midwest ice climbing history 15-2011
TRANSCRIPT
An incomplete History ofMidwest Ice Climbing
Eric Landmann – Granite Publishing
1932 --Laurent Grivel added front points to crampons.
1958--Chouinard Equipment is formed in Ventura, CA by Yvon Chouinard.
1962--First lightweight, completely adjustable crampons invented by Salewa (Salewa “Classic”).
1964--Salewa ice screw invented.
1969--Chouinard began making ice axes with curved picks, a popular innovation which increased their utility on different surfaces.
1973--Great Pacific Iron Works Inc. was created by Chouinard in 1973. Chrome-moly pitons are Yvon’s new invention.
1974--Jeff Lowe and Mike Weiss climb Bridalveil Falls, Colorado.
1978
1979
1980--Shaun Parent, Joanne Murphy and Paul Dedi climb Kakabeka Falls, probably the first time ice was climbed in the region.--At Munising, Dairyland (WI5, 50m) by Paul Kuenn. Ahead of his time!
1981--First climb done in Orient Bay (Tempest) led by Paul Dedi. Equipment included one 11-meter rope, four ice screws, a 75cm ice axe and a short rock hammer.
1982--Paul Landry and Guy Lacelle climb Glace Eclatante (WI3+, 55m).
1983--Alpine Outing FA by Shaun Parent and Ed Iwasa.
1984--Second edition of Climber's Guide to Thunder Bay by Shaun Parent is published listing 22 ice climbs.
1985--Ice Stud (WI2, 55m) FA by Shaun Parent and Dave Pugliese.--Curtain Call and White Lightning were FA'd by Shaun and partners.
1985
1986
Climber's Guide to the Ice of Orient Bayby Shaun Parent is released.
Includes 78 routes, a few maps, no photos.
Mellow YellowGoMar FallsGlace EclatanteRemember the DayRanxerox TangentThe Adrenaline SolutionEveil des SensHigh Fidelity
Reflection WallCascade FallsObesessionTempestTears of JoySycho IcychoAndromeda WeepsStarquake
Routes done by 1986
1986
Governor Dodge
1986
Governor Dodge
1986
Lone Rock
Downriver
1986
Lone Rock
Upriver
1987
Governor Dodge
Stephen’s Falls
1989
Gibraltar Rock
1999
The Ice Pit
1987–Ice Fest I happened almost by accident when Shaun and climbers from Toronto met up with a handful of local Thunder Bay and Minnesota climbers.
–Article in Climbing mag by Laurence Saroka about Orient Bay.
–Orient Bay guide supplement lists 16 new routes, including Parallax (Rone and B Lindquist), and 10% Real (Mike Dahlberg, Laurence Saroka, Melissa Quigley, and Steve Arneson).
On the FA of Parallax – “I did the first ascent of this route with Burt Lindquist in March of 1987. Tools were a Lowe Big Bird axe and a Hummingbird Hammer. Crampons were Footfangs on double-leather boots. Screws were Chouinards and an occasional pound-in Snarg. Gloves were Dachstein boiled wool. I remember being so pumped as I finished the lead I couldn't hang on to the tools anymore, my fingers were just opening up! Sheer terror and the fear of a hell of a fall got me to the top.” – Dave Rone
1989
Orient Bay – Tempest
1989
Orient Bay – McCollum’s Cabins
1988--In Agawa, Bridalveil Falls (WI3, 80m) by Shaun Parent and Chris Lloyd and Flying Circus (WI4+, 95m) by Shaun Parent and A. McColm.
1989--Black Diamond is formed.
--In Montreal River South Bay, first ascents of Steps to Rama (WI4, 140m) by Shaun Parent and Chris Loyd, and Solo Menagerie (WI5, 100m), and Comfortably Numb (WI4, 130m)
1990--Climbing mag #117 has a special Canadian issue, and mentions Orient Bay. This drives more visitors to Ice Fest IV.
1991--Getting Oriented (WI4, 55m) at Kama Bay is first climbed.
1991
Starved Rock
1991
1992
Orient Bay
CheeseheadAttack!
1992
1992Beardmore
1992
IceStationSuperior
1992
IceStationSuperior
1992 Hotel Normandie Nipigon
1993
1993
North of SuperiorOrient BayIce Climber’s Guideby Shaun Parent
Granite Publishing
1994 Starved Rock
1994
1995
1996
1996
Paradice
Xanadu
1996
Paradice
Unclimbed
(Purgatory)
1997
Agawa Canyon
Trestle
1997
Orient Bay
GlaceEclatante
1998
BlackDiamondCobra
BlackDiamondSabretooth
1998
Da Yoo Pee
A “waterfall” in the U.P.
1998
Redridge
1998
Ice Stud
Thunder Bay
1998
CrystalChandelier
Black River
1999
1999
Ice Fest XIII
China Gardens
1999
Ice Fest XIII
1999
Ice Fest XIII
1999
Powerline Falls
Kama Bay
1999
Agawa Canyon Map(1st Ed.)
1999
The Ice Pit
1999
Quarry Monster FA
Wyalusing
1999
Wyalusing
Tip onewith Denny
1999
Black River
Paradise
1999
2000
Dairyland
Munising
2000
2000
Dairyland
Munising
2000
Dairyland
Munising
2000
Dairyland
Munising
2000
Dairyland
Munising
2000
Eagle Canyon
Ontario
2000
Superior Ice
Granite Publishing
2000
Superior Icework session
2000
Michigan Ice Fest
MunisingCarnage
2000
Getting Oriented
Kama Bay
2000
Getting Oriented
Kama Bay
2000
Getting Oriented
Kama Bay
2001
Starved Rock
2001
Tonti
Starved Rock
2001
Dryer Hose
Munising
2001
SweetMotherMoses
Munising
2001
Mad Moose Lodge
Batchawana
2001
Mad Moose Lodge
Batchawana
2002
BlackDiamondViper
BlackDiamondFusion
2002
Domino Theory
Mt. McRae
2002
House of Cards
Mt. McRae
2002
Java
Kama Bay
2002
MichiganIceFest
2003
AsymmetricWarfare
Kama Bay
2003
NC-17
Kama Bay
2003
Uthitta
Kama Bay
2003
StoneColdCowboys
Kama Bay
2003
Stratosfear
Montreal River
2003
TorquoiseCoyote
Montreal River
2004
NipigonIceFest
2004 Wall of Doom Orient Bay
2004
Mythophobia
Orient Bay
2004
Trickle Trunk
Orient Bay
2004
Tryptophan
The Fishery
2004
Sport Fishing
The Fishery
2004
Stick Bait
The Fishery
2005
Petzl Nomic
2004
HandsandKnees
Kama Bay
2004
Shelob’s Lair
2004
Shelob’s Lair
Kama Bay
2004
Shelob’s Lair
Kama Bay
2005
Kama BayCakewalk
Kama Bay
2005
Kama Sutra
Kama Bay
2005
Kama Sutra
Kama Bay
2005
Parsec
Orient Bay
2005
Parsec
Orient Bay
2005
ProfessionalBusinessmen
Orient Bay
2005
PsychoticEpisode
Orient Bay
2005
Time Well Wasted
Orient Bay
2005
AuroraBorealis
Montreal River
2005
AgawaCanyonMap(2nd Ed.)
by Shaun Parent
Granite Publishing
2005
Agawa Canyon
SweatingWhiskey
2006 Wailing Wall South Gillies
2006
Dirty Laundry
Wailing Wall
2006
Just StepAround
Wailing Wall
2006
Ed’s Cafe
Paradice
2006
Arjumand’sShroud
Orient Bay
2006
EarlyRetirement
Orient Bay
2006
Mishepeshu
Orient Bay
2006
Relativity
Orient Bay
Wailing Wall
2006
Shaker's Dozen
Kama Bay
2006
Fumbledusk
Kama Bay
2006
Evanesce
Orient Bay
2006
Galadriel’sPhial
Kama Bay
2006
ReflectionWall
2006
Resolution
ReflectionWall
2007
2007
An Ice Climbers Guide to Munising, Michigan
1st Edition
By Jon Jugenheimer
2008
Black Gold
Paradice
2008
The Shining Path
Paradice
2008
The Shining Path
Kama Bay
2008
Purgatory
Kama Bay
2008
Purgatory
Kama Bay
2008
Obfuscation Overhang
Orient Bay
2008
Infidelity
Orient Bay
2010
B**** Road
?
2008
Eagle Eyes
Wyalusing
2010
Tatooine
Orient Bay