1. April/May 2012 Travel Light, Travel Far 10 sertDe ps! Wild Africa Remote jungles, canyons Tri um,adi R acama W At and bizarre stone forests ra, Saha more...and Sri Lanka Serendipity on the Isle of Serendib Tanzania Africas Big Five in photos Mongolia Living it up in a yurtp60Uruguay Colonial towns, dramatic beaches and gaucho culture our 10-page guide to the Pearl of South America+ Kyrgyzstan | Leatherback Trail in Gabon | Gorillas of Uganda

2. April/May 2012Travel Light, Travel Far10ert Desps!Wild AfricaRemote jungles, canyonsTri New Journey, New Life.i Rum,Wad Atacamaand bizarre stone forestsra,Saha more... andSri Lanka Since the launch of our magazine, we have received a tremendous amount of positive feedback fromSerendipity on the Isle of Serendibreaders and friends in the travel industry. Our first issue alone has received over two million views!Tanzania We cannot thank you enough for your support - without you, we wouldnt be doing what we loveAfricas Big Five in photosMongolia most. Stick around, weve got plenty more to share in upcoming issues.Living it up in a yurtUruguayMeanwhile, weve worked hard to compile this second issue while on the road. Were now in theColonial towns, dramatic beaches and gaucho cultureour 10-page guide to the Pearl of South AmericaPhilippines, a month into our journey around Asia. Although traveling and working on the magazine + Kyrgyzstan | Leatherback Trail in Gabon | Gorillas of Uganda at the same time has been quite a challenge, we are loving this new location-independent lifestyle: our On the Cover African Sunset new office is a bamboo hut on the beach, with the lapping waves and gentle (Galyna Andrushko - fotolia)breeze as our background soundtrack. WildJunket Magazine is aYoull be seeing alot more on Asia in the upcoming issues, but in this bi-monthly digital travel magazineedition, our focus is on Africa - with a cover feature from our recent trip to with a focus on outdoor adventuresMadagascar (p20), a photo essay of wildlife in Tanzania (p60), a story on and sustainable travel. Our mission gorilla tracking in Uganda (p80) and dispatches from Gabon (p40). is to inspire readers to travel light and travel far. Weve also giving away free subscriptions to Inca Rally participants as well as a one-week car rental to a lucky reader (details on p89). Creative Director Alberto Molero Editor-in-Chief Nellie HuangAs always, we want to interact and socialize with you, our readers. If you have Contributing Editor Candace Rardonphotos, comments or tips to share, get in touch - wed love to hear from you! Gear Editor Lenore Greiner Editorial Intern Allison CarltonNellie Huang GET IN TOUCH Editor-in-Chief & PublisherContributors Enquiries contact@wildjunket.com Editorial editor@wildjunket.com Advertising sales@wildjunket.com Interested in contributing? Refer to our website for details. Web www.wildjunket.com WildJunket Ltd, 2012. Published by WildJunket Ltd, 163 Jalan Loyang Besar, Singapore 503413. All rights are reserved. Reproduction in any matter is strictly prohibited without the approval of the publishers. The views expressed in articles are those of the writers, and not necessarily of the publishers.Anya OskolkovaPeter West CareyAllison CarltonBorn and raised in Russia, Anya Peter West Carey is a professionalOur editorial intern, Allison Carlton is aOskolkova took her first trip abroad at photographer currently leading photoprofessional journalist with a passion forthe age of 7 and has been wandering tours to Bhutan, Nepal and India. adventure travel. She currently works asthe world since. She shares her stories He also hosts photography workshops Assistant Editor at True West Magazine,on The Compulsive Travelers blog.in the USA. Read about him on the and blogs at the Traveling Bard. ForIn our Travel Guide section, she writes Carey Adventures. See his photo essay each issue, she writes the Calendar (p58) about Uruguay (p98).of wildlife in Tanzania on p60. and Trip Ideas (p16) pieces. Summer Special! Philippines ColombiaFor all your Madagascar travel arrangements. A small hands-on company based in Madagascar; 20+ Cook Islandsyears experience specializing in custom tailored itineraries for individuals, families and small groups. TurkeyUnique alternatives to standard package tours with personalized service and excellent naturalist guides. Belize GeorgiaSherry OttLenore GreinerAndrea Wren Multi-Activity Programs Avenue of the Baobabs Filming & Research support Sherry Ott is a refugee from corporateLenore Greiner is WildJunkets in-Andrea Wren is an experienced Extensive Island Tours Tsiribihina, Manambolo & HoneymoonsMoroccoIT who is now a traveler, blogger,and photographer.Shes co-founderhouse travel gear editor (p114). Sheblogs at TravelGearForWomen,freelance journalist, travel writer andblogger based in the UK. She writes Tsingy de Bemaraha Mangoky Rivers Student GAP programs10 Diving TripsofMeet, Plan, Go!, a national eventoffering career break inspiration.Shehelping women travel brilliantly. Shealso writes for Delta Airlines Sky, Sanfor the Guardian, Wanderlust, andThe Independent. Andrea blogs atalso runs the travel blog Ottsworld.Francisco Chronicle, and HealingButterflyist. In this issue, she brings us+(261) 2095 523 47 +(261) 3247 326 70info@remoterivers.com www.remoterivers.com On sale 14 May 2012 See her photos of Sri Lanka on p48. Retreats and Spas.to Uganda (p80). 3. From the RoadRegulars Insider 32 | Under the Radar: Kyrgyzstan 06 | Snapshots Feast on impressive photos from our 58 | Calendar A look at festivals and events happening A country blessed with dramatic landscapes, untouchedreaders around the world.around the world this Apr/May. nature and some of the most hospitable people in the world.16 | Trip Ideas Ten ideas for desert trips - from the Sahara 110 | Stay Jordans stylish hot spring resort reinvents the 40 | Dispatches: Gabon to the Namib Desert. Middle Eastern bath experience. Witness the rare phenomenon of leatherback turtles nesting 112 | Travel Rant How much do stereotypes speak the114 | Gear We recommend a list of travel gear and on tthe West African coast.truth? Mike Sowden muses, and rants, about busting electronics perfect for hiking this spring. 72 | Just Back: Inner Mongolia prejudices. Live like nomads in Chinas secret province, Inner Mongolia. 113 | Travel Thoughts Our columnist Candace RardonWIN 90 | Feast: South Koreaponders about the concept of authentic travel. We conquer an army of street foods in Seoul to hunt down 116 | Sketches Darbur Square, Kathmandu, in watercolors. ! the best - and the most exotic. aOne-W Caree SeeRent k pag ale89 Inner Mongolia, China p72 80 Uganda Seoul, South Korea p90Destination Features18 | MadagascarExplore the remote jungles, canyons andbizarre stone forests of the Great Red Island.Kyrgyzstan p3248 | Sri LankaAfter decades of civil war, we head back to 98 Uruguayfind renewed peace on the isle of Serendib.Tanzania p6060 | TanzaniaA photo essay of Africas Big Five on the 48 Sri Lankasavannahs of Serengeti.80 | UgandaHead into the wilderness of Uganda andcome face to face with the famous gorillas.98 | Travel Guide: UruguayWander through the colonial towns,windwept beaches and Gaucho landswith our comprehensive travel guide onUruguay. Madagascar18 4. Lemaire Channel, Antarctica Imagine being the only person for thousands of miles. No lights, no noise, no airplanes, no wifi. Just you, your travel mates and several thousand penguins. After sailing down the Antarctic Peninsula, heading into the Lemaire Channel, it became apparent just how small we are in this vast world. The Lemaire Channel is also known as The KodakGap because of the stunning mountains, glaciers, and bright blue icebergssurrounding the narrow passageway its almost impossible to take a bad photo.What made this morning particularly special though was how crystalclear it was outside (the mountain tops are usually veiled in clouds).- Meghan PalmerSend us your photos and the stories behind them to editor@wildjunket.com6 | WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 7 5. Sacred Valley, Peru It was my first time in South America, and this visit to the Sacred Valley was one of the most defining moments of the trip. The Sacred Valley lies within the Andean mountain range, thousands of feet above sea level. It was easy to see just how skillful and disciplined the Incas were: agricultural terraces were etched so perfectly in the hills that they can still be used hundreds of years later. Buildings that were constructed with stones painstakingly dragged over long distances from neighbouring mountains, still stand, long after the hands that laid them had gone. - Alphis Tay8 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 9 6. Kalahari, South Africa Near South Africas northern border with Namibia is an amazing research center for meerkats. Literally dozens of clans of meerkats live here as part of an Earthwatch volunteer project. This is where the hit series Meerkat Manor was filmed; a soap opera documentary that followed the lives of a meerkat clan over the course of three seasons and two movies. I was fortunate enough to join an Earthwatch volunteer team last year and spend a few weeks with these charming little creatures. Needless to say, the overall docile nature of these animals gave me ample opportunity to take plenty of beautiful photographs. This is one of my favorites and shows three meerkats in a typically vigilant stance. Dale is a multi-award winning photographer based in South Africa. To see more of his pictures visitwww.geckoeye.com - Dale Morris10 | WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 11 7. Grand Canyon, Arizona The moment I arrived at the GrandCanyon National Park in Arizona, I was immediately taken back by this stunning geological display. My fear of heights was quickly overcome by a sense of amazement as I found myself surrounded by billions of years of history, compressed into giant gorges. Just before the park guides gestured for me to step away from the edge of the canyon, I snapped this picture of the Colorado River below, still bewildered at the powerful wonderful of Mother Nature. - Tracy Zhang12 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 13 8. Negev Desert, Israel Israel was one of the most surprising countries for me as a world traveler. Not only does the country offer unparalleled history and culture, it also features dramatic landscape, particularly attractive for desert-lovers like myself. In December 2007, on our way from Masada to the Red Sea (Eilat), we had the chance to drive through parts of the extensive Negev Desert. By sunset, we stopped at the north entrance of the Ramon Nature Reserve to visit the famous Makhtesh Ramon. Even though it looks like a meteor crater, it is actually a geological formation unique to the Negev desert. Unfortunately, we could only stay for an hour or so, but it was enough to fall in love with the view and its magnificent surrounding. Taking this picture was an easy task, I just had to click and nature did the rest!. - Mirella Matthiesen14 | WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 15 9. Trip Ideas10 Desert Experiences54WD Adventures in the Outback, Australia 7Learn the history behind thedesert, Egypt 1Trek through the Valley ofthe Moon, Chile Get a balance of the desert and sea on this6Celebrate the Festival of the Desert, Mali Experience one of the most extraordinaryGo back in time with the Nile Valley and For adventurists, the Atacama Desert four-day Monkey Mia, Kalbarri and Pinnaclesannual music events with this Festival of the Western Desert tour offered by World 7 Day Trek offered by Cascadatrip offered by Adventure Tours that takes Desert tour offered by Kumuka. The journeyExpeditions. Visit the legendary Giza Expediciones offers the unique chanceyou from the coast to the desert of Westernbrings you through three countries: Ghana,Pyramids, along with the Roman hot springs to trek and explore the unworldlyAustralia. Go sand boarding in Nambung Burkina Faso and Mali. Explore West Af- and stop at ancient temples and tombs that landscapes of Atacama Desert. Fromricas largest market, sail the Niger River andNational Park, where youll wander through once belonged to the ancient pharaohs while sunsets to sunrises, youll get to seestay with the Tuareg people after a camelthe mysterious Pinnacle Desert, before cruising the majestic Nile River to Cairo. the beauty of the desert while trekking ride through the Sahara. The tours main through impressive rock formations ofabseiling down Murchison Gorge in Kalbarri highlight is the three-day Festival of theThe highlight of the tour is the desert: get the Cordillera de la Sal, up the cacti-NP. Then trade the sand for surf at Shark Bay andDesert that includes art expos, camel rides lost amidst the bizarre limestone formations studded slopes of Licancabur Volcano,swim with the famous local dolphins of Monkeyand games. Note: there is a current travelof White Desert, climb the rose-red cliffs in while visiting historical places like theMia. This trip truly gives you a diverse experiencewarning against Northern Mali; check FCODakhla Oasis and marvel at the green island of Fortress of Quitor and indigenousalong WAs Coral Coast.for current safety advice.Kharga Oasis in the ocean of sand. villages.Tour operator: Adventure Tours Tour operator: Kumuka Tour operator: World Expeditions Tour operator: Cascada Departures:twice a week year-roundDepartures: January Departures: September 2012 to April 2013 Departures: year-round Duration:4 days Duration: 20 days Duration: 14 days Duration: 7 days Cost: US$685 (exc. flights)Cost: US$4,290.00 (exc. flights)Cost: from US$2,290 Cost: from US$2,190 (exc. flights)2 Wander through the worldsoldest desert, Namibia 4Camp in yurts in Gobis Desert,Mongolia8 Stargaze in the Sahara,Morocco10Live like a Bedouin, JordanWildlife and nature are the main attractions3 Desert romance in the Thar,IndiaOn this TransIndus private tour, youll have Dive deep into the heart of Mongolia on thisThe Moroccan Sahara Escape tour offered by9From the desert to the coast, OmanUndiscovered Destinations From the DesertThe Lawrence of Arabias Adventures touron this Dunes, Deltas and Falls tour offeredthe opportunity to truly develop a personalDiscover the Gobi Desert trip with On The GoSpecialist Morocco takes you on an excitingto the Coast tour is a short seven-day trip organized by Explore is an action-packedby G Adventures. This 21-day camping trip connection with the desert as you spendTours. This one-of-a-kind tour allows you tojourney on a 4x4 deep into the mysticalpacked full of local culture and history. Admirejourney thats excellent for families andstarts from Livingstone, Zambia, bringing two weeks traversing through the Tharexperience the Gobi Desert, the second largest the architecture in the capital city of Muscatadventurous couples. Youll get to explore Sahara Desert.Visit the UNESCO Worldyou through Botswana and Namibia to Cape desert in the world - through camel rides, train the legendary highlights of Jordan includingin Rajasthan, India. The Desert RomanceHeritage site Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou,before heading through the desert to meet theTown, South Africa. Not only will you see thejourneys and history lessons. By incorporating the lost city of Petra, Keraks Crusader castleitinerary leads you on camel safaris through before heading into the desert on camelbackgreen turtles in the sanctuary Ras al Hadd.Big Five from an overland truck, youll get to visits to the Natural History Museum, Gandan and the Dead Sea. Follow the footsteps ofthe sand dunes of Osian, jeep tours around monastery and Migjid Janraisag temple, youllDrive through the red and white dunes ofpaddle through the Okavango Delta, wonderand sleeping under the stars by night. YoullLawrence of Arabia, camping under theRawla Narlai, boat rides on the Chambaihave a well-rounded tour of the Gobi in just Wahiba Sands before visiting the 17th centuryat the magnitude of Victoria Falls, and most also head up to the Atlas mountains to stars in the Wadi Rum desert and learningRiver as well as visits to desert towns, Jaineight days. Highlights of the trip include Jabrin Castle and the Jebel Akdhar fort. Theimportantly, catch sunrise on the rose-red hike in the Toubkal National Park before about traditional life from local Bedouins.temples and havelis - all these in the comfort yurt camping, visits to the flaming cliffs oftrip culminates with a hike in Jebel Shams, thesand dunes and visit the eerie Dead Vlei in thespending a night in a Berber village.Finally cool off from the heat in the clearof heritage hotels and historical mansions.Bayanzag and climbing the dunes of Moltsog Grand Canyon of Oman.worlds oldest desert.blue waters and coral reefs of the Red Sea.Tour operator: TransindusEls.Tour operator: Specialist MoroccoTour operator: G Adventures Tour operator: Undiscovered DestinationsTour operator: ExploreDepartures: mid-October to mid-March Tour operator: On The Go ToursDepartures: from September to JuneDepartures: year-roundDepartures: March and October Departures: monthly year-roundDuration: 16 daysDepartures: year-roundDuration: 5 daysDuration: 21 days Duration: 7 daysDuration: 9 days Duration: 8 daysCost: from US$639 (exc. flights)Cost: from US$5,550 (inc. flights from UK)Cost: US$1,780 (exc. flights) Cost: US$1,180 (exc. flights)Cost: from US$2,199 (exc. flights) Cost:from US$$5,468 (exc. flights)16 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 17 10. The Lost IslandFrom endemic wildlife to bizarre stone forests and unexploredbeaches, remote Madagascar may just be one of Africas lastgreat unknowns.Words Nellie Huang | Photographs Alberto Molero18 | WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 19 11. DESTINATION MADAGASCARI t was a tail. A very long, white jungle and also the main draw for theof lemurs, and 6,000 different kinds of and bushy tail. It swung back andfew intrepid travelers who make theirendemic plants, including the bizarre forth in our direction, combingway to this remote isle each year. spiny ocotillo tree and the bottle- the breeze for our presence as weMost people come to Madagascar shaped baobab. slowly approached. Bending our to get a first-hand look at its uniqueSlightly bigger than California,backs and straining our eyes againstwildlife, with the lemur as the headline Madagascar is the fourth largest islandthe sunlight, we watched as the ape-act. But as my photographer husbandin the world. Stretching out overlike animal leapt from tree to tree and I traversed through Madagascar 3,100 miles (5,000 km) of untouchedtowards us. 30 feet, 15 feet, five feet. from lemur-stalked Kirindy to thecoastline, it features extremely diverse It was in full view now all of its stone pinnacles Tsingy de Bemaraha,terrains and habitats: from thewhite furry body, long monkey limbs,and then on to the laid back beach dramatic mountains of the north towebbed feet and olive green eyes. Justtown of Morondava it was quickly pristine spearmint-blue beaches in theinches before us the creature curiously apparent theres far more to see in this south; from green humid rainforests insniffed us out, with not the least bit of largely unexplored part of Africa. the east to the spiny forests of the west.apprehension. Sadly, Madagascars age of innocence A lemur. To be precise, a Verreauxs Biodiversity Hotspot might be short-lived. With problemssifaka, which is also known asMarooned in the vast Indian Ocean, like civil unrest, corruption and over-a dancing lemur for its comical la Grand le is home to an uncommonexploitation of resources plaguinglocomotion on the ground. Thisgroup of animals and plants foundthe country, the United Nationsprimate is one of the most popularnowhere else in the world. Most of Environment Programme (UNEP) haslemurs and definitely the weirdest. these have evolved after the islandsdeclared Madagascars ecosystem one Wild Spirit: Just 15 minutes into the Kirindy separation from the African continentof the most threatened in the world.A furry white VerrauxForest Reserve and wed seen our165 million years ago. Only in Lemurs are facing extinction as someSifaka scrambles up a treefirst lemur. Here on the island ofMadagascar can you find the worldstribes in Madagascar continue to huntOpposite: The terrain inMadagascar, lemurs are the stars of the biggest chameleons, over 70 speciesthem for bush meat while patches of Southern Madagascar20 | WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 21 12. DESTINATION MADAGASCARDESTINATION MADAGASCARTsingy de Bemaraha: Our local parkranger crossing the bridge that spans across the rock pinnacles. less-trodden path.bathing themselves in the brackish national park is protected by ANGAP,Resembling scenes out of a sci-fi movie, the stoneAt the end of the tormenting ride we arrived at the Tsiribihina River, a water, women dressed in colorful lambas crossing the river on theirwhich had a series of wire railings putin place by a team of climbers andforest features jagged limestone pinnacles and major waterway that winds westwards through Madagascar, flowing over a pirogues (dugout canoes). By the time we got to the Bemaraha Mountains,researchers. Guided by a local park ranger, weneedle-sharp peaks, some reaching up to 600 feet. distance of 91 miles (146 km) into the Mozambique Channel. We waited for the last ebb of the sun had faded in the distance, and wispy clouds hung lowclambered up the steel tracks andscrambled from one razor-sharp peak our turn to hop on the car ferry by the above our heads. We were moving at a to another, balancing our way in a less- crowded river banks.slow pace in Madagascar, but for once, than-fancy fashion. Its no wonder thewild forests on the island are slowlyNow that the island is slowly and rum-colored rivers. Villages andMora mora, advised our guidewe didnt mind.Malagasies had aptly named the stonedisappearing due to illegal logging.regaining political stability, there is no people were few and far between. As Heri. Slowly, slowly. In Madagascar,forest tsingy, meaning tip-toe.On the bright side, all is not lost better time to return to the Great Red tarmac gave way to bare earth, it was things move slowly. You never knowSpiky Peaks The trail brought us up steepseveral wildlife conservation groupsIsland.obvious we were seeping deeper into how long we need to wait. It can be The journey was well worth it: our limestone faces, through narrowsuch as World Wide Fund for Nature rural Africa. an hour or a whole day. So be patient,destination, the Tsingy de Bemaraha, winding canyons and sliding down(WWF) are working with Madagascars The Wild West Getting to Bemaraha was an just smile and wait. Our stout, fitwas nothing quite like anything Idslick curves. As I scaled higher towardsANGAP (National Association for the The next morning at the crack of experience of its own. We plunged and and knowledgable guide always had seen. Resembling scenes out of a sci-fithe highest point of the tsingy, I lookedManagement of Protected Areas) to dawn, we made our way to the remotelurched for 60 miles (100 km) overwise words to share he gave us amovie, the stone forest features jaggeddown and my head swirled in 360promote awareness and implement region of the Bemaraha Mountains.four hours on a treacherously bumpy deep glimpse into Madagascar and itslimestone pinnacles and needle-sharp degrees. Luckily for the safety harnessmeasures. Locals are gradually coming They dont call this the wild west for trail flanked by thick, dense foliage.culture.peaks, some reaching up to 600 feetand the guides encouragement, Ito grips with the reality that theirnothing. With few roads connecting Overland travel in Madagascar can beWe spent the afternoon watching (200 meters) in height - a result of made it up to the peak, giddy withwealth is in their wildlife and natural here to the rest of the country, thisbrutal, especially on this part of thevillagers go about their daily livesmillions of years of rainwater lashesexcitement.environment. Tourism is an integral hard-to-reach region is pockmarked island - but somehow the remoteness - men leading theirs herds of zebus and trickling of streams. Now a Below us was a blinding jumble -part to rebuilding the country. with robust baobab trees, red earthand inaccessibility made this feel like a (ox) along the marshy banks, children UNESCO World Heritage Site, thethe chiseled karst stones poked out22 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 23 13. Sunrise at Manambolo: LocalsOnly in Madagascar can you find the worlds biggest chameleons, overglide by on a pirogue.Bottom (left to right): Thousand-70 species of lemurs, and 6,000 different kinds of endemic plants.year-old trees along the Avenuedu Baobab; Scrambling down the jagged pinnacles of the tsingy.into the skies, vying for sunlight withvertiginous cliffs of limestone toppedthe tsingy lay vast, sandy plainspachypodium cacti; lemurs leapt from with karst rock pinnacles and trees. Allpunctuated with tall bottle-shapedone pointed needle to another; while was still except for the dancing lightbaobab trees whose branches soaredthe orange-brown Manambolo River on the water and an odd wheezingsky-high, resembling roots in the air.snaked through lush emerald forestssound among the overhanging foliage.Heri insisted we catch the sunset alongin the distance. It was a vision of aIt could have been a snake or a lemur,Avenue du Baobab, the islands mostprimeval paradise. Most of all, we had but we glided into safety before thefamous road lined with hundred-year-it all to ourselves. creature revealed itself. old baobabs. I, on the other hand, was At 5.30a.m. the next day, we arrived By the time we weaved our wayunsure if I wanted to share the rareat the riverbank to see bats flittingmidway into the gorge, the sun hadsolitude Id found in Madagascar withabout in the pre-dawn haze. The riverfired up the canyon, splashing itsother tourists.would give us a different perspective of rays beyond the canopy of pinnacles. But as soon as we stood in thethe tsingy, Heri said. Why at this hour, I smiled at Heri, thankful for this shadow of the serendipitously alignedI protested. Youll soon find out. spectacular sight - rising early sure was row of baobabs, I fell silent in awe. We hopped onto our pirogue, worth it. Heri was right again this wasa water taxi of some sort in the something. Even in the light of day, theTsiribihina region. As we glided Baobab Nation dirt road had an ethereal atmospheresilently into the Manambolo Gorge, Back out on the muddy road, it wasto it, especially so with the treesthe sandy riverbanks gave way to talla different world again. Beyond silhouettes reflected in the water lily15 Other wildlifewatching spotsRserve Spciale de Lankrana Located in northern Madagascar, this 45,109 acre(18,225 hectare) reserve is a patchwork of ruby-red tsingy,semi-dry forests, caves and subterranean rivers. Its anexcellent place to spot nocturnal sportive lemurs dont besurprised to find them popping their heads out of holes inthe forest.2 Parc National dAndasibe-Mantadia This high-altitude rainforest on the islands east coast isthe best place to see the Indri, the largest lemur species. Youll 4 Parc Nacional de Ranomafana As one of Madagascars most popular parks, Ranomafana is most famous for its green, lusciousalso find eight other species of lemur including the rare grey environment. In the 98,842 acre (40,000 hectare) misty cloudbamboo lemur, as well as Parsons chameleons, Madagascar forest, youll have the chance to see two rare lemur speciesblue pigeons and long-eared owls. Listen out for the weird the golden bamboo lemur and the greater bamboo lemur -howling of the Indri in the early morning. who make their home amidst waterfalls and rolling hills.3 La Rserve Prive dAnjajavy Accessible only by air on the remote northwesterncoast, Anjajavy promises the most prolific collection of 5 Anja ReserveAnja Reserve is the most visited community managed forest and is famed for its dense population of ring-tailedwildlife from chameleons to the Coquerels sifaka and thelemurs. Situated 8 miles (13 km) south of Ambalavao, theelusive Fossa. Cut off from the rest of the isle, this reserve isreserve is easily accessible via the National Route 7. Thetruly untouched and well worth the journey.reserve entrance fees go to the local Malagasy community.24 | WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 25 14. DESTINATION MADAGASCAR DESTINATION MADAGASCAR When asked why Madagascar of all places, he pointed out to the viewExplore OffbeatVillage Life - Manafiafy Southern Madagascar is sprinkled with ahead of us and said, Look at this, how can you not fall in love? secluded offshore islets and steeped inMadagascar tribal traditions. Go whale watching, deep sea fishing or visit a castaway ponds beneath and locals trotting past on their zebu carts. melodious series of Tonga Soa. Welcome. We threw off our backpacks, Baholy. When asked why Madagascar of all places, he pointed out to the viewSandstone Canyons of Isalo island and wander through local At sunset, the dramatic scene tookleft our hiking boots behind andahead of us and said, Look at this,Without the ring-tailed lemurs youd villages. Theres also a whole world of on even more theatrical dimensions: headed straight for the waves.how can you not fall in love?never guess this is Madagascar. Theforest reserves and mangroves excellent as the giant orange yolk sank over the Overlooking the Mozambique Over the next few days we kickedbrown sandstone gorges of Isalo National for nocturnal lemur and bird-watching.canopy of baobabs, the color of the sky Channel, Morondava bakes in a strongback and enjoyed a different side toPark resemble those of the Grand CanyonExperience all of it at the exclusive shimmered and dazzled - changingCaribbean light and its people groove Madagascar. A sunset pirogue rideand they promise superb hiking with aManafiafy Beach and Rainforestto a similar tune. Its wide sandy beach in the nearby mangroves yielded from bright vermillion to gentlerange of trails that vary in difficulty. Two Lodge where you can explore the runs for miles alongside a strip of impressive bird watching opportunities area with a naturalist, relax in your mandarin, and eventually a shade ofboutique lodges near Ranohira provideclapboard houses and beach bars.from the blue-throated kingfishers tofirst-world comforts and cuisine: Relais Baobab Galore in Ifatyluxurious thatched bungalow and enjoy gold. The fascinating transformation Just 164 miles (265 km) from Isalo is from day to night took place in a sheer On the dark blue waters, fishermenegrets and herons; we made friendsde la Reine and Jardin du Roy. Botha true Robinson Crusoe experience. the beach town of Ifaty, famed for itscast nets against the backdrop of with local fishermen on the nearby isleboast European lodge dcor and a lavish(Prices start from US$318 per personmatter of minutes and yet, it stayed baobab reserves more than the beach.per night). coconut palms swaying their frondsof Betania and watched them catchteak wood setting.(Room rates fromdeeply imprinted in my memories.US$105 per night) The coast is excellent for snorkeling like Rastafari dreads. By the white giant tilapias; and on a chirpy Saturday, and diving, especially for sharks. Butshoreline, local women sashay in theirwe wandered through the colorful the nearby Renialia Nature ReserveBeach Bumming colorful lambas with buckets of fresh local market and chatted with friendly is the main attraction - with its Through the dusty dirt roads of the fish on their heads.locals. 1,200-year-old baobabs, bizarre spiny west, we reached the breezy windsIts a view that many would kill toIt was beautiful, but like everywhere forests and resident spiders, scorpions and laid back vibes of Morondava. have as their daily backdrop, and Garyelse in Madagascar, it was the solitude and hedgehogs. To kick back, the lavish After days of hiking, kayaking and waterfront bungalows at Le Paradisier Lemmer is one of the lucky few to callthat struck me most. While the forest-trekking, we felt in need of this home. Having lived and worked in improved political situation might see promise tranquility, comfort and an atmospheric backdrop. (Room rates some relaxation and found it at the several parts of Africa, Gary decided an increase in travelers, until then, this from US$86 per night).beachside lodge, Chez Maggie. to settle in Madagascarand now runswildly remote island remains hidden Upon arrival, we were met by aChez Maggie with his Malagasy wife, and lost in its own world. 126 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 27 15. DESTINATION MADAGASCAR (3-hour journey; return airfares fromTRIP DETAILS US$900). The total journey times areThe author traveled with Remote Riveraround 20 hours from North America andExpeditions Madagascar on a tailor-total return airfare starts from US$2,000.made trip. The six-day trip departs andends in Morondava. Three to six-daycustom programs are available from + Getting around Domestic flights on Airbungalows and a luxurious swimming Madagascar are the most feasible way ofMay to November. Prices start frompool overlooking the stone forest. Room exploring the island, as theyre fast andUS$420 per person, with breakfasts, rates start from 35,000 MGA (US$16) for relativelycheap as compared to renting adinners, transportation (on a 4x4), a single room to 60,000 MGA for doubles car or booking a tour. They range fromaccommodations, park entry fees and (US$28). US$250 to $350 each way. Public transportan English-speaking naturalist guide Madagascars Wildlife: (Clockwise from top left)is neither efficient nor comfortable.Chez Maggie stands out for its cozy,included. International airfare, lunches However, if youre on a budget and havehomely setting and beachfront locationand drinks are at your own expense. time to spare, the taxi-brousse can be an with private bungalows, spacious two- Gentle Spikes: A baby hedgehog curled interesting way to explore the island from up in Renialia Nature Reserve. Curious Eyes: A red-fronted lemur When to goOctober and November is the best a local perspective.story chalets, a swimming pool and thebest restaurant in town. Room rates startfrom 88,000 MGA (US$41). observes us from a tree. time to visit as temperatures are mild and Since certain parts are very remote androads are still accessible. Avoid the rainydesolate, the only way to get around Dancing Lemur: A Verraux Sifaka hangs from a branch. Birds of Paradise: The Paradiseseason (January to March) as there is ahigh risk of cyclones and some roads can sometimes after flying there is to rent a car. In Madagascar, car rental usually Cost of travelThe currency used in Madagascarbe inaccessible due to the rain. In general, comes with a driver hiring without is the Malagasy ariary (MGA). Currently Flycatcher adds color to Kirindy Forest. there is an extreme temperature difference one tends to be more expensive. Car hire the exchange rate is at US$1 to 2,163 Colored Creatures: A Warty Chameleon between the hauts plateaux(centralprices vary according to the duration of MGA. Prices are cheap in Madagascar camouflages on a light brown branch. highlands) and the coast. Summer seesrental and the type of vehicle but generally but tours, private transportation and Carnivore Alert: The ferocious fossa,temperatures rising to a sweltering 104F (range from US$60 for a small car to US$80hotel prices can be costly like in other Madagascars only predator.40C) along the coast while Antananarivo for a 4x4. parts of Africa. Hotel room rates areand the highlands can get as low as very affordable in most parts of the Cobalt Sweetness: A beautiful Malachite Kingfisher in Morondavas mangroves. Locust Pocus: Multi-colored locust in46F (8C) come winter (December toFebruary). W AccommodationDue to the remoteness of certaincountry, ranging from US$18 to US$100.Restaurant prices will also suit mostbudgets, from a simple local dish for 4,300 parts of Madagascar, there are few Isalo. If youre planning to travel in the central accommodation choices except in theMGA (US$2) to a European meal costinghighlands, be sure to bring warm clothesaround 17,000 MGA (US$8). capital. Options in the islands moreregardless of the season as temperatures far-flung corners can range from basicare around 59F (15C) even in thesummer. The coastal areas are generallyhot year round, although it can be nippy at wooden huts to high-end luxury resorts. Sakamanga Hotel, located in the heart ofV PackingWeather can be extreme regardlessof the time of year so bring clothing to fitnight in the winter. Antananarivos old town, features colorful,all seasons. In winter, youll need a fleece eclectic rooms of varying size and price.and a thick winter coat, especially if you! Getting thereA lack of direct flights to Room rates start from 52,000 MGA (US$24).plan to travel in the central highlands.In summer, bring a few layers suchAntananarivo makes it tricky to findsinglets, long-sleeved shirts and a light Kirindy Reserve Bungalows is the onlycheap airfare, especially from the US. Thejacket for the cool nights. Take sunglasses accommodation available in the forestbest way to reach Antananarivo involves and sunscreen, especially in summer. reserve. Although the wooden huts areflying to either Paris or to Johannesburg Binoculars are essential. basic with few facilities, they give you theand taking a connecting flight on to Ivato real experience of sleeping in a forest.International Airport. Air Madagascar andAir France fly three to four times weeklyfrom Paristo Antananarivo (13-hour Room rates start from 37,000 MGA (US$17). M Websites Here are some helpful linksjourney; return airfares from US$1,300). LOlympe du Bemaraha is one of the Madagascar National Tourism BoardAir Madagascar also flies twice weekly most upscale hotels near the TsingyParcs Madagascarfrom Johannesburg to Antananarivode Bemaraha with lavish teak woodLonely Planet Madagascar28 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 29 16. AdvertorialUltimate Madagascar:A River Expedition Along the MangokyRivers, rainforests and highlands: explore theisland of contrasts with Remote River ExpeditionsPhotos by Norman KingIsolated for millions of years incontrasting terrains and habitats: from Featured in the book 1,000 Places Highlights of the tripthe Indian Ocean, Madagascarsthe central highlands to the humid to Visit Before You Die by Patricia 7-day calm water raftingflora and fauna has evolved inrainforests in the east, dry sandstone Schultz, this is a world-class riversuch a unique way that 18th cliffs in the west andbizarre karst Andasibe Rainforest Reserve and camping experience. With expertcentury French explorer Philippeforestsin the north. Kirindy Forest Reserve naturalist guides to lead the way andde Commerson described the islandTo experience all of it in one trip, Avenue of the Baobabs an experienced cook to prepare mealsas "the naturalists promised land. He Remote River Expeditions has specially over an open fire, this expedition is an Scuba-diving in Ifatywrote, "Nature seems to have retreateddesigned a program, Mangoky River, excellent mix of adventure, culture and Hotel Stay in Morondavathere into a private sanctuary whereRainforest & West, which brings you onshe could work on different models a touch of luxury in the wilderness. Expert English-speakingan action-packed adventure across thefrom any she used elsewhere." naturalists/guidescountry.Although much has changed on Float past the worlds largest baobabDates: May 23 - Jun 09, 2012 Maximum 10 peopleMadagascar since the 18th century, it forest, catch magnificent sunsets along Includes all river and campingDuration: 18-Daysremains a true naturalists paradise. the river banks, spot a wide myriadequipmentNo Amazon jungle can beat the of lemurs, birds and bats and go on Cost: $3,340 (exc. flights) 4WD transportationdiversity and uniqueness of species tohikes and nocturnal walks - the Single Supplement: $210be found here. Besides outstandingmulti-activitiy itinerary of this 18-day For more details, check13 & 15-Day Programs also availablewildlife, Madagascar also boastsexpedition will bring you through a Remote River Expeditions.extreme biodiversity - featuring very great variety of ecosystems.30 | WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 31 17. At Home inKyrgyzstanThis Central Asian country has dramatic mountainlandscapes, pristine nature and outstandingtrekking opportunities - but its the people whomake it an experience youll never forget.woRds and photos by NATASHA VON GELDERN32 | WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 33 18. UNDER THE RADAR KYRGYZSTANM ountains, mountains and mountains in almost every direction. Overhanging the peaks, spectacular waterfallscareened onto icy rivers while acresof dark fir forests tumbled down themountainside. As we trekked acrossEastern Kyrgyzstan, a deep valleystretched out before us, running acrosshuge expanses of grasslands. Amidst the roar and fizz of waterrushing over rocks, roars of laughterechoed in the distance - a group ofpeople had gathered by the river banks.For days now we hadnt seen or heardanyone else; yet, out in this remoteprairie, wed stumbled upon a familygathering. Come join us, one of the old ladieswaved and shouted, as my guide Igordecades of political conflicts and For days, we left civilization behind,translated.economic issues yet that was far from wandering through alpine meadows The three-generation family of 20 the Kyrgyzstan I found. brimming with gaudy primula flowers from grey-haired grandparents toThe Kyrgyz were by far the mostand wild irises little wonder why thischubby three-year-old toddlers had generous people Ive ever met and was called the Valley of the Flowers.driven up the trail in their ladas orKyrgyzstans pristine mountains the Once in a while, we would stumbleon horseback, spreading woven rugs wildest Ive seen. This was a country upon horse herds and sheepdogsunder the pine trees by the river, emanating peace and tranquility, with grazing on the grassy hillsides.and joyously feasting and enjoying unexplored backcountry and most of I will take you to parts oftheir time in the outdoors. They wereall, a genuine sense of generosity andKyrgyzstan that few foreigners visit,celebrating their youngest daughtershospitality amongst its people. promised Igor, who led me throughbirthday and insisted we join them.grass-laden walking trails towards a hut in the Arashan Valley. Over the next few hours, I wasLand of PeaksAn enthusiastic localplied with bowl after bowl of chay Overshadowed by China to the east mountaineering group had gatheredtea and mounds of delicious plov, a and Kazakhstan to the north, this here, as with every weekend, usingPersian dish of waxy rice mixed with small and largely overlooked countrythis as a base to explore the valley.a constellation of spices. The family is dwarfed by its neighbors on the mapThe group of amateur mountaineershad dismembered a whole sheep, hung but it certainly packs a punch when itwas made up of local draftsmen andit on a wooden rack and barbequed comes to landscapes.engineers who lived out in the capital.it above a roaring fire; now they wereWith 93 percent of the country They regaled me with local myths andslicing up big chunks of meat and sitting over 3,280 feet (1,000 meters), legends and stories of their personalpiling them up on my plate. Like a Kyrgyzstan is a medley of monster lives.family I never knew existed, they gave peaks, plunging valleys, smoothWe love the mountains and try tome the warmest welcome Kyrgyzstan glaciers, thick deciduous forests and come here whenever we can, sharedstyle. ice-blue lakes yet to be discovered byone of the mountaineers. It was easy trekkers or climbers. to see why theyd chosen this spot asUnknown Territories Over the next week, I explored the their weekly escape. As the sun set, weLandlocked in the middle of Centralsculpted alpine valleys of the Terskeidipped our exhausted bodies in theAsia, the republic of Kyrgyzstan isAlu mountain range on overnight natural hot spring pool to sensationallargely unknown to the outside world treks. Every bend of the trail revealed views of the river valley far below. As From the old Kyrgyz men spotting traditional isolated within gargantuan mountaina peek of the imposing snow-cappednight fell, we bonded over the campfire felt hats to the teenagers dressed in colorfulpeaks. Following the collapse of the mountains and every twist its rolling under star-lit skies a perfect way tocostumes preparing for a parade, its theSoviet Union, Kyrgyzstan experienced prairies and deeply entrenched valleys. end a long day of trekking. By the end people of Kyrgyzstan that strikes me most.34 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 35 19. UNDER THE RADAR KYRGYZSTAN UNDER THE RADAR KYRGYZSTANLeft to right: the Valley of Flowers;granite mountains near Karakol; anomad in the mountains near Kochkor.The Kyrgyz were by far the most generous people Ive everimmaculate boulevards and modernoutdoor cafs. Grey Soviet apartmentmet and Kyrgyzstans pristine mountains the wildest Ive seen. buildings stood alongside Russian-style orthodox churches and dustyof the excursion, I left with new friends up, they would take their herds andunder the dim light. Chyngyzs mother, eateries. Only after weaving my wayand the promise to return someday.move on to the lake, following the Shien-Bibi, stacked my plate sky-highthrough the outdoor markets andsummer grasses.with chunks of tender mutton meatnarrow alleyways in the quieter parts and scoops of plov rice, only to beof town then did I see hints of CentralModern Nomads The family of five lived in a yurt, aconical roofed tent made out of a thin washed down with shots of kymyz, the Asian traits lurking in certain cornersMoving on to the tiny central- highly prized fermented mares milk. of the city.willow frame and topped with a thickKyrgyzstan village of Kochkor, IWhen Marco Polo passed throughBut what I would most rememberlayer of woolen felt. Sunlight pouredsaddled up and headed for the jailoo orthis part of the world in the 13th about Bishkek were the people Ithrough a round opening in the middlesummer mountain pastures. This areacentury he described kymyz "like white met: the old man in an embroideredof the roof, and beneath it stood a potis crammed with valleys and slopes wine, very good to drink." ContraryKyrgyz-hat; the over-enthusiastic we were literally in the midst of the belly stove used for concocting stews taxi driver who volunteered to be myand providing warmth during theto my expectations, it tasted more likeMountains of Heaven, Tian Shan,burnt milk than a divine nectar of the guide for free; and the impromptuwhich makes up almost 80% of thechilly nights.vodka toasts I had on the streets withAs the evening sun slowlygods. But perhaps there was a magicalcountry and stretches across the rest of ingredient in it, for that night I dozed strangers.Central Asia. disappeared into the horizon, we satOn my taxi ride back to the airport,outside under the clear skies sippingoff with the zing of the kymyz still Velvety green hills gave way to steep lingering in my senses.the driver said his house was on theoxidized cliffs, snowy mountainsbowls of chay while an intoxicating way and asked if Id like a bowl of chay.and frozen lakes. The granite greyswirl of smoke and mutton fat filledI politely said no, Save it for your nextpeaks were now blanketed in white,the air. Before dinner, we sat in a roundA Soviet Memoircustomer.randomly dotted with yurts andcircle as the family performed a small To end my trip, I left the mountains He looked up into the rear-viewgrazing horses in the distance. Muslim ritual the amin by passingbehind and headed to its capital city, mirror and met my gaze. Theres Here, I met Chyngyz-Bek and histheir hands over their faces as a gestureBishkek, where nearly a quarter of the always something for our next visitor.family, semi-nomadic Kyrgyz who liveof thanks. countrys 5.5 million people live.I smiled and promised to returnin the jailoo each summer, herdingI followed suit, out of respect, only to At first glance, this former Soviet city someday for his cup of chay Ill betheir flocks of sheep for sustenance. have three-year-old Tasim sniggering appeared to be a blend of European back soon enough, because KyrgyzstanOnce the spring snow melted higherat me, her cheeks round and rosy red and Eastern influences, with wide, truly felt like home. 136 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 37 20. Nomadic Life: Chyngyz-Bek andKyrgyzstans his family with their yurt Shop in one of Asias oldest bazaars in Osh Go back in time and witness one of the oldest bazaars in the world people have been trading in Osh since the 5th century BC. From the trail of trucks, it is clear the Silk Road is not a thing of the past. Shop for handmade artisan or elaborate embroidery; visit the local blacksmith or buy the savory dried apricots to take home. Stay in a yurt at Lake Song-K Herding families come to the exquisite Lake Song-Kl for the vast summer grasslands. When the grass is gone they pack up the yurt and move to greener pastures higher up the valley. For homestay guests, they usually make fresh bread, homemade jam and fresh cream. Hikers will also enjoy the variety of trekking opportunities in the surrounding hills. Trek and climb in the Pamir Alai Valley The magnificent Pamir Alai mountain range runs along the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. Approaching the mountains from the village of Sary Tash through soft green pastureland, youll often find yak herds and nomads. This is serious trekking and mountaineering territory. You are likely to need a trekking company or guide in this region, especially to climb the popular Peak Lenin. Association guesthouses offer B&B homestays in towns and villages across the country from US$8 to US$25 per night. The accommodation is very simple and traditional. The Hotel Holiday Bishkek is aWhen to go The best time to visit is September, A one-month, single-entry tourist visa can be obtained at the airport for US$80 without invitation or sponsorship (the comfortable, conveniently located hotel with a pool and Wi-Fi. Room rates start although spring (from mid-April to mid- most liberal tourist visa policy in Central from US$140. June) also sees pleasant temperatures. It is sunny most parts of the year butAsia). The Manas International AirportYak Tours Guesthouse in Karakol offers temperatures vary from one part of theis a 25-minute taxi ride to Bishkeks citybudget accommodation in an old colonial country to the next: around Bishkek and center. house with basic facilities but good in the Fergana Valley, summer (July tohome-cooked meals and a garden. It also August) can see temperatures over 86F (30C). In winter, heavy snow blocks the + Getting around There are some mini-bus routes organises trekking guides and tours. Room rates start from US$10. high mountain passes, although low levelbut the shared taxi system is the most popular transport mode as it is cheap and Its advisable to book yurt stays and other camping and trekking are possible fromactivities through the Community Based early June. the vehicles are comfortable. Head to the town bazaar in the morning, find a taxi,Tourism (CBT) scheme. They take a small percentage for administration costs and ! Getting thereThere are no direct flights from and wait until the other seats are taken before setting off. the rest of the money goes to the local people; in other words, your hosts. There North America to Bishkek so the best option is to fly via Europe. Flights to Bishkek from London Heathrow with BMI W Accommodation Tourist infrastructure in are CBT offices in many towns where you can book homestays. Kyrgyzstan is in its infancy. There is a operate three times per week (return fares from US$800). Aeroflot flies from Moscow Sheremetyevo at least once per day to small range of hotels in central Bishkek, mainly geared to business travelers. M WebsitesHere are some helpful links Bishkek (return fares from US$470). Hotel accommodation outside the Lonely Planet Kyrgyzstan Turkish Airlines flies daily from Istanbulcapital is limited to the larger townsGuide to Central Asia Land of Peaks: Dramatic but Community Based Tourism (CBT) to Bishkek (return fares from US$750).Oriental Express Central Asia landscapes of Kyrgyzstan enthrall38 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 39 21. Chasing theLeatherback TrailOnce a year hundreds of endangered Leatherback turtles descendonto a remote beach along the coast of West Africa. Its a sight unlikeany in the world that will impress even the most hardened traveler.WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHs by LINDA SCHONKNECHT40 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 41 22. DISPATCH GABONCoastal Life: A motherprepares fish for dinner in thevillage of MayumbaUnder the dim lights of early dawn, wewithnessed one of the most moving wildlifephenomenon on our planet.S hhh! Look! One unborn child this was clearly anparks created to protect over 11% of of the eco-guards important ritual to her.the countrys land and waters. Thanks whispered. OurLeatherback sea turtles are one ofto this strategic move, Gabons natural eyes raced over the rarest species of turtles, with their heritage is one of the most intact in the sands beneath existence dating back to over 200 Africa. With its luscious green junglesour feet, searching for a hint of themillion years ago. They spend most of and prolific wildlife, Gabon has earnedanimal that wed walked over 10kmtheir lives out in the vast blue expansefor itself the title of Africas Eden.overnight to see. As the sun coyly of the Atlantic Ocean, except for one Driving up the western Africanpoked out from behind the clouds,period in the year where the breeding coastline in our trusty 4x4, myour vision cleared. There she was thefemales head towards shore to begin videographer husband and I hadleatherback turtle, a behemoth of aone of the most astonishing natural lumbered and bounced throughcreature, heaving herself out of the marvels - and Gabon in West Africa is Namibia, Angola, and the Democraticchilly waters and onto the beach.one of the best places to witness it. Republic of Congo to get to the turtleUnder the dim lights of early dawn,In 2002, Mayumba National Parkcamp of Nyafessa in Mayumba inwe witnessed one of the most movingwas created to protect Africas mostsearch of the nesting leatherbacks. Thewildlife phenomenon on our planet. important nesting beach. Stretching only question that remained: would weAs the leatherback crawled slowly onto over 348 square miles (900 square catch a glimpse?the golden sand, she gently slapped herkilometers) of sea and coastal forestspair of front flippers, marking out thein Southern Gabon, this park is homebeginnings of her nest site. to arguably the worlds greatest densityRumble in the JungleA few feet away from the lapping of nesting leatherback turtles. MoreWe had started our journey into thewaves, she started scooping outthan 30,000 turtles nest on Mayumbas small coastal village of Mayumbamounds of sand with her back flippers, beaches between September and April despite a pre-warning that the routecreating a bowl of a nest for hereach year.there was nearly impassable aseggs. The leatherback took her time, Mayumba is the largest marine parkmarine conservation enthusiasts, wemeticulously finding a home for herin the country one of 13 national were eager to chase the leatherback42 | WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 43 23. DISPATCH GABON turtles trail and wouldnt be easilynothing more than a large tent. A Today, it is facing the danger of deterred. Heading away from thetarpaulin had been rooted into the extinction the major cause for its border of Congo and into Gabon, we ground by poles, sheltering a smalldecline: human activities. Its eggs are made our way along an unexplored bush kitchen and a few one-man still being collected for food in many dirt road that would lead us into thetents for researchers and eco-guards parts of the world. Asian exploitation heartland of Southern Gabon and onto to escape from the mosquitoes in the of turtle nests has been cited as the the remote coastline.night and the intense heat during themost significant factor for the speciesA few hours of bumping andday. global population decline. grinding later, the glorified goat track Sara and a few local eco-guards It is people like Sara that enable us disappeared into a quagmire of treewere spending three months at a time to still have the opportunity to witness trunks and mushy bog. Along the way, camped out with supplies and turtle even our 4x4 designed to withstandnatures wonders. With an undyingtagging devices, waking up in theScenes from Mayumba: fromthe toughest of terrain and weather passion for wildlife ecology, themiddle of the night to walk the beachesa village shed (middle right)conditions surrendered and wasconservation scientist has devoted herduring peak turtle nesting season to a baby turtle crawling outstuck within thick layers of mud and in the hopes of collecting data andlife to conducting research on marineof its nest (bottom left)earth. satellite tagging the turtles. mammals and protecting whats left ofFor over 11 and a half hours, weThat night all of our effort was our environment. dug, pushed and hauled. With a dense rewarded. Waking up at 2 am we setNot every night is the same here. forest canopy enveloping us in every off for the shoreline, armed withSome nights we have to dodge tropical direction, we were immersed in a torches and clipboards. For the eco- thunderstorms and fight heavy rain natural sauna the sweltering heatguards, this was simply a nightly ritual with not a single turtle in sight for rising up to 95F (35C) and the 100% but for us, it was a peek into a veryhours, Sara told us. humidity making it hard to breathe.different world.Walking off into the dark can beCaught on a dirt road in the middle In the thick of the night the humidity incredibly intimidating, especiallyIn the peak mating season, turtles sometimesarrive in their hundreds, one after another, crawling flipper over flipper... of nowhere, we fought hard to rescue had begun to ease off slightly and our when you are a good days drive away our vehicle. Finally at 3am, in one hard perspiration saturated bodies hadfrom the nearest village. Sometimes, heave, the car was released from the begun to cool down. After walkingwe even see silver eyes blinking out muddy muck with a satisfying plop. 10km towards the early hours of dawn,from the jungle, staring at us. As if on cue, the heavens opened upwe finally spotted the giant leatherback and we were drenched by a tropicalBut there are days like these thatin the dim light and settled into themake all traces of blistered feet and thunderstorm.cooling sand to watch the spiritual bug bitten skin worth it. In the peakritual of her nesting. mating season, turtles sometimes Finding Dinosaurs With her long front flippers and arrive in their hundreds, one after the Rolling into Niyafessa camp beaten massive teardrop-shaped carapace, other, crawling flipper over flipper up, we instantly knew the grueling the turtle was estimated to be aroundfive feet (1.6 meters) long, weighingonto the soft sand to prepare their journey here was well worth it. Youreover 1,100 pounds (500 kg). Of the 222 nesting sites. Its a rare sight and I just in time! scientist Sara Maxwell explained, Last night we found a fewspecies of living turtles, the leatherback count my blessings each time I see it. tracks and when we go on our walkturtle is not only the largest species Gabon is truly the kind of place that tonight, we might have a good chance but also one of the oldest: bones from can bring you back down to earth, of seeing some. the turtle that have been found date especially when you get a bit too big for The small turtle monitoring camp back as far as 100 million years with itsyour traveling boots. It can surprise you, of Niyafessa, set up by the Wildlife ancestors having survived the age of shock you, and remind you that there is Conservation Society (WCS), wasthe dinosaurs. no other place quite like it on earth. 144 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 45 24. Bring WildJunket Magazine wherever you gowith our iOS and Android editions!95F (26-35 C) year round.The mostcomfortable time to travel is duringthe dry season from June to August,as there is slightly less rain and lesschance of roads being blocked. June toSeptember is the best if you are planning! Getting there Sadly there is a lack of direct Tchibanga and catch a 5-hour bush taxi to Mayumba. A one-way trip is about CFA 7,000 (US$14) for a cabin and CFAto go on Safari. If you are coming forwhale-watching, arrive in July and earlyflights to Gabon, especially from the US. September.The best way to reach Libreville is via6,000 (US$12) in the back of the truck.Frankfurt and Paris. Lufthansa flies fivetimes per week direct from Frankfurt The route is about 67 miles (108 km) and can be very bumpy, but incredibly beautiful. If you are staying the nightW AccommodationSleeping in Mayumba is veryto Libreville (7-hour journey; return basic, dont come expecting too muchairfares from US$1,500). Royal Air in Gamba, try the Hotel of the Conseil and bring along a mosquito net. Try theMaroc flies daily from Paris to Libreville Departemental and in Tchibanga the Hotel de lOcean at the far southern endvia Casablanca (10-hour journey; returnHotel Modibotie. of town - room rates start from CFAairfares from US$1,600).20,000 CFA (US$40) per night. A goodVisas are obtainable on arrival, but can % Driving It is about 434 miles (700 km)budget option in the center of town isthe Hotel de Bac - room rates are CFAonly be purchased in dollars. For thefrom Libreville to Mayumba and the12,500 (US$25). Outside of town try themost updated information on air travel route can take anything from 20 hoursbeachfront Hotel Mbidia Koukou, bestin Gabon use http://www.adlgabon.com.to a couple of days depending on roadknown for its laidback vibes. Rooms rates conditions. A 4X4 vehicle is a must.+ Getting around Mayumba is in the far South so Renting a 4WD is difficult without also renting a driver. Europcar, Hertz andare CFA15,000 (US$30)per night.your only two options are flying down orrenting a car and driving: Avis have offices in Libreville. Check points are common in Gabon and drivers Best time to seeLeatherback turtles are asked to show passports, driving November and April are the best times Flying! Domestic air carriers, Air Service license or vehicle registration documents. to see the turtles nesting (hot and humidbut worth it), and January, February andand La Nationale, service Mayumba,but be aware that flights are sometimes When to go Gabon is on the equator and hasMarch towards the end of the season isthe best to see the hatchlings. A greatcancelled due to repairs or bad weather. a very humid, tropical climate where source of information is the MayumbaOtherwise you can fly to Gamba oraverage temperature ranges from 79 toNational Park website.46 | WildJunket April/May 2012 25. Ancient Past, New PeaceAfter decades of intense civil war and a devastating tsunami,peace has finally returned to Sri Lanka, an island ofmillennia-old temples and timeless ruins.Words Candace Rose Rardon | Photographs Sherry Ott48 | WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 49 26. DESTINATION SRI LANKA Stairway to Heaven: the climb that leads to the summit of the Sigiriya Rock Golden Glory (right): one of the Buddha statues in DambullaHe isnt blinking. Mystatue in the first temple measures Pramatissa. Hes sitting beneath a treeeyes stay fixed in this 14 meters long. Inside, the air iswith a few other guides and invitingimpossible staringfragrant with the smell of incense, still me to join them.contest, willing the figure sweet from the pink and white lotus I soon learn one of the men isnt ain front of me to defy theblossoms brought by pilgrims. As Iguide but has come from the townodds and give me a wink.move from cave to cave, rain begins tobelow. Every day twice a day, AnantuBut then again, at over 2,000 years fall outside. The gentle trickle againstmakes the trek up the hill bearingold, this guy probably has had a little the rock only adds to the peacefulsamosas, egg patties and a thermospractice. atmosphere surrounding the site.of black tea, providing breakfast andWith his perfect golden skin and Outside the temples, I pause for lunch for the guides.impeccable posture, hes one of 153 a moment at the edge of a cliff - the Anantu is from Trincomalee,Buddha statues lining the walls oflandscape parting like stage curtains toPramatissa tells me. He moved herethe cave temples in Dambulla, Sri reveal the world below. Only the gianttwenty years ago because of the war.Lanka. Built into a 160-meter rock, the crown of the golden Buddhas head isLocated on the northeast coast of theGolden Temple of Dambulla began as avisible amidst the trees. I spot the road country, Trinco (its often shortened),Buddhist monastery in the 3rd century Id just traveled on from Kandy, now awas severely affected by the civil warBC a truly unfathomable amountthin black ribbon winding in and outand the 2004 tsunami.since my own country is barely 400of the forest. The expansive flatlandsI head back down the hill with a bellyyears old.are ringed by dark, jagged hills andfull of two cups of warm tea and I takeAlthough they differ in size andjust in the distance, the unmistakablethis mention of the war as a sign that Imshape, each cave temple is a marvel ofmound of Sigiriya Rock. on the right path. As fascinated as I amshrines, boldly-painted murals, andYou want tea? Its one of theby Sri Lankas millennia of history, it isBuddhas in a variety of poses: sitting, guides Id spotted walking around the chance to learn about the countrysstanding and even reclining - one suchthe complex earlier, a man namedmore recent past that intrigues me most.50 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 51 27. DESTINATION SRI LANKAApart from occasional birdsong and the wind rustling through thetrees, there is complete silence, and it isnt hard to imagine that I amthe sole keeper of this temple in the clouds.Ceylons Ancient Past (LTTE) as the latter group battled forare torn between watching my step andan independent Tamil state. Peace talks taking in the view before me.Sri Lanka lies just 20 miles south of and ceasefires were attempted severalHeavy mist from an early morningIndia in the Indian Ocean - a meretimes throughout the two decades of shower surrounds the sheer-faced rockdollop of an island, yet it is steeped in a conflict, but it wasnt until May of 2009 like a protective cloak. Theres nothinghistory far greater than its geographical that the Tamil Tigers finally agreed to like rain to keep visitors away, andsize. The first settlers are said to have lay down their arms.despite the many buses I saw pullingarrived in the 5th century B.C, and This being my first visit to a post-into Sigiriya Village the night before,throughout time, the country has been conflict zone, Ive arrived with a desire I am alone at the top and I couldnt beknown as Taprobane by the Greeks, to see how such a status affects thehappier.Serendib by the Arabs (where we get country; both what remains of theAt times, the leaden clouds are sothe word serendipity) and as Ceylon war and how the nation is re-building.thick that the entire rock is hidden byduring British rule that itself anBut before I get to Trinco, I have more an impenetrable white haze. At otheriteration of the Portuguese Ceilo. All ground to cover ground even moretimes, the haze retreats, pulling backthese names reflect the countrys rich, ancient than Dambulla. Its as though to reveal the jungled hills below, andcultural heritage and the important I have to learn about Sri Lankas pastthe summits are peeking through therole it has played in the region over the before I can understand its present.mist like tips of an iceberg. Apart fromlast few centuries. occasional birdsong and the wind Just as Sri Lanka gainedindependence from the British in 1948, If Stones Could Talkrustling through the trees, there iscomplete silence, and it isnt hard tothe country began to turn against itself. 1,198.imagine that I am the sole keeper ofYears of ethnic tension simmering 1,199.this temple in the clouds.below the surface finally came to a boil. 1,200. Here in the very center of SriFrom 1983 to 2009, a civil war ragedAs I reach the final stair that leads toLanka sits one of the countrys eightbetween the Sinhalese government and the 370-meter summit of Sigiriya RockUNESCO World Heritage sites, datingthe Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam(Sinhalese for Lions Rock), my eyesas far back as the 5th century B.C. Afriend in Colombo told me, SigiryaRock is Sri Lanka, even if it meansdifferent things to different people. Tome, it means a chance to imagine whatWhitewater rafting in KitulgalaKitulgalas rainforest-covered hills make for the perfect backdrop to a rafting exactly took place here so many yearsexpedition through five miles of class II and III rapids. From the Kelaniya ago.Ganga river, you can spot kingfishers and sleek-throated cormorants. All that remains on the summitis a maze of crumbling terraces andSurfing at Arugam Bay stairs that lead nowhere. Only theCatch the perfect wave along the countrys remote southeast coast. The best brick outlines of ancient foundationsconditions are from May to November, so grab your board and head to spots criss-crossing the grassy surface givelike Crocodile Rock and Pottuvil Point. some clue to the many lives that haveWhale watching off Dondra Point lived on this rock. It first existed as aFrom December to April, this southernmost point of Sri Lanka near the beach Buddhist monastery, and it was duringtown of Mirissa gives you an excellent chance of viewing migrating spermthe 3rd to 1st centuries B.C. that many ofwhales, blue whales and dolphins. its caves and shelters were carved out Lions Rock: The base of thebeneath boulders and ledges. WhenSigiriya where feet are Leopard spotting in Yala National Park Prince Kashyapa moved the countrys carved into the rock wallsWith one of the highest concentrations of leopards in the world, a safari through Ancient Ruins (bottom):capital from Anuradhapura to SigiriyaCrumbling terraces on the summitYala the second largest park in Sri Lanka will have you on the edge of your seat. in 477 A.D., the rock became the bear witness to the glorious pastfortress and palace. During this time,52 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 53 28. DESTINATION SRI LANKADESTINATION SRI LANKA While Trinco has moved on to develop quite a pleasant old-town flair, its the locals who still hold on to the memories of the past war. it acquired pools, water gardens and recovering from the conflict that endedits the locals who still hold on to the intricate frescoes a few still adorn the not so long ago. As one of the mostmemories of the past war. walls of a cave. hotly-contested spots during the war, One morning, a tuk tuk driverEven as archaeologists and historians Trincomalee clearly deserves a visit named Kumara stops me in the street. continue to debate Sigiriyas functionsand I soon find out theres more to this Hello, my friend! Where from? Where throughout time, what strikes me ischarming town than its past. going? You want to ask me a question? simply how it makes you wonder about Built along a sweeping natural I can speak with you, I know English, the stories that wcould be shared if harbor, its hard to believe Trincoyou can ask me anything you want. only the stones could talk.was a conflict zone without the manyAlways happy to chat with a local, Isigns posted in front of the new listen as Kumara tells me how life has Rebuilding the Eastbuilding projects all supported by been for him in the past few years. My journey from the misty hill organizations like the UN, Oxfam,During the war, it was very difficultLocal Life: Tuktuks along the streetscountry through time-warped templesRed Cross, and World Concern Sri to live here,. he said. I am a tuk tukMisty Fields: View of the dark forests and caves has been a steady processLanka. While Trinco has moved on todriver. If the road is closed because ofand hills from Sigiriya Rock. of heading east, to areas that are still develop quite a pleasant old-town flair, fighting, I cant do my work. No tuk54 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 55 29. SouthernDelightsSri Lankas southern coast is littered with stretches ofbeaches and clusters of lesser-known villages. Dont missout on exploring them along this golden coast:MirissaThis sweeping beach along a quiet fishing village is theideal place to kick back in a hammock and rest for yournext adventure in Sri Lanka. HikkaduwaGalleSpend a day wandering through the streets of this old fort During daylight hours this coral sanctuary with its huge swells and palm-lined beach draw divers and surfers, ! Getting there Bandaranaike International are also available for a higher fare. up front start at 3,000LKR a night (US$26), while other simpler rooms arecity and UNESCO World Heritage site. Its stone rampartswhile its nightlife make it the place to be during theAirport just outside Colombo is currently the countrys only international airport. When to Go Given its tropical climate, Sri offered for as low as 1,000LKR (US$8.75).were built by the Dutch along the natural harbor in 1663.weekend. Low-cost Indian airline SpiceJet recently started a daily service from Chennai, Lanka has two rainy seasons each hits different parts of the country in different months. The best time to avoid the Cost of TravelAlthough costs are still reasonable, India, which makes Sri Lanka a naturalyou might find Sri Lanka to be moretuk means no money.down my rhythm and soothed my revel in the true remoteness of Nilaveli monsoons is from December to March on expensive than its next-door neighbor, next destination if youre already on the It is such conversations that show soul. and its unexplored landscapes and in the South and West Coasts, and from May India. Many high-end hotels give their subcontinent.me how much has changed since theOn my last day in Trinco, I head north particular, the feeling of having come asto September on the East Coast. rates in US dollars. What you should If the idea of sailing to Sri Lanka iskeep in mind are the steep entrance feeswar ended and peace has returned: to Nilaveli Beach where a long, sandy far as one can here.renewed safety, a rise in steadyemployment, and the ability to travelstretch of shoreline extends to either sideof me. As laps of foamy waves ply the As the rain picks up once again, I startto head for shelter beneath towering alluring, Flamingo Liners re-launched its ferry service from Tuticorin, India, to W AccommodationSri Lanka offers a wide range to historic sites, but remember that most have UNESCO World Heritage status. Colombo in June 2011, which had beenof options for where to stay. While the A combined Cultural Triangle ticketfreely throughout the country again.shore, the horizon is unbroken except rows of coconut trees,but not without acanceled previously because of the war. country has a lack of hostels, there arefor US$50 will help you save , covering Its this same freedom that allows for the two peaks of Pigeon Island, final glance toward the horizon. I giveA single berth one-way ticket is 6,105affordable guesthouses in most cities and sites such as Sigiriya, Anuradhapura andme to explore the sights of Trincoand the narrow bit of wooded beachPigeon Island a look as if to say, Ill beLKR (US$51), which includes all meals its usually possible to work out a goodPolonnaruwa, but note this doesnt include- from its old Dutch fort, to the cliff-that connects them. In summer, theback. and non-alcoholic drinks for the 14-hourprice with the owners that suits your the Dambulla cave temples, which chargetop Koneswaram Temple, and thecoral beds just off the island make for aI know Ill be returning for the sun, the journey.budget. A key bargaining point is to stay LKR1,200 (US$10.50).Commonwealth War Cemetery at adivers (or snorkelers) paradise, but even snorkeling, and the many stories that Ifor multiple nights. A few good options Be aware that while visas were previouslyrelaxing pace. In fact, Sri Lanka slowedduring the winter monsoon season, I sense Sri Lanka still has left to tell. 1available on entry, this changed on December 1, 2011. Visit Sri Lanka are: Burmese Rest House is an unusual V Packing The diversity of environments in accommodation featuring a quiet,Sri Lanka from balmy beaches to cool inmigration website for more details. columned courtyard that seems out ofrainforests and mountains means youll + Getting aroundMany visitors to Sri Lanka hire place in bustling Kandy. Two Buddhist monks from Burma (and their four small need to bring a wardrobe ready for any climate. A light raincoat and umbrella are musts because its always rainy season a guide who doubles as a driver on theirtortoises) welcome travelers to stay in trip (costs US$40-60/day per person) butseveral upstairs rooms for a mere 300LKRsomewhere. Other key items to remember for independent travelers, rest assured (US$2.60) per night.are your bathing suit, hiking boots, that this isnt necessary. A train networksunscreen and mosquito repellent a Nilmini Lodge offers an escape from mosquito net wouldnt hurt either since connects major cities and the local bus the many resorts that line the road intoits not always provided. system is highly efficient and reliable. Sigiriya Village., A colorfully painted Not only are both route numbers and destinations clearly labeled in English, buses are frequent, even between smaller double room starts at 1,000LKR (US$8.75) a night. Its close proximity to SigiriyaM Websites Here are some helpful links Rock will give you a head start on your villages, and the fares are unbeatable. For Sri Lanka Tourism Board morning hike as well. example, the journey from Colombo toLonely Planet Guide to Sri Lanka Kandy via Kitulgala on a local bus is 200 The newly opened Dyke Rest guesthouse BBC Timeline of Sri Lanka LKR, or US$1.75. Semi-luxury A/C buses in Trincomalee is just steps away fromUNESCO in Sri Lanka Dutch Bay. Beautifully decorated rooms56 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 57 30. CalendarThe Big Easy is known for its lively cul-ture and explosive music scene and willsurely not disappoint during its famousjazz festival. Besides music, this festivalalso showcases food and crafts well-known throughout the state of Loui-siana. In every corner of New Orleans,youll find people dancing through thestreets and in colonial squares, groov-ing to the rhythm of trumpets and bluemelodies.Jazz & Heritage Festival:Songkran: New Orleans 27Apr-6May Spirit of Speyside:Mahavir Jayanti:Thailand 13-15Apr Scotland 3-8MayIndia If you are visiting Thailand during these This week-long whisky festival in 5AOn this day, the entire country comesthree days, prepare to get soaked as theSpeyside, Northeastern Scotland,together to commemorate the birthnation celebrates its New Year with water features numerous tours to localof Jain religious figures, Vardhamanguns and balloon fights! Thais believedistilleries where visitors can learn theMahavir and Tirthankar. Shrines andthat water gets rid of of bad luck so traditions and taste Scotlands nationalPhoto credits: Dayodaya (Wikipedia); Alberto Molero; Gabriel White; Marco Ghitti; Wyndham Hollis; Ray Devlin; spiritofspeyside.com; Cristian Roberti; Nick Fisher; musikfestspiele.com.temples are decorated with colorfulcount yourself lucky to get wet! On New drink. The most infamous of these is theflags and offerings, while people offerYears Day, locals pray, clean their houses marathon Seven Stills Tour that visitsfood and shelter to the less fortunate.and temples, and sprinkle scented water all of Dufftowns distilleries on a singleOne of the celebratory events duringon elders. The most important event trip. But there is more - music, dancing, prilMahavir Jayanti includes the traditionalduring this festival is the bathing of theexhibitions, pipe bands and food andbathing of the Tirthankar idol beforeBuddha statue in Chiangmai. craft fairs.massive processions on the streets. For the 90 million believers and This year marks the 60th anniversary practitioners of the Buddhism faith, April of the Canadian Tulip Festival and it is a month-long party as they celebratepromises to be more colorful than ever Shakyamuni Buddhas birth. Hanawith over 50 varieties of blooming tulips Matsuri celebrations take place in the filling the boulevards and walkways of form of tea ceremonies, elaborate flower the cities. Its a perfect time to visit as decorations and religious parades. Mostspring begins and the scent of the flow- businesses in Japan shut down during ers permeates the air. What first started the golden week of April 29 through Mayout as a celebration of peace and friend- 5. The beautiful cherry blossoms alsoship is now an aesthetically pleasing bloom during this time of the year.flower festival. Hana Matsuri:Tulip Festival: Holy Week: 1-7Apr Japan 8Apr Baisakhi Festival:Festa Dei Serpari:Canada 4-21MayDresden Music Festival: Christian WorldPunjab 13AprItaly3May Germany 15May-3Jun For Christians, Holy Week marks theThis spiritual festival is considered Stay clear of the town of Cocullo in theThroughout these two weeks, Dresdens week before Easter. The celebrations takethe most important day of the year in Abruzzo province of Italy if you aregardens, palaces and religious venues place in the form of elaborate religious Punjab, a state shared between Pakistan afraid of snakes because on Festa dei play host to nearly 80 different music parades in Catholic countries like Spain,and India. The traditional celebrations Serpari (Festival of Snakes), locals take events - from concerts to ballet and op- Philippines, and Mexico. Virgin Mary are held to commemorate the start ofto the streets slathered with these ven-era. The festival includes more than 150 figurines are carried along the streetsthe solar year and their harvest. Visits to omous creatures. To honor their patronclassical concerts that feature local and by brotherhood members who wearGurudwaras (places of worship for the saint St. Dominic, known for his abilityworldwide performers (solo and sym- pentitential robes and conical hats to Sikhs), religious processions, communityto heal snakebites, they cover them-phony orchestras). The Dresden Music conceal their faces. The biggest parades lunches and folk dance are the highlights selves with slithery snakes (their fangsFestival attracts over a million specta- are found in Seville, Spain; and the mostof the day. Amritsar in Northern India is are removed) before parading throughtors each year to this beautiful town in colorful in Antigua, Guatemala.a popular place for Baisakhi celebrations.the town. Eastern Germany.58 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 59 31. A life lesson on the savannahsof Tanzanias Serengeti.Always stay close to thecamp and never gowalking into the grass onyour own. y s aThe words spoken by Ebeneezer, ourTanzanian safari guide, had a fatherly tone ofEsoadmonishment as if I was not a grown man.P h otI had been camping my entire adult life and Iwas familiar with danger. I was sure I couldhandle myself here on the savannah of theSerengeti. When the light of my headlamp caught twoamber gems amidst the waist-high grass threehours later, my nerves understood the weightof Ebeneezers words. Alone, at the edge ofthe campground where semi-manicured grassextended to the deep purple sky, I sensedhow important a group is to survival on theSerengeti. I backed slowly from those mysterious eyes.They could be a lone gazelle or cape buffalo.They could be a hyena or a lion. I wasntwaiting around to find out as I swiftly mademy way back to my daughter and huddledclose with the rest of the group. The next morning I noticed groupseverywhere I looked; from a harem of femaleThompsons gazelles to herds of wildebeestsstomping the dusty fields as we drove by. Isaw safety for newborn elephants amongsta dozen matriarchs lumbering through thebrowning grass, their tusks swaying close tothe ground. And I saw it in the Masai villagewhere young men head out to the wildernessin groups to hunt for food. A week on the savannah taught me anumber of lessons, one of the most importantbeing the importance of groups not onlyin Africa, but at home as well. Groups giveus strength, lift our voice louder and affordus shelter when we need it. Few animalsthrive when they are alone. For the rest of us,staying in a herd is essential to survival. Here are a number of animal groups I foundwhile on safari. Small and large alike, we are allstronger when we stick together. 1 Words & Photographs By Peter West Carey60 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 61 32. DESTINATION TANZANIA Birds of a feather flock together and these flamingos are no different. Found in shallow pools, such as this lake in Ngorongoro Crater, their bright color camouflages the vast numbers. With newborn calves easily vulnerable to lions, elephants also use large numbers inorder to ward off attacks.Cautious giraffes keep an eye in all directions. Their long necks give them a height advantage, but smalleryoung can fall prey to cats hiding in the bush62 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 63 33. DESTINATION TANZANIA DESTINATION TANZANIA Cape buffalo share the same needs as wildebeest, except that the buffalo has little chance to outrun most animals that stalk it. Wildebeest, with their pointed horns, still need the safety of large numbers as a safe haven to raise their young until they can protect the herd. Even lions prefer to hang out together in prides. Often a single male will lead a group of females,although in this pride we spotted, there were twomales and seventeen females.64 | WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 65 34. DESTINATION TANZANIA Gazelles are known as a favorite target of cheetahs and leopards. Without the height advantage of the giraffe, these grazers rely on each others heightened sense of smell and hearing to escape from predators.66 | WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 67 35. DESTINATION TANZANIACheetahs are family orientated for a good portion of their life, sharingtheir kill with others in the clan. Baboons would be easy picking if they were to leave the group high in the trees. They also remain together to help raise the young.Warthogs not only stay close as a family, they stay close to other groups. Small and not especially fast, these herbivorous are often found near groups ofelephants and other larger animals.68 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 69 36. While some hippos are solitary, they are People are everywhere in this region of Africa often found lounging in large groups just and also prefer to travel in packs, whether they under the water surface, each keeping an eyeare herding cattle as these Masais... out for aggressive crocodiles....or traveling the dirt roadslooking for wildlife tophotograph.70 | WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 71 37. Mongolian EscapeA yurt stay on the empty plains of Inner Mongolia reveals a regionin China rich in nomadic traditions and untouched landscapes, anda world away from bustling cities. words megan eaves | Photographs Fotolia72 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 73 38. JUST BACK CHINADramatic Landscapes: The vast prairiesand mountains of Inner MongoliaBottom: Semi-permanent yurts nearHohhotAs the sun slowly sets,Russia, it is a province of few peoplecasting pink andAs an autonomous and wide landscapes. Sprawled acrossturquoise rays across the extensive region are lush prairies,the sea of grass outside region in China, Innerdune-filled deserts, and scatteredmy window, I sigh andMongolia is a self-villages.breathe deeply. Its hard to believe thatgoverning area with a After living for more than a yearjust yesterday I was battling throngs ofamongst the crowds and noise ofshoppers, raucous traffic and lifelesshigh ethnic minorityEastern China, Id been longing tosmog in Beijing - while before me nowpopulation - little surprise head northwest to soak up the promisestretches an ocean of prairie met by that its largely cut offof vast horizons and nomadic cultureblue skies in Inner Mongolia. from the world. in Mongolia - but a local Chinese Twinkling stars pile up on the inkyfriend suggested that I might just findhorizons, ending in a Milky Way moreit here, right inside Chinas borders.vast than I ever knew existed. Outside,As one of five autonomous regionsSometimes the most memorableits all grass and gentle slopes.There are in the country, Inner Mongolia is amoments are had unintentionally, andno lights. No trees. No buildings. Itsself-governing area with a high ethnicthat is certainly the case tonight.empty, empty of people.minority population little surprise When most people hear of this place,that its largely cut off from the outsidethey think of Mongolia, a separate world. Night in a Gercountry to the north of China. But Covering some 457,000 square miles Were staying with a local, ethnicallyIm in Inner Mongolia, part of the (nearly twice the size of Texas), InnerMongolian Chinese family, whoPeoples Republic of China and itMongolia spans roughly 12% of Chinasowns several tents on a large patch ofboasts equally outstand