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Dressmaking Grade 9 Quarter 1: Module 4:Week 7-8

Republic of the Philippines Department of Education

PUBLIC TECHNICAL - VOCATIONAL

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SPTVE

Dressmaking Grade 9 Quarter 1: Module 4

Week 7-8

MANIPULATING BASIC PATTERNS

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WHAT DO YOU ALREADY KNOW?

Pre-test

Let us find out how much you already know. Read and understand the items

being described below. Choose the letter of the correct answer and write it in your

quiz notebook.

1. This is another term for sports collar.

a. continuous collar b. convertible collar

c. flat collar d. mandarin collar

2. This is the seam allowance for the inseam of princess cut dress.

a. 1.5 cm b. 2.0 cm

c. 2.5 cm d. 2.7 cm

3. This is the proper stroke in cutting curve line.

a. long even b. long uneven

c. short even d. short uneven

4. This is the line that indicates where the pattern will be cut.

a. curve lines b. cutting lines

c. seam allowance d. straight lines

5. This is the symbol for grain line.

a. ─ b. ↔

c. ≡ d. ↕

6. This type of collar is also called menton collar.

a. shawl collar b. sailor’s collar

c. sports collar d. Mandarin collar

7. This is a fold turned under the wrong side of the garments.

a. dart b. hem

c. hemline d. seam

8. The line indicating when seam would be stitched.

a. dart b. hem

c. hemline d. seam line

9. The line where the hem will be turned.

a. dart b. hem

c. hemline d. seam line

10. Seam allowance for the neckline of Princess Cut Dress.

a. 3/8 “ b. 1/2” c. 3/4” d. 5/8”

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LESSON 4 : MANIPULATING AND CUTTING FINAL PATTERNS

WHAT IS THIS LESSON ABOUT?

The lesson deals on how patterns are laid out in accordance with the

standard procedure how patterns are manipulated in accordance with the

customer’s specifications. The latter includes labelling, filling and securing

final patterns as per standard operating procedure. It also deals with the

cutting of final pattern with seam allowance in accordance with customers’

specifications.

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?

At the end of the lesson, you should be able to:

1. lay out pattern in accordance with the standard procedure;

2. manipulate basic/block pattern in accordance with the customers’

specifications;

3. label, fill and secure the final patterns as per standard operating

procedure;

4. cut the final patterns with seam allowance in accordance with the

customers specifications; and

5. check the cut final pattern pieces.

LET US STUDY - Words to Study

• Bust point – the focal point for dart manipulation in the bodice front

• Bust-fitting dart – the fold that originates in the underarm seamline

• Dart – a fold of fabric wider at one end coming to a point at an end which gives shape to garment

• Fitting dart – are triangular folds in the cloth that fit the fabric to the curves of the body

• Hem – the fold turned under the wrong side of the garment

• Hemline – the line where the hem will be turned

• Seam allowance – space added between the cut edge and stitching line of the fabric

• Seam line – line indicating when seam would be stitched.

• Sloper – a cardboard copy of the basic pattern that dart areas and seam allowance cut away

• Waist-fitting dart - the fold that originates in the waistline

• Weights – heavy objects placed on top of patterns when tracing for the pattern not to move.

• Cutting line – the line where the pattern is to be cut.

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Plan for the Construction of a Princess Cut Dress with Collar

Construction garment is just like building construction that needs

planning. In making a project, there must be an accompanying project plan.

This serves as a guide in making any kind of project. It contains the materials

and tools to be used, design, and procedure in making the project.

Project Plan

Date Begun:

Project Plan No.: Date

Finished:

I. Name of the Project: Princess Cut Dress with Collar and Sleeves

II. Objectives: To construct a well-fitted Princess cut dress with puff sleeve

and sports/knotched collar correctly and neatly.

III. Word Study:

Princess Cut Dress is a dress with curve lengthwise line extending

from shoulders or armhole down to the waist, hips, or hemline of a

garment.

Puff Sleeves give one youthful appearance. It produces a feeling of

width at the shoulder and on the level of the bust or just above it.

Sports Collar provides a close fit at the back of the neck whether it

is open or closed.

IV. Tools and Equipment:

• Cutting tools

• Drafting tools

• Sewing tools

• Measuring tools

• Marking tools

• Sewing machine

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V. Materials and Supplies Needed:

Qty. Unit Description of Materials Unit Total Cost

2

1

4

9

½

TOTAL

yds.

spool

pcs.

pcs.

yds.

Polyester cotton (60 inches width)

Color thread

Pattern paper

Buttons

Pelon

Php45.00

Php10.00

Php3.00

Php5.00

Php20.00

Php90.00

Php10.00

Php12.00

Php45.00

Php10.00

Php167.00

VI. Design Specifications:

Button holes (handworked)

sports/ knotched collar

puff sleeve

Pri ncess cut dress

buttons

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VII. Procedure:

A. Pre-sewing stage

i. Take body measurements

ii. Draft the basic pattern

1. Front and Back Bodice

2. Front and Back Skirt

3. Sleeve iii. Construct and

manipulate final pattern

1. Princess Cut dress

2. Puff Sleeves

3. Sports/Knot Collar

iv. Draft final pattern

v. Prepare materials or fabric

vi. Lay and pin pattern pieces on the fabric

vii. Cut the fabrics

viii. Transfer construction mark

B. Sewing Stage

i. Prepare sewing machine

ii. Stay-stitching

iii. Baste the interfacing

iv. Overedge edges

v. Join inseam (front and back)

vi. Join shoulder vii. Prepare collar

viii. Attach collar ix.

Join side seams

x. Prepare sleeves

xi. Attach sleeves

xii. Finish hemline

xiii. Mark and work on buttonholes

xiv. Press finish dress

xv. Fit and evaluate

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VIII. Evaluation:

Evaluation

Weight

Student’s Grade

Teacher’s Grade

Workmanship

Accuracy

General Appearance

Speed

Work Habits

OVERALL

35%

30%

15%

10%

10%

100%

IX. Comments and Recommendations:

FLAT - PATTERN DESIGNING

Flat-Pattern Designing is working out the pattern of a garment either in

the material itself or by cutting a pattern using the foundation pattern as a

basis.

After drafting the basic/block pattern, you are now ready to manipulate the

basic pattern into casual apparel in accordance to the style specification.

Princess Cut Dress

1. Prepare the necessary tools, supplies and materials

• Tape measure

• Transparent ruler (long)

• French curve

• Hip curve

• Pencil

• Pattern paper (2pcs)

• Pins

• Scissor

• Eraser

• Weight

• Sloper

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2. Lay the basic pattern on the pattern paper with necessary allowances for

style needed.

3. Trace the front and back basic bodice patterns and the front and back

basic skirt patterns.

4. Manipulate the basic pattern to the desired style.

• From the front bodice, get the midpoint of the shoulder and mark.

• Raise the dart point 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) upward and draw a

connecting line towards the center of the shoulder line. (use broken

line)

• For the back bodice, raise dart point by 1 inch (2.5 cm) upward

and draw a connecting line towards the shoulders dart point.

• For the lower part which is the skirt, draw straight lines from the

dart point down to the hemline.

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5. Cut the pattern following the broken lines (cut the waistline dart and

shoulder dart). Slash a little from the bust point height toward the side

dart and close.

6. Pin all pattern pieces separately (allowing spaces for necessary flaring

and allowance) into another sheet of pattern paper.

shoulder fitting dart

1.5 cm.

waist - fitting dart

2.5 cm bust - fitting

dart

waist - fitting dart

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7. For flaring the inseam and side

• For the inseam, add 1.5 inches (4 cm) at the hemline and connect

it into the darts

• For the side, add also 1.5 inches (4 cm) at the hemline and connect

at the upper or first hip

8. For seam allowances:

• Neckline – 3/8 inch (1 cm)

• Shoulder –3/4 inch (2 cm)

• Armhole – 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)

• Inseam – 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)

• Side seam- 1 inch (2.5 cm)

• Hemfold – 1.5 inches (4 cm)

• Center front- ¾ inch (2 cm)

Center

Front

Side of

Back Center

Back

Side of

Front

cm. 1

2 cm.

1 .5 cm.

1 .5

cm.

1.5

cm .

1 .5 cm.

1 .5 cm.

1.5 cm

.

1 .5

cm .

1 .5 cm.

2.5 cm.

2.5 cm.

2.5 cm.

2.5 cm.

2.5 cm.

2.5 cm.

2

cm .

4 cm.

4 cm.

4 cm. 4

cm. 4 cm.

4 cm. 4

cm.

4 cm.

4 cm. 4

cm.

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Cutting of Final Pattern

Tools needed:

1. scissors

2. pin

3. weight

To cut the Princess cut dress:

1. Fold in the seam allowance and pin temporarily around he

neckline area.

2. Cut the neckline curve.

3. Turn out the following allowance of the cut pattern of the front

bodice.

4. From the shoulder and neckline corner, mark this point A,

measure 1 ½ inches (3.8cm). Mark point B.

5. From the point on the pattern on the waist level, measure 2 ½

inches (6.4cm). Mark the point C.

6. From the fold of the pattern on the hemline level, 2 ½ inches

(6.4cm). Mark the point D.

7. Connect point B to C with the slightly concave part of the ruler.

8. Connect point C to D with a straight line.

9. Cut along points B to C to D.

10. Turn the pattern so that the right side is facing up.

11. Pin the folded facing allowance and the main bodice of the

pattern around the neck area and the shoulder together.

12. Cut the outline of the front bodice on seam allowance from the

corner of the neckline to the shoulder line to the inseam to the

armhole line to the side seam and the hemline.

To Cut the Collar

1. Pin the folded part so that it will not move when cut.

2. Cut along the seam allowance.

To Cut the Sleeves

1. Pin the folded part so that it will not move when cut.

2. Turn out and cut along the seam allowance.

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Final Pattern – Princess Cut Dress

Labelling the Patterns

Label the following items in the pattern.

• Center front (CF) is a line placed in a fold of fabric indicating that

the pattern edge has been placed exactly on the fold of the fabric

that is on grain.

• Foldline ( ) refers to where the pattern is to be folded.

• Notches ( ) are V-shaped symbols along the cutting line.

• Grainline (↔) are arrowhead symbols with instructions for placing

the pattern on grain.

• Darts ( ) are indicated by two broken lines for stitching and a solid

line at center for folding.

• Buttonholes ( ) are indicated by a solid line having a short line at

right angles to one and when horizontal or at both ends when

vertical.

• Solid lines ( ) are used also to indicate center fold lines, some

hemlines, placement for pocket and trimmings that go on the

outside of the garment.

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• Name of pattern piece refers to the parts of pattern

• Name of person refers to the customer/client

Sports Collar or Convertible Collar. This provides a close fit at

the back of the neck whether it is open or closed. It is very practical to

wear under suit jackets and coats.

Steps in Making the Sports or Convertible Collar

1. Lower front bodice neckline by slightly removing some of the

intense curve.

2. Measure neck hole of pattern, and then divide by two.

3. Square out body ways from A.

4. From A to B is 8cm.

5. From B to C is the neckline of the pattern.

6. D is the center of B and C.

7. From C to F is 3/8 inch (1 cm). A to E is equal to B to C.

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8. From E to E1 is 1 cm. G is the center of line AE.

9. Finish collar by shaping A, G, E1 and B, D and F.

Shawl Collar. This collar is also called menton collar. It is

designed as a variation of the continuous collar. The curve portion of

the back neckline is straightened and squared to accentuate the

hugging effect the collar is supposed to give. This is commonly done on

the surplice bodice, one which has neckline extended on each side from

the shoulder and oftentimes to the opposite side seams with the line

crossing in the center.

Here is the procedure in making the shawl collar.

1. Prepare a full front bodice.

2. Design the V-shaped neckline after establishing the surplice

bodice.

3. Design the shawl collar.

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4. Mark front bodice center and start the overlap or closing from

this.

Sailor’s Collar. A collar of this type is popular among school girls.

This is obviously derived from the sailor’s uniform.

The steps in making the sailor’s collar are as follows:

1. Place the front and the back bodice as shown in the diagram.

2. Design the V-neckline on the front sloper.

3. Design a slanted line to the end shoulder portion. Square down

6 inches (15 cm) long and square it out to the center.

4. Trace the neckline to the desired design on a piece of paper.

5. Lay center back collar design against the folded material.

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Continuous Collar. This collar is part of the bodice. This collar rests

on a V-shaped neckline and gives a good sweeping effect from the front

to the back neck without distortions. It provides a smooth soft roll and

a hanging effect at the back of the neck.

Here is the procedure in making continuous collar.

1. Formulate a V-shaped neckline on the front bodice.

2. Design the desired shape of the collar.

3. Trace collar design of front bodice.

4. Open the flopped paper under and trace printed collar design.

5. Use the highest front neckline as the basis to continue

designing the back pattern.

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6. Square a line from A to B. the line should equal to the desired

width of the collar.

7. Bind carefully the collar design of front bodice to the center of

back bodice.

Half-Rolled Collar. This collar is very popular. It has a stand at

the back which gradually lessens in width until the collar lies flat at the

base of the throat.

Here is the procedure in making the half-rolled collar.

1. Draw around front and back bodice sloper as shown.

2. Overlap 1 inch (2.54 cm) at the outer shoulder line without

changing the neckline position.

3. Move 1 inch (2.54 cm) away from center point.

4. Shape the collar.

5. Complete the final pattern.

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Mandarin Collar. This is popularly called Chinese collar, standing

collar, or oriental collar. It fits very snugly around the neck giving one a

prim look.

The following are the steps in making the mandarin collar.

1. Measure the base neck circumference. Then divide by 2.

2. Square out both ways from A.

3. Measure 1.18 inches (3cm) from A to B.

4. Measure one-half of base neck circumference online AE.

Mark D as ½ of line AE.

5. Move up ¾ inch (1.90cm) from E to E1.

6. Measure 1 inch (2.54cm) from C to C1.

7. Bend AE1 through point D with a soft curve. Do the same for

BC1.

8. Finish collar by shaping C1E1.

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Sleeve is a part of a garment joined to the armhole by a seam.

Short Puffed Sleeve No. 1. The short puffed sleeve gives one youthful

appearance. It also provides bulk in order to conform to the shape of

the arm of the wearer.

The procedure in making this type of sleeve is as follows:

1. Using the foundation sleeve as a model, design slashes starting

from the bottom or girth going to the top part of the sleeves (see

arrows).

2. Open the slashes and spread them proportionately until desired

fullness is achieved.

3. Trace the sleeve giving it a flared effect. The flare will account

for the fullness necessary in making the puff.

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Short Puffed Sleeve no. 2. This type of sleeve produces a feeling

of width at the shoulder and on the level of the bust or just above it.

Following are the steps in making this sleeve:

1. Prepare the foundation pattern.

2. Design the various slashes for fullness. Slashes are designed

equally on both the top and lower sections of the sleeve.

Preferably, lay this pattern against the center bias fold.

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Puffed Sleeve No. 3. This sleeves design invites the eye to focus

on the shoulder level only. The exposed arm will appear to take on a

slimmer look. This type is best suited for middle-aged women who have

plump upper arms.

The steps in making this kind of sleeves are as follows:

1. Prepare the foundation pattern of the sleeve.

2. Design slashes for the upper cap.

3. Make sure that the slashes are geared toward the bottom.

4. Open the slashes for additional fullness.

5. Trace the pattern.

6. Mark the area of fullness on the final pattern.

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Cap Sleeve. The cap of the shoulder becomes the basis of the

sleeve. When a little extension is desired in order to allow the arm to

pass freely through the armhole, this sleeve will best serve its purpose.

Here is the procedure in making the cap sleeve.

1. Prepare the pattern for front and back bodice.

2. Extend the side line of the bodice up to the top to the level with

the end point of the shoulder.

3. Extend the shoulder and line up to the extended side line.

4. The length from the shoulder edge as illustrated will be the

length on the side armhole from where the side seams start.

This ensures ease in putting the arm through the armhole.

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Two-darted Sleeve. In making this sleeve, four inches are added

to the foundation sleeve pattern. The extra measurement is for the cap

portion which is to be darted in order to produce a pad to the cap

region.

The steps in making the two-darted sleeves are as follows:

1. Draft the foundation sleeve.

2. Add 2 ½ inches (6.4 cm) to the cap portion.

3. Curve gracefully following the basic curve for the canon.

4. Design the two darts on the cap.

5. The length of the darts should not exceed the measurement

added to the cap. The width of the darts will ensure a squared

effect of the cap.

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Four-darted Sleeve. The four-darted sleeve is a variation of the

two-darted sleeve. The darts are given out for design purposes only. The

length of the dart is limited to the added amount to the cap region.

Here are the steps in making the four-darted sleeves:

1. Draft the sleeve pattern.

2. Add 2 ½ inches (6.4 cm) to the cap region.

3. Design the four darts on the cap region.

4. Limit the length of the darts on the cap region.

5. Ensure a squared effect on the cap.

LET US REMEMBER

• Knowledge of pattern drafting will help you sew garments correctly.

• Pattern drafting is easy if each step in the process is clearly related to

the final outcome and if the drafter visualizes what he/she is doing.

• Both foundation and style pattern are needed in garment

construction. Some dressmakers cut the fabrics without using any

patterns.

• Cut exactly on the cutting line

• Accuracy in cutting is necessary to construct a garment that duplicates

the design and size of the pattern.

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HOW MUCH HAVE YOU LEARNED?

1. Differentiate the foundation pattern from a style pattern?

1. Distinguish the two patterns.

2. How is a style pattern made?

3. Why is a style pattern important?

4. What is the difference between seam allowance and seam line?

5. How should you start the cutting of final pattern?

LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Task I. Evaluate Princess cut dress, sports collar and puff sleeves.

Standards Highest

possible

score

Student Teacher

a. Measurements

• Make use of correct measurement

• Measurements correctly taken

• Allowance correctly added

b. Tools

• Drafting tools: correctly and properly used

• Drafting tools in good condition

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8

7

8

7

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c. Procedure

• Step-by step procedure: correctly followed

d. Patterns

• Princess cut dress: correctly and properly

interpreted and drafted

• Sports/Knotched collar: correctly and

properly interpreted and drafted

• Puff sleeve: correctly and properly interpreted and drafted

• Corners properly shaped

• Curved areas prim and smooth

• Cutting lines neatly done

TOTAL

15

10

8

8

7

7

7

100

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RESOURCES:

Paper/pencil

Cutting tools

Drafting tools

Measuring tools

Measurement chart

Model/Dress Form

Pattern paper

Long table

Weights

Manual/Learning modules

Sloper magazines

Fashion catalogue

Fabrics

Model Project

REFERENCES:

Del Rosario, Constancia et. al. Practical Arts-Clothing and Textiles I

and II, Publisher Philippine Book Company, Printed by Regal,

Manila, Philippines

Francisco, Chic R. Simplified Pattern-Making of Basic ladies, Wear,

Manila, Philippines

Francisco, Chic R. Complete Step-by-Step Guide in Fashion Designing,

Copyright 1992, Golden Ideas Publishing Home Inc.

Hilario, Carmelita B., Clothing Technology Made Easy Publisher National

Book Store Printed by 24k Printing Corp., Valenzuela City

Reader’s Digest, Complete Guide to sewing, The Reader’s Digest

Association, Inc., Pleasantville, New York, Montreal

Rojo, Luz V. et. al. Practical THE, Home Economics III and IV, Philippine,

Adriana Publishing

THE III and IV, Home Technology, Clothing I and II, DECS,

Philippines, Insular Printing Corp.

Knight, Lorna . The Dressmaker’s Technique Bible A Complete Guide to

Sewing. Page One Publishing. Published in Asia 2008

DISCLAIMER

Most of the content of this module is lifted from CBLM in Garments

Second Year, copyright, Department of Education 2008. Graphics were added to

enhance students’ understanding of concepts. Likewise, relevant activities were

added to make the module appropriate for distance modular learning. Barrowed

photos included in this module are owned by their respective copyright owners. The

publisher does not claim ownership over them. The additional activities were

prepared by ____________________________________.

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