PRESS KIT

PRESS CONTACTJULIETTE SEBILLE

J.SEBILLE @ CUIRAPARIS.COM

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PRESSKIT

EXHIBITORS, FORUMS, EVENTS, TRENDS

PRESS CONTACTJULIETTE SEBILLE

J.SEBILLE @ CUIRAPARIS.COM

AW15/16TRENDS AW 15/16 © AGENCE POLYPHÈME FORUM INCUBE © RFBG CONSEILTRANSLATION © LANGUEDOC TRANSLATION

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4 THE SHOW4 THE SHOW

5 THE SHOW IN FIGURES

6 FASHION6 TRENDS AW15/167 MORE & MORE8 MORE ECCENTRICITY10 MORE NEURONS12 MORE MYSTERY14 MORE CUDDLES16 MORE INSOLENCE18 MORE PERMANENCE20 COLOUR RANGE

21 EVENTS22 INCUBE23 THE INNOVATIONS

25 BESPOKE26 LAËTITIA FORTIN 27 ATELIER FRÉMY28 JULIETTE ARNAULT

29 CRAFT THE LEATHER30 EXHIBITION

CONTENT

THESHOW

THE SHOW P.4 > P.5

THE SHOW IN FIGURES

THE SHOW 5

THE SHOW

THE SHOWIN FIGURES

BREAKDOWN % BY COUNTRY

THE TOP THREE54 Italy | 15,5 France | 9,5 Spain

13,5 OTHER EUROPEAN COUNTRIESTurkey, Portugal, Germany, Netherlands, England, Belgium, Iceland, Denmark, Switzerland, Greece, Sweden

7,5 OTHER INTERNATIONAL COUNTRIESUnited States, South Africa, New Zealand, Brazil, Chili, Singapore, Tunisia, India, Pakistan

BREAKDOWN % BY SECTOR

55,5 Finished Leathers8 Textiles and Synthetics7,5 Components7 Exotic Leathers7 Furs5 Leather Garments4 Services, Press, Associations3,5 Raw hides and Skins2,5 Chemicals

432 EXHIBITORS23 COUNTRIES

T R EN D

STRENDS P.6> P.20

7MORE&MORE

M O R E&

M O R E

FASHION TRENDS AW 15/16

WHERE WE SEE THAT: TOO MUCH OF A GOOD THING CAN BE TRULY WONDERFUL

MOVE AWAY FROM MINIMALISM, COMPLICATIONS, RESTRAINT, MODESTY AND DISCRETION AND DARE TO SHOW OFF YOUR EXPERTISE, DREAMS,INSOLENCE, EMPATHY, AND THUS YOUR CREATIVITY.GIVE MORE, DEMAND MORE, SHOW MORE, FORGET YOUR FEARS, BE PROACTIVE RATHER THAN SUBMISSIVE.ACCEPT CHALLENGES,BE PROUD OF BEING RICH OR POOR, YOUNG OR OLD, HANDSOME OR UGLY,AND LOSE YOUR INHIBITIONS.FAVOUR DENSITY AND QUALITY, TAKE CONCEPTS TO THEIR LIMITS.ACCEPT THE GRANDIOSE, THE MAGNIFICENT, THE SUMPTUOUS,CELEBRATE.

LOVE YOURSELF!

FASHION

ECCENTRICITY 8

TRENDS AW 15/16

MORE ECCENTRICITY

Colours are violent or sombre, shot through with a bolt of electric orange, a theatrical purplish pink, intimately linked by the scratches of golden claws.

Where we embellishWe invent a fashion where extravagance embracesexcess with humour and dandyism.A facetious baroque that flirts with art andtransformism. We err with delight towards poor taste, revel in decors dripping with humour,fantasise over vampires with diamond-pointed teeth.

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FASHION

ECCENTRICITY 9

TRENDS AW 15/16

EnrichMaterials are not to be outdone and are luxurious and surprising.They combine prints and ornaments and accept additions of all kind.Leathers are shimmering and glistening, velvety, printed, embroidered and decorated.Embroideries, hand paintings or multi-material patches embellish skins that are often designed as one-off items.Furs are flamboyant, crazy and ostentatious.

SAGA FURS - COLORTEX - ISISI - TEINTURIERS DE PARIS - FEDI SILVANO - BONAUDO

SPIRIT OFMATERIALS

10NEURONS

TRENDS AW 15/16FASHION

Where we adapt“It’s time to challenge,” time to reinvent oneself.The travelling spirit gives rise to a lifestyleof mobility. Agitated by a desire for community and driven by the longing to build a sharing society, we throw design, art and fashion together in a large container.We will find our “home sweet home” there, but it’s a work in progress with multi-purpose furniture, nomadic objects, transformable clothing, versatile bags, take your home with you like a snail.

Colours are single blocks,

travellers indivisible fromthe materials;

truck grey and pneumatic taupe

are underlined by dock green and container red.

MORE NEURONS

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NEURONS 11

TRENDS AW 15/16

InnovateMaterials are consistent, voluminous and flexible as if created by Dunlop and produced by Goodyear.They are “intelligent,” dense and compact, supple and rubbery, more than matt, honeycombed and foam-like.We will juxtapose neoprene and ultra-fine skins, associate felts and soft grains. Pleats and creases are a pretext for building blocks, for designing landscapes. We invent new processes to try out unusual and savvy pairings, luxurious agglomerations, new composites.

SPIRIT OFMATERIALS

SOYDAN - MUHAMMAD SHAFI TANNERIES - ISISI - CONCERIA TREND - MEGISSERIE LAURET

FASHION

MYSTERY 12

TRENDS AW 15/16

Sibylline colours are deep or transparent;dreary seaweed, blackened blood, spongy yellow, crab meat.

Where we fantasiseThe place we would like to be does not exist.We dream of discovering the ultimate remote locations, embarking on abyssal or space tourism, inventing a phantasmagorical world.“Another World” where the beautiful meets the strange, a world of amphibious beings.Life is a dream, where we descend to the depths of the Earth, or we drift weightlessly in the cumuli of limbo.

MORE MYSTERY

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FASHION

MYSTERY 13

TRENDS AW 15/16

AstonishMaterials are inspired by the depths of the oceans, scratched from the earth’s crust, glistening, reflective, changeable, random.Materials in flux, strange moulds. Warped and battered surfaces are imperfectly emerised.Undulating mother-of-pearl, freshwater pearls, articulated scales.A reverberating mineral aspect.Stones from lagoons covered in sticky seaweed.Beetle shells, the skeletons of freshwater fish.Textures are murky, sticky, gummy.

SPIRIT OFMATERIALS

NOVALPINA - FEDI SILVANO - OFFICINA DELLE PELLI - MARMARA DERI

FASHION

CUDDLES 14

TRENDS AW 15/16

Delicate or grating shades, whitened, grey-washed.Woolly pastels; sugary pink, spun sugar white,acidic yellow, regressive blue, downy brown.

Where we pamper ourselvesBring tenderness to minimalism, tactile to the ordinary, make upsets inaudible.Build a felted shell, move within a bubble of cotton wool.Dress in a pillow of chick feathers.Resurrect Care Bears, wander around in pyjamas,stroke the cat.Blend the artefact with the natural, merge naivety and creativity.Superimpose simplicity and preciosity.

MORECUDDLES

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FASHION

CUDDLES 15

TRENDS AW 15/16

ProtectTender and comforting materials, the product of a child’s imagination,silently luxurious.Knitwear and dipped lamb form gentle shells, hair and feathers imitate soft eiderdown.Multi-layer quilting creates warm protection, an ultra-light cosy nest. Geometry is shrinking and inspires mini-designs, micro-perforations, invisible plumetis.Chamois leather, washed deer, honeyed felt, silky pony, elastic weft, childlike furs, sheepskins, curly stuffed animals, coloured rabbit.Pastries glazed.

SPIRIT OF MATERIALS

FEDERICO ALBARELLO - YVES SALOMON - FEDI SILVANO - COLORTEX

FASHION

INSOLENCE 16

TRENDS AW 15/16

Where we couldn’t care lessMischief and provocation, a ‘punk attitude’ that exacerbates a taste for the offbeat, raising the forbidden and derision into rules of life, delighting in rewriting the codes.A new ‘trash-luxe’ character emerges, denying fashion to better manipulate it,for whom the unusual becomes usual.

Mustard goes to the head of pseudo purple,green refuses to be interpreted.Pink is off-colour, yellow is hirsute.Mao red is buried under sequins.

MORE INSOLENCE

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FASHION

INSOLENCE 17

TRENDS AW 15/16

ProvokeMaterials are mistreated: torn, ragged,broken down, sunken, worn, striped with unusual colours. In the grip of dandyism,they are inspired by fallen aristocracy.Their precious finish deteriorates over time.We risk uncertain combinations of sheepskin and devoré linen, of precious skins and throwaway textiles.Carpets and tapestries let their worn threads be seen. Paisley and Persian designs are overprinted and faded. Tough skins, sometimes oiled, sometimes washed, adopt the look of a gangly loser, a sophisticated hobo.Furs are trashy, inclined to hysteria, dishevelledand unkempt.

SPIRIT OFMATERIALS

ENSARI DERI - ABIP - L.I.P - BENERICCETI - AMERICAN SUPPLY - MEGISSERIE LAURET

FASHION

PERMANENCE 18

TRENDS AW 15/16

Where we wonderIs it reasonable to make beauty permanent?Is it contemporary to hope for a breathing space in this frenzy that possesses us?Is it possible to turn to neo-classicism and antique references to breathe new modernity into art and fashion?Is it desirable to learn to sketch again by tapping on your tablet?Is it enough to ask these questions but not answer them?

Between shade and light, between very pale and very dark.Timeless colours; storm purple, aurora borealis,charcoal black, alpaca yellow.

MORE PERMANENCE

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FASHION

PERMANENCE 19

TRENDS AW 15/16

EndureSobriety of materials.Contrast between the ultra-smooth and often ultra-matt monochromes, moderate glazing and subtle gradations of colour.Quiet grains abandon the traditional two-tone finish and prefer the monochrome look.They seize the opportunity to renew finishes, enlivened by savvy doses of shine. Box leathers look hand-polished, dusted grains have an antique patina. Perforations and laser cut-outs follow an irregular rhythm. The very refined scales of exotic skins are small and discreet.Furs are perfect, shaved minks, bleached astrakhan, combed castor.

SPRIRIT OFMATERIALS

NOVALPINA - SOYDAN - BODIN JOYEUX - RUSSO DI CASSANDRINO - SOUBACH

FASHION

COLOUR RANGE 20

TRENDS AW 15/16

COLOURS AW15/16

EUGÈNE - 19-4008 TPX

OSCAR - 19-6050 TPX

ECCENTRICITY

BRUMMEL - SCRATCHED GOLD

NEURONS MYSTERY

VIVIANNE - 16-1359 TPX

BARBARA - 17-3323 TPX

COMPOSITE - 14-0000 TPX

CONTAINER - 18 -1454 TPX

ROULOTTE - 16-0632 TPX/15- 0628 TPX

DOCK - 15-6311 TPX

TRUCK - 18-5105 TPX

VERT LUGUBRE - 19-4906 TPX

CHAIR DE TOURTEAU - 14-1307 TPX

ROUGE TANGARA - 19-1718 TPX

BLACKEN BLOOD - 19-1106 TPX

JAUNE SPONGIEUX - 14-0846 TPX

INSOLENCE

JAUNE COLÈRE - 19-0850 TPX

ROUGE MAO - 19-1555 TPX/19-1557 TPX

BLEU MOQUEUR - 18-3833 TPX

CHANGING GREEN -18-0130 TPX

ROSE ABIMÉ - 18-1512 TPX

CUDDLES

ALBUMINE - 11-0107 TPX

BABYGROS - 13-0640 TPX

LOUKOUM - 16-0421 TPX

BARBE À PAPA - 18-4036 TPX

ROUDOUDOU - 16-1235 TPX

TEADY BEAR - 18-1312 TPX

PERMANENCE

GLAISE - 18-1210 TPX

ALPAGA - 17-1128 TPX

BORÉAL - 15-4703 TPX

ORAGE - 19-3915 TPX

MOLESKINE - 19-0820 TPX

FUSAIN - 19-0000 TPX

GATSBY - 19-3642 TPX

PNEUMATIQUE - 18 -1304 TPX

E V EN TS

EVENTS P.21 > P.31

EVENTS INCUBE

INCUBE PROVIDES INFORMATION ABOUTNEW AREAS OF DEVELOPMENT ANDINNOVATION.

IT TAKES VISITORS ON A VOYAGEOF DISCOVERY AND REFLECTION THROUGH ASERIES OF BOLD AND RELEVANT MATERIALEXAMPLES.

INCUBE PRESENTS A SELECTION OF SAMPLES ILLUSTRATING THE MOST STRIKING TECHNICAL INNOVATIONS AND THE BEST REPRESENTATIONS OF CHANGES IN CONSUMER DEMAND.

INCUBE

INCUBE : THE INNOVATION P.22 > P.24

EVENTS

INNOVATION 23

INCUBE

COMFORT

For winter 15-16, innovations are primarily focused on improving comfort, resistance and the convenience of skins and components.

They seek to be protective via pairings that increase their ability to retain heat whilst maintaining their natural look.

Materials are breathable and softer thanks to associations with new, cutting-edge components which produce unexpected and high performance reversible materials.

Resistance remains a major concern for the season. Finishes and colours are stabilised and no longer bleed.As for humidity, the enemy of skins, new procedures for pairing materials and new waterproofing treatments make it possible to vary finishes and textures.

Lastly, the convenience afforded by dry cleaning, a characteristic that is becoming increasingly widespread, means that new uses of the material can be envisaged.

Environmental concerns remain at the forefront of this research. CONCERIA STEFANIA -

NATURAL LOOK,THERMO-REGULATING AND BREATHABLE

CONCERIA STELLA -SPECIAL PAIRING, WARM AND ULTRA-LIGHT

CONCERIA DI URGNANO -DUVET ASSEMBLED BY HEAT WELDING

EVENTS

INNOVATION 24

INCUBE

CONVENIENCEFEDERICO ALBARELLO -GRINDING BEFORE THE FINISH TO ENHANCE THE RESISTANCE OF THE RUBBERY TEXTURE

RESISTANCE

TANNERIES DU PUY -VERY RESISTANT RUBBER, AS A RESULT OF BETTER ADHERENCE TO THE GRAIN

ALEXANDER VISTMANN -SHOWERPROOF TREATMENT ON A VERY PRONOUNCED CAVIAR GRAIN LEATHER

WE LIKE IT A LITTLE, A LOT, MADLY, PASSIONATELY.LEATHER IS EVERYWHERE. FROM DESIGNER FURNITURE TO WALL COVERINGS,FROM HANDBAGS TO HIGH HEELS, IT IS THE FAVOURITE MATERIAL FOR FASHION AND INTERIORS. WHETHER EXPERIENCED PROFESSIONALS OR NEW COMERS,TEN TALENTED COMPANIES HANDLE IT WITH CONSUMMATE SKILL TO MEET THE MOST CHALLENGING ORDERS AND THEY INVITE YOU TO VISIT THEM DURING THE FIFTH EDITIONOF BESPOKE BY CUIR A PARIS.

FOCUS ON THE THREE NEW EXHIBITORS

BESPOKE

EVENTS BESPOKE

BESPOKE : THE TAILOR MADE P.25 > P.28

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EVENTS

LAËTITIA FORTIN 26

BESPOKE

LAËTITIA FORTIN,REHABILITATING LEATHERWWW.LAETITIAFORTIN.COM

INITIATIONLaëtitia Fortin graduated with a degree in upholstery techniques in 2011 then obtained a Master’s degree in product and furniture design in 2013 from Ecole Boulle, and she now works with both the artisan and industrial sectors, creating synergies between them.

ONCE UPON A TIME...Laëtitia decided to work with leather to make the most of second or third choice pieces. Her project, entitled “Leather with character” (Cuir de caractère) takes a prospective approach to leather and its many treatments. “It is the fruit of

an encounter between leather and me, between manual expertise and digital tools, between one-off items and multiple production runs".The origin of the project was inspired by the following observation: In the French leather industry, as a result of surface variations (wrinkles, scars, changes in colour, etc.) and mechanical variations (linked to the respiration and movements of the animal), only 10% of leathers are considered to be first choice. For the majority of the players in the industry, the value of the leather mainly comes from the degree of "perfection" of the skin, a paradoxical criteria given the living nature of leather. This classification and the system of valuing skins led Laëtitia to question the criteria of

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beauty and quality that define leather today and she thought it would be interesting to find ways to add value to second or third choice skins.

SKILLSUsing four techniques that she has refined to perfection, she creates new looks from the defects of goat, calf or lamb skins.The first one, applied to calf leather, involves cutting out the wrinkles of the skin and suturing them, to create a decorative texture of stitching. The second enhances the different thicknesses of goat leather by making incisions and splits; this creates a series of strata on the flesh side. With the third technique, she thins out lamb leather to its limits, going as far as to pierce the skin to obtain a sort of lacy leather. And with the fourth technique, she makes the most of the different colours of vegetable-tanned calf leather, which are analysed using computer software then outlined with a laser incision; to create volume she then boils the leather. As a result of these procedures, the material takes on new formats: bas-relief, organic volume, cartography, landscape and leather lace.

FAVOURITE MATERIALLeather that has been cut-out, dyed, torn, reconstituted, stitched, heated, burnt...With a natural, noble material, experimentation knows no limits!

APPLICATIONSLaëtitia proposes materials that could be used by other designers or interior designers. She also responds to requests for bespoke designs and production. The series of containers is more of an illustration of a finely-tuned production process than a finished item.

Project sponsored by the Degermann and Averpeaux tanneries.

EVENTS

ATELIER FRÉMY 27

BESPOKE

ATELIER FRÉMY,SCREEN PRINTING ON LEATHER FAVOURITE MATERIAL

“The first time I was asked to work on leather was when a client commissioned me to design and print a wine list onto the material. Leather is a noble product and I was immediately captivated by its sensuality. I developed a printing technique and sourced various suppliers. That is how I discovered CUIR À PARIS and the tanners”.

APPLICATIONSThe screen printing studio run by Véronique Frémy also designs and produces exclusive premium works. Whether decorative objects, accessories, furniture, one-off creations or communications materials – all these designs are printed to order in limited editions.

WWW.ATELIERFREMY.TUMBLR.COM

INITIATIONVéronique Frémy graduated from Ecole Boulle in 1990 and the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs in 1993. She then spent time as a resident at the Cité Internationale des Arts in Paris, where she developed her expertise in manual screen printing.

ONCE UPON A TIME... After graduation, Veronique worked in the winemaking world, with wine-producing es-tates, award-winning chefs and private wine tasting salons in Paris. An exhibition of her work was organised in 2008 in Tokyo, at the Lubero Gallery.In 2013, Véronique was chosen to set up her screen printing studio in a hub of Arts and Crafts professions that was created in the 13th district of Paris. Since then, she has worked with other artisans and designers and printed on a variety of materials, including leather.In 2015, Atelier Frémy will compete in the Prix Bettencourt as well as the Prix de la Ville de Paris.

SKILLSAtelier Frémy combines innovative techniques with traditional expertise. Applied arts and contemporary design form a harmonious marriage in the works produced by this design studio. Véronique is always on the lookout for new techniques for screen printing onto noble materials. Her workshop is an experimental

laboratory where innovation is the watchword and each project is unique.The know-how of Atelier Frémy is not limited to manual screen printing on leather and other noble materials (using gold, silver or copper leaf). It also includes the Artistic Direction of the project, namely the conception, creation of patterns, chromatic study and choice of materials.The Atelier produces exclusive prototypes in collaboration with a number of artisans including saddlers, leathergoods makers, and sheath makers.

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"MÉLIMÉLO" PATTERN © ATELIER FRÉMY

EVENTS

JULIETTE ARNAULT 28

BESPOKE

JULIETTE ARNAULT,SURFACE DESIGNERWWW.JULIETTEARNAULT.ULTRA-BOOK.COM

INITIATIONAfter studying art history, applied arts, textile design and acquiring a Brevet des Métiers d’ Art in hand embroidery, Juliette Arnault started working in the fashion sector in 2005.

ONCE UPON A TIME...In 2009, she opened her own business and continues to work in this field.She specialises in embroidery, and thanks to this expertise, she has explored a number of sectors and materials with her various projects: hat-making, artificial flowers, feathers, weaving, couture and model-making.

COMPETENCESJuliette reworks the various techniques and materials to create unique items. She works with leather and fur, taking inspiration from the construction techniques of milliners. She assembles the products to create a new material with unique patterns and textures.

FAVOURITE MATERIALFor many years her work has been focused around skins and its many properties: biological, intuitive and sensorial.In Juliette's opinion, leather is one of the most interesting materials: “it allows straight edged cut-outs and a multitude of applications, even becoming a medium for graphic expression. By its very nature it

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expresses quality and nobility and brings all of these properties to the new surface that has been created.”

APPLICATIONSJuliette works with renowned studios and collaborates on Haute Couture and ready-to-wear collections for luxury houses. She also works in the interior design sector, in partnership with independent designers and upholsterer-decorators.

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EVENTS CRAFT THE LEATHER

CRAFT THE LEATHER : EXHIBITION P.29 > P.31

“CRAFT THE LEATHER” IS A TRAINING PROJECT FOCUSED ON A GROUP OF TALENTED YOUNG DESIGNERS FROM PRESTIGIOUS INTERNATIONAL FASHION AND DESIGN SCHOOLS.

CRAFT THE LEATHER SHOWCASES THE WORK OF YOUNG ACCESSORIES DESIGNERS.

CRAFT THE LEATHER AIMS TO PROMOTE TUSCAN VEGETABLE-TANNED LEATHER, A HIGH-QUALITY PRODUCT CREATED BY THE SKILLED HANDS OF THE TUSCAN MASTER TANNERS, AND TO INCREASE AWARENESS OF THIS TRADITIONAL BUT ALSO EXTREMELY VERSATILE PRODUCT AMONG THE NEW GENERATION OF FASHION DESIGNERS, WHO WILL BE THE STYLISTS OF TOMORROW.

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EVENTS

EXHIBITION 30

CRAFT THE LEATHER

A group of selected students experienced total immersion in the culture of Tuscan Veg-tanned Leather. They followed the entire productive process from the tanneries, to the state of the arts water purification plant, receiving in-depth knowledge of the quality control system and techno/eco certifications of leather. During this training week, they came into contact with many types of vegetable-tanned leather, experienced industrial and artisan practices, joined a master class lead by traditional leather craftsmen, and in the concluding creative workshop, the designers were free to experiment crafting, finishing and personalization techniques with a wide range of leathers, materials and tools. Finally each designer partnered with a tannery and selected the leathers directly in the tannery to be used for the final phase of the project.

DESIGN © MARIA ELENA CANADA -RHODE ISLAND SCHOOL OF DESIGN

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EVENTS

EXHIBITION 31

CRAFT THE LEATHER

Based on the experience acquired during this workshop, interpreted by their personal creativity, these young designers elaborated a creative theme related to the natural characteristics of Veg-tanned leather and a mini-collection of fashion accessories that are being presented at CUIR À PARIS, on September 16th – 18th 2014.

Visitors will have the chance to review the creations of these young talents and to vote their preference. The winner of Craft The Leather 2014 will be awarded during the fair. The award ceremony will take place on September 17th at 16:00 in the VIP area.

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INITIATOR

TOSCANA PROMOZIONEWWW.TOSCANAPROMOZIONE.IT

PARTICIPANTS

Tessa Groenewoud -ARTEZ INSTITUTE OF THE ARTS

Anat Uziely -BEZALEL ACADEMY OF ART & DESIGN

Naotoshi Seki -BUNKA FASHION COLLEGE

Roswitha Gritsch -DEUTSCHESCHUHFACHSCHULE

Fernando Scott Webb -FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

Koyomi Yanagimoto -HIKO MIZUNO COLLEGE OF JEWELRY

Signe Eistorp Nielse -KOLDING SCHOOL OF DESIGN

Young Hyun Kim -KOOKMIN UNIVERSITY

Louise de Groote -LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION

Louise de Groote -RHODE ISLAND SCHOOL OF DESIGN

PARTNER

CONZORTIO VERA PELLE ITALIANA CONCIATA AL VEGETALEWWW.PELLEALVEGETALE.IT

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NEXT EDITION 10-11-12 FEB. 2015

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