ASSQC

Garment Defects

Submitted by:- Anurag Choudhary Samar Chowdhary

INTRODUCTION:- Garment manufacturing involves many varied operations and a very large number of operators. Operations, with some exceptions, are largely controlled by the operators and are not machine controlled. Fabric types and garment styles are being increasingly diversified in a great way. For every industry or business, to get increased sales and better name amongst consumers and fellow companies it is important to maintain a level of quality. In the garment industry quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished garment. For textile and apparel industry product quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, color fastness, surface designs and the final finished garment products. Defects in garments reduces the usability or expected life of the product as well as visual defects in the garment leads to the unsale of the product. Garment defects have great role in the quality of the garment. Different companies have their different parameters to pass a garment. Garment defects are the major cause of rejection of garments in industries. It is a huge loss for the manufacturers as they reject their product after spending time and money on it. So industries tried to minimize the garment defects. Their can be many reason which can cause defects in the garments. Here some of main fabric properties that are taken into consideration for garment manufacturing :- Overall look of the garment. Right formation of the garment. Feel and fall of the garment. Physical properties. Color fastness of the garment. Finishing properties Presentation of the final produced garment.

Garment defects can be separated into 4 categories:1. Sewing Defects.2. Trims Accessories and Establishments defects.3. Seizing Defects.4. Fabric Defects. SEWING DEFECTS :- In it Like open seams, wrong stitching techniques used, same colour garment, but usage of different color threads on the garment, miss out of stitches in between, creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some sewing defects that could occur so should be taken care of. The mistakes by the operators in sewing the garment cause the defects in the ready garment and cause the rejection of the garment. Broken Stitch :- Stitch of the garment is broken. It is due to the uneven tension of thread or by high GSM of the fabric. Non-continuous sewing thread. It appears due to improper trimming or machine usage.

Unraveling Seam :- Generally occurs on 401 chain stitch seams where either the stitch has been broken or a skipped stitch has occurred. This will cause seam failure unless the seam is Re stitched. Use a high performance Perma Core or D-Core thread that will minimize broken stitches and skipped stitches also it depends upon the handling technique of the operators.

Restitched Seam :-Where there is a "splice" on the stitch line. If this occurs on Topstitching, then the seam does not appear to be 1st quality merchandise. Caused by:-1. Thread breaks or thread run-out during sewing.2. Cut or broken stitches during a subsequent treatment of the finished product.

Disappearing Stitches:- It Is where the thread looks much smaller on seams sewn in the warp direction than in the weft direction of the fabric. The usage of high SPI and by checking the proper looseness in the thread.

Rolling Pockets :- Where the pocket does not lay flat and rolls over after laundering. To avoid this make sure the sewing operators are not holding back excessively when setting the front pocket.

Skipped Stitch :- Where the stitch forming device misses the needle loop or the needle misses the looper loop. Skips are usually found where one seam crosses another seam and most of the time occurs right before or right after the heavy thickness. It can be minimize by use of core spun thread Use minimum thread tension to get a balanced stitch.

Ragged Edge :- Where the edge of the seam is either extremely "ragged" or "rolls" inside the stitch. To avoid this the knives should be adjusted properly in relationship to the "stitch tongue" on the needle plate to obtain the proper seam width or width bite and make sure the sewing machine knives are sharpened and changed often.

Wavy Seams :- Where the seam does not lay flay and is wavy due to the fabric stretching as it was sewn or during subsequent laundering and handling operations. By exerting minimum presser foot pressure and instruct sewing operators to use proper handling techniques and not stretch the fabric as they are making the seam.

Ropy Hem :- Where hem is not laying flat and is skewed in appearance. It is avoided by instruct the sewing operator to make sure they get the hem started correctly in the folder before they start sewing. Also, make sure they don't hold back excessively as the seam is being sewn.

Uncut thread :- Extra thread or loose thread on seam line. It appears due to improper trimming or finishing. It affects the finishing of the garment.

Seam Puckering :- It refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after laundering causing an unacceptable seam appearance. This problem arises due to uneven stretching on to plies of fabric during sewing , improper thread tension , wrong sewing thread selection , dimensional instability of the plies of fabric etc.

Uneven Stitching :- When the stitching affects the garment appearance function it should be considered defective. In it stitching that is wavy, not straight, or loose.

Broken seam :- When seams of two garments are not attached properly and result in broken seam. Either seam allowance is to shallow or it accour in low GSM fabric.

Trims Accessories and Establishments defects :- These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing thread, screen print , embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining , button and any kind of trims.Defects are also classified (as per extent of defect )into Critical, Major and Minor defects. Improper Ironing :- If not sufficient, there might be creases and crinkles on garment surface and if ironing is too heavy, there might be shining mark on garment.

Unmatched color of thread :- The usage of different color of thread that is suggested by the buyer or the color of thread bleeds after the wash of the garment.

Using Defected zippers :- Sometimes the use of defected zippers leads to the rejeaction of the garment. These zippers are attached by garments without testing them.

Wrong Labels :- The usage of wrong label on a garment leads to the serious problem and cause rejection because wrong label provides wrong information about the garment handling. Uneven Embroidery :- Use of uneven color of thread while doing embroidery or the use of wrong stitches or poor quality of embroidery leads to the rejection of the garment on which embroidery is done. Usage of different type and color of buttons :- The usage of different type and color of buttons in a same fabric leads to the rejection of the garment as it affects the symmetry of the garment. Broken buttons or Snap fastners :- Broken buttons and snap fastner leads to the rejection because they are incapable of closing the garment and giving serious trouble for the wearer of the garment. Color bleeding of Zipper or buttons on garment :- The color bleeding of zippers and buttons on the garment surface affects the harmony of the garment. If color bleeding is visible then piece of that garment is rejected. Improper Prints on T shirts :- Sometimes after making the t shirts the printed logo or texts in the t shirts are not properly printed and hence cause the rejection of the garment.

Button and button holes are not in front of each other :- This defects arises when button and button holes are not in front of each other and leads to the problem in the closing of the garment. Unfinished Buttonhole :- Improper finishing or unfinishing of the buttonhole results in the rejection of garment or lowering the quality of the garment. Using Of Improper Thread for Stitching :- Using the wrong type of thread which have uneven width can cause the breakage of stitch and affects the quality of the garment. So the quality of yarn is a important factor in the stitch of the garment.

Missing Buttons :- It is also a major cause of rejection the garment after the production. Missing buttons in garment lowers its value, cost and use and many of the buyers dont accept missing buttons garments.

Seizing Defects :- These defects arise due to wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of a garment part from other, for example- sleeves of XL size but body of L size. Such defects do not occur has to be seen too. They are accour on very less amount. Improper Patterns :- Improper patterns leads to the cutting of improper panals which are not fit in each other and hence affects the quality of the garment. Also its leads to the improper shape of garment and garment does not fit the body. Attachment of Different Panels of Different Patterns :- In it the panels of one size are attached to the other and thus both sizes of the garments are rejected during the time of the quality inspection. Fabric Defects :- These are defects that are found in the fabric, mostly these are not caused by the sewing lines. e.g. running shade, selvedge to selvedge shade, holes, staining mark, missing yarn, foreign yarn, slub, hairiness etc. They are arise in the fabric before cutting it or even after cutting of the fabric.

Slub or Knot in Garment :- In it thick and uneven spots in the fabric are caused by lint or small lengths of yarn adhering to it, or where two yarns are ends tied together. It is abruptly thickened place in the garment.

Snag in the Garments :- It is a pulled thread in the garment. All the snags are considered defected as they affect the look of the garment.

Color Contamination :- Transfer of color from one garment to other is results in color contamination. All bleeding color and migration are considered defective.

Shading :- Noticeable color difference between the same color garments or the two panels of same garment. Shading that can be seen during visual inspection should be viewed with light box. If shading is visible under cwf light or daylight then product is considered defective.

Yellowing of Fabric :- It is a phenomenon which changes the color of colored fabric to yellow over time. All these yellowing of garments are considered defective.

Yarn Contamination:- In it foreign fibers or soil knitted into the fabric. Contamination which is generally larger than 0.3 cm and which is easily seen should be considered defective.

Fabric Run :- A break in the yarn of fabric that causes the stitch to run along the needle line or a void caused by a missing warp yarn. All fabric runs are considered defective.

Fabric Hole :- Includes holes in the fabric and needle holes. All fabric holes are considered defective.

Fabric Performance :- This includes feel, appearance, texture etc. of the garment that are different from the approved fabric or with discrepancies between garment.

Oil Stains :- these stains on garment comes from machines on which they sewed.