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Ouray Ice Climbing2006• Table of Contents

– Introductions– Working Together– OEI– Learning– Fear– Responsibility– Itinerary– Staying warm– First aid– Ice and Rock Slides– Avalanche Safety– Ice Park Safety

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Ouray Ice Climbing2006

• Introductions

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Working Together

• What is this?

• Why is a manhole cover round?

December 11, 2005

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OEI

• Outdoor Education Initiative– Learn everything

about leading and learning in the outdoors

– Diversity outcomes– Student success

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• Experiential Learning and Teaching

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Fear Factor

• Everyone experiences it• Effect on learning• We cope with it in different

ways:– Team support, team

building– Self talk– Focus on breathing

Vail 2005

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Responsibility• Climbers

– Personal safety– Partners safety– The environment– Access

• Land owners and managers• Rescue, self rescue and

preparedness

• Guides / instructors– Client safety– Learning– Preparedness

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Itinerary

• Meals• Meet at the dumpster at

8:30 AM• Climb until 2:00 PM,

de-rig, return by 3:00• Evenings, discretionary

time, your choice• Questions??

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Non cotton layers Foot gear

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Hypothermia

Px Dress for conditionsWatch out for each otherKeep warmReturn to hotel

TxRemove from conditionsRe-warm

Avoid direct heat:Hot tubHeat padsHot showerHot springs

Longs Peak 2005

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Frost Bite

PxGloves and mittensHand warmersHydrationEncourage circulation

Note: Cold feet and fingers = Pain!

TxRe-warm

Avoid direct heat:Hot tubHeat padsHot showerHot springs

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Common Injuries

PxStay alertGlovesHelmetStretch

Bruised knucklesMuscle sorenessBruised shins, knees, etcFacial bruises and lacerations

Common are minor

TxHIRISEHeat

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Knots:

Retraced figure of eight½ a double fisherman’sClove hitchMunter hitchPrusik

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• Top Bottom Belay

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• Top Belay

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• Lead Belay

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Early ice climbing

Ouray ‘97Clear Creek ‘79

Clear Creek ‘77

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I-70 ‘77Ten Mile ‘01

Clear Creek ‘97

French Technique

Pied troisieme

Early ice climbing

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Priest approach ‘88

A few rock climbing slides

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Blocktop F.A. 1984

A few rock climbing slides

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A few rock climbing slides

Echo Pinnacle‘90

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A few rock climbing slides

Dolomite Towersecond ascent ‘86

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A few rock climbing slides

Indian Creek‘81

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A few rock climbing slides

Standing Rockninth ascent

‘83

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Avalanche!An overview

Topics:Take a field courseWeather - 1 slideSnow pack - 5 slidesAssessing

snow pack – 1 slideTerrain/signs - 3 slidesEquipment - 1 slideRescue - 1 slide

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Weather1 slide

WindPrevailing Westerly

Air temperatures

Snow fall

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Snow pack5 slides

Bed surface

Hasty pits

Data pits

Assessingsnow pack

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Avalanches occur when slabs are not adequately anchored to bed surfaces and release

∆ In bond or load

A bed surface may be the ground or another layer within the snow pack

Bed Surface

Snow pack

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Hasty Pits

Hasty pits let you see into the snow pack

Evaluate:Bond between layers –Bed surfacesTemperature gradient

Dig to the ground in Colorado and other intercontinental mountain ranges

Snow pack

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1° / 10cm temperature gradient = In snow pack

Kinetic growthform crystals

Snow pack

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Data pits

Data pits provide Professionals with time line data to aid in avalanche forecasting

Snow pack

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Assessingsnow pack

1 slide

How easily do slabs in the snow pack slide on bed surfaces?

Rueschblock test

Shovel shear and shovel tap tests

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Terrain and signs

3 slides

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Alaska

Maritime range Glacial serac

Maritime v intercontinental

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Colorado

Inner-continental mountain range

Maritime v intercontinental

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Equipment 1 slide

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Rescue andSurvival

1 slide

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HelmetEye and face protectionToolsLeash-less toolsCramponsThe edgeThe riverFalling objects

IceRock

Cold weather

Safety

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Thank you!Questions? Comments?

Optional InfoOuray Web