©lonely planet publications pty ltd all you’ve got to...

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Costa Rica .. 2Map .................................. 421 Top Experiences ........ 6Need to Know ................. 18First Time ........................ 20What’s New ..................... 22If You Like ........................ 23Month by Month ............. 26Itineraries ........................ 29Activity Guide ................. 34Travel with Children ....... 44Regions at a Glance ....... 47

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND COSTA RICA

Costa Rica Today ........... 476History ............................. 479The Tico Way of Life ....... 488Landscapes & Ecology .. 493Wildlife Guide .................. 507

Costa Rica Today Weathering the Economic Storm Even despite the economic tumult that has rocked the world since 2008,Costa Rica’s economy has remained remarkably stable thanks to consist-ently growing returns on tourism. Tourism now outpaces both agricul-ture and industry for the biggest slice of the economy. If you’re concernedabout the availability of an English menu, take note: North Americansnow account for nearly half the country’s 2.2 million annual tourists.

Aside from tourism, the country’s principal agriculture exports include pineapples, co ee, fruits and plants, while industrial exports include mi-crochips, construction materials, fertilizer and medical equipment.

Poverty levels have been kept in check for more than 20 years by strong welfare programs. Although approximately 21% of the populacelives below the poverty line – up 5% since 2008 – beggars are few an far between, and you won’t see the street kids you see in other Latin American capitals. In fact, a good system of social services has ma epanhan ing and begging extremely rare in Costa Rica.

Foreign investors continue to be attracted by the country’s o itica

Population: 25 million

Adult literacy: %

Population ng below the verty line: %

Annual rbon-dioxide

missions per rson: 1.85

UNITED STATESCOSTA RICA CANADA

population per sq km

≈ 2 people

1737 The future capital of San José is es-

tablished, sparking a rivalry with neigh-

boring Cartago that will eventually culminate in a civil

war between the two dominant cities.

1821 Following a unanimous declaration by Mexico on behalf of all of Cen-

tral America, Costa Rica nally gains its independence from

Spain after centuries of colonial occupation.

úñez de Balboa heard rumors about a large sea and a wealthy, goldroducing civilization across the mountains of the isthmus – almost cerainly referring to the Inca empire of present-day Peru. Driven by equalarts ambition and greed, Balboa scaled the continental divide, and on

Se tem er 26, 1513, he became the rst European to set eyes upon thePaci c Ocean. Keeping up with the European fashion of the day, Balboa mmediately proceeded to claim the ocean and all the lands it touchedor the king of Spain.

The thrill of discovery aside, the conquistadors now controlled a stra-tegic western beachhead from which to launch their conquest of Costa Rica. In the name of God and king, aristocratic adventurers plunderedindigenous villages, executed resisters and enslaved survivors through-out the Nicoya peninsula. However, none of these bloodstained cam-paigns led to a permanent presence as intercontinental germ warfarecaused outbreaks of feverish death on both sides. Since the area wasscarce in mineral wealth and indigenous laborers, the Spanish even-tually came to regard it as the ‘poorest and most miserable in all theAmericas.’

New World OrderIt was not until the 1560s that a Spanish colony was rmly establishedin Costa Rica. Hoping to cultivate the rich volcanic soil of the CentralValley, the Spanish founded the village of Cartago on the banks of theRío Reventazón. Although the edgling colony was extremely isolated,

Visit World Mysteries at www.world- mysteries.com/sar_12.htm for an investiga-

tion of Costa Rica’s mysterious

stone spheres.

ALFR

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» Parque Nacional Volcán Poás (p103)

The Tropics in Technicolor Whether you’re following the metallic shimmer of a blue butter y from palm to palm, staring into the yawning mouth of a deep purple orchid or watching wisps of fog roll in to soften the jagged edge of mountains, Costa Rica’s vivid colors last a lifetime. The canopies rustle with riotous troupes of white-faced monkeys, hillsides echo with the squawks of scarlet macaws and you can reach up to the trees and pick your day’s lunch: a ripe starfruit. It might seem at times like some kind of wondrous tropical fantasy land, but this is Costa Rica.

Outdoor Adventures Rainforest hikes and brisk high-altitude trails, rushing white-water rapids and world-class sur ng: there is a dizzying suite of outdoor adventures. They come in every shape and size – from the squeal-inducing rush of a canopy zip line, to a sun-dazed afternoon at the beach. The country’s national parks allow visitors to glimpse the seething life of the tropical rainforest, its simmering volcanoes and cloud forests o er otherworldly vistas and its reliable surf breaks are suited to begin-ners and experts alike. Can’t decide? Don’t worry, you won’t have to. Given its diminu-tive size, it’s possible to plan a relatively short trip that includes all of the above.

Welcome to Costa Rica

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

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475GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so youcan make sense of what you see

Sur ng

10 Costa Rica’s east coast may move to the laid-back groove of Caribbean reg-

gae, but the country’s best year-round sur ng is on the Paci c coast. It’s home to a number of seaside villages where the day’s agenda rarely gets more complicated than a scrupu-lous study of the surf report, a healthy applica-tion of sunblock and a few cold Imperial beers. With plenty of good breaks for beginners, and the country’s most reliable rides (including perhaps the world’s second-longest left-hand break, in Pavones – p 393 ), Costa Rica has inexhaustible potential for surfers. Mal País

Wildlife-Watching

11 Monkeys and crocs, toucans and iguanas – Costa Rica is a thrill for wildlife

enthusiasts. World-class parks, long-standing dedication to environmental protection, and mind-boggling biodiversity enable Costa Rica to harbor scores of rare and endangered species. Simply put, it’s one of the best wildlife-watching destinations on the globe. In fact, visitors hardly have to make an e ort; no matter where you travel in the country, the branches overhead are alive with critters galore, from lazy sloths and mischievous monkeys, to a brilliant spectrum of tropical birds. Capuchin monkeys

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Itiner-aries

Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travelers.

JacóMontezuma

PlayaTamarindo

Monteverde & ReservaBiológica Bosque Nuboso

MonteverdeLaFortuna

SAN JOSÉ

VolcánArenal

Parque NacionalManuel Antonio

ÉÉ

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CARIBBEANSEA

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I SBN 978 -1 -74220 -018 -7

9 781742 200187

99425

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costa-rica-10-cover.indd 2costa-rica-10-cover.indd 2 13/07/2012 1:40:25 PM13/07/2012 1:40:25 PM

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Nate Cavalieri,Adam Skolnick, Wendy Yanagihara

NorthernLowlands

p453

CaribbeanCoastp397

Península de Osa& Golfo Dulce

p358

Central Valley& Highlands

p94

NorthwesternCosta Rica

p130

Penínsulade Nicoya

p209

SouthernCosta Rica

p334

Central PacificCoastp274

San Josép52

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z ................. 518Transportation ............... 531Language ........................ 539Index ................................ 549Map Legend .................... 559

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Entering the Country» Entering Costa Rica is mostly free of hassle, with the exception of some long queues at the airport. » The vast majority of travel-ers enter the country by plane, and most international ights arrive at Aeropuerto

Internacional Juan Santama-ría, outside San José.» Liberia is a growing destina-tion for international ights; it

in the Guanacaste province serves travelers heading

Península de Nicoya.

» Overland border crossings are straightforward and travelers can move freely be-tween Panama to the south and Nicaragua to the north. » Some foreign nationals will require a visa. Be aware that you cannot get a visa at the border. For more information on visas see the Directory (p 528 ).

Passport» Citizens of all nations are required to have a passport that is valid for at least six months beyond the dates of your trip.» When you arrive your pass-port will be stamped. » Though seldomly enforced, the law requires that you carry your passport at all times.

Nica

AirAirports & Airline» Costa Rica is well conned by air to other Central anSouth American countries, as well as the USA. » International ights arrive at Aeropuerto Internac-ional Juan Santamaría(%2437-2400; www.aeris.cr), 17km northwest of San José, in the town of Alajuela. » Aeropuerto Internacional Daniel Oduber Quirós in Libe-ria also receives international ights from the USA, the

Americas and Canada. It serves a number of American and Canadian airlines and some charters from London. Flights into Liberia have increased since the 2012 opening of a new terminal.» The national airline, Lacsa (part of the Central American Airline consortium Grupo TACA), ies to the USA and Latin America, including Cuba. » The US Federal Aviation Administration has assessed Costa Rica’s aviation au-thorities to be in complianwith international safetstandards.

Transportation

HANGE & TRAVELt relies on carbon-based fuel gene

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Look out for these icons:

Our author’s top recommendation

Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

A green or sustainable option No payment

required

SAN JOSÉ . . . . . . . . . . 52SAN JOSÉ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54AROUND SAN JOSÉ . . . . . . . 85Los Yoses & San Pedro . . . .85Escazú . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89

CENTRAL VALLEY & HIGHLANDS . . . . . . . .94ALAJUELA & THE NORTHERN VALLEY . . 95Alajuela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95Parque Nacional Volcán Poás . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103Northwest to Sarchí. . . . . .106HEREDIA AREA . . . . . . . . . . .112Barva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115CARTAGO AREA . . . . . . . . . .115Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Valle de Orosi . . . . . . . . . . . 120TURRIALBA AREA . . . . . . . 124Parque Nacional Volcán Turrialba . . . . . . . . . 129

NORTHWESTERN COSTA RICA . . . . . . . 130ARENAL ROUTE . . . . . . . . . .131Ciudad Quesada (San Carlos) . . . . . . . . . . . . 131La Fortuna & Around . . . . . 134Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal . . . . . . . . . . . 145El Castillo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Laguna de Arenal Area . . . 149Tilarán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156INTERAMERICANA NORTE . .157

Costa de Pájaros . . . . . . . . 157Juntas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Monteverde & Santa Elena . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde . . . . . 177Ecolodge San Luis & Research Station . . . . . . . . 181Cañas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181Puente La Amistad. . . . . . . 183Volcán Tenorio Area . . . . . . 183Volcán Miravalles Area . . . 187Bagaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188Parque Nacional Palo Verde . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189Liberia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja . . . . . . . . 197Area de Conservacion Guanacaste . . . . . . . . . . . . 200Parque Nacional Guanacaste . . . . . . . . . . . . 204La Cruz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205Bahía Salinas . . . . . . . . . . 206

PENÍNSULA DE NICOYA. . . . . . . . .209NORTHERN PENINSULA . . 212Playa del Coco . . . . . . . . . . 212Playa Hermosa . . . . . . . . . . 215Playa Ocotal . . . . . . . . . . . . 216Playa Grande . . . . . . . . . . . 220Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas De Guanacaste . . . . . . . . . .224Playa Tamarindo . . . . . . . . .225Playas Avellanas & Negra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231

Playa Junquillal . . . . . . . . . .233Santa Cruz. . . . . . . . . . . . . .235CENTRAL PENINSULA . . . 236Nicoya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .236Nosara Area . . . . . . . . . . . . .239Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Ostional . .246Playa Sámara . . . . . . . . . . .247Playa Carrillo. . . . . . . . . . . . 251Islita Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .252Playas San Miguel & Coyote . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .253SOUTHEASTERNPENINSULA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254Playa Naranjo . . . . . . . . . . .255Paquera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .256Playas Pochote & Tambor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .257Cóbano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260Montezuma . . . . . . . . . . . . 260Cabuya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco . . . .267Mal País & Santa Teresa . . . . . . . . . . . 268

CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 274PUNTARENASTO QUEPOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275Puntarenas . . . . . . . . . . . . .278Parque Nacional Carara . . 281Tárcoles & Around . . . . . . 284Jacó . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288Playa Hermosa . . . . . . . . . 296Playa Esterillos . . . . . . . . . 298Parrita & Around . . . . . . . 299

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On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

PARQUE NACIONAL MANUEL ANTONIO & AROUND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302Quepos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302Manuel Antonio Village . . . 315Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio . . . . . . . . . 317QUEPOS TO UVITA . . . . . . . 322Rafiki Safari Lodge . . . . . . .322Matapalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .323Hacienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge . .323Dominical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .324Uvita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .329Parque Nacional Marino Ballena . . . . . . . . . . 331

SOUTHERN COSTA RICA . . . . . . .334THE ROAD TO CHIRRIPÓ . .335Santa María & Valle de Dota . . . . . . . . . . . .335San Gerardo de Dota . . . . 338Parque Nacional Los Quetzales . . . . . . . . . . 340Cerro de La Muerte . . . . . 340San Isidro de El General . . 341San Gerardo de Rivas . . . .343PARQUE NACIONALCHIRRIPÓ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .345THE ROAD TO LA AMISTAD . .350Reserva Biológica Dúrika . .350Reserva Indígena Boruca . .350Palmar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .352San Vito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .354PARQUE INTERNACIONALLA AMISTAD . . . . . . . . . . . . 356

PENÍNSULA DE OSA & GOLFO DULCE . . . .358TO CORCOVADO VIAPUERTO JIMÉNEZ . . . . . . . 362Reserva Forestal Golfo Dulce . . . . . . . . . . . . .362Puerto Jiménez . . . . . . . . . 364Carate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371TO CORCOVADO VIABAHÍA DRAKE . . . . . . . . . . . 374Sierpe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374Humedal Nacional Térraba-Sierpe . . . . . . . . . . 374Bahía Drake . . . . . . . . . . . . .375Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño . . . . . . . . . . . .382PARQUE NACIONAL CORCOVADO. . . . . . . . . . . . 382GOLFO DULCE . . . . . . . . . . 388Golfito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas . . . . . . . . . 391Playas San Josecito, Nicuesa & Cativo . . . . . . . . 391Zancudo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .392Pavones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .393PARQUE NACIONALISLA DEL COCOS . . . . . . . . 395

CARIBBEAN COAST . .397THE ATLANTIC SLOPE . . .400Parque NacionalBraulio Carrillo . . . . . . . . . .401Guápiles & Around . . . . . . 402Cariari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404Siquirres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405Puerto Limón . . . . . . . . . . 406

NORTHERN CARIBBEAN . .410Parismina. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .410Parque Nacional Tortuguero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412SOUTHERN CARIBBEAN . .420Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere . . . . . . . . . . . . 421Aviarios del Caribe Sloth Sanctuary . . . . . . . . . 421Parque Nacional Cahuita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 431Puerto Viejode Talamanca . . . . . . . . . . .432Manzanillo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 448Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo . . . . 449Bribrí . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451Sixaola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .452

NORTHERNLOWLANDS . . . . . . . .453THE SARAPIQUÍ VALLEY . . 456La Virgen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí& Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .459SOUTH OF PUERTO VIEJO DE SARAPIQUÍ . . . . 462Estación BiológicaLa Selva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462HWY 126TO SAN MIGUEL . . . . . . . . . 464SAN MIGUELTO LOS CHILES. . . . . . . . . . 464Venecia & Around . . . . . . . 465Los Chiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . 466Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Caño Negro . . . . 468

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Santa RosaCentral America’s largesttropical dry forest (p200)

NosaraA slice of sophisticated

jungle living (p239)

Playa SámaraMellow out and learn

to surf (p247)

Mal País & Santa TeresaA paradise of surf, yoga

and sushi (p268) Parque Nacional Volcán ArenalHot springs and excellent

hiking (p145)

MontezumaTriple-tiered waterfalls and

fine food (p260)

To Isla del Cocos(300km; See inset)

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Parque Nacional Manuel AntonioAccessible rainforest andbeautiful beaches (p317)

Golfo DulceKayak mangrove channels alongside dolphins (p365)

Cerro ChirripóIcy lakes, wind-swept highsand rugged hiking (p345)

Southern Caribbean Coast A remote mix of indigenous,

Tico and Afro-Carribeancultures (p420)

San JoséDig into Costa Rican culture

and cuisine (p52)

Parque Nacional TortugueroGlide on waterways past

herons and nesting turtles (p412)

Sarapiquí ValleyA paddling paradise withexcellent ecolodges (p456)

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Interamericana

Top Experiences ›

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OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Nate Cavalieri Coordinating Author, Central Pacifi c Coast, Southern Costa Rica, Península de Osa & Golfo Duce Nate Cavalieri traveled extensively in Latin America on a 2009 trip around the world, but quickly realized that Costa Rica required a lengthy return visit for his undivided attention. Nate lives in Oakland, California, where he writes about life’s most colorful diversions: travel, music and professional cy-cling. His dozen titles for Lonely Planet include guides to the Caribbean, Mexico,

Northern California and Colorado. For this edition he took up surfi ng, got really into the mythology of the Quetzal and nearly destroyed an economy-class rental car. You can check in on him via Twit-ter (@natecavalieri) or visit www.natecavalieri.com.

Adam Skolnick Northwestern Costa Rica, Península de Nicoya, Northern Lowlands Adam Skol-nick writes about travel, culture, health, sports and the environment for Lonely Planet, Men’s Health, Outside and Travel + Leisure among others. He has au-thored and co-authored 16 previous Lonely Planet books, and has travelled and reported throughout Central America. You can read more of his work at www.adamskolnick.com.

Wendy Yanagihara San José, Central Valley & Highlands, Carribean Coast On her fi rst trip to Costa Rica in 1996, Wendy wandered out to Zarcero to check out the loopy topiaries of the public plaza, and met Evangelisto Blanco himself (the man behind the land-scaping). Fifteen years later, she was pleased to discover that both Zarcero and Señor Blanco have changed only slightly. She has covered the Nicoya Peninsula and northern zone before for Lonely Planet, but on this trip she discovered the

surprising delights of San José and a taste for Caribbean rondón. When not on the road for Lonely Planet, she lives in southern California.

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98310th edition – October 2012ISBN 978 1 74220 018 7© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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Itiner-aries

Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travelers.

JacóMontezuma

PlayaTamarindo

Monteverde & ReservaBiológica Bosque Nuboso

MonteverdeLaFortuna

SAN JOSÉ

VolcánArenal

Parque NacionalManuel Antonio

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Two WeeksEssential Costa Rica

This is the trip you’ve been dreaming about: a romp through paradise with seething volcanoes , tropical parks and ghostly cloud forests.

From San José, beeline north to La Fortuna. After hiking the forest on the fl anks of Volcán Arenal, soak in the area’s hot springs. Then catch a boat across Laguna de

Arenal, and a bus to Monteverde, where you might just encounter the elusive quetzal on a stroll through the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde.

It’s time for the beach: head west to the biggest party town in Nicoya, Playa Tamarindo, and enjoy the ideal surf and rowdy nightlife.

Continuing south, go through Montezuma where you can connect via jet boat to Jacó, another town with equal aff ection for surfi ng and partying. Spend half a day on the bus down to Quepos, the gateway to Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. A full day in the park starts with some jungle hikes and wildlife-watching and ends with a picnic and a dip in the park’s perfect waters.

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Mal País & PlayaSanta Teresa

SAN JOSÉ

La Virgen& Río Sarapiquí

PlayaTamarindo &Playa Grande Volcán

Arenal

Montezuma

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CARIBBEANSEA

Playa Sámara

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Two WeeksNorthern Costa Rica

A deep exploration of the north presents travelers with all of Costa Rica’s banner attractions and some of its off -the-beaten-path destinations in a tidy, low-mileage package.

After landing in San José, make for the hanging bridges and breathtaking scenery of the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde, one of Costa Rica’s most unique and iconic destinations. Just watching the mists roll over the dense forests is entertaining, but the add-ons here sweeten the deal: there are dizzying zip lines and areal walkways, excellent hikes and one of the country’s best butterfl y gardens.

After a few days in the cloud forest you’ll be ready for Arenal, the country’s biggest active volcano. Though just a quick bus ride away, the glowering mountain seems like a diff erent world. Although it seems to be in heading into a period of dormancy, Arenal remains an incredible sight. Another few hikes and you’ll be ready for the area’s hot springs.

Now, leave the tourists behind and head into the northern lowlands, an agricultural zone where real-life Costa Rica awaits. Community tourism initiatives have sprung up in this historically farm-based economy, with inviting ecolodges and family stays. After a couple days of connecting with easygoing Ticos, make for La Virgen to raft the county’s wildest waters on the Río Sarapiquí.

With the remaining week, it’s time to hit the beach. Catch a bus for Playa Tamarindo, to party with other travelers, sample some of the country’s fi nest international cuisine and take a few surfi ng lessons. If you’re here during turtle season, Playa Grande will host a horde of nesting leatherbacks; if you’re not, the human action on the beach is an equally illuminating mating ritual.

You can either stay put or string together a series of southbound buses to visit one heavenly beach after the next: there’s stunning sand and contemporary cuisine at Playa Sámara or legendary swells at Mal País and Playa Santa Teresa. Any of them would be excellent places to swim in warm Pacifi c waters and chill out on the beach. Wind down your trip with a bit of yoga at Montezuma and head back to San José via Jacó by jet boat and bus.

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» (above) Hiking in the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde (p177) » (left) Volcán Arenal (p145)

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Jacó

Dominical

SAN JOSÉ

PuertoJiménez

Parque NacionalCarara

Parque NacionalCorcovado

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Refuge

Chirripó

Penínsulade Osa

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Urita &Parque NacionalMarino Ballena

Quepos & ParqueNacional Manuel

AntonioSan Gerardo de Rivas &Cloudbridge Nature Preserve

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Pacific CoastSouthern Costa Rica

Two WeeksPacifi c Coast Explorer

Kick things off in the resort town of Jacó, a scrappy, if cosmopolitan en-clave of fi ne dining and raging night-life. In case you need a reminder that

you’re still in Costa Rica, backtrack north up the coast to Parque Nacional Carara, home to large populations of enchanting scarlet macaws.

Heading south along the coast, drop in on Quepos, a convenient base for the country’s most popular national park, Parque Na-cional Manuel Antonio.

Here, the rainforest sweeps down to meet the sea, providing refuge for rare animals, including the endangered Central American squirrel monkey.

Continue on south – stopping to sample the roadside ceviche stands – and visit Ha-cienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge to look for sloth, or keep heading south to Do-minical for more waves. For deserted beach wandering keep on to Uvita, where you can look for whales off Parque Nacional Ma-rino Ballena.

From Uvita, you can either continue south to the far-fl ung Península de Osa, or head to San José.

Two to Three WeeksSouthern Costa Rica & Osa

Hand’s down the best itinerary for adventurers. Either head down the Pacifi c coast or fl y into Puerto Jiménez, which serves as the gate-

way to Osa. Here, you can spend a day or so kayaking the mangroves and soaking up the charm of this tiny town.

The undisputed highlight of Osa is Parque Nacional Corcovado, one of the country’s best wildlife-watching spots. Spend a few days exploring the trails with backpack in hand; particularly well-equipped travelers can trek across the entire park.

Return to Puerto Jiménez and link up with the Uvita, where you wander empty beaches and surf a bit in the Parque Na-cional Marino Ballena. Then, it’s off to the mountains. Link together buses for San Gerardo de Rivas, where you can spend a day getting used to the altitude and hik-ing through the Cloudbridge Nature Pre-serve. End the trip with an exhilarating two-day adventure to the top of Chirripó.

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Cariari

PuertoViejo de

Talamanca

CartagoSAN JOSÉ

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OrosiValley

RíoPacuare

VolcánPoás

Tortuguero & ParqueNacional Tortuguero

Refugio Nacionalde Vida SilvestreGandoca-Manzanillo

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Central ValleyCaribbean Coast

One to Two WeeksCarribean Coast

Spanish gives way to English, and Latin beats change to Caribbean rhythms as you explore the ‘other Costa Rica.’

Hop on the fi rst eastbound bus out of San José for Cahuita, capital of Afro-Caribbean culture and gateway to Parque Nacional Cahuita. Get your fi ll of this mellow little village before moving on to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, the Caribbean’s center for nightlife, cuisine and all-round positive vibes.

From Puerto Viejo, rent yourself a good old-fashioned bicycle and ride to Manza-nillo, from where you can snorkel, kayak and hike in the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo.

For the adventurous at heart, grab a boat from Moín to travel the canal-lined coast to Tortuguero, where you can watch nesting green and leatherback turtles. Of course, the real reason you’re here is to arrange a canoe trip through the mangrove-lined canals of Parque Nacional Tortuguero, Costa Rica’s mini-Amazon.

After spotting your fi ll of wildlife, head back to San José via water taxi and bus through Cariari and Guápiles.

One WeekCentral Valley

The central valley circuit is about sleeping volcanoes, strong cups of coff ee and the spiritual core of the country. Since most tourists head to-

ward Costa Rica’s distant beaches, you’ll en-joy mountain markets and colonial squares without the huge crowds.

Begin the scenic circuit of the region’s gaping volcanoes by hiking the volcanic lakes and trails surrounding Poás, one of Costa Rica’s most accessible glimpses into an active volcano. Move on to the Monu-mento Nacional Arqueológico Guayabo, the country’s only signifi cant archeological site, where visitors marvel at petroglyphs and a system of aqueducts.

With the geological and archeological wonders complete, rush the white water of the Río Pacuare, one of the country’s best white-water runs, and some of the most sce-nic rafting in Central America.

Finally, swing south into the heart of the Orosi Valley, Costa Rican coff ee country, and take the caff einated 60km loop pass-ing the country’s oldest church and endless green hills. End this short circuit on a spir-itual note at the country’s grandest colonial temple, the Basílica de Nuestra Senora de Los Ángeles in Cartago.

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