my pages in paris select magazine's fall 2009 issue

8/4/2019 My pages in Paris Select magazine's fall 2009 issue

1/13

10

MODE/FASHION

Lopulence gnre par le boom

des dernires annes sombre dans

lanonymat, laissant place la subtilit

et au raffinement prn aujourdhui

par la classe suprieure. Cet hiver,

la femme est LGANTE et assume pleinement sa

silhouette, sans pourautant exhiber sa fortune par le

bling bling du pass ; le prestige

ne se mesure plus par les dpenses

frivoles mais plutt par celles bien

rflchies.Le luxe est dans lacouleur, dans ltoffe, dans le scrupule enfin ;les matires sont riches, les coupes impeccables,

le tout format en uneSIMPLICIT

remarquable et distingue. Les lignes sont ultrafminines, presque exagres, encore unefois cet infaillible renvoi aux annes 1980. Quil

soit court ou long, le manteau de vos rves sera

toujours cintr la taille, les paules tantt mises

en valeur, louverture parfois croise. La forme

aperue partout reste celle du peignoir, ici neutre et

SOBRE, ailleurs exagre, mais toujours dune toffe

riche et prcieuse.

Retrouvez-vous dans lun des trois profils suivants afin

dentamer votre shopping !

The last decade has generated the kind of

opulence that has since given way to a more

subtle refinement, the sort that todays elite

identifies with. Ladies this Winter are all woman

and have gotten word to unapologetically

emphasize their figures, all the while refraining

from flaunting their riches as weve seen in our

bling bling past. Prestige is nowadays an affair of

good measure as opposed to frivolous spending.

Luxury finds itself through colors, fabrics, restraint;

materials are rich, fits are impeccable, all formatted

into a remarkable and distinguished simplicity.

The almost exaggerated lines represent the essence

of femininity, once again a throwback to the 80s.

Whether you decide on a short version or a long one,

your coat will always be cinched at the waist, will

sometimes be double-breasted and your shoulders

will be concisely accentuated. The shape seen everywhere

is that of a housecoat, over here neutral and temperate, over

there seriously dramatized, though always crafted with the

most exquisite fabrics. Uncover yourself in one of the following

profiles to commence your shopping!

PUTYOURCOATON!

Sortezcouvert

cetHIVERcetHIVERcetSortez

couvertes

cetHIVER

MaxMaraPhotosD

R

E N G L I S H

!"#$%&'()*+,,,-% %-.-/.%0,,,-/12&


2/13

11

MODE/FASHION

Are you bold and eternally

optimistic? For the more daring

ones there were pieces in

gorgeous gem colors that could

not be ignored, certainly a subtle

reference to jewelry: emerald,

gold, amethyst, sapphire, ruby,

pearl... Chicness will always go

hand in hand with luster, even in

this weather!

Designers are taking advantage of

this economical crunch to cement

fashions relevance. Indeed, if the

climate seems a little depressing,

the one thing we should turn to is an

object of fantasy! Getting dressed

remains a primary need, so why not

choose a vibrant hue in this cold

season to put a smile on our faces?

RESOLUTELYPOSITIVE

Vous tes INTRPIDE, uneternelle OPTIMISTE? Il y agalement les incontournables

teintes de joyaux pour les plus

tmraires, certainement une

subtile rfrence aux bijoux :

meraude, jaune dor,

amthyste, saphir, rubis,

perle. Le chic saccorde

lclat, mme dans un tel

climat !

Les crateurs profitent de

cette rupture conomique

pour ancrer la pertinence

de la mode. En effet, si

lambiance est quelque peuglauque, les objets fantai-

sistes se doivent de lui don-

ner la rplique ! Shabiller

demeure tout de mme un

besoin primaire et quoi de

mieux quune VIBRANTECOULEUR en plein hiverpour nous mettre

le sourire aux lvres ?

Rsolument

Positive

Sonia Rykiel

Dior

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs

DKNY

Alberta Ferretti

Alberta Ferretti

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

PhotosD

R

E

E

!"#$%&'()*+,,,-- %-.-/.%0,,,-/123


3/13

12

Chanel

MODE/FASHION

!"#$%&'()*+,,,-. - - ,,,- 1

13

VOUS TES LA PARISIENNEparexcellence et nosez la couleur quen agenant teintes

de GRISetBLANCS votre uniforme obscur ?Nayez crainte car cette saison, cest leNOIR quilemporte, ayant t la couleur de prdilection sur

les podiums dun ocan lautre. Chaque crateur

se charge dincarner cette nuance, sans doute

un clin dil au lourd climat conomique. Si les

couleurs sont neutres et absentes, ce sont les dtails

quil faut rechercher. Ils sont subtils mais dune

minutie exquise, truffant les manteaux simples de

somptuosit. LaSOBRITnaura jamais taussi CHIC.

Are you the embodiment of quintessential Parisian style? If

you consider that greys and the occasional whites mean

highlighting your dark uniform with color, you have certainly

been served. Black is in fact the shade of the season,

as seen everywhere on the runways from New York

to Paris. Perhaps a footnote to the economical crisis,

however, every designer has given themself the task

of personifying this hue. If colors are neutral, look for

conspicuous and sumptuous detailing that make the

most exquisite pairing with sobriety. The latter will have

never been so chic.

aussi CHIC .

Absolument

Parisienne

the embodiment of quintessential Parisian style? Ifyou consider that greys and the occasional whites meanhighlighting your dark uniform with color, you have certainly

been served. Black is in fact the shade of the season,as seen everywhere on the runways from New Yorkto Paris. Perhaps a footnote to the economical crisis,

however, every designer has given themself the task

most exquisite pairing with sobriety. The latter will have

Absolutely Parisian

Roksanda Ilincic

Dior

Andrew Gn

Martin Margiela

Rochas

Lanvin

Chanel

Moschino

MaxMaraAlberta Ferretti

MODE/FASHION

PhotosD

R

E

!"#$%&'()*+,,,-. %-/-0/%1,,,-02.3


4/13

14

MODE/FASHION

Kenzo

PhotosD

R

!"#$%&'()*+,,,-. %-/-0/%1,,,-0234

15

Do you choose to

stay away from black

without wanting to

attract too much

attention? Do

you consider that

natures elements

represent the

perfect color

palette? Then

go with a

coat in this

seasons crisp

shades: a

rich cream or

camel, a delicate

desert rose, a chic

lavender grey or

a luxurious earthy

khaki. Noble materials

emerge at the forefront of

these simple yet refined

and polished styles that

let themselves

be graciously

dominated by

magnificent

skins,

deliciously

tender

cashmeres,

royal tweeds or

even the most

radiant silks.

Vous prfrez vous loi-

gner du noir sans pour

autant trop attirer latten-

tion et vous concdez les

couleurs delanature commetant celles qui vous vont ?

Prenez alors votre man-

teau dans les nuances cls

de la saison, soit un riche

crme oucamel,un dlicat rose brl, unchic gris lavande, ou encore

un somptueux kaki terreux.

La noblesse des mat-

riaux merge au premier

rang : unecoupepure se laissedomine par une magni-

fique peau, un cachemire

dlicieusement moelleux,

un tweed digne dune reine

ou encore une soie des plus

resplendissantes.

Terre terreDes picesenivrantesaux teintesnature vous

sduirontjusqu enCLBRERlarrive dufroid !

Downto earth

Youll be

CELEBRATING

the colds arrival

when you see

these intoxicating

pieces in

naturaltones!

Dfinitivement

Naturelle

MODE/FASHION

Bottega Veneta

Jil Sander

MaxMara

Diane Von Furstenberg

Halston

PradaPhotosD

R

E

!"#$%&'()*+,,,-& %-.-/.%0,,,-/123


5/13

24

Vritable

virtuose deson temps,

il inonde ses

collections de rfrences lart conceptuel

et larchitecture, cherchant perptuellement

rinterprter les formes sculpturales artistiques.

Reconnu pour ses pices la fois graphiques et fluides, il sassure

immanquablement dinjecter une forte dose de sensualit dans ses

crations. Son approche plus technique du design lui permet de se

diffrencier radicalement de ses contemporains et lui assure une place

consolide au rang des gnies de son milieu. Balenciaga sempare de lui

en 2001 pour la conception de leurs chaussures : depuis, il fait tomber

les fashionistas, offrant une parfaite complmentarit aux vtements de

Nicolas Ghesquire.

Le patrimoine de la maison Roger Vivier

lgu par le crateur pourrait sembler

difficile assumer pour un directeur

artistique. Pourtant, celui qui fut confie

la tche, Bruno Frisoni, ne se rabat pas

devant le dfi. Son approche lyrique face

la cration de chaussures est lune des

plus potiques, ses collections antrieures

ayant t baptises Poses bohmes ou encore Vnus beaut .

Cet as des rubans apporte romantisme et renouveau une

ancienne maison dsute qui connat prsent un come-back

limage de ses nouvelles collections, plus prestigieuses que

jamais.

Nayant tout

de mme pas

eu besoin de

sassocier

une grande

marque de

prt--porter

pour que

son nom

percute, Giuseppe Zanotti vient par

ailleurs de cimenter son hritage

dans le luxe en chaussant les

derniers dfils Balmain, crant

ainsi lenvoutement culte surnomm

Balmania que lui ddient les

fashionistas. Il sduit dabord

les stars dHollywood, puis les

rdactrices et stylistes qui

succombent les unes aprs

les autres ses crations

reconnues pour leurs

minutieux dtails. La

chaussure Zanotti

se distingue par ses

fourrures, cristaux,

textures et maintes

peaux, attributs

lmentaires de ses

chefs duvre.

Cest le petit nouveau de la

bande mais pas le moins important.

Depuis tout juste 2005, ce prodige de la

chaussure sme le dsir chez les fashionistas

grce sa marque ponyme sous laquelle

il cre des souliers se rapprochant souvent

duvres dart. Ses pices hyper conceptuelles

peuvent sembler vertigineusement intimidantes

mais leur distinction frique fait tout simplement quelles sont

instantanment reconnaissables. Il na pas fini de remuer le monde de

la chaussure, ce cher Nicholas, surtout pas sil est demand de Chlo

jusqu Rodarte !

Bruno FrisonichezRoger Vivier

!"#$%&&%'()*+,,"'

MODE/FASHION

Nicholas

ShoesFetishists

Kirkwood

PierreHardy

La Parisienne est perche sur des talonsvertigineux () la recherche de lindispensable

108me paire de chaussures () qui lui fera ladmarche chaloupe, la chute de reins cambre,

le sein arrogant, le nez un peu en lairStella Cadente

PhotosD

R

t

!"#$%&'()*+,,,-. %/0/-0%1,,,/-234


6/13

25

Christian LouboutinLultime icne de la chaussure sduisante, Louboutin est un nom pour lequel

nul prambule nest requis. Les semelles rouges des plus sublimes talons hauts

de nos temps sont devenues lincontestable emblme du soulier vertigineux au

fminin absolu. Convoites par toutes les femmes de la plante, de la mre de

famille la plus grande actrice, ses chaussures sont cres en vue dvoquer non

seulement beaut et lgance, mais passion et exaltation. Enfiler une Louboutin

transforme la jambe, le corps, la manire de se porter, de se conduire. Des

chaussons magiques ? Presque

Ultimate icon of seductive footwear, Louboutin is a name that needs no

introduction. The red soles are somewhat of a legend, having graced the bottom

of the most sublime high heels ever made, exuding the most uncompromising

femininity. Its no wonder women across the world, from the stay at home mother

to the most glamorous actress, lust over these shoes. They are made to reflect not

only beauty and elegance, but also passion and excitement. By simply slipping

on a Louboutin, the whole leg changes, as well as the entire body and the way a

woman carries herself. Magic slippers? Perhaps

J'aime que les femmes voient meschaussures comme de beaux objets,une sorte de bijou hors mode, dou

d'un univers propre. Le soulier n'est

pas un accessoire, c'est un attribut.Christian Louboutin

MODE/FASHION

t

PhotosD

R

E N GL I S H

!"#$%&'()*+,,,-& %./.-/%0,,,.-123


7/13

26

PhotosD

R

t

Pierre HardyAs an absolute virtuoso of his time, Hardy generously references conceptual

art and architecture throughout his collections. Never does he shy away from

reinterpreting sculptural shapes, as doing so has become somewhat of his

trademark. Known indeed for his duality of graphic and fluid lines, he nonetheless

consistently ensures the injection of sensuality in every pice. His approach being

as technical as it is allows him to set himself apart and to rise meteorically to the

top of the shoe chart. Balenciaga nabbed him in 2001 and he hasnt looked back

since, his vision harmonizing perfectly with Nicolas Ghesquires.

Bruno FrisoniThe legacy left by Roger Vivier was not going to be an easy one to live up

to for the artistic director who was going to have to assume the position at the

legendary house. However, Bruno Frisoni was up for the challenge and did not

disappoint. His lyrical approach to designing footwear is something of a poem,

having baptised his earlier collections "Bohemian Poses" or "Venus Beauty".

Frisoni brings romance and freshness to this formerly dated house currently

experiencing a comeback, all thanks to a dose of prestige administered by this

spirited designer.

Giuseppe ZanottiAlthough it wasnt necessary for Mr. Zanotti to associate himself to a big prt-

-porter house for his name to be ingrained, he has now sealed his legacy in the

grand world that is luxury by creating the footwear responsible for "Balmania" that

has since lent itself to a cult following among fashionistas the world over. Having

first charmed the Hollywood scene, fashion editors and stylists are now falling at

his feet, no pun intended. His use of fur, crystals, various textures and skins make

for a truly unique shoe.

Nicholas KirkwoodHes the new kid on the block, but that certainly does not make him any

less relevant. Since 2005 only, this footwear prodigy has been spreading

serious desire with his eponymous label, under which he creates wearable

pieces of art. Kirkwoods highly conceptual vertigo inducing heels may

look intimidating, however their fantasy-like quality makes them instantly

recognizable, sign of a true legend in the making. I suppose this explains

why hes in such high demand, from the French ingnue label Chlo to the

wild and edgy American house Rodarte.

Completelycrazyforbo

ots!

ProenzaSchouler

Casadei

Dior

CostumeNa

tional

ChristianLo

uboutin

RobertoCav

alli

JohnGalliano

Larare

* I love when women see my shoes as beautiful items, a kind of off-fashion

jewel with a world of its own. A shoe is not an accessory, it is an attribute.

Christian Louboutin

* The Parisian woman is high up on towering heels (...) looking for the vital

108th pair of shoes (...) that will give her a swinging way of walking, a curved

small of the back, a proud bosom, a slightly uplifted nose... Stella Cadente

MODE/FASHION

E

E

E

E

!"#$%&'()*+,,,-. %/0/-0%1,,,/-234


8/13

2727

MODE/FASHION

La cuissarde fait fureur sur tous les

podiums de la saison ! Quelle soit

en version chaussure de jardinagecomme chez Prada ou faon legging

la Stella McCartney, cette botte

perd sa connotation de vulgarit et

sinscrit dans les nouveaux codes de

la femme moderne.

Th igh High boo ts a re a l l the

rage th i s season! Whether they r e

rem in i scent o f a ga rden ing c log

l a Prada o r whether we confuse

them wi th l egg ings, as seen a t

Ste l l a McCar tney, th i s boo t l oses

i ts r e ference to i ndecency and

becomes complete l y ma inst r eam.

Il semble quelles serontllment cl de nimporte

quelle tenue russie*Mamas a Rolling Stone

MarcJacobs

Isabel Marant

Rodarte

Prada

Chanel

CesarePaciotti

DiegoDolc

ini

* Looks like they will be the key element toany successful outfit. Mamas a Rolling Stone

t

PhotosD

R

StuartWeit

zman

E

!"#$%&'()*+,,,-. %/0/-0%1,,,/-23.


9/13

28

Celui qui sest

autoproclam

lhomme le

plus superficie

l dumonde

estpratiqueme

nt

unerockstar!

Sans doutelun

des crateurs

lespluslous

denotre po

que,tout ce q

ue

KarlLagerfeld

entreprend con

natun succs

dmesur.Non

seulementpr

te-t-il son cray

on

lamaisonCh

anel,Fendiain

siqusamarq

ue

ponyme,maisi

lseveutgalem

entphotograph

e

latte duL

agerfeld Gallery

, oles contra

ts

de shootings

mode semulti

plient.Il cumu

le

galementles

collaborations s

pciales entou

s

genres:ourson

enpeluchegrif

f?Oui,madam

e!

Adeptedelittr

ature etdemu

sique,M.Chane

l

estsupposmen

tlheureuxpro

pritairedunpe

u

plusde100iPo

dsetilserfr

eponctuelleme

nt

sesmultiples

bibliothquest

otalisant enviro

n

300000livres.Lunettesf

umessurlen

ez, col

montant,bague

s auxdoigtsetgantsa

uxmains,

la seule chose

dontilserait d

pourvu estla

modestie, ayan

t affirm entre

autres : Je

ne

veuxpasmepo

sertropdeque

stionsparcequ

e

j'aitrop defac

ilits aveclesr

ponses.Ame

n.

MODE/FASHION

KARL, JOHN& MARC

Les rois mages de la mode

KARL

LAGERFEL

D

Gaspard, Melchior et Balthazar ? Karl, John et Marc, plutt ! Ils ont chacun leur tour redfini lesthtique

de leurs gnrations et prodigieusement influenc la mode depuis leurs entres respectives en

scne. Leurs prnoms suffisent pour sy rfrer et en guise dor, de myrrhe et dencens, ces trois

mages caractrisent limage du style en lguant leur gnie aux vtements des maisons les plus

renommes. Ils passent du statut dicne celui de caricatures instantanment identifiables tout en

crant tout coup les tendances et en se forgeant des personnages limage de leurs uvres. Cest

dailleurs John Galliano qui offre de sages paroles en dclarant : On devient ce que l'on cre.

Effectivement.

Caspar, Melchior and

Balthasar?More like Karl, John

and Marc! Theyve each had

their turn at redefining their

generations aesthetic, having

influenced fashion in ways

weve hardly ever seen. Known

by their first names only, in lieu

of gold, myrrh and frankincensethese three Wise Men mark

styles modern take by lending

their talent to the worlds most

prestigious luxury houses.

Theyve all gone from true icon

status to seriously unmistakable

caricatures, all the while

relentlessly creating trends and

reimagining themselves as a

reflection of their work. In fact,

John Galliano once declared

that we become what we

create. Indeed.

The self-proclaimed most

superficial man on the planet is

practically a rock star! Being without

a doubt one of the most acclaimed

designers of our times, everything

Karl Lagerfeld touches seems

to turn to gold. Not only does he

hold the title of creative director at

Chanel, Fendi and his eponymous

label, but he also fancies himself

a fashion photographer, helming

the Lagerfeld Gallery under which

he shoots countless editorials.

Furthermore, he accumulates

special collaborations: brand name

teddy bear? Yes, mam! As a big

music and literature enthusiast, we

should assume that he regularly

listens to his more than 100 iPodsand consults his few 300 000 books

scattered through his countless

libraries. Never seen without his

shades, a high collar, excessive

amounts of rings and fingerless

gloves, its safe to say that the only

thing the Kaiser lacks is modesty: I

dont want to ask myself too many

questions because I always have

the answers. Amen. * Im not a

marketing person. I dont ask

myself questions. I go by instinct.

Je ne pense pas au marketing.

Je ne me pose pas de questions.

Jy vais par instinct. Karl Lagerfeld PhotosD

R

E N G L I S H

E

!"#$%&'()*+,,,-. %/0/-0%1,,,/-23.


10/13

29

Upon his arrival on the scene

he was dubbed the Enfant Terrible

of fashion due to his highly non-

commercial creations. Gallianos

been his own master ever since

he started, which served him

quite well seeing as American

Vogues ice queen, Anna Wintour,

promptly recommended him ascreative director for Christian

Dior. His influence sprung a total

new dynamic into the house and

resonated deeply with women the

world over, having been won over

by his spin on the crosscut, thus

helping to catapult him to worship

worthy status. Due to his endless

imagination and unwillingness

to compromise, hes paved the

way for younger designers like

Alexander McQueen. His clothing

may not be for the shrinking violet,

seeing as the guy prefers bad

taste over no taste at all, but

one things for certain, theres no

getting bored at his fashion shows!

* we become what we create.

Dssonarrive,o

nlesurnommele

nfantterribledel

a

modepoursescr

ationsditesnon

commercialisable

s.

En effet, Gallian

onenfait qu

satte depuis se

s

dbuts, ce quilu

ivalutunerecom

mandation chez

ChristianDior aup

ostededirecteur

artistique dela

partdelalgendaireglacialeAnn

aWintour,rdactr

ice

enchefduVogue

amricain.Soni

nfluencesusciteun

lan dedynamis

melamaison

Dior etsonimp

act

retentitpartout

:lesfemmes son

t sduitespar so

n

interprtationde

lacoupeenbiais,l

emodleaveclequ

el

ilancresamarqu

e,lepropulsantau

rangdescrateur

s

lesplus aduls.

Ilpavele chem

inpourdesjeun

es

commeAlexande

rMcQueen grc

e sonimaginai

re

dbordant et so

n succs obtenu

sans concessio

n.

Ses crations so

ntpeut-tretrs

labores,naya

nt

pas timagine

spourdes adept

esduminimalism

e,

puisqueMonsieu

rprfrelemauv

aisgotlabsen

ce

totale de got ,

maisune chose

est certaine, onn

e

risquepas de s

ennuyerlors du

n de ses dfils

!

MODE/FASHION

This American splits his time

between New York and Paris, where

he spends his days reinventing

the famed Louis Vuitton leather

goods house and generating a

cult following, thus giving a new

meaning to the it bag. To top it

off, his eponymous label personifies

the Big Apples fashion scene,

where Marc allows himself random

cameos in ber popular series

such as Gossip Girl and The Hills.

Practically a celebrity himself, he not

only shares his initials with the King

of Pop but hes also known for his

strokes of genius (he was infamously

canned from Perry Ellis in 1992 after

showing his grunge collection, theone that would later launch the

entire movement in fashion). Rebel

always, recurrent theme among our

Wise Men, Marcs got over thirty

tatoos and has had his share of

rehab stints before turning his life

around a few years ago to lead a

clean living. Surely to go with one of

his mottos: I love to take things that

are everyday and comforting and

make them into the most luxurious

things in the world. Well done,

Marc! * Its quite nice to see that I

didnt have to change who I was

to reach two very different types

of people.

LAmricaindelatroupepartagesontempsentreNewYorketParis,o

ilrinventelamaroquinerieLouisVuittonendevritablesobjetscultes

vnrsparlesadeptesdeitbagdelaplante.Deplus,samarquepo-

nymepersonnifielamodedanslaGrossePomme,oMarcsepermetdes

apparitionsdansdessriescommeGossipGirletTheHills.Vedetteson

heure,nonseulementpartage-t-illesinitialesduroidelapopmaisilest

reconnupoursescoupsdegnie(ilsestfaitmmorablementremercier

dechezPerryEllis lasuitedesoninterprtationdugrungeen1992,

lacollectionquidiffusalecourantsurlasurfaceduglobe).merebelle

toujours,thmercurrentcheznostroismages, ilesttatouplusde30fois

etfaitunepoignedecuresdedsintoxjusqucequilsereprenneen

mainrcemmentdanslebutdemeneruneexistencesaineetquilibre.

Srementpouralleravecsadevisedetransformerdesobjetsquotidiens

etconfortablesenchoseslesplusluxueusesdumonde.Bienjou,Marc!

JOHNGALLIAN

O

MARCJACOBS

On devient ce que lon cre.John Galliano

Cest plutt bien de voir queje nai pas eu changer quijtais pour pouvoir toucherdeux types de personnes trs

diffrents. Marc JacobsPhotosD

R

E

E

!"#$%&'()*+,,,-. %/0/-0%.,,,/-123


11/13

30

COULISSES/BACKSTAGE

Photos-Dior@S

ophieCarre

t

-

ir

hiC

rr

!"#$%&'()*+ -% %./.0/%1, .02-3

31

-

ir

i

rr

La mode nchappe certes pas au flau de la situation conomique,

comme nous avons pu le constater. Au cours des prsentations des

collections automne hiver 2009, les grands crateurs ont su donner la

rplique la menaante situation prcaire. En effet, lors des dernires

annes nous avons assist des dfils sensationnels, tous plus labors

les uns que les autres, transforms en extraordinaires mises en scne

conceptuelles. Cependant, plusieurs designers se sont rconcilis avec

les valeurs fondamentales dautrefois, semblerait-il, en optant pour

des prsentations intimes et une liste dinvits plutt restreinte. John

Galliano chez Dior a prfr prsenter son plus rcent dfil Haute

Couture dans les salons de la maison, Avenue Montaigne, devant un

public lu et loin des extravagances des saisons antrieures. Malgr

lintimit du lieu, la collection spectaculaire prend toute la vedette

et fait oublier toute inquitude. videmment que je suis conscient

du resserrement du crdit, mais ce nest pas un resserrement de la

crativit enfin, jamais chez Dior , affirme M. Galliano. New York,

Marc Jacobs a choisi de sabstenir en fermant ses portes aux clbrits,

nautorisant que la prsence des gens de la presse, ainsi quen annulant

ses lgendaires post clbrations. Dailleurs, le Council of Fashion

Designers of America (CFDA) sest rcemment rassembl pour se

pencher sur la pertinence actuelle des grands dfils prix exorbitants.

De plus, Grace Coddington, directrice artistique du Vogue amricain,

voquait dernirement avec nostalgie le temps o le star systme

hollywoodien nempitait pas sur la sphre exclusive de la mode, un temps

o ce groupe uvrait pour lui-mme sans avoir de comptes rendre.

As one may have noticed, the world of fashion

is certainly not impervious to the affliction that is the current

precarious economy. The Fall/Winter 09 presentations had us

watching as designers were retaliating against a threatening

dubious situation. Through the years weve witnessed fashion

shows as grand spectacles, all of them more impressive

than the next. However, designers these past few seasons

seem to have given each other the word to downsize their

affair, opting instead for more intimate presentations with

a significantly reduced audience. Could this mean a return

to more fundamental values? John Galliano at Dior went

the quiet route and showcased his most recent Couture

collection right in the salons on Avenue Montaigne to a select

crowd of a chosen few, therefore veering very far from his

previous elaborate demonstrations. However, the spectacular

collection stole the show in spite of the intimacy of the

location, leaving thoughts of money woes at the door. Of

course Im aware of the credit crunch, but it is not a creative

crunch - not at the house of Dior, anyway says Mr. Galliano.

On the other side of the Atlantic, Marc Jacobs, known for

his lavish after-parties, also held a press-exclusive show as

well as called off his after-party extravagances. Moreover,

the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) held a

round table on the subject of whether big opulent fashion

shows were still relevant in this day and age. Furthermore,

Grace Coddington, American Vogues art director, recently

mused nostalgically about fashions unhollywood past,

reflecting on how these two worlds never dreamt of colliding.

Fashion Week

To downsize or to supersize ?

Prsentations des collections - Automne-Hiver 2010-2011

Fall/Winter 2010-2011 collections shown

!"#!"#$!%&%$$#!"#$!Photos-Dior@S

ophieCarre

Tendance intimiste ou

EN G L I SH

!"#$%&'()*+,,,-. %./.0/%1,,,.02-3


12/13

32

COULISSES/BACKSTAGE

1 - Anna Wintour

2 - Anouk Lepre

3 - Bernard Arnault - Charlize Theron

4 - Rhianna

5 - Emma Watson - Gwyneth Paltrow

6 - Dfil Chanel SS10, Grand Palais

7 - Bria Valente - Prince

8 - Mary Kate Olsen

9 - Victoria Beckham - Agyness Deyn

1

2 3 4

5

8 9

6

7Photos@D

R

!"#$%&'()*+,,,-. %/0/.0%1,,,/.2-3

33

Nevertheless, isnt fashion a way for people to

indulge and escape? Alber Elbaz at Lanvin certainly

thinks so: "Now, everybody said, Lets do a small

show. [] If you invite only the [press], we lose the

dream. This is the time to invite the people who

dream." If the recession means tight spending for

some, it could also harvest new grand ideas for

others. Houses like Chanel are indeed proof of

the latter, having cut back neither on their guest

list nor on the extravagance of the event. The

Kaiser himself testifies that [at Chanel] we have no

budget, we do what we want and throwing money

out the window brings money back in through the

front door. The bottom line is that I don't deal with

the bottom line. The luxury in my life is I never have

to think about it." The Resort 2010 presentation

was a clear manifestation of that statement, having

been set on none other than a beach in Venice in

front of a meager 350 witnesses. Not bad, seeing

as the resort season is usually revealed without

much noise and while were at it, without any

guests either. Being in the midst of an era in which

a domino effect is occurring amongst luxury houses

filing for bankruptcy protection, designers have to

find a way to rekindle the love for fashion among

their customers and stay within the limits of good

taste by pondering what it is modern women really

require. Perhaps those needs reflect the desire to

be completely taken by an amazing production set

by their favorite brand as well as purchasing clothing

that will inevitably fit her lifestyle. It is certainly more

important now than it ever has been to keep the

dream alive, however that thought straddles a reality

that forces an unavoidable newfound awareness.

But if our dreams go down along with our savings,

what will remain? Must our little escapisms eclipse

all pleasure, or will the world of fashion be able to

proceed in its wonderful representations of beauty?

Although Elbaz point of view is quite charming, it

should nonetheless raise the question on the future

of fashion shows. Indeed, houses will necessarily

need to reevaluate their priorities, the evolution of

todays market and of course, their role in this entire

affair

Mais la rflexion, lunivers de la mode nest-il

pas fait pour les gens qui osent rver un peu ?

Alber Elbaz chez Lanvin y croit certainement :

Maintenant tout le monde dit quon doit faire

des petits dfils intimes [] Si on ninvite que

la presse, on perd le rve. Cest justement le

moment dinviter les rveurs. Si la rcession

peut signifier le resserrement chez les uns, chez

les autres elle peut faire natre de nouvelles

ides qui serviront la contrer. Les maisons

comme Chanel en sont la preuve, nayant coup

ni leur liste dinvits, ni lextravagance de leurs

dfils. Le Kaiser lui-mme atteste que [chez

Chanel] nous n'avons pas de budget impos et

nous faisons ce que nous voulons. Dhabitude,

largent que nous jetons par les fentres nousrevient par la grande porte. Je ne m'occupe

pas des rsultats chiffrs. Mon luxe, cest que

dans ma vie, je nai pas besoin de penser

largent . En effet, la collection Resort 2010,

une saison habituellement rserve aux

prsentations sans invits et sans esbrouffe, a

t dvoile... sur une plage de Venise, devant

quelque 350 tmoins. Au cur dune poque

o les maisons de luxe font faillite en suivant

leffet domino, les crateurs doivent faire natre

chez leurs clientes un nouvel enivrement pour

la mode et uvrer dans les limites du bon got.

Ils doivent rflchir ce que la femme moderne

exige : tre transporte par une mise en scne

imagine par ses marques favorites et se vtir

selon son mode de vie. Certes, limportance

du rve est plus forte que jamais, mais celui-ci

tlscope une ralit qui rpercute une prise

de conscience invitable. Tout de mme, si nos

rves sombrent avec nos conomies, que nous

restera-t-il ? Faut-il aussi que nos chappatoires

occultent tout plaisir, ou le monde de la mode

peut-il poursuivre son merveilleux idal de

beaut ? Lavis de M. Elbaz est assurment

charmant... Reste quil serait judicieux de

sinterroger sur lavenir des dfils de mode,

car les maisons devront ncessairement se

pencher sur lvolution du march et sur leur

rle dans toute cette affaire

Chez Chanel,nous n'avons

pas de budgetimposet nousfaisons ce quenous voulons

Dhabitude,largentque

nous jetonspar les fentres

nous revient parla grande porte.

K.L

At Chanel we have no budget , we do

what we want and throwing money

out the window brings money back in

through the f ront door.

COULISSES/BACKSTAGE

SuperSizeShow ?

E

!"#$%&'()*+,,,-- %./.0/%1,,,.02-3


13/13

50

Cet hiver, focus sur les dtails ! Le dressing masculin ne sen tient plus quaux seuls vestons bien

coups et aux chaussures bien cires, lhomme moderne prend soin de se doter daccessoires

rflchis afin de complter sa tenue. lallure proprement distingue, gracieuset dun cachemire

au cou, dun sac lpaule ou dun portefeuille styl, cest votre tour de vous combler. Imagins

particulirement pour le gentleman averti, les nouveaux accessoires modes sont conus avec

authentique virilit. Un luxe absolument ncessaire pour un style de vie tout fait contemporain.

Zoom inon details this winter! Menswear is no longer exclusive to sharp blazers and nicely

polished shoes, seeing as the modern man goes the extra mile by doting some well thought

out accessories to complete his look. Be prepared for a seriously distinguished allure thanks to a

cashmere scarf thrown around your neck, a great bag flung onto your shoulder, or a wonderfully

styled wallet. Dreamed up especially for the well-informed gentleman, these new accessories have

been drafted with authentic masculinity. They will prove to be an absolutely necessary luxury for a

completely contemporary lifestyle.

E N G LI S H

MODE/FASHION

Souliers Fetish

Accessoires

La chaussure cette saison est limage du bon genre,

imposant lhomme qui la porte une

prsence des plus magistrales. Les

formes sont classiques, les silhouettes

raffines, les matires nobles et les

teintes rsonnent dun luxe lmentaire

mais cependant surprenant avec le prune glac chez Corthay, et une mention spciale pour les souliers grisde Santoni. Saccordant autant votre plus coquet complet qu vos tenues plus dcontractes, les souliers

lhonneur nont rien dordinaire. Ils soigneront votre dmarche, allouant un style des plus fins une lgance imprgne.

Les ttes tourneront sur votre passage, tombeur !

This season, footwear reflects sophisticated flair, duly conveying to its wearer an imposing presence.

Shapes are classic, silhouettes are refined, materials are regal and shades resonate with luxurious sensibility,

with unexpected glazed prunes at Corthay or patent burgundies and a special mention to the greys

at Santoni. Far from the being common, this winters shoe is sure to look as chic

paired with your most well cut suit as with your laid-back weekend

attire. No doubt they will polish your trot, granting finesse

to a rooted elegance. Youll be making heads turn,

heartbreaker!

La chaussure cette saison est l image du bon genre,

VAN LAACK

HERMS

PAUL SMITH

HUGO BOSS

LOEWE

PIERRE CORTHAY

J-B RAUTUREAU

SANTONI

E

t

Ermenegildo Zegna

!"#$%&'()*+,,,&% %-.-/.%0,,,-/12%

my pages in paris select magazine's fall 2009 issue

Documents