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I SBN 978 -1 -74179 -602 -5

9 781741 796025

99425

2ND EDITIONPublished Jun 2013First Published Apr 1009

USA $24.99 UK £14.99

How to Use This Book

Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:

These symbols give vital information for each listing:

Must-visit recommendation

Sustainable or green recommendation

No payment required

SURVIVAL GUIDEYour at-a-glance referenceVital practical informationfor a smooth trip.

162

DIRECTORY A–Z C

LIMATE

163

DIRECTORY A–Z D

ISC

OU

NT C

AR

DS

available, but it’s best to check

in advance. The same goes for

car seats at rental car agen-

cies or taxi companies. Car

seats aren’t legally required,

but given the dangers on the

roads you should consider

bringing your own. Highchairs

are the exception rather than

the rule at restaurants.

You won’t find children’s

menus but the ubiquity of

kid-friendly favourites like

pasta, pizza and hot chips

(fries) makes mealtime easy.

Babysitting services are only

offered in the most exclusive

five-star hotels. Disposable nappies (espe-

cially Pampers and Huggies)

are easy to find. Infant formula

is available in the bigger super-

markets, but it’s a good idea

to bring a few days’ supply

with you. The main brands are

Bebelac and Nestle; you can

sometimes find Aptamil too.

You’ll rarely see anyone

breastfeeding in public, but

given that this is encouraged

here you’re unlikely to strike

negative reactions. You’re best

to bring sufficient breast pads

with you, as they’re hard to

find in Montenegro. Medical care is generally

very good, but language diffi-

culties can present problems.

Every town has a medical

centre (Dom zdravlja). They

generally have a separate

section for children with two

waiting rooms: one for kids

with potentially contagious in-

fections and one dealing with

broken bones and the like.

Older offspring should

have a blast in Montenegro,

with the relatively safe envi-

ronment allowing them off

the leash a little. You may

find that they’re kicking a ball

around with the local scally-

wags in no time. The opposite

is true for toddlers and small

children as a generally lower

standard of safety regulations

(missing railings, unfenced

pools etc) means you’ll have

to keep a closer eye on them.

You’ll struggle to get

pushchairs along the cobbled

lanes and stairways in the

older towns and you’ll often

find yourself having to trundle

them along dangerous roads

due to parked cars blocking

the footpaths. Still, bringing a

pram is a good idea, if only so

you can join the legions of par-

ents promenading with their

babies on summer nights.

Any hurdles you may strike

will be insignificant compared

to the wonderfully family-

friendly atmosphere, fresh air

and gently lapping Mediterra-

nean waters that Montenegro

provides. Lonely Planet’s

Travel With Children offers

further tips for hitting the

road with the brood in tow.

Customs Regulations

To stop tourists from

neighbouring countries

bringing all their holiday

groceries with them, Monte-

negro restricts the quantity

of food which can be brought

into the country to 1kg.

Restrictions apply to

entering with tobacco (200

cigarettes or 20 cigars or

250g tobacco), alcohol (1L

of wine and 1L of spirits) and

perfume (250ml).

Amounts greater than

€2000 of cash or travellers

cheques must be declared

when leaving the country. If

you’re entering with a large

sum and think you might

have more than €2000 left

when you leave, complete a

currency declaration form

on arrival or you may find

your money confiscated on

departure.

Drug laws are similar

to most other European

countries. Possession or

trafficking of drugs could

result in a lengthy jail

sentence.

When you enter the

country you need to receive

an entry stamp in your

passport. If you don’t, you

may be detained or fined

when you seek to leave for

entering the country illegally.

Discount Cards The International Student

Identity Card (ISIC; www.

isic.org), issued to full-time

students 12 years and

over, entitles the bearer

to discounts on train trips

and some admission

charges, shops, eateries,

accommodation and other

services in Montenegro. Get

them from student unions,

hostelling organisations and

some travel agencies.

The same organisation

issues the International

Youth Travel Card (IYTC;

available to people who

are between 12 and 26

years of age and not full-

time students) and the

International Teacher

Identity Card (ITIC; available

to teaching professionals),

both of which give similar

discounts to the ISIC.

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates For a full list of foreign mis-

sions in Montenegro, see

www.mip.gov.me. The fol-

lowing are all in Podgorica,

unless otherwise stated:

Albanian Embassy (Map

p 100 ; %020-667 380; www.

mfa.gov.al; Stanka Dragojevi a

14) Bosnia & Hercegovinian Embassy (Map p 100 ; %020-

618 105; www.mvp.gov.ba;

Atinska 58) Croatian Embassy & Consulate (www.mvep.hr)

Podgorica (%020-269 760;

Vladimira etkovi a 2) Kotor

(Map p 46 ; %032-323 127; Trg

od oružja bb) French Embassy (Map p 100 ;

%020-655 348; Atinska 35)

German Embassy (Map

p 100 ; %020-441 000; www.auswaertiges-amt.de;

Hercegova ka 10)

Serbian Embassy & Con-sulate Podgorica (Map p 100 ;

%020-667 305; www.podgor

ica.mfa.gov.rs; Hercegova ka

18) Herceg Novi (Map p 36 ;

%031-350 320; www.herceg

novi.mfa.gov.rs; Njegoševa 40)

UK Embassy (%020-618

010; www.ukinmontenegro.fco.

gov.uk; Ulcinjska 8)

USA Embassy (Map p 100 ;

%020-410 500; http://podgorica.usembassy.gov;

Ljubljanska bb)

The following countries are

represented from offices in

nearby countries:

Australian Embassy (%00-

381-11-330 3400; www.serbia.

embassy.gov.au; Vladimira

Popovi a 38-40, Novi Beograd,

Belgrade, Serbia)

Canadian Embassy (%00-

381-11-306 3000; www.canada.

rs; Kneza Miloša 75, Belgrade,

Serbia) Irish Embassy (%00-361-

301 4960; www.dfa.ie; Szabad-

sag ter 7, Bank Center, Gránit

Tower, Budapest, Hungary)

The Netherlands Embassy

(%00-381-11-202 3900; www.

nlembassy.rs; Simina 29,

Belgrade, Serbia)

Food See The Montenegrin Kitch-

en (p 154 ) for information

about local cuisine. If you’re ordering fish by

the kilogram, a standard por-

tion is around 200g to 250g;

ask for a rough price before

you choose a fish if you’re

unsure.

220V/50Hz

220V/50Hz

Climate

F

DNOSAJJMAMJ

Podgorica°C/°F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm

0

12/300

8/200

4/10010/50

0/32

-10/14

30/86

40/104

20/68

F

DNOSAJJMAMJ

Kotor°C/°F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm

0

12/300

8/200

4/10010/50

0/32

-10/14

30/86

40/104

20/68

F

DNOSAJJMAMJ

Bijelo Polje°C/°F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm

0

12/300

8/200

4/10010/50

0/32

-10/14

30/86

40/104

20/68

EATING PRICE RANGES

The price indicators

used in this book are

based on the co of

the cheape dish on

the menu which could

be considered a main

meal, regardless of

whether it is labelled as

a main.

€ up to €5

€€ €5 to €8

€€€ over €9

UNDERSTANDGet more from your tripLearn about the big picture, to make sense of what you see.

The Never-Changing Goverment

In the 2012 general election, the Democratic Party of So-

cialists (DPS) fell two seats short of ruling in their own

right but quickly formed a coalition with ethnic Bosniak

(South-Slav Muslim), Albanian and Croat parties to form

a government (ethnicity still plays a large role in politi-

cal affiliation here). What’s extraordinary about this is

that the DPS has won every single vote since multiparty

elections were established in 1990, marking the end of

communism in Yugoslavia.

It’s even more extraordinary if you consider that the

DPS was born out of Montenegro’s Communist Party –

so you could argue that it’s been in power continuously

since 1945 in one form or other. However, today’s DPS

is a long way from communist, having embarked on an

enthusiastic and often controversial campaign of priva-

tisations since the demise of Yugoslavia.

One factor in the DPS’s success is the charismatic fig-

ure of returning Prime Minister Milo ukanovi . As a

tall (198cm), handsome 26-year-old he was part of the

‘anti-bureaucratic revolution’ that took control of the

Community Party in 1989. At the age of 29 he became

the first prime minister of post-Communist Monte-

negro and apart from a few years of ‘retirement’ he has

been prime minister or president ever since. However,

Ðukanovi remains a controversial figure. While still

president he was investigated by an Italian anti-mafia

unit and charged for his alleged role in a billion dol-

lar cigarette-smuggling operation; the charges were

dropped in 2009. Part of the DPS’s continued popularity is the role it

played in gaining Montenegro its independence. Sev-

eral of the main opposition parties, especially the Serb-

aligned parties, were strongly opposed to the break with

Serbia, and although most have publicly dropped their

anti-independence stance, many voters remain wary

of their intentions. In the latest election a new non-

ethnic, pro-independence party Pozitivna Crna Gora

won 8% of the vote, and arguably it’s parties such as

these that will provide a new form of political choice

for the electorate in the future.

The Big Issues In 2012, thousands of people took to the streets of

Podgorica in a series of marches protesting against

corruption, organised crime and the worsening econ-

omy. Montenegro hasn’t been spared the effects of

the international economic crisis. The rapid growth

that followed independence has slowed, unemploy-

ment has shot up and average incomes remain low.

Foreign Affairs magazine recently published an es-

say describing Montenegro as a ‘mafia state’. While

that might be overdramatising the situation, the Eu-

ropean Commission noted in its 2012 Montenegro

Progress Report that ‘corruption remains widespread

and continues to be a serious cause for concern, hin-

dering law enforcement investigations of organised

crime’. The commission did, however, note that ‘some

progress has been made on fighting corruption’ since

its previous report.

NATO & the EU Meanwhile, Montenegro has been pushing ahead

with its goal to join both the North Atlantic Treaty

Organisation ( NATO) and the European Union (EU).

Shortly after independence Montenegro applied to

join them and in June 2012 it opened formal acces-

sion negotiations with the EU.

While most Montenegrins strongly favour EU

membership, joining NATO is much more conten-

tious. Memories of the NATO bombing of Serbia

during the Kosovo conflict are still fresh. In a recent

interview with Dan newspaper, Metropolitan Am-

filohije of the Serbian Orthodox Church spoke out

against joining, describing NATO as an organisation

that ‘exerts violence on the entire world’. However,

the Montenegrin government has stood firm in its re-

solve, publicly stating that it expects to be invited to

join the alliance in 2014.

Be on Film Casino Royale (2006) James Bond

plays poker in a casino in Montenegro;

suspend your disbelief, as the Monte-

negro scenes were actually lmed in

Italy and the Czech Republic.

The Battle of Neretva (1969) Featur-

ing a stellar cast including Yul Brynner

and Orson Welles, this movie garnered

an Academy Award nomination. It’s

set and lmed across the border in

Bosnia, but director Veljko Bulaji was

born in (what is now) Montenegro.

Be in Print The Son (Andrej Nikolaidis; 2011) Set

in Ulcinj over the course of a single

night, this novel won a European

Union Prize for Literature.

Realm of the Black Mountain (Eliza-

beth Roberts; 2007) An interesting

and detailed dissection of Monte-

negro’s convoluted history.

Montenegro: A Novel (Starling Law-

rence; 1997) An entertaining tale of

politics, bloodshed and romance set

at the dawn of the 20th century.

Black Lamb and Grey Falcon (Re-

becca West; 1941) One of the classics

of travel literature.

When Montenegro chose to part ways from Serbia in 2006, it was a brave move – especially

given its tiny population. But toughing it out is something these gutsy people have had

plenty of experience with. Montenegro’s national identity was built around resisting the

Ottoman Empire for hundreds of years in a mountainous enclave much smaller than the

nation’s current borders. Determined to hold on to its regained independence, Montenegro

has set a course towards the European Union.

MontenegroToday

USAUK

≈ 1 person

Montenegro

population per sq km

POPULATION: 626,000

AREA: 13,812 SQ KM

GDP PER CAPITA: €5211

ECONOMIC GROWTH: 0.5%

(2012 ESTIMATE)

UNEMPLOYMENT: 20%

AVERAGE MONTHLY WAGE:

€491

45 would identify as Montenegrin

29 would identify as Serb

12 would identify as Bosniak/Muslim

5 would identify as Albanian

9 are undeclared or another ethnicity

if Montenegro were100 people

belief systems(% of population)

Other

OrthodoxChristian

Undeclared

Muslim

Atheist

RomanCatholic

72 19

3 2 1

3

137

136

ON THE ROADYour complete guideExpert reviews, easy-to-use maps and insider tips.

Why Go? Coming from Croatia, the Bay of Kotor (Boka Kotorska, or

simply ‘the Boka’) starts simply enough, but as you progress

through fold upon fold of the bay and the surrounding

mountains get steeper and steeper, the beauty meter gets

close to bursting. It’s often described as the Mediterranean’s

only fjord and even though the geological label is not strictly

correct, the mental image that phrase conjures is spot on.

The Boka’s compact size means that you can choose a

base and put down roots for a week or two, spending your

days exploring its hidden nooks. Active types can spend

their time kayaking, mountain biking and hiking. Culture

vultures can search out interesting art in the museums and

numerous churches. History buffs can soak in the ambience

of the remnants of the various empires that have passed

through. Whatever your angle, there’s no escaping the ro-

mance of this breathtaking bay.

When to Go May is mainly dry and sees mild temperatures and

fragrant Mediterranean foliage in bloom.

June is the best month, with temperatures in the high

20s, low rainfall and off-peak prices.

The hottest and driest months, July and August, are the

busiest and most expensive.

Bay of Kotor

BAY OF KO

TOR

BAY OF KO

TOR

BAY OF KO

TOR

Best Places to Eat

Konoba atovi a Mlini

(p 41 )

Konoba Feral (p 38 )

Galion (p 49 )

One (p 54 )

Restaurant Conte (p 42 )

Best Places to Sleep

Old Town Hostel (p 48 )

Camp Full Monte (p 39 )

Palazzo Radomiri (p 43 )

Forza Mare (p 44 )

Villa Kristina (p 56 )

Herceg Novi . . . . . . . . .35

Morinj . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

Risan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

Perast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

Dobrota . . . . . . . . . . . .43

Kotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Pr anj . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

Stoliv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

Lastva . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

Tivat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

Luštica Peninsula . . . .55

History While it overlaps at times, this geographically

compact area’s history stands at a slight

remove from that of the rest of Montenegro.

Like most of the eastern Adriatic, the Boka

was populated by the Illyrian tribes. The

bay subsequently became part of the Ro-

man province of Dalmatia and before long

lavish Roman villas sprang up along Risan’s

waterfront. By the end of the 5th century,

with the empire crumbling under barbarian

incursions from the north, the Bay of Kotor

briefly fell into the hands of the Ostrogoths

and then the Slavic tribes.

The Slavic clans of the Boka lived in vir-

tual city states, maintaining allegiances to

both the west (Rome) and east (Byzantium).

Kotor was eventually incorporated into the

principality of Duklja, considered a forerun-

ner of modern Montenegro. At the time of

the momentous split between the western

(Catholic) and eastern (Orthodox) churches

in 1054, Duklja was politically tied to Rome,

but by 1190 was annexed by Raška (soon

to be known as Serbia) and an Orthodox

bishopric was established. Kotor and Perast,

however, continued to have a largely Catho-

lic population and to exercise a degree of

autonomy. In 1379 Bosnian King Tvrtko assailed the

Bay of Kotor. Kotor resisted by aligning it-

self with Venice but the Bosnians took large

parts of the bay and in 1382 founded the

port town of Herceg Novi. By 1463 Bosnia,

together with its territory in the Boka, had

fallen to the Ottomans Turks.

Kotor survived a siege by the Ottomans

in 1538 with the assistance of supplies from

Montenegro (now established in the moun-

tains behind it). Risan wasn’t so lucky, fall-

ing the following year. In 1570 the bubonic

plague hit, killing upwards of 3500 people in

Kotor, but the hardy citizens were still able

to resist another Ottoman attack in 1572,

once again with the help of Venice and Mon-

tenegro. The Ottomans tried again in 1657,

this time with 10,000 men, but were forced

to abandon the siege after only 22 days.

It took a hajduk (outlaw) chieftain, Bajo

Pivljanin, to put an end to 145 years of Ot-

toman occupation of Risan. Shortly after,

the Ottomans were completely pushed out

of the Boka, with the control of the entire

bay passing into the hands of the Venetians,

where it remained until Napoleon’s disman-

tling of the republic in 1797.

In 1813 the people of the Boka, unhappy

with the prospect of falling under French

rule, joined for the first time with Montene-

gro and their allies Russia. This only lasted

a year until Russia agreed to hand the Boka

back to the French. A few years later Mon-

tenegro, with the aid of Britain this time,

succeeded in wrestling the Boka off them

but again Russia intervened, this time pass-

ing the control back to Austria.

Throughout the period of Venetian and

Austrian rule the Boka was considered part

of Dalmatia (a coastal province of today’s

Croatia), as it was in Roman times. However,

before the advent of nationalism in the 19th

century, the people of the bay were more

likely to be described as ‘Bokelj’ than by

terms such as Serb or Croat. Religion gradu-

ally became the defining factor of ethnic-

ity, with Orthodox Christians identifying as

Serbs and the Catholics as Croats. The Boka

had always accommodated a mixed popula-

tion – some churches even had dual Catholic

and Orthodox altars – so the emerging pan-

Slavic movement found fertile ground and

the post-WWI formation of the Kingdom of

Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later Yugoslavia)

was generally welcomed by the locals.

It wasn’t until after WWII that the Boka

became part of Montenegro, one of the six

republics which constituted the Socialist

Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. Since then

the Catholic/Croat population has reduced

substantially, especially since the wars of

the 1990s. In 1910 Herceg Novi, Perast, Do-

brota, Kotor, Pr anj, Tivat and Budva all had

a Catholic majority. Today Catholics number

only 10% of the Bay of Kotor’s population.

Climate The weather in the outer section of the bay

isn’t markedly different from the pleas-

ant Mediterranean climate of the coast.

Southwest-facing Tivat has a reputation for

being one of the sunniest spots. Cloud of-

ten drapes the high cliffs of the inner bay.

Crkvice in the Orjen massif above Risan is

said to have the highest rainfall in Europe,

averaging 5300mL per annum. The record

was in 1937 when it hit 8065mL. Luckily

the karstic nature of the terrain causes the

water to disappear into the limestone rather

than flooding the towns below.

8 Getting There & Away

Jadranski Put (Adriatic Hwy) connects the

Bay of Kotor to Dubrovnik and to Budva. A new

33

4 easy-to-use sections

PLAN YOUR TRIPYour planning tool kitPhotos and suggestions to help you create the perfect trip.

PAU

L BR

IRS

/ GE

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Y IMA

GES

©

GR

EG H

AH

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ET

TY IM

AG

ES ©

Sveti Stefan

1 The postcard-perfect walled island vil-

lage of Sveti Stefan (p 73 ) is a wonder to

behold. It’s a little slice of Mediterranean

heaven, with oleanders, pines and olive

trees peeking between the terracotta roofs

of pink stone dwellings. Content yourself

with the views, as access to the island is

limited to guests of the exclusive resort

that owns it. Instead, laze on the beach,

take a stroll through the woods to Pržno,

and go crazy taking photographs – it’s

hard to get a bad shot.

Njegoš Mausoleum

2 Once upon a time there was a Black

Mountain. And on top of that mountain

there was a tomb guarded by two granite

giantesses. And inside the tomb, under a

canopy of gold, there rests a great hero,

lying in the arms of a giant eagle... This

fairy-tale location is the nal resting place

for the very real 19th-century vladika

(bishop-prince) Petar II Petrovi Njegoš.

The simple but a ecting structure (p 89 )

and monumental statuary do little to dis-

tract from the remarkable views over all of

Old Montenegro.

Montenegro’s

Top 16

9

8

1

2

3

4For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.

All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, start-ing with their most preferred option. Additionally:

Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference.

Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by author preference.

1 Sights

2 Activities

C Courses

T Tours

z Festivals &Events

4 Sleeping

5 Eating

6 Drinking

3 Entertainment

7 Shopping

8 Information & Transport

% Telephone numberh Opening hoursp Parkingn Nonsmokinga Air-conditioning

i Internet accessW Wi-fi accesss Swimming pool

v Vegetarian selectionE English-language menuc Family-friendly# Pet-friendlyg Busf Ferryj Tramd Train

montenegro-2-cover.indd 2montenegro-2-cover.indd 2 1/03/2013 2:19:15 PM1/03/2013 2:19:15 PM

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Peter DragičevićVesna Marić

Montenegro

#̂

NorthernMountains

p107

Bay ofKotor

p32

AdriaticCoast

p61

CentralMontenegro

p88p122

Dubrovnik(Croatia)

#̂

NorthernMountains

p107

Bay ofKotor

p32

AdriaticCoast

p61

CentralMontenegro

p88Dubrovnik

(Croatia)p122

On the Road

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ELE

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ON

Peter DragičevićCoordinating Author; Bay of Kotor, Adriatic Coast, Central Montenegro, Northern Mountains After a dozen years working for newspapers and magazines in both his native New Zealand and Australia, Peter finally gave in to Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his typically antipodean diverse roots around much of Europe. While it was family ties that first drew him to the Balkans, it’s the his-tory, natural beauty, convoluted politics, cheap rakija and, most importantly, the

intriguing people, that keep bringing him back. He wrote the very first edition of this book when the country was freshly independent and has contributed to literally dozens of other Lonely Planet titles, including four successive editions of the Eastern Europe guide.

Contributing WriterVesna Marić wrote the Dubrovnik (Croatia) chapter. Vesna was born in Bosnia and Hercegovina while it was still a part of Yugoslavia, and she has never been able to see Croatia as a foreign coun-try. A lifetime lover of Dalmatia’s beaches, pine trees, food and wine, she found researching this chapter a true delight.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use .

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9832nd edition – June 2013ISBN 978 1 74179 602 5© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 201310 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved . No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher . Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries . Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels . Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet .com/ip .

Taking in the country’s most emblematic sights, this 425km trip requires a car. Montenegro is teensy-weensy, so a short journey clear across the country is suggested, giving a taste of the mountains and a day’s rafting. Note, rafting is only possible between April and October.

Start in Herceg Novi (p35) and slowly wind your way towards Kotor (p44), allow-ing at least an hour in Perast (p41) en route. All three are ancient bayside towns filled with old churches and marbled squares. The next morning, take the dazzling drive to the former Montenegrin capital Cetinje (p91) through Lovćen National Park, stopping to visit the Njegoš Mausoleum (p90) on the way. Continue north through the Piva Canyon to Šćepan Polje (p114), the main staging point for one-day rafts of the river, and stay the night at one of the rafting camps.

Hit the Tara River the next morning on a half-day’s rafting trip, then drive to the dra-matically positioned Ostrog Monastery (p104). Continue on to Podgorica (p99) and celebrate the day’s achievements in the capital’s bars. On day four, continue to Virpazar (p95) for a chilled-out cruise on Lake Skadar. Carry on down to Sveti Stefan (p73), check into somewhere with an island view and head to the beach. Spend your last day in Budva (p63), exploring the Stari Grad (Old Town) and lazing on the sand.

Essential Montenegro

ALBANIA

BOSNIA &HERCEGOVINA

KOSOVO

CROATIA

SERBIA

ADR IAT I CSEA

SvetiStefan Virpazar

ŠćepanPolje

KotorCetinje

HercegNovi

Budva

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Itineraries

5 DAYS

23

The Full Monte

#•

ALBANIA

BOSNIA &HERCEGOVINA

KOSOVO

CROATIA

SERBIA

ADR IAT I CSEA

Sveti StefanVirpazar

ŠćepanPolje

KotorCetinje

HercegNovi

Budva

PODGORICA

Kolašin

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Biogradska GoraNational Park

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2 WEEKS

Most of Montenegro’s big-hitting beauty spots are covered in this 770km itinerary. We haven’t attempted to be too prescriptive about where you should stop for the night, and the schedule has room for a couple of days to linger in places you enjoy.

Base yourself in Herceg Novi (p35) and take a boat or kayak trip to Rose, Mamula Island, the Blue Grotto and the beaches of the Luštica Peninsula. Stop at Morinj and Risan on your way to Perast (p41), and don’t miss the boat trip to Gospa od Škrpjela is-land. Continue to Kotor (p44) and use the walled town as a base to visit Dobrota, Prčanj and Stoliv. Then head through Lovćen National Park to Cetinje (p91), stopping in Ostrog Monastery (p104) on the way to a rafting trip at Šćepan Polje (p114). Instead of heading straight back to Podgorica after the rafting trip, take the scenic road east from Plužine through Durmitor National Park to Žabljak (p113). Allow some time to enjoy the park and, at a minimum, make sure you hike around the Black Lake.

Follow the road along the Tara River to the isolated Dobrilovina Monastery then con-tinue on to Biogradska Gora National Park (p111) – you can stay in the cabins here or continue on to the upmarket hotels in Kolašin (p109). Stop at the Morača Monastery on your way to Podgorica (p99), then hang out in the capital for a day. Continue down to Virpazar (p95) for a morning’s cruise on Lake Skadar, then head on to Murići. Skirt the Rumija Mountains until the road shies away from the Albanian border and hooks down to the buzzy beachside town of Ulcinj (p82). Be sure to visit Velika Plaža before continu-ing back up the coast. Stop to check out the charming ruins of Stari Bar (p81) before heading on to the family-friendly beach town of Petrovac (p74). Continue along the coast, stopping at the beaches of Sveti Stefan (p73) and Pržno (p72) before finishing up in Budva (p63), with its walled Old Town and busy beachfront promenade

If you’re travelling by bus, you’ll need to pare back the itinerary a little. From Kotor, the easiest way to Cetinje, Ostrog or rafting is on a day-tour. Swap the Plužine–Žabljak road for a Nikšić–Žabljak bus. To get from Žabljak to Kolašin you’ll need to go via Pljevlja or Podgorica. From Virpazar take a train to Bar followed by a bus to Ulcinj.

24

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

erarIes

The Coast

Perast

Petrovac

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Kotor

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Ulcinj

HercegNovi

Budva

Cetinje

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É

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1 WEEK

Spend a day in Herceg Novi (p35) and consider taking a kayak tour or a boat to the beaches on the Luštica Peninsula. The following day, make your way slowly to Kotor, stopping to view the Roman mosaics at Risan (p41) and the Baroque beauty of Perast (p41). Base yourself in Kotor (p44) on day three; consider climbing the fortifications, hiking the Vrmac Ridge, exploring the neighbouring coastal villages or just hanging out in the fascinating Old Town.

If you’ve got a car, take the serpentine road up to Lovćen National Park, ascend the steps to the Njegoš Mausoleum and spend the rest of the day exploring the museums and galleries of Cetinje (p91) before heading on to Budva (p63) for the night. If you’re trav-elling by bus, head straight to Budva and save Cetinje for another day.

For the following two days base yourself anywhere on the 20km stretch of coast between Budva and Petrovac. The advantages of Budva include its old walled town and its nightlife, and it’s the easiest place to arrange day tours to Ostrog Monastery and Lake Skadar, or a Tara River rafting trip. Petrovac (p74) is more family-friendly, with a more relaxed vibe and great beaches nearby. Close neighbours Pržno (p72) and Sveti Stefan (p73) have excellent accommodation at every price level, great restaurants, and striking coastal views.

No matter where you put down roots, make sure you take the walk through the woods from Sveti Stefan to Pržno. A car or bike will get you to hidden bays such as Drobni Pijesak and Rijeka Reževići, and there are several monasteries to explore, including Pod-maine and Podostrog, near Budva, and Reževići and Gradište, near Petrovac.

Continuing southeast along the coast, visit the ruins of Stari Bar (p81) on your way to Ulcinj (p82). The atmosphere of this largely Albanian town is quite different from anywhere else in Montenegro and there’s a palpable buzz on the streets at night. It too has an interesting Old Town and the succession of rocky coves heading east from the crowded town beach are great for snorkelling. Nearby is the 12km continuous stretch of sand known as Velika Plaža (Big Beach; p86) and just across the Bojana River there’s a further 3km of beach on the nudist island Ada Bojana (p86).

25PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

Iner

arIes

The Hidden North

ALBANIA

BOSNIA &HERCEGOVINA

KOSOVO

CROATIA

SERBIA

ADR IAT I CSEA

ŠćepanPolje

PODGORICA

Kolašin

Pljevlja

Gusinje

Mojkovac#÷

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Žabljak

É

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Monastery

1 WEEK

This mountainous 650km loop combines some of Europe’s most beautiful drives with visits to isolated monasteries and opportunities for wilderness hiking. You won’t be able to tackle this route in winter, as snows close the Plužine–Žabljak road, and rafting stops in October.

Spend the morning exploring the nation’s capital and biggest city, Podgorica (p99), then head through Danilovgrad to the extraordinary Ostrog Monastery (p104). Continue on through Nikšić where the highway passes through farmland before reaching Piva Mon-astery (p116), and the start of the Piva Canyon. From here the road passes through numer-ous tunnels cut into the canyon walls until you reach the Bosnian border at Šćepan Polje (p114), the main rafting base. Check yourself into one of the rafting camps for the night.

Start day two with a half-day’s rafting on the Tara River and then jump in the car and double back through the canyon as far as Plužine. From here, take the scenic mountain road through Durmitor National Park to Žabljak (p113). Spend the rest of today and tomorrow hitting the park’s hiking tracks.

On day four, drive east to the Tara Bridge and head north to Pljevlja (p117) to visit Montenegro’s most beautiful mosque and a picturesque Orthodox monastery. Double back to the Tara Bridge and continue southeast along the river road. Consider making Eko-Oaza Suza Evrope your pitstop for this leg. From here you can walk to the secluded Dobrilovina Monastery (p113) and to a swimming hole on the river.

Continue to Mojkovac and then head north around the Bjelasica Massif and back down through Berane to Plav. Base yourself nearby for a day’s hiking in Prokletije National Park (p121); make sure you fit in a quick visit to the old Ottoman town of Gusinje (p121). The next day, take the awe-inspiring back road through Andrijevica to the mountain resort of Kolašin (p109), and tackle the tracks in Biogradska Gora National Park (p111).

The road back to Podgorica follows the Morača Canyon and is just as extraordinary as any on this trip. At the start of the canyon, call in to admire the exquisite frescoes and icons at peaceful Morača Monastery (p109). You might also like to offer a prayer for your safety on the scenic but treacherous road ahead.

26

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

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