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RROBERTOGROUP LIMITED
PITTI UOMO SS18
The central trend of this season’s Pitti Uomo was of whites and off-whites with very bright accents – particularly in red, turquoise, deep sea green and yellow. The continued trend for grid checks was evident this season in large-scale checks, textured checks and an emerging trend in pastel Bombay checks. Conversational designs in both woven and print tended towards seaside themes – with shellfish, sea creatures, ice creams and retro seaside resort motifs. A secondary trend was for tropical fruits and tropical foliage. Silks tended to be blended with cotton or linen for a softer, Mediterranean summer look across both print and woven men’s accessories. Standard ties were much more visible this season, at the expense of bows and pocket squares becoming slightly less prevalent. This season’s show had a really upbeat, positive, summery vibe!
PITTI UOMO SS18
RROBERTOGROUP LIMITED
Tie Overview -Blade widths essentially unchanged, in the range 6-8cm, with 7cm most popular
-Lots of silk warps with cotton, linen or blended wefts for a ‘softer’ look
-Noil, Oxford, Natte textures, especially for plains and checks
-Softer feel weaves and textures for most wovens
-Checks had a strong presence again, in all kinds of scales and structures
-Some prints on textured bases and foulard, Paisley and baroque overprints onto woven designs
-However, generally prints are showing a return to printing on classic, cleaner silk bases
-Some bold, wide block stripes and candy stripes (often on slub or seersucker) but otherwise stripes less in evidence than previous years
-Seaside and tropical motifs, both wovens and especially prints, on clean base fabrics, in quite small repeats
-Retro 70s prints, especially Paisleys and medium-scale geometrics, now emerging
speckled /checks
ombre
wide stripes retro in variousstyles
no interlining
seaside motifs
checks
PITTI UOMO SS18
RROBERTOGROUP LIMITED
Tie Quirks-A few stands were showing ‘deconstructed’ ties, with no interlining or very short interlining
-Some really unusual combinations of denim and tropical (darker tone-on-tone foliage prints)
-Dip-dye and ombré in evidence in men’s knits – and may re-emerge into ties..
-Juxtaposition of contrasting designs on same piece
-Brands to Watch: -Eton - see for trend/print direction
-Eredi Chiarini - see for classic woven ties in pastel shades and deconstructed ties
-Silvio Fiorello - see for innovative and refreshing colours
-Fiorio - see for classic woven ties and conversational prints
-Fox Haus - see for multicoloured stripes, gingham checks, geometrical textures,vibrant flowers
-Franco Bassi - see for small foulards, micro-geos, medallions and paisleys
Ties with no interlining - linen (left) knitted tie (right)
Fiorio textured checks
wide/textured stripes
retro-style foulards
RROBERTOGROUP LIMITED
Bow-ties at Pitti, this season, were in various sizes with ditsy conversational motifs - in print and woven - being the popular style for SS18.
Key look - was the classic shape, which looked great in textured/slubby linen wovens, with an overprint of foulards or all-over paisleys.
Prints Printed bows are always key, and this season retro bows were all around the show - featuring mini-spaced geometrics as well as large medallion sized retro shapes - (Brand To Watch:Franco Bassi + Marzullo).
‘Fun-in-the-sun’ motifs take over conversationals along with deep sea creatures.Stand-out motifs included ditsy crabs, octopus(Paul Smith), sailboats, ice-creams (Eton),watermelon and dolphins.
Bright spots - (Brand To Watch: FeFe)
Bombay checks started to emerge followinga psychotropical feel and coloured with brightaccents, and usually in lightweight cotton -(Brand To Watch: Eton).
Packaging - FeFe boxes were very well presented featuring a sneak preview of bow.
Bow-Tie Overview
PITTI UOMO SS18
RROBERTOGROUP LIMITED
- Conversational ‘seaside’ prints stole the show – both in more photographic prints and in hand-drawn repeats- Lightweight silk twill and cotton bases dominated – with some pin stripe bases overprinted with motifs- Nautical stripes and deck chair stripes continued the seaside theme (Brands to watch: Harmont & Blaine, Z Zegna)- Pocket squares were generally all borderless- Designers are experimenting with digital printing – shown in some huge, abstract overlay geometrical designs (see below left)- Psychotropical collages and juxtapositions of motifs, creating striking, unique placement prints- Summer motifs included seaside themes (crab, ice cream, beach hut) and tropical fruit (banana, watermelon) -see below right- Big medallion / neats - bright colourways and navy/white were popular among brands
Pocket Square Overview
PITTI UOMO SS18
19-3
921
TPX
19-3
925
TPX
18-4
434
TPX
17-4
139
TPX
14-4
317
TPX
15-1
516
TPX
12-1
010
TPX
17-1
503
TPX
14-4
103
TPX
13-0
907
TPX
19-4
053
TPX
18-0
430
TPX
15-0
953
TPX
11-0
617
TPX
12-0
313
TPX
13-5
313
TPX
12-5
303
TPX
12-0
720
TPX
11-0
601
TPX
15-1
160
TPX
17-1
140
TPX
18-1
661
TPX
17-5
126
TPX
17-4
540
TPX
13-0
850
TPX
11-0
701
TPX
17-1
212
TPX
CO
LOUR
OF
THE
SEA
SON
CORE COLOURS
FASHION COLOURS
ACCENT COLOURS
RROBERTOGROUP LIMITED
SEASON’S PALETTE
PITTI UOMO SS18
*for further images on Pitti Uomo SS18 images please see our pinterest board -https://uk.pinterest.com/robertogrpbg/ss18-pitti-images/