street

Featuring

“Subcultures gave me a space to fully express myself,and find like-minded friends.”

La Carmina

The beautiful rose - Audrey Kitching

Sea Punk Style

Irony in Subculture at the Met Gala

and more...

STREETphoto credit Ke7dbx

photo credit audi_insperation Swanage, UK

in the issue

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38

4858

9. Editor’s Note

12. Sea Punk BeautyThis throwback street culture inspired our stylist, Dee Dee Butters to create these ethereal images.

20. Public ArtWith Toronto’s condo boom, what are some developers doing to stay current and offer their communities more?

44. Subculture, Irony and FashionWhat happens when a subculiture becomes mainstream? This year’s Met Gala showcases the couture inspiration of the 1970s Punk style movement.

On the cover: La Carmina photographed by Said Karlsson

contributors

Said Karlsson

Lulu Kukukachoo

Alexei Bazdarev

Maria Castillo Clara Li

Diane Gaughan

Dee Dee Butters

Kirsten Barkved

Rebecca Perrone

Giulio Iurissevich

the team

Curator

Fashion Editor

Designer

Gilda Furgiuele

Bianca Wahab

Sean Rioux

Editor’s Note

Photo credit Aart van Bezooyen

Spring is always a fun season. It brings renewal and life not only to nature but to the streets! As a culture it seems, once the milder weather hits, we all ease out of our winter hibernations and take on spring with a bang! We purchase the newest spring trends right away and wear them out and about, explore the resurfacing city, and hit up the newly opened patios. In terms of fashion and culture, some of the very best comes out this season, and ADONE has taken this theme as our newest exploration in our spring issue: STREET!

This issue boasts some amazing features we are more than proud to share with you including an interview and editorial of our cover girl, La Carmina (Canadian fashion and travel blogger, and subculture journalist). We also have the privilege of showcasing a stunning editorial featuring social media and pop culture beauty, Audrey Kitching!

However you choose to celebrate and embrace spring, we hope we have given you inspiration with the features in our newest issue, and that you take your new musings to the street!

Bianca & Gilda

Sea Punk QueenStyling, hair, and make-up by Dee Dee ButtersPhotographed by Gilda Furgiuele

PUBLICWith Toronto’s mandate to beautify the city, condo developers are reacting by offering more for its clients. by Rebecca Perrone

“...it seems developers have discovered a golden formula to building condos - one that harnesses the branding power of art.” - Justine Iaboni

You don’t have to look very far to see the huge presence condos have in our cities. It seems as though wherever you look, a new condo is under construction. With so many options in regards to location, condo developers must find ways to make their properties stand out from the rest. Today, developers are turning to the creative talents of local and international artists to add that extra flare to their properties.

Using art as a vehicle to sell their properties, is a method used by one of the many condo developers such as ART Condos in Parkdale, Toronto. Potential buyers visiting the property are often blown away by the beautifully decorated interiors. There’s much to be said about the power of art; an abstract painting or graphic print can easily add vivacity to an empty room. This makes it much easier for prospective buyers to imagine themselves living in the suites. Details such as antique vases or handmade sculptures can certainly have a role in a buyers decision. Instead of staring at boring white walls, art pieces make the buying experience more enjoyable.

Toronto artist Claire Hall creates custom art pieces for ART Condos. Before she begins working on a piece, she ensures that she has as much information in regards to the suite as possible. She often visits the condos herself, or has the developer send her photos of details, such as the architecture, size, and wall colours. By doing this, Hall is able to customize art pieces that are catered to a specific living space.

Hall is positive that her art has a positive impact when it comes to closing the deal. “When potential buyers come in and see original art in the space, they think the place has more value, or a high price tag associated with it, as opposed to prints,” says Hall. “It’s happened where I’ve staged a home with art and they end up writing the art into the deal when they buy the home, so I know art was an influencing factor.”

Toronto is a city that is very supportive of public arts initiatives. The Percentage for Public Art Program provides funding for the installations of public art in the city’s communities. The plan allows one percent of construction costs to be allocated to the production and installation of public art. This initiative is truly a great way of enriching the power of art within the community.

The importance and value of public art is at the core of Concord CityPlace, a residential community in Toronto. The vision of the developer, Gabriel Leung is devoted to embracing public art in the community. “Public art is a very integral part of our community development. It really adds a lot to the quality of life in the public realm,” Leung says.

Currently, CityPlace is home to 15 outdoor art installations, with more on the way. Some of the existing pieces include Tom Thompson’s canoe, and a homage to Terry Fox.

The process of having your art publically displayed in Toronto is certainly not easy. When a developer decides to add public art to their property, they must first consult with the architect to ensure the location of the installation is appropriate. Following the architect’s approval, the developer then seeks the assistance of an art consultant who provides a portfolio of artists. After a lengthy interview procedure, a short-list is made. But that’s not all, the public art must then be approved by the Toronto Public Art Commission.

There is no doubt that art installations can add to the value and integrity of a property. For those who are passionate about the arts, living in these artistic enclaves means living with others who are dedicated to enriching the power of art within the community. And that truly is a beautiful thing.

The Vanguard Art of Giulio Iurissevich

Favourite medium?“I use a lot of pen and ink with vector and bitmap softwares and my tablet”

What are your inspirations?“They come from everywhere, from emotions, images of the mind that comes from I don’t know where. How-ever, when I’m commissioned from the brief of the client, that is more difficult sometimes because I have to create a “perfect accident” within deadlines etc. But I think that leaving fear for the result is the best way to reach a true artistic result. Most beautiful works are always a perfect accident , authentic, spontaneous, un-controllable. This is inspiration for me.”

How long have you been illustrating?“Since I was born I think. I’ve creating images with my thoughts and emotions since I have memories, to discover myself.”

Analogue or digital?“I love both, the most important thing for me is creating images Digital is a power-ful world, probably the best planet for an image maker like me that loves mixing things”

What’s next for you?“Living moment by mo-ment, in the present, doing all things with love.”

Photographed by Alexei BazdarevModel Maharani VolmerMake-up & Hair by Martina Burkhardt

The Streets of Hamburg

Kissed by a RoseAudrey Kitching

Photographed by Diane GaughanHair, Makeup & Styling by Audrey Kitching

Vintage shawlCrystal cactus Alex and Audrey ringBarbara C pellegrino shark ringNecklace H&MEarrings Brazil

Barbara C Pellegrino cluster ringEarrings Alex ChloeUrban ringTopshop bra

Bangle Karen LondonEarrings TopshopCrystal Cactus Alex and Audrey ringBarbara C pellegrinoLace dress vintage

Sid Vicious, 1977Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph © Dennis Morris - all rights reserved

Subculture, Irony and Fashion

The annual Met Gala pays homage to the grit and grim of Punk style. From Chaos to Cotoure - a look into the double edge sword of a street style turned institution of fashion.

by Kirsten Barkved

Karl Lagerfeld (French, born Hamburg, 1938) for House of Chanel (French, founded 1913) Vogue, March 2011 Courtesy of The Metropoli-tan Museum of Art, Photograph by David Sims

“Punk’s signature mixing of references was fueled by artistic developments such as Dada and postmodernism,” said Thomas P. Campbell, Director and CEO of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, “so it makes sense to present this exhibition in a museum that also shows the broader output of those movement”

Once, when I was fifteen and full of pubescent sass, teenage angst and rationale the size of my pinky fingernail, I attempt-ed to distinguish myself from the mass crowd of my high school by dying my hair a bright, clown nose red. This, I was convinced, would set me apart from the masses, push back against what everyone and their mother wanted me to be. Boxed hair dye was bought, plastic gloves went on, virginal hair corrupted, and an hour later, I had done what I thought to be edgy, non-conventional and anti-everyone else. My small moment of oppositional beautification was small, and hardly even a moment, and really only turned my hair a light auburn instead of an obnoxious traffic light red. But for an hour in the bathroom, hovering over my mother’s porce-lain sink, I stuck it to the man by breaking from conventional standards for how society wanted my hair to be. It pales in comparison, but what my pitiful at home dye job and Punk have in common is our conscious manipulation of our identity, whatever it is that identity is. Oppositional dress is a major facet of subculture fashion, and New York City’s Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum of Art will open their Spring 2013 exhibition entitled “Punk: Chaos to Culture”. Made possible by Moda Operandi, it examines Punk fashion, a branch of street style, and it’s im-pact on high fashion from the 1970’s to contemporary stand-ings. Hosted and Co-chaired by Rooney Mara, Lauren Santo Domingo, Riccardo Tisci and Anna Wintour, the opening exhibition and fundraising event takes place on May 6th. The irony, of course, is that Punk, a subculture with an ideol-ogy, aesthetic, and political theme associated with anti-es-tablishment, anti-fashion and individual agency messages, is being displayed in just that—an institution, and an institution that is dedicated to fashion.

John Lydon, 1976Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Richard Young/Rex USA

Andrew Bolton, Curator in the Costume Institute, said: “Although punk’s democracy stands in opposition to fashion’s autocracy, designers continue to appropriate punk’s aesthetic vocabu-lary to capture its youthful rebelliousness and aggressive forcefulness.” Punk has a long history that is rooted in punk rock music of the 1970’s. Often it is associ-ated with the punk rock music that it is centered around, and it’s the kind of music that your grandpa is constantly confounded by, i.e. loud and aggressive with some distorted guitars, hectic drumming. The most known cultural marker of Punk subculture, though, is the fashion choices that in-dividuals make, which articulates an anti-fashion mandate that attempts an authenticity and strives for individualism. A “true” punk, then, is not just someone who listens to Sex Pistols and styles their hair in a green Mohawk, (this, my friend, is your regular, run of the mill “pos-er”, an inauthentic, less valued version of ), but one who eats, lives, breathes and dies by the philosophies and mandate of punk (which has rhizomes in the revolution-wanting youthful dissatisfaction with the apparent boring rock scene during London’s 1970’s). But where there is an explicit irony in the display of historical and contemporary Punk and Punk trends in the exhibition, what is equally as ironic is the concept of Punk being anti-fash-ion. Nothing can be anti-fashion, unless one joins a nudist colony or goes streaking. There is at work within Punk fashion a strategic production of the self which calls attention to the ways in which style and self are constructed within mainstream culture. And so the safety pins, the gelled Mohawks, the all black, the ripped and torn edges of vests, the strong desire to remain authentic, all are deconstructions of constructed fashions. That is, Punk is not anti-fashion. It is fashion doing identity work in a subculture with the very same tools of the parent culture that it works so hard to push back against. So even though the conceptions surrounding Punk involve a “don’t-care-man” mentality that is telling of their anti institutional mandate, the interesting thing is that while Punk points to the flaws and faults of dominant society at large, of the supposed passivity, constructed arti-fice of the mainstream through their oppositional dress, they also point to their own fabrica-tion. That is, Punk fashion, i.e. ripped or torn clothing, safety pin sutures on seams, points to how fashion codes are constructed. Like my botched box dye hair attempt, Punk’s ideology centers around a pushing back against conventions. Yet both subculture and parent culture rely on one another to exist. Through a display of their deconstruction of clothing, Punk fash-ion points to how identity itself is an artifice, a constant construction, both within and outside of dominant culture. Punk: Chaos to Couture then is a layered exhibition full of significance. The co option of Punk, a subculture with a street fashion that does resistant, subversive work, into a showcase of contemporary fashion that reflect Punk trends speaks to how fashion (couture and street) and Punk, do not occupy oppositional camps, but rather are fluid, cohesive and co-dependant on one another. The exhibition opens May 6th and runs until August

La CarminaSubculture fashion and travel champion

Images by Tokyo Street Style photographer Said KarlssonHair by Kukukachoo

Dress by Liz LisaShoes by Micheal Kors

Can you tell us a little bit about yourself?Today, I’m a travel TV host, journalist, and underground fashion/culture blogger. A decade ago, I was a Goth kid from Vancouver, Canada -- who had no idea any of this was in her future!

I started La Carmina blog in September 2007, when blogging was relatively new. At the time, I was studying law but it wasn’t my cup of tea, so my blog was a much-needed creative out-let. I loved chronicling my passions for alternative travel, dark fashion, theme restaurants, Goth clubs -- and my plump Scottish Foldcat, Basil Farrow.

I never expected I would do TV, or even travel widely. However, producers discovered my LaCarmina blog and began inviting me to be on TV shows, including National Geographic “Taboo,” Discovery’s “Oddities”, NHK “Kawaii TV,” and Travel Channel’s “Bizarre Foods.” Since we kept getting offers, my “First Mate” Naomi Rubin and I started a TV production and fixing company called “La Carmina & The Pirates”. As youth culture insiders, we help our clients get access to underground culture, and film episodes in Japan and worldwide.

I also began writing for CNN and Huffington Post, and my focus gravitated to travel journal-ism. Right now, I host a video series published in AOL / Huff Post; I’ve showcased Day of the Dead in Mexico, Prague absinthe, New York Fashion Week and more.

Today, I travel constantly for my work in travel TV and video presenting. I just finished press trips to Phoenix and Miami, and am doing a1-hour documentary shoot in Tokyo.

What is it about street style and subcultures that really draw you in?Even as a child, I felt dissatisfied with the dominant culture and people around me. In my early teens, I began exploring Alt/Punk/Goth fashion, music, and lifestyle -- I felt much more at home in this “darker” world. Subcultures gave me a space to fully express my-self, and find like-minded friends. Today, I maintain a strong connection to the alternative Goth Punk scene in Harajuku: a place for misfits to band together and express themselves through their clothes and culture. Not many people were aware of this scene outside of Japan, so I was compelled to share this wonderful world of Visual Kei bands, Gothic Lolita designers and wild club nights through my blog. Today, coverage has expanded to dark/bi-zarre culture and travel worldwide, but Tokyo’s underground heartbeat continues to beat through all the posts.

How large is your closet?I confess that my clothes are everywhere, in multiple closets and rooms! I try not to accu-mulate too much -- I stick to investment pieces, borrow items, and sell or give clothing to friends. Still, I end up buried in a mountain of leather and studs.

When globe trotting, are you an advocate for the “less is more” notion? When packing, what are your travel must-haves?Since I’m always traveling to host TV shows, I have to have a certain number of clothes for my on-camera work. However, I try to minimize as much as I can; for example, I’ll bring a pair of shoes that can match several different outfits.

For the past few years, I haven’t gone anywhere without my iPhone. Today’s travel coverage relies heavily on social media sharing, such as uploading photos on Instagram and using hashtags. A camera is a must; I mostly shoot with a Canon Powershot S100, arguably the best hand-held on the market.

For more information visit:

www.lacarmina.comwww.saidkarlsson.com

What is great about your job is that you are expected to be more daring (read: creative not skimpy) with your clothing choices. Do you have any insight for those that want to mix in more of their street style clothing into a more a conser-vatively dressed work environment?I recommend mixing in high-quality, subtle pieces into work outfits (leave the Satan t-shirt at home!). For example, you might pair a conservative outfit with a steampunk ring. Or wear a black dress with rose-patterned tights. Personally, I prefer to keep the two worlds separate: I’ll go all-out for a party, but wear something subdued torun errands.

You are smart and successful - graduating from law school in your early 20s from Yale and running a popular blog, TV production company, and author. There is a common opinion that in order to be successful you must dress the part especially when it comes to what is appropriate for a woman to wear for work. What are your thoughts about smart and successful women when it comes to clothing?Success comes in so many different forms that it’s hard to apply a general rule about clothing. If I went for a law career, I couldn’t dress the way I do. However, there are many successful artists, designers, etc who are known and celebrated for their flamboyant style. One way to stand out (or have a “personal brand”) is by dressing a recognizable way -- whether it’s pink hair or power suits.

There is a certain quality about you that aids in bridging a gap between “weird” or “strange” subcultures and trends and the more tight-laced communities. Do you do this intentionally or is it a by-product of your interests, personality, and intelligence? Is making Japanese subcultures widely accepted a personal modus operandi?I’m fascinated with the way alt culture expresses itself around the world: such as Gothic Lolita fashion in Japan, extreme body modifications in Arizona, hardcore fetish events in Berlin. Since these lifestyles are often misunderstood, it’s my personal aim to do coverage that’s professional, fair and positive. I don’t expect everyone to see subcultures from my perspective, but I hope the reporting helps open people’s eyes, or at least start a conversation.

Are there any new trends or subcultures you’ve seen emerge and are dying to feature?I’m endlessly fascinated with extreme body modifications. I recently met Steve Haworth, a famous modder based in Phoenix; he’s working on light-up subdermal implants that flash to the beat of music. I’m also excited to see my friend Keroppy Maeda in Tokyo (best known for bagelhead infla-tion), and interview him about his formaldehyde art exhibit.

Certain subcultures of the past in the West fade the moment it becomes mainstream, and become less relevant be-cause of this (British Punk comes to mind). Though it seems (at least to me) that Japanese clothing and music move-ments don’t follow that trend; the notoriety is welcomed. Do you think that is the case? Any thoughts on why that is?In Japan, subculture fashion is generally a visual expression, and doesn’t have further meaning than that. For example, not all Tokyo Punks listen to punk music or feel a connection to anarchic values. They wear the clothes as a visual identity without ties to social rebellion. Since these sub-culture styles have a different role in Japanese society, they don’t evolve along the same path as in the West.

Dress by Liz LisaShoes and Sweater by Peace Now

A Day in the Park

Photographed by Maria José CastilloStyling by Clara LiModel: Michiel T. @ 5th Avenue Model ManagementPhotographer’s Assistant: Jordi Heras

Left:Boilersuit: Charlotte LlamasJumper: H&MJacket: Charlotte LlamasScarf: H&MHat: MangoGlasses: OakleyBoots: H&MRight:Shirt: Charlotte LlamasSweater: H&MTrousers: Charlotte LlamasJacket: Levi’sScarf: H&MGlasses: OakleySocks: H&MShoes: H&M

Left:Shirt: Charlotte LlamasSweater: H&MTrousers: Charlotte LlamasJacket: Charlotte LlamasBowtie: H&MHat: ZaraGlasses: Hugo ContiShoes: H&MRight:Shirt: Charlotte LlamasTrousers: Charlotte LlamasJacket: Levi’sBowtie: H&MHat: ZaraSocks: H&MBoots: H&M

ISSUE 4SUMMER

AQUA