drinking wisely and well: sangiovese spoken here

Drink Wisely & Well © 2015 by Tracy Ellen Kamens

Drinking Wisely & Well A publication of It’s A Winederful Life WINTER 2015

Sangiovese spoken here


I t could be the start of a bad joke: six journalists walk into a Consorzio office… wondering what in the world is Montecucco?

But, instead, it was a pleasant journey that revealed another side of Sangiovese, a coterie of winemakers dedicated to their

land and people passionate about wine.

Situated within Italy’s Tuscany region, just south of Sienna, Montecucco abuts Morellino di Scansano and looks across the

river to Brunello di Montalcino. Here, seven towns sheltered by Mt. Amiata, an extinct volcano, are making wine under the Mon-

tecucco designation.

While wine has historically been produced in the region, the denomination is quite young, having obtained recognition in 1998,

thanks to the enterprising efforts of six producers. Previously, the area was known more for its polycultural approach to agriculture,

with farmers growing not only grapes, but also olive groves and cereals and raising livestock, a practice which continues to this day.

But, despite its relatively recent arrival on the wine scene, Montecucco has seen significant growth in both numbers and quality and

has been rewarded for its efforts. Since 2011, the denomination also sports a DOCG level wine and can boast that its yields are

among the lowest in Italy at 7 tons per hectare for these top

wines.

The DOC rules account for white, rosato and red wines. White

wines are produced predominantly from Vermentino, with a

minimum of 40% required for Montecucco Bianco DOC and at

least 85% of this variety for Montecucco Vermentino DOC.

As elsewhere in Tuscany, Sangiovese is the grape of choice for

reds. The Montecucco Rosso DOC requires a minimum of 60%

Sangiovese, while the Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG must be

produced with at least 90% Sangiovese. This latter wine and the

Riserva also require 12 months and 24 months in wood, respec-

tively, plus several months in bottle before release.

Given the area’s proximity to Morellino and Brunello, the wines

Giovan Battista Basile of Azienda Basile

almost beg to be compared and contrasted, in their description -- more tannic than Morellino; less in-

tense than Brunello. But, in reality, such an approach is much too limited and doesn’t provide the full

picture.

Rather, the wines are truly capable of standing on their own merit and have their own distinct voice.

This point was abundantly clear after we tasted through a selection of 24 wines at the consorzio office

– our introduction to Montecucco. The wines were robust expressions of Sangiovese with firm tannins,

notes of dried red fruit, spice and cherries with structure, complexity and power.

Moreover, as we quickly learned, as a region made up of many small producers (there are presently

70), the stories behind these wines were equally revealing. While there were differences in individual

wine styles from producer to producer, a unifying declaration of a fierce devotion to quality and love

for the territory was evident during our visits. To wit, 55% of the producers subscribe to organic farm-

ing.

Colle Massari: A Gentle Giant

Perhaps the leading voice of the region is that of Claudio Tipa, President of the Montecucco Consor-

zio and owner of Colle Massari. Named for the hill on which it stands, Colle Massari is by far the

largest producer in the region at 500,000 bottles per annum (of the region’s total annual production

of 1.8 million bottles).

Tipa, a Tunisian-born Swiss who entered the wine industry after a successful career in telecommuni-

cations has built a portfolio of wine properties with his sister, Maria Iris, beginning with the purchase

of Colle Massari in 1998.

Now also the owner of Grattamarco (in Bolgheri) and

Poggio di Sotto (in Montalcino), Claudio admits that he

entered the industry in a backwards manner by starting

with a wine that was unknown in the market. Yet, despite

this obstacle, and the allure of his other properties, his

heart seems wedded to Montecucco.

Further, his commitment to Montecucco appears moti-

vated by passion and not profit; Claudio proclaimed that,

“We want to do something else – something smaller; something real. [Montecucco] is little and hidden. If you have Brunello, you

can sell it. Montecucco is much harder [to sell].” In spite of Colle Massari’s relatively large size, his maintains a philosophy of stay-

ing small while keeping the quality high. His hard work and dedication have paid off, with Colle Massari earning Gambero Rosso’s

Winery of the Year distinction in 2014.

Not surprisingly given his tenure and stature in the region, Claudio has served as president

of the consorzio three times, but says that he won’t serve in that position again. Instead, he

prefers to get the younger generation involved. In fact, he mentioned that he plans to retire

at age 70. While I enjoyed the full collection of Colle Massari wines, I was particularly im-

pressed with the Montecucco Riserva 2012, which dis-

played an impressive array of spice, cinnamon, black

cherry, wet leaves, earth and olive notes.

Perazzeta: Preserving the Past

Another of the region’s early pioneers is Perazzeta. One

of the founding members of the DOC, this small family

business operates from a building that dates to 1400. The

historic cellar was bombed during WWII because the

Allies through the Germans were hiding there (they

weren’t, but others were).

Similarly, the vineyard had been in the family for genera-

tions, providing wines for daily use. But, in 1994, the

family was asked to bottle their wine by a Livorno res-

taurant, encouraging them to pursue a more commercial

Claudio Tipa, ColleMassari

Rita Bocci, Perazzeta


course for their wines. Today, their annual production runs 60-70,000 bottles.

In another nod to the past, the Bocci family has been working with a professor from Padua to re-

search and identify old vines that have survived. As a result of this work, the winery’s Emma is pro-

duced from an extinct Sangiovese clone.

We were greeted at Perazzeta by Rita Bocci, wife of winemaker, Alessandro, who welcomed us

dressed in denim overalls, underscoring the hands-on, down-to-earth nature of the people we met.

More recently, they have been joined by their daughter, Sara, in the family business. Their Rita

Riserva 2009 – named for both Alessandro’s wife and mother – was stunning with its beautiful de-

velopment of spice, oak and cherry.

Prato al Pozzo: Yielding a Dream

At Prato al Pozzo, we met Francesca Quiriconi, who owns the small estate with her husband, Fabio.

The duo purchased the property in 2003

and have been slowly growing the estate.

Fabio has served as director of two Antinori estates for many years and

has always had a dream to produce his own wine.

After ten years of waiting, they are finally building a real cellar, with con-

struction appearing almost completed during the time of our visit. But,

this dream has not come without its costs. Francesca manages the proper-

ty in Fabio’s absence (he is only home on weekends) and is also responsi-

ble for taking care of their two daughters on her own.

Named for a Molière character who was reluctant to spend money, their

flagship wine is sourced from the initial Arpagone vineyard (1.5 hectares), which doesn’t yield very much. Although Francesca re-

ferred to this wine as a “poor cousin of Brunello,” it was really quite lovely with fresh cherries, earth, olive and mineral character. As

they continue to establish themselves, they plan to grow to a maximum of 2.5 hectares and are in the process of converting to biody-

namics.

Poggio Mandorlo: Bringing Friends Together

Another realization of a dream, Poggio Mandorlo brought together

four friends - Roberto, Felice, Giuseppe and Fabio - who wished to

make their own wine. Accordingly, they came to the region in 2001,

planting 30 acres of land under the direction of Consultant viticulturist,

Maurizio Saettini, and initially hiring Brunello producer, Roberto Ci-

presso (of La Fiorita), as their consultant winemaker.

The estate sits 250 meters above sea level. Here, the mountains protect

the vineyard from the Sirocco winds and stop the rain, while the good

wind from the sea is able to penetrate and benefits the vines.

With Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet

Franc, the vineyard was carefully planted

based on soil and exposure. Unlike Montal-

cino, which has no calcium in its soils, the Poggio Mandorlo estate is home to calcareous Albezza soils,

similar to those found in Chianti Ruffina. The first vintage was in 2004.

Their top wine, bearing the same name as the estate, is a blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc,

taking its cue from St. Emilion, despite its IGT Maremma Toscana designation. Given their north-facing

exposure, the Cabernet Franc vines maintain good acidity and provide elegance to this wine, with its ripe

fruit of red and black berries along with wet leaves and spice. Il Guardiano, their entry-level wine, previ-

ously qualified for Montecucco Sangiovese status, but with its 85% Sangiovese/15% Merlot blend, as of

2011 (the year of the new DOCG regulations), this wine is now labeled as IGT Toscana.

Maurizio Saettini, Poggio Madorlo

Francesca Quiriconi, Prato al Pozzo


Poggio al Gello: A Labor of Love

With four hectares of grapes and five hectares of olives, Poggio al Gello is a labor of love

for a retired teacher (Alda) and engineer (Giorgio) who claim that they are continuing to

work, but without the stress. The two are happy with their small size of 20,000 bottles an-

nually and are proponents of organic agriculture.

Recognizing that they needed schooling in the ways of wine, the couple hired the director

of Col d’Orcia as their “teacher.” They note that he never tells them to do this or do that,

but rather, is careful to explain to them why they should or shouldn’t do something. “He is

our doctor of wine,” Alda says. Their Rosso del Gello Riserva 2011 spent two years in

large oak, resulting in depth and complexity in the balanced and elegant wine.

In addition to producing Montecucco wines, the estate makes two wines from ancient vari-

eties – Pugnitello and Fogliatonda -- as much as to preserve these nearly extinct varieties

as because they don’t wish to be boring. Beyond wine, they also make their own olive oil.

In fact, Alda seems to come alive in the olive grove, as she stops to admire the budding

olives on the tree. In their spare time, he is writing a novel, while she plays the piano and

recently wrote a song for their grandson.

Tenuta l’Impostino: A Place to Stop and Rest

On a larger scale, Tenuta l’Impostino takes its name from the impostini -- places where

couriers would stop and change horses before heading on to their next destination during

Medieval times. But, instead of moving on to the next location, the current owners fell in

love with the area and decided to stay.

The 52 hectare property has 25 planted to vines, where a natural amphitheater provides

excellent exposure. The old homestead’s restored farmhouse and stable presently serve as

a restaurant and inn, respectively, providing a wonderful place for tourists to relax and

recharge, while enjoying the estate’s wines.

The first harvest was in 2006 and, in spite of the property’s size, the grapes continue to be

hand harvested. Tenuta I’Impostino’s Vermentino, Ballo Angelico, was one of my favorite

whites, with freshness, minerality and a touch of salinity. Their Montecucco Rosso 2011

was also really lovely, with cherries, earth and spice.

Parmoleto: The Family that Farms Together

As Leonardo Sodi meets us in his parking lot, he glances wistfully across the valley at Cas-

tello Banfi and Brunello territory, seemingly only a whisper away. Yet, he is resigned to

his Montecucco fate and in keeping the family farm in the family.

The 72 hectare estate consists of five hectares of vineyards, three hectares of olive groves

and 65 hectares of cereals, along with 300 pigs and a bed-and-breakfast. The vines were

mostly planted in 2000 and include just over 1 acre of Riesling.

The Sodi family’s historic cellar is 100 years old, but his parents only starting bottling

wine in 1990 and were among the six founders of the DOC. Today, they produce seven

different wines, with a total annual production of 23,000 bottles. The intention is to main-

tain the current size of production because Leonardo is determined to keep it a family

farm. If it becomes too large, it will not be a family farm.

A sparkling wine and full-bodied white round out the predominantly red

portfolio, but a rosato is noticeably absent because as Leonardo explains,

he doesn’t like rosé. Although it needed more time to resolve its tannins,

the Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva 2010 was balanced and elegant with

tart cherry, spice and wood. His Sormonno, a blend of 75% Sangiovese and

25% Cabernet Sauvignon, displayed power and structure along with miner-

ality and spice and was fondly dubbed a “Super Cucco” by fellow journal-

ist, Dave Eckert.

Giorgio Nelli and Alda Chiarini, Poggio al Gello

Fabio Loda, Tenuta l’Impostino

Leonardo Sodi, Parmoleto

Campi Nuovi: Breathing New Life into New Lands

I first met Daniele Rosellini when I visited Chianti Classico in 2011; the agrono-

mist had been instrumental in the Chianti Clas-

sico 2000 research in which the best grape vari-

eties, clones and rootstocks were identified as

part of Chianti Classico’s commitment to im-

proving quality. During this time, Daniele and

his wife, Nadia Riguccini, wished to craft their

own wines, but they needed to stay outside the

Chianti Classico territory to avoid a conflict of

interest with his job.

After much consideration, they purchased prop-

erty within the budding Montecucco denomina-

tion in 2000 with the goal of creating their own

venture. Their land was previously referred to

in historic documents as “Campi Nuovi” (New

Fields), a name they kept as they thought is

fitting to begin their “new life.” Today, their

property is Certified organic and they are also

practicing biodynamics. I didn’t have the op-

portunity to visit his estate during this trip, but

it was a lovely surprise and pleasure to become

reacquainted with him and to taste his wonderful wine. His Montecucco Rosso

2012 was powerful, concentrated and full of intense, dark red fruit, with slight

notes of spice and vanilla.

Those tasting Montecucco wines without a visit to the region will be rewarded

with beautifully balanced, well-made wines, but the voices behind them linger

with me still .

Daniele Rosellini, Campi Nuovi

F or many, Sangiovese and Tuscany are practically synonymous. But, while Chianti and Brunello immediately spring to mind, the less familiar Morellino di Scansano offers equally enjoyable wines by another name.

Situated in the Maremma province, in the southernmost part of Tuscany, the Morellino territory is nearly equidistant between Rome and Florence and centered in the village of Scansano. The vast area includes almost 145,000 acres; however, only 3,705 planted acres (approximately 2%) are registered for the production of this wine, often resulting in long distances between one producer and another.

Unlike Chianti Classico, which boasts a lengthy history, Morellino di Scan-sano has a much shorter tenure. Alt-hough winemaking in the area dates to the Etruscans in the fifth century BCE, the emphasis was on polycul-ture, a practice which still continues today, with large swaths of land given over to cereals and olive groves.

Moreover, as the Roman Empire de-clined, the region was essentially abandoned and became a swampy marshland. Thus, the few remaining inhabitants practiced viticulture solely for personal consumption. In fact, the area was unsuitable for much other than harboring malaria-carrying mos-quitos until it was drained by Mussoli-ni during the 1930s. As such, the wealthy residents of nearby Grosseto would flock to the elevated town of Scansano in summer for relief from the heat and illness.

But, despite the dearth of residents and commerce, winemaking in the area continued. Although it was not close enough to Florence to be well-known or sold outside the area, it gained modest recognition in the late 1800s. Eventually, thanks to the efforts of pioneers such as Fattoria Mantellassi and Moris Farms, the Mo-rellino di Scansano DOC was obtained in 1978 (and promoted to DOCG sta-tus in 2007). Fattoria Le Pupille was another of the first to bottle Morel-lino during the early period.

Opportunity knocks

By the 1990s, the area had attracted

the attention of the Cecchi family.

Sangiovese by Another Name: Morellino di Scansano


Opportunity knocks By the 1990s, the area had attracted the attention of the Cecchi family. Well regarded in Italian viticulture since 1893, the Cecchis arrived in Morellino di Scansano in 1996, seeing great possibilities in this generous land. Ac-cordingly, they established Val delle Rose, which is now one of the largest Morellino producers with over 205 acres currently planted. Their arrival signaled that the area was ready for investment, ultimately luring others to the region, such as Count Guicciardini of Chianti Classico who established Massi di Mandorlaia in 1998.

More recently, the Frescobaldi family established Am-miraglia in the region, choosing to produce Morellino after its initial project with Mondavi was aborted. But, the area is also providing a welcome haven for small pro-ducers such as Alberto Tanzini, a former Milanese financi-er who established Roccapesta in 2002 in pursuit of a more relaxed lifestyle and better climate; having never made wine before, he naively thought he would have time to go to the beach. Similarly, brothers Bernardo and Umberto Valle, owners of Poggio Trevvalle, had previous-ly been one of Green Giant’s top spinach growers in Pu-glia, but wanted a better life for their families than the organized crime that dominated the region. Today, Mo-rellino is home to just under 400 growers, with 90 differ-ent producers making wine under their own label.

Giuseppe Mantellassi, Fattoria Mantellassi

Cecchi’s Val delle Rose

http://palatepress.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Vineyards-near-the-sea.jpg


Starring roles and supporting players As in many other Tuscan wines, the key grape is Sangiovese – essentially the same variety found elsewhere in the region and throughout Italy for that matter. But, here, it became known as Morellino, said to be named for the brown color of the local hors-es, which the grapes resemble (another possible etymology derives from the morello cherry). The bay horses called “Morelli” have long been associated with the area having been used to pull the carriages of public officials and their families as they decamped to

Scansano for the summer.

Sangiovese must make up at least 85% of any Morellino di Scansano wine, with up to 100% Sangio-vese permitted. Not surprisingly, the variety accounts for over 88% of plantings. For the remaining balance, producers can choose among various indigenous or international red varieties. Among the more notable local options are canaiolo nero, malvasia nera, montepulciano and ciliegiolo (chee-lee-eh-JOE-lo), named for the Italian word for cherry (ciliegia) due to the aromas and flavors it adds and which we took to calling “G.I. Joe” for ease of pronunciation.

Thanks to Napoleon’s former control of the region, cabernet sauvignon, mer-lot, syrah and cabernet franc are allowed. Similarly, the Spanish left behind two grapes – alicante bouchet and grenache – which are also authorized.

However, despite this inclusion of other varieties, producers are careful to allow the Sangiovese grape to shine through, preferring to craft a true ex-pression of the variety. In this way, blending partners are only used to enrich and round-out the wine, but not cover up the character of Sangiovese.

The sea is only a whisper away But, while the wines of Morellino di Scansano are similar to those of Chianti and Chianti Classico in their grape vari-eties, the wines are different in style. Most importantly, the Morellino area is located closer to the Tyrrhenian Sea and has a much warmer climate than its nearby Chianti cousins.

Due to the significant influence from its southerly posi-tion – fantastic sun exposure, steady sea breezes and low humidity – the vines yield riper grapes with more concen-tration and softer tannins that still retain their freshness. As Umberto Tanzini of Roccapesta noted, “Maremma is a place where the sun makes a bigger difference than in Brunello or Chianti, giving a high maturation of the grapes

and a softer style of wine, but not necessarily less elegant.”

In general, the wines are dominated by fresh aromas of cherry and pomegranate, with bright acidity and low tannins. What was equally evident was a lack of overt tomato leaf character so often associated with Chianti Classico.

Further, the riper character of the grapes means that they require shorter oak aging regimens and

most producers are deliberately light on their use of wood compared to other Tuscan reds. Moreo-

ver, the rules don’t specify size or age of oak. Frequently, producers use second-hand barrels and

the use of older, larger vessels to limit oak influence has become increasingly popular.

Following the rules With regard to aging, the legislation delineates two distinct styles of wines – the “Fresh” base style, which may be released as early as March 1 following the harvest and “Riserva” level wines, which must be aged for a minimum of two years, with at least one of those in wooden barrels.

The fresh reds offer up bright cherry fruit, good acidity and no oak influence, while the more serious styles of wine are produced as Riserva, which display firmer tannins as well as vanilla and spice. Some of these would benefit from some time in bottle to soften the tannins, but the majority of the Riservas we tasted were ready to drink upon release.

Umberto Valle,

Poggio Trevvalle

Alberto Tanzini,

Roccapesta

Giulio Parentini,

Moris Farms

Ferdinando Guicciardini, Massi di Mandorlaia


Admittedly, a third, unofficial style is also produced, with wines that gener-ally spend four to eight months in wood before release. While this is not a true category in its own right, there is movement toward creating a formal option in the disciplinary code to better distinguish this mid-way style.

Overall, Morellino wines provide good value with most priced under $20.00. The fresh reds typically average $12.00 to $15.00, while Riserva level wines run $18.00-$22.00.

Mother Nature has been a bit incon-sistent over the past several years, with some vintages being more diffi-cult than others. The general consen-sus was that 2010 and 2013 were es-pecially good vintages, while 2012 and 2014 were the most challenging due to overly hot and overly wet condi-tions, respectively. However, in spite of these challenges, producers were still able to make good wines; they simply diverted their top grapes into their entry-level wines. They are her-alding an excellent vintage for 2015, with some winemakers proclaiming that this season offered the best con-ditions they have seen in the last 25 years. Everyone was hopeful, but only time will tell.


S ituated southeast of Florence and Siena, the hilltop town of Montepulciano has a long and storied

history with wine. Recent findings confirm that a settlement was in existence as far back as the 3rd

century BCE, while an old legend attributes the founding of the town to an Etruscan king. While the

Etruscans were known to produce wine in the area, formal documentation dates the start of wine production

in the year 789.

Although perhaps less well known than its neighbor Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

has developed a strong reputation for its wines beginning in the 17th century. In 1685, the poet Francesco

Redi wrote, “Montepulciano of every wine is king.” In the late 18th

century, the wine was given its “noble”

title when described by G.F. Neri and was written about by Voltaire, Alexandre Dumas and Thomas Jeffer-

son. More recently, the Italian pop band Elio e le Storie Tese sang, “Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is a great

syrup for the throat for a singer like me…” Given its illustrious past, the wine was among the first to receive

DOCG status in 1980.

Like Chianti Classico, the wine is generally a Sangiovese-based blend, which is referred to locally as Prugno-lo gentile and can encompass 70 to 100% of the wine. The remainder is made up of other red varieties in-cluding Colorino, Canaiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot. In addition to the specified grape varieties, the regular wines must be aged for a minimum of two years prior to release with at least one year in wood. Simi-larly, the Riserva wines must complete a total of three years of aging. While some producers do still use old oak casks, the trend has been toward new oak barrels. Aside from its winemaking heritage, Montepulciano has been a well-regarded Tuscan town. It served as a

strategic position during medieval times and was an ally and possession of Florence. sported a golden age

during the mid-16th century when many great architects worked and lived in Montepulciano as the Piazza

Grande in the city’s center can attest.

Even earlier, the area became a religious center after the fall of Rome. However, when the papal residence

was transferred from Avignon back to Rome, some of the noble families followed the Pope and became

known as Avignonesi. The Avignonesi family eventually split into three branches, settling in Rome, Siena

and Montepulciano.

It was in Montepulciano that Palazzo Avignonesi was built in the 17th century, home not only to the palace,

but also to the cellars. The winery was established as a commercial venture in 1974 by the Falvo brothers,

who invested in the property and created some of the wines that are still produced today. In 2009, Avignone-

si was purchased by ex-Belgium lawyer, Virginie Saverys. With a devotion to terroir and homepathic medi-

cine, Virginie kept the original founder’s name, but has transformed the estate to organic and biodynamic

farming methods.

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepluciano 2012

Aromas of cherry, earth, wet leaves and a hint of oak greet the nose. On the palate, the medium-to-full bod-

ied wine displays lush cherry fruit with olive, earth and oak notes, culminating in long length.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano: A Wine of Poets & Kings

S tuck in a wine rut? Instead of reaching for the same-old

grape varieties, why not try a versatile Vermentino? This Mediterranean grape offers up unoaked, fresh fruit fla-vors with bright acidity. Mas-querading under a myriad of synonyms, the food-friendly grape is also known as Rolle (France’s Provence and Cor-sica), Favorita (Piedmont) and Pigato (Liguria).

Widely planted in Tuscany, Vermentino is the main white variety found in Montecucco and within the Maremma. These dry, white wines typi-cally display peach and pear fruit aromas with an occa-sional floral or spice note.

However, Vermentino proba-bly shines brightest on the island of Sardinia where it has earned the highest desig-nation for quality wine: Ver-mentino di Gallura DOCG. It was here that the vines were initially introduced to the island from Corsica in the early 1800s. Situated on the northeast of the island, Gal-lura’s name translates as an area located on high ground due to its elevation. The spot is also prized for its granite soils, which provide a mineral character to the wines, while the proximity to the sea adds a note of salinity.

One of the leading wineries in the area is Vigne Surrau, which produces 300,000 bot-tles annually. Although they also produce wines from Can-nonau and Carignano, 60% of the winery’s production is dedicated to white wines, especially from Vermentino.

Versatile V

http://www.vignesurrau.it/


In this regard, they make a range of styles from the variety, including dry, sweet and sparkling. Like the people on the island (Sardinia is known for being among the top five places in the world where people live the longest), these Ver-mentinos have great longevity. They can easily age for five to seven years due the granitic soils, and, while they lose some of their freshness similar to aged Riesling, they retain their beautiful structural elements and evolve in the bottle.

Here are a few bottles to seek out as you expand your grape horizons.

ColleMassari Irisse 2013, Montecucco DOC, Tuscany, Italy An 85% Vermentino - 15% Grechetto blend that spends ten months aged in large oak vessels, this wine displays aro-mas and flavors of smoke, citrus and mineral with an angular structure and a hint of spice in the finish.

ColleMassari Melacce 2014, Montecucco Vermentino DOC, Tuscany, Italy A very fresh wine with high acidity and a pleasing palate of mineral, pear and peach notes.

La Mora Vermentino 2014, Maremma Toscana DOC, Italy Very floral nose joined by flavors of peach and pear on the round palate.

Marchesi de Frescobaldi Massovivo Ammiraglia Vermentino 2014 IGP Toscana,Tuscany, Italy Having spent time on the lees, this elegant wine has a lovely waxy texture along with pear and peach flavors, culminat-ing in long length.

Massi di Mandorlaia Vermentino 2014, IGT Costa Toscana,Tuscany, Italy Aromas of peach, pear and mineral persist on the fresh palate with good acidity and long length.

Moris Farms Vermentino 2014, IGT Toscana, Italy Tropical in style with intense peach fruit, floral and spice notes on the nose and palate.

Prato al Pozzo Vermentino 2014, Maremma Toscana DOC,Tuscany, Italy Bright and fresh with high acidity and lots of citrus and pear along with saline and mineral characteristics.

Ribusieri Vermentino Chiaranotte 2014, Montecucco DOC,Tuscany, Italy This wine shows ripe peach fruit with lanolin and spice, along with medium acidity.

Tenuta I’Impostino Ballo Angelico IGP Toscano Vermentino, Italy There is almost no fruit on this wine; instead, it offers up overt mineral, chalk and salty notes on the rich palate.

Val delle Rose Litorale Vermentino 2014, Maremma Toscana DOC,Tuscany, Italy With 10% Sauvignon Blanc in the blend, this wine displays a nice richness on the palate with pear and lanolin, along with fresh acidity.

Vigne Surrau Branu Vermentino di Gallura DOCG 2014, Sardegna, Italy Pronounced floral aromas give way to ripe peach and pear on the palate with bright acidity, richness and long length.

Vigne Surrau Sciala Vermentino di Gallura DOCG Superiore 2014, Sardegna, Italy Named for the Italian word for “enjoy,” this higher-end version of Vermentino offers a more restrained nose, but with more richness and texture on the medium-full palate thanks to 24 hours of skin contact and five months on the lees, along with distinct salinity and minerality.

Vigne Surrau Sole di Surrau IGT Isola dei Nuraghi Passito di Vermentino 2014, Sardegna, Italy

This unctuous dessert wine offers up both fresh and dried apricot notes accompanied by honey and orange peel; it is

beautifully balanced with bright acidity.

ersatile Vermentino: Rolle with it!


O nce upon a time (also known as several years ago), we found a scrap of plastic film that read, “Assembly of Dust. Some Assembly Required.” Not knowing what it was or what is meant, it was one of the strangest and most confusing things we ever found on our kitchen counter. After much scratching of our collective heads, we finally identified the scrap as having come from the wrapper of a music CD that a houseguest had opened earlier that day. (It turns out that Assembly of Dust is the name of a band). The creation of Champagne is truly like that moment – perplexing and puzzling – with lots of assembly re-quired. In fact, lots is an understate-ment as evidenced by a recent visit from winemaker Régis Camus of Champagne House, Piper-Heidsieck.

During his trip to New York, Camus offered up a unique glimpse into this creation process, known as assem-blage, with a tutored vin clairs tasting. A vin clair is a still wine (not sparkling) that has been produced in anticipa-tion of making the blend that will ulti-mately be bottled for the secondary fermentation; in essence, each vin clair is the equivalent of a single puz-zle piece.

Within the Champagne region, there are hundreds of puzzle pieces to be considered. First, there is grape varie-ty; the permitted grapes include Char-donnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Then, there are the approxi-mately 100 different crus (top vine-yards) from which the grapes are sourced. Third is a Champagne House’s Reserve wines – wines saved from previous vintages (and kept dis-tinctly by individual vintage).

Pieces of the Puzzle: Putting Together a Glass of Champagne


And finally, there is the time that the wine is aged on its lees as the last piece of the puzzle, which is dictated in part by law (a mini-mum of 15 months for non-vintage and three years for vintage) and by house style, which typically exceed the minimums.

After each harvest, the winemaker and his team start with a blank canvas as the grapes are brought to the winery. Each parcel is fermented separately into wine, becoming the multitude of puzzle pieces – or vin clairs – available to the team. Their mission, which they choose to accept each year, is to taste through the individual wines and build the puzzle based upon the given vintage.

There is no printed box to follow, instead, the “picture” for these puzzle pieces comes in the shape of a bottle – the bottle of the wine produced the year before (and the year before that…). More specifically, the goal is to replicate the house style for each of the House’s wines. By achieving this goal, consumers can be sure that each and every time they buy a bottle of Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV, it will taste precisely the same.

At Camus’ tasting, we were given five different samples that had been part of the 2014 assemblage for the Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV: Chardonnay Avize Cru 2014, Pinot Noir 2015 Verzy Cru, Pinot Meunier 2014 Ecueil Cru, Chardonnay 2009 Avize Cru and Pinot Noir 2008 Verzy Cru.

As in working to piece together a visual puzzle, each vin clair provides a sought-after characteristic that helps to shape the resulting wine; each piece adding something that would be missing without it. For instance, the Chardonnay 2014 Avize Cru was particularly prized for its structure and tension as well as its freshness, fruit and minerality. Meanwhile, the older Chardonnay provided more pronounced minerality and was richer, giving some needed depth to the final blend.

In all, the 2014 assemblage contained 55% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Meunier, representing approximately 110 different puzzle pieces, inclusive of 10% Reserve wines. It’s enough to make one dizzy (and that’s not accounting for the alcohol). However, the vin clair tasting did offer some insight into this complex process and gave me a renewed respect for these master tasters.

I prefer to leave the assembly to the Chef du Cave and drink the finished product; perhaps it will sustain me as I pour over my next 1,000-piece jigsaw puzzle.

All about the... Bubbles


A s sparkling wines continue to grow in sales in the U.S., wine drinkers are looking for alternatives to Champagne, but what about imports from Spain?

Like Champagne, Cava is produced using the Traditional Method of sparkling wine. Similarly, Cava is most often a blend of varieties based primarily on the triumvirate of the indigenous Xarel-lo, Macabeo and Parellada. And here, as in sparkling wine regions elsewhere, some producers are playing with Champagne’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (permitted in 2002 and 2008 respectively) in their pursuit of producing elegant, high-end Cavas.

Carving out its own niche in the oceans of Cava that wash up on the

U.S. shore each year, Segura Viudas offers up a quartet of Cavas,

which add a festive air to the evening and pair well with food. Owned

by the Ferrer family in the heart of Cava country (in Sant SadurnÃ-

d’Anoia, near Barcelona, Spain), this wine estate dates to the 11th cen-

tury and is home to over 100 years of winemaking.

Segura Viudas Brut NV , Catalonia, Spain, $10.00

This traditional style blend brings together the three indigenous Cava

varieties – Macabeo, Parellada, Xarello – and is aged for 15 months

for on the lees. As a result, the wine offers up yeasty aromas, along

with notes of apple and nectarine. It has medium acidity and medium

length.

Segura Viudas Brut Rosé NV, Catalonia, Spain, $10.00

A blend of 90% Trepat and 10% Garnacha, this pink-hued sparkler

spends a minimum of 12 months aging on the lees before disgorge-

ment. Bright cherry aromas greet the nose, while the dry palate is nice

and round with flavors of cherries, strawberries and a hint of earthiness

before culminating in long length.

Segura Viudas Gran Cuvée Reserva NV, Catalonia, Spain, $14.00 This a new venture for the estate and coincides with repackaging of the

full line. Made only in exceptional years, this blend of traditional Ma-cabeo and Parellada grapes is topped off with Chardonnay and Pinot

Noir before spending 15 months aging on the lees. This wine is much more similar in style to Champagne with its very yeasty, toasty aromas

and flavors and long length.

Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad NV, Catalonia, Spain, $25.00 With its metallic adornments on both the bottle and at its base, it is

evident that Reserva Heredad is intended to be the luxury product in this group. Along these lines, the wine is produced solely from the first

pressing and is aged in bottle on the lees for 30 months before dis-gorgement. It has a toasty nose, with a creamy mousse and nice crisp

acidity, with flavors of apple and citrus.

drinking wisely and well: sangiovese spoken here

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