dressmaking grade 9

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Dressmaking Grade 9 Quarter 1: Module 1: Week 1-2

Republic of the Philippines Department of Education

PUBLIC TECHNICAL - VOCATIONAL

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SPTVE Dressmaking Grade 9

Quarter 1: Module 1 Week 1-2

PLANNING GARMENT DESIGN

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WHAT IS THIS MODULE ABOUT?

This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes required in drafting

and cutting basic/block patterns for ladies casual apparel.

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?

At the end of this module, you should be able to: a.

plan garment design;

b. take client’s body measurements;

c. draft basic/block pattern; and

d. manipulate and cut final pattern.

WHAT DO YOU ALREADY KNOW?

Pre-test

Let us find out how much you already know. Read and understand the

items being described below. Choose the letter of the correct answer and

write it in your quiz notebook.

1. It refers to the company’s standard operating procedure.

a. determining garment costs

b. measuring body parts

c. Performing sewing

d. all of the above

2. It is a design created in garment by adding interesting

accessories.

a. decorative design

b. garment design

c. structural design

d. all of the above

3. This kind of pattern has all the allowances needed.

a. basic

b. block

c. commercial

d. style

4. This is another term for sports collar.

a. continuous collar

b. convertible collar

c. flat collar

d. Mandarin collar

5. This is the center of interest in a given garment.

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a. balance

b. emphasis

c. harmony

d. proportion

6. This measurement is taken around the arm.

a. armgirth

b. armhole

c. armscye

d. forearm

7. This line on a dress that adds height to the figure.

a. curve line

b. diagonal line

c. horizontal line

d. vertical line

8. This is called the main line of the garment.

a. design

b. fabric

c. pattern

d. silhouette

9. This is the style that instantly captures the attention of the

consumer.

a. design

b. fad

c. fashion

d. look

10. These are the kind of design wherein the parts of the garment are

cut and put together.

a. structural

b. formal

c. decorative

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LESSON 1

PLANNING GARMENT DESIGN

WHAT IS THIS LESSON ABOUT?

The lesson deals with the client’s job requirements in accordance with

standard operating procedure such as the preparation of garment design. It

also includes selection of designs and fabrics and incorporation of special

needs of clients in the design based on procedure.

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?

At the end of the lesson, you should be able to:

1. determine job requirements in accordance with the standard operating

procedure;

2. prepare garment design in accordance with the client’s requirements;

3. discuss and select design and fabric in accordance with the client’s

specifications; and

4. incorporate the special needs of client in the design based on the

procedure.

Words to study Design – the arrangement of elements of art and principles of

design. Fabrics – material of which a garment is made. Style – design created for a product in an effort to appeal to long

term criteria of what is beautiful or socially correct. Fashion – a currently accepted s tyle of the moment. Style of

dressing that is prevalent among a group of persons at a given time.

Fad – a style that has captured the attention of the consumers instantaneously and briefly.

Look – is the sum total of the elements which helps in determining the styles.

Couture – signifies expensive, high quality originally designed and cu stom made dresses for private clientele.

Couturier – a male or female designer of a couture house. Silhouette – outline contour of a garment.

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The process of making a garment is an orderly profession. It starts

from the choice of design, pattern, and fabric up to the construction of the

garment. Professional dressmakers divide the process into logical step-

cutting-basting, constructing and finishing so they know exactly how long it

will take to make a given garment.

Standard Operating Procedure in Garment Designing

• Determine the Customer Job Requirements. This refers to the

specifications given by the customers as to how her wardrobe would

look.

• Determine Garment Cost. Cost of materials and supplies for the

customer’s wardrobe including the sewing service fee are estimated.

• Measure Body Part. This involves taking of customer’s body

measurement.

• Draft Various Pattern. Pre-construction will be done through pattern

drafting.

• Prepare Materials and Machines. Gathering materials and setting up

of sewing machines are done according to the job requirements.

• Perform Sewing .This is the procedure in constructing the garment.

• Perform Finishing Touches. It is the selection and application of

appropriate finishes in the pre-constructed garment where first fitting

is done.

• Check Quality of Finished Product. It is the stage in the garment

construction, which involves trimming of excess threads, pressing and

proper packaging. This is where final fitting is being done.

Garment Design for Different Ladies’ Apparel

Many persons are particular about the clothes they wear. For

instance, most professionals strive to be well-dressed. They are conscious of

what they wear for they believe that the clothes they wear will spell out

success in their field of work. Every one should develop good taste in the

choice of clothes. This means that the person should be able to choose

clothes that are becoming to her and appropriate for different occasions.

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A designer should realize that not all styles that are in vogue or

popular in the fashion world are the best styles. Dress designing should

consider the individuality and personality of the person.

Kinds of Design in Clothing

There are two kinds of design in Garment Designing that sometimes vary

from season to season. Some seasons are heavy on decorative details and

trims, and other seasons are without adornment. The changes from one

season to another on decorative and structural details should be monitored

closely. These designs are:

1. Structural Concept of Design. It encompasses the over-all

construction of a dress, its shape and all the details involved in

pattern-making construction and the sewing construction of the

dress, such as darts, seams, pleats and tucks.

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CUT

Ladies basic dress is composed of different designs and these designs

have different elements and principles. The elements of color, lines, form or

shape, space and texture are all present in a casual dress.

The dress cut was composed of structural lines. Therefore, these

encompass the structural concept of design. Here are the examples of cut

which the dress may vary:

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2. Decorative Concept of Design. It involves the addition of decorative

trims that includes buttons, braids, embroideries, bias tapes, beads,

sequins, ribbons, etc. on a dress.

LADIES’ CASUAL DRESS

Casual dresses are flattering and comfortable. These clothes may be

of any combination of blouse, skirts, shorts and pants. Full dresses may

also be used as casual dress.

BLOUSE

Blouse is a woman’s loose outer garment from the neck down to the waist.

It usually fits at the waistline or at times tucked into the skirts or pants.

There are several types of blouses as seen in the figures:

1. Blouse with opening in front and with or without collar.

2. Blouse with opening at the back with or without collar.

3. Blouses without sleeves.

4. Blouses with straps over the shoulder.

5. Blouses that are bare over the shoulders.

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SKIRT

A skirt is another kind of free-hanging garment extending from the

waist down.

There are several types of skirts:

1. The fitted skirt and straight skirt

2. The gored skirt

3. The balloon (circular) skirt

4. The pleated skirt

5. Gathered or shirred skirt

6. Layered skirt

7. Wrapped around skirt

8. Yoke skirt or Combination skirt

9. Culottes skirt (a combination of short and skirt)

10. A-line skirt

1 2 3 4 5

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PANTS

People of different gender and age usually use pants. They are usually

made of cotton, twill, gabardine and linen fabrics. It has different lengths

and styles. Learn the terminology for the different pant lengths and styles.

Styles of Pants

10 7 9 6 8

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Cullotes

Harem

Pants

Gaucho

Zouave Pants

Palazzo

Knickers

Toreador Pants

Jeans

Trousers

Stirrup

Pants

Square Pants

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ELEMENTS OF DESIGN

1. Line creates a visual dimension of length

and width. When lines meet, space is

enclosed and a shape is defined. Lines

direct the eyes to a certain path of vision,

or could draw the eyes away from an

undesirable area of the body.

There are two kinds of lines in garments:

a. The directional line such as vertical,

horizontal, diagonal, checkered, broken

and curved. These affect the height and

size of an individual. Lines are serving

as clothing designs like the art of

printing flowers, dots and others on

fabric.

b. Structural lines are found on

necklines, armholes, hemlines, darts,

side seams, sleeves, collars, tucks and

pleats of garments.

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2. Color is a radiant energy loosely termed light that produces

sensation in our eyes. The color of the dress easily attracts th

client’s attention and becomes her basis in choosing her apparel.

a. Hue is the other name for color. It is the particular shade of

color that differentiates one from another.

1. Primary colors

are red, blue and

yellow. They are

the basic colors

where different

colors originated.

2. Secondary colors

are combinations

of primary colors

such that yellow

and blue produces

green, red and

blue produces

violet, red and

yellow produces

orange.

3. Intermediate colors stem from the combination of primary

and secondary colors.

4. Tertiary colors are obtained by mixing two secondary

colors.

5. Neutral colors are the white, black and gray and are

predominantly grayish and brownish.

a. Value is the lightness or darkness of color. White added to

a color will produce tints. Black added to a color will

produce shades.

b. Intensity or chroma is the chroma of a color corresponds

to its purity and saturation in a color other than black,

white and gray.

Basic Psychological Effects of Colors on People

White makes us feel clean and fresh. White connotes innocence and

purity.

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Red makes us feel bold and daring. Red connotes passion and

bravery.

Yellow makes us feel joyful. It also connotes cowardice and

treachery.

Blue represents truth, loyalty, calmness and wisdom. Deep blue could

also make us feel depressed.

Green suggests abundance as this is the color of plants, but green

could also suggest jealousy.

Purple is the color of royalty, but it could symbolize suffering.

Orange is a warm color but suggests deliciousness and ripeness.

Eateries, especially fastfoods, use orange with a touch of

green to stimulate appetite.

Black suggests strength and dignity and is usually worn for formal

evening affairs. Black also symbolizes mourning and death.

3. Space is the area inside an enclosed shape. The use of space can

lead to an interesting design, but the overuse of a space could make

the design too “busy”, while an empty space could be unattractive.

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4. Form or shape refers to the form of a person which shows the curves

of the body. This includes the shape of the face, neckline and the full

body or figure.

a. Shapes of Faces. There are different shapes of faces and these are:

1. Oval. All kinds of neckline are becoming to this shape.

2. Round. This resembles the shape of the moon where

neckline should be given more considerations.

3. Triangle. The use of wider neckline is helpful.

4. Square. Close necklines will do justice to the top

shape of the face.

5. Heart shape. The shape is fitting to almost all kinds

of necklines.

b. Shapes of Necklines. Necklines emphasize the shape of the face.

In choosing the neckline for a garment, consider the shape of the

face.

1. A combination of vertical and horizontal

lines produces square necklines.

2. Diagonal lines produce V-necklines.

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3. A curve line produces round necklines.

4. A horizontal line produces Sabrina, Boat

or Bateau necklines.

5. A combination of vertical and curve lines

produces U-shaped necklines.

6. Curve lines produce scallop necklines.

c. Body Shapes or Figures. It refers to the overall

structure of the body. This may be of any

combined qualities in height, size and shape.

1. Tall, narrow rectangle or column. This

body type is favoured by fashion designers

as models with this figure make clothes

look great.

Features:

• Tall

• Narrow frame

• Small bust

• High, but undefined waist

• Slim hips

• Flat bottom

• Long slim legs

• Long slim arms

Choose:

• Jackets and tops with detail at the collar

and neckline

• Flare, A-line, pleated and gored skirts suit a tall,

slim frame

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• Low and high waist styles or princess line

dresses with seams curving from the armhole

• Trousers with pockets and pleats at the waist

and hips

2. Hourglass. It is a feminine, well- balanced and in

proportion, with a defined waist

between a full bust and hips.

Features:

• Full bust

• Narrow waist

• Full hips

• Round bottom

Choose:

• Unfussy jackets in a simple line

with few pockets or details

• Bias-cut skirts or softy draping

styles

• Dresses with shaped styled that

accentuate the waist, high-waist

styles and bias-cut dresses

3. Top-heavy Triangle. This shape

applies to those with who are top

heavy, with width in the upper part of

the body and narrowest hips, creating

a triangular-shaped figure.

Features:

• Wide shoulders

• Full bust

• Undefined waist

• Slim hips

• Slim legs

Choose:

• Simple top with round, scooped or

V-shaped necklines look good

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• Straight-tailored, pleated or panelled skirts with

vertical, topstitched seams work well

• Tunics and straight styles suit a top-heavy

silhouette

• Trousers with slim hips and bottom, with detail

at the hip, lowrise styles with a decorative belt

4. Bottom-heavy triangle (the classic

pear-shape). The pear-shape appear

to carry too much weight on the hip,

with the top half of the body small in

comparison with the lower half.

Features:

• Narrow shoulders

• Small bust

• Narrow waist

• Full hips

• Round bottom

• Heavy thighs

Choose:

• Blouses with details like puff, cap

and leg of mutton sleeves add width

to the shoulders and square necks

• Simple skirts with few details that drape over the

hip, A-line, bias cut and assymmetric designs in

a longer length

• Princess-line styles that skim over

the hip with detail at the neckline.

5. Circle (Apple). This silhouette has all

the emphasis in the middle of the body,

with extra weight being carried at the

waistline.

Features:


• Full bust

• Large tummy

• Flat bottom

• Slim legs

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Choose:

• Blouses with detail at the neckline rather than

the bust, a cardigan style

or a straight fit jacket with a classic collar

• Skirts with an elasticized or faced waistband for

comfort, a straight, gored or wrap skirt with a

length that show off good legs

• Flared dresses with princess-line seams, tunic

styles worn with over leggings or narrow

trousers

• Narrow straight trousers with a faced waist and

concealed zip in the side seam

6. Oval. Generally taller than the apple

and pear figures. The extra height

makes the oval shape easier to conceal.

Features:

• Tall


• Small bust

• Thick waist

• Average hips

• Slim legs

Choose:

• Light cardigans or unstructured

jackets worn over simple tops; sleeve

details on top and classic shirts with

a yoke

• Blouses with cowl neckline or

heirloom detail at the bust to

balance the width of this area

• Skirts with straight and assymmetric

styles and a border above the hem

• Straight tunic and shift styles

dresses

• Wide-legged, slim-fitting , shapedleg,

and a cropped trousers

5. Texture is the feel (softness, roughness, and

crispness), appearance (shininess, dullness)

and weight (lightweight,

heavyweight, mediumweight) of a fabric.

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6. Pattern or print of fabric is dress materials

produced by interlacing lengthwise and

crosswise threads (weaving) knitting, and other

methods of construction. Characteristics of

fabrics that affect their handling are the fiber,

the type of construction, the weight, the width,

the design, the texture, and the finished fabric.

Most fabrics used in sewing are woven; some are knitted, and a

few are pressed or bonded.

a. Woven means those made by interlacing

two sets of yarns.

1. Grain is direction of the yarn.

2. Lengthwise threads form the

foundation of the fabric and are

the stronger threads. This makes

them firmer and less stretchy than crosswise threads.

3. Selvage refers to the two finished edges of a woven fabric

that are strong and firm. When used on straight seam, do

not require any seam finish.

4. Crosswise threads run across the fabric from selvage to

selvage.

b. Knitted refers to the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns

which form a succession of connected loops causing the stretchy

quality of knits.

c. Pressed or bonded refers to non-woven fabrics like felt and pelon

have no grain. Pelon is used for interfacings.

Selecting Fabric for the Dress

There are several fabrics to choose from but a designer must be guided by

the following guide questions to help the client choose the fabric that will

match the client’s preferences:

1. Is the fabric made of finely woven material? Is it of good quality?

2. Is the color becoming to the complexion of your client?

3. Do the prints match to the client’s size and height?

4. In what appropriate occasion can you wear your garment?

5. Is the fabric easy to maintain?

The answer to these questions will help you decide the kind of fabric

to buy for your client’s clothing that will complement to his/her personality.

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The personality of the wearer shows the kind of image she projects.

Personalities differ depending on the kind of clothing people wear. Most

introvert persons prefer clothes of simple yet classical cut with pastel or

light colors. Extroverts on the other hand are creative, artistic, expressive

and energetic. Hence, they prefer clothing that is comfortable, attractive

and fashionable. They can wear all kinds of clothing of varied style, colors

and design with confidence.

PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN

• Proportion is the relationship in size between various parts to the

whole. Because fashion designing is a creative expression, exact

mathematical proportions are not required as long as what you

design is visually pleasing.

• Balance is the arrangement of a design on a space which results

on a sense of equilibrium. There are two kinds of visual balance.

They are the formal balance, and the informal balance.

• Emphasis is achieved by the designer’s ability to create a center of

interest by which the viewer’s eyes are directed to a specific area of

a garment or body part.

• Rhythm is the repetition of an accent to create an interesting

design. Repeating an accent to different parts of the dress or one

part of the dress will achieve a design that is harmonious and

therefore visually united.

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SPECIAL PREFERENCES

• Collar is designed and attached to any shape of neckline.

• Sleeves is part of the garment that covers and is attached to

the armhole of the garment.

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• Cuff is a plain or decorative band attached to the cover edge of the

sleeve.

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• Pocket is one or two

layer of fabric cut in the

desired shape and

applied to the right side

of a garment or set into

a garment opening or

seam.

• Yoke is a shaped part of garment that holds other part together.

LET US REMEMBER

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• The principles of art together with the different elements must be

utilized properly to come up with the pleasing dress design. The

figure is one factor that influences choice of dress design.

Drawing attention to your best features by using emphasis on

dress design will also camouflage your figure defects.

• The age, figure, complexion and profession of a person affect one’s

choice of clothing materials, fabric durability, ease of handling,

maintenance and cost should also be considered when attending

an occasion.

• The choice of clothing materials reflects one’s personality.

HOW MUCH HAVE YOU LEARNED?

1. What should be considered in planning garment design?

2. Why are client’s needs considered in designing a garment?

LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Task 1

Color Schemes

• Collect fabrics with different color combinations and arrangements.

In your design you may use these color arrangements of

combinations.

• Cut the fabric into 3-inch by 3-inch squares.

• Paste in an album and refer to them for color schemes.

RUBRICS

Collections of Fabric Criteria and Points

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Task 2

Garment Sketching

Select a partner from your class. Study her individuality. use the form

below to record the information. Recommend a dress design for her specific

needs.

Name of Client: _____________________________ Date:_____________

Shape of Face o Oval

o Round

o Triangle

o Square

Heartshaped

Figure Type

Tall and Slim

o Pear Shaped

o Full-busted

o Short-waisted

Color

o Blue

o Green

o Red

Primary Colors

Secondary Colors

Intermediate Colors

Tertiary Colors

- Collected the primary colors in fabrics – 20 pts.

- Collected the primary and secondary colors in fabrics – 40 pts.

- Collected the primary, secondary and intermediate colors in fabrics – 60 pts.

- Collected the primary, secondary,

Neutral Colors

-

intermediate, tertiary colors in fabrics – 80 pts.

Collected the primary, secondary, intermediate,

tertiary and neutral colors in fabrics – 100 pts.

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o Violet

o Yellow

o Orange

o Other

Preferred Color

(Please indicate):____________________

Fabric o Small Prints

o Plain

o Stripes/Plaids

o Bold designs

Abstract

Fabric Texture o Soft

o Lightweight

o Rough

o Heavyweight

o Smooth

o Medium weight

o Shiny

Sleeve o Short

o Long

o Plain o with Fullness

o with Cuff

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Length of Dre

Recommended Design

o Above the knee

o Knee-Level

o Below the knee

o Mid-leg

o Ankle length

Front Back

Note: Label each specific garment design.

RESOURCES:

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Paper/pencil

Cutting tools

Drafting tools

Measuring tools

Measurement chart

Model/Dress Form

Pattern paper

Long table

Weights

Manual/Learning modules

Sloper magazines

Fashion catalogue

Fabrics

Model Project

REFERENCES:

Del Rosario, Constancia et. al. Practical Arts-Clothing and Textiles I

and II, Publisher Philippine Book Company, Printed by Regal,

Manila, Philippines

Francisco, Chic R. Simplified Pattern-Making of Basic ladies, Wear,

Manila, Philippines

Francisco, Chic R. Complete Step-by-Step Guide in Fashion Designing,

Copyright 1992, Golden Ideas Publishing Home Inc.

Hilario, Carmelita B., Clothing Technology Made Easy Publisher National

Book Store Printed by 24k Printing Corp., Valenzuela City

Reader’s Digest, Complete Guide to sewing, The Reader’s Digest

Association, Inc., Pleasantville, New York, Montreal

Rojo, Luz V. et. al. Practical THE, Home Economics III and IV, Philippine,

Adriana Publishing

THE III and IV, Home Technology, Clothing I and II, DECS,

Philippines, Insular Printing Corp.

Knight, Lorna . The Dressmaker’s Technique Bible A Complete Guide to

Sewing. Page One Publishing. Published in Asia 2008

DISCLAIMER

Most of the content of this module is lifted from CBLM in Garments

Second Year, copyright, Department of Education 2008. Graphics were added to

enhance students’ understanding of concepts. Likewise, relevant activities were

added to make the module appropriate for distance modular learning. Barrowed

photos included in this module are owned by their respective copyright owners. The

publisher does not claim ownership over them. The additional activities were

prepared by ____________________________________.

dressmaking grade 9

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