PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Madagascar .. 210 Top Experiences ........ 6Need to Know ................. 12If You Like... ..................... 14Month by Month ............. 17Itineraries ........................ 19Regions at a Glance ....... 22

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND MADAGASCAR

Madagascar Today......... 192History ............................. 194Malagasy Life .................. 201Arts .................................. 206Malagasy Cuisine ........... 208Environment ................... 211Wildlife ............................. 217Parks & Reserves ........... 241

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Madagascar TodayThe Dark YearsMadagascar has been in the throes of a political crisis since Andry Ra-joelina came to power following violent uprisings in March 2009; his predecessor, Marc Ravalomanana, handed power to the army and fled to South Africa.

The international community decided that Rajoelina’s accession to power was unconstitutional and refused to recognise his High Transi-tional Authority (HAT) as a legitimate government.

A power-sharing deal brokered by France, South Africa and the Af-rican Union between HAT and the opposition was reached in August 2009, only to be dismissed by HAT a couple of months later. The sanc-tions were swift and drastic: all international aid funding, which rep-resented about 50% of the government’s public funding, was withheld.

In August 2010, Marc Ravalomanana was condemned, in absentia, to forced labour for life for the deaths of 30 protesters during the upris-ings of February 2009 (the presidential guards had fired on the crowd without warning).

HAT’s self-imposed deadline of running elections within 24 months came and went, but the Southern African Development Community (SADC) kept working behind the scenes on a compromise. In March 2011, after months of negotiations, SADC presented a draft roadmap for an exit to the crisis.

Light at the End of the Tunnel?It took a few iterations but the roadmap was finally signed by all political parties on 17 September 2011, with the exception of former president and political exile Didier Ratsiraka. One of the insistences of SADC was the ‘unconditional return’ of all political exiles, a point that Rajoelina tem-pered by adding that exiles would not be immune from judicial pursuits.

»» Population: 19.6 million»» 77% live below

the national poverty line»» Life expect-

ancy: 60»» Literacy: 71%»» Average

number of children per woman: 4.7

Dos & Don’ts Top Books»» Respect local fady (taboos),

which are cultural and social dictates that relate to food, behaviour and certain times of the week or year. Guides will explain.»» Don’t point; bend your finger

or indicate with your palm.

»» Bring rice or a bottle of rum if you’re invited to a Malagasy home.»» Don’t attend cultural

celebrations such as exhumation or circumcision ceremonies unless you have been invited.

A History of Madagascar (2001) by Mervyn BrownThe Eighth Continent: Life, Death and Discovery in the Lost World of Madagascar (2000) by Peter TysonThe Aye-Aye and I (1992) by Gerald Durrell

≈ 33 people

SOUTH AFRICAMADAGASCAR UK

population per sq km

208

Malagasy CuisineFood is taken seriously in Madagascar, where French, Chinese and In-dian influences have blended with local eating traditions into an exciting and often mouth-watering cuisine. Regional variations are many, with a variety of fruit, vegetables and seafood dictating local tastes and recipes.

Malagasy ClassicsEating rice three times a day is so ingrained in Malagasy culture that people sometimes claim they can’t sleep if they haven’t eaten rice that day. In fact, the verb ‘to eat’ in Malagasy, mihinam-bary, literally means ‘to eat rice’.

Rice is eaten on its own for breakfast, in porridge form; for lunch and dinner it is generally accompanied by a helping of meat, such as hen’omby (boiled zebu), hen’ankisoa (pork), hen’akoho (chicken or duck) or hen’andrano (fish). Common preparations include ravitoto (stew – usually beef or pork – with manioc greens and coconut), sauce coco (a delicious coconut curry, usually with chicken, fish or seafood) and the nondescript sauce (generally a tomato-based affair; served with anything from chicken to fish).

To keep things interesting, the Malagasies have developed an arsenal of aromatic condiments, such as sakay (a red-hot pepper paste with ginger and garlic), pimente verde (a fiery green chilli) and achards (hot pickled fruit, such as tomato, lemon, carrot or mango, used as relish – you’ll see bottles of the stuff sold by the roadside).

Rice AlternativesThe most common alternative to rice is a steaming bowl of mi sao (fried noodles with vegetables or meat) or a satisfying soupe chinoise (clear noodle soup with fish, chicken or vegetables) – dishes that show the Asian origins of the Malagasy. Poorer rural communities supplement their rice diet with starchy roots such as manioc or corn.

WHERE TO EATWhat you eat in Madagascar will largely depend on where you eat. Hotelys or gargotes are small, informal restaurants found in every city and town; they are cheap and serve no-frills, typical Malagasy fare such as romazava (beef and vegetable stew), poulet sauce or grilled fish, with a mountain of rice for bulk. The quality ranges from rough to delicious. The tastier Malagasy food is often served in private homes, and what better excuse to make friends with the locals!

Restaurants, which range from modest to top-end establishments, serve various types of cuisines, including fancier versions of Malagasy standards. Quality is invariably good, sometimes outstanding. Many restaurants offer a menu du jour (three-course set menu), or a plat du jour (daily special), which are generally good value. Prices for these are usually around Ar15,000 to Ar25,000. For à la carte menus, the average price of a main course is Ar10,000 to Ar15,000.

The growth of a rice plant is described in

Malagasy using the same words

as those for a woman becoming

pregnant and giving birth.

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hard to resist. And once you’ve swayed in your hammock to your heart’s content, you can join a local fisher for a pirogue (dugout canoe) trip, go sailing to explore nearby islands or board a whale-watching boat to admire humpbacks breaching – one of nature’s most majestic spectacles.

Of Life & DeathMadagascar has been populated by suc-cessive waves of migrants from various corners of the Indian Ocean, each bring-ing their own customs and beliefs. This cultural melting pot has evolved into an intricate set of beliefs and rituals that re-vere ancestors’ spirits. For travellers, get-ting accustomed to the central role that

death plays in everyday life is often an opportunity to reassess their own beliefs, and attending a famadihana (traditional exhumation and reburial) or a traditional circumcision ceremony can be the high-light of a trip. There is much history to discover, too, from the 12 sacred hills of Antananarivo to the pirate cemetery of Ile Sainte Marie and the vestige of Madagas-car’s industrial revolution in Mantasoa.

What a Wonderful WorldMadagascar is unique: 5% of all known ani-mal and plant species can be found here, and here alone. The remarkable fauna and flora is matched by epic land-scapes of an incredible diversity: you can go from rainforest to desert in just 300km. Few places on earth offer such an intense kaleidoscope of nature. Making the best of it, however, can be challenging (and ex-pensive): Madagascar is the world’s fourth-largest island and its roads are dismal. But those who relish an adventure will come into their own: the off-road driving is one of a kind, and there are national parks that only see 100 visitors a year, regions that

live in autarchy during the rainy season and resorts so remote you’ll need a private plane or boat to get there.

Turn to the SeaWith 5000km of coastline, 450km of barrier reef and 250 islands, no stay in Madagascar would be complete without a few days on the island’s shores. Divers will revel in the choice of sites, from un-derwater ‘cathedrals’ to shipwrecks, and will relish the chance to see rays, whale sharks, reef sharks and many other kinds of sharks. Snorkellers will be awed by the sheer grace of turtles and marvel at the rainbow of colours displayed by corals and fish. For those keen to keep their heads above water, the idyllic beaches will prove

Lemurs, baobabs, rainforest, beaches, desert, trekking and diving: Madagascar is a dream destination for nature and outdoor lovers – and half the fun is getting to all these incredible attractions.

(left) Sakalava woman carrying fish on her head, Morondava (p113)(below) Crystal-clear waters of La Mer d’Emeraude (p145)

3

Welcome to Madagascar

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

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191GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you can make sense of what you see

Madagascar is the world’s fourth-biggest island, and with its huge size comes a huge amount of diversity. Central Madagascar is the most popular part of the country, and the most accessible.

The coastal regions are the realm of the 4WD and can be challenging to travel in (the northwest being the exception). Southern Madagascar will appeal to divers and snorkellers. Beach bums will be better off in Ile Sainte Marie in the east or Nosy Be in the north.

Western Madagascar will delight those in search of something a little different, while activities enthusiasts will be at home in Northern Madagascar.

Eastern Madagascar is the most remote region, but those who make it there will be rewarded with pristine environments.

#_

Antananarivo

History PPPFood PPPShopping PP

History & CultureThe development of a Malagasy identity is intimately linked to the emergence of Antananarivo (Tana) as a capital: this is the home of the kings who brought together the island’s tribes. As one Malagasy put it, ‘to under-stand our history is to understand us’.

GastronomyFoodies of the world, rejoice, Tana’s got fusion cuisine down to a T. Imagine French gastronomy, prepared with the freshest Malagasy ingredients, add a soupçon of Creole, a smidgen of Indian, and voilà!

Retail TherapyTana is a mix of arts, crafts, clothes and delis. Bargain-hunters head for the markets, while more conventional shop-pers love the well-stocked boutiques.

p26

Central MadagascarCulture PPPTrekking PPPScenery PP

Malagasy LifeTravellers often start their trip in Madagascar with the highlands, and what a great intro-duction to Mala-gasy life: accessible homestays, colour-ful markets (includ-ing the biggest zebu market in the country), colonial architecture and plenty of artisans.

Amazing TreksWhen it comes to trekking, Parc Na-tional d’Andringitra is in a league of its own. The trails are challenging, the views breathtaking and there is good infrastructure. The region’s other national parks also offer great walks.

Scenic HighlandsVerdant peaks, ma-jestic summits and stunning forests: one of the main draws of the high-lands is their indis-putable beauty.

p48

regions at a glance

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Ile aux Nattes

3 If you’ve been dreaming of tropical island paradise, Ile aux Nattes (p181) is a dream

come true. Standing at the tip of Ile Sainte Marie (pictured below), a short pirogue ride away or a leisurely walk at low tide, this is the place to come and do absolutely nothing. Nestle in a hammock at Chez Sika, laze on the beach and swim. And when you’ve had enough, cross over to Sainte Marie and zoom across the island on a motorbike (p177).

Sunset at Allée des Baobabs

4 Few things say Madagascar more than this small stretch of the RN8 between

Morondava and Belo-sur-Tsiribihina (p117). Lined with majestic baobabs, it comes into its own at sunset and sunrise when the trees cast their long shadows on the red sand and the sky lights up with orange and purple hues. In addition to the Allée, you’ll find plenty more baobabs across southern and western Mada-gascar. Some live for up to a thousand years and reach epic proportions: Majunga’s sacred baobab (p99) measures 21m around its trunk!

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Itiner-aries

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INDIANOCEAN

Ambositra

Tuléar(Toliara)

ANTANANARIVO

Antsirabe

#÷

#÷#÷

Parc Nationalde Ranomafana

Parc Nationald'Andringitra

ParcNationalde l'Isalo

#•#÷#•Nosy Be Réserve Naturelle Intégrale de LokobeNosy KombaNosy Tanikely #•

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Two WeeksEssential Madagascar

A combination of the classic RN7 with some island R&R. On day one, head down to the highland town of Antsirabe, with its wide colonial streets and colourful rickshaws.

On day two, wind your way down to Parc National de Ranomafana through the highland’s scenic landscapes, stopping en route at the arts-and-crafts capital Am-

bositra. Spend day three hiking and searching for lemurs in Ranomafana’s rainforest. On day four, drive to the superb Parc National d’Andringitra; spend the next two days on the Imarivolanitra trail, which takes in the summit of Pic Boby, Madagascar’s second-highest peak.

On the seventh day, drive to Parc National de l’Isalo; spend day eight exploring the park’s desert plains and canyons. On day nine, it’s a long drive to Tuléar (Toliara). On day 10, fly to Antananarivo (Tana), and then on to Nosy Be. Spend the morning at the beach and take a quad bike tour of the hinterland in the afternoon. On day 12, take a day trip to Nosy Komba and Nosy Tanikely for unrivalled snorkelling. On your last day, visit the Réserve Naturelle Intégrale de Lokobe. Fly back to Tana on day 14.

Whether you’ve got two weeks or two months, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

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YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

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SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z ................. 248Transport ........................ 255Health .............................. 262Language ........................ 266Index ................................ 280Map Legend .................... 287

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

266

Madagascar has two official languages: Mala gasy and French. Malagasy is the every-day spoken language while French is often used for business and administrative pur-poses, and in the more upmarket sectors of the tourism industry. Unless you travel on an organised tour, stick to big hotels in major towns or speak Malagasy, some basic French will help you get by comfortably in the cities. In rural areas, where knowledge of French is less widespread, you may need to learn a bit of Malagasy too.

FRENCHThe sounds used in French can almost all be found in English. There are a couple of exceptions: nasal vowels (represented in our pronunciation guides by o or u followed by an almost inaudible nasal consonant sound m, n or ng), the ‘funny’ u (ew in our guides) and the deep-in-the-throat r. Bearing this in mind and reading our pronunciation guides as if they were English, you’ll be understood just fine.

Note that French has two words for ‘you’ – use the polite form vous unless you’re talking to close friends or children, in which case you’d use the informal tu. Of course, you can also use tu when a person invites you to do so.

All nouns in French are either masculine or feminine, and so are the adjectives and ar-ticles le/la (the) and un/une (a) that go with the nouns. We’ve included masculine and feminine forms where necessary, separated by a slash and indicated with ‘m/f’.

BasicsHello. Bonjour. bon·zhoorGoodbye. Aurevoir. o·rer·vwaExcuseme. Excusez-moi. ek·skew·zay·mwaSorry. Pardon. par·donYes. Oui. weeNo. Non. nonPlease. S’ilvousplaît. seel voo playThankyou. Merci. mair·see

Howareyou?Commentallez-vous? ko·mon ta·lay·vooFine,andyou?Bien,merci.Etvous? byun mair·see ay vooYou’rewelcome.Derien. der ree·enMynameis…Jem’appelle… zher ma·pel …What’syourname?Commentvous ko·mon voo·appelez-vous? za·play vooDoyouspeakEnglish?Parlez-vousanglais? par·lay·voo ong·glayIdon’tunderstand.Jenecomprendspas. zher ner kom·pron pa

AccommodationDoyouhaveanyroomsavailable?Est-cequevousavez es·ker voo za·vaydeschambreslibres? day shom·brer lee·brer

WANT MORE?For in-depth language information and handy phrases, check out Lonely Planet’s FrenchPhrasebookand AfricaPhrasebook. You’ll find them at shop.lonelyplanet.com, or you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone phrasebooks at the Apple App Store.

Language

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Emilie Filou, Paul Stiles

#_

NorthernMadagascar

p120

EasternMadagascar

p156

WesternMadagascar

p98

Antananarivop26

CentralMadagascar

p48

SouthernMadagascar

p72

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z ................. 248Transport ........................ 255Health .............................. 262Language ........................ 266Index ................................ 280Map Legend .................... 287

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

266

Madagascar has two official languages: Mala gasy and French. Malagasy is the every-day spoken language while French is often used for business and administrative pur-poses, and in the more upmarket sectors of the tourism industry. Unless you travel on an organised tour, stick to big hotels in major towns or speak Malagasy, some basic French will help you get by comfortably in the cities. In rural areas, where knowledge of French is less widespread, you may need to learn a bit of Malagasy too.

FRENCHThe sounds used in French can almost all be found in English. There are a couple of exceptions: nasal vowels (represented in our pronunciation guides by o or u followed by an almost inaudible nasal consonant sound m, n or ng), the ‘funny’ u (ew in our guides) and the deep-in-the-throat r. Bearing this in mind and reading our pronunciation guides as if they were English, you’ll be understood just fine.

Note that French has two words for ‘you’ – use the polite form vous unless you’re talking to close friends or children, in which case you’d use the informal tu. Of course, you can also use tu when a person invites you to do so.

All nouns in French are either masculine or feminine, and so are the adjectives and ar-ticles le/la (the) and un/une (a) that go with the nouns. We’ve included masculine and feminine forms where necessary, separated by a slash and indicated with ‘m/f’.

BasicsHello. Bonjour. bon·zhoorGoodbye. Aurevoir. o·rer·vwaExcuseme. Excusez-moi. ek·skew·zay·mwaSorry. Pardon. par·donYes. Oui. weeNo. Non. nonPlease. S’ilvousplaît. seel voo playThankyou. Merci. mair·see

Howareyou?Commentallez-vous? ko·mon ta·lay·vooFine,andyou?Bien,merci.Etvous? byun mair·see ay vooYou’rewelcome.Derien. der ree·enMynameis…Jem’appelle… zher ma·pel …What’syourname?Commentvous ko·mon voo·appelez-vous? za·play vooDoyouspeakEnglish?Parlez-vousanglais? par·lay·voo ong·glayIdon’tunderstand.Jenecomprendspas. zher ner kom·pron pa

AccommodationDoyouhaveanyroomsavailable?Est-cequevousavez es·ker voo za·vaydeschambreslibres? day shom·brer lee·brer

WANT MORE?For in-depth language information and handy phrases, check out Lonely Planet’s FrenchPhrasebookand AfricaPhrasebook. You’ll find them at shop.lonelyplanet.com, or you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone phrasebooks at the Apple App Store.

Language

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ANTANANARIVO . . . 26AROUND ANTANANARIVO . . . . . . . . .43Ivato . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43Ilafy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43Ambohimanga . . . . . . . . . . 43Lac Mantasoa . . . . . . . . . . . 45Ambatolampy & Around . . 46Lac Itasy & Around . . . . . . 47

CENTRAL MADAGASCAR . . . . . 48Antsirabe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50Ambositra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55Around Ambositra . . . . . . . 57Parc National de Ranomafana . . . . . . . . . . . . 57Fianarantsoa . . . . . . . . . . . . 60Around Fianarantsoa . . . . . 64Manakara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65Ambalavao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Parc National d’Andringitra & the Tsaranoro Valley . . . . . 68

SOUTHERN MADAGASCAR . . . . . .72THE DESERT . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74Parc National de l’Isalo . . . 74Ilakaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77THE GREAT REEF . . . . . . . . . 78Tuléar (Toliara) . . . . . . . . . . 79Northern Reef . . . . . . . . . . . 84Southern Reef . . . . . . . . . . . 88THE CAPE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91Itampolo to Fort Dauphin . . . . . . . . . . . . .91

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

Fort Dauphin (Taolagnaro) . . . . . . . . . . . . 93Around Fort Dauphin . . . . . 96

WESTERN MADAGASCAR . . . . . 98MAJUNGA (MAHAJANGA) . . . . . . . . . . .99AROUND MAJUNGA . . . . . 105North of Majunga . . . . . . . 105West of Majunga . . . . . . . . 105Parc National d’Ankarafantsika . . . . . . . . 107TSIRIBIHINA RIVER REGION . . . . . . . . . .108Miandrivazo . . . . . . . . . . . . 108Belo-sur-Tsiribihina . . . . . 108Parc National des Tsingy de Bemaraha . . . . .110MORONDAVA & AROUND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113Morondava. . . . . . . . . . . . . .113Réserve Forestière de Kirindy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116Belo-sur-Mer . . . . . . . . . . . . 117Parc National de Kirindy-Mitea . . . . . . . . .119

NORTHERN MADAGASCAR . . . . .120NOSY BE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Hell-Ville (Andoany) . . . . . .127Ambatoloaka . . . . . . . . . . . 130The West Coast . . . . . . . . . .131Mt Passot & Crater Lakes . . . . . . . . . . . 133ISLANDS AROUND NOSY BE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133

Nosy Komba . . . . . . . . . . . 133Nosy Tanikely . . . . . . . . . . 134Nosy Sakatia . . . . . . . . . . . 134Nosy Mitsio . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Nosy Iranja . . . . . . . . . . . . 135AMBANJA &AROUND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Ambanja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Ankify . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Ambilobe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136DIEGO SUAREZ & AROUND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Diego Suarez (Antsiranana) . . . . . . . . . . .137Diego to Ramena . . . . . . . 143Ramena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Les Trois Baies (The Three Bays) . . . . . . . 144La Mer d’Emeraude . . . . . 145Joffreville (Ambohitra) . . 146Parc National Montagne d’Ambre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .147Parc National de l’Ankarana . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148SAVA REGION . . . . . . . . . . . 151Sambava . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151Parc National de Marojejy . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Antalaha. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154

EASTERN MADAGASCAR . . . . .156MORAMANGA TO BRICKAVILLE . . . . . . . . . . . 158Moramanga . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Andasibe Area Parks . . . . 159Brickaville . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162

PANGALANES LAKES . . . . 162Lac Ampitabe (Akanin’ny Nofy) & Vohibola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Lac Rasoamasay . . . . . . . 166Lac Rasobe & Manambato . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Ambila-Lemaitso . . . . . . . 166TAMATAVE (TOAMASINA) . . . . . . . . . . . 167NORTH OF TAMATAVE . . . . 172Parc Zoologique Ivoloina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .172Foulpointe (Mahavelona) . . . . . . . . . . .172Mahambo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173Fenoarivo-Atsinanana (Fénérive Est) . . . . . . . . . . .173Soanierana-Ivongo . . . . . . .173Manompana . . . . . . . . . . . .175ILE SAINTE MARIE . . . . . . . 175Ambodifotatra . . . . . . . . . .178South of Ambodifotatra . 180Ile aux Nattes (Nosy Nato) . . . . . . . . . . . . .181North of Ambodifotatra . . . . . . . . . 182BAIE D’ANTONGIL & MASOALA PENINSULA . . . 183Mananara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Maroantsetra . . . . . . . . . . 185Réserve de Nosy Mangabe . . . . . . . . . 188Parc National de Masoala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188

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Read more about Emilie at:lonelyplanet.com/members/emiliefi lou

Read more about Paul at:lonelyplanet.com/members/paulwstiles

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Emilie Filou Coordinating Author, Plan Your Trip, Antananarivo, Western Madagascar, Northern Madagascar (except SAVA Region), Madagascar Today, History, Malagasy Life, Arts, Malagasy Cuisine, Environment, Parks & Reserves, Directory A–Z, Transport, Health Emilie fi rst travelled to Africa at age eight to visit her grandparents, who had taken up a late-career opportunity in Mali. Many more trips and a geography degree later, Emilie now works as a freelance journalist focusing on develop-

ment issues in Africa. Her most memorable moments in Madagascar include singing and dancing around the campfi re on the banks of the Tsiribihina River, sitting on somebody’s lap in a full-to-bursting taxi-brousse and striking up a conversation with the ‘host’, driving from Belo to Moron-dava (with no breaks) and revelling in the supremely beautiful landscapes around Nosy Be.

Paul Stiles Central Madagascar, Southern Madagascar, Eastern Madagascar, SAVA Region (Northern Madagascar) When he was 21, Paul bought an old motorcycle in London and took off on the adventure of a lifetime, ending up in Tunisia. That did it for him. Since then he’s explored 60 countries, including four wonderful years in the Canary Islands, and currently inhabits the rocky coast of Scotland. With a passion for exotic travel, ecotourism and islands, he’s roamed from Morocco to

Hawaii for Lonely Planet. For this book he made a marathon 4WD journey along the Great Reef, trekked into Marojejy and climbed Pic Boby, where he left his compass in the box at the summit.

Contributing Author David Lukas David Lukas wrote the Wildlife section. David is a freelance naturalist who lives next to Yosemite National Park in California. He writes extensively about the world’s wildlife, and has contributed wildlife chapters for eight African Lonely Planet guides, ranging from Ethiopia & Eritrea to South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland. He also wrote A Year of Watching Wildlife, which covers the top places in the world to view wildlife.

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9837th edition – March 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 175 4© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Itiner-aries

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•

•

IND IANO C E AN

Ambositra

Tuléar(Toliara)

ANTANANARIVO

Antsirabe

#÷

#÷#÷

Parc Nationalde Ranomafana

Parc Nationald'Andringitra

ParcNationalde l'Isalo

#•#÷#•Nosy Be Réserve Naturelle Intégrale de Lokobe

Nosy KombaNosy Tanikely #•

#–

#–

#•

É

É

É

É

É

Two WeeksEssential Madagascar

A combination of the classic RN7 with some island R&R. On day one, head down to the highland town of Antsirabe, with its wide colonial streets and colourful rickshaws.

On day two, wind your way down to Parc National de Ranomafana through the highland’s scenic landscapes, stopping en route at the arts-and-crafts capital Am-

bositra. Spend day three hiking and searching for lemurs in Ranomafana’s rainforest. On day four, drive to the superb Parc National d’Andringitra; spend the next two days on the Imarivolanitra trail, which takes in the summit of Pic Boby, Madagascar’s second-highest peak.

On the seventh day, drive to Parc National de l’Isalo; spend day eight exploring the park’s desert plains and canyons. On day nine, it’s a long drive to Tuléar (Toliara). On day 10, fl y to Antananarivo (Tana), and then on to Nosy Be. Spend the morning at the beach and take a quad bike tour of the hinterland in the afternoon. On day 12, take a day trip to Nosy Komba and Nosy Tanikely for unrivalled snorkelling. On your last day, visit the Réserve Naturelle Intégrale de Lokobe. Fly back to Tana on day 14.

Whether you’ve got two weeks Whether you’ve got two weeks or two months, these itineraries or two months, these itineraries provide a starting point for the provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.chat with other travellers.

19

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ITIN

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RIES

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Diego Suarez (Antsiranana)

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Park Nationald'Andasibe-Mantadia

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INDIA NOCEA N

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É

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#•

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East CoastThe North

Two WeeksThe North

Northern Madagascar off ers rainfor-est hikes, spectacular rock forma-tions and tantalising white beaches.

Fly to Sambava; head out early to Parc National de Marojejy the next day and spend a couple of days trekking in this sensational massif. It’s a day’s drive from Sambava to the beautiful Parc National de l’Ankarana, a wilderness of caves, pinna-cles and dry forests. Spend a day in the park and continue on to the northern belle of Di-ego Suarez (Antsiranana), with a stop at the terracotta-coloured Tsingy Rouges on the way.

Take a day to discover Diego’s heritage and explore the wild coastline of Les Trois Baies near Ramena. Take another day trip to the mountainous Parc National Mon-tagne d’Ambre.

From Diego, it’s half a day’s drive to Am-banja, where you should visit the cocoa and spice plantations before boarding a boat at Ankify for Nosy Be. Spend three or four days enjoying the coral reefs and beaches and make sure you put a day aside for the fabulous Réserve Naturelle Intégrale de Lokobe. Fly back to Tana from Nosy Be.

2½ WeeksEast Coast

Exploring this part of the country is challenging but by no means impos-sible, although budget travellers will balk at the cost of travelling beyond

Ile Sainte Marie, which is accessible by pri-vate 4WD or internal fl ight only.

Head east along the paved RN2 to the charming village of Andasibe, jumping-off point for the luxuriant, misty rainforests of Andasibe area parks. Spend at least a couple of days waking to the cries of the legendary in-dri (Madagascar’s largest lemur), hiking and birdwatching before winding down the RN2 to the coast. In Manambato, organise a tour of Canal des Pangalanes, the picturesque gateway to the waterways and lakes. Travel to Tamatave (Toamasina) by cargo boat.

From Tamatave, fl y to gorgeous Ile Sainte Marie and stay at the terminally laid-back Ile aux Nattes. Tour the island by quad or motorbike and take a whale-watching trip (July to September).

If you relish a challenge, take a boat to Soanierana-Ivongo and drive the infamous RN5 (4WD only) to Maroantsetra (two days). Spend a night at Nosy Mangabe and a couple of nights in the pristine Parc National de Masoala. Fly back to Tana from Maroant-setra or on to Sambava in the northeast.

20

PLAN YO

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ÉÉ

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The Wild WestRoute du Sud

Three WeeksRoute du Sud

This classic route will whisk you from Antananarivo down to Tuléar along the famed RN7.

First stop is Antsirabe, where you should take a pousse-pousse (rickshaw) tour and explore Sabotsy market. Drive down to Fianarantsoa through spectacular moun-tain scenery. The next day, hop on the FCE train to Manakara; stay on the beach for a couple of nights and tour the Canal des Pangalanes.

Drive back to the RN7 to visit Parc Na-tional de Ranomafana and hike in the park’s rainforest. Time your visit to the high-land town of Ambalavao to coincide with Madagascar’s largest zebu market, then spend a few days hiking among the granite peaks of Parc National d’Andringitra.

Further south is another wonderful pro-tected area, Parc National de l’Isalo, with jagged sandstone massifs and cool canyons.

Stop at the sapphire boomtown of Ilaka-ka on your way to the coast. Eschew Tuléar and head straight for the perfect beaches of Anakao or Ifaty, and the Great Reef. From Tuléar, you can fl y back to Antananarivo or travel on to Fort Dauphin or Morondava.

Two WeeksThe Wild West

This itinerary requires some plan-ning ahead but once you’ve got your boat and your 4WD booked, you’ll be off in a fl ash.

Book a descent of the Tsiribihina River. Trips start from Miandrivazo, a day’s drive from Antananarivo. From there, it takes two and a half days to drift down to Belo-sur-Tsiribihina.

Arrange for a 4WD and driver to meet you at the boat landing in Belo and con-tinue north to Parc National des Tsingy de Bemaraha. You’ll need at least two days to explore the Grands and Petits Tsingy. It’s then a day’s drive through scorched land-scape down to Réserve Forestière de Ki-rindy, home to the elusive fossa and the gi-ant jumping rat. Make sure to go on a night walk. On your way to Morondava, stop at the iconic Allée des Baobabs.

After a day recuperating in the laid-back seaside town of Morondava, head down to the fi shing village of Belo-sur-Mer for a couple of days. You can then drive on to Tuléar (during the dry season only), or go back to Morondava and fl y or drive back to Antananarivo.

21

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