josÉe di stasio the great comeback -...

45 NEW PRODUCTS IN STORES SEPTEMBER 29, OCTOBER 13 AND OCTOBER 27

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JOSÉE DI STASIOTHE GREAT COMEBACK

Josée di Stasio at Pizzeria No. 900 in Outremont

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IN STORES

SEPTEMBER 29, OCTOBER 13 AND 2745 products to discover.

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JOSÉE DI STASIOThe great comeback.

GRAPE VARIETIESA world of choices.

FINE SPIRITSGin cocktails and Scotch whiskies.

ORIGINE QUÉBECRivière du Chêne Winery.

NEW ARRIVALSDetails on our specially selected new releases.

ON THE COVER Josée di Stasio, seen here at Pizzeria No. 900 in Outremont, appreciates the constantly evolving variety of pizza styles in Montreal.

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THE GREAT COMEBACKJosée di Stasio

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Josée di Stasio remembers the origin of L’Express. “At the time, the incredible wine menu was all the talk.” Today, this Saint-Denis Street institution is a sure bet. “With the turnover so high in Montreal, this restaurant is a survivor. You’ll still find the same level of service and quality of meals. And I adore its timeless appeal. At lunchtime, I often order the lentils and octopus, or the salmon. I really like the takeout menu as well, which is always seasonal. I must admit that in the evening, I’ll first order fries and then figure out what I want with them!”

osée di Stasio doesn’t run to new restaurants or opening nights. Although solidly anchored in the urban arena, she doesn’t frequent hot spots or have reserved seating at starred restaurants.

And while her name is a measure of quality within the cooking and gastronomic worlds, her Italian surname doesn’t appear on cutlery or cookware or any other culinary tools. Josée di Stasio is an unassuming woman.

Her same modesty reigns in her home, in the heart of the city. No large yard, no vegetable garden, no wine cellar. Inside kitchen cabinets, you’ll find lots of mismatched bowls. “I have some that come from flea markets,” she says. It’s a far cry from signature tableware. Outside on the terrace, there are a few containers of herbs – which she calls “fragrances” . “I don’t have much room on my terrace, and since I share that space with a squirrel, there’s no way I can grow tomatoes.”

If di Stasio did grow her own vegetables, she would never have to visit the market again. But she loves making those personal connections. “My route is usually designed around where I have to be. In Montreal, I have regular stops in different neighbourhoods. If I’m heading to Val-David to meet friends, I’ll do my shopping there. If I’m going for coffee in Little Burgundy, I’ll hop over to the Atwater Market. But my local market is Jean-Talon. Sometimes I worry that it would somehow change… but if not, I’m sticking with it. I want variety and product traceability.”

Back on television following a two-year hiatus, she continues to support local cuisine, to be interested in people and to depend on her instinct when it comes to pairing wine.

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Anchored in her city, this urbanite has explored other cities around the world. “My love of the city doesn’t mean I’m a fan of concrete and impersonal relationships. Quite the opposite: I love a ‘green’ city, and I love local businesses. A large city is also several small neighbourhoods. That’s how I like to approach Montreal.”

SET IN MOTIONThis impassioned supporter of fresh and colourful has done a lot for markets, and for those who sell their products. By the 2000s, di Stasio was part of the general movement that helped wake consumers up to the importance of buying local, to know where their products came from and to know how their foods were produced, in order to make clear choices. On the television shows Ciel! Mon Pinard and Les Pieds Dans Les Plats, she worked alongside Daniel Pinard, who took a social rather than a culinary approach. “With Daniel, recipes were the pretext to speaking about local producers. He proposed cooking based on the season and what was available at the local market. And he simplified complicated recipes to make them more accessible. He would consider and analyze recipes, adapt them and explain often-complex methods with confidence, spirit and lots of humour. People became fans of his style.”

Pinard wasn’t the first to take an interest in local produce and seasonality, but television offered him a novel timeslot. “When Daniel came on air in the early evening, audiences watched with a glass of wine in

hand. That changed everything! The message was heard by more men, more workers, more young people, by couples who wanted to cook together, and by parents who wanted to get their children involved. Viewers went along to the Bas-du-Fleuve to meet a lamb producer, to Iles-de-la-Madeleine to visit a cheesemaker. They followed hundreds of episodes, read magazines, blogs and cookbooks. It was more than just a fad or fashion, it became a movement.”

For her own series, A la di Stasio, which debuted in 2002, she would turn the spotlight on artisanal bakers, cheesemakers, charcutiers, butchers and winemakers from places she frequented. Her playing fields were Spain, the North American west coast and, of course, Quebec and the Italy of her roots. “My di Stasio grandparents never saw the episodes I shot in Naples – their birthplace. My grandfather was a shepherd. He came to America with his accordion. My grandparents would have been very proud to see their granddaughter grow up to be an Italophile.”

THE GREAT COMEBACK (CONTINUED)

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Travelling may have opened di Stasio’s eyes to local products, but her family life is what forged her approach to cooking. She started cooking with her grandmother Guévin, an infinitely curious, carefree and fun Quebecoise. “With her, it was all a game. I could get dirty, experiment, have fun. Nothing was taken too seriously. Everything was based on the senses. My sensory pleasure comes from her.”

THE REAL DEALDeveloping pride in one’s roots, in one’s history, is what di Stasio has always wanted to explore. “In my eyes, that’s the art of living. Whether we evolve in a family or on our own, whether we’re rich or poor, whether we live in the country or the city, the art of living is different for everyone. But being proud of putting our own food on the table, that’s universal. When we can eat pasta with vegetables that we actually grow – that will always be fantastic!”

But she feels the need to explain a bit more. “I don’t want to be known as the woman who does it all herself and never goes out! On the contrary, I love the terraces, cafés and restaurants in my city, but I prefer to go when it’s quiet and when I can take the time to appreciate things. I take note of the places people recommend. But I go at my own pace. I highly admire our local young chefs. We’re benefiting from wonderful creativity here in Quebec. Sometimes, I invite chefs from elsewhere to come with me to my favourite spots, and they are impressed. With reason! There is a whole generation of bright, brave, courageous, inventive chefs out there who bring a wonderful energy to the city. When they do good work, you can taste it right away. Those are the chefs I want to support. They inspire me.”

And yet, di Stasio has no problem saying that her most memorable gastronomic memories have nothing to do

with starred establishments. “A restaurant featuring fresh and well-incorporated ingredients, a small neighbourhood bistro – they may never have the grandeur of large establishments, but we don’t always need that to be impressed.”

It was some time ago, while backpacking as a student, that she was struck by the taste of an incredibly ripe fig in a market. And she still talks about eating a white peach in Greece, after which she was forced to shower because it was so juicy. “That’s what I mean when I talk about appreciation. My most memorable moments are of people in a simple gathering, around fresh ingredients.” Like the famous rosemary chicken (see our recipe, page 14) she had in Tuscany – a moving experience. “It was in the countryside. Near the house was an immense rosemary hedge. In my life, I had only ever seen rosemary in flowerpots. These Italians pruned the hedge, threw some in the fire, and brushed the chicken with oil and rosemary while cooking. We drank local wine, naturally. But local wine in Tuscany… it’s unbelievable! The whole experience is an unforgettable aromatic memory. It’s a major lesson to me: Drink and eat what grows around you. Instinctively, what comes from the same soil, from the same climate, pairs perfectly.”

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“This is my favourite time of day. When we have cocktails, we don’t expect a five-course meal. It’s the end of the afternoon and we just need to relax. At home, drinks happen at the kitchen counter, very laid-back. I don’t worry, but I always have a Plan B for cocktail hours that linger on into the night.”


GOING ON INSTINCTWhen discussing wine, di Stasio feels she’s out of her league. Her humility serves her well. Like with cooking, the person who has no schooling in the matter takes more of an interest in the product and the artisan. “Conviviality around a bottle of wine gets me more animated than the vocabulary. For me, the experience on the palate takes precedence over the rest. There’s nothing intellectual about my love of wine. For me, wine is just part of the expression ‘good times, good people, good wine.’”

She is, however, very sensitive when it comes to food-wine pairings. “As I don’t have any expertise, I would say I go on instinct. I rely on my senses. Based on what I’ve cooked, my palate wants to drink something rounder, fatter, more floral, more mineral. Otherwise, I haven’t any rules. I work with conviviality, with pleasure and with what my senses tell me.”

But she has had some great periods of discovery. “For example, there was a time when I swore by white Burgundy, when I would read up on it, stay in

8 Autumn 2016


DI STASIO ON TÉLÉ-QUÉBEC Friday evenings at 8 pm, on Télé-Québec, di Stasio presents recipes, of course, but the show is designed to be, above all, a documentary approach to exploring the art of living in all its variations. “We go out and meet people. I want to present inspiring people in their own milieu. We travel across the city, but we go outside the city as well. We go where inspiration takes us. We have interesting encounters with authors or chefs. I dig through their dishware, I’m interested in how they live. As always, the meeting itself takes precedence.” A theme is developed on each episode. “If we find ourselves in an Italian’s home – in their garden – it’s to impart techniques and culinary know-how. But it’s also to see how they thrive at home, how they adapt and change in their own surroundings.”

The classic: A picnic by Beaver Lake… di Stasio considers herself to be lucky having Mount Royal close by and in view. “I go for a walk there regularly – it’s fantastic all year round. It’s ‘our’ mountain, and it’s important to me that this space remains green and accessible to everyone.”

the know, taste, compare. But I could never stay faithful! My friends would come along, serve a great Sancerre…and I would completely stray from my tried and true!” She laughs. “It’s like with wine colour: I’ve always preferred white wines. But, slowly, I’m learning about reds. Certain vins de soif completely seduce me. That’s the point I’m at now. Usually my friends take care of the wine: Whatever they suggest, I drink! That said, if I really have to choose, I still turn to Burgundy.” She pauses, then adds with a laugh: “Although, there’s always a Tuscan…”

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Josée, with your Italian-Quebecois roots, you have everything you need to make the best pizza in town, right?What I make isn’t a real pizza. It’s a pizzetta! I use pita, or any other kind of flatbread, and add my own toppings, especially vegetables, with Italian cheeses, feta, or chèvre…depending on what I find in the fridge and what season it is. It makes for interesting lunches. During the summer and fall when it’s nice out, I’ll even make pizza on the barbecue. I really enjoy that burnt taste. I sometimes cut it into squares to serve during cocktails. Believe me, it makes for lengthy cocktail hours.

And for more traditional pizza? It requires the right oven, because real pizza needs a very high cooking temperature and very little time: 90 seconds. Homes aren’t equipped for this.

You prefer going to a pizzeria? It’s important to have a reason to dine out! It’s nice to go and eat something you can’t make at home. And it’s festive to share a pizza with friends. It’s popular, accessible, a meal that can easily be shared, and depending on the occasion, it can be eaten with your hands! What’s simpler than that?

PIZZA: A CULINARY QUESTIONNAIRE

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1. Bottega Pizzeria, 65 Saint-Zotique East, Montreal

2. Pizzeria Gema, 6827 Saint-Dominique, Montreal

3. Restaurant Moleskin, 3412 Park Avenue, Montreal

4. Pizzeria No. 900, 1248 Bernard Avenue West, Montreal

And for wine? I think the food-wine pairing for pizza is one of the easiest. There are so many toppings! Depending on the season, the time of day and the type of pizza, you can go with white or red, light or full-bodied. Pairing is flexible when it comes to pizza, allowing for more than one possibility, which is practical when you get together with friends who all bring different wines.

Do you have a favourite pizza place in the city? I really like Bottega on Saint-Zotique for Neapolitan pizza. The brothers who own it have also opened San Gennaro, a café that serves Roman pizza on large square tin plates – easily consumed at lunchtime. Fabrizio, the Covone family pizzaiolo, did an internship in Naples for Bottega. He also completed a training program in Rome before opening San Gennaro Café. These are two very different styles of pizza they offer.

Do you have any favourite spots in Little Italy? I really like the pizza made by Stefano (Faita), the one they serve at Gema. It’s different, with non-traditional toppings. Elsewhere in the city, in Outremont, I like 900. The cooking is always impeccable. I equally enjoy the fare from their food truck. This team really does good work. Friends of mine talk about Pizzeria Geppetto, in Little Burgundy, and Caldo, in the Angus Shop district of Rosemont. Finally, I met up with someone at Moleskin on Parc Avenue. I had already eaten, so I just had the last slice. It was delicious! The team behind Pullman (the two co-owners and the sommelier) along with Fred St-Aubin, the former chef of Club 357c, are behind it. I have every intention of going back. These last few years, the pizzeria offerings in Montreal have become really interesting. And you have to take advantage.

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ZUCCHINI-AND- FETA BALLSRecipe by Josée di Stasio

INGREDIENTS

450 g (1 lb) grated green zucchini (3 to 4 zucchini)

2 mL (1/2 tsp) salt

60 mL (1/4 cup) fresh mint, chopped

3 green onions, finely chopped

1 egg

30 mL (2 tbsp) grated Parmesan

125 mL (1/2 cup) finely crumbled feta

125 mL (1/2 cup) Panko bread crumbs

1 pinch hot pepper

2 mL (1/4 tsp) each salt and pepper


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A wine with a Mediterranean spirit is just the match for the feta cheese in this recipe. These canapés, with their creamy texture, maintain a characteristic liveliness of mint and feta. Meanwhile, the wine expresses the aromatic purity of the Verdelho grape, an indigenous varietal from Portugal. Citrus accents are quite present and marry well with the saltiness of the dish.

Planted in the Alentejo region of Portugal, in the southern part of the country, the grape absorbs all the heat bestowed upon it by ample sunshine. The wine, then, carries with it a supplementary weight on the palate, and reveals notes of very ripe yellow fruit on the nose. So many elements come together for a successful pairing, including the wonderful freshness that prevails throughout.

– Kler-Yann Bouteiller, sommelier

COCKTAIL POWER HOUR

PORTUGAL HERDADE DO ESPORAO 2015, ALENTEJO$18.95 12952973, 750 ML

This recipe, created exclusively for Cellier, will be featured (at 8 pm) on the October 7 episode of À la di Stasio on Télé-Québec. Don’t miss it!

OCTOBER 13

STEP 1Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F).

STEP 2Grease or line a baking sheet.

STEP 3Place the grated zucchini in a colander, season with salt and pepper, and mix well. Let rest for 5 minutes.

STEP 4With a clean kitchen towel, or with bare hands, press the zucchini to remove as much liquid as possible. About 500 mL (2 cups) of zucchini should remain.

STEP 5In a bowl, combine the drained zucchini with the rest of the ingredients.

STEP 6Cook a small amount of the mixture in a skillet. Taste and adjust seasoning, as needed.

STEP 7Shape into 2.5-cm (1-in) balls by rolling them in the palms of your hands.

STEP 8Transfer to the baking sheet and bake for 25 minutes. Place under the broiler for a few more minutes to darken the colour.

STEP 9Serve hot or at room temperature.

MAKES 24Preparation: 15 minutes Cooking: 25 minutes

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IN STORES

SEPTEMBER 29,OCTOBER 13 AND 27


ROASTED CHICKEN WITH ROSEMARYRecipe by Josée di Stasio

INGREDIENTS

1 1.4-kg (3-lb) chicken, butterflied (ask your butcher)

15 mL (1 tbsp) olive oil

2 mL (1/2 tsp) salt

10 mL (2 tsp) sweet paprika

4 to 5 sprigs rosemary*

4 to 5 cloves garlic, unpeeled

Paste

30 to 45 mL (2 to 3 tbsp) fresh rosemary, finely chopped*

30 mL (2 tbsp) grated lemon zest (using 1 large lemon)

10 mL (2 tsp) sweet paprika

15 to 30 mL (1 to 2 tbsp) olive oil

1 to 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 mL (1/2 tsp) salt

Vegetables

1 red onion, peeled and cut into 8 wedges

1 L (4 cups) new potatoes, halved or quartered, depending on size

2 assorted sweet peppers, cut into 8 pieces

60 mL (1/4 cup) olive oil

5 mL (1 tsp) salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 pinch hot pepper (optional)

* Instead of rosemary, use any herbs you prefer, like thyme, oregano, tarragon…


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STEP 1Line two baking sheets (or a baking sheet for the vegetables and a roasting pan for the chicken) with parchment paper.

STEP 2Rinse to clean the chicken and pat dry. Transfer to one of the baking sheets.

STEP 3To make the paste, combine all the ingredients. Gently lift the chicken breast and leg skins and spread the paste underneath the skin.

STEP 4In a small bowl, combine the olive oil, salt and paprika. Brush over the entire surface of the chicken (top and bottom) and rub in with your fingers.

STEP 5Tuck the wings under the chicken. Slide the rosemary sprigs and garlic cloves under the chicken.

STEP 6Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F).

STEP 7Place the vegetables in a large bowl. Add the olive oil, salt, pepper and hot pepper, and toss well. Transfer to the second baking sheet.

STEP 8Cook the chicken for 30 minutes then place the vegetable baking sheet on the lower rack, below the chicken. Cook for another 30 minutes.

STEP 9Serve the chicken with the vegetables and a salad, if desired.

NOTE: If necessary, ask your butcher to butterfly (flatten) the chicken for you. Or do it yourself: With a sharp chef’s knife or kitchen shears, cut along each side of the backbone. Remove backbone and set aside. Flatten the chicken with the palm of your hand. Freeze the backbone for future use in a broth.

4 SERVINGSPreparation: 20 minutes Cooking: 60 minutes

This Rioja certainly doesn’t lack in personality! It offers a sustained mouthfeel and powerful aromas. The vegetal character evokes conifers and it couples with the scent of the rosemary as it cooks. Chicken with rosemary and paprika calls for a wine with marked flavours, capable of carrying the aromatic intensity of the meal. The wine’s woody character matches well with the cooking method, a slow roasting of the rubbed chicken. Finally, the rich fruit, mouth-filling texture and moderate acidity of this Iberian cuvée fully respect the tender character of the oven-roasted white meat. A juicy, flavourful pairing!

To coincide with Josée di Stasio’s memories of Italy (our guest this issue), Puglia is also an option. Accompany the chicken with Taurino 7 Ceppo (see page 22) and you’ll soon be dreaming of your own vacations – past or future!

– K.Y. B.

FULL OF CHARACTER

SPAIN 2022

PALACIOS REMONDO, LA MONTESA RESERVA ESPECIAL 2010, RIOJA$45.00 12916438, 750 ML

SEPTEMBER 29

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IN STORES



A WORLD TO DISCOVERGrape Varieties

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The world’s winemakers have hundreds of grape varieties at their disposal from which to make every conceivable kind of wine – red, white, rosé, sparkling, dessert, fortified... Once you’ve developed a taste for it, learning about wine can be an endless occupation.

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Wine owes its almost infinite diversity, both in colour and taste, in great part to the multiplicity of grape varieties found all over the planet. Choices and styles abound in every kind of climate.

hat gives each wine its particular aroma and structure – in other words, its personality? The soil, the climate and the winemaker’s

skills account for a great deal, of course, but without a doubt, the most decisive factor is the grape variety itself. Planted in the same place, cultivated and vinified in the same manner, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Riesling or Viognier will produce very different wines.

Worldwide, there are almost 1,400 vine varieties that are used for making wine commercially, not to mention thousands of other types of table grapes. Jancis Robinson’s Wine Grapes, written with Julia Harding and José Vouillamoz, profiles these vine types, ranging from Abbuoto to Zweigelt, from ancient standards to recent hybrids (like those used in Quebec), from the Armenian borders to the heart of Burgundy. And Italy tops the diversity list, with almost 350 known varieties.

FAMILIAR OR DIFFERENT?Amidst all these possibilities, the wine world portrays two opposing trends. On the one hand, there is the constant rise of popular grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Tempranillo. And on the other, there is the eagerness to promote indigenous varieties, even to revive those that have virtually disappeared.

The emphasis on so-called international grape varieties is in large measure the preoccupation of major wine producers and a particular market segment, bent on offering products that wine drinkers will easily recognize. Cabernet Sauvignon, whether from Australia, Bordeaux, California, Chile or Italy, is a familiar grape, especially for consumers prone to finding wine culture a little intimidating. For many producers, notably those from emerging regions, using well-known varieties is also a way of spotlighting their region’s potential.

Conversely, several countries and regions today tend to showcase their vine heritage in order to stand out from the crowd. The Turks flaunt their Öküzgözü and Boğazkere. The Portuguese gain ground thanks to the unique personality of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz and other Baga grapes. The Chileans rediscover the merits of Païs, the variety that produces popular vins de soif (thirst-quenchers) before the rise of various Cabernets on world markets. In southern Italy’s Puglia region, Primitivo has become a significant signature varietal, but wine growers and local researchers are also pushing white grapes, like the aromatic Minutolo, or distinctive red grapes like Susumaniello. Organizations like Wine Mosaic in Europe are seeking to promote vineyard biodiversity through gatherings, theme tastings and other activities aimed at promoting the belief that there is indeed life after Merlot.

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A WORLD TO DISCOVER (CONTINUED)

SAVAGNIN

AMBIANCEFROMAGE

The Jura wine region is a highly individual case, a kind of UFO among French vineyards. There are, of course, Chardonnays and Pinots to be found, in case consumers prefer something more familiar, but the region is primarily noted for its Poulsard, Trousseau and, most especially, Savagnin grapes. The latter, a late-harvest variety with high acidity and a hard skin (that is to say, resistant to disease), is used for making vins jaunes (yellow wines) and other oxidative products in this northeastern region of France.

Vin jaune is aged sous voile – under a film of naturally occurring surface yeast – in partly filled casks, which leave the wine in

contact with oxygen. The vin jaune imparts intense aromas of curry or hazelnut, thanks to its key chemical compound called sotolon. This unusual bouquet goes particularly well with Comté or any other firm cheeses, and makes for an excellent sauce with poultry or trout. It doesn’t, however, provoke an immediate appeal. That’s where non-oxidized Savagnins come in, revealing the grape’s natural character and producing wines that are structured, expressive and elegant, with floral and spicy notes. It’s a great way to discover the varietal. And here’s the good news: The wine is increasingly easy to find.

OCTOBER 13

FRANCE 2020

DOMAINE RIJCKAERT, LES SARRES 2013, CÔTES DU JURA$28.75 12951356, 750 ML

18 Autumn 2016


The renewed interest in Mencía, grown in northwestern Spain, speaks volumes about the evolution of global wine consumption. Since consumers increasingly value quality and originality, and worldwide competition has grown ever stiffer, winemakers are always on the lookout for varietals with an individual personality, capable of creating distinctive cuvées.

MENCÍA

AMBIANCEGIGOT

Should you need proof that overlooked varietals can turn out to be bona fide treasures, look no further than Mencía, the key grape underpinning Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra wines in northern Spain. Also known by the name Jaén in Portugal, where it is used to produce Dão wines, Mencía enjoyed only a modest reputation some 30 years ago. And that was because the vines were mainly planted in flat and fertile plains, yielding high crop values and in turn very thin wines. However, in the 1990s, savvy wine growers like Alvaro Palacios and Raúl Pérez saw the potential of old

and abandoned Mencía vines on hillsides so steep that the vineyards had to be planted on terraces in order to make the best use of what little soil was available. Needless to say, cuvées produced under such conditions take on an altogether different nature, imparting aromas of fresh red or black berries, graphite-like mineral tones and elegant hints of pepper. The best mountain Mencías can resemble Syrahs from the Northern Rhône Valley, with the same potential for aging. Lighter versions make for satisfying vins de soif for Spanish drinkers – a well-deserved second life.

SPAIN 2020

BODEGAS ADRIÁ, VEGA MONTÁN 2010, BIERZO $19.95 12932972, 750 ML

OCTOBER 13

WA 92

IN STORES


Autumn 2016 19



Rather like Riesling, Chenin is one of those versatile varietals

that can leave consumers a little puzzled because it’s not always

easy to anticipate which wine style to expect. Some research (and recommendations from an in-store wine advisor) will help

you fall for its charm.

CHENINThere are precious few varieties as versatile as this fantastic white grape from the Loire Valley. It can be used to produce dry and elegant vintages, quality sparkling wines, rich and floral cuvées, as well as an entire range of sweet wines – from moelleux (slightly sweet) to dessert – made from grapes infected with botrytis, or noble rot. Its aromas of pear, occasional hints of peach, white flowers, even honey or wet wool, can reveal a remarkable complexity. Chenin’s naturally high acidity is most noticeable in appellations such as Anjou, Vouvray and Saumur – a key component that allows the wine to age over several decades. High acidity, which preserves freshness even when sugars are highly concentrated, also explains why Chenin

produces so many delicious sweet wines.While Chenin’s prestige has always

emanated from the historic Loire region, you’ll actually find twice as much growing in South Africa. Initially, this high volume was part and parcel of South Africa’s brandy trade, which used bulk-production Chenin wine as a base spirit for distillation. Today, wine growers in the Cape region extract a whole range of wines from this grape, from the simplest, freshest table wines to reserve cuvées – often woody and worth cellaring for several years. The sunny maritime climate along South Africa’s southern edge, refreshed by two adjoining oceans, is highly favourable to a varietal that is so comfortable in the maritime climate of the Loire region.

WA 92

OCTOBER 13

SOUTH AFRICA 2019

RAATS, CHENIN BLANC 2014, STELLENBOSCH$21.85 12783524, 750 ML

20 Autumn 2016


Thirst-quenching wines have grown increasingly popular in the past few years, and Cinsault is directly responsible for this trend, as are Gamay, Poulsard (from the Jura region) and Zweigelt (from Austria). These wines are both versatile with meals and pleasant to drink all on their own.

CINSAULTA grape native both to the Rhône and Languedoc regions, Cinsault has long been suspected as having little merit. Well, perhaps just one: its innate ability to deliver prolific yields. And that’s a perfect recipe for producing either inexpensive reds or light rosés for summertime quaffing. The grape could be found everywhere in southern French vineyards during the first half of the 20th century. But in the 1980s, wine growers, eager to make more serious wines, began ripping it out enthusiastically to make way for new varieties like Grenache, Mourvèdre or Syrah. Perhaps overlooked was the fact that in particularly hot years, Cinsault possesses the virtue of preserving fruit freshness in the

bottle. While Grenache potentially notches up a 16-percent natural alcohol level, Cinsault holds steady at 13 percent while preserving its acidity at the same time. Moreover, older vines produce wines that display character and complexity, with attractive aromas of red berries and mild spice. With the growing trend for lighter wines and moderate alcohol content, however, Cinsault has regained the favour of wine growers who are only too happy to use it to make vins de soif, not just in southern France but also in Chile, California and South Africa. Incidentally, South African producers have recently discovered quantities of old vines that they are turning into fine, high-end cuvées, delivering a long finish.

SOUTH AFRICA 2020

LEEUWENKUIL, CINSAULT 2014, SWARTLAND$20.00 12976895, 750 ML

OCTOBER 13

IN STORES


Autumn 2016 21



Besides its signature grape, Primitivo, southern Italy’s Puglia region boasts other highly original red varieties like the Negroamaro (generous, fruity and easy to drink) and the Nero di Troia (tannic, exuberant and well structured). Both varieties are also used in blends.

PRIMITIVOIdentifying grape varieties sometimes resembles detective work. Take the Chilean Merlot that, after in-depth investigation, was discovered to be a different Bordeaux grape entirely, namely, Carmenère. The same degree of scrutiny was focused on the links connecting the Italian grape Primitivo, several Croatian varietals and Zinfandel, that hallmark of California viticulture.

It turns out that Primitivo and Zinfandel are, in fact, one and the same grape, originally cultivated in Croatia under the name of Crljenak Kaštelanski. Still, the climatic conditions and the clones selected

in each region – California or southern Italy – give a different character to the wines. The newly discovered link has nonetheless given a new thrust to Primitivo production in Puglia, as the grape has suddenly been taken much more seriously on world markets. Primitivo wines from Salento, Manduria and Gioia del Colle are robust, spicy and often woody. When all its components are in perfect equilibrium, this generous grape will yield wines that age well, as the 2011 Taurino 7° Ceppo can attest – a wine both exuberant and seductive with pleasant notes of tobacco and spice, just right for drinking after five years.

ITALY 2020

TAURINO, 7 CEPPO 2011, SALENTO$23.95 12941043, 750 ML

OCTOBER 13

IN STORES


22 Autumn 2016


WHAT IS AMPELOGRAPHY?The identification of grape varieties, ampelography is no simple undertaking. Ampelographers traditionally study elements like the different shapes of the vine leaves and grape berries, the vine structure, the growing cycle, and so on. Genetics has radically transformed the approach, often disclosing unknown or misunderstood relationships between varieties located thousands of kilometres apart from one another.

There are so many profiles and personalities to discover in the vast universe of grape varieties. Xinomavro comes to mind, one of the Greek varieties whose best can stand toe to toe with the Barolos and Barbarescos from Piedmont, blessed with an elegant and noble tannic structure. And what about the delicious Mondeuse with its mixture of red berries and white pepper, a beautiful mountain wine that is the pride of the Savoie region? Then add to the list the Tinta Roriz and its other Portuguese siblings, with notes of tobacco and licorice, or the refreshingly light Verdelho, a popular maritime white from the Iberian Peninsula. But why stop here, when you can also try Rkatsiteli, Païs or Abouriou? It’s impossible to be bored while you sip your wine, as possibilities seem unlimited. And we haven’t even mentioned the blends...

DIVERSITY IS THE NAME OF THE GAME

SOUTH AFRICA 2019

ROBERTSON WINERY, CONSTITUTION ROAD CHARDONNAY 2014, BREEDE RIVER VALLEY$24.90 13005759, 750 ML

THE WORLD’S MOST-PLANTED VARIETIES

IN 1990

1. AIRÉN

2. GARNACHA TINTA

3. RKATSITELI

4. SULTANIYE

5. TREBBIANO-TOSCANO

6. MAZUELO

7. MERLOT

8. CABERNET SAUVIGNON

9. MONASTRELL

10. BOBAL

IN 2010

1. CABERNET SAUVIGNON

2. MERLOT

3. AIRÉN

4. TEMPRANILLO

5. CHARDONNAY

6. SYRAH

7. GARNACHA TINTA

8. SAUVIGNON BLANC

9. TREBBIANO TOSCANO

10. PINOT NOIR

Source: University of Adelaide, Australia

OCTOBER 27

Autumn 2016 23


The tuna’s pink colour could prompt considering a similarly coloured wine, but the preparation on the grill makes the fish more like a meat in many ways, allowing for a red-wine pairing instead. This Burgundy Pinot Noir has everything going for it to match with a pleasant meal. On the palate, its freshness harmonizes with the tomato salsa, enhanced by the saltiness of the capers. The tannins, barely noticeable yet quite supple, suit the cooking method and do not conflict with the delicate meat of the tuna. Don’t hesitate for even a moment about opening this invigoratingly fruity wine alongside this quickly prepared recipe.

– K.Y. B.

FIRED UP FOR FALL


FRANCE 2018

DOMAINE CHANZY, PINOT NOIR 2014, BOURGOGNE$28.80 13002961, 750 ML

RECIPE AT SAQ.COM

EASY GOURMET Grilled Tuna and Tomato Salsa

OCTOBER 13

IN STORES


24 Autumn 2016


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WINE REGION PINOTS OF THE WORLD

Pinot Noir acquires different characteristics depending on where in the world it’s produced, and Cellier’s New Arrivals this month perfectly reflect the diversity of these styles, from refreshing and crisp cuvées to sunnier, rounder versions.

• A difficult grape to work with There’s probably no greater challenge for wine growers than making the most of Pinot Noir. Vinification of this grape, planted in its native Burgundy at least 2,000 years ago, is especially demanding. It notably contains fewer phenolic compounds than other varieties and its lighter structure quickly reveals any flaws or deficiencies.

• Grape of many colours Genetically speaking, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Meunier are all variations of a single grape: Pinot. If you add the great number of available clones to these variations and consider that it can be the basis for red, white, rosé and sparkling wines, you will understand how greatly diversified the Pinot world can be.

• Planet Pinot While the great Pinots of Burgundy remain the inevitable choice of many wine lovers, research continues in other wine regions to uncover further secrets. New Zealand, Oregon, California, Australia, Chile, Canada and South Africa excel in this regard thanks to their cool terroirs that the grape requires.

• Finesse personified Vinification of Pinot is not so much a question of muscle and strength, but rather of complexity and nuance – but this doesn’t mean the grape lacks intensity and liveliness. You’ll recognize the moment when you manage to produce a good Pinot because it subtly and elegantly fuses the aromas of red or black berries, spices and herbs with notes of game, underbrush or mushroom.


HEARTWARMING MOMENTS

A TRUE CLASSIC Gin and tonic is one of the most popular drinks of all time, yet how many of us know that it owes its bitter taste to the quinine contained in the tonic water? Quinine was once widely used as an anti-malarial remedy but began to be diluted with gin to lessen its bitterness. To properly mix this easy-to-make cocktail, nothing beats our Automnique recipe, which calls for “tonic syrup,” available at specialty stores. The syrup is preferable to the traditional bottled tonic water, which is so rich in additives it spoils the taste.

AUTOMNIQUE

INGREDIENTS ■ 60 mL (2 oz) dry gin■ 30 mL (1 oz) homemade

or store-bought tonic syrup■ Club soda■ Ice cubes■ Seasonal fruit, to taste

DIRECTIONS■ Pour dry gin and tonic syrup

in an old-fashioned glass containing a few ice cubes.

■ Top up with club soda.■ Stir using a mixing spoon.■ Garnish with fruit.

TONIC SYRUP AND CLUB SODA + =

BROCKMANS Blackberry-flavouredDry gin, United Kingdom750 ML (12502382)$47.00

26 Autumn 2016

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GENEROUS SCOTLANDThe “cradle” of the world’s finest whiskies, Scotland produces as many varieties of Scotch as there are nuances in wines. In fact, of the hundreds of distilleries dotting the Scottish landscape, each has its individual style. Highland whiskies are full-bodied, Speysides display elegance, and others sport a seaside salty note. But all, without exception, lend themselves to relaxation and can serve as either aperitif or digestif.

AUCHENTOSHAN AMERICAN OAK LOWLANDSINGLE MALTSCOTCH WHISKY, United Kingdom750 ML (12401477)$60.00

HIGHLAND PARK 12 YEARSORKNEY SINGLE MALTSCOTCH WHISKY, United Kingdom750 ML (00204560)$80.00

Aging in American oak barrels previously used for bourbon provides this Scotch with a rich and suave expression, including some distinctive and round notes of vanilla and coconut.

Located in the Orkneys, a windswept archipelago located north of Scotland, this distillery was established in 1798 and is at the top of the list for the most demanding Scotch connoisseurs.C

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Autumn 2016 27

P26-27_CEL_Spiritueux_Automne2016_AN.indd 27 2016-08-10 13:52

Discover the world of Origine Québec products at the SAQ at www.saq.com/originequebec-en

HOMEMADE PIZZA

Limited quantities. Vintages may vary from store to store.

We’re talking about an award-winning winery. Its William red won gold at the 2016 Coupe des Nations in Quebec City, as did its Cuvée Glacée des Laurentides Vendanges Tardives at the 2015 Grands Vins du Québec competition, and its outstanding icewine, Monde, took top honours at the 2016 Vinalies in Paris.

Maréchal Foch accounts for one-third the William red’s grape content, and produces that peppery tang that goes so well with pizza.

The William has gained finesse over the years, says Daniel Lalande. The winemaker is proud to have maintained an assured consistency from one year to the next.

• The time factor Daniel Lalande named his wine for his son, a year after the boy was born. “My son will turn 18 in November. I’ve watched both Williams grow up. William, the wine, retains its lively personality, and that’s why people like to drink it young. At the same time, the wine is constantly evolving. If you haven’t tasted it for a few years, why not try the 2014? The acidity has levelled off and the accent is more on the fruit, so that nose and mouthfeel are as one.”

• An amazing region Winemakers have learned to work with the climate here in the Lower Laurentians as they have elsewhere in Quebec. “We constantly tend to the vines – protecting the primary buds, for example, thinning the clusters and monitoring the ripening fruit,” explains Lalande. “It’s our way of improving the product.”

Exuberant and pleasantly peppery, the William red makes a perfect partner for pizza and other simple but flavourful dishes.

AT A GLANCE

AROMASRED FRUIT, BLACK CHERRY, SPICES, HERBAL NOTES

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED

ACIDITY – LIVELY

SUGAR LEVEL– DRY

QUEBEC RIVIÈRE DU CHÊNE CUVÉE WILLIAM 2014$16.05 00743989, 750 ML

GRAPES : MARÉCHAL FOCH, FRONTENAC ROUGE, LÉON MILLOT, STE-CROIX, BACO NOIR, SEYVAL

RIVIÈRE DU CHÊNE WINERY LOWER LAURENTIANS | DANIEL LALANDE

• Expanded vineyards To his existing 16.5 hectares of vines in Saint-Eustache, Lalande recently added 24 hectares of land in adjacent Oka, of which 20 hectares have now been planted with vines. The new addition is called La Cantina, a nod to Lalande’s fondness for the Italian wine country.

• VIP tasting tours Starting this fall, small groups of visitors can take part in a new concept of wine tasting at the Saint-Eustache location. Called VIP New Sensory, the session features five food-wine pairings. Rivière du Chêne also boasts a loyalty-based wine club called Fleur de Lys, with 700 members and counting. Membership is free and comes with a number of benefits plus exclusive offers.

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P28_CEL_OrigineQC_Automne2016_AN.indd 28 2016-08-10 13:49

UNITED STATES 2020

CLOS DU BOIS CALCAIRE 2013, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY $27.85 12281532, 750 ML

Clos du Bois has won multiple awards for this Calcaire vintage, including a Double Gold and Best In Its Category from the San Francisco International Wine Competition. GRAPE: CHARDONNAY

SALMON BLANQUETTE MINI-CASSEROLES

SPAIN LOS BERMEJOS MALVASIA SECO 2015, LANZAROTE$25.65 12951102, 750 ML

Created from a variety of Malvasia specific to the Canary Islands, a Spanish archipelago in the Atlantic, this wine is made from the spectacular volcanic terroir of the island of Lanzarote.GRAPE: MALVOISIE

CHICKEN BREASTS WITH TAPENADE

UNITED STATES 2020

VINA ROBLES RED4 2012, PASO ROBLES$23.00 11882336, 750 ML

Winner of a double gold medal for this vintage at the 2015 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, this red blend was a real hit with the judges. Exuberant and charming.GRAPES: PETITE SIRAH, SYRAH, GRENACHE, MOURVÈDRE

BEEF BURGERS WITH BLUE CHEESE

UNITED STATES 2019

CONUNDRUM 2013, CENTRAL COAST$24.95 12095570, 750 ML

Building on the success of its outside-the-box white blend that’s made to be the opposite of California’s varietal wines, Conundrum has a red version bursting with flamboyant fruit.GRAPES: PETITE SIRAH, ZINFANDEL, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MUSCAT

CONFIT-DUCK-AND-FIG BITES

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED

ACIDITY – MODERATE

SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

YEASTY NOTES, FLORAL NOTES, GREEN APPLE, STARFRUIT

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT

ACIDITY – LIVELY

SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

GRAPE, CHERRY, COCOA, TART CANDY, PASTRY

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE

ACIDITY – DISCREET

SUGAR LEVEL – OFF DRY

PLUM, RIPE RED FRUIT, VIOLETS, SMOKE, BAKING SPICE, OAK

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

PEAR, ORANGE, HONEY, WHITE FLOWERS

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

BLACKBERRY, DRIED CRANBERRY, PEACH, ROASTED NOTES

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

GREEN APPLE, PEAR, HAZELNUT, MARZIPAN

SCAN TO BUY

000872 0300158

50 >

ITALY BISOL VIGNETI DEL FOL 2014, VALDOBBIADENE, PROSECCO SUPERIORE$25.65 12914248, 750 ML

Knowing the level of precision and quality control involved in wine production at Bisol, it’s not surprising that this special cuvée found its way onto Decanter’s list of top 10 Proseccos.GRAPE: GLERA

BRUNCH

BODY – LIGHT

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED



CANTALOUPE, FLORAL NOTES, CHALK

009801 2914446

40 >

857151 0031030

30 >

437002 9950108

00 >

834024 0018480

80 >

017224 7601220

20 >

SEPTEMBER 29 ONLINE PRESALE FROM SEPTEMBER 22

087356 0106240

40 >

SOUTH AFRICA 2018

MULLINEUX KLOOF STREET 2015, SWARTLAND $23.15 12889409, 750 ML

A rising star! After only four vintages, Chris and Andrea Mullineux’s winery was declared 2014 Winery of the Year by South Africa’s main wine guide, Platter.GRAPE: CHENIN BLANC

SHRIMP-AND-SCALLOP SKEWERS

UNITED STATES 2019

DEEP PURPLE LODI ZINFANDEL 2013, CALIFORNIA$19.25 12941238, 750 ML

The uniquely styled label created by Bob Johnson, a well-known illustrator in the world of wine, is reminiscent of the 1960s psychedelic culture. Very trippy! GRAPE: ZINFANDEL

BARBECUED CHICKEN WINGS

Products are available in limited quantities. No layaways are permitted until the Monday following the release of the products. Prices are subject to change without notice.

Autumn 2016 29

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P. 26UNITED KINGDOMBROCKMANS BLACKBERRY-FLAVOURED DRY GIN$47.00 12502382, 750 ML

Besides the traditional juniper berry, this gin shows intense aromas of black fruit (blueberry and blackberry) as well as licorice, orange peel and lemon.

P. 27UNITED KINGDOMAUCHENTOSHAN AMERICAN OAK LOWLAND SCOTCH WHISKY SINGLE MALT$60.00 12401477, 750 ML

Aging in American oak barrels previously used for bourbon provides this Scotch with a rich and suave expression, including some distinctive and round notes of vanilla and coconut.

UNITED STATES 2021

PINOT NOIR LAKE SONOMA 2014, SONOMA COAST$29.95 12901877, 750 ML

Slightly cooler than Napa Valley, its easterly neighbour, Sonoma has many sectors that are perfectly suited for varieties that need to show finesse like Pinot Noir.GRAPE: PINOT NOIR

BEEF-AND-BEET CARPACCIO

SOUTH AFRICA 2022

SPICE ROUTE CHAKALAKA 2013, WESTERN CAPE $27.25 11385452, 750 ML

Like a perfect combination of spices, this wine is meant to harmoniously bring together many different vineyards and varieties. The profiles complement each other and make the wine shine.GRAPES: SYRAH, MOURVÈDRE, PETITE SIRAH, CARIGNAN, GRENACHE, TANNAT

COCOA-MARINATED FLANK STEAK

UNITED STATES 2021

CAYMUS ZINFANDEL 2014, NAPA VALLEY$50.00 00282459, 750 ML

A name that doesn’t need any more introductions. Charming and accessible, Chuck Wagner’s Zinfandel is just perfect with grilled meats or a main course of braised beef.GRAPE: ZINFANDEL

TUSCAN-STYLE RIB STEAK

P. 15SPAIN 2022

PALACIOS REMONDO, LA MONTESA RESERVA ESPECIAL 2010, RIOJA$45.00 12916438, 750 ML

Visionary winemaker Jose Palacios Remondo sent his sons to the best oenology schools to ensure the family estate’s continuing success – pretty much a sure thing once Alvaro took over in 2000.GRAPES: GRENACHE, TEMPRANILLO, MAZUELO, GRACIANO

ROASTED CHICKEN WITH ROSEMARY

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT



STRAWBERRY JAM, BARLEY SUGAR, PINE TREE

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – PRONOUNCED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

BLACK FRUIT, CHOCOLATE, COCONUT, VANILLA

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

PLUM JAM, COCONUT, CEDAR, PASTRY

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

CHERRY, LICORICE, BUTTER, SANDALWOOD, COCOA, CEDAR

010296 1691645

40 >

859141 0040910

10 >

729188 0000070

70 >

009624 5102106

00 >

017224 7301010

10 >

411580 0359008

00 >

SOURCES CITEDV: Vinous (out of 100)WA: Wine Advocate, Robert Parker (out of 100)

ICON LEGEND

* The potential longevity of a wine when stored in the proper conditions. Note that this is simply a guideline, with the exceptions – and they are numerous! – proving the rule.

drink now

hold until the year indicated

drink now trough the year indicated

Favourite

WHITE WINE RED WINE

UNITED STATES 2021

AQUINAS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, NAPA VALLEY$26.35 11901832, 750 ML

With its generous notes of vanilla, coffee, blackcurrant jam and pastry, this modern and powerful Cabernet Sauvignon will be perfect with a nice serving of grilled meat – cooked rare.GRAPE: CABERNET SAUVIGNON

GRILLED FLANK STEAK WITH BLACKCURRANT JELLY

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

BLACKCURRANT, BLACK FRUIT, EUCALYPTUS, COCOA, TOBACCO

833302 0010370

70 >

ITALY 2019-2024

SANGIOVESE TENUTA IL POGGIONE 2014, ROSSO DI MONTALCINO$25.70 12921974, 750 ML

Rossos – from Montalcino – are more accessible, making them a good introduction to Brunellos, the appellation’s top wine. Don’t hesitate to give this one a good decanting.GRAPE: SANGIOVESE

WILD-BOAR SAUSAGES WITH WILD MUSHROOMS

BODY – FULL

PALATE – STRUCTURED

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

CHERRY, LICORICE, BAKING SPICE, OLIVES, COFFEE

011074 3000118

10 >

30 Autumn 2016

P29-34_CEL_NouvelArrivage_Automne2016_AN.indd 30 2016-08-10 13:37

P. 13PORTUGAL HERDADE DO ESPORAO 2015, ALENTEJO$18.95 12952973, 750 ML

A great example of the typical character of Verdelho (not to be confused with the Spanish Verdejo), this cuvée shows great aromatic intensity and exemplary freshness.GRAPE: VERDELHO

ZUCCHINI-AND-FETA BALLS

P. 20SOUTH AFRICA 2019

RAATS, CHENIN BLANC 2014, STELLENBOSCH $21.85 12783524, 750 ML

Specializing in wines made from Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc, this family winery is on the rise in Stellenbosch, and this cuvée shows that their success is far from a flash in the pan. A superb wine.GRAPE: CHENIN BLANC

SMOKED-SALMON APPETIZERS

P. 18FRANCE 2020

DOMAINE RIJCKAERT LES SARRES 2013, CÔTES DU JURA$28.75 12951356, 750 ML

Praised for its wines from the Mâcon region of Burgundy and the Jura, this estate brilliantly showcases Savagnin, the emblematic grape of Jura, in this single-vineyard wine from the region of Les Sarres.GRAPE: SAVAGNIN

RABBIT WITH CIDER

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

LEMON, TROPICAL FRUIT, CHALK

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

APPLE, LEMON, PINEAPPLE, CHAMOMILE, SALINE NOTES

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

PEAR, BUTTER, FLORAL NOTES, SALINE NOTES

601989 9916835

30 >

009800 4970146

40 >

760149 5702663

60 >

OCTOBER 13 ONLINE PRESALE FROM OCTOBER 6


LEEUWENKUIL, CINSAULT 2015, SWARTLAND $20.00 12976895, 750 ML

Grapes for this wine are picked at various stages of ripeness, adding complexity, while the use of carbonic maceration highlights the fruit. A new Eldorado for Cinsault?GRAPE: CINSAULT

DUCK TERRINE

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

CHERRY, GRENADINE, OLIVES, SPICES

002039 0106036

30 >

PORTUGAL 2022

FONTE DE GONÇALVINHO, TINTA RORIZ 2010, DÃO$20.15 12974531, 750 ML

Casimir and Christelle, a Franco-Portuguese couple, fell under the spell of the Dao region and, fuelled by their strong passion for wine, decided to create their winery from scratch.GRAPE: TINTA RORIZ

ROASTED RACK OF VENISON

BODY – MEDIUM


WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

BAKED BLACK FRUIT, SMOKE, LICORICE, CHARRED WOOD

600202 7561535

30 >

WA 92

P. 19SPAIN 2020

BODEGAS ADRIÁ, VEGA MONTÁN 2010, BIERZO$19.95 12932972, 750 ML

The Mencía grape has been experiencing a renaissance, in particular in the Bierzo appellation of northwestern Spain, thanks to its fruity, floral and spicy profile with a good dose of elegance. GRAPE: MENCÍA

ROASTED LEG OF LAMB

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

RIPE CHERRY, IRON/BLOOD, BAKING SPICE

422972 0101538

30 >

WA 92

SCAN TO BUY

ITALY 2022

CANTINE DEL NOTAIO L’ATTO 2013, BASILICATE $19.95 12941174, 750 ML

Cantine del Notaio has been working in partnership with Luigi Moio, a professor of oenology at the University of Naples, in order to fully express the Aglianico variety’s full potential. GRAPE: AGLIANICO

LAMB BROCHETTES WITH MINT

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT



BLACK FRUIT, PEACH, PINE TREE, COCOA

032621 2214128

20 >

WA 91

Autumn 2016 31


GREECE 2021

ALPHA ESTATE HEDGEHOG, XINOMAVRO 2010, AMYNTEO$20.50 12941060, 750 ML

Even easier to love than to pronounce, Xinomavro has been a very successful grape variety in Greece. Its freshness and aromatic complexity, as well as its great tannins, can make it quite seductive.GRAPE: XINOMAVRO

BEEF TARTARE WITH COCOA AND HOT PEPPERS

FRANCE 2018

PASCAL & ANNICK QUENARD, LA SAUVAGE 2015, SAVOIE$25.05 10884671, 750 ML

Warning… This is a wine with high levels of drinkability! This lovely wine, made from the Savoie variety called Mondeuse, will seduce anyone who loves fruity, easygoing reds with a touch of spice.GRAPE: MONDEUSE

SPICED RACK OF PORK

P. 24FRANCE 2018

DOMAINE CHANZY, PINOT NOIR 2014, BOURGOGNE$28.80 13002961, 750 ML

“B” (be), a new brand by Domaine Chanzy, has a branding and an outlook that seeks to identify itself with a hip, energetic and positive lifestyle. A different way of showcasing Burgundy wines! GRAPE: PINOT NOIR

GRILLED TUNA AND TOMATO SALSA

P. 22ITALY 2020

TAURINO 7, CEPPO 2011, SALENTO$23.95 12941043, 750 ML

The Taurino family was among the pioneers who focused on quality and thereby contributed to the renaissance of winemaking in Puglia, the “heel” of Italy’s “boot”. GRAPE: PRIMITIVO

STEAK WITH MONTREAL-STYLE SPICES

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

FIGS, PRUNES, TOBACCO, OLIVES

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

RED BERRIES, VIOLETS, PEPPER

BODY – LIGHT

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

STRAWBERRY, PEONY, SPICES, HERBAL NOTES

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

DRIED FRUIT, BAKING SPICE, LICORICE, TOBACCO, COCOA

205243 3105335

30 >

410080 0010453

50 >

455591 4921043

40 >

013417 0001078

70 >

WA 91

ITALY 2020

CARMENÈRE PIU INAMA 2013, VENETO$22.70 11389074, 750 ML

While Chile confused it with Merlot, Northern Italian wine growers still face a certain confusion between Carmenère and Cabernet Franc. Here, it shows a generous and structured expression. GRAPES: CARMENÈRE, MERLOT

STEAK WITH RED-PEPPER CONFIT

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

BLACKBERRY, RED BELL PEPPER, VIOLETS, SPICES

029001 0003308

00 >

UNITED STATES 2019

CAIDEN’S VINEYARDS BLOCK NINE 2014, CALIFORNIA$23.70 12982451, 750 ML

This winery makes only one wine, but does it with complete focus. The Wine Advocate team included it in its Best Value Wines (under $25) for California Pinot Noir: a nice tribute to their work.GRAPE: PINOT NOIR

GRILLED TUNA WITH TOMATO SALSA

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

BLACK CHERRY, CAMPHOR, VANILLA

183491 0001900

00 >

SLOVAKIA 2019

CHÂTEAU ZUMBERG, FRANKOVKA MODRA 2014, VINO ZO SLOVENSKA$22.90 12941220, 750 ML

Previously known for high yields and low quality, Slovakia seems to be making substantial changes in its vineyards, as demonstrated by this tasty and satisfying Blaufränkisch.GRAPE: BLAUFRÄNKISCH

MARINATED PORK TENDERLOIN

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

BLACKBERRY, RASPBERRY, BLACK CHERRY, COCOA

588000 5222178

70 >

GUATEMALAPLANTATION GRAN AÑEJO, RUM$39.00 12555548, 700 ML

A blend of rums from Guatemala and Belize, Plantation Gran Añejo was aged in bourbon barrels before being finished for a few months in France, in old cognac casks from Maison Ferrand.

460410 5299093

90 >

MORE FINDS IN CELLIER SPACE,

ONLINE OR IN STORES

32 Autumn 2016


V 90

FRANCE DOMAINE ANDRÉ ET MIREILLE TISSOT BRUT, CRÉMANT DU JURA$28.30 11456492, 750 ML

On his biodynamically farmed family estate, Stéphane Tissot makes this magnificent Crémant, aged on lees for 18 months. A must-buy, year in, year out – and at a great price too!GRAPES: CHARDONNAY, PINOT NOIR, POULSARD

CRACKERS WITH PÂTÉ DE FOIE GRAS

SOUTH AFRICA NEWTON JOHNSON, FÉLICITÉ 2015, BREEDE RIVER VALLEY$17.80 12889724, 750 ML

The founder of this renowned estate, Dave Johnson, used his wife Felicity’s name as inspiration for creating a range of wines focusing on elegance and varietal typicity.GRAPE: CHARDONNAY

OLIVE-PARMESAN COCKTAIL CAKE


ROBERTSON WINERY, CONSTITUTION ROAD CHARDONNAY 2014, BREEDE RIVER VALLEY$24.90 13005759, 750 ML

Created in 2004 to commemorate the first ten years of democracy in South Africa under the new constitution, this Chardonnay is opulent, with a lot of personality. GRAPE: CHARDONNAY

CHICKEN WITH A CREAM-AND-MUSHROOM SAUCE

FRANCE DOMAINE MARCEL DEISS, BEBLENHEIM 2012, ALSACE$26.15 11544476, 750 ML

Now run by Marcel’s grandson, Jean-Michel, and his son Mathieu, this winery is known for its low-intervention approach. For them, good wine comes – first and foremost – from good grapes.GRAPE: PINOT GRIS

RARE-SALMON BITES WITH HONEY

ITALY PETER ZEMMER, PINOT BIANCO PUNGGL 2014, ALTO ADIGE$22.35 12884456, 750 ML

Located in a small village in Alto Adige that stays true to its Germanic roots, this winery has been very successful thanks to its refined and elegant wines, a style fostered by the alpine climate.GRAPE: PINOT BLANC

CHEESE FONDUE

CHILE 2018

CLOS DES FOUS, LOCURA 1 2013, VALLE CENTRAL$24.55 11927805, 750 ML

Locura (a Spanish word for folly) is made by the famous Clos des Fous, what four friends named their estate when they decided to make Burgundy-style wines in cooler parts of Chile.GRAPE: CHARDONNAY

LINGUINE WITH CLAMS

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED

ACIDITY – LIVELY

SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

RIPE APPLE, STRAW, HAZELNUT, MINERAL NOTES

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

APPLE, PEACH, ALMOND

BODY – FULL

PALATE – RICH

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

APPLE, CORN, BUTTER, OAK

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – RICH

WOOD – UNOAKED



BARLEY SUGAR, FRESH MUSHROOMS, APPLE, HONEY

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

HONEYDEW, WHITE FLOWERS, APPLE

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

PEACH, PEAR, BUTTER, FLORAL NOTES

561019 6000963

60 >

006379 0002496

90 >

002039 0104746

40 >

568212 1541803

00 >

032601 2100168

60 >

804640 2200017

10 >

OCTOBER 27 ONLINE PRESALE FROM OCTOBER 20

ARGENTINA 2020

BODEGA DIAMANDES, PERLITA 2015, VALLE DE UCO$19.35 12941481, 750 ML

A seductive blend of opulent Malbec and spicy Syrah, this wine was harvested by hand and vinified using gravity to treat the grapes as gently as possible.GRAPES: MALBEC, SYRAH

BEEF TENDERLOIN WITH CHIMICHURRI

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

BLACKCURRANT, VIOLETS, CANDY, BLUEBERRY, LICORICE, PEPPER

798141 1803497

90 >

SCAN TO BUY

V 90 WA 93

Autumn 2016 33


ARGENTINA 2020

BODEGA DEL DESIERTO, DESIERTO 25 2014, PATAGONIA$20.75 11156932, 750 ML

Argentina has more to offer than just Malbec. Located south of Mendoza, the Patagonia vineyards are perfect for grape varieties requiring cooler temperatures to show their elegance.GRAPE: CABERNET FRANC

BEEF BOURGUIGNON

SOUTH AFRICA 2019

PAUL CLUVER, VILLAGE 2014, WESTERN CAPE$21.95 12890856, 750 ML

Located southeast of Cape Town, the Elgin region is well suited to cultivating aromatic and cool climate varieties thanks to its altitude and proximity to the Atlantic Ocean.GRAPE: PINOT NOIR

BEEF BRAISED IN RED WINE

CHILE LOUIS-ANTOINE LUYT, LEGNO DURO 2014, CHILE$27.85 12940972, 750 ML

After studying wine in Beaune and taking many trips back and forth between France and Chile, Louis-Antoine Luyt decided to make natural wine in the Southern Hemisphere. He’s an atypical, but popular, vigneron. GRAPE: CARIGNAN

CHINESE FONDUE

NEW ZEALAND 2020

QUARTZ REEF, SHED 6 2014, CENTRAL OTAGO$32.25 12902167, 750 ML

Shed 6, named after the cellar where the wines are made at Quartz Reef, shows all the potential of Pinot Noir in the Central Otago region, an outright promised land for this variety.GRAPE: PINOT NOIR

PORK CHOPS WITH BAKING SPICE

SPAIN 2026

BODEGA ALEJANDRO FERNÁNDEZ, TINTO PESQUERA 2013, RIBERA DEL DUERO$32.75 10273109, 750 ML

Yet another brilliant wine from Alejandro Fernández, who contributed so much in making Ribera del Duero one of the top regions in Spain, notably through this estate – a favourite in Quebec.GRAPE: TEMPRANILLO

LAMB SHANK WITH SWEET SPICES

UNITED STATES 2021

DOMAINE LOUBEJAC, PINOT NOIR 2014, WILLAMETTE VALLEY$26.00 12875533, 750 ML

Located south of Portland and only a few dozen kilometres from the Pacific Ocean, this winery makes the best of a temperate climate – perfect for making wine from traditional Burgundy varieties.GRAPE: PINOT NOIR

ROASTED CHICKEN WITH HERBS

CHILE 2020

TABALI, TALINAY 2014, VALLE DEL LIMARI $27.05 12976908, 750 ML

Three years in a row, this wine was named best Chilean Pinot Noir by Descorchados, a reference guide for South American wines. Indeed, it is simply delicious and sure to please.GRAPE: PINOT NOIR

GRILLED VEAL RIB STEAK

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

CHERRY, CEDAR, SPICES

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

CHERRY IN EAU-DE-VIE, MOCHA, PLUM

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

RED FRUIT, VIOLETS, PEPPER, WET EARTH

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

BLACK CHERRY, COCOA, DRIED HERBS, DRIED FLOWERS

BODY – FULL


WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

PLUM, LICORICE, LEATHER, TOBACCO, SMOKE, RESIN, OAK

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

CHERRY, PLUM, HERBAL NOTES, SPICES

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

RASPBERRY, CHERRY, FLOWERS, SPICES

798126 7902287

80 >

009609 1504176

70 >

561141 0812212

10 >

421002 7060039

30 >

423339 9240148

40 >

858902 0040040

40 >

808734 2012047

40 >

WA 91

P. 27UNITED KINGDOMHIGHLAND PARK 12 YEARS ORKNEY SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY $80.00 00204560, 750 ML

Located in the Orkneys, a windswept archipelago located north of Scotland, this distillery was established in 1798 and is at the top of the list for the most demanding Scotch connoisseurs.

010314 0667035

30 >

MORE FINDS IN CELLIER SPACE,

ONLINE OR IN STORES

WA 92

34 Autumn 2016


167120-SALON DES VINS-anglais.indd 1 2016-08-10 11:14

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