fashion draping techniques

FASHION DRAPING TECHNIQUES

A STEP-BY-STEP VISUAL

GUIDE TO FASHION DESIGN

PRESENTED BY :

KHUSHBOO KHUNTWAL

B. Sc. FT. 1ST YEAR DIPLOMA

FASHION TECHNOLOGY

SUBMITTED TO

DEZYEN E COLE COLLEGE TOWARDS

PRACTICAL FULFILLMENT FOR THE AWARDS

OF

ADVNCE DIPLOMA IN FASHION TECHNOLOGY

SUBMITTED BY

KHUSHBOO KUHNTWAL

ADVANCE DIPLOMA IN FASHION TECNOLOGY

ADVISER

MADHURI TANDON

DEZYNE E COLE COLLEGE AJMER 2010-2011

BASIC BODICE BLOCK

PREPARING THE FABRC-FRONT

1. Measure length for the front bodice along the straight of

grain from the neck band to the waist and add 5inches. Snip

and tear the fabric this length.

2. Measure the width for the front bodice along the cross grain

from the center front of the dress from to the side seam at

the bust level and add 5 inches. Snip and tear the fabric this

width block and press the fabric at this time.

3. Draw the center front grain line 1inches from the edge.

Press under.

NOTE: - The selvage is to your left hand and the torn edge is

to your right hand.

4. Using on l-square ruler, draw a perfect cross grain line in the

center of the fabric panel.

This cross grain line will be referred to as the bus level line.

1. Measure on the dress from the distance from the center

front to the apex. Measure and cross mark the apex this

distance the bust level of the fabric.

2. Measure from the apex to the side seam at the bust level on

the dress form. Measure and cross mark this side seam

distance on the bust level of the fabric.

3. Draw the center of the princess panel line. Divide in half the

distance from the apex to the side seam at the bust level.

Using an l-square ruler, draw a line parallel to the center

front grain line at this divided position squaring down from

the bust level.

BASIC BODICE BLOCK

DRAPING STEPS- FRONT

1. Pin the apex mark on the fabric to the apex position on the

dress form.

2. Pin the center front grain line fold to the fabric to the center

front position of the dress form .Anchor pins at center front

and neck and center front waist. An additional pin may be

needed at the bust level tape.

1. Pin the center of the princess panel line of the fabric exactly

in the center of the princess panel of the dress form. Anchor

pins at the waist line and the cross grain. Align a pin the

from cross grain.

NOTE:- The purpose for centering the princess panel line is

to be sure the cross grain line is perfectly aligned check that

the length wise grain is parallel to center front and

perpendicular to the cross grain.

2. Clip the waist line fabric at the center of the princess panel.

From the bottom edge up to the waist seam tape.

3. The excess fabric between the center front waist positions

becomes the front waist dart. Drape and pin the excess

fabric in place on the princess seam as the front waist dart.

Excess fabric is folded toward the center front.

4. Smooth and drape the reminder of the waist line fabric

across the waist tape till the fabric passes the side seam pin

the side seam waist corner. Also drape the reminder of the

front side seam pass the side seam and flat arm plate. Pin in

place.

5. Drape the neckline by trimming the excess fabric around the

neck area and clipping at internals. Smooth the neckline in

place. Drape and smooth the fabric over the shoulder seam

of the dress form. Just pass the princess seam pin in place.

6. The excess fabric that falls between the neckline and the

shoulder/ armhole area becomes the amount of the

shoulder dart this amount various from one bust size to

another.

1. Fold and pin this excess fabric on the shoulder princess

seam of the dress from. The excess fabric is folded towards

the center front neck.

2. Mark all key areas of the dress form to the fabric.

1. Neck line

Cross mark at center front neck and at neckline corner

lightly mark reminder of neck line.

2. Shoulder seam and shoulder dart.

a.)Top at shoulder seam ridge.

b.) Middle at screw level.

c.) Cross mark bottom at side seam.

3. Waist line and waist dart.

4. Side seam lightly mark cross mark center front waist at

Side Seam and both side of the dart.

BASIC BODICE BLOCK

PREPARING THE FABRIC- BACK

1. Measure length for the back bodice along the straight of

grain from the neck band to the waist and add 5 inches.

2. Measure the width of for the back bodice along the cross

grain from the center back seam at the under arm and add 5

inches.

3. Draw the center back grain line 1from the torn edge and

press under.

1. Cross mark the center back neck line position 3 inches below

the top of the fabric on the center back grain line.

2. Measure down 41/4 from the back neck line mark. Using an

l-square ruler draw a perfect cross grain line at this position

(This is considered the shoulder blade level).

NOTE:-This 41/4 measurement represents one fourth of

the distance from center back neck to waist for a size 8 or 10

womens figure.

Also, measure the distance from center back to the arm

plate at the shoulder level of the dress from. Measure and

cross mark this back shoulder distance on the fabric at the

shoulder blade level line.

BASIC BODICE BLOCK

DRAPING STEPS BACK

1. Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric to the center

back position on the dress from.

Align the neck line position mark of the fabric to the center

back neck position on the dress from.

2. Pin and drape the back cross grain line of the fabric to the

shoulder blade level on the dress from. Pin the arm plate

cross mark away from plate (At armhole ridge).

Distribute excess ease along shoulder blade level.

NOTE:-This line is correctly draped in to position when the drape

hangs freckly and evenly without any drag or pulled

down look. Also, the lower edge of the drape shoulder hangs

parallel to the floor.

1. Drape in the back waist line dart (7long and 11/4wide)

Smooth the fabric towards the side seam till the fabric

passes the princess seam.

Cross mark at the princess/ Waist seam measure and cross

mark 7 up from the waist line on the back princess seam.

At the waist line fold the princess seam cross mark to the

11/4 mark. Taper the dart to nothing at the 7mark.

2. Clip the waist line fabric at the center of the princess panel

up to the button of the waist seam tape. Smooth the fabric

across the waist tape till the fabric passes the side seam. Pin

at the side seam/ waist corner.

3. Drape the back side seam by smoothing the fabric pat the

side seam and flat over the dress from pin in place.

4. Drape and smooth the back neck line by carefully trimming

the excess fabric around the neck area and clipping at

intervals. Continue to smooth the fabric over the shoulder of

the dress form and pin in place.

5. Drape in the back shoulder dart (3long and wide) straight

at the neck line. Smooth the fabric over the shoulder seam

of the dress form to the princess seam and cross mark on

the princess seam at the shoulder, measure towards the

armhole and cross mark. Also on the princess seam

measure down 3 from the shoulder seam. Fold the fabric

from the shoulder seam cross mark to the cross mark.

Taper the dart to nothing at the 3 cross mark.

6. Mark all key area of the dress from to the fabric.

Neck line

Cross mark at center back neck and at neck line/

shoulder corner. Lightly mark remainder of neck line.

Shoulder seam and shoulder dart.

Lightly mark shoulder seam and cross mark shoulder

dart and shoulder ridge corner.

Arm plate.

a) Top at shoulder seam ridge.

b) Middle at screw level.

c) Bottom at the side seam cross mark.

Side seam lightly mark

Waist line and waist dart seam waist and both side of

the dart.

Check the drape by spinning the front and back side seam

and front and back shoulder seam together before

proceeding to the next steps.

1. Remove the fabric from the dress from and lay flat on table.

If you are planning to true up the fabric on the paper

complete the following steps.

a) Draw in the straight of grain and cross grain on the

pattern paper. Place the fabric on top of the paper.

Notching the straight of grain and cross grain.

b) With a trace wheel, transfer all the fabric markings on the

paper.

2. Draw a short go degree angle at-

Center front neck (1/4)

Center front waist (1/2)

Center back neck (1)

Center back waist (1)

1. Draw in the front darts using a straight ruler.

Front waist darts (1 from the open through the waist dart

cross mark)

Front shoulder dart (1 from the open through the shoulder

dart cross mark)

Back waist dart (vanishing point through waist dart cross

mark)

Back shoulder dart (vanishing point to back waist dart

through shoulder dart connect other shoulder dart cross

mark.

PRINCESS PANEL

1. Measure the length for the front and back panel (along the

straight of grain) from the neck band to the waist and add 5

snip and tear the fabric this length.

2. Fold the fabric from selvage to selvage and snip and tear the

fabric piece in half length wise.

Use one piece for the front panels and the other piece for

the back panel.

1. Measure the width for the center front panel (along the

cross grain) from the center front of the dress from to the

princess seam at the apex, and add 4.

Using one of the fabric pieces prepared in step 2, snip and

tear the fabric this width.

Use the remaining front piece for the side front panel.

2. Measure the width for the center back panel from the

center back of the dress from to the back princess seam at

the shoulder blade level.

And add 4. Using the second fabric piece prepared in step 2

snip and tear the fabric this width.

Use the remaining back fabric piece for the side back panel.

3. Draw the grain line for the center front panel 1 from the

torn edge press under.

4. Draw the cross grain line for the front panel in the center of

the both panel.

5. Measure the dress form from center front to the apex,

measure and cross mark the apex this distance of the cross

grain line.

6. Draw the grain line for the center back panel 1 from the

torn edge. Press under.

Draw the grain line for the side back panel in the center of

the fabric piece.

7. Draw the cross grain line for both back panels 8 from the

top of the fabric edge.

THE PRINCESS BODICEBLOCK

DRAPING STEPS

CENTER FRONT PANEL

1. Pin the apex cross marks on the fabric to the apex position

on the dress from.

2. Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric to the center

position of the dress from.

Anchor pins at center front neck and center front waist. An

additional pin may be needed at the bust level tape.

3. Drape the neck line trimming the excess fabric around the

neck area and clipping at intervals. Smooth the neck line in

place.

4. Drape and smooth the waist line place from center front to

just past the princess seam. Pin in place.

5. Mark all key area of the dress from on the center front

panel.

Neck line

Waist line

Princess seam and style line

Notches

Shoulder seam

6. True up center front panel. Add seam allowance and trim all

excess fabric place panel back on the dress from.

SIDE FRONT PRINCESS PANEL

1. Pin the grain line of the side front panel to the center of the

front princess panel on the dress from matching the cross

grain of the side seam bust panel to the cross grain of the

center front panel.

Anchors pins on the cross grain at the bust level. Place

another anchor pin on the straight of grain at the waist line.

1. Clip the waist line at the center of the front princess panel

up to the bottom of the waist line seam tape.

Drape and smooth the waist line on place.

2. From the grain line to the side front panel smooth the fabric

past the side seam of the dress from do not allow the grain

line to slip out of position. Pin the side seam in place.

3. Drape the shoulder by carefully smoothing the excess fabric

above the bust level up and over the dress from.

NOTE: - The grain line will look as if it is angled toward the

neck line.

4. Smooth the fabric over the princess seam add pin the

princess seam in place.

NOTE: - The excess fabric will drape over the bust level area

creating ease at the princess seam between the notches.

5. Mark all key areas of the dress from on the side front panel.

Princess seam and style line notches (match the center front

panel notches)

Arm plate

Shoulder seam at ridge

Middle of plate at screw level

Bottom of plate at side seam

Shoulder seam

Side seam

Waist line

1. Remove the side front panel from the dress from and true

up all the lines. Add seam allowance.

Trim excess fabric, leaving all seams allowance. Pin to front

panel and return to check seam notches and balance.

THE PRINCESS BODICEBLOCK

DRAPING STEPS

CENTER BACK PRINCESS PANNEL

1. Pin the center back grain line fold of the fabric to the center

back position of the dress from.

Align and line the cross grain to the shoulder blade level of

the dress from.

1. Drape and smooth the back waist line from center back to

just pass the princess seam. Pin the waist line in place.

2. Drape and smooth the back neck line by carefully trimming

the excess fabric around the neck area and clipping at

intervals.

Continue to smooth the fabric over the shoulder of the dress

from and pin in place.

1. Mark all key areas of the dress from on the center back

panel

Neck line

Waist line

Shoulder seam

Back princess seam and style line notches (a double notch is

used in the back)

2. Remove the center back panel drape from and true up all

lines. Add seam allowance trim all excess fabric, leaving all

seam allowance. Place this center back drape on the dress

from.

THE PRINCESS BODICE BLOCK

DRAPING STEPS

SIDE BACK PRINCESS PANEL

1. Pin the grain line of the side back panel to the center of the

back princess panel on the dress from matching all cross

grain at the shoulder blade.

2. Clip the waist line at the side back panel up to the bottom of

the waist seam tape. Smooth and pin the waist line in place.

3. From the grain of the side back panel. Smooth the fabric

past the side seam of the dress from. Do not allow the grain

line to slip out of position. Pin the side seam in place.

4. Drape the shoulder by smoothing the excess fabric from

above the shoulder level up and over the shoulder seam of

the dress from.

NOTE: - The grain line will look as if it is angle toward the

neck line (over the cross grain).

1. From the grain line of the side back panel smooth the fabric

past the princess seam of the dress from. Do not allow the

grain line to slip out of position. Pin the princess seam in

place.

2. Mark all key areas of the dress from on the side back panel.

Princess seam and style line notches (match to center back

panel double notches)

Arm plate

Shoulder seam at ridge.

Middle of plate at screw level.

Bottom of plate at side seam

Side waist

Waist line

3. Remove the drape from and true up all lines. Add seam

allowance trim all excess fabric, leaving all seam allowance.

Pin the entire garment together and place the drape on the

dress from check for accuracy fit and hang.

THE TORSO LENGTH PRINCESS BODICE BLOCK

DRAPING THE FABRIC

1. Measure the length for the front and back panel (along the

straight grain) from the neck band to the hip area and add

5. Snip the tear the fabric this length.

2. Fold the fabric from salvage to salvage snip and tear the

fabric piece in half length wise.

Use one piece for the front panel and the other piece for the

back panel.

3. Measure the width for the center panel (along the cross

grain) from front of the dress from to the princess seam at

the open and add 5.

Snip and tear the fabric this width use the remaining fabric

piece for the side front panel.

4. Draw the grain line for the center front panel 1 from the


5. Draw the grain line for the side front panel in the center of

the fabric piece.

6. Draw the cross grain lines for the front and side front panel

12 from the top edge of the fabric.

7. Measure the dress from center front to the open. Measure

and cross mark the apex. This distance on the center front

panel on the cross grain line.

8. Draw the grain line for the center back panel 1 from the


Draw the grain line for the side back panel, in the center of

the fabric piece.

9. Draw the cross grain line for both back panels 8". From the

top of the fabric edge.


DRAPING STEPS

CENTER FRONT TORSO PRINCESS PANEL

1. Pin the open cross mark on the fabric to the open position

on the dress from.

2. Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric on the center

position of the dress from. Anchor pins at center front neck

and center front hip. An additional pin may be needed at the

bust level tape.

3. Drape the neck line by trimming the excess fabric around

the neck area and clipping a intervals. Smooth the neck line

in place.

Drape and smooth the shoulder over the shoulder seam of

the dress from just past the princess seam. Pin in place.

4. Clip the waist line at the princess seam. Drape and smooth

the fabric of the center front panel just past the princess

seam.

NOTE: - The fabric at the waist line will be smooth but not

snug tight.

1. Mark all key areas of the dress from on the center front

panel.

Neck line

Princess seam and style line notches (2 above and below

open)

Shoulder seam

2. True up the center front panel. Add seam allowance trim all

excess fabric leaving. Place back on the dress from.

THE TORSO LENGTH PINCESS BODICE BLOCK

DRAPING STEPS

SIDE FRONT TORSO PRINCESS PANEL

1. Pin the grain line of the side front panel to the center of the

front princess panel on the dress from notching the cross

grain of the side bust panel to the cross grain at the bust

level. Place another anchor pin on the straight of grain at the

waist line.

2. Clip the waist line at the side seam of the side front panel.

From the grain line of the side front panel. Smooth the fabric

past the side seam.

Continue to smooth the fabric flat over the arm plate. Do

not allow the grain line to slip out of position. Pin the side

seam in place.

1. Drape the shoulder by carefully smoothing the excess fabric

above the bust level up and over the shoulder of the dress

from.


neck line above the bust level.

2. Clip the waist line at the princess seam smooth the fabric

over the princess seam and pin in place.

NOTE: - The excess fabric will drape over the bust level

area creating ease at the princess seam between the notches.

3. Mark all key area of the dress from on the side front panel.

a.) Princess seam and style line notches (match to center

front panel notches).

b.) Arm plate

Shoulder seam at ridge.

Middle of plate at screw level

Bottom of plot at side seam

c.) Shoulder seam

d.) Side seam

4. Remove the side front panel from the dress from and true

up all lines. Add seam allowance.

Trim all excess fabric, leaving all seam allowance pin to front

panel front and place on the dress from to check seams,

notches and balance.


DRAPING STEPS

SIDE FRONT TORSO PRINCESS PANEL

1. Pin the grain line of the side back panel to the center of back

princess panel on the dress form matching all cross grain at

the shoulder blade level.

2. Clip the waist line at the side seam. Drape and smooth fabric

past the side seam and flat over the dress form. Pin in place.

3. Drape the shoulder by smoothing the excess fabric from

above the shoulder blade level up and over the shoulder

seam of the dress form.


neckline (above the cross grain)

4. Clip the waist line at the princess seam of the side back

panel. From the grain line of the side back panel. Smooth

the fabric past the princess seam of the dress form. Do not

allow the grain line to slip out of position. Pin the princess

seam in place.

5. Mark all key areas of the dress form on the side back

Panel.

- Princess seam and style line notches

(Match to center back panel double notches)

- Arm plate

- Shoulder seam at ridge

- Middle of plate at screw level

- Shoulder seam

- Side seam.

1. Remove the drape from the dress form and true up all lines.

Add seam allowance. Trim all excess fabric leaving all seam

allowance.

Pin the entire garment together and place the drape on the

dress form. Check for accuracy, fit and hang.


DRAPINGBSTEPS

CENTER BACK TORSO PRINCESS PANEL

1. Pin the center back grain line fold of the fabric to the

center back position of the dress from.

Align and pin the cross grain to the shoulder blade level of

the dress from.

2. Drape and smooth the back neck line by carefully

trimming the excess fabric around the neck area and

clipping at intervals.

Continue to drape and smooth the shoulder over the

shoulder of the dress from and pin in place.

3. Clip the waist line at the princess seam. Drape and

smooth the fabric pat the princess seam and pin in

place.

Note: - The waist areas will drape smoothly. But will not be

snug tight.

1. Mark all key area of the dress form on the center back

panel.

- Neck line

- Shoulder seam

- Back princess seam and style line notches.

- (A double notch is used in back)

2. Remove the center back panel drape from the dress

form and true up all lines. Add seam allowance. Trim,

leaving all seam allowance. Place.

THE BASIC STRAIGHT SKIRT BLOCK

PREPARING THE

FRONT

1. Preparing the dress form measure down 7 from the waist

line on the center front of the dress form .This is the hip

level. Place will tape (or measuring tape) parallel to the

dress form at this hip level and remove the tape.

2. Measure the length (along the cross grain) for the front and

back skirt from 2 above the waist to the bottom of the

dress form. Add 4 ship and tear the fabric this length.

1. Measure the width (along the cross grain) for the front and

back skirt at the hip level from to the side seam. Add 3 ship

and tear the fabric this width.

2. Draw the center front center back grain lines on the fabric

1 from the turn edge. Press under.

3. Mark the center front waist position measure down 2 from

the top of the fabric at the center front fold pencil in a waist

line mark at the position.

4. Using on (l-square ruler, draw perfect cross grain at the hip

level for the front and back skirt. On the skirt front, measure

down 7 from the waist line mark on the skirt back, measure

down 9 on the grain line) from the top of the fabric .

5. Determined the front side seam. Measure from center front

to the side seam (at the hip level) and add ease. Transfer

this measurement to the fabric. Using the mark draw a side

seams perfectly parallel to the center front grain line.

6. Determined the back side seam. Measure from center back

to the side seams (at the hip level) and add for ease.

Transfer this measurement to the fabric. Using this mark,

draw a side seams perfectly parallel to the center back grain

line.

1. Draw a second line from the side seam on both the front

and back skirt .This line will be used to help drape in the

waist line.

THE BASIC STRAIGTH SKIRT BLOCK

DRAPING STEP FRONT

1. Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric on the center

front position of the dress from matching the cross grain of

the fabric to the hip level on the dress from.

2. Smooth and pin the cross grain to the fabric (evenly

distributing the ease) across the dress from to the side

seam.

Be sure the fabric cross grain is parallel to the floor and the

side seam match.

Pin the cross grain and side seam (below the hip level) to the

dress from.

3. Carefully drape and pin the front line to the side seam/

waist of the dress from.

NOTE: - When this side seam/ waist corner is draped

correctly, a slight gap will occur automatically at the side

seam above the hip level.

4. Drape in two darts at the front waist line. Smooth the fabric

from the center front to the princess seam.

Cross mark the waist line at the princess seams. Drape in the

first dart (one half of the excess fabric) on the princess seam

line.

Measure over on the waist line 11/4 from the first dart.

Place a second cross mark at this position clip the waist line

and drape in the second dart (the remaining half of the

excess fabric) at this second cross mark.

THE BASIC SRAIGHT SKIRT BLOCK

DRAPING STEP BACK

1. Match the back side seam at the hip level to the front

side seam at the hip level.

NOTE: - The side seam should match and be perfectly

parallel to each other.

Smooth the cross grain of the fabric (evenly distributing the

ease) across the dress form. Pin the center back grain line

fold of the fabric to the center back seams of the dress form.

1. Carefully drape and pin the back line of the fabric to the

side seam/waist corner of the dress form.

NOTE: - When this side seam (waist corner is draped

correctly a slight gap will occur automatically on the side

seam above the hip level.

2. Drape in two dart at the back waist line. Smooth the fabric

form the center back to the princess seam.

Cross mark the waist line at the princess seams. Drape in the

first dart (one half of the excess fabric) on the princess seam

line.

Measure over on the waist line 11\4from the first dark.

Place a second cross mark at this position. Clip the waist line

and drape in the second dart (the remaining half of the

excess fabric) at this second cross mark.

1. Mark all key areas-

Waist line front and back

Dart _ front and back

BASIC STRAIGHT SKIRT BLOCK

TRUENING STEPS

1. Remove the fabric from the dress form laid this drape flat on

a table. If you are planning to true up the fabric on to paper.

Complete the following steps

A) Draw in a straight grain line and the cross grain at the hip

level on to pieces of paper.

B) Re measure the hip and ease. Transfer this

measurement to the paper. Draw a side seam line at this

position parallel to the grain line. (Do this for both the

front and back skirt)

C) Place the fabric drape on top of the paper matching the

straight grain and the cross grain and hip level. The side

seam line should match automatically.

D) With a trace wheel, transfer the waist line, darts, and side

seam marking on to the paper.

1. Draw a short 90 angle at

1) Center front waist (1/2)

2) Center back waist (1)

2. Draw the front and back waist dart

1) Locate the center of each dart.

2) Using a straight ruler, draw a line for the center of each

dart parallel to the grain line and the length of the

desired dart at vanishing point (3 for the from dart

and 5 for the back dart)

3) Using a straight ruler. Complete drawing the reminder of

the dart. Draw the outer edges of the dart from the

vanishing point to the waist line cross mark.

3. Draw the side seam. Using a hip curve ruler place the

straight part of this ruler to the side seam/waist corner and

the side seam (as illustrated).

4. Draw the waist line. Fold and pin in the waist dart. With the

darts folded in place. Use the hip curve ruler and draw in the

waist line.

NOTE: - At this time, match and walk front and back bodies

waist to the skirt waist. When a bodice

Is being attached to the skirt. Waist line should be the same

distance when all darts are folded closed.

5. Check side seam-

1. Pin the front of back side seam together. Matching

cross grain at the hip level.

Measure the side seam form the hip level to the waist line. These

measurements should be the same if they

1. are not. Adjust the back waist line. Side seam corner to

match the front measurement.

NOTE: - If these measurements are more than 3/8 of

recheck the drape for a more accurately draped side

seam/waist corner.

1. Draw the hemline-

1. With the side seam still pinned together, measurement

from the center back waist down to the desired skirt

length.

2. At this measurement, square a line across the skirt to the

center front of the skirt. This line should be perfectly to

the hip line.

3.

CHECK LIST

1. A carefully checking and fitting of the finished drape

serves as several purposes. It may show in accuracy in

fit and any changes or correction can be made at this

time.

1. Front and back grain line should be straight.

2. Front and back cross grain should be perfectly level

to the floor.

3. Hip level ease evenly distributed.

4. All tarred line has the correct amount if seam allow.

5. The overall look of the drapes is near and cleans.

6. Dare the pinned in place to the vanishing point.

1. Drape side seam in alignment of the dress form side

seam.

2. The drape is correctly balanced. The front of the

design is in the front and the back of the design is in

the back.

3. It hangs freckly on all seam line.

THE DARTLESS KIMONOSLEEVE

THE FABRIC PREPARING

1. Measure the lengths for the front and back drape (along the

straight of grain) from the neck band to the hip level and

add 5 snip and tear the fabric this length.

2. Measure the width for front and back drape (along the cross

grain) from the center of the dress from to the wrist level of

the arm. Snip and tear the fabric this width.

3. Draw the grain lines for the front and back kimono 1 from

the turn edge press under.

1. Draw two cross grain for the front and back kimono.

1. Draw the first cross grain line 11 from the top edge of

the fabric this indicates the bust level line.

2. Draw the second cross grain line 14 from the first cross

grain line; this indicates the hip level line.

2. Draw in the back side seam at the hip level measure from

the center back to the side seam and add for ease.

Transfer this measurement to the fabric. Using this mark

draw a side seams perfectly parallel to the center back grain

line.

3. Draw in the front side seam. At the hip level measurements

from the center front to the side seams and add for ease.

Transfer this measurement to the fabric. Using this mark

draw a side seam. Perfectly parallel to the center front grain

lines.

THE DRAPING KIMONO SLEEVE

DRAPING STEPS

Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric, on the center

front position of the dress from. Be sure the cross grain is at the

bust level. Anchor pins at center front neck

1. and center front hip. An additional pin may be needed at the

bust level.

2. Smooth and pin the cross grain of the fabric across the dress

from to the side seam. Pin the side seam to side seams of

the dress from.

Be sure the fabric cross grain are parallel to the floor and

side seams match.

3. Pin the shoulder / neck area in to position by trimming the

excess fabric, around the neck area and smoothing the

fabric flat over the shoulder / neck area.

4. Mark the key area of the dress from corner and the shoulder

ridge.

Side seam 11/2 below the arm plate.

Side seam at the waist line.

5. Remove the fabric drape from the dress from and true up

the neck line and side seam and draft the kimono sleeve.

Raise the shoulder line following this slant

To from the sleeve seam.

Exited this line 23 from the shoulder ridge corner.

With an l-square ruler, draw a line 8 long.

Perpendicular from the shoulder seam.

With the l-square ruler again, square the under arm line

from the wrist line back to the side seam.

Draw in the desired under arm, kimono shape to the

waist level.

1. Draft the back kimono drape. Place the front kimono drape

on top of the prepared fabric for the back drape, matching

cross grains and side seam. Also, place the center fold grain

lines parallel, allowing the back to extend over the front

grain line, but still parallel. Pin both layers of fabric together.

2. Transfer the front kimono shape to the back fabric piece.

Turn the fabric over and mark the back following the pins.

Using a French curve shape the back neck line. Does not

scoop as low as the front neck line.

True all seam, add seam allowances and trims excess fabric,

leaving seam allowance.

3. Check the fit of the kimono drape, pin the front and back

kimono together, Return the drape to the dress from. Place

anchor pins at the center front and center back hip level.

CHECK THE HANG OF THEIS DRAPE

HE FRONT AND BACK DRAPES ARE PLUMB (NO TWIST)

Side seam align with the dress from side seam.

Shoulder seam lay on the shoulder seam of the dress

from.

NOTE: - If the drape hangs incorrectly, this usually

indicates that the shoulder and back neck area need to

be adjusted. This may result in a slightly larger (1/2)

back sleeve width

PEGGED SKIRT

The peg skirt makes hard line news usually for evening or format

ware this skirt is flattering and quite feminism and usually

departs out of soft pliable fabrics.

The peg skit is easily recognized by its following fullness over the

hip area which is formed by dropping deep folds drawn into the

waist line. At the same time the lower edge is drown back into

the body allowing movement with case and freedom. A

beautifully draped peg skirt depends largely on the skill of the

drapes.

THE PEG SKIRT

PREPARING THE FABRIC

1. Measure the length (along the straight of grain) of the

desired skirt of adds 6 ship of tear the fabric this length.

2. Measure the width along the cross grain 32 to determine

the width of the fabric ship of tear the fabric at this width.

NOTE: - When the drape is completed there will be a seam

at the center front of a seam at center back, however, there

will be no side seam.

3. Draw the center back grain line parallel to the grain line on

the left side of the fabric. Press under.

4. Mark the center back waist position. From the top edge of

the4 fabric measure down 3 (on the center back grain line)

draw a waist line mark.

1. On the center back grain line, measure down 7 from the

waist line mark for the hip level. Draw a perfect cross grain.

THE PEGED SKIRT

DRAPING STEPS

1. Pin the center back grain line fold of the fabric on the center

back position of the dress form.

2. Life of hold the top edge of the fabric, Pin the center front in

this bias position to the dress form.

NOTE: - This lifting process will maintain greater fullness at

the waist level, of minimum fullness at the hem level.

However, enough fullness at the hem level must be allowed

for walking ease.

If the skirt front is draped on a true bias, maximum waist

line fullness is achieved. However if the center front is

draped on a partial bias line, this would create less fullness

at the waist line.

Both methods are acceptable draping procedures.

3. To gather the fullness at the waist line, with a piece of will

tape. Tie the fabric at the waist line. Evenly distribute the

gathers.

4. Pleat the desired number of pleats at the waist line. At the

same time, push down slightly on each pleat to help billow

the fabric at the hip level. Also, slightly pull up the center

front bias waist position.

NOTE: - pushing down and maintaining gathers (instead of

pleats) will give a style variation if this very dramatic skirt.

The number of pleats 9r darts of the amount of fullness

desired is up to the individual designer.

1. Pin the pleats in place of remove the will tape. Mark key

areas.

- Waist line

- Pleats

- Hemline

2. Remove the fabric from the dress form of true up the drape.

Add seam allowances and trim excess fabrics.

Pin in the pleats and place drape back on the

Dress from. Check for accuracy. Making all necessary corrections.

THE BASIC NECKLINE COWL

Cowls are draped on the bias, usually in lighter, finer fabrics to

enhance a soft, harmonious look. A basic neckline cowl employee

deep folds to create a variety of looks and woods .The deeper

thee cowl can be used subtly or add imaginative to an otherwise

low key garment. The drape should be done in the same quality

of fabric as the finished garment. The basic neckline cowls /

preparing the fabrics.

THE BASIC COWL NECKLIE /PREPARING THE FRBRIC

PREPARING THE DRESS FORM

Determine the desired neckline depth place a pin or the dress

form at this neckline position. Also place a pin on each shoulder

seam the width of the desired neckline.

1. Measure and cut a perfect square of soft fabric wide enough

for an entire front or entire back bodice (about 34 square)

NOTE The drape should be done in the same quality of fabric

as the finished garment.

2. Draw a true bias line diagonally across the piece of fabric.

3. To determine the neckline and facing are turn a corner of

the fabric deep enough to reach from one shoulder pin to

the other shoulder pin, add 3 for ease.

THE BASIC COWL NECKLINE / DRAPING STEPS

1. Place the folded edge of the fabric on the dress form to

drape the center front neckline position. Match the center

front bias line of the fabric to the center front neckline pin

on the dress form.

2. Drape and pin the shoulder in to position by allowing the

neckline cowl to fall in genteelly. Be sure to keep the center

front bias line on the center front the dress form.

3. Lift and pleat each shoulder to form additional desired

cowl drapes.

NOTE: - Refer to the garment design to determine the no.

of cowl drapes desired.

1. Clip the waist line fabric. Pin and drape the waist line, side

seam and armhole area.

2. Mark key areas of the dress form on one side of the drape

only.

- Shoulder seam

- Side seam

- Waist line

- Arm hole are and desired armhole shape.

3. True up the front cowl drape. Add seam allowance and

trim excess fabric. At the neckline fold, determine the

width of the desired neckline facing. Prim excess form

check for accuracy make all necessary correction.

4. Refer to one of the basic back drapes to drape a back

bodice desired.

NOTE: A low back neckline cannot be used because the

drape will fall off the shoulder. Also the neckline shoulder

area should match.

UNDER ARM / SIDE SEAM COWL

The under arm/side seam cowl drape produces softly curved bias

fold at the underarm seam. The fabric is placed on the true bias

and is draped without a side seam. The under arm/side seam

cowl is effective on a soft drape without working over done. It

after design inspiration for soft and fluid fabric, crate a mood of

easy elegance.

UNDER ARM SIDE SEAM COWL / PREPARING THE

FABRIC

PREPARING THE DRESS FORM

Determine the depth of the under arm cowl desired place a pin

on the dress form at this under arm/side seam position. Also, the

desired shoulder/ arm hole position.

1. Measure and cut a 36 square of soft fabric this will be

enough fabric to drape a front of back waist seam design

forming an under arm cowl.

NOTE: - The drape should be done in the same quality of

fabric. As the finished garments.

2. Draw a true bias line diagonally across the 36 piece of

fabric.

3. Measure up 16 from the bottom edge on the bias line. At

this position draw a perfect cross bias line. Turn the fabric

on this line.

1. Measure up 16 from the bottom edge on the bias line. At

this position draw a perfect cross bias line. Turn the fabric

on this line.

UNDER ARM SIDE SEAM COWL /DRAPING STEPS

1. Pin the fabric on the dress form at the under arm side seam

pin. Position & match the bias line at the fold line to the side

seam pin & the dress form.

2. Drape the shoulder form the cowl by holding the fabric at

the fold line fabric edge and swing the fabric up on to the

shoulders place anchor pins at this shoulders position.

NOTE: - It will be necessary to from pleats and the shoulder

to help from clean even folds, the deeper the side seam

cowl.

3. Clip the fabric on the side seam from the bottom & the bias

line, up to the waist line. Pin the bias line & the fabric to the

side seam/waist position & the dress form.

4. Smooth and drape the fabric past the center frontline will

the grain of the fabric is parallel to the center from of the

dress from.

1. Arm cowl fold line determines the width & shaped of the

desired facing amount. Smooth and drape the fabric past

the center back line will the cross grain of the fabric is

parallel to the center back the dress form.

2. Clip of pin in place the waist line for the front of back.

NOTE: - Another pleat will probably from at the shoulder.

3. Clip the front of back neck lines of drape in the shoulder.

NOTE Another pleat will probably from at the shoulder.

4. Mark key areas

- Front of back

- Center front

- Center back

- Front of back waist line

- Shoulder of pleats

5. True up all lines. For truing up the shoulder, neckline, side

seam & waist line area. Add seam allowance and bin excess

fabric at the under

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