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Su Misura

Made to Measure is the Art of Personal EleganceOur promise is to deliver perfectly tailored apparel designed for your individual character from an unparalleled collection of Zegna fabrics. From personalized suits to entire wardrobes.

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Q:I read a study that said thefirst thing women notice on

men is their shoes. So what shoesshould I be wearing this spring?Shoes for spring ’13 run the gamutfrom casual boat shoes and coolwingtips to soft suede lace-ups anddress/casual hybrids that combine

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SPRING 2013FASHION TIPS

FOR HIM

ASKMARIOQ:Watching the new James

Bond movie, I realized thatall my suits are out of date.What’s up with this skinny look? In fact, the men’s clothing industryhas been pushing a slimmer model forseveral years now, but it took DanielCraig to help get the message across!Yes, today’s suits are narrower: coatsare shorter and trousers slimmer for amodern look that’s much more youth-ful than pants dragging on theground. So anything you’ve had inyour closet for three or more years islikely too baggy. And any suit or tuxwith pleated trousers is begging to bereplaced!

To complement your new trim suits,you might want some slimmer shirtsand narrower ties. (Tie widths shouldrelate to the lapels of the suit.)

Q:I’m seeing lots of color inmen’s fashion magazines:

are real guys wearing it?Real guys are wearing it! Color hasalways been a factor in men’ssweaters, shirts and neckwear; onlyrecently has it moved to bottoms. Wesuggest pairing colored denim with aneutral sportcoat (check out our coverfor a good example of this!). It’s agreat look that’s surprisingly easy topull off, once you take that first step.

luxury leathers with high-tech soles.

Color is key, if not on the shoe itself

then on the soles or laces. It’s about

classics with a twist: taking a tradi-

tional shoe and adding a touch of

whimsy. Finally, a fun footwear sea-

son with lots of creative options!

(And you can be sure she’ll notice...)

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Q:There are many beautiful,lightweight scarves out

there, but how can I wear themin the warmer months? In the Northwest where it rarelygets too hot, you can pretty muchuse a scarf all year, especially asheer style in airy cashmere or acotton/cashmere blend. When itdoes get warmer, untie and drape itover your shoulders as an easy wrap.

We’re also starting to see silkscarves come back as a fashionitem. Look for them in the samegeometric, striped or color blockedpatterns popular in RTW styles. Toget even more use out of your scarfcollection, tie one up and wear it asa headband or style it on your hand-bag to accessorize.

Q:Color always plays animportant role in my

spring/summer wardrobe. Arethere any particular color trendsI should look for this season? Beautiful blues! From azure toturquoise, there’s a shade out therethat looks good on everyone! Ifyou’re not comfortable with theboldness of blue, tone it down bypopping one piece against an other-wise black and white outfit in stronggraphic shapes—another huge trend.

A black and white wardrobe isperfect for unpredictable weather,since you can layer pieces easily andveer towards one shade dependingon the rain or sun. Plus, owning avariety of black and white items

means you don’thave to pack asmuch when youtravel. Pair blackand white sepa-rates together or optfor a monochromatic look,livening up each outfit with acces-sories.

Color blocking continues its reignon the runways, though stripes arebolder than in seasons past. Payextra attention to where the stripeshit on your body and make sureyour garments are tailored for a per-fect fit. You can even try colorblocking or stripes on your shoesor bag: just as on-trend but mucheasier to pull off. In bright colors orsoft neutrals, this is a perfect way toprovide some contrast in yourwardrobe and effortlessly liven upyour basics. Come in to check outthe fresh, modern styles fromLanvin, Prada and Pierre Hardy.

Q:Last year my favoritedesigners all showed floral

patterns on the runway. Whichprints will be big in 2013? Pixel and geometric prints are pop-ular this season, though florals arecertainly still happening, especiallywhen layered with lace.

Head-to-toe geometric prints arenot for the faint of heart, but luckilythey work well in small doses andpair back beautifully to the blackand white items in your wardrobe.The most important style advice ofall: wear what makes you feel good! S

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SPRING 2013FASHION TIPS

FOR HER

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T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . .A N D J E A N S

CAN A MANʼSTROUSER OR JEAN,

A BASIC ITEM OF CLOTHING,BE TRANSFORMED

INTO A “MUST HAVE?”̶MARIOʼS THINKS SO


ebastián Blanco had been working in shoe factoriessince he was 12. In 1954, at the age of 44, he decidedto start his own business. With only five employees,he began making shoes out of a small workshop in hisown home in Almansa, a factory town in southeasternSpain specializing in leather goods production. Twoyears later he partnered with shoe salesman AntonioGarcia to form Blangar.

When Blanco’s only son Pascual turned 14, hebegan learning shoe design and pattern making fromhis father. At 16, Pascual became the lead designer,introducing more elegant styles and rebranding thecompany as Magnanni (after going to a movie withhis future wife Rocio, where he was impressed byItalian actress Anna Magnani).

In 1968, Pascual married Rocio, and the couple laterhad five sons (Sebastián, Miguel, Pascual, Julio andLuis) and a daughter (Rocio). Today the entire third

generation of Blancos occupy key positions atMagnanni. Pascual, the third son of Pascual andRocio, is in charge of distribution in the U.S. and Asia,and reveals that although his father is technicallyretired, “the company is like another son to him. Inmy opinion, my father is the best shoemaker in Spain,and we still learn from him every day.”

When asked about the difficulty of working along-side five siblings, Pascual laughs. “When we discussbusiness, it’s usually informal… and loud! Sometimeswe get on each other’s nerves, but then we go outafterwards and have a beer. We’re a very close family.”

Still based in Almansa, Magnanni continues to con-struct all its footwear by hand. The highest qualityEuropean leathers are hand chosen by the Blancos toensure that only the best materials available are used.

Magnanni is known for its use of the complicated,labor-intensive Bologna construction. But the endresult—a foot wrapped 360 degrees with leather, as aglove to a hand— is worth it, giving each shoe excep-tional flexibility and comfort. “We make the shoe sothe lining wraps around your entire foot,” explainsPascual. “Some brands use a hard insole, but we havesoft molded leather. It conforms to your foot faster sothere’s never a long breaking-in period.”

The last is another vital part of any shoe, andMagnanni’s are all carefully constructed in house toensure quality and consistency. “People don’t notice orcompliment the last, but even if they don’t know it, it’sthe first thing they feel when they try a shoe on,”Pascual says. “We’ve found a successful fit, but we’realways testing and developing it to make it better.”

The company also hand paints all of its leatherswith exclusive dyes, natu-ral creams and polishingrags, imparting each pairwith a one-of-a-kind finishand a deep, rich col-oration. The perfect finaltouch on the shoes you’llwear for a lifetime.

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MAGNANNI SHOES OFFER THE FINEST IN FIT—AND FLAIR.BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

GLOVES FOR YOUR FEET

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hen Mies van der Rohe uttered hisfamous words “God is in the details” toan admirer of his design work, theGerman-American architect might just aseasily have been speaking about the workof Kelly Wearstler, the entrepreneurial

designer whose thought-provoking and detail-drivendesigns for boutique hotels and opulent homes haveredefined the concept of modern glamour.

Whether designing the decadent black, white anddaffodil yellow interiors of Palm Desert’s ViceroyHotel (one of the many Viceroys she’s designed fromCalifornia to the Caribbean), putting the finishingtouches on her recently launched women’s fashionlabel, or drafting pieces for her new line of furnitureand wall coverings debuting this spring, Wearstler—aformer Playboy centerfold turned style-bending interi-or designer—is a self-described risk-taker who finds

genius in the most off-beat places. “I can find inspira-tion in vintage books and fashion, or spend hours in abutton store and see one that inspires a pillow,” saysthe Australian-born designer, who shares her LosAngeles home with her husband, real estate developerBrad Korzen, and their two young sons, Oliver andElliott. “The smallest things in everyday life—colors,prints, patterns—all fascinate me,” she says.

Those everyday musings have been turned intomagical pieces for the home, office or wardrobe:everything from bedding and draperies to jackets andday dresses. Wearstler and her signature studio,KWID, have quickly become one of the world’s mostsought-after design firms, primarily because her worktranscends style and place without appearing toostudied or overly trendy. To that end, Wearstler is notafraid to combine elements of Hollywood Regency,Rococo, Streamlined Modern and Chinoiserie in the

inter

iors

Kelly Wearstler lays it all on the line to make a grandstatement on style. By William Kissel

RISK MANAGEMENT

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DRAMATIC GLAMOUR UNDER THE SUN

ABU DHABI ANGUILLA BEVERLY HILLS BODRUM ISTANBUL MALDIVES MIAMI PALM SPRINGS RIVIERA MAYA SANTA MONICA SNOWMASS ST LUCIA ZIHUATANEJO

RESERVATIONS 800 237 3687 viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/palmspringsfacebook.com/viceroyps twitter.com/viceroyps

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66

same room, nor is she averse tomixing textures and materials suchas velvet, gold leaf, tortoise shell,buffalo horn, stainless steel andglass, among others, resulting inher own decorative anarchy.

“All of my interiors are fun, yetstill sophisticated and elegant;they are spirited and soulful andfull of elements that are raw andrefined,” says Wearstler, whosestamp is on countless boutiquehotels and residential estates aswell as Bergdorf Goodman’s signa-ture restaurant, BG, in New York.

“To me there is no place forrigidity in design,” revealsWearstler, who is fond of what shecalls ‘unexpected style.’“Unexpected style is mixing differ-ent periods together, or creatingtension in a room with differentpieces of furniture and color.Mixing 10 different woods and fourdifferent fabrics creates somethingtruly unexpected. But if you knowwhat you’re doing, it can look veryseamless and pleasing to the eye,”she maintains.

The daughter of an engineerand a wannabe interior designer,Wearstler grew up surrounded bybeautiful and unusual objects, tex-tures and colors. “My home wasalways in a state of flux; I’d comehome from school and the livingroom would be an entirely differ-ent color,” she says, referring tothis constant evolution of style asa rhapsody, coincidentally alsothe name of her new book forRizzoli. “Rhapsody is about abunch of things, different periods,scales and textures, comingtogether to create a beautifulspace,” she explains. “I’ve alwayswanted to inspire people to takerisks and to create environmentsthat feel spirited.”

Kelly Wearstler’s firstforay into apparel was asignature women’s wearcollection in the spring of2011. But the designersays it took her more thanfour years of trial anderror before introducingthe brand.

“Designing ready-to-wear clothing was one ofthe hardest things I’veever attempted,” she toldthe L.A. Times at thetime. “Learning fashion islike speaking another lan-guage,” she insists.Nevertheless, Wearstler’seponymous fashion label,now in its third season,has evolved into the sortof amalgam of texturesand styles one mightexpect from the quintes-sential risk-taker.

“Fashion is just anoth-er form of art anddesign. Both forms fueleach other,” she says,adding that fashion haslong influenced her inte-riors so the transitionseemed only natural.“Having access to fash-ion fabrics—like high-tech materials that looklike something youmight see in scubagear—has given me newideas for window cover-ings,” she says. “I’veused spikes and studsmade for biker jackets todecorate furniture. Iincorporate fashiontechniques, like ruching,

into upholstery and havemade amazing leatherchairs.”

Wearstler believes herclothing label is equallyunique because it incor-porates many of the stylepoints and materials sheuses in her interior work.“Looking at an antiqueor a piece of furniture Icreated will give meideas for the shape of a

dress or a jewelrydesign,” she explains.

Will the audaciousdesigner apply her vener-able talents to a line ofmenswear one day?“Funny you ask, becausemy son just asked me thesame thing this morning,”says Wearstler, insistingthe answer is a resound-ing “no!” But we’d urgeher to reconsider.

SHE’S GOT THE LOOK

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When fourth-generation shirt makers David and KellyHamilton decided to extend the reach of their family’scustom shirts outside their Houston-based store, thesiblings knew they would have to keep a close eye ontheir distribution. “In our experience, [the product is]only as good as the salesperson on the floor. So wewanted to limit ourselves to only the best specialtystores in the country who know their products andtheir customers as well as we know ours,” says David.Hence, Hamilton’s signature shirts can only be foundin fewer than 30 of the top retailers nationwide.

Indeed, each Hamilton shirt—whether custom,made-to-measure or a product of the firm’s relativelynew Hamilton 188 ready-made collection—is a care-fully constructed work of art made from the finestItalian and Swiss fabrics (more than 500 varieties instock and an additional 700 on demand). They arehand-cut and hand-crafted entirely in America. Unlikeother shirt makers, nearly 80 percent of the 130-year-old Hamilton brand’s operation is still dedicated tothe lost art of bespoke, made-to-order shirt making, aprocess that allows the customer to choose his ownfabric, cut, button, collar and cuff style, among othersartorial details. Moreover, the firm still cuts its shirtsfrom a customer’s own signature paper pattern andproduces a prototype garment to allow for alterationsand client approval before completing every order.

What’s most unique about the Hamilton experience

is that the client never feels over-whelmed by the myriad options.“It’s like a menu in a restaurant,”says David. “There are infiniteoptions, but we don’t present it thatway. We think it’s best to make sug-gestions, so the client still controlsevery design aspect but without the bur-den of making every decision.”

Hamilton might be unknown to most who’ve neverventured inside the company’s original Texas shop,but the brand actually has deep roots. It began in 1883(hence the signature on its ready-made shirts) whenbrothers Edward and J. Brooke established HamiltonBrothers as a clothier producing everything from cus-tom-made suits to hats. Shirts became the family’sprimary focus after World War II, and over the yearsthe business passed from generation to generation.

Under Kelly and David’s stewardship, which beganin 2006, the label has expanded nationally and intro-duced a new collection of softly styled sport shirtswith a slightly slimmer fit to reach a younger demo-graphic. “The softer collar gives it a more contempo-rary feel, and the tail is shorter so it can be worn in orout. But we still use the highest quality fabrics thatappeal to a more classic customer,” says David.

Shirts range in price from roughly $225 (ready-made) to $325 (full bespoke).

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WE DO IT ALL—FROM MEASURING

AND HELPING CLIENTSSELECT THE DETAILS

OF THEIR SHIRTS TO FASHIONING THEFINISHED PRODUCT.

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A young Texas twosome reinvigorates their family’s greatAmerican shirt business. By William Kissel

BESPOKEN FOR

Davidand KellyHamiltonhaveexpandedthe familybusiness.

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RELAX. WE MAKE LOOKING GREAT EASY.

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Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson

GARDEN VARIETYT

his spring and summer, you could plant a few geraniums… or create your own private paradise. A simple patch at a small housein London, a garden featuring an Italian cascade in California, extravagant parks on great estates in France and Belgium:French landscape artist and garden designer Francois Goffinet develops the concepts and personally oversees the realization

of his projects all over the world. Aficionados who prefer to do it themselves can still have a touch of the master with pieces fromMonsieur Goffinet’s recently introduced classical garden furniture collection, which includes a wood chair, armchair, footstool,stone table, tent and planters. He also offers advice: “Take care of the site and the genius loci.”

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VINO DA CANTAREA

few miles from Florence near the smallvillage of Lajatico is the Bocelli vine-yard, which has belonged to the family

of world-famous tenor Andrea Bocelli forgenerations. (Andrea’s sister-in-law Cinziaand brother Alberto manage the azienda andgreet guests; Mama Bocelli can often befound hand-tying vines in the fields.) Nexttime you’re touring the Tuscany region ofItaly, you might spend a charming afternoonvisiting with the Bocellis and tasting theirwines, then stop for dinner at Ristorante LaVallata just a short distance away. Thisrestored farmhouse has several Bocelli winesin the cellar, or you can choose a favorite atthe vineyard and bring it with you. Settle onthe terrace surrounded by cypress and olivetrees dating back to the 1700s and dine onentrées the chef creates to pair with theBocelli wines.

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RIVER WORLDR

osa River Cruises sail along historically fascinating waterways. There’s the Blue Danube cruise that meanders up this romanticriver to Slovakia, Hungary, Serbia and Croatia. The cruise along the Rhine docks at castles, cities (including Mozart’s birthplace)and the mysterious Black Forest (both ships offer travelers private tours of museums and great châteaux). On board, local, often

rare wines are served. There’s a spa with one-way glass walls (so guests can view the passing scene while having a treatment), gym,lounge with a dance floor, sun deck, swimming pool, putting green, whirlpool and shuffleboard court. The restaurant features region-al dishes; if you’re too entranced by the view to go inside to eat, the chef will arrange to have your dinner served on deck.

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1494 Club: A New York-based whisky club direct-ly targeting high earners,1494 honors the privatesocial clubs of the 19thcentury. Founder DavidClelland has secured anundisclosed townhouse inManhattan where mem-bers can convene for tast-ings and curate their per-sonal collections.Founding Members($175,000) gain access toScotland distillery andgolf course trips via pri-vate jet, while Collectormemberships ($25,000and up) also boast manyperks. “I wanted to offeran experience, and a life-time commitment for col-lectors,” says Clelland.

The Whisky Dog:Founder NicholasPollacchi is an affable,stylish young Scotsmanwho has worked all anglesof the whisky trade. Whathe felt was missing wereprivate tasting eventscustomized to meet acompany’s or individual'sneeds. Meet The WhiskyDog. “We’re all about sit-ting down with the clientand creating the kind ofexperience they want tocreate. Is it focused onhigh-end, rare product, oris it a one-to-one Scotch101 seminar with youngerexecutives?” asksPollacchi. In addition tooffering a large range ofspecialty whiskies,Pollacchi can customizeevents to include extraslike fine cigars, a bespoketailor, food pairings andmusical entertainment.

Branded Whisky Clubs:Groups like the GlenlivetGuardians, 1801 ChivasBrotherhood and theCustodians of TheDalmore provide extraperks for your favoritebrands. Sign up online andgain access to early releas-es of new expressions, pri-vate tasting events andmore. The GlenlivetGuardians, for example,have sole access to theGuardian Single CaskEdition (about$300), and to athree-day"WhiskySchool" at theSpeyside dis-tillery,includingthe opportu-nity to bot-tleyourownwhisky.

The Scotch Malt WhiskySociety of America: Thisbranch of the popularEdinburgh-based Societyallows members theopportunity to sample andbuy rare single-caskexpressions, custom-madefor SMWS. Bottles areidentified by number (i.e.Cask No 106.18) ratherthan distillery, to allow thewhisky to speak for itself.The date of distillation,number of bottles andtasting notes are printedon each bottle.Membership is $229

(which includes a kitwith four samplewhiskies), and anannual renewal fee of

$60. Members alsoget discountedadmission to tastingevents.

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Single malt fans have more options than ever to customizetheir drinking. By Robert Haynes-Peterson

BESPOKE BOOZEIt’s an excellent time for connoisseurs of single malt Scotch whisky. Distilleries are expanding, produc-tion is up, with more iterations of fine and rare releases than ever before. For those seeking even moreunusual drinking options, a cottage industry of whisky clubs and concierge services has arisen to assistin customizing your whisky experience like never before.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR SAMPLING FINE AND RARE

WHISKIES (OR STORING YOUROWN COLLECTION), ARE

INCREASINGLY POPULAR.BUT THEY DON’T ALWAYS

COME CHEAP.

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