fusion journal 3
TRANSCRIPT
November 2004 Vol. 1 No. 3
Fusion JournalA GLOBAL JOURNAL OF ARTS AND CULTURE
In this Issue: Global Fusion ASIA 911 Prayer Flag in TibetJewel of Wisdom: An Interview with Dr. Christine SkardaChinaâs New Open TourismReinventing LifeGreen Papaya Salad
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3Fusion JournalNovember 2004 Vol. 1 No. 3
SPECIAL FEATURES Jewel of WisdomAn Interview with Christine Skarda p. 9
Itâs Very FamousA look at Tourism in China p. 24
ART & CULTURE 911 Prayer FlagInstalled on Namtso Lake, Tibet
p. 4
Life Reinvented Alternative Lifestyle in Asia
p. 31
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Fusion Journal is published bi-monthly from July 2004 - July 2005 by Lyn Bishop and Taro Tsuzuki
All text and photos copyright 2004 © Lyn Bishop/Taro Tsuzuki
Contact Global [email protected]
Subscriptions , downloadsand companion web log:www.onelove.com/globalfusion
REGULAR FEATURESFrom EditorsA New Bed Every Night... p. 3
FacesThe People of Asia p. 21
Food & DrinkGreen Papaya Salad p. 37
Geo GuideMap & facts of China and Thailand p. 38
ResourcesThe short list of recommendations p. 40
ColophonThe tools we use p. 40
C O N T E N T S
Cover photo: Barley field, Tibet, China This page: Prayer Beads, Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet
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Changing beds just about every night, maneuvering through new cities, figuring out busses and trains on a continuing basis are all part of the daily logistics we have to arrange for ourselves. Now, six months into Global Fusion weâve finally hit our stride.
Arriving in a new place isnât as daunting, and sometimes we find ourselves wondering where that nervous excitement has gone. It seems to be replaced with a more calm and relaxed approach to finding our way through the maze of options we find upon arrival.
We carry a brand name guidebook and have a love-hate relationship with it. It gives the standard information about towns and cities, and gives marginal insights into what to do and see in any particular place. The worst, though, is their lodging descriptions, as property owners tend to rely on the gravy train after their listing is published. In any event, weâd feel lost without it.
Some places are tried and true and others are off the beaten track. Each offer their own rewards for us to discover. What weâve learned so far is to have no expectations and to let the experience of the place and its people open up to us. From here we find ourselves able to get into the groove.
Much Love,Taro and Lyn
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911 Prayer FlagAn Installation at Namtso Lake
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When Lyn Bishop went to a fabric store on September 11, 2001, both of the World Trade Center buildings were burning. The white cloths that she brought home were to become a tribute to the devastating event that took away more than two thousand lives. It was an artistâs reaction to what the entire world saw, a creative instinct that, for a few months, even the artist herself couldnât explain. I had always thought that what brought her joy inspired her art, until then, and never thought that such dark, disturbing and gut-wrenching sights would inspire this particular artist.
Lyn started to collect images that American corporate media kept spitting out. Some mournful and some fearful, others just political, a reactionary dramatic information feast by the media. They kept coming and she kept collecting. It was as if she was digging for victimsâ remains from ground zero, or as if she was searching for some explanations for what it meant to her.
The images and words accumulated almost in synch as the expectations of retaliatory war mounted within America. Each image and phrase was printed onto a piece of white cloth, by means of a color printer, creating a prayer flag about the length of one American football field. This process continued well after all the terrorists and their victims were identified and complete analysis of the attacks were presented and discussed. Although the creation of the 911 Prayer Flag turned near mechanical after a while, Lyn became more deeply emotional and depressed, by the very nature of the event as well as by closely monitoring the media and its tendencies to control the publicâs mindscape. It wasnât until she installed the work at Namtso Lake, high in the Tibetan wilderness, that she let go of her grief as she left the flags to flutter their endless prayers in the strong Tibetan wind.
Previous: 911 Prayer Flag on Namtso Lake, Tibet Left: Detail from 911 Prayer Flag , prayers from around the world
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After the puja (blessing) at a temple by the lake, I walked out to the chosen site to begin installing the flags. I tried to light some juniper incense, but the lighter broke, so I went ahead with the installation. A few minutes later, I saw a monk strolling the deserted lake shore. The snow capped mountains a crown above him, surrounded by the cold, pristine water. When he came near, I asked him for a light. He climbed up on the rock and reached into his thick fur lined maroon jacket, and pulled out a box of matches. He didnât understand English, and I didnât understand Tibetan, however, everything was perfectly clear when he examined the images printed on the flags. He bent to light the juniper and kept feeding it with sticks and his own breath. Then he sat and began his chanting. His sacred words and the cleansing smoke rose up and twirled around the flags before it was carried away on the constant breeze. As he continued to chant, my emotions overflowed while I kept knotting the ribbons of the flags, until all at once, I broke down in a torrent of tears. Later, as I was completing the installation, checking the knots with more practical awareness, I saw his back as he slowly left to continue his daily kora walk, leaving just as silently as he came.
Lyn stands on the shores of Namtso Lake
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The artwork I started three years ago is still in progress, not by my hands now, but by the strong, cold winds of the Himalaya highlands, which continuously flutter the flags, releasing their endless prayers. This particular piece of art has been driven not only by my creative intensions but also by something deeper, a force of spirits or collective energy of the prayers of many. What made me drive to the fabric store? What drove me to continue collecting images and quotes for three long months, in spite of the fact that my dark emotions kept accumulating? How did I come to Namtso Lake? Why did the monk appear during my installation? These are all questions that perhaps Iâll never fully answer.
Before dawn the next morning, I walked back to the installation to touch and read each and every panel before saying goodbye to them. As I stepped away from the installation I felt a sense of relief, a sense of awe, and a sense that the work was now in the gods hands and I walked away with lightness and hope in my heart.
Right: Namtso Lake, Tibet Next: Installing the 911 Prayer Flag
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Jewel of WisdomAn Interview with Christine Skarda
On our last afternoon in Lhasa I was speaking with a Japanese traveler in the courtyard of the Snowlands Hotel. Hearing our intensions with the Global Fusion project, he said, âYou might want to meet with an American Buddhist nun. She and I are staying in the same dormitory here.â A few minutes later, a tall, striking-looking Western woman in Tibetan nun attire appeared on the balcony. Our eyes met, as she looked down. I knew right then that she was the person whom I would be interested in talking to.
âI saw a movie called âDeath of Socratesâ when I was eight-years-old, and since then I fell in love with philosophy,â she said over a dinner. Born and raised in a farm community in Wisconsin, she continued her study in philosophy and received her PhD in Europe. Her passion for understanding the workings of body and mind led her to neural science, where she studied and taught at University of California at Berkeley.
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Because of the depth of Christine Skardaâs study and practice, I had no choice but to ask her rather mundane questions. Extremely intelligent, brilliant, yet cheerful, humorous, and down-to-earth, we found ourselves listening to her as if she were our teacher with much wisdom to share.
Q: Your name and, if you donât mind, your age please. A: My name is Christine Skarda, and Iâm 52. My other name, as a nun, is Konchog Lobsang. âKonchogâ means âjewelâ, and âLobsangâ means âwisdomâ.
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Previous: Dr. Christine Skarda outside Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet Above: Butter Lamps
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Q: What do you do? A: I am a full-time meditator. I have been meditating for almost 13 years. And I am a Buddhist nun, but I donât think of myself primarily as a Buddhist nun. I mostly think of myself as a Buddhist.
Q: Can you tell us about your background, and how you became a Buddhism practitioner? A: I received my PhD in philosophy. My main interest was in âbody and mindâ, and then I studied in neural science for 12 years. I eventually met Dalai Lama, but I was still interested in âbody and mindâ. He suggested that I might try following the Buddhist meditative path, and that
I might get answers to the questions that I was still interested in, in philosophy and science. So I quit my job in those two fields and became a Buddhist.
Q: What do you find in the school of Buddhism that you are studying? A: What I am learning now is a different methodology for investigating mind and body that I didnât have access to either in science or Western philosophy. There are aspects of Buddhist philosophy of mind that are quite different and give you different ways of thinking about the same theoretical issues, and therefore different kind of theoretical framework for doing investigations of mind. Also, Buddhist
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Dr. Christine Skarda and Tibetan boy outside Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet
12
understanding of body is more multi-level. In West, there is only one. In Buddhism there is more understanding of more subtle level of physical reality. Itâs a different way of investigating.
Q: What are the reasons for you to be here in Tibet? A: I will be here for four months altogether; I have been in Lhasa for three weeks now. I am here not for tourism; I am not interested in seeing Tibet just to see. [Laugh] I am interested in visiting the places that are important for a kind of meditative practices I do, and also places where my teachers in India were educated and practiced.
Q: Would you call it a pilgrimage? A: Part of it is, in a sense that I get to see places where my teachers were educated. But primarily I go to places where all the energy or all the practices are located, where people did it for hundreds of years, and where I can get the same kind of connection back to the place.
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Rooftop silhouette of Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet
13
Q: Does your practice affect your political viewpoints? A: No, I donât think so. [Laugh] Politics to me isnât what Buddhism is about. My politics has always been that one should be democratic, truly, not capitalist. I always feel that people should be treated fairly and kindly. I donât believe there are political solutions to most things. Itâs the transformations of peopleâs minds that are the real solution. Politics is about power.
Q: What do you think of the state of the world, as of today? A: Itâs not any better than it ever was. You know, I think the sad thing is that people have no time. And itâs getting more so in every country. I live in India, and even ordinary people there are starting to have
no time. They have no time to think, to reflect on anything, to have any quality. There is no quality; itâs all quantity. How much do I have? How much do I get? I think itâs really regrettable. I feel sorry for people who are doing wrong to other people. Itâs sad.
Q: Do you feel anything as an American? A: Yeah, I feel ashamed. I feel ashamed. During the Vietnam War, I was studying in Europe. I was against the war, and I didnât think it was right. And I remember having people being very aggressive towards me, because I was an American, because Americans were doing a war in Vietnam. It was mid-70âs. And I feel ashamed being an American.
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Dr. Christine Skarda lighting Juniper Incense, Johkang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet
14
Q: Do you have any opinions about the state of Tibet, and about what Chinese government has been doing? A: I donât believe that Tibetans are Chinese. I donât believe that Tibet is China. I agree with Dalai Lama that, if Chinese want to do the foreign policy of Tibet, thatâs fine, because that isnât something Tibetans are very good at anyway. But I believe that Tibetans should be allowed to have their own country. They should be allowed to run their own affairs, to have their own religion. I donât believe that China should be telling them how to live. I donât think that Chinese are bad people. I think that the Cultural Revolution was really bad, and I believe that Chinese are much more oppressive in Tibet than they are in China. I have been told by somebody who is a PLA (Peopleâs Liberation Army) member in China, that PLA could never do what they did in Tibet, in China. They would never be allowed to act that way toward its people. But I donât think thereâs going to be any change. I donât think Tibetans will get their country back and be free, but I would like it if Chinese would let them have an autonomous region. They would have their own local government, take their Chinese signs off, and turn Lhasa into a Tibetan city, not into a Little Beijing. I think the younger generations of Chinese would think that it would be okay, too.
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Pilgrims in Barkhor walk the kora (pilgrims circuit) clockwise around the jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet
15
Q: There are people who are blessed materially, but a lot of them are not finding happiness. Would you suggest something for those people? A: Buddhism says that nature of life is suffering. My feeling is that itâs really helpful for people to first understand the fact that these things arenât permanent happiness. If they were the source of happiness, then by definition, if you got them then you would be happy, right? The really bad thing for people, I think, is that when they get all these material things, they find that they are not all that happy. Then they think they have done something wrong. Actually they havenât done anything wrong, because itâs just a nature of it. I think that the half of the disappointment is that we have totally
unrealistic view of things from the very beginning. You fool yourselves wanting a perfect husband or wife, or a perfect house, a perfect great job, or more money, thinking that it would do it. And of course it doesnât. Dalai Lama often says that the real happiness comes from mind training, making your mind change it, so that you can take bad things with acronymity, you can accept people even when they are angry with you or mean to you or not doing what you want. If you change your mind, no matter what happens you would still be peaceful and happy. That, no one can take away from you. But itâs not an easy thing; it takes a lot of work. Once you get it, though, you can keep it.
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ãšãåå ãªã®ã§ããç§ãã¡ã¯ãå®ç§ãªå€«ã劻ãããçŽ æŽããã家ãããããŠä»äºããéã«æ§ããªããèªåã«åãã€ããŠãããã§ããããããããã°äººçå šãŠã幞ãã«åãŸããã®ããã«ããããŠãã¡ããããã¯çŸå®ã«æãåŸãªãããã©ã€ã»ã©ãããã話ãããã®ã§ããã幞çŠã¯å¿ã幞çŠã®èŠ³å¿µãã®ãã®ãå€ããããšã«ãã£ãŠåŸããããã®ã§ããããããã°æªãç©äºãæè»ã«åãæ¢ããããšãåºæ¥ã誰ããããªãã«æããæå°æªãªè¡çºããããšããŠãããã®äººãåãå ¥ããããšãåºæ¥ãŸãã粟ç¥èªäœãå€ããã°ãäœãèµ·ããããšå¹³åãšå¹žçŠãä¿ã€ããšãåºæ¥ãããããŠèª°ãããã奪ãããšã¯åºæ¥ãªãããããããã¯å®¹æãªããšã§ã¯ãªãããçžåœã®ä¿®è¡ãèŠããŸããã§ãäžåºŠãã®ãããªç²Ÿç¥ãåŸããšã倱ãããšããªãã®ã§ãã
Prayer flags outside Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet
16
Q: I understand that you passed by Jerry Garciaâs funeral. Could you share how it happened? A: [Laugh] It was my last day before I went to the retreat in India. The last thing I gave away of all my belongings was a bird. I brought it my friendâs house. He lived a block away from a church. On my way back I was driving by the church, and I saw somebody in the parking lot who looked familiar, and it was Bob Dylan! [Laugh] And I got out of the car, because there were many limousines. Then I realized that there were people from Grateful Dead in the parking lot, too. I actually had no idea that Jerry Garcia died, but they saw me standing there in robes. One of the people came to me and told me what was going on. So I did some prayers for Jerry in that parking lot. I left for India that night. I said good-bye to Jerry and San Francisco, I cried and saw the Bay Bridge disappear underneath me, and that was it.
ïŒãžã§ãªãŒã»ã¬ã«ã·ã¢ã®åå¥åŒã«ééããããã§ããããã®ãšãã®æ§åã話ããŠããã ããŸããïŒïŒ¡ïŒïŒç¬ïŒããã¯ç§ãã€ã³ãã®ä¿®è¡å Žãžæ ç«ã€æ¥ã®åæ¥ã§ãããæã£ãŠãããã®ãå šãŠææŸããæåŸã«æ®ã£ãã®ã¯é£Œã£ãŠããé³¥ã ã£ãããã®é³¥ãåŒãåã£ãŠãããå人ã®å®¶ããã®åž°ãéã ã£ããã圌ã®å®¶ã®åã«æäŒããããã§ããããã®åãè»ã§éãããããšãé§è»å Žã«èŠèŠãã®ãã人ãèŠãããã®ã§ããããã¯ããã»ãã£ã©ã³ã ã£ãïŒïŒç¬ïŒãªã ãžã³ãäœå°ãåãŸã£ãŠããã®ãèŠãŠãç§ã¯è»ãéããŸãããé§è»å Žã«ã¯ã°ã¬ã€ããã«ã»ãããã®äººãã¡ãããŸããããžã§ãªãŒã»ã¬ã«ã·ã¢ã亡ããªã£ãããšã¯äœãç¥ããªãã£ãã®ã§ãããå§è¡£ãçãŠç«ã£ãŠããç§ã«æ°ã¥ããã¡ã³ããŒã®äžäººãæ©ã¿å¯ã£ãŠãäºã®çµç·¯ã話ããŠãããŸããããããèããŠç§ã¯é§è»å Žã§ç¥ããæ§ãããã§ãããžã§ãªãŒã®ããã«ããã®å€ãç§ã¯ãµã³ãã©ã³ã·ã¹ã³ç©ºæž¯ããã€ã³ããžãšæ ç«ã¡ãŸããããžã§ãªãŒãšãµã³ãã©ã³ã·ã¹ã³ã«ãããªããèšã£ãŠãæ³£ããŠããããŠãã€ããªããžãèŠçããæ¶ããŸããããããæåŸã ã£ããã
A woman makes prostrations outside Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet
17
Q: We have some friends who have been dealing with breast cancer. Would you shed some light for them, as to what they might want to keep in mind? A: My mother had breast cancer, her sister died of breast cancer, and I think I have a very high chance of getting it myself. I think about this a lot. Actually, for myself, as a way to die, itâs a way I would rather die, simply because I have a lot of time, to think, to prepare for myself. It would be a kind of blessing as a practitioner. Most people I ask in the West say, âOh, I would rather die in my sleep.â Cancer death is something thatâs longer. They wouldnât want to deal with it at all. That means every single day until they die, or if they are not going to die, they have to deal with the issue of death. And itâs a really difficult thing. The scariest thing for people is death. Milarepa, the great Tibetan saint, said that the reason he started meditating was that he was so frightened of dying. After he started meditating he got to the point where he was no longer afraid of death, because he understood what it was and he understood what he had to do. There are practices to deal with it. And if people would just deal with it, instead of trying not to deal with it until the moment it hits you, or you are terminally ill, you wouldnât spend the whole time being panic stricken. If people had a way to deal with it or talk about it, then there are some concrete actions they can take. And for me thatâs what Buddhism is really about. I think itâs important to learn about what death is.
ïŒæã ã«ã¯ä¹³çã®æ²»çãåããŠãã芪åãäœäººããããã§ãã圌女ãã¡ãå¿ã«çããŠããããããªããšã§äœãã話ããŠããã ããŸããïŒïŒ¡ïŒç§ã®æ¯ã¯ä¹³çã«ããããå§ã¯ä¹³çã§äº¡ããªããŸãããæ¯ã¯ä¹³çããã¯å埩ããŸããããç§ããããªãå¯èœæ§ã¯ããªãé«ãã§ããããããã«ã€ããŠã¯é »ç¹ã«èããŸããæ»ã«æ¹ãšããŠã¯ãã®æ¹ãè¯ããšç§ã¯èããŠããŸãããããªã£ãå Žåãç§ã«ã¯èããæéãæºåããæéãäžããããããã§ããçæ³ã®å®è·µå®¶ãšããŠã¯ããçš®ã®æµã¿ãšãèšããŸãã西æŽã§ã¯çããç ã£ãŠããéã«æ»ã«ããããšèšããŸããããçã«ããæ»ã¯é·åŒãã®ãæ®éã§ãã圌ãã«ã¯ãããçŽèŠåºæ¥ãªããçã®å Žåãæ»ãã§ãæ»ãªãªããŠãæ»ãšçŽé¢ããªããã°ãªããŸãããããã¯ãšãŠãå°é£ãªããšã§ãã人ã ããã£ãšãæããã®ãæ»ãªãã§ãããããããã®å倧ãªè人ãã©ã¬ãã¯ã圌ãçæ³ãå§ããã®ã¯æ»ã«å¯Ÿããæããæã£ãŠããããã ãšèšããŸããçæ³ãå§ãä¿®è¡ãç©ãã 圌ã¯ãæ»ãæããããšããªããªããŸãããæ»ãäœã§ãããããã«å¯ŸããŠäœãããã°è¯ãããç解ããããã§ããæ»ãæããšæãããšã¯ããã§ãããããããã«é¢ããŠäœããããããšã¯åºæ¥ãããã®ããã®ä¿®è¡ããããŸããæ»ã®ç¬éãç æ°ã®æ«æçç¶ã«ãªã以åã«ãæ»ãšåããåãããšãé¿ãããæ»ã«ã€ããŠèããçŽé¢ãããããã°ãæ»ãåŸ ã€éãã£ãšãããã¯ç¶æ ã«é¥ãããšãªããäžããããæéãææ矩ã«äœ¿ãããšãåºæ¥ãåæã«ç æ°ã®å埩ã«åªåããããšãåºæ¥ããã§ããããçãæ»ã«ã€ããŠç解ãäŒè©±ããã°ãäœããã®è¡åããšãããšãåºæ¥ãã¯ãã§ããç§ã«ãšã£ãŠã¯ãããä»æã®èª¬ãçé«ã§ããæ»ãäœã§ããããåŠã¶ããšã¯å€§åãªããšã ãšæããŸãã
Dr. Christine Skarda outside Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet
18
Q: Besides Buddhism and philosophy books and scientific books, do you have any favorites? A: I do. Two books. I read âKimâ. Itâs about a Tibetan Lama and a little boy, who is an orphan in India. The story is in 1860âs. I live in India, and things have never changed at all [laugh]. The book is the world I live in. And the other is âLord of the Ringsâ, because itâs a book about good and evil and how good triumphs, and itâs very endearing and easy. I really enjoy this world thatâs created. Itâs a fantasy, so when I want to relax, I would just read bits of it. I read it maybe twenty five times. Itâs kind of an escape for me.
Q: Do you listen to music? A: Yeah, but very rarely. I really love Brahms [Laugh], and piano music. I put on Brahms, turn off the lights and just lie down and listen to it. And itâs like a whole different world. The world of sound that just doesnât exist anywhere else. Itâs the thing I love the most. Itâs the thing that I listen to it and I always cry. I clearly have a deep karmic connection with Brahms and the whole culture of that turn of the century, from 1800âs to 1900âs.
Q: Going back to the topic of Buddhism, who and what is the existence of Dalai Lama 14th to you? A: For me, he is a really exceptional teacher. He is the best teacher I have ever heard. He speaks at all levels at one time, so that
ïŒä»æãå²åŠãç§åŠã®æ¬ä»¥å€ã«ãæ°ã«å ¥ãã®æ¬ã¯ãããŸããïŒïŒ¡ïŒäºåãããŸããã²ãšã€ã¯ãKimïŒéŠé¡ãå°å¹Žãã ããã©ãã€ãŒãã»ãããªã³ã°èïŒããããããå§ãšã€ã³ãã®å€å ã®è©±ã§ããç§ã¯ã€ã³ãã«äœãã§ããŸããããã®æ¬ãæžãããïŒïŒïŒïŒå¹Žä»£ä»¥æ¥ãäœãå šãå€ãã£ãŠããªããã§ãïŒç¬ïŒããããæ£ã«ç§ãäœãã§ããäžçãªã®ãããäžåã¯ãLord of the RingsïŒéŠé¡ãæ茪ç©èªããã»ãã«ãŒãã³èïŒãããããåãšæªã®è©±ã§ãåãåå©ããããšãšããšãŠãç°¡åã«èªãããã®ã ããããã«ãŒãã³ãäœãäžããäžçã¯ãšãŠã楜ããããã®ãã¡ã³ã¿ãžãŒã¯ãªã©ãã¯ã¹ã§ãããã®ãªã®ãä»ãŸã§ïŒïŒåã¯èªãã ããããç§ã«ãšã£ãŠã¯éé¿ãªã®ãã
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Mani Stones and religious objects, Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet
19
anybody who is listening can get something out of it. Itâs a really magical quality. He would give a talk on something, like Doctrine of Emptiness that I studied for three or four years, and somebody who doesnât even understand anything gets something in that talk, and I can get something thatâs extremely technical with some insight into that, in the same talk. Whatâs interesting is that the person who heard other things didnât even heard what I heard, and they wouldnât feel that they got left out, really, but they would all feel included in that. I think if anyone is a Buddha, he is a Buddha, because thatâs what Buddha would do. To do that is an incredible gift. And he also has the voice thatâs very interesting. They say that itâs a voice of Manjushuri, who is the gentle-voiced one, the one whose voice is almost like a song, and heâs voice is just amazingly beautiful.
Q: You are born and raised in America. Do you miss anything, like culture, food, and so on? A: Yes! I miss the Bay Area. Itâs so beautiful, and itâs so comfortable. I miss central heating. I miss hot water out of the tap and hot shower, of course [Laugh]. I miss food sometimes. I miss friends. I miss a lot of things. I can go without them for a long time but occasionally, but not always. I think, âIf I could go to Home Depot, I would be able to buy a whole door! I donât have to make it!â [Laugh] But the point is, that just doesnât do it. And in the end, I think I canât do what I want to do with my mind and I canât really become the kind of help I want to become if I hold on to that. So I have
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Rainbow, Lhasa, Tibet
20
to let go. And I wouldnât let go if it were just for me. Because, heavens, it would be much easier for me. But Iâve learned enough to know that the only reason there are beings with minds is that those beings with minds are to be there to serve others. Otherwise, I would rather live in San Francisco Bay Area and have a nice apartment like I had before, and a car, and⊠But I know that itâs not the way to do it, so I wouldnât have it that way.
After this interview, we asked Christine to pray for a friend of ours in California. Without hesitation, Christine took off a single thread of red string from around her neck, and handed it to us saying, âI can give this to your friend. Dalai Lama gave it to me at my initiation ceremony. And I will add her to the list of people I always pray for.â
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Dr. Christine Skarda outside Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet
21
FACES of TIBET
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23
FACES of LANTA
24
Itâs Very FamousThe New Open China
The train was finally approaching Chengdu, the capital city of the Sichuan province. Being crammed in one of the six-bed open compartments on the train since it had left Beijing three days before, everybody was anxious for the end of the ride. All of our neighbors were on their way back to Sichuan, after a summer holiday in Beijing. On the last morning on the train together, we decided to ask their recommendations on what to do and see in Sichuan. They enthusiastically and proudly listed up the famous sites that were wrapped in ancient lore, poetry and historical significance.
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Naxi women walking at sunrise, Lijiang, Yunnan, China
25
With newfound wealth and freedom, the Chinese are actively exploring their vast and diverse country. The rapidly growing middle-class has quickly developed an appetite for travel and leisure with the Chinese government proactively encouraging exploration of the motherland. The diverse natural and historic wonders are advertised on countless television travel programs and the pages of glossy magazines. The bright economic outlook, euphoric nationalism and elevated interest in their own history and culture only add to the publicâs enthusiasm for travel. As a result, domestic tourism in China has exploded.
By far, the most popular method of exploring China is in the form of the organized group tours. The Chinese find comfort in traveling in large groups, whether itâs with their friends, family or workmates. They rely on well-coordinated transportation and tightly programmed schedules. They are easy to spot at the destination, not only because they tend to stay within the boundary of immediate travel mates, but also because they tend to wear the same clothing, be it a baseball cap, t-shirt or travel bag, all sporting the travel agents logo like employees at a trade show.
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Chinese Tour Group at Grand Buddha, Leshan, Sichuan, China
26
The central and provincial governments have quickly been developing tourism sites. In league with developers and local businesses, their projects do not stop at building accommodations and businesses around tourism destinations, but include the blueprints for redefining the surrounding communitiesâ appearance and economic structures. The modernization of transportation is a key component for tourist development, connecting remote locations to new airports, major highways, railways and long-distant bus networks. They create new areas within the towns where hotels, restaurants, souvenir shops and other conveniences can easily be established. The tourist sites themselves often undergo a face lift with paved roads, new gates, well-defined walk paths, manicured gardens, lookout points, and resting spots with canteens, all decisively of Han Chinese designs. This includes various places in Tibet, where the appearance and feel are rather inappropriate and mismatched.
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27
On the lush mountains of Emi-Shan, hiking paths and steps are meticulously paved with stones and souvenir shops line both sides. Simultaneously, the walking paths define boundaries for individual explorations, limiting where one may or may not wonder to. Driveways are constructed to reach bus stops, crowded with souvenir shops, near temples and scenic spots, all within walking distance of the comfortable air-conditioned buses. Lifts and cable cars take visitors higher, so that they do not need to make the difficult climb to see a magnificent sunrise from the top of mythic mountains.
What used to be small old towns near tourist destinations that used to welcomed manageable loads of mainly foreign tourists have expanded, adding new sections with shops and bars catering primarily to the domestic group tour. In case of Lijiang, a UNESCO World Heritage site, the heritage itself has been altered drastically from a quiet old town of calm and charms to a commercialized shopping center, where shop after shop all sell the same indifferent junk. One has to wonder if this is really the development UNESCO had in mind when it issued itsâ world famous brand name to Lijiang?
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A view from Emei Shan Mountains, Sichuan, China
28
The political situation in Tibet has gotten so much exposure that it has become a world famous tourist destination in itsâ own right. The central government is well aware of the trend, and is now building a brand new railroad to transfer more travelers between Western provinces and Lhasa. Chinese tourist are pouring into Lhasa at a previously unheard of rate and special tours are arranged to take them farther a field.
The younger Chinese are much more inclined to travel on their own. Married couples and lovers want to find their romantic moments without a group present. College students with more time available want to roam around spontaneously. There are some who consider travel more of an outdoor sport
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Potala Palace, once the center of the Tibetan government, Lhasa, Tibet
29
than just merely sightseeing. These young travelers congregate in fashionable cafés that serve coffee, offer Western menus, show recent movies on DVDs, offers Internet access, and sport a cool atmosphere to hang out and exchange information in. Middle-class families with recently acquired cars have also started to travel on their own, and the trend is expected to rise sharply in the near future, in synch with the huge sales of automobiles in China.
In light of the unfolding tourism taking shape in China, the visiting Westerner can easily feel confined to traveling in the same way as the domestic herds. The challenge is in finding a unique path that leads you through amazing places while at the same time offers the right amount of personal and direct interaction with the people and places. Western travelers have
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A cafe in Old Town, Lijiang, Yunnan, China
30
a passion for getting off the beaten path and seeking out remote villages, back streets and unknown areas. As areas continue to open up in China, so will travel for the masses, making it at the same time easier and more difficult to find the undeveloped China.
The two months we spent in China were just scratches on the surface of this huge treasure box, which is still full of untapped wonders. Travelers are almost guaranteed to discover gems, even in a short, limited time, both in far off places and inner city settings, especially if they are willing to go outside of the established tours and make their own arrangements.
Traveling off the beaten track is a little harder than visiting the popular destinations, but transportation is available thanks to all the improvements in this new open China. On the unbeaten paths, the tranquility that one feels at quiet outdoor spots and the personal interactions with locals offer the opportunity to see a real China, that hasnât been all dolled-up for the casual tourist. Of course, there are always the must-see places like the Potala Palace or the Grand Buddha. Just watch out when they say âItâs very famous.â
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Leaving the train station, Chengdu, Sichuan, China
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Life Reinvented We continue to find the unbeaten path more rewarding, offering the unexpected experiences in every culture we visit. Perhaps the same can be said for the unbeaten paths in life. As we look at the lifestyles of the cultures we explore, we find that they are, in general, reflections of their societies. However, itâs interesting to take notice of the alternative lifestyles we find here and there, fusing cultures and creating new ways of living in societies with deeply rooted traditions.
Taking a break, Dali, Yunnan, China
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In the small, ancient fortress town of Dali, China, surrounded by stunning nature and a rich history, young entrepreneurs are running their own business, mostly in the service sector, making their dream of do-it-yourself, âfree and just enoughâ come true. They gather under rather loose and easy-going ideals to create places and spaces for others to enjoy. Their visions manifest in the form of guest houses, restaurants, café and bars. They do not actively advertise their presence in guidebooks and tourist offices, but attract clients by word of mouth. From what we observed in China, this particular business plan is on target, as mainstream tourism does not offer many alternatives and is usually saturated with well-programmed experience. Through word of mouth recommendations, they are able to meet people with similar ideas, values and philosophies. This creates a kind of network among their clients that helps them to promote their businesses to a similar customer base in a grass roots manner. Take for example the Irish owned bar/bookstore, or the American/Japanese/Chinese coffeehouse, or even the Chinese guesthouse with artist owners. All are living a simplified existence that fits the lifestyle they have designed themselves. They have woven a tight community of young entrepreneurs who work together, instead of competing fiercely for the visitors business.
Salvadorâs inside and out, Dali, Yunnan, Chinaãäžåœé²åçã«ãã倧çãè±ããªèªç¶ã«å²ãŸããé·ãæŽå²ãšå¿å°ãã倩åã«æµãŸããå°ããªå€åè¡ã§ããããã®è¡ã§ã¯ãè¥ãçµå¶è ãã¡ãäž»ã«ãµãŒãã¹æ¥ã§èªãã®ããžãã¹ãéå¶ããèªåã«ãããèªç±ããã€çããã«ã¯å åããšãã圌ãã®å€¢ãå®çŸãããŠãããæè»æ§ãšããšããæã£ãã³ã³ã»ããã«å ±é³Žãã仲éãã¡ã¯ã人ã ãéãŸã£ãŠæ¥œãããå Žæãã¹ããŒã¹ãæäŸããããã®ããžã§ã³ã¯ã²ã¹ãããŠã¹ãã¬ã¹ãã©ã³ããŸãã¯ã«ãã§ãããŒã«å ·çŸåãããŠãããã¬ã€ãããã¯ãžã®å®£äŒãããŒãªã¹ãäŒç€Ÿãšã®é£æºã¯æå°éã«æããäž»ã«å人ã¬ãã«ã®å£ã³ãã§ã¯ã©ã€ã¢ã³ããéãããç§ãã¡ãäžåœã§èŠããšããã§ã¯ãã¡ãžã£ãŒèŠ³å ç£æ¥ã§ã¯ãã¢ãŒäŒç€ŸãŸããã®å£äœæ è¡ã倧åãå ããŠããŠããªã«ã¿ããã£ããªéžæè¢ãå°ãªãããããã®ããžãã¹ãã©ã³ã¯çãå°ããã®ã ãšèšããã圌ãã¯ãå人ã«ããæšèŠãéããŠåããããªã¹ã¿ã€ã«ã䟡å€èŠ³ãèãæ¹ãæã€äººã ãšåºäŒãããšãã§ããã®ã ãã¯ã©ã€ã¢ã³ãéã§ããçš®ã®ãããã¯ãŒã¯ã圢æãããèã®æ ¹éåçã«ãã®èŒªãåºãã£ãŠããããã®äŸãšããŠãã¢ã€ã«ã©ã³ã人ãçµå¶ããããŒãšæ¬å±ãã¢ã¡ãªã«äººãæ¥æ¬äººãäžåœäººãå ±åçµå¶ããã³ãŒããŒããŠã¹ãããã«äžåœäººã¢ãŒãã£ã¹ããéããã²ã¹ãããŠã¹ãªã©ãããã圌ãã®ç掻ã¯åœŒãèªèº«ãèšèšããã·ã³ãã«ã§ã¯ãããå å®ããã·ã³ãã«ãªçãæ¹ã ã圌ãã¯ä»²éå士ã®æ¿ãã競äºãé¿ããç¬èªã®ã³ãã¥ããã£ãŒã®äžã§ååããããªããå ±åããŠããããã ã£ãã
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There are many expatriates wandering the world, mostly from western cultures. There are many reasons they may seek a life outside of their homelands. Maybe a few are on the run, hiding from their governments, but mostly they are honest folk bent on creating an alternative life for themselves, based on more quality than quantity. There are many possible reasons for their relocation: international romances; political disillusionment; the need to stretch Western currency to the maximum; continued cultural education; or simply wanting to slow down and relax the pace of their life. In these far off corners of the world many creative souls find quiet time to concentrate on their work, without interruptions. Many expats are retired Westerners and Japanese, who not only enjoy exploring life in different environments, but also take advantage of the lower living costs. In fact, many Southeast Asian countries now offer retirement visas, which are both easy to obtain and extend.
Sunset, Dali, Yunnan, China
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Thailand seems to be a place of opportunity, as our artist friend from Santa Cruz has been living abroad for several years now. In addition to her art, she has established an island tour business that offers overnight camping trips to deserted islands. She has just completed building her dream house, a pole house situated over the ocean and is living an alternative lifestyle that she designed. Her neighbor happens to be an American writer who stays for most of the year, concentrating on writing his first novel. Her friend is a Danish woman who is in her second season teaching Thai cooking classes on the beach. Their other friends are a young couple who split their lives between San Francisco Bay Area and the island, where they run a café bar.
Artist and Writer, Ko Lanta, Thailand
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Locals and expats form alliances quite often in this context, in order to realize their mutual dreams. One may call it a part of globalization, and it probably is. However, the trend is virtually unnoticeable, shadowed by large corporationsâ advertised foreign investments, which normally lack in sensible cultural integration and often end up in mere in-your-face Western overtakes. Private level entrepreneurs, on the other hand, can set new standards in services, exterior and interior designs, and discover untapped business opportunities that are not in competitions with rapidly growing tourism, though they are definitely part of it.
Sunset, Ko Lanta, Thailand Time For Lime Thai Cooking School, Ko Lanta, Thailand
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They all create space for multicultural collaborations showing eye-opening possibilities for those who dare to differ from the uniform societies in pursuit of free thinking and living, or for those who dream of living outside of their homelands. They are making their own paths, while proving to others that such dreams can come true. With uniquely creative ideas, a bit of funds, hard work, and a bit of luck to pave the way, they walk a path of alternative living and design their lives according to their dreams.
Carlsâ Place, Dali, Yunnan, China
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Som Tom
GREEN PAPAYA SALAD Serves 4
6 small chillies
6 garlic cloves
4 tbs dried shrimp
4 long beans - chopped, 2 cm
4 tomatoes - diced
shredded green papaya
4 tbs roasted peanuts or cashews
6 tbs lime juice
6 tbs fish sauce
4 tbs palm sugar
Using a mortar and pestle, pound garlic, chillies and dried shrimp. Then peanuts, mash. Add long beans, bruise. Add sauces and sugar, blend well. Add tomatoes, and papaya, bruise. Serve and Enjoy.
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Geo Guide ChinaLhasa Chengdu
KunmingDali
Lijiang
Leshan
Bangkok
Ko Lanta
1. China2. Bhutan3. India4. Bangladesh5. Myanmar6. Thailand7. Malaysia8. Cambodia9. Vietnam10. Laos
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China: The capital of the Peopleâs Republic of China is Beijing. The country is located in Eastern Asia, bordering the East China Sea, Korea Bay, Yellow Sea, and South China Sea, between North Korea and Vietnam. Itâs shares land boundaries with Afghanistan, Bhutan, Burma, India, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Laos, Mongolia, Nepal, Pakistan, Russia, Tajikistan and Vietnam. The climate is extremely diverse; tropical in the south to subarctic in the north. The terrain consists of mostly mountains, high plateaus, deserts in the west, plains, deltas and hills in the east. Natural resources include coal, iron ore, petroleum, natural gas, mercury, mineral deposits, uranium and hydropower potential. China is the worldâs fourth-largest country (after Russia, Canada, and US). The population is estimated to be 1,298,847,624 (July 2004). Data from 1989 lists ethnic groups including Han Chinese (91.9%), Zhuang, Uygur, Hui, Yi, Tibetan, Miao, Manchu, Mongol, Buyi, Korean, and other nationalities (8.1%).
äžè¯äººæ°å ±ååœïŒéŠéœã¯å京ãæ±ã¢ãžã¢ã«äœçœ®ããåæé®®ãšãããã ã®éã§æ±ã·ãæµ·ãæ鮮湟ãé»æµ·ãåã·ãæµ·ã«é¢ãããåœå¢ãæ¥ããåœã ã¯ãã¢ãã¬ãã¹ã¿ã³ãããŒã¿ã³ããã«ãïŒãã£ã³ããŒïŒãã€ã³ããã«ã¶ãã¹ã¿ã³ããã«ã®ã¹ã¿ã³ãã©ãªã¹ãã¢ã³ãŽã«ããããŒã«ãããã¹ã¿ã³ããã·ã¢ãã¿ãžãã¹ã¿ã³ããããŠãããã ã§ãããæ°åïŒå°æ¹ã«ãã£ãŠå€æ§ã極ãããåã¯ç±åž¯ãåã¯äºå極å°åž¯ã§ãããå°åœ¢ïŒå±±å²³å°åž¯ãé«å±±åºåã西ã«ã¯ç æŒ ããããå¹³éããã«ã¿ãäžéµå°åž¯ãæ±æ¹é¢ãå ãããèªç¶è³æºïŒç³çãéé±ç³ãé±ç³ãç³æ²¹ãèªç¶ã¬ã¹ãæ°Žéãããã©ã«ããŠã©ããŠã ãæ°Žåçºé»ãäžåœã¯ãã·ã¢ãã«ãããã¢ã¡ãªã«ã«æ¬¡ãã§äžç第åã®é åãæããã人å£ïŒïŒïŒïŒïŒå¹ŽïŒææšå®ã1,298,847,624ãïŒïŒïŒïŒå¹Žã®ããŒã¿ã«ããåœæ°ã®æ°æååžã¯ã挢æ°æïŒ91.9%ïŒããã¯ã³æããŠã€ã°ã«æãåæãã€ãŒæãããããæããã£ãªæãæºå·æãèå€æããã€æãæé®®æããã®ä»ïŒ8.1%ïŒã
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Thailand: The capital of the Kingdom of Thailand is Bangkok. The country is located in Southeastern Asia, bordering the Andaman Sea and the Gulf of Thailand, southeast of Burma. Itâs shares land boundaries with Burma, Cambodia, Laos, and Malaysia. The climate is tropical, rainy and hot from mid-May to September; dry and cooler from November to Mid-March. The terrain consists of central plains, Khorat Plateau in the east, with mountains elsewhere. Natural resources include tin, rubber, natural gas, tungsten, tantalum, timber, lead, fish, gypsum, lignite, fluorite and arable land. The population is estimated to be 64,865,523 (July 2004). These estimates take into account the effects of excess mortality due to AIDS. Ethnic groups include Thai (75%), Chinese (14%), and a variety of other tribes (11%). Thailand was known as Siam until 1939 and is the only Southeast Asian country never to have been colonized by a European power.
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Geo Guide Thailand
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Resources
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Bird Bar #22 Ren Min Road, Dali, China 86-872-2661843 [email protected]
Guide and Driver, Lijiang Li and Richard He [email protected] tel: 13578370587
Kingâs Park Kitchen No. 5 Hu Guo Road, Dali, China 86-1361-8720623
Salavadorâs Coffee House Wen Lin Jie, Wen Hua Xiang #76 Kunming, China 0871-5363525 [email protected]
Wild Swans by Jung Chang A tragic tale of Chinaâs 20th century ISBN: 0-00-717076-9
Atcha Hut Bungalows Klong Nin Beach, Ko Lanta Yai, Thailand 09-4704607 / 07-0335875 [email protected]
Sun Fishing and Camping Tours & Ko Lanta House Rental Lanta Old Town, Ko Lanta, Thailand 66-075-697-188 [email protected]
Time for Lime Creative Cooking Saladan, Ko Lanta, Thailand www.timeforlime.net [email protected]
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Incense burning at Wuyou Si Temple, Leshan, Sichuan, China