with FDA-established safe levels. FSIS has conducted testing since 1967, and the most recent data show zero residue violations for growth promotants in cattle.


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Course Review: The Checkout Line The modern beef production system gives consumers a year-round supply of consistent, high-quality beef for consumers at every price point. Beef producers at every level of the production process take seriously their responsibility to provide safe and wholesome food for America’s dinner tables. With so many new terms in the meat case, it's beneficial for consumers to have a basic understanding of the different options available. The great news for consumers is that all U.S. beef, regardless of type or brand, shares the same popular characteristics that put it at the center of the dinner plate: taste, nutrition and safety. As a reminder, consumers need to know:

• The modern beef production system provides a year-round supply of safe,

wholesome and nutritious beef at an affordable price for consumers around the world.

• All U.S. beef comes from one of the 800,000 American producers whose livelihoods depend on producing a safe, wholesome and nutritious product tailored to the needs of consumers.

• Thanks to the efforts of cattle farmers and ranchers, consumers today can choose from a wider selection of beef products than ever before.

• No matter what type of beef you prefer, you can be confident all beef choices are safe, wholesome and nutritious.

Homework It’s now time to apply your general knowledge and what you learned in this course to complete a homework assignment. Assignment: Practice being an advocate for Modern Beef Production First, please read the news article posted below. You will see several comments from readers after the article, where they express their thoughts and opinions. This is an effective method of helping to get the true story out about beef. Please draft a similar comment. We’re not asking you to actually post the comment – we’ll go into more detail about that in another course. But consider your thoughts and opinions about what has been written and offer a concise response of no more than 50 words.


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What's your beef? Posted by Leslie Cole, The Oregonian, February 17, 2009

Grass fed? Grain finished? Organic? Free-range? How do you know, and what does it mean?

When I read the press release, something didn't seem right: At a taste test conducted by Oregon State University, Portland elementary and middle school students compared hamburgers made from grass-fed beef and grain-fed beef. And there was no clear winner.

What? Two burgers, one from a grass-fed animal, the other -- perhaps more familiar to most kids -- from an animal fattened up on grain, and the kids didn't prefer one over the other? Maybe that's because they

While the press release used the term grass-fed, it also talked about how the cattle ate grain for part of their lives. Seems the writer was a bit confused, as were the several news services that picked up the story and ran it without question. Does a muddle about a PR message really matter to anyone? Yes, indeed, because it's further evidence of the rampant confusion about so-called "green" food in the marketplace.

Plenty of consumers are looking for more healthful, responsibly raised beef and are willing to pay a premium for it, but they may not be buying what they think they're buying. Is it organic? Grass-fed? And do any of these "green" terms really mean that the cow led a happy life frolicking in a local farmer's field?

Thanks to confusing marketing terms, we might think we know, but often we don't.

The problem is this: Most labels are vague or oversimplified, and the terms are widely misunderstood. Restaurant menus and well-meaning butchers consistently make mistakes, which doesn't help.

The confusion certainly isn't slowing the growth of this segment of the beef market -- the brands touting "healthy practices" are booming these days. While "healthy" beef still is only about 3 percent of total U.S. beef sold, it's growing in volume and value by about 30 percent a year, including in Oregon.

Witness Country Natural Beef (formerly known as Oregon Country Beef), which started in 1986 with 14 eastern Oregon ranches and now encompasses more than 100 cattle ranching members as far away as New Mexico, Hawaii and North Dakota. Premium "natural" meat brands such as California's Niman Ranch have been so successful that stores including Whole Foods Market, Trader Joe's and New Seasons now offer similar house brands, which use the term "natural" on their labels ... implying something, but what?

"I think it comes down to the consumer understanding what they're purchasing," says Gabrielle Homer, an executive for Painted Hills Natural Beef in Fossil. "We want them to get what they want."

So do we. School is in session. LESSON NO. 1 All beef is grass-fed, but very little is true "grass-fed beef." That's because all cattle eat grass, at least for the first few months of life. But to call a steak "grass-fed" and comply with the American Grassfed Association and the USDA Agricultural


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Marketing Service's official definition, the animal must only eat mother's milk, grass or hay for its entire life. This takes more time, and more land, so relatively few folks are doing it.

By comparison, most U.S. mass-produced beef cattle leave the pasture by 6 months of age to live out their lives in a feed yard or feedlot, where they're fattened up quickly on high-calorie grain. So-called "naturally raised" beef is a hybrid: They spend more of their lives on the range, but at 14 months of age, they, too, head to a feedlot to eat grain for three to six months; this allows for more-marbled meat, producers say.

It's up to you to decide which you prefer, but here are three questions to ask if you want true grass-fed beef: Did the animal eat any grain? Was it 100 percent grass-fed? Was it grass-finished, or grain-finished (translation: What did it eat during those final months of fattening)? LESSON NO. 2 Most grass-fed beef lives out its life on the range, but some goes to a feed yard (where it eats hay, not grain). "The thing people want when they get grass-fed beef is that bucolic cow on green grass," says Carrie Oliver, whose Oliver Ranch Web site (www.oliverranch.com) is dedicated to preaching truths about artisan beef and steering shoppers to top producers. "(A feed yard) is not necessarily bad," Oliver says. "It's just not what people expect." LESSON NO. 3 "Natural" means nothing. Love the idea of cattle romping in open pastures and munching on special, additive-free grains? "Natural" doesn't get you there. On food packaging, "natural" simply means the meat product contains no artificial ingredients, and that it was minimally processed. In other words, the steak wasn't pumped up with a sodium solution to make it more tender.

"Naturally raised," on the other hand, indicates a set of practices ranchers and beef companies have followed with their beef cattle. But exactly what it means depends on the brand.

"Right now the majority of claims on naturally raised animal products are defined by the individual company," says Billy Cox, spokesman for the USDA's agricultural marketing service. "It depends on the company what their definition of 'natural' is. That's confused a lot of people in the marketplace."

Under most brands, it means no hormones given to animals, no antibiotics and an all-vegetarian diet. Ranchers supply documentation and sign affidavits to become part of such groups as Country Natural Beef or Niman Ranch, and USDA has the authority to audit the paperwork.

A nationwide standard is on the way: USDA just wrote rules, though they're not yet in effect, outlining requirements for using the term "naturally raised." To use the marketing claim, producers must raise animals without added hormones and most antibiotics, and feed 100 percent vegetarian rations (no animal proteins).

One thing that lots of "green" beef eaters don't know is that most "naturally raised" animals spend three to six months in feedlots, which are thought by many to be a source of environmental, worker-safety and animal welfare problems. But again, the picture is nuanced.

Oregon's midsize operations have more space per cow and better living conditions for animals than the industry norm. Betty Fussell, author of the new book "Raising Steaks" (see accompanying story), spent time at dozens of feedlots around the nation, including Beef Northwest Feeders in Boardman, and concludes that those "in the right location and on the right scale can be run humanely and soundly. If they are not an ideal way to fatten cows, neither are


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they in themselves the devil's work. The details matter." LESSON NO. 4 There are no, or few, guarantees. Proponents of organic food scored a huge victory when USDA's national organic program passed, with uniform standards for producers and certifying agents verifying producers' claims.

But guess what? Most "naturally raised" beef -- the lion's share of the green market -- isn't certified by an outside party. Despite the pending USDA regulation governing the term "naturally raised," producers only need submit adequate paperwork to make the claim -- there's no requirement for third-party verification.

Beef producers can pay for certification with inspections by independent groups, such as the Portland-based Food Alliance, or Humane Farm Animal Care, but many opt not to because of the cost.

That doesn't mean ranchers are trying to break the rules; in fact, it's in their best interest to pursue practices that keep animals and the land healthy.

"There are all these people who are trying to scratch out a living in central and eastern Oregon," says Brett Meisner, sales consultant with SP Provisions, which sells Cascade Natural Beef, a brand that works with about 10 Oregon and Washington ranches. "They're doing great stuff, and they don't get credit for it."

If you're skeptical, do some homework. Go to a farmers market and talk to a rancher. Check out the Web sites. Call and ask questions. LESSON NO. 5 Beef is like wine. Finally, let's not make assumptions about taste. Beef is much more complex than marbling, natural or organic.

"It's a heckuva lot more like wine," says Oliver, who hosts blind tastings of artisan beef for groups around the country. "There are other things that influence taste besides marbling."

Breed, diet, stress on animals, regional differences and aging have much to do with taste, which can be all over the spectrum, and all still good.

One common misconception is that grass-finished beef is too lean to taste good. "If it's been well-raised and aged well, you can have absolutely delicious, full-flavored meat," Oliver says. "And I think that surprises people."

Oliver suggests looking past vagaries on the label, doing your homework and finding producers you can trust.

In the conventional cattle system, it's all about marbling (USDA grade) and yield. Now that we have more beef options, we should explore them, even if it means doing a little more work to find what you want.

"The truth is, there's a lot of natural variety," Oliver says. "If we can find a way to celebrate that, we'll be better off."


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What's in a name?

Here's what Oregon's best-known naturally raised beef producers have to say:

Country Natural Beef (formerly Oregon Country Beef): Pasture-raised, grain-finished for 90 days, USDA grade high Select/low Choice. Cooperative with around 100 members, started in 1986 with 14 ranches in Oregon. Only animals born and raised on members' ranches are part of program. No animal products in feed, no antibiotics or hormones given to animals. Certified by Food Alliance, independent third party that has standards for animal welfare, sustainable farming and fair labor practices.

Painted Hills Natural Beef: Pasture-raised, grain-finished (corn, alfalfa, barley for 4 to 5 months before processing), USDA Choice beef. Owners of seven Wheeler County ranches manage program, which markets cattle from about 70 Oregon and Washington and Idaho ranches. No animal products in feed, no antibiotics or hormones given to animals. Angus or Angus-cross animals; ownership maintained through processing.

Cascade Natural Beef: Pasture-raised, grain-finished. Private label started by Portland meat distributor SP Provisions about five years ago. Works with 10 Northwest ranches, who sign affidavits to participate in program. Angus or Angus-cross cattle, wet aged at least 21 days. Small size of program allows for greater quality control, sales associate Brett Meisner says.

Strawberry Mountain Natural Beef: Founded in 2005 by John Day rancher Darrel Holliday. Beef comes from more than 20 ranches, pasture-raised, grain-finished for 90-120 days. Angus or Angus-cross, USDA Choice grade. Among the few programs that dry ages its beef, aged 14 to 21 days. Ground meat products get more e-coli testing at plant than what USDA specifies.

What do the labels mean? Here are commonly accepted definitions of terms found on meat labels.

To learn more about what's behind specific brands or certification programs, check Consumer Reports' eco-labels center: www.greenerchoices.org/eco-labels

Grass-fed: Though all cows eat grass for a portion of their lives, true grass-fed beef eats only grass or hay for the duration of its life. For ranchers who rear cattle on grass, it's not just about food, it's a philosophy, encompassing range management and holistic raising of animals. Asking for "grass-finished" or "all grass fed" is the best way to find this type of beef.

Grass-fed, grain-finished: Common practice for "naturally raised" beef, where cattle spend up to a year on pasture before going to a feed yard to eat corn or another vegetarian ration for fattening and extra marbling.

Naturally raised: Implies no hormones added to feed, no antibiotics administered and 100 percent vegetarian feed, and that cattle had access to pasture for a bigger portion of its life than commercial beef.

Organic beef: Beef that grazes on pasture that's certified organic and eats only certified organic grains. You won't find much Certified Organic beef at the meat counter, partly because of the shortage and expense of organic grain and the cost of certification, which some producers don't want to shoulder or pass on to customers.

http://www.greenerchoices.org/eco-labels


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Free-range: A term usually applied to poultry. The corollary for cattle is "pasture-raised," meaning livestock spends many months on pasture, as opposed to conventional beef that spends much of its life in confined feeding operations.

Vegetarian diet: Feeding rations did not contain ground-up animal parts.

No antibiotics, no added hormones: Antibiotics and growth hormones are feed additives in conventional beef operations. If this is your issue, ask producers if theirs is a "never, never" program, meaning the animal hasn't been given growth enhancers or antibiotics at any point in its life. Some programs interpret "none" as nothing given 120 days before slaughter. USDA Prime, Choice, Select: A measure of intramuscular fat or marbling, with Prime having the most, Select the least.

Dry aged: The traditional process of placing a whole carcass in a refrigerated room and allowing enzymes to break down muscle fibers and develop flavor. Done by only a handful of producers and butchers.

Wet aged: Beef vacuum-packed in heavy plastic held at 34 to 38 degrees for seven to 28 days. Meat becomes more tender, but flavor isn't as concentrated as with dry aging. Author sees some 'good guys' in cattle industry Food writer Betty Fussell knows beef and all its contradictions. The woman who describes herself as a "mad carnivore" spent months visiting stock shows and rodeos, talking with meat scientists and cattlemen (including Oregon's own Doc and Connie Hatfield, founders of Country Natural Beef), and getting to know environmentalists and feedlot operators.

The result is "Raising Steaks: The Life and Times of American Beef" (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, $26, 416 pages), an engaging read in which Fussell takes on the history, science and politics of beef.

We recently spoke with Fussell by phone about the growth of the green movement in beef, and the enduring confusion about brands, labels and claims.

Now that "natural" beef is more widely available, you see lots of labels with different claims, from grass-fed to vegetarian-fed to sustainably raised. How to choose?

The problem is there are so many elements involved: Niman Ranch was never grass-finished; Country Natural was never grass-finished. (Instead), they were concentrating on humane practices, small ranches, small feedlots. They were the opposite of the great big four (U.S. meat processors/packers).

I think they're all good guys, because they're very responsible toward their animals and what they're doing.

What happens when "natural" beef marketing cooperatives, such as Niman Ranch or Country Natural Beef, grow? Can they become too large to be accountable for their practices and cattle?

How to square the business model for growth with small and local and regional? That's a problem.


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More ranchers want to come in (under a "natural beef" label) because it's a good thing (for profits). Then you have to supply your suppliers. Then someone like Whole Foods gets interested. Then they really have to keep expanding. So where's the control? It's hard to maintain.

Talk to me about feedlots or feed yards, where cattle go to be fattened up before slaughter. Is there such a thing as a "good" feedlot?

There is to me. There isn't to Michael Pollan (author of "The Omnivore's Dilemma") or Eric Schlosser (author of "Fast Food Nation"). I'm not a purist on this. I've seen some small-scale feedlots where things are being done well. It is the enormously big feedlots where you have 100,000 or 200,000 head ... that's not good for anyone.

There are a whole lot of (beef producers) that grew up kind of naturally, like Harris Ranch, the family-owned companies where everything is local, well-managed, family-owned. I hate the big generalizations. What's the greenest beef of all?

The green-minded shopper should look for beef that's grass-finished and humanely cared for. It's the whole package.

When a meat package says things like "no antibiotics, no hormones," or "pasture raised," can I assume it to be true?

You can't just trust the name. The name is the brand. You have to know more than that. Bill Niman (founder of Niman Ranch) sold the brand last fall. He's out of it. This is not unusual. This is the way our publicity machinery has worked for a century, so why should we trust brands?

The buyer needs to investigate. Spend time looking around. Be skeptical. Go to your local farmers market. Talk to ranchers, talk to growers. See who you like. Look at the Internet. Try to find out for yourself.

READER COMMENTS (7) Post a comment Posted by lcole on 02/17/09 at 11:49AM

Where to buy natural beef for less?

Janet e-mailed me today asking where she can find naturally raised beef at lower prices than what supermarkets charge. She's looking for information on buying cooperatives, bulk purchasing from small ranches, etc. Here's my two cents: www.eatwild.com can lead you to grass-fed producers in the region who sell direct and in bulk. Farmers Markets are another great place to meet ranchers who sell naturally raised beef by the quarter or half. Any other ideas to share?

Posted by mossbackfarm on 02/17/09 at 12:29PM

Thanks for this article. I wrote a critique of this study a while back (www.mossbackfarm.com/2009/01/flawed-grassfed-beef-study), so it's nice to see you clarifying the issue. As a grassfed, grass finished beef producer, it's very frustrating to see competitors jump on the bandwagon without doing the work to create quality.

http://www.oregonlive.com/foodday/index.ssf/2009/02/whats_your_beef.html#2732469



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We sell beef by the quarter, and while it can seem like a lot of meat, some of our customers with smaller families go in with neighbors, and inevitably they're the ones who run out early and wish they would have bought more :).

Cheers,

Rich Mossback Farm LLC Yamhill, OR www.mossbackfarm.com

Posted by mossbackfarm on 02/17/09 at 12:32PM

Thanks for this article. I wrote a critique of this study a while back (www.mossbackfarm.com/2009/01/flawed-grassfed-beef-study), so it's nice to see you clarifying the issue. As a grassfed, grass finished beef producer, it's very frustrating to see competitors jump on the bandwagon without doing the work to create quality.

We sell beef by the quarter, and while it can seem like a lot of meat, some of our customers with smaller families go in with neighbors, and inevitably they're the ones who run out early and wish they would have bought more :).

Cheers,

Rich Mossback Farm LLC Yamhill, OR www.mossbackfarm.com

Posted by umcvittie on 02/18/09 at 10:34AM

I was very glad to see this topic featured in FOODday. I work in the industry and often must wrangle with just these questions. Until USDA regulations catch up and truly inform the consumer, educational pieces such as this are crucial.

I also wanted to mention that the "What's in a name?" portion of the article neglected to mention that Strawberry Mountain Natural Beef cattle receive no hormones, no antibiotics and are fed no animal byproducts.

Ursula McVittie Nicky USA, Inc.

Posted by wistfulmist on 02/19/09 at 3:04PM

Our small farm is another local business specializing in grass fed and grass-finished beef. We have a great product but it's not always easy to find customers because we operate mostly via word-of-mouth. The small farms can't compete with the large advertising budgets of the larger farms and/or those that sell through commercial retailers.

If you're interested in purchasing a better-tasting beef that's been raised locally on mother's milk, grass, or hay, check out our website at wistfulmistfarm.com or email us as [email protected].





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Posted by blackbelly73 on 02/20/09 at 2:34PM

The Science News article suggesting that all meat eating should be eliminated in favor of all soy was a really upsetting article. Anti-livestock tactics are getting pretty brazen. Manure, for instance, is only a toxic waste substance when it's mismanaged, as in factory farming. In a healthy pasture, it is returned to the earth to feed the soil biota that feed the grass plants which unplowed, sequester vast amounts of CO2. More than trees. Enough it has been said, that if 6 million acres of corn - or shall we say soy - was returned to managed grazing, we wouldn't have a CO2 problem anymore. How can soy be put up as an alternative when it is GMO, blasted with insecticides and herbicides, and requires the soil to be plowed and plowed and plowed, releasing CO2 into the atmosphere and killing soil life? Agricultural practices such as growing soybeans are responsible for sapping the soil of minerals required to build complete nutrition for humans. When were soybeans exempted from the use of fertilizers? In the best grassfed operations - those that exist in the right climates, on the right soils, cycling of nutrients is done by the correct management of the animals and only a smattering of minerals should be called for to replace what the grass and animals take out. Soil biota can completely "disappear" a cow pat in three days, in a healthy pasture. "Trampling" - this is called "herd effect" and "mob grazing" in modern grassfeeding parlance - was responsible for building the vast fertile plains in the days of the bison herds. Trampling is not understood by science writers that don't know how to manage it for good ecological effect. Lack of herd effect is largely responsible for the desertification of much of the planet's vital grass lands. The government can prescribe how much "Crude Protein" is required in an animal's diet, but doesn't know how much of each amino acid - which is what protein is - the animal needs. Crude protein is just a measure of nitrogen. Somebody doesn't necessarily want us eating less beef - they want us eating more soybeans. More GMO, more pesticides, more herbicides, more soil-killing chemical fertilizers. Grassfed flies in the face of all that. When the animal is a healthy, well managed grassfed animal, there is no need for any pharmaceuticals. Grassfed is just bad for Big Ag - it has nothing to do with some horrific "carbon footprint." If you want carbon foot print, ship iceberg lettuce in plastic baggies from Salinas to New York city. Then make a tuna salad from any commercial brand - they all now contain soy and pyrophosphate, whatever that is. Soy - in canned tuna!!!

Barb Lee

Posted by woodtick6 on 02/20/09 at 8:24PM

I have helped set up landowner cooperatives to assist with the sale of farm produce from a group of landowners. There are similar efforts across the country that deal with most goods produced on the land where a group gets together to market their own product rather than rely on the general markets. If anyone is interested, please contact Leslie. I have sent her my contact information.




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Sharing Your Story: What I want consumers to know…

Please complete the following sentences in your own words. 1. I am proud to be a beef producer because… 2. The one thing I want consumers to know about modern beef production is… 3. Producing safe, wholesome and nutritious beef is important to me and my

family because… 4. Providing consumers a variety of beef choices is important because… Modern Beef Production Quiz

1. Select the BEST answer: The modern beef production system provides a year-round supply of __________, _________ and _______ beef at an affordable price for consumers around the world.

a. Natural, organic, grass-fed b. Safe, wholesome, nutritious c. Lean, red, well-marbled d. A and C

2. Roughly how many beef producers are working in American today? a. 200,000 b. 20,000 c. 800,000 d. 100,000

3. True or false? Cattle and beef production represents the largest single segment of American agriculture.

True False

4. What is the typical size of a U.S. herd? a. 40 head of cattle b. 75 head of cattle c. 100 head of cattle d. 250 head of cattle

5. With regard to feedlots, which of the following is NOT true? a. Each animal has 125-250 square feet b. Cattle are fed a scientifically formulated ration c. Operators monitor the animals’ health and well-being d. Animals have access to water only twice a day when fed e. Large feedlots have environmental engineers


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6. How do beef choices differ from each other? a. Safety of the product b. Nutritional profile and value c. Country of origin d. How the beef was raised

7. How does the fat content of beef differ from 10 years ago? a. Leaner b. About the same c. Less lean

8. Which of the following beef choices is the safest and most nutritious? a. Grain-fed b. Grass-finished c. Certified organic d. Natural/branded e. All of the above

9. Which of the following is NOT a USDA standard of certified organic beef? a. Organically raised cattle must be fed 100 percent organic feed, but

may be provided certain vitamin and mineral supplements b. Organically raised cattle may not be given hormones to promote

growth c. Organically raised cattle may not be given antibiotics d. Organically raise cattle may not have grain in their diet

10. True or false? Growth promotants and antibiotics pass through the animal’s system prior to harvest.

True False

course 1 - modern beef production

Documents

scientifically formulated ration

largest single segment

modern beef production

natural production practices

nutritious product tailored

certified organic beef

country natural beef

organically raised cattle