Madeira

Island Endemics and Pelagic Birding Tour

21 – 27 August 2016

Trocaz Pigeon, Columba trocaz, Island Endemic

I joined my friend, Tony Crease (based in Tenerife), for a week’s birding on the Portuguese autonomous region of Madeira from 21-27 August. The centre-piece of the trip was a three-day pelagics tour, (my first ever), organized by the local operator, Madeiran Wind Birds: (contact - Catarina Correia-Fagundes at - info@madeirawindbirds.com). My sincere thanks to fellow birder and pelagics crew, Mike Nesbitt from the UK for sharing his photographs of some of the species seen on the tour and that are included in this report.

A highlight of the pelagics programme was seeing both Zino’s and Fea’s (Deserta’s) Petrels, among several other oceanic species, and a late evening excursion to the top of Pico do Areiro to witness Zino’s returning to their burrows with the legendary, Frank Zino, was especially memorable.

During our free time, Tony and I birded the interior of the island and managed the two island endemics (Trocaz Pigeon and Madeiran Firecrest), without too much effort, and also saw many of the local Madeiran sub-species. All-in-all, a very rewarding and relaxing birding experience!

Species List: (Pelagics tour):

• Zino’s Petrel, Pterodroma madeira – one curious bird joined our chum slick several kms off the northern shore of Madeira on the third (and last) day of the tour (a great relief to all on board!). The bird circled the boat at quite close range allowing good views.

Zino’s Petre (left), with Deserta’s (Fea’s) for comparison (right) – photographs by fellow crew, Mike Nesbitt (UK)

• Fea’s (Deserta’s) Petrel, Pterodroma feae – two birds seen close to the boat on the first day,

some distance off the Desertas Islands, south of Madeira. On board a little debate raged over the nomenclature of the species: Fea’s vs. Deserta’s. According to our guide, Hugo, the species is best split into Deserta’s (breeding on Madeiran outer uninhabited islands) and Fea’s (breeding mostly on the Cape Verde archipelago). While very closely related, Fea’s Petrel has a larger beak compared to Zino’s and a overall bulkier ‘jizz’.

Deserta’s (Fea’s) Petrel, photograph by Mike Nesbitt (UK)

Deserta’s (Fea’s) Petrel, clearly showing its larger bill, photograph by fellow pelagics crew, Mike Nesbitt (UK)

• Bulwer’sPetrel, Bulweria bulwerii – commonly seen; sometimes up to 4-5 birds feeding along the chum slick

Bulwer’s Petrel (photograph by Mike Nesbitt (UK))

• Great Shearwater, Ardenna gravis – at least six birds seen on consecutive days. Was quite

confiding and took to attacking the floating chum ice ball with relish

Great Shearwater, photograph by Mike Nesbitt (UK)

• Cory’s Shearwater, Calonectris diomedea borealis – very common; but mostly seen closer to shore, sometimes in large rafts of several hundred in the late afternoon

Cory’s Shearwater, photograph by Mike Nesbitt (UK)

• (European) Storm Petrel, Hydrobates pelagicus - four seen on the tour; would repeatedly

dance up and down the chum slick picking up small pieces of food

• Wilson’s Storm Petrel, Oceanites oceanicus – the other Storm Petrel seen on the trip; on the third day, three birds were feeding around the boat at close range, at the same time

Wilson’s Storm Petrel, photo by Mike Nesbitt (UK)

European Storm Petrel, photograph by Mike Nesbitt (UK)

• Sabine’s Gull, Xema sabini – one bird swimming on the ocean, well seen at close range • Yellow-legged Gull, Larus michaellis – very common in Machico Harbour • Arctic Tern, Sterna paradisaea – several seen at sea over the three days • Common Tern, Sterna hirundo – in Machico Harbour • Roseate Tern, Sterna dougallii – one non-breeding bird identified by our guides among the

far more numerous common terns at Machico Harbour

Tony Crease (front) and Mike Nesbitt on our pelagic expedition ‘rib’

Madeira Island Species:

• Trocaz Pigeon, Columba trocaz – more common than expected; dozens seen over several days in laurel forest area of the interior. One especially good place for viewing is the road (unsealed, but easily driveable) to the hydro-electric station at Faja do Nogueira

Trocaz and laurel habitat

Typical habitat of the Trocaz Pigeon

• Madeiran Firecrest, Regulus madeirensis – also proved plentiful in higher mountain zones.

Call is quite distinctive. Often in large parties with many juveniles observed. • European Robin, Erithacus rubecula rubecula – common at Funchal Botanic Gardens

• (Madeiran) Chaffinch, Fringilla coelebs madeirensis – common throughout the island and very vocal

Madeiran Chaffinch, photograph by Mike Nesbitt (UK)

• Blackbird, Turdus merula cabrerae – common, but often quite shy • Pallid Swift, Apus pallidus brehmorum – seen along with the more common swifts • Blackcap, Sylvia atricapilla heineken – very common and vocal in undergrowth and

sometimes exposed on trees

The island sub-species Blackcap (female)

Blackcap (male)

• Goldfinch, Carduelis carduelis parva – seen infrequently; in pine forests at higher altitudes

Goldfinch, sheltering from the cold, mist of the highlands

• (Atlantic) Canary, Serinus canaria – familiar to Tony from the Islas Canarias; only seen along

the northern-most coast

• (Common) Kestrel, Falco tinnunculus canariensis – common at high altitudes; one seen at Funchal Botanic Gardens

Madeiran Kestrel perched on the scorched branch of a conifer at the Funchal Botanic Garden following the devastating bush fires of August 2016

• Grey Wagtail, Motacilla cinerea schmitzi – several observed along the watercourse of the Machico river, mostly juveniles

• Ruddy Shelduck, Tadorna ferruginea – a wild bird; has been seen annually at Machico for the past four years (according to our pelagic guides). Unfortunately, we failed to locate a Spotted Sandpiper, Actitis macularius, (American vagrant) which was also reported to frequent the same locale…

A lone Ruddy Shelduck at home in the Machico ‘river’

• Ruddy Turnstone, Arenaria interpres – common along seawalls and feeding along the stones of the Machico river

• Common Moorhen, Gallinula chloropus – several pairs nesting by the Machico River • Common Waxbill, Estrilda astrild – introduced from Africa. Common in seeding grasses

along the Machico River levy.

Waxbills feeding

• Red-legged Partridge, Alectoris rufa – a covey of at least one dozen running across the road near the radar station at the crest of Pico Arieiro

• Common Buzzard, Buteo buteo – at least six seen in flight, riding thermals • Common Sandpiper, Actiis hypoleucos – two seen along the levy of the Machico river • Berthelot’s Pipit, Anthus berthelotii – several seen in sub-alpine grasslands at Pico Arieiro

(1800m) • Plain Swift, Apus unicolor – fairly common throughout • Barn Owl, Tyto alba schmitzi – seen by our guides, Carolina and Hugo on our return from the

Zino’s night excursion (around 02:00am)

The ‘little chamber of avian horrors’ – a 19th century display of endemic birds at the Botanic Garden Visitor’s Centre, Funchal (Trocaz, Sparrowhawk, Firecrest, Zino’s, Chaffinch and Kestrel)

Frank Zino (centre) and spouse, Elizabeth, explaining to Tony the breeding peculiarities of Zino’s Petrel

Day-time view of Pico do Arieiro, breeding site of Zino’s Petrel (deep burrows in volcanic soil) – 1818m

View of the Madeiran coast near Machico

David Karr: davidwkarr@gmail.com

Geneva, 11 September 2016