my journey to the cassamance – rudy green · ke’ performed by sidiki diabate (senior) and i...
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![Page 1: My Journey to the Cassamance – Rudy Green · ke’ performed by Sidiki Diabate (senior) and I immediately knew I was in the right place. Abdou is an excellent kora luthier and I](https://reader033.vdocument.in/reader033/viewer/2022060607/605cc8136608303dad273a54/html5/thumbnails/1.jpg)
MyJourneytotheCassamance–RudyGreenDuringmysummerbreakIhadtheincredibleopportunitytovisitWestAfricatolearnandstudytherepertoireofthekorawhereitoriginates.Ihavebeenlearningforthepast2yearswithKadialyKouyateandwithhishelpandmanycontactsIchosetostudyinKoldaalongtheCassamanceRiverwherehegrewup.IarrivedinDakar,thecapitalofSenegal,lateatnightinAugustandwasgreetedbymyhostLamineSissokowhoworksasaprimaryschoolteacherandAbdouCissokho,thesonofthefamouskoraplayeroftheCassamance,SoundioulouCissokho(1921–1994).IleftforAbdou’shouseintheheartofthecapitalandwithinminutesofbeinginthecountrythetapeplayerincarblastsout‘Allahlake’performedbySidikiDiabate(senior)andIimmediatelyknewIwasintherightplace.AbdouisanexcellentkoraluthierandIwaswelcomedwith4korasinmyroom(thereweremorekorasthanfurniture!)whichwereonlyaselectionofover20thathehasbeenbuildingsince1988.ThatnightIshowedoffwhatIcouldalreadyplaystartingwith‘Kassoumama’apopularsongbySeckoubaBambinofromthe90’s.JustasIfinishedIcouldhearBakari(Abdou’sson)playingeverysonginthenextroom.ThroughoutmytripeverykoraplayerImetknewalmosttheentirevastkorarepertoirebutwhatismostfascinatingishoweachhastheirownstyleandflairofplayingthepieces,sometimessodifferentitsoundslikeanewpieceentirely.Ispent13hourstravelingina‘septplus’toKoldawithLamineinacrampedcarsharedby8people,ababyand2goats.Thisisthemostpopularwaytotravelasit’squitecheapbutit’safantasticwaytoseethelandscapeofBaobabsandlivelymarkets.
LearningwithVieuxKanouteofKolda
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IhadtwomainteachersinKolda,JeanDiabateandthelocalstarVieuxKanoutewhocollectivelytaughtmeover40piecesfromtheoldandmodernrepertoire.Ialsospentalotoftimelearningtheirstylesofimprovising.JeanhasacalmandpreciseapproachwhilstVieuxplaysatlightningspeed.
LearningwithJeanDiabate
Throughoutmywholestaytherewasmanydancepartiesscatteredacrosstheneighbourhoodthatarealwaysgreatfun.EveryonewilldressinabouboumadefromtheAfricanprintfabricsbeingsoldinthemarket.Mostofthemusicbeingplayedonmp3swasfromKoldaorSenegaleseartistswithafewSidikiDiabate(Mali)tunesthrowninthemix.OneofthepartieswasaliveperformancewithbothVieuxandJeanperformingandIwasinvitedonstagetoperformafewsongsonkorawiththeband.IwasalsoinvitedtoplaykoraonthelocalradiostationNafooreFM.Itwasdefinitelythehighlightofthetriptoplayinfrontofalargecrowdwhoweredancingandsingingalongtothechoruses.FromthenoneveryoneIpassedonthestreetknewwhoIwas.InmysparetimeIwouldplayfootballwiththekidsorthelocalfootballteamICReveonthepitch50yardsfromthecompound.EveryothermorninghundredsoflocalswouldgathertowatchRevecompeteintheKoldaleague.Onthe7thweekLamine’swifeFamagavebirthtoababygirl.KeepingwithtraditionofnamingthebabyafteryourguestshewasnamedFloraIsotoSissoko,Florabeingthenameofmygrandmother.Atthenamingceremonyallofthefamilyandfriendsgatheredandenjoyedaricepuddingbreakfasttogetheraftertheyhadofficiatedthename.Thewomensang‘YeJaliyaDa’apraisesongforJalimusicians,whichwasalsothefirstsongIhadlearntatSOAS.ThankstoeveryonewhohelpedmeorganisemytripandaspecialthankyoutotheJohnTaylorMusicTravelGrantforthefundingtomakethistriphappen.