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THE BERKELEY RIVER LODGE

Broome

Darwin

We s t e r n A u s t r a l i aHigh style in the far west

Merissa Borg DISCOVERED AN UNEXPECTED LEVEL OF LUXURY AT THE BERKELEY RIVER LODGE IN THE REMOTE KIMBERLEY REGION.

Per th

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A TRIP TO THE KIMBERLEY HAS ALWAYS BEEN at the top of my bucket list and considering it’s practically a long haul journey from the east coast of Australia I made the most of it with a stopover in Broome. From there I flew to Kununurra where I met a single engine float plane that would be my ride to my final destination. While the plane hummed along in what seemed like slow motion, our pilot handed me a map and pointed out land-marks including Wyndham, the Cambridge Gulf and Reveley Island. I’m headed out to the Kimberley Coast to the latest offering in truly remote outback camps. The Berkeley River Lodge is touted as the ultimate in luxury lodges on this stretch of rugged, almost inaccessible coastline of Australia.

The seaplane landed in the mouth of the Berkeley River, two minutes along the beach in a buggy away from the lodge.

Flying in over the resort, I gazed at the white sand beach stretching six kilometres along the coastline of the Timor Sea. Sitting atop the dunes, the resort can accommodate a maximum of 40 guests and each of the 20 chalets is in close walking distance to the main lodge.

All of the chalets have private balconies that present an impressive 180-degree view of the blue-green ocean and river, spectacularly contrasted with the red ochre of the commanding cliffs that

flank the harsh coastline. The decor is inspired by the surroundings with use of green and orange reminiscent of the flowers of a local native euca-lypt, the Darwin woollybutt.

The T2 tea, expresso machine and local sandle-wood toiletries are special in-room touches.

Camera in hand, it’s straight out to the wait-ing boat for a lunch cruise up the Berkeley River and a spot of barra fishing. While it’s not barra season, skipper Karl tells me a guest caught a whopping 80 centimetre fish the previous day. Encouraged, I daydream about my trophy fish while wondering at the sheer cliffs and amaz-ing contrast of water and rock. After lunch and with no fish on deck I’m consoled by chilled champagne and a selection of cheese. Moments later Karl brings the boat to a halt as a crocodile is spotted on the bank. He’s at least 3.5 metres long, and we get so close I can see every detail of his bumpy skin and worn teeth: a chilling sight at just a few metres away.

As we head for home our guide takes a de-tour up the picturesque Casuarina Creek. The boat slowly drifts upstream, the tributary narrows and the looming red cliffs close in around us. Casuarina Falls stands before us and before I know it I’m off the boat and standing under the waterfall. Even though the weight of the water makes it hard to see, >>

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REMOTE LUXURYMain image: The only way to reach Berkeley River is by floatplane.Above from left: Shower under the stars in the open-air bathrooms; Chalets open onto a private deck with views over the ocean and river.

it’s an amazing feeling and the cold water shower makes a fantastic climax to the river cruise.

The fine dining experience is com-pletely unexpected in this isolated wilder-ness and at dinner that night the resident chef serves up incredible cuisine despite the challenges of being so remote. The menu changed daily, with three courses for lunch and a special five-course degus-tation dinner on arrival night. The entree of barrel smoked salmon tartar served on a soft potato cake was divine topped with beetroot puree yoghurt, French salted ca-pers and salmon caviar. This was followed by a passionfruit cleanser before the main of baked pork loin cutlets. The pork ar-rives sitting atop organic white polenta and garlic silver beet that is drizzled with burnt orange caramel.

That night I found the alfresco bath-room confronting, but once under the shower, looking up at the vast sky of stars

and I called out to our guide as I pointed out different birds in the trees flanking the Berkeley. The boat turned sharply to the right and we pulled in alongside a steep, rocky hill. The skipper positioned the boat perfectly as I attempted a grace-ful dismount onto a smooth rock ledge. With me in the middle, we started a steep ascent, the guide assuring us that this was the hardest part of the hike and well worth the effort once we reached the peak. I scrambled for balance over the last boulder but when I looked up, we had emerged into a new world. As we hiked along, underfoot a mix of flat rock and spinifex grass, the day was starting to warm up but the beauty of the dry season meant the sky was crisply clear. With the wilds of the Kimberley bush to my right, we rock hopped across the tops of spectacular red rock gorges and peered down at the glittering blue water to my left. In front my companion called out: he’d spotted a shark lurking in the water, a hundred metres below us.

As we reached the mouth of the Casu-arina Creek, I couldn’t help but marvel at the falls and picture where I had stood the day before. Heading upstream we checked out each waterhole and by the second one we couldn’t resist a dip. On the way back I spotted a small turtle in the water and as I quickly fished for my camera a black falcon caught my eye, as he stood poised on the rock in front of me.

Elated, yet feeling very peaceful from

it felt instantly liberating.Each morning I was woken by the

warm, ocean breeze and the chatter of birds, as well as a big breakfast of bacon, eggs, mushrooms and chipolatas. The resident guide and biologist, Oliver, picks me up early for a savannah safari. As the buggy bumps along down the narrow track I’m surprised at the lack of wildlife sightings but impressed by the extent of flora, especially the infamous boab trees. The buggy wheels around a corner and we are confronted by a distinct screech-ing coming from the trees. Above us are a large flock of red-tailed black cockatoos having their morning tea.

The highlight of the trip was on the last day when we ventured back to Casu-arina Creek to gain a new perspective from above. We started out at about 9am and took the buggy along the beach to our waiting vessel. The cool morning air stirred a shiver as the boat steamed along, >>

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WHEN TO GOThe Berkeley River Lodge will be closed from 15 October, 2012 until 1 February, 2013, though there are plans to keep the property open all year round in future. May to October is the dry season so guests can expect blue skies, warm days and cool nights. June, July and August are the coldest months and you’ll need to bring something warm to wear.

STAY ING THEREThree-night packages start from A$2,988 per person twin share including all meals and beverages, activities, and floatplane transfers from Kununurra.berkeleyriver.com.au

my wilderness experience we returned to the lodge, greeted by another ambi-tious three-course meal. This was by far the most memorable: compressed wa-termelon and sheep feta salad combined with toasted pistachio, basil leaves and drizzled with an interesting dressing of gin and vanilla. This was followed by Q-farm organic lamb loin served with du puy lentils, preserved lemon and egg-plant, perfectly complemented with a rich tomato and garlic sauce. The banana bread with cream cheese frosting was to die for and I sneak an extra serve to take back to my chalet.

As we fly out by seaplane after what was an unforgettable time, I hold in a deep breath and savour the kaleidoscopic colours the Kimberley offers up. I have ticked it off the list, but I’m already plan-ning my return for the wet season water-falls and barra season.

THROW A LINE INMain image: The unique "fresh meets salt" water makes for great fishing.Above from left: Fine dining is a highlight; Relax by the 20-metre lap pool.

GETT ING THEREQantas flies direct to Broome from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane up to twice a week and from Perth daily. The east coast flights direct to Broome are seasonal and in the off season (from around October to April) operate via Perth. From Broome there are daily connecting flights to Kununurra operated by codeshare partner Air North. Economy fares start from A$827 one way and there is no business class available on the direct route.qantas.com; airnorth.com.au

In Broome the latest luxury offering is The Billi, a collection of villas and luxury eco tents set in beautiful grounds with a swimming pool with rates for tents starting at A$150 per night. Broome is renowned as the pearling capital of the world so while you’re there book a tour of the Willie Creek Pearl Farm and they’ll collect you in a helicopter.thebilli.com.au

Kununurra is the food basin of the mighty Kimberley region thanks to the Ord River Irrigation Scheme. Pinctada Kimberley Grande is the best accommodation in Kununurra. King terrace rooms from A$184 per night and spa suites from A$284 per night.thekimberleygrande.com.au

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