hair conditioner colloids ce 457/527 juan carlos alva nieto ken-tye yong anthony rivers
Post on 20-Dec-2015
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Hair conditioner
Colloids CE 457/527
Juan Carlos Alva Nieto
Ken-Tye Yong
Anthony Rivers
What is hair conditioner?
• To restore hair to its natural state
• Undo damage by giving better look
• Containing cationic surfactants in combination with long chain fatty alcohol and other lipid components.
• leave the hair to be soft, shiny and manageable
Hair conditioner as consumer product
Safety concern
• Toxicity
• Eyes injuries
• Irritation to the skin
Colorants
• Visual appealing
Preservation of consumer products
• Microbial contamination
• Spread of disease
Hair composition
• Morphological• Cortex,
• Cuticle,
• Medulla.
• Intercellular cement
• Chemical• 19 proteins:
– Cystine
– Keratin
– Glutamic acid.
– Leucine, etc.
Interactions of surfactants and polymer with hair
Three main types of interactions:
• Primary valence bonds (ionic and covalent bonds)
• Polar interactions (Hydrogen bonds)
• Dispersion forces (van der waals attractions)
Emulsions
• Emulsion• Mixture liquid / liquid• Surfactant / amphiphilic.• “Water in oil” W/O or “Oil in
Water” O/W.
Oil in Water
O/W.
Water in Oil
W/O
• Microemulsion• Spontaneous formation.
• Thermod stability.
• High solubilization capacity.
• Clear appearance.
Microemulsions and foams
• Microemulsions• Liquid / liquid.
• Stability– Second surfactant.
– Proteins, glucosoides, lipoids, sterols.
– Size bubble.
• Foams • Liquid / gas.
• Micronic layer
• Microscopic bubbles.
• Stability – Second surfactant.
– Viscosity / liquid.
– Proteins (Saponin, etc)
Reconstructer
– Water-based • Microemulsion
• Foam.
– Solubilized proteins and amino acids.• Rebuilding blocks, -hair components-.
• Carry and deposit in the hair surface.
– Benefits.– Flexibility.
– Repair damage.
– Reduction in splits ends.
Formulation
– Hair conditioner composition
Anionic emulsifiers Glycerol stearate 1.5 % Wt
Cetyl alcohol 3 % Wt
Lubricant additives Stearyl dimethicone 4 % Wt
Humectants Glycerin 1.5 % Wt
Propylene glycol 1.5 % Wt
Preservatives Metyl paraben 0.30 % Wt
Carrier Deionized water 87 % Wt
Fragance Not established.
Formulation
– Reconstructer composition
Hydrolyzed proteins
Keratin, hydrogenated soy, yeast, wheat germ glycerides.
Amino acids Cystine, aspartic acid, lauryl glutamate.
Biological additives
Casein, beer, eggs, nettle extract, etc.
Other Vitamins B-12, Inositol, Paba, and Iron.
Adsorption
• How the reconstructer works?• Attachment of the hair conditioner – fundamental.
• Adsorption is very important. (large species).
• Low enough molecular weight proteins
• Penetrate and reconstruct hair fibers.
Detanglers
Objectives and purpose• Removes tangles from hair • Straighten curly and wavy hair • Able to last for a long period• Improve the texture of hair • Easier to comb• Imparts and glass like shine to hair
Ingredients used in detanglers
De-ionized water (94.6 % wt)
1-hexadecanol (co-surfactant) (2.5 % wt)
Glycerin (humectants) (0.5 % wt)
Stearalkonium chloride (cationic surfactant) (1.5 % wt)
Citrus acid (acidifiers) (0.4% wt)
Colorants (0.2 % wt)
Fragrance (oil) (0.3 % wt)
Functions of ingredients
Stearalkonium chloride (Cationic surfactants)
• Positively changed nitrogen atom
• allowed the cationic group to attach negatively charged surfaces
• Neutralized the electrostatic charges on the hair
1-hexadecanol (co-surfactant)
• Act as solubilizers
• To form better microemulsion
• Thermodynamically stable system
Functions of ingredients
Glycerin (humectants)
• Attracted to water
• Penetrate the cuticle
• Stabilize the moisture content within the hair shaft
• Soften and swell dry brittle hair
Citrus acid (acidifiers)
• Dissolve the soap residue on the hair
• eliminate greasy, sticking feeling caused by dirt
Making procedure
• Oil-in-water emulsion (O/W)
• Dissolve water-soluble ingredients. – 60% water
– Heat & Stirring.
• Dissolve oil-soluble ingredients.– Heat / melt solids.
• Keep stirring -10 / 15 min-.
• Add the remained water.
• Cool, add preservative and fragrance.
• Adjust pH and viscosity.
Packaging reconstructers.
• Bottle. • Used for the microemulsion.
• Pump finger foamer.• Instant foaming action (foam).• Mixture liquid/air • No chemical propellant• PET• Easy to operate
Ingredients in Moisturizer
• deionized water 79.03 %• hetoxide G-26 3.0 %• Methyl Paraben .15 %• disodium EDTA .10 %• Hest CSO 10.0 %• Hetol G 2.5 %• Hetol CA 1.5 %• Hetamid MA 1.0 %
Ingredients Continued
• Glyceryl Stearate .70 %• Hetoxamate SA-100 .70 %• Cocoa Butter .50 %• Hest MS .50 %• Hetsorb L-20 .20 %• Propyl Paraben .05 %• Kathon CG .07 %• Glycerol - thickening agent
Production Machinery
Process Diagram
Colloidal Attributes
• Thickness– Makes hair thicker, fuller looking
• Ability to stay in hair – Some conditioners you can leave in all day
• Stability
Design Considerations
• Make hair soft/manageable – Gives it that shine
• Make hairs all lay the same way – Makes hair look smooth
• Seals cuticle layer – Prevents frizzing
• Prevent split ends
Surfactants used in Moisturizer
• Ability to form micelle
• Hydrophobic and hydrophilic parts
• Form cross link
Marketing Considerations
• Labeling – Tells active ingredients
• Commercials– Shows results of using product
• Different needs for different hairs– Sum need more moisture– Some for dyed, color treated hairs
Packaging
• Materials used – Post consumer recycled plastics– Make containers soft, squeezable