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The Jackson Hole Skiing Magazine is a winter travelers’ guide for vacationers to the Jackson Hole Ski Resort, Grand Targhee Ski Resort, and Snow King Ski Resort. Visitors will also enjoy the scenic and wildlife splendor of Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks in this informational magazine illustrated by the photography of Wade McKoy and Bob Woodall, as well as information on backcountry skiing, wildlife viewing, snowmobiling, dog sledding, maps, shopping, and other winter options.

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: Jackson Hole Skier Magazine 2014
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www. focusproduc t i ons . com4 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2014

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RESORTS8 Jackson Hole Mountain Resort16 Stash Parks at JHMR17 Adaptive Skiing20 Snow King Mountain Resort25 Teton Ice Park32 Grand Targhee Resort

BACKCOUNTRY18 Beacon Parks, Avy Hazard Lab, Avy Education19 Helicopter Skiing in Jackson Hole36 Mountain Guides’ Advice41 Teton Pass Ambassador’s Report50 Helicopter Skiing in Alaska

PEOPLE & EVENTS14 Village Center Building Demolished15 Camping Out For Winter’s First Tram18 S&S Couloir Birthday Plunge19 Kastle Retailer of the Year24 Town Downhill26 Ski Club Race Kids Sampler27 Doug Coombs Foundation28 Resi, Seppi, and Pepi Stiegler – a ski-racing legacy30 Tommy Moe – from ski racing to powder skiing31 Jonathan Selkowitz – FIS Journalist of the Year40 Kit DesLauriers – 1st female solo descents42 Kim Havell – 1st female descent of Otter Body46 Teton County Search And Rescue56 Photospread – 9 photographer-athlete collaborations70 Ski Town Jobs – locals tell stories, give insight80 TreeFight, SHIFT – local activism targets global change82 DEEP – the book82 Way of Life, Frosty Flakes – the movies83 Winter’s Wind – the making of a life-work ski film84 Videos – valley youths get after it89 In Memoriam

DIVERSIONS44 Alpine Medical Advice48 Sled Dog Tours86 Winter Activities and Events90 Snowmobiling92 Business Directory95 Lodging Directory96 Resort Trail Maps98 Town of Jackson Map

Cover: skier Jason Tattersall; photo Wade McKoyContents: skier Daniel Tisi; photo Wade McKoy / TGRPublishers: Bob Woodall and Wade McKoy, dba Focus Produc-tions, Inc.; Editor: Wade McKoy; Copy Editor: Mike Calabrese;Photo Manager: Eric Rohr; Art Director: Janet Melvin;Ads: Bob Woodall, Nanci Montgomery.The JACKSON HOLE SKIER annual winter visitor’s guide is free when pickedup at one of 160 distribution points throughout Jackson Hole. Receive one inthe mail by sending $5 to JH SKIER, P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, WY, 83001.

Contributing Photographers: Chris Figenshau, Mark Fisher, TristanGreszko, Gabe Rogel, Jonathan Selkowitz, David Stubbs, GregVon Doersten, Patrick Nelson, Eric Seymour, Rich Goodwin, RobKingwill, Angel Rodri, Kit DesLauriers, Jay Pistono, Brian Warren,Chris Wilde, Court Lev, Eric Layton, Frank Shine.

Copyright—2014 by Focus Productions, Inc. (fpi). All rightsreserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced inany form without written permission from the publisher.

facebook.com/focusjh

Check out the website – jhskier.net

CONTENTS

Printed in the U.S.A.

Page 9: Jackson Hole Skier Magazine 2014

2014 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 9

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No Name Peak, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort backcountry, snowboarder unknown

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The next subtle change – the transforma-tion of the old trout pond/ice skating rink intothe new Village Commons – created the grav-itas for a truly worthy tribal circle. A summerplaza for water-spout frolicking and outdoorconcerts, in winter the Village Commonsmorphs into an elaborately sculpted icepalace and sledding hill. It’s a kid magnet.Waiting adults can warm themselves aroundthe gas-lit bonfire or join in the play.“It’s the little things that make people ex-

plore the village,” said Anna Cole, JHMRcommunications manager.By many accounts, Teton Village has now

matured into a world-class resort thatmatches the long-renowned majesty of Ren-dezvous Mountain.

Ranked #1Resort officials, the Town of Jackson, and

the community at large celebrated whennews broke that the Jackson Hole MountainResort was, as SKI magazine’s KimberlyBeekman wrote, “deemed this year by SKIreaders to be the best in North America. Asurprise upset, perhaps – but our only sur-prise was that JH hadn’t won sooner.”No doubt, many locals agree. SKI maga-

zine’s reader survey also ranked JacksonHole #1 in four individual categories: OverallSatisfaction, Character, Variety, and Chal-lenge.Jackson Hole notched wins in 2011 and

‘12 when Forbes magazine ranked it #1 SkiArea in the United Sates two years in a row –using the criteria of “Awesomeness.” TheForbes ranking highlighted new lift improve-ments, great snow, and the resort’s growingstatus as a culinary destination. “It’s the bestskiing mountain in North America,” declaredForbes.

Most Winter Visits EverIn a perfect storm of landmark achieve-

ments, winter 2012/13 ended with the high-est level of skier/rider visits in the resort’shistory. Totaling approximately 502,222, it’sthe first time JHMR had broken the half-mil-lion mark, a level that only about 20 resortscan claim.To their credit, the Kemmerer Family in-

vested an average $8 million per year for thepast 17 years in resort improvements. Mostrecently, the new high-speed Casper Chairliftand the “All New, All Blue” campaign of ter-rain modification and extensive groomingdrew unabashed praise from intermediate-level riders. Expert skiers enjoyed it, too.

Teton Village has matured

into a world-class resort

that matches the

long-renowned majesty

of Rendezvous Mountain.

The Village Commons Ice Palace

AJ Cargill, Amphitheater

BobWoodallp

hotos

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“Guests have shown their appreciation bygiving high scores to our snow-condition sur-veys – a 7.7 on a scale of 10,” said resortpresident Jerry Blann. “You’d need to goback to the incredible snow year of2007/2008 (605” vs. 385” this year) to seesurvey scores that high.” The resort recentlyexpanded its fleet of groomers and plans tocontinue investing in grooming.Guest-services scores pegged ever

higher, even with increased visitation. “Ouremployees are taking service seriously, and itis showing,” said Blann.

Nonstop Flights from 12 CitiesThis list keeps growing, too. Cities with di-

rect flights to J.H. now include Newark, JFK,Chicago, Houston, San Francisco, Denver,Atlanta, Minneapolis, Salt Lake City, Dallas,Los Angeles, and Seattle.

Get On The Slopes QuickerWith New RFID Gates

“Open says-me!” No more ticket or passscans. You don’t even have to take the new JCard out of your pocket. The gate magicallyopens for you by using the radio frequencyID technology (RFID). No need for your wal-let, either. The J Card has Resort Charge En-abling technology – you can embed a creditcard or a pre-loaded amount. But keep itaway from your cell phone, iPod, or foil-wrapped gum and cold medicine; all can

wipe out the data. Don’t worry, though: thelifties are still there to help with this hands-free, hassle-free, lift access.

JH Tapped / TwitterThe jacksonhole.com website is also

smartphone-compatible. Download the re-sort’s free app for maps, weather, useful tips,and mountain info. See which runs aregroomed and which are closed. Locate your-self and your friends and family on the Jack-son Hole trail map, courtesy of GoogleLatitude. Record your runs and log verticalfeet and distance. Display your tracks and re-play your runs on the trail map. E-mail im-ages to friends, post them to Facebook, or

view them in Google Earth. This smartphoneapp does all that and much more. Check theresort’s Twitter # for frequent updates onsnow conditions and lift statuses.

Mountain HostsJackson Hole Mountain Hosts lead com-

plimentary orientation tours for intermediate-level skiers, departing from the MountainHosts’ meeting place daily at 9:30 a.m. Addi-tional tours for advanced/expert clientele de-part from the top of Rendezvous Bowl on thehour, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Backcountry YurtLuxury in the backcountry: an overnight

stay in the Rock Springs Yurt. Your ski guideprepares dinner, dessert, breakfast, and hotdrinks. Ski to the yurt through the backcoun-try gates or tour up from the base to the sce-nic location in lower Rock Springs.Don’t want to stay overnight? Ask about

the hot gourmet lunch option or an Aprés Skievent.

Vertical-Foot ClubBecome a lifetime member of the Jackson

Hole Vertical-Foot Club by skiing 100,000feet in a week. Earn a certificate of achieve-ment and a Western belt buckle for a lifetimetotal of 300,000, 500,000, and 1,000,000 feet.Open to all visitors. For more details on howto enroll, check in with the Customer Service

“Guests have showntheir appreciation bygiving high scores toour snow-conditionsurveys – a 7.7 on ascale of 10.”

Hannah Horigan, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort backcountry

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Nate Siegler;Lost Lifty, JHMR back-country. See thestop-action sequenceof Nate’s front flip@ jhskier.net

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Research

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Center. Smartphone users can download thefree JH Tapped App to log vertical feet byGPS.

On-mountain DiningTop of the World Waffles – Ride the aerial

tram to the summit and enter Corbet’s Cabinfor freshly made sweet or savory waffles.Headwall Pizza and Dog House – At the

Gondola summit, a casual restaurant servingfresh pizza, Kobe hot dogs, house-madesoups, and gourmet grab-n-go items.Espresso bar and tea.Rendezvous – At the Gondola summit,

floor-to-ceiling windows provide impressiveviews. Asian bowls and hand-rolled sushi,grill meals, full salad bar, and Idaho Salt-baked Potatoes.Couloir – At the Gondola summit, casual

dining, full-service lunch. Favorites includethe Snake River Farms Kobe N.Y. Strip Sand-wich, Poached Pear “Waldorf” Salad. Non-skiers can purchase a gondola sightseeingticket.Casper Restaurant – Classic gourmet ski

comfort food. Burger bar, burritos, hot drinkswith a kick.

Environmental ResponsibilitySituated in one of the world’s most pris-

tine environments, the resort steadfastlymaintains its pro-environment practices.The Couloir and the Deck restaurants are

members of 1% for the Planet, further com-plimenting their already established eco-friendly practices: the majority of ingredientscome from within a 250-mile radius; menusare designed seasonally to reduce the carbonfootprint, and local farmers’ markets andranches are extensively resourced.Jackson Hole Mountain Resort is a found-

ing member of the Climate Challenge, an in-novative sustainability program that aims toreduce greenhouse gas emissions from theski industry.JHMR also has a Golden Eagle Environ-

mental Award, the highest standard of envi-ronmental achievement in the ski industryissued by the National Ski Area Association.The resort is celebrating its seventh year with

an ISO 14001 registration, one of only twoU.S. resorts to receive the designationawarded businesses that minimize their envi-ronmental impact. Specifics include purchas-ing sustainable food and beverage products,converting vehicles to run on waste veg-etable oil, modifying furnaces to achieve a20-percent reduction in fuel use, and recy-cling used motor oil, batteries, antifreeze, andsnowmelt.The resort is also generating a Green-

house Gas Inventory and Management Plandesigned to further reduce energy use, givingit the triple crown of environmental manage-ment: ISO 14001 registration, GHG Inventory,and an accompanying GHG ManagementPlan.And in the fight to save the whitebark pine

from chronic beetle infestation that has killedvast numbers of the 1,000-year-old, high-alti-tude species, JHMR and the Bridger TetonNational Forest last summer sprayed 250trees and placed pheromone patches on 575trees.

JHMR continued from page 12

Let’s Be Friends!youtube.com/user/jacksonholemtnresort

facebook.com/jacksonhole

twitter.com/jhski

pinterest.com/jacksonholemtn/

foursquare.com/jhski

web.stagram.com/n/jacksonholemtnrst/

THE VILLAGE CENTER GOES DOWNThe Village Center, built in 1964 as the Seven Levels Inn, was demol-

ished last fall to make way for private luxury condos.At the time of destruction, the iconic gathering place was home to The

Village Café, Teton Gravity Research, and Wildernest Sports, among oth-ers. Surviving nearly five decades of ski area history – embedded in theski-bum lifestyle and steeped in tradition – The Village Center housed amyriad of businesses, including Teton Village Sports, the Rendezvous Bar,Captain Video, Teton Video, the Bear Claw Café (Gelunde Quaff birthplace),Lee’s Tees, Village Center Inn, Focus West Photography, Henderson’sLockers, and the ski school locker room.With the demise of the center, tenant businesses scattered.Eventually, the VC rose to the Inn and TGR regrouped in Wilson. Some,

though, will not rise again. A fond farewell to Wildernest Sports.Now only three buildings from the resort’s 1964 opening remain – the

Alpenhof, Nick Wilson’s Cowboy Cafe, and the Sojourner (remodeled intothe Snake River Lodge).

— Jackson Hole Skier

The Village Center, named the Seven Levels and one of four original buildingsin 1965 Teton Village, opened while the tram was still under construction.Paul McCollister and Alex Morley studied plans on the hood of their Buick.

The last icons standing – The Village Cafe and the ski lockers. Last call. Tricia Ireland tending bar at the old VC.

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— Jackson Hole Skierwith excerpts from jacksonhole.com

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here aren’t many places in the world where a citizen can strap ona pair of long skis and race in a downhill,” said Jim Sullivan, Snow

King’s ski area manager from 1984 to 2010.The Town Downhill (TDH) has been a Jackson tradition since 1982.

The origin of its nickname, the Mini-Hahnenkamm, dates back to the1950s, when Jim Huidekoper, one of the ski area’s founders, namedSnow King’s steepest run The Steilhang because it reminded him of aslope on Austria’s famed peak, the Hahnenkamm.Pro-division racers hit speeds of 70 mph as they schuss Grizzly top

to bottom in less than a minute. The Steilhang rushes towards racersas they rocket out of The Chute. Shitzenpantzen absolutely gets theirattention, followed by The Pro Bump and The Money Turn.Speed and camaraderie are common denominators among veteran

TDH racers.Veteran TDH racer and announcer Ben Wilson said, “The true king

of the TDH is Adam McCool, who’s been in every one.”

Longtime sponsor and TDH veteran Rick Hunt said, “I pushed foradding a junior division and now the teenagers love it!”Veteran TDH racer Rob Watsabaugh said, “The guy that has the

most fun wins. I’ve been winning every year.”Crystal Wright, three-year women’s pro division champion, four-year

amateur champion, said, “The Town Downhill is my all-time favoritecommunity event and once-a-year downhill adrenaline rush.”Former Olympic Nordic ski jumper Hans Johnstone places the TDH

top in the “rush” catagory. “It’s the only thing that gives me the adrena-line rush that I got from ski jumping.”Aaron Pruzan, a TDH race veteran and organizer said, “It’s scary

fun, the Mini-Hahnenkamm. Steeps, high speed, big air. Hacks canrace against Olympians. Always among the most fun weekends andbest party. Be there!”Info at Jhskiclub.org

— Jackson Hole Skier

Photo captionTown downhille

Hans Johnstone, son Sasha Ben Wilson Adam McCool Rick HuntJustin Watsabaugh

75th Anniversary Town Downhill & Olympic Celebration75th Anniversary Town Downhill & Olympic Celebration

Ben Blakely, a coach with the Jackson Hole Ski Club, is seen here winning the Fat and Baggy category in the 2013 Town Downhill.

WadeMcK

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Jonathan

Selkowitz

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“My dad, Pepi, is Austrian and my sourcefor constant inspiration. Papa won a silvermedal in giant slalom at his first Olympics inSquaw Valley, California. He also won aBronze in GS and a Gold in slalom in the1964 Olympics in Innsbruck, Austria. Papahas a trophy for winning the prestigiousLauberhorn combined (downhill and slalom).In 1961, he won three FIS A-1 slalom races(World Cup predecessor) and was the Aus-trian Champion.”— Resi Stiegler

From your years of racing on the Aus-trian Ski Team, what still resonates today?Pepi Stiegler: “I wanted to excel in some-

thing in my life. Athletics, sports, was a path, aroad, for me to achieve something significant,and would ultimately improve my life.“My race career was relatively short. I got

onto the Austrian Team in ’59/60 and I quit rightafter the Olympics. I could have stayed in thecareer longer if I wanted to, but I didn’t want to.I had achieved what I was struggling for, whatI had on my mind. So I felt like, why continue?“This is a little bit different from today. The

racer, he or she, continues to race to obtain

money from sponsors, just by starting. It was-n’t that way in those days. I was hoping thatsome person, some ski resort, would be veryinterested in me because I won a Gold Medal.And it was that way.”Who was your mentor?“Othmar Schneider, our coach and an

Olympic champion, was specifically trainingme for Squaw Valley. He shaped me up to bequalified in all three events. I won a Silver ingiant slalom and that year the French beat thehell out of the Austrians in downhill with theirski-base technology. Othmar also recom-mended me to Paul McCollister and Alex Mor-ley, owners of Jackson Hole Ski Resort, for theski school director job.”Where are your Olympic medals?“I gave the medals to the mayor of Lienz,

Austria, my home town. This is an interestingstory. I was in the 1960 Olympics in SquawValley and I got a Silver medal. There was noproblem. But in ’64, other athletes wanted toget on the select team of four, and there’re 12men on the team who could win. The Lienzfolks got very worked up about me not beingnominated, and were very outspoken. The

Austrian Ski Team leadership did ultimately de-cide on me. They are the heroes because theymade the right decision – because I won! Des-tiny? I don’t know. But I gave the medals to thecity of Lienz. They deserved to have them.”

“My brother Seppi and I grew up in a logcabin in the woods, five miles from the nearesttown of Wilson, pop. 202. He’s still my bestfriend and favorite training partner. He graduatedfrom DU (University of Denver) and was on theVarsity Ski Team. His freshman year he nabbedthe Silver Medal in Slalom and earned First TeamAll-American Honors.—Resi Stiegler

Describe the ski-racing lifestyle.Seppi Stiegler: “Fun. The excitement.

Challenge. Something you invest yourself in.Time and energy. Seeing the fruits of yourlabor. And it’s a social thing as well. I havegreat teammates. I’m on Team America – fourski racers selected and sponsored by theAlpine America Foundation. It’s a new thing, anew trend filling a void, a missing pipeline foralpine technical skiers. I have priority for Eu-ropa Cup races and the NorAm series, and to

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Pepi Stiegler winning at the 1961 Austrian Championships in Lienz. Resi Stiegler (top) and Seppi Stiegler (bottom) race on the World Cup.

KEEPERSOFTHEFLAME

The Stiegler Ski-racing Legacy

Jonathan

Selkowitzphotos(2);PhotocourtesyPepiStiegler

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What race highlights still stick with you?My first breakthrough was at the Whistler

World Cup downhill in ’93. I started mid-fieldand finished in second place. I rememberbuckling my boots, thinking ‘Here we go, I’mready to rock.’ Went out of the starting gatelooking for speed the whole way down. Every-thing felt like I was in complete control.The next year I had a great season again, in

’94, when I won the Olympic downhill in Lille-hammer, Norway. ’93, ’94, ’95 seasons weremy best. I got to see all the great ski resortsthroughout Switzerland, Austria, France, Italy.Raced all the big downhills – Kitzbuhel, Wen-gen, Val Gardena, Bormio. I personally likedthe Kvjitjell, Norway, and the Whistler down-hills best.During your childhood what inspired you

to pursue alpine ski racing?My dad inspired me to pursue racing. We

grew up skiing at Whitefish, Montana; they hada good program. My brother Mike was a big in-spiration, too. Back then racing was the onlyavenue you could take to the professionallevel. There were no half-pipes or terrain parks.Just mountain terrain, natural hits. I was intoskiing and I loved the racing aspect. I tried tobe the best that I could be, and it took me allover the world. When I made the National

Team – I was on the U.S. Ski Team for 12 years– I traveled to Europe, South America, NewZealand, and Japan. I skied and raced in allthose great countries. And my dad was alwaysthere for me. Even at my last race, the Olympicdownhill in Nagano, Japan, he was therewatching.During your racing career did you meet

any dignitaries, get the keys to any cities?(Laughing) I have the key to the

city of Palmer, Alaska, and Anchorage gaveme a key, too. In Europe I met Franz Klammer

and Jean Claude Killy in Val d’Isère, France.That was pretty cool. They were legends, pio-neer skiers. I met Alberto Tomba. And HillaryClinton showed up for the Olympic downhill inLillehammer, Norway. I high-fived her andChelsea back in ’94.How did freeskiing lead you to racing?We had a little rat pack, a ski club that met

every Saturday. Sometimes we’d run gatesand sometimes we’d freeski. We had onejump, The Big Drift – like a downhill run goinginto it, then hit the compression and get sentright to the moon off the thing. And we skiedtight trees, little couloirs, open bowls. Back inthe ‘80s that was all that was going on really,freeskiing on narrow skis.Where does the passion for skiing take

you these days?I like hiking the Pass. I live in Wilson, I can

see out my window when it’s good. I’ll get mybinoculars, look up on the Pass and Teton Vil-lage. If it looks good, I’ll run out the door andhead out for a few runs. I love cold winter dayswhen the snow is good and you’re just outfreesking with your buddies! My two daugh-ters, Taylor and Taryn, are skiing now. It’s ablast, showing them how to ski. I feel lucky tolive in such a great place with the outdoorsright at your fingertips. — Jackson Hole Skier

Tommy MoeOlympian and ski ambassador tells tales of racing and powder skiing

From his garage in Wilson, Wyoming, Tommy Moe recollects his Olympic Gold downhill run in Lillehammer, Norway (right) and other career highlights. “My dadwas always there for me,” said Moe. “Even at my last, the Olympic downhill in Nagano, Japan, he was there watching.”

“We had one jump, The Big Drift– like a downhill run going intoit, then hit the compression andget sent right to the moon offthe thing. And we skied tighttrees, little couloirs, open bowls.Back in the ‘80s that was all thatwas going on really, freeskiingon narrow skis.”

— Tommy Moe

KEEPERSOFTHEFLAME

Jonathan

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For almost two decades magazines havepublished Selkowitz’s pictures of Bode Miller,Lindsey Vonn, and a host of World Cup win-ners. His March 2012 Powder magazine coverof Mikaela Shiffrin broke two precedents: thecover athlete is almost always male and is al-most never ski racing.From 2000 to 2007 Selkowitz traveled 270

days-a-year to follow ski team events in alpine,freestyle, Nordic, and adaptive-team disci-plines. He shot three Olympics – 1998 Nagano,Japan; 2002 Salt Lake City, Utah; and 2006Torino, Italy – intermittently working for theDuomo and Newsport photo agencies, theU.S. Ski Team, Ski Racing magazine, as wellas other publications and commercial clients.“The ’98 Olympics was a key job for me,”

Selkowitz said of his Duomo assignment. “TheU.S. ski team started taking me more seriously– I wasn’t just the pressroom maraudingdonut-and-coffee poacher in Japan. A yearlater the ski team asked me to shoot the U.S.Nationals in Jackson and began working withme more.”The award is not lightly bestowed.

Selkowitz said he was honored to be in thecompany of Bob Beatty, Joe Jay Jalbert, andski-team writer Paul Robbins, who became

one of his mentors.“Paul Robbins was a walking encyclopedia

of U.S. Ski Team history,” said Selkowitz, not-ing that Robbins had in fact once come to hisrescue.“I showed up to shoot the Lake Louise

World Cup, my credit cards maxed, and noplace to stay. The hotel had lost my reserva-tion! Paul had them put a cot in the corner ofhis tiny room and was happy to have me joinhim. We were good friends ever since.”Selkowitz himself grew up ski racing, and

later became a race coach and a ski instruc-tor. He parlayed a basic photography class intoa four-year stint working for Jackson photog-rapher David Swift.“I thought I was going to be a fashion pho-

tographer,” he said. “I enjoyed working withmodels. I didn’t think I’d be in the ski business.”But when the World Cup came to Park City,

like any ski-racer-turned photographer, hewent to shoot it. With no press pass, shootingfrom outside the fencing, he spotted an ac-quaintance on the course.

“My college Spanish tutor was makingphotos for Ski Racing magazine,” he said.

“She coaxed me under the fence, told me tostand next to her, and gave me a glimpse ofthe excitement. She even critiqued my film,which also was very helpful.”Helpful indeed. “I got so excited at being so

close to the action that for the next three yearsI went to all of the World Cups in the neigh-borhood – Aspen, Vail, Park City,” he noted,adding, “I slept in my car a lot.”He garnered early press credentials with a

letter of assignment from the Jackson HoleNews. “They were very kind,” he said. “Theydidn’t need the pictures, but that got me on thehill, got me the ticket to hang out with the otherphotographers. I learned about the photo bizlistening to the other photographers, and theywere interested in my point of view from myski-racing background.”Selkowitz continues to photograph some

World Cup racing and training, although re-cently he has been sticking closer to his homein Victor, Idaho, to focus on crafting images offreeriding, lifestyle, and scenic abstracts. Andsomehow he manages to ski almost every day,either in the backcountry, the resorts, or theNordic centers. — Jackson Hole Skier

Jonathan Selkowitz

“The ’98 Olympicswas a key job forme, the U.S. skiteam started takingme more seriously– I wasn’t justthe pressroommarauding donut-and-coffeepoacher in Japan.”

— Jonathan Selkowitz

Jonathan SelkowitzFIS Journalist Of The Year

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Jackson Hole photographerJonathan Selkowitz was namedJournalist of the Year for 2012 by theFederation of International Skiing(FIS). Selkowitz picked up the trophyin Beaver Creek, Colorado, duringthe 2012 Birds of Prey World Cup.

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ighty-three-year-old Gene Palmer remembers

Fred’s Mountain before it became Grand Targhee,

when its main winter visitors were snowshoe hares

and the occasional cross-country skier, and its

summer visitors numbered only Fred and the sheep

he herded. A lifelong skier and racer from nearby

Rexburg, Idaho, Palmer had settled back onto the

family farm after two years military service in Europe

– where he also skied – and an eight-year stint

teaching math, chemistry, and physics at Madison

High School in his home town.

Rexburg ski racer Gene Palmerhelped pioneer this west-side

Teton powder stash

GRAND TARGHEEMOUNTAIN RESORT

E

Gene Palmer, 1972

Gene Palmer, 2013 – no stranger to magazines fea-turing him, holds a 2009 story in Teton Valley.

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“Then along came this opportunity,” saidPalmer. “In the late Sixties some friendscame to me, they needed people with knowl-edge about the ski business.”Palmer helped the group raise seed

money for a loan from the Economic Devel-opment Administration to build the ski area.During the three-year pre-construction periodhe served on the board of directors. WhenGrand Targhee opened on Dec. 26, 1969, heresigned from the board to take the helm asthe resort’s first ski school director, a post heheld for the next 25 years.Today he continues to train instructors,

teach skiing, and still skis on his days off. Butafter all those years, one thing still resonates.“It’s the snow,” said Palmer. “I’ve skied all

over the Intermountain West, some in thewestern U.S., and several times in Europe,and I’m always glad to come home. We havethe greatest snow on earth.”Soft snow and lots of it wasn’t always

preferable, though.“In the beginning years we didn’t have

snow cats,” said Palmer. “The first winter wewere open, ‘69/70, we were setting up aslalom course and it started snowing. By thetime we got back to the top, five feet of fresh

snow was on our course. We had some realheavy winters those years. Everybody calledit ‘Cowboy skiin’ ‘cause we didn’t have themachinery to groom it.”The race team did the best they could,

side-stepping the courses and learning torace in soft snow and deep ruts. This knowl-edge helped Palmer’s son Gary win at leastone big ski race.“When my son was in college at BYU, they

won the Collegiate Ski Association NationalChampionships at Waterville Valley, Vermont,because he could ski ruts,” Palmer said. “Hewas the cleanup man and he had to get third

Dorian Densmore skis his native Wyoming’s powder at Grand Targhee.

“It’s the snow. I’ve skied all over the Intermountain West, some in the western U.S., and several timesin Europe, and I’m always glad to come home. We have the greatest snow on earth.”

—Gene Palmer

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34 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2014

for them to win, which he did. They brought himthere because he could ski ruts.”

In Palmer’s lifelong career at Grand Targhee hehas worked for three different owners. “The group ofus that built it went broke in four years,” he said.“We lost our shirts. An Ohio plastics manufacturer,Bill Robinson – he invented resealable plastic cupsand lids – bought it for its debts. They were goodpeople. They tried hard. In ‘69-73 they put theBlackfoot lift in. We kind of limped along and did thebest we could.”That’s a far cry from where Grand Targhee is

today. The modern, complete resort is owned byGeordie Gillett and his father George, who onceowned Vail. They are hands-on and love GrandTarghee.“Geordie Gillett lives in Driggs and is involved

daily,” he said. “They’ve done some great things.The atmosphere is very positive. I’m so happy andfeel so blessed to be able to be here and be a partof this.”

Mountain Characteristics2,000 acres of lift-serviced terrain, 10% beginner,

70% intermediate, 20% advanced. Vertical rise:2,270 feet. Base elevation: 7,860 feet. Groomedtrails: 500 acres. Ski lifts: two high-speed quadchairs, one quad chair, one double chair, and onemagic carpet. Snowcat skiing on Peaked Mountain:600+ acres, 2,000-foot vertical rise. There are 15k ofgroomed Nordic and fat snow bike trails. Stop in atthe Activity Center to book all your adventure: snow-mobile tours, naturalist tours, backcountry tours,sleigh-ride dinners, tubing, early tracks, mountaintours and more.

Access and ResourcesTucked into the western slope of the Tetons in

Alta, Wyoming, Grand Targhee Resort is a powdersanctuary. The resort receives the most snowfall inWyoming, averaging 500” annually, thanks to itshome right up against the high alpine barrier. At thebase of the mountain, a complete array of amentiescomplement Mother Nature’s handiwork: threeslopeside lodges with accommodations to meet anybudget, a dedicated ski shop with the latest gearand demos, a custom boot fitter, a snowboard shop,rental shop, an activity center, four different diningoptions, a general store, and an on-mountain pho-tography service. Nice teamwork, to say the least.

With an annual snowfall average of 500 inches, days like this are pretty common at Grand Targhee.

Steve Baugh Bowl, Grand Targhee backcountry

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Brian Warren’s first message to backcoun-try travelers: know the decision-making as-pect of mountain travel and its true, real-timeconsequences.“In my teaching I always say, ‘We can go

from zero to trouble in a matter of a tram rideor an hour of touring,’” said Warren. Directaccess to big Teton descents “can come witha high cost if a group is not prepared.”He asks his students, “Are we prepared to

go out for two hours? How about eight

hours? Could we deal with an epic if we getlost, have a mechanical failure, or have tonavigate in a whiteout? Do we know wherecell phones work and have emergency phonenumbers?”One newly important consideration comes

from the drastic increase in user numbers. “Inthe busy winter venues of the Tetons, how dowe interact with one another?” asks Warren,and he encourages his clientele to find amentor to help with the answers.Communication within and between

groups is paramount.“I usually learn the most when I ask my

friends how their day went,” he said. “What

BACKCOUNTRY

When skiing the backcountry, being “out there” comes withsome basic responsibilities. Three top local guides weigh in.

Dave Coon knows his way around the Tetons.

Brian Warren

What’s In Your Pack? What’s OnYour Mind?

Brian WarrenWinter Director / Lead Ski GuideJackson Hole Mountain Guides

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decisions are being made at the trailhead? Inthe mountains? At the trailhead at the day’send? Even if it’s a short lap out of the gatesor at Teton Pass, it still deserves a debrief.All it takes is simple communication over theentire day to keep everybody safe and com-fortable.”And, of course, backcountry travelers

should carry the right tools to assist in theevent of an accident. Many people don’t real-ize how long it takes to organize a winter res-cue, he said.“Certainly long enough for cold injuries to

set in,” said Warren. “We’re always on a fineline, we dance around serious terrain. It canbecome very lively and complicated veryquickly. Avalanches are just part of it. Theconsequences of a sprained ankle or a blownknee in the backcountry can turn a quick lapout of the gates into a full day of evacuation.People fixate on snow stability, but whatabout just moving through the mountainswith your friends?”

What’s in Brian’s pack?An appropriate winter travel kit should be

carried at all times in the backcountry, includ-ing sidecountry routes like Rock Springs andGranite Canyon. Additional tools are appro-priate for specific outings and guiding. Whengoing out the gates and away from the skipatrol’s reach, be prepared, whether thegroup is small or large, or the planned outing

is short or long.• Day Pack – 20-30 liter. Stow snow safety

tools inside.• Snow Safety Tools – Metal shovel, 2+

meter probe, snow saw and, of course, theavalanche beacon you’re wearing.• Ski Straps – Always good to have a few

extra for boot packing or repair.• Skins – for ski touring and moving

around• Extra Layers – Insulated jacket, extra

gloves, extra hat, and possibly extra sun-glasses and goggles• Thermos – Hot liquid for hydration• Food – Enough snacks for the outing

planned and, of course, some extra at alltimes• Sunscreen – Mother always said…• Extra Beacon – Not always needed, but

for larger groups having at least one extra iskey.• Equipment Tools – Leatherman, Binding

Buddy, Edge File, Skin Wax• Repair/First Aid Kit – Basic supplies for

injuries as well as binding or pole repair parts• Cell Phone – Fully charged phone and

protective case• Navigation Tools – Topo map, compass,

GPS and an inclinometer• Headlamp – Enough said…• Notebook – Phone numbers and con-

tacts for emergencies, also good to recordsnow and weather observations.

The dawn patrol hikes up a backcountry run in the dark using headlamps to light the way.

An appropriate winter travel kit should becarried at all times in the backcountry, in-cluding sidecountry routes like RockSprings and Granite Canyon. Additionaltools are appropriate for specific outingsand guiding. When going out the gates andaway from the ski patrol’s reach, be pre-pared, whether the group is small or large,or the planned outing is short or long.

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When we head out we have Plan A, PlanB, and Plan C. Every time we go skiing, evenwhen not guiding, we have multiple plans.Each includes, but is not limited to, factorsof snow stability, snow conditions, theweather, and the group’s ability level andphysical condition.Using snow-pack stability forecasts and

weather forecasts, we go into the field with ahypothesis – what we expect to find. Thenwe look for concrete evidence to support, orrefute, our hypothesis. We constantly thinkabout the snow and weather. Which way isthe wind blowing? How much snow is beingtransported? How much snow is falling? Howconditions are, or are not, changing. Whichultimately gets you back to Plan A, Plan B,and Plan C.

What’s in Jeff ’s and Diane’s packs?Please keep in mind, we don’t guide in the

frontcountry or sidecountry. Our yurts arekind of “out there.” Our day tours are pretty“out there,” too. Skiing into Mail Cabin,climbing Mt. Taylor, dropping into TurkeyChute off 25 Short. We don’t have the con-venience of ski patrol, other skiers, or otherguides nearby.In addition to the more obvious backcoun-

try items – shovel, probe, transceiver (on your

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Jackson Hole Mountain Resort is knownfor high-alpine steeps, long runs, and anopen-gate policy that allows skiers andsnowboarders easy access to the side-coun-try. It’s literally right in front of your ski tips.But that short step out of bounds puts you inthe untamed Tetons – no ski patrol assis-tance, no marked runs, and no avalanchemitigation to the slopes.Inherent dangers lurk in this wild moun-

tain environment. “Whiteouts” can bewilderand trick skiers into the wrong drainage.“Sucker tracks” made by savvy locals insteep cliff areas and couloirs may be path-ways to danger for unwary tourists who fol-low them. “Double-exposure” happens whenmore than one party skis the same drainageat the same time.To learn the proper mindset – how to think

about avalanche conditions and snow-packmechanics, how to mitigate risk by usingproper terrain evaluation and ski techniques,how to share the slopes safely – hire a guide.Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Alpine Guidesare one of the oldest ski guide services in theU.S. and boast a world-class roster. Theyknow where to uncover the hidden powderstashes and how to enjoy a safe, fun day inthe mountains.Some important points for all backcountry

travelers to consider:• Think with your head, not with your ego.• Don’t use a hit-list for the backcountry. Gowith the safest option for the day. Every dayis different for avalanche conditions: aspect,wind, new snow, etc.• Have the right gear and know how to use

it. Beacon, probe poles, and shovel. Makesure to turn your beacon ON and test it withyour buddy.• Ski with a partner and let someone elseknow where you are touring.• Beware of sucker tracks.• When you are on a big slope, before youmake your first turn have an exit plan in caseit slides. Look for an island of safety any-where you have to stop.• Be courteous by not skiing down on top ofother parties.

What’s in Dave’s pack?Cell PhoneProbe and shovelExtra warm clothingWater and foodFirst aid kit, lighter or matchesSpace blanket and bivy sack

Dave Miller

Jeff Jung

Dave Miller lays down the season’s first tracks in Cody Bowl on the unusually late date of February 3,2012, a low-snowfall year. His run was high-speed run and light footed. “I wanted out of there,” he saidfrom a safe zone at the bottom. Within an hour the bowl was tracked from wall to wall by eager snowrid-ers who’d been eyeing it warily for over a month. It remained stable for most of the rest of the season.

Dave MillerSupervisor / Lead Guide

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Alpine Guides

Diane Verna and Jeff JungCo-owners / Lead GuidesTeton Backcountry Guides

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Ski mountaineer Kit DesLauriers added “solo” to her resume lastJune, when she climbed and skied Wyoming’s two tallest moun-tains, the Grand Teton and Gannet Peak – alone.A champion freeskier and the first person to ski the Seven Sum-

mits, DesLauriers has learned to be comfortable in extreme situa-tions. She’s no stranger on the Grand either, racking up a half-dozenski descents and once leading the complete climb. Even so, she’dbeen prepared to turn back at the bottom of the Stettner Couloir ifshe “didn’t have the huevos to go solo.”“When I got to the Stettner and looked up,” she said, “I’m like,

‘Oh yeah, been here, done this five times before. Never had a prob-lem. Always had a rope, but I don’t need a rope.’ And I just startedclimbing up.”Not that she plans on making it a habit.“The ‘solo’ thing doesn’t feel like a trend or have a specific pur-

pose; it was just a cool experience in the moment,” she said.“Climbing the Stettner was awesome. The snow was nice and hard.In the Ford (Couloir) I was punching through, but it was frozenenough. And the ski down was absolutely bullet-proof.”After reaching the summit and skiing corn snow on the upper

East Face in the early-morning sunshine, DesLauriers side-slippedinto the shaded Ford Couloir.“I like firm, technical skiing, but when I slipped into the Ford and

made a couple turns, I went, ‘Damn.’ It was rock hard – icy, icy, icy.Skis not making a mark. Wow! I’m just hanging on with this little bit ofan edge. It was spicy.”It’s a conundrum. To wait for the sun to shine into the Ford and

soften the snow can increase the exposureto rock-fall lower down.“The heat on the upper mountain creates

potential for spontaneous snow-, rock-, andice-fall down the Chevy and Stettnercouloirs,” said DesLauriers. “Because I wasalone and I wasn’t worried about making amistake with my skiing, I skied earlier thanusual to avoid getting hit by a piece of fallingice. You could really get screwed up if you’realone and you have that problem.”The Teepee Glacier was also a hazard –

the snow hadn’t frozen at that elevation –and small wet-slides chased DesLauriersdown to The Meadows.“I texted Rob at the summit and at the

bottom of Stettner” said DesLauriers, and let him know that she’d behome in time to pick up their kids from school.A week later Kit DesLauriers drove to Pinedale for a 50-hour solo

attempt on Gannett Peak, Wyoming’s tallest (13,804 feet), and re-motely tucked away 20 miles into the Wind River Range. She left theElkhart Park Trailhead at 4:30 p.m., hiked on wet dirt, and post-holedthrough patches of snow to her first bivouac.Next morning she undertook an arduous trek into Titcomb Basin

that included a passel of river crossings in the raging spring runoff. Forher second bivouac in the high-altitude frozen world on Titcomb Lake,DesLauriers found a tiny oasis of grass and open water at the lake’sedge. A big mountain and Bonney Pass still hid any view of Gannet’smassive overhanging snow face and waiting thousand-foot cliff. Whileat her high camp, trying to keep the cold and wind at bay, DesLauriersread a book and planned the details of summit day.

Her 3:30 a.m. start initially pushed some warmth into her body, andwhen the sun finally reached her on the route up the Gooseneck Gla-cier, she thought, “Yes! I’ve been freezing for so long, it feels great toknow I’ll be in the sun for the next twelve hours.”

Then she heard the telltale crunching offootfalls through snow and saw two guysclimbing up the ridge.“They got up to me and started signing,”

she said. “Two deaf, mute men climbing Gan-net on June 15. It was a heart-opening expe-rience. Quite surprising and deeply,personally meaningful.“Still wanting to be alone, I took off,

reached the summit, and got my skis all readyto go. The guys showed up, and again wehad a good interaction. They took pictures ofme and I skied off. I never saw them again. Inever even learned their names!“Skiing Bonnie Pass was some of the best

corn turns I’ve ever made. It’s a decent pitch,probably 35 degrees. The snow was pristine – no runnels, no other skitracks, and few rocks had fallen to mar the surface. Below the pass,where it turns low angle for a couple miles, I had this sensation: This iswhat’s going to carry me for the next five months. This is it, right now.It felt so good. Looking around, so beautiful.”DesLauriers reached her bivouac and decided to push all the way

home that same day.“I started walking at noon and got to the truck at 10 at night,” she

said. “I went out 20 miles, with the 50 or so on-off of the skis and dan-gerous creek crossings. The last 45 minutes was in total darkness. All Icould think of was bears.“The last few hours on the melted-out trail, I thought, ‘That wilder-

ness experience was super cool.’”— Jackson Hole Skier

Kit DesLauriers, self-portrait on Grand Teton summit

1st Female SoloSki Descents

KIT DESLAURIES

“Because I was alone and Iwasn’t worried about makinga mistake with my skiing, Iskied earlier than usual toavoid getting hit by a piece offalling ice. You could reallyget screwed up if you’re aloneand you have that problem.”

KitDesLa

uriers

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Kim Havell has plenty of skis in her shed for whatever conditions the weather might conjure up.

1st Female Ski Descent,Grand Teton’s Otter Body

KIM HAVELL

RRecent Jackson transplant Kim Havell wasted no time putting herstamp on the Tetons last ski season, racking up over 40 ski-moun-taineering routes, including the first-female descent of the Grand’sOtter Body.“The way things lined up, the Otter Body was the most likely next

route to ski,” said the pro skier, who moved to Jackson from Telluride inthe spring of 2012. “We had our eyes on it every time we went up high.”Havell and ski partners Brian Warren and Pete Gaston eyed a

March date. But as a weather window appeared, she learned that Je-remy Jones and his Higher film crew were planning to snowboard theOtter Body on the same day. Her team post-poned their attempt, then were denied byweather throughout April’s showers. Theywere ready, though, when the route finallycame back into condition on May 15.The trio climbed the Otter Body and

reached the summit of the Grand Teton at 7a.m. They waited briefly for the snow tosoften, then elected to begin the descent ofthe East Face on hard-pack.“It’s a fine line in decision making, be-

cause it starts to heat so fast,” said Havell.“Once we got even with the Ford Couloir, we waited another fifteenminutes, then had great corn turns down to the first rappel onto theOtter Body.”Temperatures began to rise quickly and the trio sped down the first

rappel onto the Otter Body and quickly coiled the ropes. The skiingwas soft, but perfect – nothing sketchy, yet.The next transition, however, got a little dicey.“The snow became firm again and we had to be really careful getting

into position for the next series of rappels,” said Havell. “It rolls oversteeply, is quite exposed, and you have to ski right to the anchor point.”These are the moments when mountaineers must have their sys-

tems dialed – taking skis on and off their packs, clipping into anchors,placing protection – the right stuff built from ample time in the field.“There’s no room for error,” said Havell. “You have to be very careful

with your switch-overs, and it’s very awkward.”The team hoped the second rappel would be easier, so they didn’t

don crampons.“Crampons would have been awkward in a different way,” she said.

“But I led a 60-meter traverse on pure ice. If I had lost my footing andswung all the way across the rock, I would’ve shock-loaded the an-chor. It was an ugly scene, definitely hard.”

The difficulties stayed with the trio even to thelast rappel.“The last anchor station was terrible,” she

said. “We put in what protection we could, butstill, it was not awesome. We got out of there asquickly as possible.”After the final rappel onto Teepee Glacier the

team coiled the ropes and hastily skied awayfrom the wall.“You’re off the climb, but you’re still exposed,”

said Havell. “The whole East Face is hangingabove you and it could shed as the temperatures

warm.”And that’s a day in the life of a ski mountaineer. So what’s next?“I have some big thoughts,” Havell said, laughing. “Last winter I got

familiar with the terrain, mapped it out, laid the groundwork for moreexploratory skiing. There’re a lot of things I’d like to get done, bigroutes that are established and some new things, too. They’re not fea-sible, though, unless conditions are really good and the weather coop-erates.”Check out their film on the descent at http://www.jhskier.net, search

Kim Havell.— Jackson Hole Skier

“Once we got even withthe Ford Couloir, we waitedanother fifteen minutes,then had great corn turnsdown to the first rappelonto the Otter Body.”

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he tale is tried and true. Whether it wasLassie and Timmy, Dorothy and Toto,Travis and Old Yeller, Duncan and Rin TinTin, or Buck and John Thornton, dog hasalways been man’s best friend.

But 12 Totos pulling Dorothy, Tin Man,Lion, and Scarecrow down the Yellow BrickRoad? Not in Dorothy’s wildest dreams!

Well, what if Dorothy had found herselftrudging down a trail deep in the Yukon?Maybe then she might have swapped theruby red pumps for a dog sled and her pre-cious Toto for a team of Alaskan huskies topull her home.

Dog sledding combines that primal rela-tionship of man and his loyal canine withthe rush of whisking through snow-coveredcountry and disappearing into the wild. It’sthe Jack London storybook experience.

Imagine a day where a foot of un-

touched powder settles over the JacksonHole Valley. You leave your skis at homeand, bundled in layer upon layer with athermos of hot chocolate in hand, you taketo the trail with a local musher.

“Mush! Hike! All Right! Let’s Go!” themusher calls out to his team. The dogs ex-plode into motion, and off you go, dog andman, on a picturesque journey acrossfrozen rivers, snow-blanketed valleys,dense forest, and rugged mountains.

For you this is a one-day adventure. Forthe musher, though, it’s a lifestyle.

Just ask Jackson Hole’s eight-time Idi-tarod veteran Frank Teasley. It was the ro-mantic allure that initially grabbed him andpulled him into the dog-sledding lifestyle.But now it’s the rewarding relationship be-tween a musher and his dogs – and thecommitment to those dogs – that keeps

By Sandra Keats

MUSH!HIKE!LET’SGO!

Dog sledding combines thatprimal relationship of man andhis loyal canine with the rush ofwhisking through snow-coveredcountry and disappearinginto the wild.

It’s the Jack London storybookexperience.

T

“Mush! Hike! All Right! Let’s Go!” the musher calls out to his team.

On the trail the dogs are silent as they go about their work.

A dog’s-eye view

Sled dog tours,a storybookexperience

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H2O GuidesChugach Range, Valdez, Alaska

Operational and Terrain Overviews: Thelongest continuously operating Alaska helicopterskiing outfit, H2O Guides was founded by DeanCummings, who pioneered remote heli-ski guid-ing in the Chugach Range starting in 1991. Itopened the Alaska experience to skiers of allabilities. The enterprise’s research, develop-ment, and common bonds shared with guestsallows access to 19 interconnected regions,each Teton Range-sized and within the most im-pressive snow-belt on earth. Two daily flightsserve Valdez. Clients can avail themselves of in-clusive packages, four exclusive groups weekly,and some of the smoothest, steepest, most ex-pansive heli-ski terrain available.Mornings start early with a hot continental

breakfast. The daily logistics display board de-tails planned flight operations based on weatherand groups. Skiers keep their pack and gear or-ganized and close by, and stay ready to launchto the field.

From nine strategic staging areas, the com-pany’s three A-Star B2 helicopters whisk wait-ing clients to remote areas in the pristineChugach Range. The terrain offers some ofAlaska’s deepest snowpack, one of the highestconcentrations of glaciers in the world, andsupreme vistas of Prince William Sound, whereskiers can carve out the runs of a lifetime.H2O Guides is the sole licensed heli-ski op-

erator for 225,280 acres of core Chugach ter-rain and has access to 2.6 million acres in all.The permits were earned through a competitiveprocess based on H20’s proven experience, ex-cellent safety record, and ultimate respect forwildlife habitat and the environment. With hun-dreds of established landing zones, and a focuson big-mountain safety protocols and group-team emphasis, there is no better way to ac-cess the goods!

Testimonials: "Every run was the best run ofmy life! Seriously, the most thrilling trip I've everbeen on. I couldn't have dreamt up some of thestuff we skied and I didn't know powder could

get even better than it already is."– Nicole Baran"I compare it to how the kids felt when they

got the golden tickets to Willy Wonka's Choco-late Factory. Skiing in Alaska is like a made-upski world." – Mike & Jaime Robertson"We had a fantastic trip and your company

is by far the best heli experience in the world.Your family is amazing, and you (Karen) andDean made us feel like we were part of it. Kindregards." – Abdi Mirashrafi

Contact Info & Social Media:ALASKAHELICOPTERSKIING.COM; 907-835-8418; h2ooutdoorgear.com; [email protected]; Twitter: @h2oguides; facebook.com/H2OGuides

Season: 03/01/14 - 04/26/14

Years in Operation: 20

Down Day Activities: Ice climbing, ThompsonPass road runs (powder skiing on non-flyabledays), backcountry touring, glacier trekking,cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, sea kayak-

www. focusproduc t i ons . com54 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2014

The lift is half the fun when it comes to helicopter skiing. Just another legendary Alaska snowstorm.

EricLayton,H

2Ophoto

Photo

courtesyH2O

ChrisWild

e,VHSGphoto

Dean Cummings skis The Hourglass.

Page 56: Jackson Hole Skier Magazine 2014

“I had never skied the fin before. I had always looked over at itfrom the regular entrance to Once Is Enough, but I always justskied the gut of the couloir. This time I was headed for the fin.Hiking gives you time to think about the line, time to think of thegreat and horrible things that could happen. I try to just focus onrelaxing so that I can actually make decisions. At the top every-thing looked great, I was so focused on where I was going to skithat I forgot to put on the head-cam and film it. Milliseconds afterthis shot, the fin fractured and I had to ski very fast out of thereahead of the slough. When I got to the bottom I never cheered soloud in my life.”

— Tanner Flanagan

“I first met Tanner early one frigid morning on a Jackson crossstreet. My car had died, and as motorists maneuvered their rigsaround me Tanner parked his car and helped me push minethrough the intersection and out of the way. As a way of thankinghim, I offered to take him up an early Tram one powder morning. Ihad no idea that he was a complete maniac. This shot is from thatday. Tanner is dropping in the right side of 'Once is Enough' inless than ideal conditions and making it look sexy. This frameshows Tanner in soft snow opening up the throttle, but the turnsabove this section were on firm snow with shallow coverage.Extra spicy!”

— Chris Figenshau

Chris Figenshau

Tanner Flanagan

A RUN WITHPhotographer Chris Figenshau

Skier Tanner Flanagan

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Tanner Flanagan, the fin line in Once Is Enough; photo by Chris Figenshau

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“I hadn’t skied in Jackson Hole since my ski racing dayswhen I was a teen, so I was overly excited to come visit and skithe impressive terrain the Tetons have to offer. A storm had hit,and wanting to squeeze every last ounce out of a great day ofbluebird pow skiing, our group figured it’d be a treat to finish theday off with a sunset-mission lap on the Pass. My first time ski-ing the Pass fell nothing short of marvelous – great views, goodskiing, fun crew, and tasty beers with high fives back at thetrucks all combined for one heck of a finish to the day.”

— Elyse Saugstad

“I love skiing Teton Pass more than about any other place in theTetons, even though it’s become increasingly crowded over the years.This shot came at the end of a long and amazing day of skiing powder atTeton Village; one of those epic, bluebird, deep-pow days that really onlyhappen a few times a year. I knew that we’d still find good snow on thePass for one last sunset session. We left the village, raced up the bootpack, and snagged these turns and shot just as the sun was setting. Itwas the perfect ending to an incredible day of skiing.”

— Mark Fisher

A RUN WITHPhotographer Mark Fisher

Skier Elyse Saugstad

Mark Fisher

Elyse Saugstad

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Elyse Saugstad on Teton Pass; photo by Mark Fisher

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“This is a funny image to me in so manyways. I’d always wanted to shoot a park POVlike this because I’d never seen anything like itbefore (this was pre-GoPro of course, nowshots like this are easy). Jackson was neverexactly the place to shoot good park photos,though. Then in 2008, Christian Pondella wonPowder’s Photo of the Year with a similarphoto of Chris Benchetler at Mammoth. Afterthat I sort of lost interest. But in 2010 JHMRfinally built a decent terrain park and super-talented Aussie skier Watkin McLennan wasin town, so this is one of the better shots froma few laps on Eagle’s Rest.”

— Tristan Greszko

“Ski photography has always beena team sport. The photographer andskier must collaborate to catch themoment just right. Tristan had just got-ten a new toy, a remote for his camera.His idea was for me to hold the cam-era whilst he pressed the button re-motely. Perhaps this is the ultimate“selfie,” or maybe just a self portrait ofTristan (that’s him down below in thepicture). Regardless, it is a novel takeon a park shot and it was a whole lotof fun taking it with him. Ultimate teamwork.”

— Watkin McLennan

A RUN WITHPhotographerTristan Greszko

Skier Watkin McLennan

Watkin McLennan

Tristan Greszko

Watkin McLennan (close), and Tristan Greszko (far), JHMR terrain park; photo by Tristan Greszko

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A RUN WITHPhotographerBob Woodall

Skier Chris Newson

“From my first winter in Jackson Hole I became almostobsessed with pockets of sparkling snow just to the southof Thunder Chair. Add the tram and the sun and the pic-ture is perfect. Chris and I spied several rather obscure lit-tle patches. They take a little maneuvering to get into, asthey were not natural lines. That is why they were still un-tracked in the late morning. Timing is important when youwant the tram in a shot. Cue the skier too early or too late,you miss it. I have spent lots of time over the years waitingfor the tram and I don’t mean in the tram line. So we ma-neuvered into the spot, there’s the tram, cue the skier.Bingo. We got a beautiful shot with the sun and a niceshadow. I love shadows in photos. They add a third di-mension to the shot.”

— Bob Woodall

“Bob and I had been out all morningshooting. The mountain was pretty welltracked out. When we got on Thunderwe saw some untouched spots onTram Line. Bob was looking for whathe calls a ‘resort shot.’ One with anangle that would capture the untrackedsnow with the tram in the back. Weget to the spot and talk on the radio. Itis not always east to understand ex-actly what he sees and where he wantsme to be in the shot. Timing is key, aswe only get one chance at it. The tramis there. Three, two, one, and I go.”

– Chris Newson

Chris Newson

Bob Woodall

Chris Newson, Lower Faces, Jackson Hole Moutain Resort; photo by Bob Woodall

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“Skiing the Apocalypse that day was sort of a last-minute idea. Itwas a beautiful morning, but as we climbed, the weather closed inand by the time we rigged the ropes for the first of two rappels, itwas feeling pretty ominous. There's a cave at the transition from rap-pelling to skiing where you put your skis on. You literally ski out ofthis cave into 2,000 vertical feet of exposed, steep skiing. Once wedropped in, it was perfect. The wind and blowing snow and blue ice-falls glowing through the gloom combined to create a surreal skiingexperience that felt completely appropriate for the line. After the finalrappel off of a V-thread in the ice, it was simply beautiful couloir ski-ing onto the apron, and we hit the cars just as it got completely dark.A classic GTNP day!”

— Drew Pogge

A RUN WITHPhotographer David Stubbs

Skier Drew Pogge

David Stubbs

Drew Pogge

“The Apocalypse is a beautiful, dangerous place. It has fairytale lines andblue ice. It has 50-degree roll overs, variable, no-fall zones – change yourwhole perspective kind of beauty. An avalanche had flushed out the snowthe day before, so we were hoping for a smooth, chalky bed surface withsome pockets of soft. I was getting to know Drew Pogge as we slogged upthe flank of the couloir. He was in town to write a story and I was shooting itfor Exum. Following a rappel into the fog, we traveled very carefully and de-liberately down, and I managed to shoot a few pictures off my chest, quickly.Drew skied it flawlessly. Sweet relief was what I was thinking, watching Drewslide out safely. The Apocalypse is a risky place with incredible allure. OnMarch 1, 2013, an avalanche took Jarad Spackman's life in the couloir, mo-ments after he had exclaimed to his partner how beautiful it was.”

— David Stubbs

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Drew Pogge, Apocalypse, Grand Teton National Park; photo by David Stubbs

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Jeff Leger

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“You’d never find yourself on top of this cliff by accident. It’san obscure spot at the end of a large cliff band with no good ac-cess from above. I threw in a boot pack and made my way to thetop. Once there I tried to keep my heart rate down as I plottedthe take off, trajectory, and landing procedures. The low-angleslope above the cliff required me to stomp out a small launchingpad. This preparation gave me time to contemplate. Time to getstoked and time to be scared. Time to second guess and reeval-uate. To energize and motivate. With my plan set, I shouted toWade and headed for the edge. Once in space, I tried to get asbig as I can to fully enjoy my time in orbit. With a soft landing anda hoot from McKoy, I knew we were in for a special day. Smiling, Ithrew my skis over my shoulder and headed back up to scopeout the next huck.”

— Jeff Leger

“I’ve witnessed and documented many of Jeff Leger’s leaps. For this shot Iclimbed onto the rock to get the most dramatic perspective of the cliff loomingover the viewer. I also wanted to get off the snow slope just in case it slid.Standing on a solid ledge, one hand-hold on rock, the other on my camera, Ipracticed panning through the flight. framing and reframing. I watched a flock ofjuncos flutter in and perch on the cliff. I listened to their birdsong, to the rustlingbreezes, to the silence. We were ready. I heard, ‘Dropping in 10 seconds!’ Then Iheard Leger’s flight cut through the silence like a chainsaw as my motor-driveclicked the shutter at 8-frames-per second.”

— Wade McKoy

Wade McKoy

Jeff Leger, Little Fat Bastard, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort backcountry; photo by Wade McKoy

A RUN WITHPhotographer Wade McKoy

Skier Jeff Leger

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A RUN WITHPhotographer Gabe Rogel

Skier Mike Leake

“Skiing in the Tetons and at Jackson Hole is not al-ways about perfectly fresh pow runs, though those daysare nice. Sometimes it’s about the hunt for good snowwhen most of the resort or sidecountry is skied-out. Andwhen you find the right places to look, the reward surecan be deep. One of the best things about Jackson Holeis that it is full of these stashes.”

— Mike Leake

“I shot this photo of Mike Leake with a Canon 1D MarkIII (f2.8 and 1/8000 sec) and a Canon 15mm Fisheye lensat Jackson Hole. We caught an early tram that morning,but it looks like we were lucky to find a powder stash laterin the day for this photo. I dig the speed and emotion cap-tured here. With the super wide angle lens and close prox-imity to Mike, you can almost sense Mike’s elation as heblows up the fresh snow.”

— Gabe Rogel

Gabe Rogel Mike Leake

Mike Leake, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort; photo by Gabe Rogel

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“It was a most memorable day. Aside fromthe sweet powder, setting full moon, and sun-rise light, Brady introduced me to a couplenew lines, as he continues to do ever since Iintroduced him to skiing the Pass a coupledecades ago.”

— Jonathan Selkowitz

A RUN WITHPhotographerJonathan Selkowitz

Skier Brady Johnsonand his dog Timber

“This was one of those magical springdays in the Tetons. Who would’ve thoughtyou could find six inches of feather-light, or-thographic fluff on top of a carve-able suncrust, groomer smooth from weeks of high-pressure freeze/thaw. I think only a formerski racer, his coach, and a four-legged com-panion could really appreciate the uniquecombination of conditions that day. Not tomention, I might have mowed my lawn thatafternoon. It was definitely, ‘woof-tastic!’”

— Brady JohnstonBrady Johnson and Timber

Jonathan Selkowitz

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Brady Johnson and Timber, Teton Pass; photo by Jonathan Selkowitz

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“This particular image was shot in a seldom-ridden area ofthe Jackson Hole backcountry that many people pass on aregular basis. I felt that the wind and snow moving up theslope would create a visually compelling image and Rob King-will agreed to attempt it. After last year’s less-than-ideal snowyear you really have to look at terrain differently and try to mixit up in order to create some fresh work. After “Kinger”dropped in and started his first turn, I knew we had somethinggoing. The slough he created was barreling him until he wentfor the air. The snow lifted into the air to create a natural filterover the sun and highlight Mother Nature’s delicate touch.Rob did the rest and we nailed a nice shot by thinking beyondthe traditional point of view.”

— Greg Von Doersten

A RUN WITHPhotographerGreg Von Doersten

Snowboarder Rob Kingwill

“This was one of those days where everything camecame together like it is supposed to. The snow wasgood, the sun was out and I was with two of my goodfriends, GVD and Darrell Miller on Cody Peak doing whatI love to do, slash powder and jump cliffs. On this line,the wind came up out of nowhere right as I was ap-proaching the cliff. I was so completely blinded by snowthat I had to guess when I should ‘Ollie’ the rocks at theedge. I had scoped the line well enough before I droppedin, so I knew I’d eventually find a clean landing. Thisimage captures the moment of revelation, when I cameout of that giant cloud of snow and could finally seeagain. Yeehaw!”

— Rob Kingwill

Greg Von Doersten

Rob Kingwill

PortraitPhoto

byAngelRodri

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Rob Kingwill, Cody Peak, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, photo by Greg Von Doersten

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Anna ColeCommunications ManagerJackson Hole Mountain ResortJackson Hole skier 10 years

First JH winter memory — “Somuch snow, over 400 inches.Such a big mountain. So manygreat people. Some things don’tchange.”Why bike in winter? — “I lovebiking, the feel of a bike, the wayit stretches and loosens my legsand back, the strength it pro-vides. Nothing is better than thepath in front of you and a beer atthe end. Let’s ride!”

Being a passionate, accomplished skier & ‘boarder is a prerequisite forsome resort-town jobs. For others, it’s the end to the means.

SKI TOWN JOBS

First JH winter memory — “Buying myfirst pair of powder skis, some usedSeth Pistols. Looking back on it, theywere in bad shape with crappy bindings,but I loved those skis, and skied themuntil they were noodles.”Insider’s tips — “For the best lift-ticketprice go to jacksonhole.com and buyyour RFID J Card online. Reload it on-line, too. No more ticket-window line!“Make a reservation at the Couloir forlunch for a relaxing break – you have tomake a reservation, though, to avoidwaiting for a table.“Ski the Hobacks from top to bottom,non-stop – it’ll make you appreciate thesize of this mountain.”

Steve MartinSki Instructor 30 yearsJackson Hole skier 32 years

Photos by Wade McKoy

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Mike WebbHousepainter (summer)Jackson Hole Ski Patrol (winter)Jackson Hole skier 21 years

First JH winter memory — “Thehigh quality of local skiers, howfast the tram could take you up4,139 vertical, and how broke Iwas.”Insider’s tip — “Drink lots ofwater, look out for moose in theroad, and don’t bother skiingGranite Canyon, because the ski-ing back there isn’t very good.”

Mikey Franco, Mike ParrisSki and Snowboard Makers, IgneousJackson Hole snowboarder 25 years;JH skier 16 years

First JH winter memory — “Before moving here, we came for springbreak. Mott and I hiked up Teton Pass with RG. He was showing us ourfirst little shack up on the Pass. I still remember that moment, surfin’ downto the shack and hanging out.” — Mikey FrancoInsider’s Tip — “Be respectful. In Jackson, you don’t know who thehottest rider is ‘cause they’ll never tell you. We’re all here for the samereason – The Hill. We don’t have that competitive vibe that you get insome other places that have competing mountains.” — Mikey FrancoAbout Igneous — “Igneous Skis are custom designed to address yourriding style, strength, agility, purpose, and goals. This results in optimalperformance, more precise control, increased endurance, and more fun.We make skis to make you a better skier.” — Mike Parris

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SKI TOWN JOBS

Tram Jam, counterclockwise from bottom left: Peter Chandler (guitar, vocals);John Kidwell (trombone, vocals); Andy Peterson (drums, vocals); Jeff Eidemiller(guitar); John Clark (bass); Powell Miller (trumpet)

First JH winter memory — “I came, in 1978/79, thinking Iwas a pretty good skier. Skiing Jackson was a humbling ex-perience, and I soon learned to respect, appreciate, and re-vere the mountain.”Insider’s Tips — “Enjoy the mountain. It’s a lot bigger than itlooks from the parking lot. Take time to ride all the lifts, look atthe terrain, and be amazed at the high level of riding all overthe mountain.”About Tram Jam— “This year the Tram Jam band is cele-brating 20 years of lift-line entertainment. We play at theBridger Gondola every Saturday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Themusic is family friendly and combines cover tunes by BobDylan, Bob Marley, Led Zeppelin, and Elvis Costello, withclassic blues/jazz and mountain-town originals by Chanman.“Tram Jam began as a duo, then became a trio, then a quar-tet (playing original tunes recorded on Waist Deep), and hasnow grown to a six-member band. When the Gondola arrived,Tram Jam moved to its base there.“Skiing at a world-class area like Jackson Hole had been mydream since I was a kid. When the opportunity arose formusic to support my skiing, it was too good to be true. It’sbeen great to see Tram Jam grow along with the resort as itcelebrates the skiing lifestyle through song. We all love play-ing Tram Jam.”

Tram JamPeter Chanman ChandlerMusician, band founderJackson Hole skier 25 years

Dustin VargaJackson Hole snowboarder 24 yearsPro rider from 1992-98Musician, composer

First JH winter memory — “I remem-ber being so excited about riding at theVillage. And making my first real turns inTelemark Bowl. I worked for food serv-ice at the base of the tram. Steak-rideSteve gave me a job, an apartment, anda pass. So awesome.”Insider’s Tip — “Start easy on AprèsVous to get acquainted with the terrain.Study the trail maps. Lend the mountainand the locals the respect they de-serve.”About Dustin’s music — “I’ve beenwriting music most of my life and hadmy first band in ninth grade. From mymusic studio at home I create music foraction sports films, commercials, andmost film applications.”

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Peter StieglerRestaurateur, Stiegler’s Restaurant& Copper Bar; Closet rock-and-rollerJackson Hole skier 37 years,19 years a part-time ski instructorFirst JH winter memory — “It was1976/77. No snow. The ski area didn’topen until January. Thunder lift only.Downloading skiers on the Tram fromTower 3. It closed in March. But it wasstill a great year.”Insider’s Tip — “Experience dinner atStiegler’s, a culinary way of life. The im-portant things in life: skiing, eating,singing, all hopefully together with yourchildren.”

First JH winter memory — “Corn skiing theHobacks. The last couple weeks of the seasonthey used to close the Hobacks and farm ‘emuntil the corn was prime. When the snow wasready, they’d only open them from 9 to 11 a.m.to preserve it. All the ‘boat people’ (B-Passholders who stood in a separate standby-room-only tram line) decided it was as smooth as ababy’s butt.”Insider’s Tips— “Hire someone to show youaround the mountain, a guide to take you outthe gates. Jackson Hole definitely has some ofthe best ski terrain found anywhere, that’s whyI’m here. And for me, the Lower Faces makethis mountain. They are mountains unto them-selves, preserved by the lack of direct lift ac-cess. They are long, consistent, and exciting.You can’t beat the Hobacks on a good-qualitysnow day.“And, if you can afford it and the conditions areright while you’re here, spend a day heli-skiing.You’ll be glad you did.“And remember, enjoy a high-protein dinner toreplenish those spent leg muscles for anotherday of skiing.”

Ned BrownRestaurateur, The Blue LionJackson Hole skier 35 years

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Favorite childhood winter memory —“I remember going up the tram when Iwas five and being way shorter than everybody. I remember skiing the bowlfor the first time, I’d go straight and then crash. The powder was really deepand my parents had to help me up. Another memory I’ll never forget, I was 12.Jonathan Selkowitz, my coach, took us ski-club kids out of bounds, up onCody. I remember watching Tommy Moe go into Once Is Enough, and I waslike, ‘Oh, I want to do that someday.’ For us kids it was the coolest thing. Weskied Four Shadows, but I don’t have any memory of it being steep or scary,just fun. Now I can’t imagine us 12-year-olds not being nervous on that steeprun.”Insider’s Tip — “Get in shape before you come out here, because the runsare long. My ski fitness program is eight weeks long. But if you are alreadyhere, start off easy. Build your legs up on the lower part of the mountain, andwork up. Don’t go straight to the top.”

SKI TOWN JOBS

Favorite childhood winter memory – “Skiing Snow King with two of myfriends Walt Robertson and Ellen Sullivan. Our parents used Snow King asday care. Many afternoons we were the only humans on the hill. I remem-ber loving riding up Exhibition, all three of us on one chair, and then rippingdown thru Pickle. Yep, there’s a run called Pickle and the trees are spacedjust wide enough for little kids’ race skis.”Insider’s Tip — “If you are going to go into the backcountry, hire a guide.”Favorite current memory — “My favorite trip was last spring filmingTicket To Ride, five weeks in Iceland, one of the most incredible, beautiful,amazing countries I’ve ever been to. I’m looking forward to spending moretime at home, working on my life-list of Teton ski descents.”

Jess McMillanJackson Hole skier whole life (valley native)Pro skier, eight years on Freeride circuit, won twice; fourthyear as athlete filming with Warren Miller on exotic locations.

Crystal WrightJackson Hole skier whole life (valley native)Personal Trainer, Owner – Wright Training;Pro freeride skier – 2012, 2009 FreeskiingWorld Tour Champion,2008 U.S. Freeskiing Tour Champion

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First JH winter memory —“I moved here as a typical ski bum, andit was a drought year to beat all droughts – and with no snow-mak-ing. But since it was my first year here, I didn’t care. My best friendsstill are ones I met that year. I worked at the Alpenhof as a mainte-nance man. I traded living in an apartment in town for living in acabin at the White Grass Ranch. We were so poor we would ski infrom White Grass and then ski all day at the Village. Some nights Iwould sleep in maid closets at the Alpenhof. After growing up inSeattle, I was in heaven.”Why I bike — “My passion is cycling. I bike-commute to school (Idon’t ride some days in mid-winter with bad conditions on the high-way and the bridge). Last year I rode 150 of 185 teacher days. Iteach special ed., and at the end of the day I often wonder if Ishould laugh or cry. Cycling clears my brain.”

Walter BerlingSpecial Ed teacher 34 yearsFormer head Nordic coach at Jackson Hole High School 28 yearsJackson Hole skier since 1976

AJ CargillMerchandise Manager & BuyerTeton Village SportsJackson Hole skier 18 years

First JH winter memory —“It dumped everysingle night in December. I kept finding my-self making hot laps on AV with Doug andEmily Coombs. I felt like I’d landed in skiingNirvana. Working on the race crew was ablast and there were so many hot guys every-where I went.”Insider’s Tip — “Hire an instructor or a guideto show you the best lines and how to navi-gate this huge playground in the Tetons. Andknow that this is a friendly place; it’s only asintimidating as you make it.”

Gov CarriganCo-creator and Operations ManagerPepi Stiegler SportsJackson Hole skier 24 years

First JH winter memory — “My first time toCorbet’s. It looked closed, so I went throughthe ropes, just to take a peek. As soon as myskis stopped at the edge, a ski patroller in fulluniform and a strong Scottish accent turnedto me and exclaimed, ‘Well, lad, did youcome here to jump in or are you just going tostand there looking at it?’ It was CallumMackay, of course, and his statement was sostrong and unexpected that I jumped in asfast as I possibly could and promptly blew up.Laughing, he yelled back down the couloir,‘Nice one, lad, see you next time.’”Insider’s Tip — “Ski the whole mountain.Don’t get stuck in one area. Our mountainhas an incredible variety of terrain and condi-tions. Ski a Kastle today and find out for your-self what the buzz is all about.”

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SKI TOWN JOBS

First JH winter memory — “How endless it was. It was 2007/08 and it snowed over 600". It feltlike living in a snow globe all the way through mid-June.”Insiders’ Tip — “Keep your eyes on the snow the night before. Sometimes those 4-inch days witha little bit of wind deliver skiing that is just as good as the 12-inch day. We’ve developed a live,snow-reporting tool called ‘Real Time Snow’ – to have a better idea when those sleeper days areshaping up. Even if it’s 11 p.m.”About Earlyups — “It’s an online ski magazine showcasing the sport’s latest photo and videocontent, updated daily. ‘Real Time Snow’ updates snowfall and weather by the hour.”

First JH winter memory — “Imoved to Jackson in 1978 andit was the coldest temperaturerecorded thus far: -63 F. Theski area was closed for aweek. Nothing was open ex-cept the bars. Cars wouldn’tstart. The electricity kept goingout. When we walked into theCowboy Bar, a snake-liketongue of frost rushed in withus. Spit froze before it couldhit the ground. It was wickedbitter cold.Insider’s Tip — “Haircutshelp hat-head.”

Holly FullerHair StylistJackson Hole skier 35 years

Patrick NelsonJeff BrinesCo-founders: Earlyups, anonline ski magazine. “We bothhave ‘real jobs’ too.”Jackson Hole skiers since 2007

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First JH winter memory — “I remember the reallygreat terrain. Every day was new and exciting! Ihaven’t missed a winter or a summer season yet –two great seasons with two amazing jobs. I enjoyexperiencing both seasons’ rewards and beautyand sharing my love of skiing and horses withguests.”Insider’s Tip — “Check out the ski area’s website,www.jacksonhole.com, and pick up the JacksonHole Skier and the summer Adventure Guide. Theguest service center at Teton Village has a well-in-formed, friendly staff that will be happy to help youmaximize your vacation time fun.”

Susan HeddenSki instructor (winter)Wrangler (summer)Jackson Hole skier since 1979Wrangler since 1986.

Bill LewkowitzBusiness Development DirectorJackson Hole Mountain ResortJackson Hole skier 33 years30 as a JHMR employeeFirst JH winter memory — “My first win-ter was 1981/82 and all I remember issnow. I think we got close to 600 inchesthat year after a drought the year before.”Insider’s Tip — “Get up early and be onthe first tram, gondola, or chair to get thebest snow, for powder andgroomers. Know which slopes face northand which face south/southeast. Realizethis is a big mountain and conditionsoften change with elevation, slope as-pect, and time of year. As for the back-country – if you don’t know, don’t go. Hirea guide. And, most important of all, besafe and have fun!”

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SKI TOWN JOBSDiane BenefielArtist, bookkeeper, and26 years co-owner with husbandKeith of The Chimney SweepsJackson Hole skier since February, 1977First JH winter memory — “First timewas on the Pass, about a week after Imoved here. I wore wooden skis (noedges) with 3-pin bindings, bamboo poles,and, most notably, cotton jeans. After sur-viving a wild ride down Black Canyon Iwas borderline hypothermic, but couldn’twait to ski again.”Insider’s Tip — “Be prepared. Even backin 1977, my pack contained water, food,wax, a scraper, and cork. I quickly up-graded my skiwear from cotton to wool;knickers, knee-socks, Dachstein mittens, aheavy wool sweater, and hat. Also, toavoid the parking fiasco, hitch-hike up –it’s legal now!”About Diane’s art — “Keith asked if Iwould paint a Teton Pass poster. We de-cided to go big and with the help of Asym-bol Imaging produced limited edition 18 x24 prints for Christmas gifts. They took offlike gang busters, sold out in a coupleweeks. Last fall came a second poster,‘Edelweiss,’ that sold out as well. The im-ages touch a chord, what it felt like to skithe Pass in the early days. A second print-ing, in stores this winter, is a smaller ver-sion of them. Next up, another Teton Passposter, featuring Glory Bowl.”

First JH winter memory — “SeeingCody for the first time! It was like amagnet. The o.b. was totally un-tracked...even Four Pines! I wentstraight up Cody and down Central(alone). Then boosted No-name’siconic cliffs. I was sold on skiing inJackson Hole. Mad amounts of ter-rain.”Insider’s Tip — “Enjoy your trip!Don’t drink and drive. Watch out forthe wildlife. And, of course, buysome of my art, please!”About Mike’s paintings — “I’m apainter. I have painted everythingfrom your house to your Ferrari. Ifocus on the artistic side of the paintspectrum these days, but also havea solid foundation in construction-type paintwork. Lately I have beenworking with stencil techniques to dopaintings that capture the alluringbeauty of our mountains, trying toget the people who appreciate thepower of our mountains to also con-nect on an artistic level. Our moun-tains are badass!”

Mike TierneyPainterJackson Hole skier since '97

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First JH winter memory — “Standing on top of Corbett’s. The anxiety.”Insider’s Tip – “Take a clear day or evening and ski Snow King for a few hours. You get amazing Tetonviews while skiing great intermediate and advanced terrain. Follow that up with dinner in town.”About Rick’s photography — “My current show is about the relationship between man and animal andit asked the question, “Who’s the Beast?” I call it “conceptual.” I tell a story and let the viewer decidewhat they think about it. Everybody has a relationship with animals. When you look at these things, youhave to come up with your own story, your own concept about what it is. I don’t care if people like or dis-like them, but I do care that it provokes thought. I want them to look at my imagery and know that thereis more than just a camera and a click of a button. There’s a thought. There’s a process.”

Rick ArmstrongArt Gallery OwnerPhotographerJackson Hole skiersince 1989

Childhood memory — “When Iwas in girl's boarding school, myfriends and I used to go on schooltrips to this crappy little hill on theEast Coast to ride blue ice. I can'tsay the snowboarding itself wasthat great, but we had a blastnonetheless falling on our faces,trying to ride the awful half pipe,and playing the most ridiculouspranks on the other girls at night.Good times on bad snow!”Insider’s Tip — “Wear a helmetand support local art.”About Kelly’s Art — “I love to tellstories. Every illustration I create isa piece of a story, whether it's obvi-ous to the viewer or not. Each char-acter, creature, and bit oflandscape has a personality andtale to tell. If you listen carefullyand use your imagination, youmight just be able to hear it!”

Kelly HalpinFreelance IllustratorNative BornJH Snowboarder since teens

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ast spring, entrepreneur and publisher ChristianBeckwith was selected by Jackson Hole’s Travel

and Tourism Board to create a tourism-boosting eventfor October, an otherwise slow month. The theme:Conservation.

“I’ve never considered myself a traditional conser-vationist,” he said, “and I’m not approaching conser-vation in a traditional way.”

Beckwith does know something about creatingevents, though. As publisher of the digital magazineOuterlocal he created a new sporting competition inJackson two years ago, theOuterlocal Summer Games,an instant success.

But this new event, calledSHIFT, would have to rise toa higher calling – Beckwith,like many a concerned citi-zen, feels the pull of our nat-ural world in peril.

“We live in such incredibleproximity to nature, we seewhen it gets disrupted,” hesaid. “We understand whenwe are part of the reason. That, in turn, gives us agreat opportunity to talk about it from a position ofauthenticity.”

One of SHIFT’s goal is to create strategic allianceswithin the greater Jackson community.

“There’re a lot of organizations here committed tosustainability. We need to crowd-source solutions,” hesaid. “If you just had a film festival you’d green-washit and it wouldn’t make any difference. But if we comeup with solutions that address the root causes of theimbalance, then you can say to your kids, ‘We didsomething.’”

The first puzzle to solve: find a catchy title.“SHIFT” emerged from a brainstorming session withlocal artist and entrepreneur Travis Walker.

“The word jumped out at us both. It’s connected toJackson because of plate tectonics,” said Beckwith.

“And it’s also what we have to do – shift our behavior,shift our perspective, shift parts of our culture.”

A future goal for SHIFT – and one that potentiallygets “heads in beds,” an important consideration forBeckwith’s employer – involves eco-travel communi-ties nationwide.

“Our team has identified 48 peer communities that,like Jackson, rely upon their natural capital for theirlivelihoods,” he said. “Some have hatched innovativeprograms and we’d like them to come to next year’sSHIFT and share those ideas and initiatives.”

Last fall’s three-day inauguralSHIFT event featured locallygrown food, conservation-mindedadventure films, slide shows, andspeakers.

Nearly 1,000 people attendedthe debut event, which included acommunity-wide cleanup and aconcert featuring Dan Deacon.

For Beckwith, though, the ele-ment closest to his heart will al-ways be found in the intersectionof conservation and adventure.

“The adventure athlete needs to take a leading rolein preservation,” Beckwith said. “POW, Protect OurWinters, has done a great job with this concept.”

Beckwith took another cue from the hunting andfishing industries.

“The conservation work by hunters and fishermensets the bar,” he said. “How do climbers and skiersbecome similarly engaged in the stewardship of theplaces we love to play?”

For Beckwith, SHIFT is the next chapter. And itdraws its strength from the power of the Jackson Holecommunity, a place he is honored to call his home.

“I hold my daughter in my arms and look up at thedying trees and ask myself ‘What can I do?’ SHIFT isthe answer.”

— Jackson Hole Skier

Christian Beckwith in The Rapture, Prospectors Mountain, Grand Teton National ParkPhoto by Jarad Spackman

Christian BeckwithSHIFT CO-FOUNDER

SKI TOWN GUARDIANS

Dedication“Jarad Spackman took this

photo of me on our last great

first descent on Prospectors

Mountain. We had skied

several new routes already

this season, opening up

three or four new lines. We

called this new route The

Rapture.

“Two weeks after this shot

was taken we got hit by the

avalanche that killed Jarad.

SHIFT is very much about

Jarad and the promise I

made – that I wouldn’t work

on anything, anymore, that

didn’t have meaning.”

— Christian Beckwith

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A future goal for SHIFT – andone that potentially gets“heads in beds,” an importantconsideration for Beckwith’semployer – involves eco-travelcommunities nationwide.

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www. jhsk ie r. ne t 2014 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 81

iking up the valley’s Crystal Butte to photograph abeetle-killed limber pine, Treefight co-founder

David Gonzales sang the dead tree’s praises.“These are the oldest, longest-living trees in North

America,” he said of the five-needle pine species. “Theyfound a bristle cone in California that’s 5,065 years old.And it’s alive!”

Gonzales’s mission – save the whitebark pine from ex-tinction – began in 2009 when he noticed the Jackson re-gion’s wholesale loss of these high-altitude,environmentally crucial trees.

His concern quickly led him to Dr. Jesse Logan, an en-tomologist whose1980s’ research inMontana and Idahoshowed that beetleproductivity, activity,and reproduction cor-responded to smallgradations in temper-ature. In 1990, whenthe IntergovernmentalPanel on ClimateChange published areport that predicteda rise in future tem-peratures. “Dr. Logancompared their temperature models to his research andpredicted that the whitebark pine would get hammered bybeetles,” said Gonzales.

“He was ridiculed by colleagues and actually repri-manded by his superiors for wasting resources to studythis. Now, 20 years later, most of the mature whitebarkare dead.

“These trees are national treasures, given their impor-tance to Yellowstone, the world’s first national park, andto the grizzly, our most famous, largest predator. What’sinherent in all these relationships is the natural intelligenceof this ecosystem, accumulated for millions of years – aslong as there has been life.”

TreeFight’s battle has shifted as Gonzales has worked

through these scant five years.“We planted trees, put pheromone patches on trees,”

he said. “Patches work, and we should continue that atski resorts, but I don’t know if it makes sense to protecttrees out in the wilderness. Planting trees make sense,but it’s almost too little, too late. The cones don’t produceseeds until the tree is 70 years old, so what’s going tohappen here in the meantime?”

Treefight’s initial, idealistic goal – to protect trees fromthese beetles – has changed.

“Now I understand that what’s really killing these treesis the changes to the atmosphere brought about by our

overzealous use of fossil fuels,”he said.

“The hope and the action tome is in education, becausethe people who are going to beaddressing this problem arethose who are 10-to-20-yearsold now. The best thing we cando is to show students what’sgoing on in the natural world,show them what changes areactually taking place.

“We’re using this cool pro-gram on Smartphones to shootspherical panoramas in the

woods. We can build time-lapses of different places in dif-ferent forests, get people engaged in looking at what’shappening on the ground. We can cultivate a new para-digm – we should all be personally responsible for ourown energy use. How it’s made, how we use it, how westore it. That means the energy in our cars, the energythat we eat, the energy we use for everything. Our entirelives.

“The first step in that difficult, long, and potentially im-possible process is collecting the evidence of thesechanges, like what Dr. Logan did. I look around and this isevidence to me. I’ve gone through that process. We needto get other people to go through that process, too.”

— Jackson Hole Skier

TreeFight co-founder David Gonzales stands near a beetle-killed limber pine on Crystal Butte in Jackson.

H

David GonzalesTREEFIGHT CO-FOUNDER

Gonzales’s mission – save the whitebarkpine from extinction – began in 2009 whenhe noticed the Jackson region’s wholesaleloss of these high-altitude, environmentallycrucial trees. “What’s inherent in all theserelationships is the natural intelligence ofthis ecosystem, accumulated for millionsof years – as long as there has been life.”

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www. focusproduc t i ons . com86 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2014

National Elk Refuge – Of-ficially it exists as a refuge forelk. But time and circumstancenow force these majestic ungu-lates to share that winter rangewith bighorn sheep, bison,mule deer, and yes, Virginia,sometimes wolves and moun-tain lions. Even grizzlies havebeen spotted crossing its sce-nic expanse. Set between theTeton and Gros Ventre moun-tain ranges, the National ElkRefuge rubs up against thetown of Jackson, affording vis-itors the chance to mingle withwildlife – unimpeded by zoobars or cages. And running qui-etly through that high-altitudesavannah is one of the coun-try’s most famous troutstreams, Flat Creek. You canlook, but don’t unholster thatrod until late summer. For thelatest on the refuge, visit www.fws. gov/nationalelkrefuge.

Western Dancing – Restless legs? Put ‘em to good use with a two-step or cowboy waltz at the Cowboy Bar on Thursday evenings between7-9 p.m. The Cowboy and the Dancers’ Workshop Country Western DanceProgram sponsor free instruction to anyone showing up before the bandhits the stage.

Paragliding – Kites-R-Fun, as the staff at Jackson Hole Paragliding

might say. Clear days and light winds inour valley help set the stage for anotherequally astonishing view of JacksonHole—from a paraglider! And the ex-perts at Jackson Hole Paragliding takefull advantage of these climatic condi-tions. They’ll happily help launchnovices and veterans alike over the val-ley in tandem paragliding flights that liftoff from the top of the resort’s BridgerGondola. This breathtaking experiencerequires no athletic ability and the ex-perienced pilots with Jackson HoleParagliding can even help those a bitdaunted by heights. Or, for a fresh takeon over-snow travel, try your hand atsnow kiting. Call 307-690-8726 or visitjhparagliding.com. Very cool photos onthe Website, too!

Ice Skating –The local Parks andRecreation organization sets up andmaintains four local rinks around thevalley. A perfect activity for familieslooking to enjoy relaxing exercise. For

rink locations, hours, and restrictions, visit www.tetonparksandrec.org.

Hockey – “GoMoose!” is the battle cry for the Jackson Hole Moose, whoplay full-check hockey in the Elite Senior A division of the USA Hockey As-sociation. Grab all the home action Friday and Saturday nights at SnowKing Sports and Events Center. $8 for adults and $3 for children. Visit theMoose online at jacksonholemoose.com.

Recreation Center – Of course we have heated indoor-recreation out-

DIVERSIONS

Elk Refuge Seigh Rides

Ice skating rink on the Town Square

by Mike Calabrese

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tory crowd during President’s Day Weekend. Now in it’s 43rd year, it’s slated forFebruary 15 and 16, 2014. Teams run two abreast in a 1/4-mile sprint to the finishat the polo grounds south of Jackson. Competitors are auctioned in a Calcuttawager before each heat, so high stakes and excitement mark this celebration, whichraises money for the Shriners’ philanthropic mission. Call 307-690-4669, go onlineat jhshriners.org, or find the outfit on Facebook.

Shriners’ Jackson Hole Ski-Joring championships – If the cutterraces ignited a fever for horses, racing, and snow, or if you missed all the fun, theShriners’ Jackson Hole Ski-Joring championships run on the following weekend,February 22 and 23, 2014. Not to be outdone by horse-drawn charioteers, skierstrust their skills and reins to cowpokes and their steeds while barreling along thetrack. Thundering hooves, blazing speeds, and air time off jumps guarantee thrillsfor all. Watch the excitement near Victor, Idaho, Jan. 18-19. Ski joring began sev-eral hundred years ago in Scandinavia as a way to travel during the long wintermonths.

Triple Crown pursuits – Watch or be watched in these winter festivals thatpush everyone’s adrenalin into the fun sphere: The Moose Chase on Saturday, Feb-ruary 15, 2014, at Trail Creek at the base of Teton Pass; The Town Downhill on SnowKingMountain, March 1-2, 2014; and the big daddy of them all, the Pole Pedal Pad-dle, slated for Saturday, March 29, 2014, at Teton Village, alongWyoming highways22 and 26, and on the Snake River, from South Park to Astoria. All events sponsored

www. focusproduc t i ons . com88 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2014

The torchlight parade descends Apres Vous, fireworks explode over Teton Village, and groomers work the slopes. Torchlight Parades light up the slopes atGrand Targhee, Snow King, and Jackson Hole on Christmas Eve or New Year’s Day.

The Int. Pedigree Stage Stop Sled Dog Race draws famed mushers.

WATCH OR BE WATCHED IN A VARIETY OF

WINTER FESTIVALS THAT PUSH

EVERYONE’S ADRENALIN INTO THE FUN SPHERE.

Dick’s Ditch at Jackson Hole Resort pits snowboarders and skiers against the mightygully that runs from the Headwall to the Village.

DIVERSIONS

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Into the great white open

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n most places, winter is tolerated, notembraced. But this is snow country!With so much of the white stuff carpet-

ing Wyoming’s mountains each winter,learning to love it is a necessity. And agreat way to appreciate this plush erminemantle is astride a snowmobile. So sad-dle up and head into the great white open.

Northwest Wyoming straddles the stunningContinental Divide and is blessed with some ofthe best snowmobile landscapes available inthe world, a veritable winter playground forsnowmobile enthusiasts.

Snowmobiles provide quick access to eventhe deepest reaches of the winter backcountry.Within minutes you can be far from the high-way and immersed in the Rocky Mountains’winter beauty.

Wondering if you can ride a snowmobile?Well, if you can drive an automobile and youhave an opposable thumb and forefinger, youshould be able to course down a groomed trailto, say, Old Faithful Geyser. You control thethrottle with your right hand and the brake withyour left hand. It may take a few miles to getthe feel of the trail, but most riders can masterthe basics quickly. Riding off-trail, though, willrequire a bit more experience. Off-trail snow-mobiling – prohibited in national parks – is askill-intensive sport. And just as driving a cardown the road doesn’t qualify one to race inthe Monte Carlo Grand Prix, steering a snow-

mobile along groomed trails is vastly differentfrom finessing it through woodlands and pow-der fields at breakneck speeds.

If you’ve never snowmobiled before, con-sider a tour company. They provide trans-portation right from your lodging and supplythe warm clothes and helments needed for acomfortable experience. The guides, trained insnowmobile and winter safety, also have ahandle on the area’s flora, fauna, and history.

Unguided rental excursions, though, are agreat way to see the country at one’s own pace.But be sure to be prepared for severe winterconditions. Know where you are going, andnever head into the backcountry alone!

Modern machines have evolved into awhole new beast from those of just 10 years

SnowmobilingSnowmobilingInto the great white open

Riding powder in Granite Creek, a favorite among snowmobile aficionados and newcomers alike.

Colorful hot springs, the wonder of Yellowstone

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APRÉS SKI, BREW PUBS, LOUNGESGRAND TARGHEE RESORTTHE TRAP BAR & GRILLE The World Famous Trap Bar is THE place to go after skiing the bestpowder in the West. Enjoy great food, great drinks, and live music almost every weekend. Wealso offer the White Lightnin’ Invitational Open Mic every Tuesday afternoon. (800) TARGHEEor www.GrandTarghee.com PG 35

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK, MOOSEDORNAN’S PIZZA & PASTA Enjoy great food & the best view of the Tetons. Full-service bar,open for lunch. M-F 11:30-3; Sat/Sun 11:30-5; Bar 10-6. 733-2415 ext 204. PG 39

JACKSONSNAKE RIVER BREWERY The Great American Beer Festival’s Small Brewery of The Year, 2000& 2001. Serving tasty brews, delicious pizzas, pastas & sandwiches. Free WiFi. From 11:30 amto Midnight, 7 days a week. 739-2337 PG 39

WYOMING WHISKEY - Wyoming wasn't made by man. Wyoming is a singular blend ofearth, rock, wood, grains, water weather and a whole lot of time. Same for the whiskey.Distilled, aged and bottled in Kirby, Wyoming. www.wyomingwhiskey.com PG 2

JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT – TETON VILLAGEALPENHOF BISTRO Located next to the Tram in the Alpenhof Lodge. Lunch, aprés, dinner, fullbar, fondue, beer, pretzels, brats, warm fireplace. 307-733-3242 PG 95

NICK WILSON'S COWBOY CAFE Located next to the Tram. Breakfast, lunch, daily specials,burgers, pizza, snacks and more. Vibrant Après Ski Happy Hour 3-6pm with food and drinkspecials. PG 19

VILLAGE CAFE In the Inn at Jackson Hole. Breakfast, lunch & Aprés Ski. Espresso, bakedgoods, wraps, sandwiches & the best pizza. 7am-10pm. Locals' aprés ski spot with full bar.732-CAFE PG 31

PINEDALE, WYOMINGWIND RIVER BREWING COMPANY Located in downtown Pinedale, Wyoming. The pub fea-tures handcrafted superior brews and many pub favorites including salads, homemade soups,appetizers, burgers, and fine steaks; all with generous portions.PG 87

BACKCOUNTRY GUIDE SERVICESGRAND TARGHEE RESORT FREE MOUNTAIN TOURS Backcountry Tours, and Early Tracksprograms with our professional guides. (800)-TARGHEE or www.GrandTarghee.com PG 35

JACKSON HOLE BACKCOUNTRY GUIDES Experience the Teton backcountry with a certifiedguide to reach untracked powder and challenging runs. Call Jackson Hole Mountain SportsSchool, 307-739-2779. PG 11

JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES Since 1968. Join JHMG for a day of untracked powder &solitude. Novice to expert ski tours, Teton ski mountaineering, Level 1,2 & 3 avalanche courses &ice climbing. AMGA accredited. www.jhmg.com 307-733-4979 PG 39

TETON BACKCOUNTRY GUIDES Operates the only hut system in the Tetons, allowing you anunparalleled backcountry experience with our professional guides. Since 1986. Daily Tours forall abilities in Grand Teton Park & Teton Pass. 877-754-4887 www.SkiTheTetons.com PG 39

BUS SERVICEGRAND TARGHEE EXPRESS Daily transportation from Jackson Hole & Teton Village to GrandTarghee. PG 35START BUS Jackson to Teton Village – Schedules , routes & fares are available at bus stops, lodgings& information centers. 733-4521

CUSTOM MADE SKIS – FACTORY DIRECTIGNEOUS Custom Skis, hand-crafted in Jackson Hole. 734-8788 www.igneousskis.com PG 15

DINING – RESTAURANTS – CAFÉSGRAND TARGHEE RESORTTHE BRANDING IRON GRILL is the best-kept dining secret at Grand Targhee Resort. Enjoylunch and dinner daily while dining slope side with your family. We offer a welcoming atmos-phere that is upscale, casual, and family friendly Reservations (800) TARGHEE orwww.GrandTarghee.com PG 35

SNORKEL’S CAFE AND BISTROWake up, dive in and refuel for another day of shredding! Notonly is this the place to start your Targhee experience, but also the place to do your carboloading for the next day. Snorkels is now open on Fridays, Saturdays and Holiday evenings forpizza and pasta dinners. (800) TARGHEE or www.GrandTarghee.com PG 35

THE TRAP BAR & GRILLE The World Famous Trap Bar is THE place to go after skiing the bestpowder in the West. Enjoy great food, great drinks, and live music almost every weekend. 1-800-TARGHEE PG 35

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK, MOOSEDORNAN’S PIZZA & PASTA Specialty pizzas, calzones, salads, pastas, sandwiches. Enjoygreat food & the best view of the Tetons. Full-service bar, open for lunch. M-F 11:30-3; Sat/Sun11:30-5; Bar 10-6. 733-2415 ext 204. PG 39

DORNAN’S TRADING POST GROCERY Open 8-5 daily. Gourmet cheeses & specialty foods,full grocery, gas available 24 hour. ATM 733-2415, ext 201; In the Moose Village, Grand TetonNational Park. PG 39

JACKSONTHE BUNNERY Best breakfast in town, served all day. Fresh baked pastries & we proudlybrew Starbucks Coffee. On North Cache, 1 block north of the town square. 734-0075. PG 25

JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo: jerky, salami, smoked roast, steaks & burger. Elk:steaks, burger & jerky. Gift packs, smoked trout & more! Free Samples. Certified 100% natural.We ship. South end of Jackson, in Smith’s Plaza. 733-4159/800-543-6328 PG 4

McDONALD’S® OF JACKSON HOLE Where quality, service, cleanliness & value are a tradi-tion. Featuring McDonald’s® freshly prepared breakfasts & regular menu favorites. WiFi avail-able for your convenience. 5:00am–midnight. 1110 West Broadway at highway 22. PG 27

SNAKE RIVER BREWERY & RESTAURANT The Great American Beer Festival’s SmallBrewery of The Year, 2000 & 2001. Serving tasty brews, burgers, delicious pizzas, pastas &sandwiches. Free WiFi. From 11:30 am to Midnight, 7 days a week. 739-2337 PG 39

JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT – TETON VILLAGEALPENHOF BISTRO Located next to the Tram in the Alpenhof Lodge serving lunch, aprésski,and dinner. A locals’ favorite serving European-style meals. Soups, burgers, brats, andentrees. Great deck outside, roaring fire inside. 307-733-3242 PG 95

ALPENROSE RESTAURANT Located next to the Tram in the Alpenhof Lodge serving break-fast and dinner. Enjoy a relaxed dining experience and hearty Swiss cuisine. Full fondue menu,Wiener Schnitzel, Jager Schnitzel, and wild game entrees. 307-733-3242 PG 95

NICK WILSON’S COWBOY CAFE in the Tram building, daily specials, sandwiches, burgers,chili, pizza & beer, wine & liquor. Breakfast-lunch & aprés ski, 7:30am-6pm daily, happy hour3-6pm. PG 19

VILLAGE CAFE In the Inn at Jackson Hole. Breakfast, lunch & Aprés Ski. Espresso, bakedgoods, wraps, sandwiches & the best pizza. 7am-10pm. Local's aprés ski spot with full bar.732-CAFE PG 31

JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT – ON THE MOUNTAINCASPER RESTAURANT Cozy mid-mountain skiers/boarders retreat. Specialty burgers, burri-tos, a warm up station serving hot drinks with a kick, and a new Bloody Mary Bar. PG 19

CAFE 6311 Base of the Bridger Gondola, serving toasted bagels, breakfast burritos, ever pop-ular wrap sandwiches, and espresso and coffee drinks served all day. PG 19

CORBET'S CABIN Top-of-the-World waffles at the top of the tram on Rendezvous Mountain,quick snacks, hot drinks with unlimited views that are on the house. PG 19

COULOIR RESTAURANT Fine dining at 9,095 ft. Step off the Gondola and walk into this contem-porary and elegant restaurant. Exceptional hospitality, delectable locally-sourced American cui-sine with Rocky Mountain roots. Lunch daily, dinner Wednesday-Friday. Reservations recom-mended for dinner. 307-739-2675 PG 19

HEADWALL PIZZA AND DELI Located at the top of the Bridger Gondola, a quick stop to getyou back on the slopes. Serving fresh pizza, house-made soups and gourmet grab and goitems. PG 19

RENDEZVOUS RESTAURANT AT 9,095 FT. Offering fresh salads, soups, Asian bowls and stirfries, grill meats and baked potatoes. Great view of Rendezvous Mountain and Corbet’sCouloir. PG 19

HELI & CAT–SKIINGALASKA RENDEZVOUS LODGE & HELI GUIDES, a full-service lodge, operates out ofValdez, Alaska, from March 1 through September. We offer full-service guides for Heli-skiing,whitewater rafting & fishing. www.arlinc.com, 307-734-0721, 907-822-3300 PG 51

GRAND TARGHEE SNOWCAT POWDER ADVENTURES Over 600 acres reserved for the ulti-mate powder experience. Breathtaking views of the Grand Tetons and over 500 inches annu-al snowfall. Half & Full Day options available. (800)-TARGHEE or www.GrandTarghee.com PG35

HIGH MOUNTAIN HELI-SKIING flies skiers into the mountains around Jackson Hole for day-long powder-skiing excursions for intermediate to expert skiers. 733-3274 PG 19

H2O GUIDES Heli-Skiing in Alaska, 18 regions - each the size of the Teton Range, Velvet pow-der snow, Authentic Alaskan ambiance with delicious cuisine and harbor views, 4 exclusiveThe next step in your skiing evolution is Alaska, seats are limited , powder is not! 907-835-8418, www.h2oguides.com PG 51

POINTS NORTH HELI-ADVENTURES Experience Alaska’s legendary Chugach Range. Withover 2,000 square miles of terrain, world-class guides, and 3 A-Star helicopters on-site, our all-inclusive trips will immerse you in the Alaska you’ve always dreamed of. (877) 787-6784,alaskaheliski.com PG 53

VALDEZ HELI-SKI GUIDES Our heli-skiing is unlike anything you could ever imagine. Runs arelong & adventurous, up to 5,000 vertical. Deep powder is the norm. We cater to advanced &expert skiers & riders so groups are always small. www.valdezheliskiguides.com, 907-835-4528 PG 55

ICE SKATINGSNOW KING CENTER at the base of Snow King Ski Area offers indoor daily public skating.For an updated schedule and prices call 734-3000 PG 23

OWEN BIRCHER PARK Outdoor public rink, illuminated 6-10 p.m. nightly, downtown Wilson733-5056.

INFORMATION – SERVICESAVALANCHE HAZARD & WEATHER FORECAST 307-733-2664

FOCUSPRODUCTIONS.COM Subscribe to our magazines, order posters & photography. Readthe online editions of Jackson Hole Skier, Teton & Yellowstone Country Adventure Guide, &the Jackson Hole Dining Guide. focusproductions.com.

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK 307-739-3300

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 307-344-7381

JACKSON HOLE & GREATER YELLOWSTONE VISITORS’ CENTER on North Cache Street inJackson has information on all activities in the area. Mon-Fri 8:00-5:00, Sat-Sun 10-2 pm. orcall the JACKSON HOLE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE. 733-3316

JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT GUEST SERVICE Located next to the tram ticket win-dows. Information on mountain/valley activities & events, daily snow & weather conditions, ver-tical foot club, lost & found. 307-739-2753 PG 11

JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN HOSTS Complimentary Mountain orientation tours leave from

APRÉS SKI | BREW PUBS | BACKCOUNTRY GUIDES | CUSTOM SKIS | DINING | HELI-SKIINGDirectory

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the front of Walk Festival Hall in Teton Village at 9:30 am daily. Hosts can answer questions& assist with anything from directions to off mountain activities. 307-739-2697 PG 11

JACKSON HOLE SKI CLUB Since 1938 has provided a ski education foundation for Alpine,Nordic & Snowboard junior racers. For discounts on local services & merchandise, buy a mem-bership at local ski shops. 733-6433

LOST OR STOLEN SKIS should be reported to the Sheriff’s Office 733-4052 or through theGuest Service Center, 739-2753.

SKI & SNOWBOARD STORAGE & LOCKERS Leave your gear at the mountain, convenientlockers & basket check available at the Bridger Center. 307-739-2755 PG 11

SKI & SNOWBOARD STORAGE & LOCKERS @ THE HOSTEL Affordable ski lockers hold 2-4pairs of skis OR 2 snowboards. Storage for 2 pairs of boots + bood drying$600 per seasonwhen paid by cash/check. Daily ($15) and weekly ($90) lockers too. 733-3415, [email protected] PG 95

TETON COUNTY LIBRARY has 50,000 books including a skiing and mountain climbing sec-tion, periodicals, newspapers, historical information and photographs. M-Th 10-9, Fri 10-5:30,Sat 10-5, Sun 1-5. Closed legal holidays. Corner of Snow King & Virginian Lane. 733-2164

US POST OFFICE: Teton Village: M-F 9:30-4, Sat 9-12, 733-3575; In Jackson: New P.O.-cornerof Powderhorn Ln & Maple Way; Old P.O.-corner of Pearl Av. & Millward St. 733-3650.

JEWELRY – ARTDANSHELLEY JEWELERS Wearable works of art created by Dan & Shelley, plus otherdesigners using gold & gems. From diamonds to elk ivory & Teton charms. GaslightAlley, just off the town square. 733-2259 PG 7

LODGINGGRAND TARGHEEGRAND TARGHEE RESORT’S selection of slopeside rooms will fit any style budget. The moun-tain village and rustic base area offers all the necessities to shopping, dining and access to2,600 diverse acres. In-town vacation homes offer great access to Teton Valley and the resort.(800) TARGHEE or www.GrandTarghee.com PG 35

GRAND TARGHEE SPA After a day on the mountain enjoy a massage or a soak in their heat-ed outdoor saltwater pool and hot tub. 1-800-TARGHEE PG 35

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK, MOOSEDORNAN’S SPUR RANCH CABINS 1 & 2 bedroom log cabins with full kitchen & living room.Located on the Snake River in Grand Teton National Park at Moose, with breathtaking viewsof the Tetons. 307-733-2522 PG 39

JACKSONANTLER INN Downtown Jackson. 100 units, hot tub, some fireplaces & suites, meeting room,fitness room. Ski & snowmobile packages available & ski shuttle. 43 W Pearl. 307-733-2535or 1-800-522-2406 PG 29

COWBOY VILLAGE RESORT In the heart of Jackson Hole, offers 82 individual log cabinsaccommodating groups of 2–6 people. Property amenities include kitchens in all cabins andtwo hot tubs. Ski & snowmobile packages available & ski shuttle.120 South Flat Creek Drive.307-733-3121or 800-962-4988 PG 29

ELK COUNTRY INN 88 units with 25 new log cabins. Family units with lofts. Hot tub & guestlaundry. Ski & snowmobile packages available & ski shuttle. 480 W Pearl. 733-2364 or 800-4-TETONS PG 29

JACKSON HOLE SUPER 8 Experience true western hospitality in the heart of Jackson Hole.Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wireless internet, microwave/refrigerator.Custom packages & group rates. www.jacksonholesuper8.com, 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, 800-800-8000/307-733-6833 PG 95

49ER INN AND SUITES Downtown Jackson. 142 units, 30 fireplace suites. indoor & outdoorhot tubs—fitness room—meeting facilities—continental breakfast. Ski & snowmobile pack-ages available & ski shuttle. 330 W Pearl. 307-733-7550 or 1-800-451-2980 PG 29

PAINTED BUFFALO INN provides comfortable lodging in the heart of downtown Jackson.Swimming pool, sauna, continental breakfast, WiFi & shuttle stops are just a few of theconveniences we offer our guest. 400 West Broadway, www.paintedbuffaloinn.com 800-288-3866 / 307-733-4340 PG 95

TRIANGLE C RANCH Complete winter recreation packages, “The Old West In Winter”–dogsled trips, snowmobile excursions, snowcoach to Yellowstone, lodging, meals. Transportationavailable. 800-661-4928 PG 91

JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT - TETON VILLAGEALPENHOF LODGE European style lodging & dining at the base of JHMR. Hot tub, pool,sauna, massage therapy, all in a cozy lodge setting with friendly professional staff. Manyrooms feature fireplaces and/or balconies & everyone enjoys a complimentary breakfast tostart the day. 307-733-3242 PG 95

THE HOSTEL Recognized for its value, location, and atmosphere, the Hostel is a Jackson Holetradition. Our guestrooms have either a kink bed or four twin beads, private bathrooms,daily housekeeping service, and access to our game room. All this and the lowest slope siderates. Private Room: $69-99, Bunks: $25-36 each. www.thehostel.us, 307-733-3415 PG 95

JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING Conveniently located next to the Teton Village Market,slopeside lodging & accommodation for all seasons. Affordable condos to luxury vacationhomes, perfect for family getaways and reunions. 800-443-8613, 307-733-3990 PG 95

MEDICAL SERVICES & EMERGENCY CAREST. JOHN'S CENTER OF EXCELLENCE IN ORTHOPAEDICS Jackson Hole's orthopaedic specialistsare renowned for their experience in knee, hip or shoulder replacement procedures and State-of-the-art technology. 888-739-7499 or visit tetonhospital.org/coe PG 5

ST. JOHN’S CLINIC AT TETONVILLAGE Medical Clinic for winter sports injuries and ailments. Open7 days a week during ski season. Staffed with board-certified emergency medicine physicians.Located at the Kids Ranch Building, Cody House, 307-739-7346. PG 45

ST. JOHN’S FAMILY HEALTH & URGENT CARE Walk-ins welcome. X-ray & laboratory serviceson-site so doctors can assess & treat your condition promptly. Open extended hours, evenings& weekends. In the Smith’s Plaza, 1415 S. Hwy 89, 307-739-8999 PG 45

ST. JOHN’S 4 PEAKS CLINIC IN TETON VALLEY IDAHO Mon - Fri: 8:30 am - 6:30 pm; Saturdays:8:30 am - 12:30 pm. 852 Valley Center Drive, Driggs, ID 208 354 4757 PG 45

ST. JOHN’S EMERGENCY DEPARTMENT Staffed 24/7 by board-certified emergency medicinephysicians. St. John’s offers comprehensive hospital care including diagnostic imaging, certifiedClinical Laboratory & Surgery Center services. 625 E. Broadway, 307-733-3636 PG 45

TETON ORTHOPAEDICS has a team of doctors and physical therapists that offer a fullspectrum of medical care devoted to diagnosis, treatment, and rehabilitation. Same-dayappointments available. www.tetonorthopaedics.com. 307-733-3900, 800-659-1335 555East Broadway next to St John’s Medical Center PG 47

MUSICNOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for all types of occasions. Call MikeCalabrese, 307-733-5459 pg 94

PHOTOGRAPHY & CAMERASDD CAMERA CORRAL Jackson’s oldest full-service camera store. Binoculars, digital & filmcameras, including Nikon, Canon, Leica. Friendly & knowledgeable staff. 2-hour film & digi-tal processing. 60 So. Cache, across from Eddie Bauer. 307-733-3831 PG 3, 97 & 98

WILD BY NATURE GALLERY features the wildlife & landscape photography of Henry H.Holdsworth. Behind the Wort Hotel, 95 West Deloney. 307-733-8877

SKI & SNOWBOARD RESORTSGRAND TARGHEE RESORT s a year round mountain resort situated on the western slope ofthe Tetons in Alta, Wyoming, accessible through Teton Valley, Idaho. Home to 500 annualinches and the most snowfall in Wyoming. (800) TARGHEE or www.GrandTarghee.com PG 35

JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT General Info 1-888-DEEP-SNO; snow conditions 307-733-2291; Ski School and activities 307-739-2779 PG 11

SNOWKINGNIGHT SKIINGOpen 4pm – 7pm Tuesday through Saturday, Rafferty and Cougar lifts.Night skiing on Snow King is both convenient and a unique way to enjoy the evening. (307) 733-3194 PG 23

SNOW KING MOUNTAIN RESORT is a hub for every kind of winter activity, offering downhill andcross country skiing, snowshoeing, ice climbing, tubing and much more. Open Tuesday throughSunday, 10am to 4pm. (307) 733-3194 snowkingmountain.com PG 23

SKIING–NORDIC SKI CENTERSGRAND TARGHEE NORDIC CENTER Featuring 15km of groomed classic and skate-specifictrails. Snowbikes allowed on trails with rentals from Teton Mountain Outfitters. (800)TARGHEE or www.GrandTarghee.com PG 35

NORDIC CENTERS Six maintained tracks and centers are open to the public in the JacksonHole & Yellowstone area.-

JEWELERY | LODGING | MEDICAL SERVICES | MUSIC | PHOTOGRAPHY | RESORTS