jackson hole magazine winter 2016

WINTER 2016

At fifty years old, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort has grown up while staying true to its founders visions.

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1WINTER 2016 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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CELEBRATING 10 YEARS

THE EXCEPTIONAL CLUB EXPERIENCE

Golf and so much more

Surrounded by the natural beauty of Jackson Hole,

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D E D I C AT E D B U T L E R S E R V I C E F O R Y O U R E V E R Y N E E D , S PA C I O U S R O O M S W I T H S O A K I N G T U B S , E XC L U S I V E S PA A M E N I T I E S A N D A C O M P L I M E N TA R Y C O O K - T O - O R D E R B R E A K FA S T T RA N S F O R M A S TA Y I N T O A N E X P E R I E N C E . W I T H A VA R I E T Y O F C O N F I G U RAT I O N S RA N G I N G F R O M 4 2 5 T O 1 5 5 0 S Q . F T. , T H E S E S U I T E S A R E P E R F E C T F O R C O U P L E S , E X T E N D E D FA M I L I E S O R C O R P O RAT E R E T R E AT S .

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CELEBRATING 10 YEARS

THE EXCEPTIONAL CLUB EXPERIENCE

Golf and so much more

Surrounded by the natural beauty of Jackson Hole,

3 Creek Ranch Golf Club provides a special place where

family and friends come together to enjoy a premier

mountain lifestyle in a private members-only club.

2800 Ranch House Circle | Jackson, WY 83001 | (307) 732-8920 | 3creekranchgolfclub.org


66 Wild ChildAt fifty years old, JHMR has grown up while staying true to its founders visions.BY THE EDITORS

76 Crown Jewels at the End of their Golden Age?As the National Park Service turns one hundred, the examples set byand the problems seen byYellowstone and Grand Teton parks are more important than ever.BY TODD WILKINSON

PHOTO GALLERY

88 Engraving YellowstoneBefore there were photos, there were illustrations and engravings.

94 Riding HighIn Jackson Hole, snowmobiling isnt just a sport, but a culture. BY JOHANNA LOVE

ON THE COVER: Professional skier Chris Benchetler drops into the gaping maw of Corbets Couloir during the record snowfall winter of 2010-11. The day before this photo was taken, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort received twenty-nine inches of snow, the most ever recorded in a twenty-four-hour period. Corbets is one of JHMRs most iconic chutes (see story on p. 24) and is considered a test piece for expert skiers. PHOTO BY BRADLY J. BONER

Jackson HoleWinter 2016

Page 66Features

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Charles M. Russell (18641926), A Bronc Twister, bronze, 18 high, Est.: $300-500,000, Sold at Auction: $1,033,000

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Jackson HoleWinter 2016

TETONSCAPES20 Mountain Coaster, Nonprofit Skiing,

Corbets, Take the Bus

PIQUED30 Some of our favorite winter stuff

Q&A36 Meet the Locals

Phil Cameron, Mickey Babcock, andSophia Andrikopoulos

ON THE JOB42 Baking Bagels

Pearl Street Bagels bakes fresh all day.BY ELIZABETH HOCHREIN

BUSINESS46 Airport Helps Jackson

Hole SoarThe valleys economy would be very different if it werent for our airport. BY BEN GRAHAM

DESIGN52 Classic Lodge

Some things never go out of style.BY JOOHEE MUROMCEW

LOOKING BACK104 An Oasis in East Moose

Enduring for nearly a century, Dornans has aged like a fine wine.BY JIM STANFORD

OUTDOORS108 Rolling Over

Put clownishly large wheels and tires on a bike and you can ride on snow.BY JULIE KLING

JH LivingGETTING OUT

115 Splitting UpSometimes its good for snowboards to break in half.BY FREDERICK REIMERS

120 The Gist of our GeologyFree talks explain this valleys landscape.BY LILA EDYTHE

124 Glide OnCross-country skiing at a historic dude ranch. BY DINA MISHEV

BODY & SOUL130 Soak It Up

Make dry skin a problem of the pastBY MAGGIE THEODORA

NIGHTLIFE134 Playing Bar

Bars arent just about drinking.BY JULIE KLING

DINING138 Game On

Hunting for wild game at Jackson Hole eateries BY JOOHEE MUROMCEW

ART SCENE148 A New Sense of Place

Contemporary western landscape art is not an oxymoron.BY JEANNETTE BONER

AS THE HOLE DEEPENS156 Bears eat ice cream.

Moose dont.BY TIM SANDLIN

158 JACKSON HOLE MAPPED

160 CALENDAR OF EVENTS

Best of JH

Page 115Page 124

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Greetings from the EditorITS NO SECRET that last winter wasnt the best. I think the last time I skied fresh powder was late January. But as much as locals complained, Jackson Hole fared bet-ter than most everywhere else in the West. Friends from Colorado, California, Utah, and Montana came here to, ostensibly, visit me. Without fail, though, on their first full day theyd disappear into the

backcountry or to Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Thinking the skiing wouldnt be great, I didnt mind staying home to work until they returned in the evening to regale me with sto-ries of how awesome it was. But even if it hadnt been awe-some, whats that saying? Even a bad day of skiing is better than a good day at work?

Except that doesnt hold true when work is editing Jackson Hole magazine. Sure, my visiting friends dinner conversations made me wish I didnt have stories to edit or write, but that sen-timent always only lasted briefly, until I opened the next article

or reread an interview. Turn to Jim Stanfords piece about the history of Dornans on page 104 and tell me what you learn in it isnt worth giving up a ski run or two.

As usual, Todd Wilkinsons environmental feature is a high-light. Montana-based Wilkinson, who wrote the text to accom-pany Tom Mangelsens recent coffee table book, Grizzlies of Pilgrim Creek, looks at the National Park Service as it readies to celebrate its one hundredth anniversary in 2016 (Crown Jewels at the End of their Golden Age? on p. 76). Wilkinson presents that organizations history, and critically and thought-fully looks ahead to what its future might hold.

Tim Sandlin writes an essay poking fun at our valley for every issue of this magazine. Hes been doing this since long before my time as editor. Of each of his eight essays Ive had the privilege to work on, Ive said and believed: This is the funniest one ever! I really mean it this time (Bears eat ice cream. Moose dont., p. 156). (If you agree, you should check out Tims books, several of which are set in a fictional Jackson Hole.)

When youre done marinating on Todds article and laughing at Tims, learn which moisturizers are best for you in Soak It Up, p. 130. Or if your skin is already silky and soft, read Sam Morses short piece about the new Cowboy Coaster at Snow King, Soar Down the Slopes, p. 20. Tell me it doesnt get you fired up to try it. Fresh powder or not, that ride is definitely worth sacrificing a ski run or two. DINA MISHEV @DINAMISHEV


PUBLISHERKevin Olson

EDITORDina Mishev

ART DIRECTORWayne Smith

PHOTO EDITORBradly J. Boner

COPY EDITORPamela Periconi

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jeannette Boner Kelsey Dayton Lila Edythe Ben Graham Mark Huffman Julie Kling Johanna Love Caroline Markowitz Sam Morse Joohee Muromcew Frederick Reimers Tim Sandlin Jim Stanford Maggie Theodora

Todd Wilkinson

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Price Chambers Zack Clothier Mark Flicks Jeffrey Kaphan Wade McCoy Steve Remich Sargent E. Schutt Jonathan Selkowitz Derek Stal David Stubbs Angus M. Thuermer Jr. Levi Tormanen Ashley Wilkerson Bob Woodall

ADVERTISING SALESDeidre Norman

ADVERTISING ACCOUNT COORDINATOROliver OConnor

AD DESIGN & PRODUCTIONLydia Redzich

Sarah Grengg Amy Yatsuk

DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENTAmy Golightly

DISTRIBUTION Hank Smith Pat Brodnik Jeff Young Kyra Griffin

OFFICE MANAGERKathleen Godines

Winter 2016 // jacksonholemagazine.com

Jackson Hole magazine

2016 Jackson Hole magazine. All rights reserved. No part of this production may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher. No responsibility will be assumed for unsolicited editorial contributions. Manuscripts or other material to be returned must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope adequate to return the material. Jackson Hole magazine is published semiannually. Send subscription requests to: Jackson Hole magazine, P.O. Box 7445, Jackson, Wyoming 83002. (307) 732-5900. Email: [email protected]. Visit jacksonholemagazine.com.

Its JHMRs 50th anniversary this year. How are you going to celebrate?

Photograph the return of the Powder 8 competition in Cody Bowl.

See how many tram laps I can do in one day.

Im going to spend a lot of time writing at Corbets Cabin, enjoying the space before the inevitable upgrade.

Strap a pair of skis on our two-year-old daughter and send her down Rendezvous! Or maybe just take her to the base of the mountain.

Take my toddler to the mountain for his first skiing experience!

Snowboard fifty days.

Ski Corbet ,s Couloir.

Master the Wiggle.

Eat fifty fresh waffles at Corbets Cabin.


Contributors

Ashley Wilkerson (Game On, p. 138) specializes in wedding, portrait, and commercial photog-raphy. After working in photojournalism for five yearsher photos appeared in The Washington Post, Bloomberg News, and the Jackson Hole News&Guide, among other publicationsshe launched her own photography business in 2009.

Though Frederick Reimers (Splitting Up, p. 115) grew up in Mississippi, skiing was there at the inceptionhis parents met on a ski trip to Timberline Lodge on Oregons Mount Hood. A blizzard shut the lifts down, so all there was to do was hang out in the bar, his parents say. Fortunately, they met, creating not only Reimers but also an origin story befitting a ski writer. The former editor of Canoe & Kayak magazine is also a regular contributor to Skiing, Outside, and Mens Journal.

Todd Wilkinson (Crown Jewels at the End of their Golden Age? p. 76) is the author of the new book Grizzlies of Pilgrim Creek: An Intimate Portrait of 399, The Most Famous Bear of Greater Yellowstone, featuring 150 images by famed Jackson Hole wildlife photographer Thomas D. Mangelsen (available at mangelsen.com/grizzly). Known today for his environmental reporting, Wilkinson started his career as a violent crime reporter with the City News Bureau of Chicago and is a contributor to National Geographic, The Christian Science Monitor, and many other publications.

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IM A GUINEA pig on Snow King Mountain Resorts new mountain Cowboy Coaster, rid-ing it almost immediately after it opens at the in-town ski hill this fall. I apprehensively load the cart-sled hybrid and give the attendant an enthusiastic thumbs-up. With that simple gesture, magnets mounted on the tubular stainless steel system tug me forward and up the rides 370 vertical feet.

Snow King Mountain, the first ski area in the state of Wyoming, had lost some of its luster in recent decades as its lifts aged and other ski resorts morphed into year-round destinations. This winter, though, skiers and snowboarders enjoy a revamped Rafferty lift: the double chair is now a fixed-grip quad that extends a couple hundred feet higher up the mountain. Earlier, the Treetop Adventure Parka ropes-type obstacle course in the trees above what are ski slopes in winter

and hiking and biking trails in summerwas completed. And then came the Cowboy Coaster, Wyomings first mountain coaster, which opened in early October.

It takes only a few minutes to get to the top of the coaster. Excited to test the promised high speed of 27 mph, I push my carts controls forward, effectively throwing the throttle wide open. Riders dont have to go max speed; every rider can control his or her own pace, and there is anti-collision technology that prevents speedsters from slamming into the coaster carts of slower riders in front of them.

Mountain coasters differ from standard

roller coasters most notably in how they are powered and how quiet they are. Magnets pull the coaster carts up, while gravity powers their descent. Snow Kings was engineered and built by Wiegand Sports, which has installed over 180 Alpine Coasters around the world. The Cowboy Coaster differs from the Alpine Slide, which Snow King opened about forty years ago, in that it is, well, like a roller coaster rather than a slide. Faster and twistier, mountain coasters have rolls, 360-degree turns, and waves. (The addition of the Cowboy Coaster does not mean Snow King will discontinue its Alpine Slide; the slide only operates in the summer.)

My coaster expectation is of a toned-down kiddie experience, and almost imme-diately, the Cowboy shows me Im wrong. Flying out of the first turn, speed and gravity already anchor me to the back of my seat, but, seeing a corkscrew coming, I brace fur-ther. Id rather do that than check the carts speed. Going through the second turn, it has my full attention, and my vocal cords. What else can you do when so exhilarated other than scream? About five minutes after I first sit in the cart, Im back at the bottom, laughing and reveling in the fact that I have a ticket for a second ride.

The idea of installing a mountain coaster at Snow King was controversial; a major con-cern was its noise. If my reactionholler-ing and laughing loudlyis any indication, it might not be noise from the coaster that locals need to worry about but the roar of happy riders.

The countrys first mountain coaster opened in Glenwood Springs, Colorado, in 2005. Since then, nearly two dozen more have been built, from Park City, Utah, to the continents longest (the descent is just over one mile) at Berkshire East Mountain Resort in Charlemont, Massachusetts. Compared to other coasters around the country, the Cowboy Coaster is above average in terms of speed, length, and exhilaration. After climbing 370 vertical feet straight and steady from the resorts base, it winds and loops its way down nearly two-thirds of a mile through a thick pine forest. The trees occasionally open to yield views of the Tetons, town, and the National Elk Refuge, but, going full speed, Ill admit my attention wasnt focused on the scenery.

Open starting Dec. 19; $21 for driver, passengers $8; snowkingmountain.com JH

Tetonscapes fun

Soar Down the SlopesThe states first Alpine Coaster opens at Snow King Mountain.

BY SAM MORSE

The states first mountain coaster opened at the states first ski area, Snow King, this fall. It runs this winter season.

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THE THOUSANDS OF Mexicans who arrived in Jackson Hole in the past twenty years didnt come for the powder. Emily Coombs, who has traveled far and wide for a fresh line and founded steep-skiing and heli-skiing camps with her late husband, Doug Coombs, knows that. Theyre not here to ski, Coombs says of the immigrants. Theyre here to work. Add to that the cost and the cultural barrier, and you can see why getting Latino children on downhill skis is an uphill battle.

Jorge Moreno is a good example. Now a caseworker at Jacksons Latino Resource Center, Moreno came to Jackson from the Mexican state of Guerrero via Texas in 1997, when he was fourteen, to work as a dishwasher. He didnt get on skis until 2014. Ninety percent of Mexican citizens havent seen snow, he says. Their first Rocky Mountain winter is overwhelming. Moreno says Hispanics, now nearly 20 percent of Teton Countys population, look up at the slopes, see skiers, and they think its something they are never going to do.

Coombs saw the unplanned segregation when she took her son, David, now in sixth grade, to ski. The faces in Davids ski school classes were almost as pure white as the snow. That was a few years after her husband, Dougwho helped pioneer the sport of extreme skiingdied in 2006 in France while trying to help a fellow skier. She had been looking for an opportunity to honor Doug in a meaningful way. Enter the Doug Coombs Foundation, which helps low-income

kids, and their parents, ski but is about so much more than skiing.

Teaching kids that otherwise would not have the opportunity to ski bridges a barrier in this community. Jackson Hole has deep ties to ski-ing, and the sport is a big part of life here. The more residents who can be exposed to it, the closer the com-munity becomes. Skiing is good to get kids into the wider community, Coombs says. Its a way for them to complete their integration. Its a problem in the future if they stay seg-regated. This is a good opportunity when theyre little to make friends.

Mary and Beatriz Chavez have been in Jackson close to a decade, and their daughters are proof of what Coombs saw. Once they first tried ski-ing, they loved it, Mary Chavez says. Now they dont want to miss a class.

Its first year, the foundations ski-ing program grew from an initial meet-ing of 8 kids to 28. Last winter, there were 123 young skiers, as well as some of their parents. The foundation raises money to buy skis and lift tickets for kids who cant afford them. It also works with Snow King Mountain Resort to provide instruction. The foundation has supported two students to join the Jackson Hole Ski and Snowboard Clubs alpine racing program.

Coombs started the program with $5,000 of her own cash. She gets discounted gear from Marmot and K2. The program ran last year on about $200,000. The biggest part of that was spent on skiing, though the foundation has expanded to include

a summer climbing program with Exum Mountain Guides and a part-nership with Jackson Hole Youth Soccer. We want kids to stay in shape year-round, Coombs says. Most donations are small and come via Internet appeals. The foundation has never seen a gift larger than $5,000, Coombs says.

Scott McGee, director of the Mountain Sports School at Snow King, says the Coombs Foundation has broken down the wall between Hispanics and the sport and business of skiing. For people who have always lived here, skiing is easy, McGee says. But if you dont know anyone here who skis, its hard to get started. This program has brought kids like that in. He expects Jacksons Latino residents will come to see skiing the way its Anglo-American residents do: Youve got to put up with the cold, so you might as well enjoy it. JH

Tetonscapes community

Coming Together Through SkiingA nonprofit founded by the widow of one of the worlds greatest skiers introduces kids to the sport her husband loved.

BY MARK HUFFMAN

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The Doug Coombs Foundation raises money to buy equipment and lift tickets for area kids who cant afford them. It also works with Snow King to provide instruction. Above are foundation kids on the first day of ski school in 2014.

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XV Crosstrek. Learn more at subaru.com

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Tetonscapes icon

AFTER SHE MADE the decision to ski Corbets Couloir at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Morgan Kilmain knew she needed to follow one tip: You dont look at it for too long, she says. You just go for it. If you stare at it, youll get superscared and youll be like, Thats too scary. Morgan was seven years old when she decided she was ready to ski Corbetsthe run often called out in maga-zines like SKI and Skiing as the most difficult in the country. (Shes now eleven.)

The conditions were about as good as they could get for Morgans first time. It was a huge snow year, and some of the most imposing rocks along the runs sides were covered. Also, there was enough snow at the entrance that she could ease her way in instead of doing the ten-foot jump usu-ally required. Still, it was a fifty-some-degree slope she eased her way in to. Despite knowing better, it was impossible for Morgan not to pause at the topbut only for sev-eral seconds and some final coaching from

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her father, Bob, who skis the run about fifty times a season, sometimes showboating and entering with a flip. You can do it. Trust your edges, he told her. Then came the magic words hed said to Morgan the first time she skied any new, intimidating run: three, two, one, dropping.

Usually when he says that, I do it, Morgan explains. And she did it at the top of Corbets, nailing the run. When she was seven years old.

Dont let the fact that Morgan, at such a young age, successfully skied Corbets Couloir, known throughout the ski world sim-ply as Corbets, fool you. The run is a test piece for North American skiers. If youre an expert skier and tell a fellow skier youve skied Jackson, chances are the first question he or she will ask is, Did you ski Corbets? If your answer is no, chances are the conver-sation will veer back to last weekends game. If the answer is yes, chances are the asker will nod with approval and awe.

Rock walls guard the couloir. Whether you ease yourself in, as was possible in the huge winter of 2010-11, or have to take the straight-line plunge off the cornice at the top, once you are in, theres no turning back. The entrance and first turnif you dont immediately make a hard right, youll smash into the western rock wallare the toughest parts of the run. Make it past those and things get easy, relatively speaking: the fifty-some-degree pitch mellows out to forty-some degrees and the couloir widens. Often, its middle and bottom are choked with pow-der sloughed off above, a reward for making it that far.

CORBETS COULOIR IS named after Barry Corbet, a Dartmouth grad (Class of 58) who came to Jackson Hole and became one of the valleys, and countrys, most accom-plished ski and climbing guides. Corbet saw the narrow crease of snow surrounded by rock walls and prophesized, Some day somebody will ski that.

That somebody was Lonnie Ball, a nine-teen-year-old ski patroller. He did it the second season the resort was open. Ball did not ski it on purpose but fell into it and, landing upright, figured he should just keep going. Since then people have done it on snowboards, telemark skis, and even monoskis. Its been skied by someone wearing a costume that made them look like a slice of pizza.

Corbets is one of those runs you can never truly master, Bob Kilmain says. Its like a puzzle. Its always different. Theres always a new line. Theres always a chance of everything going wrong and that does happen even to the best skiers in this town. That run will getcha. Its not one you can be complacent about. Kilmain himself has wrecked in spectacular fashion several times, with skis, poles, and gear flying everywhere. Locals call this type of fall a yard sale. If you wreck in Corbets theres usually a yard sale involved, and its always viewed by several dozen people. The resorts tram passes the run. There is a crowd at the top, some waiting to ski it themselves, but most are just there to spectate, and then there are spectators down in Tensleep Bowl, which the run opens into. If you fall in Corbets, everyone knows about it, says Tigger Knecht, who yard-saled magnificently his first time. One local skier recommends the resort put a webcam on the couloir: People would watch it constantly. JH

Corbets CouloirSki it or see it, but dont miss it

BY KELSEY DAYTON

Costumed spectators line the cliff band above Corbets Couloir as a skier takes the plunge on the last day of the season at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort.

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Tetonscapes outdoors

ITS ALMOST TEN oclock at night. Teton Village is still and silent with one excep-tion: its bus stop, which is packed. Despite the fact the lifts closed nearly six hours ago, some waiting passengers are still in their ski and snowboard gear, including boots. These champion aprs-skiers, all reeking of beer, are in two categories: the long day caught up with two of them, who slump on the benches in-side the covered waiting area; three others are still going strong, beers in hand, loudly talking about how hard they shredded the slopes that day and oblivious to the frigid temperatures. Not one of them is wearing a hat or gloves.

While the drunk skiers are the loudest, theyre not so loud as to drown out snippets of languages other than English. A handful of twenty-something guys speaks in Japanese. A cluster of what is most likely a group of stu-dents here working at the ski resort or one of the hotels at the base on J-1 visas chatters in Spanish. From their accents its likely theyre from Argentina. Four Latino women in their thirties and forties giggle more than they talk. A fifty-something couple, both wrapped in long, black, down coats, speak quietly in French.

When the bus, which is a Red Line, the route with the greatest coverage of East Jack-son, pulls up, a cheer led by the skiers still drinking reverberates through the base area.

The valleys STARTSouthern Teton Area Rapid Transitbuses efficiently get rid-ers around Jackson (the Town Shuttle) and

between Jackson and Teton Village (four routes: green, red, yellow, and blue) and also between Jackson and Star Valley and Jack-son and Teton Valley (commuter routes). In winter, when there are one hundred daily trips between town and Teton Village (com-pared to nineteen daily trips during summer), a START ride doubles as a not-to-be-missed experience. After all, it is the busiest transit system in the state. We do five thousand rides a day in winter, says shift supervisor Tom Guheen, who has worked for START since 1999. Few other areas in the state have a public transit system, and they dont come anywhere close to our numbers.

START WAS FOUNDED in 1987 as a winter-only enterprise. The idea was to get local and visiting skiers living/staying in town to the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort in Teton Village. Its first year, it had no buses of its own. We used the buses that whitewater companies used in the summer, Guheen says. Within a couple of years, START bought a handful of its own buses.

The next big milestone was around the turn of the millenniumthe addition of the Town Shuttle, a free service with stops in East and West Jackson that brings riders from out-side the downtown area to hubs where they can then connect to buses going to Teton Village. Say a bus to Teton Village starts at Snow King Resort. You get on there and thir-ty-four minutes later, youre at Teton Village, Guheen says. What if that bus had to go to the high school or meander around town for an hour and a half? Then no one would ride it. Thats where the Town Shuttle comes in,

bringing riders to central hubs like Kmart.By 2002, annual ridership was up to

about two hundred thousand, and, in winter, there were about thirty-seven daily trips be-tween town and Teton Village.

In 2014, the most recent year for which stats are available, nearly one million people rode a START bus. Transit staff calculated this kept enough cars off the road that 143,000 gallons of gas were saved. That equates to saving 2.45 million pounds of carbon emissions. Today, the START fleet includes twenty-nine vehiclesincluding the states first hybrid buses and nearly one dozen buses with Wi-Fi. In December 2014, START got a new 42,000-square-foot transit center/headquarters. START employees call it the bus barn. We can park the entire fleet in there at night now, Guheen says. Prior to the transit center, every winter morn-ing STARTs fleet idled in an open parking lot as the buses warmed up.

The bus barn is the most awesome building in Jackson, Guheen says, being completely serious. These buses used to be outside in 10- to 20-degree-below-zero weather all winter long. Now theyre inside in a heated environment. It is hard to appreciate it, but these buses are a good size. Imagine if you left the windows and doors of your house open all night and then at 6 a.m. turned on the heat to try and get the house warm. Thats kind of what it was like with these buses. Finally, after a couple of hours, the heat would get going. The new building is a much better situation. Bus repairs are also down, as is maintenance. The opportunity for people watching is as high as ever, though. JH

OWNTHE COLD

Born in the Arctic.Designed for Warmth.

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Southern Teton Area Rapid Transit (START) is the states busiest public transportation system. Routes go between Jackson and Teton Village, around Jackson, and, for commuters, between Jackson and Star Valley and Jackson and Teton Valley, Idaho.

JacksonHole by BusRide the bus between Jackson and Teton Village and enjoy a classic Jackson Hole experience.

BY MAGGIE THEODORA

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1/ CITY SLICKER Waterproof, windproof wool has never looked as good as it does in Oregon-based designer Hillary Days Origami coat. Her secret? Schoellers c_change fabric. For the Origami coat, Rhode Island School of Design-trained Day (she apprenticed under Vera Wang) took inspiration from a vintage fur coat and updated it with a sculptural folded collar and wide cuffs. $625, hillaryday.com

2/ HEAD CASEDeveloped in collaboration with POC team athlete Aaron Blunck, the new, highly ventilated Auric helmet is lightweight while providing increased protection for the ears and temples. Best of all? Your beanie and goggles fit underneath it. $120, Jackson Hole Sports, 7720 Granite Rd., Teton Village

3/ HYDRO FLASKThermoses are so twentieth century, and heavy. Hydro Flask comes in fun colors and their BPA-free, stainless steel, insulated bottlesfrom 12-ounce water bottles to a 64-ounce growlerare the lightest out there. Its their food flasks, available in 12- and 18-ounce sizes, that were never without, though. While friends break out trail mix or a frozen bar, weve got hot soup. From $21.99, Skinny Skis, 65 W. Deloney

4/ GLORY BE The mens and womens models of Dakines new Heli Pro DLX 24L pack have different fits but share a smart design that carries skis (diagonally) or a snowboard (horizontally or vertically). Both come with a shovel pocket, a fleece-lined goggle pocket, and an insulated hydro sleeve. If theres a better pack for the hike upMt. Glory, we have yet to find it. $110, dakine.com

5/ CLASSIC MEETS CONTEMPORARYThis season, Smith pairs its technologically advanced I/O 7 gogglesits dual-axis outrigger system and three-layer DriWix foam conform to your face without pinching, an AirEvac system interfaces with your helmet to reduce fogging, and its spherical Carbonic-X polycarbonate lens is designed using TLT optics, mirroring the shape of your eyeswith classic prints from Woolrich. $225, Jackson Hole Sports, 7720 Granite Rd., Teton Village

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6/ A PERFECT PARKAStay warm and dry while storm skiing. Stios Shot 7 Insulated Jacket (available in mens and womens) combines 800-fill HyperDRY water-repellent down with a waterproof/breathable outer layer, pit zips, a removable powder skirt, and helmet-compatible hood. Tell us its not the ski jacket of this season. $550, 10 E. Broadway Ave.

7/ DUAL PERSONALITYMammuts Trea pants feature stretch, water-resistant Schoeller and Dyneema ski-edge protection. Combine these with integrated gaiters, articulated knees, and side ventilation and youve got the best backcountry ski pants around. Or maybe the best mountaineering pants around. $300, mammut.com

8/ JACKSON-TOUGHWinner of Powder Magazine Skiers Choice, Backcountry Magazine Editors Choice, and Ski Magazine Gold Medal Gear, Dynastars Cham 2.0 97 seems made for Jackson Hole. Its moderate tip rocker, traditional camber, and sidecut proportions can handle most anywhere on the mountain. $800, dynastar.com

9/ FOOT-FRIENDLYDesigned by a former ski racer, Apexs new ML-3 (womens) and MC-3 (mens) boots feature a unique two-part systema Walkable Support Boot that locks into an Open Chassis. The boots won 2016 fitters favorite and 2016 innovator awards from the group Americas Best Bootfitters. Walking around the base area, or to the slopes, wear just the Support Boot, which has an outsole with serious traction. When its time to ski, lock the Support Boot into its Open Chassis, step into your bindings, tighten up the boots Boa Focus Closure System, and youll feel more connected to your skis (and more comfortable) than ever before. $795, apexskiboots.com

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Q: Why Jackson Hole?A: I first came during college to drop off a friend. I went on to a summer geol-ogy project near Red Lodge [Montana]. A year after that, I came here to work as a fishing guide. Later, I completed graduate work and taught field science courses at Teton Science Schools. Its an unparalleled place to teach about the natural world.

Q: Fishing guide to energy guru seems like a leap. Howd that happen?A: Ive always been a great one for asking questionsso my parents tell meand I thrive on new challenges and have a knack for reading my way into new skills.

Phil Cameron PHIL CAMERON DIDNT come here to tell people to turn off lights. (Like most, he came for a season after collegein his case, to be a fishing guide.) Thirteen years later, he finds himself talking lights, though. The Ohio native, who has a geology degree from Amherst College, spent nearly six years as a guide, environmental educator, and resource manager before he got into working to reshape the way the community looks at and uses energy. Today, hes the executive director of Energy Conservation Works (ECW), a Town of Jackson/Teton County/Lower Valley Energy (LVE) pro-gram that pushes and provides funding so that people can make more efficient and sustainable energy choices, says Cameron, thirty-five. With LVE, ECW gives valley homeowners and businesses LED starter kits for free. Kits contain an assortment of LED light bulbs. ECW also worked to install new lights for night skiing at Snow King. These lights cut electricity consumption by 40 percent while better illuminating the slopes and sending less light pollution into the sky.

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Q: And what about a knack for telling people what to do, even if its in the best interest of the planet?A: Most people are interested to better understand the issue of energy conserva-tion. Very few people choose to be will-fully wasteful. We help them improve the comfort and value of their home while saving on their utility bill. I havent met anyone yet whos not interested in one or all of those things.

Q: Do you ever feel like a bossy pants?A: No. The way I look at it, were con-necting people with resources and infor-mation that can influence their deci-sions. They make the decisions. Its not like were asking people to make huge sacrifices. We provide ideas for reason-able things they can undertake.

Q: Such as?A: The cheapest thing is changing your behavior. Turn off the lights. If you turn your thermostat down 10 to 15 degrees for eight hours while you sleep, you can save 5 to 15 percent a year on your heat-ing bill. Thats from the Department of Energy. If you live here, a home energy audit through LVE helps you understand your baseline energy usage.

Q: How energy-efficient is your own house?A: My wife, Robin, and I recently moved into a single-family home. One of the first things I did was to understand its energy use. Then we started making changes like upgrading to a Wi-Fi ther-mostat. I signed up to receive LED light bulbs to turn every bulb in it to LED. We updated appliances to be Energy Star-rated, which made them eligible for rebates. Were looking at adding insula-tion to the attic and the crawl space and at installing solar panels.

Q: What about outside your home?A: We have a little person (toddler son Dylan) to tote around, but we still have a fairly compact footprint. We have six bikes to our two cars.

Q: Will you share any of your favorite spots to fish? A: Fishing for brown trout in the Lewis Channel in Yellowstone in the fall. It is quiet and isolated. INTERVIEW BY MARK HUFFMAN

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Mickey BabcockMICKEY BABCOCK WAS a self-professed princess the first time she came to Jack-son Hole. It was 1983, and her trip here marked her first time sleeping in a tent and her first time backpacking. It was two weeks of hell, and I couldnt wait to come back, says Babcock, sixty-three. I came out here expecting to be treated like a prin-cess and this land doesnt do that. Trip leader Lucius Burch Jr., who was a leading civil rights lawyer in Memphis, Tennessee, when not introducing friends to the wild, didnt mince words explaining to Babcock how things were out here: Mother Nature doesnt give a rats ass who you are. Babcock hasnt missed a summer in the valley since and moved here full-time in 2004. She relocated with seed money saved from selling her Memphis interior design business, and her plan was to found a new busi-ness here. Fast-forwarding to the present, there is no shortage of designers working in the valley, though Babcock is not one of them. Her seed money instead went to philanthropy. Instead of starting another business, I decided Id start a foundation, she says. Babcocks Equipoise Fund works to energize the vision, voice, and visibility of the women and girls of Wyoming.

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Q: What is the essence of you that your first trip here revealed?A: Earthy, salty, compassionate. Committed. There are the things that you think you are, but this place makes you really face who you are.

Q: Why direct some of your commitment toward girls and women?A: Ive always been drawn to the underdog.

Q: Were you ever an underdog for reasons other than being female?A: Yes, I was bullied in elementary school and the first year of junior high.

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I just never really fit in but tried hard to be one of the cool girls. Those early experiences, coupled with the ethic of my grandparentsall four of them were immigrants from Polandto give fostered my own giving ethic.

Q: Growing up with this ethic you still considered yourself a princess?A: I perceive of my self in Memphis as a princess, as I lived a very privileged life. I had a thriving design practice and had a lovely home. I might have finally made it as a cool girl. And I took much of this privileged lifestyle for granted.

Q: Equipoise focuses on getting programs and groups out on their own. Why do that instead of holding onto them?A: For the first two years of Equipoise, we didnt do any funding. I traveled the state doing listening tours and meeting with folks who had roots serving women. I learned there were groups out there doing good work, but there wasnt a connection, no binder. It seemed the thing to do was to help jump-start the binding. Part of Equipoises niche is to listen to good ideas and see what we can do to get them going and then let them fly on their own.

Q: When do you know an idea is ready to fly on its own?A: Theres no formula, but its apparent when the time comes.

Q: Whats left in Equipoises house?A: Weve fledged all of our chicks except for the Wyoming Womens Legislative Caucus. Were positioning it to spin off on its own by 2017.

Q: Are you looking for new programs?A: Im at a place where I need to think about what Equipoise looks like going forward. I recently realized that what Equipoise set out to do, it has happened. The landscape that I traveled when doing the listening tours has changed. Now I need to understand what the new landscape looks like and understand what I need to do to serve that new landscape.

Q: Advice for aspiring philanthropists?A: Philanthropy doesnt have to be money; it can be about energy.INTERVIEW BY LILA EDYTHE

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Q: Whats your earliest musical memory? A: The first song I remember hearing was Free Fallin by Tom Petty. I was three years old.

Q: Why the clarinet? A: I chose it in sixth grade. I wanted to play sax because its a supercool instru-ment, but everyone wanted to play sax. So I bit the bullet, and I learned I was pretty OK at learning it. I really, really liked playing. But Ive never been a fan of classical music.

Q: What do you like? A: I like anything but country and really lewd rap. I like rock.

Sophia AndrikopoulosSOPHIA ANDRIKOPOULOS IS a fifth-generation Wyoming gal with Cuban roots whos just as comfortable wrangling cattle at her fathers family ranch in Daniel as she is baking in her grandmothers Miami kitchen or designing a wire mesh bench. (Her bench design, which she fabricated in the Jackson Hole High School Digital Fabrica-tion Lab, or FabLab, won a contest held by the local nonprofit Vertical Harvest.) Two years ago, her parents had a custom, prefabricated home delivered to East Jackson; a crew assembled it in six hours. Sophia videotaped it. Now shes all moved into her bedroom, where her sophisticated, urban style is evident in clean lines and a muted color palette. But the Pearl Jam poster taped to the wall, the clothesline of Polaroid pictures, and the article about the high school drama club getting busted for posses-sion of marijuana over her desk give away her age: sixteen.

A self-described nerd, Sophia loves speech and debate and playing clarinet. Last year, her musical talent landed her a spot at the All-State Band competition in Ha-waii. This year, she barely has time to practice.

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Q: Where do you play besides the usual high school band?A: I play sometimes with the [Jackson Hole] Community Band. Its superfun to play with a talented group of mostly adults. We tried to have a marching band in high school, but it didnt hap-pen. We did parades around Wyoming all summer.

Q: Met any famous musicians?A: Michael Franti at [Grand] Targhee and Sara Bareilles. That was really cool. And I met Gregory Raden [first clarinet in the Dallas Symphony Orchestra] at the Grand Teton Music Festival, where I was in the mentorship program. I got to eat lunch with him and see him play Mozart. Hes such a nice guy.

Q: Are you a band nerd? A: Im not a nerd because Im in band. Im just a nerd because I am one.

Q: What about life outside of music?A: Its my third year doing speech and debate. Im the captain this year. There are new debate topics chosen every month. I like original oratory, drama, and humor. I love making people laugh even if Im the most strange, most sa-distic, dark-humored person I know.

Q: Binges of dark stuff on Netflix?A: Im watching Twin Peaks with my mom, and shes cheating on me. But its OK; Im cheating on her, too.

Q: Plans past high school?A: Im thinking about what Id like to do in college: be a product designer. Growing up in Jackson Ive really appreciated beauty, but Im a math person. Ive always been drawn to functionalism, too. Design is a happy medium. I need things to be func-tional and pretty. I really, really like the clash between nature and a cold, modern aesthetic.

Q: And you like baking? A: I make these cookies, alfajores. They are shortbready, citrusy cookies with dulce de leche sandwiched between. My mom makes a lot of Cuban food. I get Cuban culture definitely through food and whenever I speak Spanish. INTERVIEW BY JULIE KLING


on the jobJHLiving

Baking BagelsPearl Street Bagels doesnt toast their bagels because a crew of bakers makes them fresh all day long.

BY ELIZABETH HOCHREINPHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID STUBBS

THE SMELL IS intense. Make that Intense. Capital I. If the beginning of life had a smell, it would be like the one wafting in the kitchen of the downtown Pearl Street Bagels locationa mix-ture of moisture, yeast, and malt that is primordially fertile. Walking into this kitchen is like walking into a loaf of fresh bread. In addition to the smell, the small space is hot, anywhere from 80 degrees to 90-something, depending on the sea-son. Even when its zero degrees outside, opening the back door can only do so much against a 400-degree oven.

Seven days a week, 363 days of the year, two to three bakers at a time work together here to churn out between six hundred (winter) and nine hundred (summer) bagels a day. One comes in at 4:30 a.m. to bake the first four batches of bagels that baristas sell starting at 6:30, when the shop opens. The second shift, a prep shift, starts at a relatively more reasonable time, between 7 and 8 a.m. When asked about what hap-pens if the employee on the bake shift oversleeps, Ryan Coleman, who worked as a baker until last September, said, I dont know of anyone ever missing their bake shift. Ive come in still stum-bling around from the night before, but Ive come in. When Im on a bake shift, I try to get to bed at ten oclock the night before, but that rarely actually happens. Something often ends up keeping me from sleeping.

Maggie and Les Gibson founded Pearl Street Bagels (PSB) in 1990. While in col-

lege in Burlington, Vermont, Maggie was introduced to real bagels and learned how to make them. After several years in Jackson Hole, she began

missing bagels enough that she decided to make them herself. Pearl Street Bagels was an instant hit. In 1996, the couple opened an outpost in Wilson. For eight- een years, Maggie and/or Les could be found in one of the two locations most every day. And then it was time for them to move on.

Matt Berube prepares racks of boiled bagels for baking at Pearl Street Bagels town location.


In 2008, three PSB employeesBrevan Daniel (kitchen manager), Polly Danz (Wilson manager), and Heather Gould (office manager) purchased the business. (As of last September, Danz and Gould bought Daniel out.) Aside from Maggie and Les no longer being around, customers noticed little differ-ence after the sale. Pearl Street Bagels still made the best bagels in the valley, was a great space for aspiring local art-ists to show their work, had some of the friendliest baristas around, and refused to toast bagels, instead baking them fresh throughout the morning.

WHEN MATT BERUBE comes in at 4:30 a.m. for the bake shift, his responsi-bilities include the first bake, making the first round of breakfast sandwiches, and baking all of the cookies.

Walking into the kitchen, Berube, whos been baking bagels for two and a half years and is also now the assistant

kitchen manager, finds the kettle and oven hot and nearly ready to go; both are on a timer. Also ready is the bagel dough, which has already been formed, put on racks, and stored overnight in the refrigerator. Berube gets to boil-ing, the first step. All true bagels are boiled for a couple of minutes before being baked. If a bagel is not boiled, it will be dull in appearance, Gould says. Unboiled bagels are also chewier all the way through and lack the satis-fying crunch of a boiled bagels outer shell. I believe most people would say that boiling a bagel before baking it is what makes it a real bagel, Gould says. This is definitely how they do it in New York City, and New York bagels are still the gold standard to which all oth-ers are compared.

PSBs kettle has the capacity to boil a couple hundred bagels at a time; it holds seventy-five gallons of water. A petite adult woman could easily stand in it.

But, because only seventy-two bagels at a time fit onto the boards that then go into the oven, only seventy-two bagels are boiled at a time. This is the step where a lot of the artistry comes into the baking process, Gould says. The bakers get to know how different dough reacts, when it is new versus older, over- or under-proofed, or any number of other varia-tions between batches. Theyll see whats up and adjust the boiling and then the baking times accordingly.

Berube rescues the bagels, cheerfully bobbing in the roiling boil, from the kettle with a giant perforated scoop and efficiently lines them up on a burlap-covered board. The board then goes into the 400-degree oven. They are baked for about five minutes before Berube flips them off the board and onto the open oven shelves. The boiled dough needs to

Ryan Coleman dices onions during his prep shift at Pearl Street Bagels town location.


be started on boards so the outside of the bagels can harden just a bit. Otherwise, the dough would stick to the oven shelf. Once flipped, the bagels rotate on the shelves for another ten minutes or so. After that, they are ready to servescooped into wire bins and brought to the front of the house, where the line of customers stretches out the front door. The most popular flavors at PSB are everything, cinnamon raisin, and plain. Depending on how busy we are, when Im baking, Im usually out of here at one oclock or two. Sometimes three oclock, if were really busy, Berube says. Thats one of the perks of the job. You get your work done and have afternoons free.

THATS JUST THE bagel baking. You have to have dough to bake. In the win-ter, bakers make dough three days a week. In summer, its four days a week. The downtown location makes the bagel dough for the Wilson location as well, but all of the bagels sold in Wilson are baked and boiled there.

The mixer is as big as the kettle. Each batch of dough includes one hundred pounds of flour, malt, salt, and yeast and about twenty pounds of water. This makes enough dough for six hundred bagels, which fills one rack. In the winter, the goal is to make four racks on each dough-mak-ing day. Once the dough is mixed, it goes into the bagel

any glitches that arise. It is high-stakes. Since were a bagel shop, having bagels is pretty basic! A new bagel machine was bought several years ago, but it came with new and different issues, Gould says. It took some getting used to, but the bakers are able to troubleshoot any issues that arise really well now. All three of the current bakersBerube, newbie Nelson Jones, and Bob Sanders, a baker for fifteen years and also the kitchen managerare comfortable tin-kering with the machine, but Gould says Sanders is the bagel machine whisperer.

After being formed, trays of raw bagels go into the proofer for about ten minutes. In here, the dough rises. Once done in the proofer, they go into the chilled storage area until tomorrow mornings baker comes in. The dough we make today is for tomorrow and the day after, Berube explains. Dough can last longer, but we can only make as much as we have room to store, and thats not that much.

Once it becomes apparent to me that Coleman isnt going to miss a bagel coming down the bagel machines tread-millresulting in a bagel version of the famous I Love Lucy chocolate fac-tory sceneI decide Id rather enjoy a bagel out front than stand beside him for the twenty-some minutes it takes to fill a rack. Since Pearl Street doesnt toast bagels, I go with what is freshest. The sesame bagels arent merely fresh but still hot. The barista slices one in half and then half again. Steam rises when she pulls the halves apart, proving that fresh is indeed better than toasted. JH

machine. Technically, its called an automatic divider/former; we just call it the bagel machine, though, Gould says. This machine does what its name suggests: it forms blobs of dough into bagels, each perfectly round with a small hole in the center. It does this at the rate of thirty bagels a minute. Catching them is mindless, but you have to be on it, Coleman says.

The bagel machine has to be on it, too. When we bought the business, we were using the original machine that Les and Maggie had bought used in 1990, Gould says. It had developed lots of issues, which made dough days very stressful. There arent many people around here who work on them, so our bakers have figured out how to solve

Pearl Street Bagels mixes all of the flavored cream cheesesMexican, honey walnut, fresh herb, and berryit serves in-house.

Three bakers (from left), Berube, Coleman, and Rob Denton take a break last summer outside the downtown location.


JHLiving business

THE JOKE USED to be that flights from Salt Lake City to Jackson Hole were shorter than the wait at the baggage claim once you arrived. The flights, run by Delta/SkyWest, take about thirty-five minutes and, along with Denver, account for most daily arrivals at the Jackson Hole Airport (JAC).

While the anecdote was not necessarily accurate, the underlying message was clear: people needed to get their luggage quicker. Its part of the customer experience, says Jim Elwood, director of the Jackson Hole Airport. It needed additional ability to handle the number of people using the airport.

That was the reasoning behind the airports $21 million terminal overhaul and baggage claim expansion. The new

baggage wing, which opened in December 2014 after more than a year of construction, includes four luggage belts; pre-expansion, there were just two. Because the airport might have some of the best views of any in the United Statesit is the countrys only airport inside a national parkthe overhaul also added panoramic windows that offer sweeping vistas of the Teton Range, from Mount Glory in the south all the way north to the Grand Teton and beyond. The departure area has contemporary

Airport Helps Jackson Hole SoarThe valleys economy would be very different if it werent for our newly

remodeled and expanded airport. It doesnt hurt that its one of the most beautiful in the country, inside and out.

BY BEN GRAHAM

Visitors flying into Jackson Hole are greeted not only by views of the Tetons, but also by a slew of recent airport improvements, including a renovated terminal and a baggage claim expansion.

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furniture, from armchairs upholstered in raw cowhide to sleek leather sofas, and also a two-sided gas fireplace. The main terminal includes oversize artwork by Richard Painter. Elsewhere in the terminal are pieces by Z.S. Liang and Nelson Boren, both nationally renowned artists represented by galleries in Jackson. Elwood is particularly fond of Borens painting of a moose calf seated amidst a row of cowboy boots. The eyes follow you as you walk, he says. Its like the Mona Lisa of moose.

The baggage and terminal projects are the main components of a series of expansions that have transformed this once-

dusty air strip into a travel hub that is now not only the most beautiful airport in Wyoming but also the busiest airport in the statethe Jackson Hole Airport accounts for more than half of all the states commercial airline activity.

Over the last six years, $28.6 million was spent on projects that included new airline ticket counters and outbound baggage facilities, runway improvements ($5 million), and the installation of new runway lights ($3 million). There was also $6 million invested in infrastructure that allows the airport to capture glycol, which is used to de-ice planes, before it runs off

the tarmac and seeps into the ground.The investments in the airport have

bolstered its standing, making it more appealing to airlines and passengers alike. Over the last several years, the number of cities with nonstop flights to Jackson Hole has doubled. During the ski season, there are direct flights to/from thirteen airports: Salt Lake City, Denver, Chicago, Los Angeles, Dallas/Fort Worth, JFK, Newark, Atlanta, Seattle, Minneapolis, Washington Dulles, Houston, and San Francisco. Jackson Hole is now the No. 1 ski resort for access in the Rockies.

THE INCREASE IN flights isnt only the result of airport improvements. It is, in fact, mostly due to Jackson Hole Air Improvement Resources (JH AIR). This

How Grand Teton National Park Ended Up with an AirportTHE TOWN BUILT the Jackson Hole Airport at its present location in the 1930s, before the land it sits on was part of Grand Teton National Park. And by built we mean it was an unpaved landing strip. Commercial air serviceWestern Airlines flew DC-3 propeller aircraft into the valleybegan in the early 1940s. Planes landed on the simple, short dirt runway until 1959, when a 6,300-foot runway was built. (By this time, the land the airport was on was part of the park; the airport got a lease on it that ran through 1995.) By the late 1960s, the town and county formed a joint board to oversee the airports operations; this board still runs things today.

In the late 1970s, the National Park Service (NPS) announced that the airport would close when its lease ended in 1995. This was great news to the valley residents who viewed it as an intrusion on park values. But under James Watt, a Wyoming native and Secretary of the Interior for the Reagan administration, the Federal Aviation Administration was strengthened while the NPS control over the airport was weakened. Instead of being relocated, the airport signed a new lease that extends well into the twenty-first century.


Richard Painters 5 x 30 charred wood and pastel piece, Final View, dominates Jackson Hole Airports main terminal.

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nonprofit organization uses money from valley businessesmost often those that rely on tourist dollarsand government money to provide minimum-revenue guarantees for airlines.

Additional winter flights have proven to be a boon for businesses beyond the obvious one, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (JHMR). Oh god, its huge, says Scott Sanchez, store manager at JD High Country Outfitters, which sells outdoor gear for sports from hunting and fishing to skiing at its shop on

the Town Square. Direct flights work, he says. More frequent and direct flights allow people to jet in for just a long weekend, which wasnt always so easy. There are a lot of people you talk to who are basically coming from the hubs, Sanchez says. A lot of people come for a few days, which wasnt really an option when it took a whole day to get here. Its not cheap to get in here, but [now] its easy.

The most recent JH AIR Jackson Hole Airport Passenger Survey, from the winter of 2014-15, found that the option of flying direct played a large role in visitors decisions to come to Jackson Hole. Asked to rate the importance of nonstop flights on a scale of 1 to 10, passengers on average gave it an 8. Slightly more than half of passengers rated it a 9 or 10.

All of the investment and planning has helped the airport power Jackson Holes economy, although Elwood says he prefers to think of it as an economic responder rather than an economic engine. What were doing is simply giving a portal for people to arrive and depart from this community, he says. This includes locals. As recently as ten years ago, locals looking for a break from winter had a difficult time flying out because of both the fewer number of daily flights and the number of connections required. In summer, when flights have always been more frequent, it could be difficult for locals to find a seat

at a reasonable price (although the argument could be made that its still difficult to find an inexpensive seat). Today, For those of us who want to get out of here sometime in the winter, the more and better flights are important, says Jerry Blann, the president of JHMR and one of the five members of the Jackson Hole Airport Board, which governs the airport.

Passenger numbers were actually down slightly this past summer (only by 1 percent, though) when compared with

the year before, but traffic in general is up. Jackson Hole Airport saw its busiest year on record in 2014, when more than 313,000 visitors arrived/departed on commercial jets. That was a 2.5 percent increase over the previous record306,000 passengersset in 2008. That [2014] was a record passenger year for the airport and, in recent years, the growth has been occurring in winter travel, Elwood says.

Each of those new visitors spends money at valley hotels and shops. During the summer of 2014, tourists who came to Jackson Hole through the airport spent an average of $254 each day, according to the passenger survey in which departing passengers self-report their activities while visiting the valley. Air

passengers pumped an estimated total of $269 million into the valleys economy that summer. The winter of 2013-14, the average spent per day was $326, for a total of $130 million that season.

THE JACKSON HOLE Airport Board is under the purview of the Jackson Town Council and the Teton County Board of Commissioners. Politicians appoint community members who serve as volunteers. It is this board that hired Elwood, who has been the airports director since September 2014. (Previously, Elwood was the director of the Aspen/Pitkin County Airport in Colorado.) JHMR president Blann is the longest-serving member in the boards history. There is no official limit on

the number of terms a member can serve, but traditionally members move on after two terms. Last year, local government appointed Blann to a fourth consecutive term. A recent study showed that 85 percent of winter visitors83 percent of whom ski at least one day at JHMRarrive by air. The summer is still more than half of the total passenger activity of the year, Elwood says. But summer numbers have been relatively flat since 2008. Summer has been a relatively mature market at the airport; theres room for growth in the winter market, though, and thats a beautiful time to visit the area. We want to help people get here. JH

During the ski season, there are direct flights to/from thirteen airports: Salt Lake City, Denver, Chicago, Los Angeles, Dallas/Fort Worth, JFK, Newark, Atlanta, Seattle, Minneapolis, Washington Dulles, Houston, and San Francisco.

Not all of the upgrades are obvious; $6 million was spent on a system that captures de-icing fluid before it seeps into the ground. STE

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designJHLiving

Classic LodgeSome things never go out of style.

BY JOOHEE MUROMCEWPHOTOGRAPHY BY BRADLY J. BONER

THOMAS MOLESWORTH WAS a small-time furniture maker based in Cody when publishing magnate Moses Annenberg commissioned him to design and build the furniture forand also to decoratehis luxury Wyoming hunting retreat, Ranch A. Molesworth created 245 pieces of furniture for the main lodge and associated guest cabins, and brought in Native American arti-facts, taxidermy, and artwork as interior accents. (Annenbergs main interest in the area was hunting.) That was 1932.

Today, Ranch A, which is in Beulah, Wyoming, near the states border with South Dakota, is on the National Register of Historic Places, and at downtown Jacksons Fighting Bear Antiquesone of the countrys experts on Molesworthyou can buy a Molesworth chair for several thousand dollars.

Designed by South Dakota architect Ray Ewing and built from locally cut and milled wood by Finnish craftsmen, Ranch As write-up on the National Register states its log structures are


some of the finest architect-designed buildings in Wyoming. As remarkable as Ranch As log buildings are, the retreat was perhaps most important for its Molesworth furnishings and interiors. Educated at the Art Institute of Chicago, Molesworths work melded elements of the Arts and Crafts movement with local materials like horns, natural wood, and hides. Today, his style is called Cowboy High Style. After Ranch A, his Shoshone

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No lodge can be called classic without an oversize river-rock fireplace. Leather furniture and Navajo textiles help, too.


Furniture Company went on to do the interiors of Codys TE Ranch; the Plains Hotel in Cheyenne; Jacksons own Wort Hotel; the Pendleton Hotel in Pendleton, Oregon; Elko, Nevadas Stockmens Hotel; Rawlins Ferris Hotel; and the Northern Hotel in Billings, Montana. President Dwight D. Eisenhowers home in Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, even had some Molesworth pieces in it.

MOLESWORTHS HEYDAY WAS dur-ing the second iteration of rustic arts, according to Ralph Kylloe, the author of The Rustic Home, Rustic Elegance, The Log Home Book, and ten other books. Kylloe says the original rustic aesthetic in this country was the Great Camp period, in the early 1900s. New Yorkers and Philadelphians escaping the grime and heat of a city summer retreated to modest, simply built cabins in the Adirondacks.

Molesworth and the other design-ers, craftsmen, and architects that cre-ated cowboy rustic started in the 1920s. (Molesworths furniture company was in business until 1961.) Even though it was happening in the West, wealthy east-erners again fueled this second take on rustic. Theyd often visit dude ranches in the Rocky Mountains, see cowboy style, and, inspired, build lavish summer homes in the area in the same fashion, which included river-rock chimneys and rough-hewn lodgepole pine walls. These details and materials werent so

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much choices, but necessity: Wyoming was still very much the Wild West, and river rocks and logs were the materials in most abundant supply.

Kylloe says a third iteration of rus-ticthe one he also says were still mostly instarted in the early 1990s. Even though he was deceased for more than a decade at that point, Molesworth influenced it. Terry Winchell, co-owner of Fighting Bear Antiques with his wife, Claudia, says it was a 1989 exhibi-tion, Interior West: The Craft & Style of Thomas Molesworth, at Codys Buffalo Bill Historical Center that brought about a renewed interest in the rustic lodge look. (After closing at the BBHC, the Molesworth exhibit moved to the Autry National Center in Los Angeles.) The West was reintroduced to this iconic architect of western vernacular design in this exhibit, Winchell says.

LOOKING AROUND JACKSON Hole today, it could be argued that the rus-tic look is now in its fourth phase. The sensibilities that gave rise to such grand lodges like Ranch A have been redefined and refined for contemporary tastes. The

Contemporary kitchen meets classic lodge with stainless steel appliances and lodgepole ceiling beams.


design elements remain traditionalreclaimed wood, antler and horn details, and animal hide finishesbut are now cast in a contemporary light. Still, they express the original aesthet-ics of those early dude ranch owners: homes that are relaxed, comfortable, at peace in their natural surroundings, and rely heavily on local craftsmen.

Jackson designer Nanette Matteis project for one fam-ily (from the West Coast but with fond attachment to Maine) speaks of classic western lodge style with a lighter eye. The own-ers desired a hunters lodge feel with all the conveniences of modern living. Details like custom willow chairs and a basket woven by a Native American artist add a highly personal feel and story to the home.

Irene and Alan Lunds Jackson home could almost be a sec-ond-phase lodge home but, owing to oversize picture windows, living spaces are awash with light. (First- and second-genera-tion rustic lodges are often dark inside because the materials and engineering didnt exist to do large windows.) Also, there is a river-rock fireplace, but it has a steel inset. The staircase is lodgepole but, unburdened by a banister or balustrade, is open and airy, lightening the weight of the kitchen space. An arm-chair upholstered in wool plaid and the rough-hewn mantel would be right at home at Ranch A, though. JH

Top: A cozy nook in a bedroom presents a modern girls vision of lodge decor. The lasso and bridle are decor

jackson hole magazine winter 2016

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