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and

the booklet-gameof the exhibition

« Le xviiie au goût du jour -The 18th century back in fashionCouturiers and fashion designers

in the Grand Trianon »

Until 9 October 2011 organized with the Museum

Present

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The 18th century backin fashion

With this booklet-game, you can discover all the secrets of the exhibition “The 18th century back in fashion” in the Grand Trianon palace in the Estate of Versailles.

During your visit, you will be able to discover sumptuous dresses of great fashion designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Lacroix, who have been inspired by the fashion of the 18th century.

The Marie-Antoinette’s estate

After you have visited the exhibi-tion, head off to Marie-Antoinette’s

Estate. With its hamlet with its farm animals and its “mini-palace”, the Petit Trianon, this is where the queen liked to stay with her children.

To win

To end this journey to the land of princes and princesses, don’t forget to draw the dress or the palace of your dreams, fill in the form and send off the last page.

You may win a genuine princess dress designed by Mademoiselle P,a specialist in made-to-measure costumes inspired by the 18th century, or a “palace” kit con-taining numerous games and toys from SMALLable!

Welcome to the Grand Trianon!©

J-F.

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Grand Trianon

PetitTrianon Queen’s

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Are you ready? Your turn now!

Practical advice • The exhibition is open every day from 12:00 noon to 6:30 pm (except Monday).• Tickets: free for children; €10 for adults aged over 26 (exhibition + accessto Marie-Antoinette’s Estate),• Included in the Passeport ticket to visit all the Estate of Versailles.

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At Versailles, fashion was an essential part of life!

In the Palace of Versailles, the ladies and their huge court dresses impressed all the ambassadors of Europe. Their dresses were so large that by bowing their heads they could hide themselves completely behind them and say all kinds of silly things! In the palace of Trianon, the ladies wore simpler dresses. But, even though these dresses had no train, they were still covered with decorations.

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Formal dress ball in Versailles, for the wedding of Monseigneur the Dauphin (the heir), on Wednesday 24 February 1745.

Fashion in the 18th century

Game of 7 differences Find the 7 differences between those pain-tings. The original (at the top) is a portrait of Marie-Antoinette, in 1775 wearing a grand habit (formal gown), with her right hand resting on a globe, painted by Jean-Baptiste André Gautier-Dagoty.

Marie-Antoinette : a queen intensely interested in fashion

Advised by Rose Bertin, one of the most famous fashion traders of the time, Marie-Antoinette, the wife of king Louis XVI, loved to wear finery, decorate her hair with feathers and promote new fashions.

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Portrait of Rose Bertin, the supplier of all the decora-tive details on dresses and hats, by G. Ripart.

>>>>

The 18th century, in the reign of king Louis XV, gave much importance to the enjoyment of pleasure and frivolity which was reflected in the way people dressed.

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The grand habit (formal gown)At the Court of Versailles, the ladies could not dress whatever way they fancied! For the grand ceremonies they wore a full outfit: a rigid and very bulky costume, consisting of a stay, a skirt held up by a large pannier or hoop, and a train 2 to 3 metres long!

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Marie Antoinette, portrayed in 1778 by Élisabeth Louise Vigée-Le Brun, in formal gown, “with a hoop”.

Women’s dresses in the 18th century

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Sack-back gown or robe à la française, around 1750-1755.

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Stay, around 1750-1785

The robe à la française

Fortunately, the ladies could choose less formal and lighter dresses for outings, candle-light dinners or for playing all kinds of board and card games in the evening in the small apartments of the Palace. They then wore this “sack-back gown”, a kind of gown with box pleats in the back that fell to the ground and a shorter train, which was called a “robe à la française”.

Dressing in those days was not easy. The blouse, petticoats, hoops, stay and dress all had to be put on in a certain order. To adjust the robe à la française, it was even necessary for a helper to get in under the dress to tie the small inner ribbons! Fortunately, the court ladies had well-trained maids for these tasks!

The stay The stay was worn over a blouse. Laced in the front or the back, the purpose of the bone corset was to push the shoulders back and make the waist more slender. Worn very tightly, they were a frequent cause of dizziness and fainting among the women of the Court!

Question: Will you be able to recognise the robes à la française during your visit?.....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

Question: Find the geometrical shape formed by the bust of a woman wearing a stay (circle the right answer).

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The pannier

The pannier is worn under the petticoat and consists of a stiffened regular-shaped frame of whalebones or hoops of basketwork. The shape of the pannier evolved during the 18th century. In the middle of the century, hinged panniers of a modest size became popular as they were much more convenient.

The purpose here also was to emphasise women’s curves by widening the hips to make the waist look narrower. The width of some dresses supported by panniers could reach 3 metres, forcing the women to go through doors sideways!

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Duchess in formal gown occupying one of the highest places with the queen.

By Nicolas Dupin le Jeune.

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Rochas, par Olivier Theyskens, 2006.

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Thierry Mugler, 1992.

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Christian Lacroix, 1995.

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Maison Christian Dior, 2007.

Question: Among these dresses with panniers by 20th century designers, which one do you prefer (circle the photo)?

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In the 18th century men, like women, paid great attention to their clothing.

The three pieces suit or habit à la française was made up of 3 garments: a coat, a jacket, a waistcoat and close-fitting breeches – which let these gentlemen riders show off their solid calves…

The coat was long, reaching to the knees: the part between the waist and the knees, called the tails or basques, was divided to allow men to rise a horse and carry a sword. Don’t forget that all noble gentlemen in the 18th century were riders, fencers and excellent dancers!

ç Game: Indicate the name of the 3 items forming three piece suit.

ç Question: You have pro-bably noted that some contemporary fashion designers have taken their inspiration from men’s costumes of the period for women’s outfits! Among these costumes, which one is really a man’s costume?

Men’s costume in the 18th century

Yohji Yamamoto, 2011. Jean Paul Gaultier, 1998.

Vivienne Westwood, 1979.

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Balenciaga, by Nicolas Ghesquière, 2006.

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4Accessories playing hide-and-seek…Fans of all kinds, large bonnets, hats sporting flowers or feathers, embroidered clutch bags, beaded purses, high-heeled shoes decorated with buckles, buttons, scarves and shawls, hidden pockets… the accessories played hide-and-seek!

The shoes, covered with embroidered silk, were hidden under the petticoats. The pockets concealed under the skirts held handkerchiefs, perfumed salts, precious scissors. The fan was used by ladies to hide their faces and their extravagant “beauty spots”. The buttons would be opened to read romantic messages or look at amorous scenes.

Fashion accessories in the 18th century

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ç Game: Arroword crossword

ç Question:

What was the fan used for?

To fan one’s face when it was too hot.

To fan a slow fire to make it light.

To chase birds away.

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During theatre performances and balls, women competed with each other to display the beauty of their finery made from the finest silk fabrics richly decorated with lace, flowers, feathers, beads, pearls and semi-precious stones. And, of course, they showed off their diamonds! Well of course, they were in the King’s court!

A learned glossary*…

The vocabulary of the period used thousands of words and expressions to describe all the precious little details of clothing. The words used for the clothes and their ornaments are often mysterious and even the historians do not always know what they mean!

* Pascale Gorguet-Ballesteros, Glossary, in “Le xviiie au goût du jour. Couturiers et créateurs de mode au Grand Trianon”. Catalogue published by: Artlys, Château de Versailles et de Trianon

The care for details: fabrics and ornaments in the 18th century…

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Robe à la française, vers 1750-1755.

«Pagoda» shaped sleeves: Type of sleeves that were narrow down to the crook of the arm and then en-ding in a wide flounce.

Flouncing: Long and narrow panels of fabric flounced in the middle and added to the edges of dresses and skirts.

May-bug’s eyebrows (sourcil de hanneton): Silk braid trimming grouped by colour shades sown on to the robe».

Jacket (caraco): A jacket with tails of variable length and long or three-quarter sleeves.

ç Question : Imagine a name for this hairstyle.

ç Answer : Pouf, known as “La Victoire” (Victory).

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The English fashion designer Vivienne Westwood was one of the first to go back to the fashion codes of the 18t century. She was inspired by the dresses in the paintings of Boucher that she transformed into printed dresses over bodices stretched with elastic fabric. She has brought dresses with panniers back into fashion, made from parachute fabric and adorned with little angels, and uses a mass of bows and ribbons all over her designs.

…18th century know-how revived by contemporary fashion designers

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Thierry Mugler, 1997. Maison Christian Dior, 2007. Chanel, 2005.

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Balenciaga,printemps-été 2006.

Vivienne Westwood, 1995-1996.

ç Game : Link the dresses to the details that belong to them.

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The exhibition that you have visited is in the Grand Trianon. Did you know that this palace, built in the reign of Louis XIV, is also called the “marble Trianon”? It was given this name because of the pink marble covering it on the outside. As you stroll around it you will discover the beauty of its formal French gardens. At this time, over 96,000 plants were buried in pots so that they could be changed every day!

ç Questions:What do you think “Trianon” means?

An animal with 3 horns.A pavilion annexed to a royal palace. A pointed hat.

What is a “formal French garden”?A garden left to go wild.A garden where French is spoken. A garden laid out in a very ordered way with geometric patterns.

Marie-Antoinette’s Estate has a number of features including the Petit Trianon palace and the famous Hamlet (small village) of the Queen. The wife of Louis XVI liked to retire to this Hamlet to enjoy the simple pleasures of country life and forget the Court of Versailles and its very strict etiquette.

Built by Louis XV, it was given as a gift to Marie-Antoinette by Louis XVI in these words: “You like flowers, Madame, so I have a bouquet for you. It’s Trianon.” She found here in Versailles what she had known in Vienna – a more relaxed life with her family and friends.

ç Game:Surrounded by gardens, the Petit Trianon is visible from all sides. You who can walk around it, can you tell us if the 4 sides are identical? Yes

No

The Grand Trianon Marie-Antoinette’s Estate The Petit Trianon

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Marie-Antoinette portrayed in 1778 by Elisabeth Louise Vigée-Le Brun wearing formal court dress and holding a rose.

Now let’s turn to the Trianon palaces and Marie-Antoinette’s Estate

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A kind of small Normandy village, it has a number of buildings that include the Queen’s House, consisting of 2 distinct buildings linked by a wooden gallery; the Mill and its Water Wheel, a decorative feature that, contrary to what is often claimed, was never used to grind wheat; the Clean Dairy, where the queen came to enjoy creams and cheeses; the charming Dovecote, located near the stone bridge over the river with its carps and the Marlborough Tower used to store the material and the boats used for fishing for pike or carp.

The hamlet is also well-known for her genuine Farm, whose produce went to the kitchens of the Palace of Versailles and where Marie-Antoinette herself did not hesitate to play with cows and nanny-goats! Now transformed into an educational farm, the Hamlet houses a hundred animals: goats, sheep, geese, donkeys, hens and chickens, ponies, rabbits, pigs, ducks, etc.

The Hamlet

Wishing to enjoy the charms of life in the country, Marie-Antoinette ordered her “Hamlet” to be built in 1783.

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ç Game:Everything in its place!Link by a line each animal to where it lives.

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12Credits: www.bubblemag.fr. Design: Pascale Gorguet-Ballesteros, Chief Curator at the Musée Galliera and Anne-Laure Trouble. Graphic design: Marion Senlis.

Design the dress or the palace of your dreams… and you may win a real princess’s dress based on your drawing(!) made by Mademoiselle P, a specialist in dresses inspired by the 18th century, or a “palace” kit consisting of numerous games and toys offered by SMALLable, a website for design, fashion and wonderful things for children!

To take part in this competition, fill in the form below, and send it with your drawing by 14 October 2011 to:

Château de Versailles - Pavillon Dufour - Direction de la communication - RP834 - 78008 Versailles Cedex.

Consult the complete rules of the competition and the details of the prizes on www.chateauversailles.fr/expositionmode

“Marie-Antoinette” dress by Mademoiselle P. Kit « château », SMALLable.

FormUs, the undersigned,Surname of the legal representative*: .......................................................................E-mail address**: .................................................................................................Address*: ............................................................................................................PC*: ............... City*: ...........................................................................................Country: ....................................................Tel.: ....................................................

Allow our child :Surname (of the child)*: .........................................................................................First name (of the child)*: .......................................................................................Date of birth (of the child)*: ............................................ Boy* Girl*To participate to the competition in the conditions stated in the rules of the competitionE-mail** : ...........................................................................................................I wish to receive by e-mail the news about : The Palace of Versailles The great ideas for the family from Bubblemag SMALLable and Cyrillus * Mandatory fields ** To receive the answers of the booklet-game and the competition

Game co-organised by the Château de Versailles and Bubblemag, in partnership with Smallable and Cyrillus from 8 July to 14 October 2011 inclusive. Open to all participants (subject too parental authorisation for minors) possessing the booklet-game. 2 winners decided by a jury. The rules of the game are accessible on www.chateauversailles.fr/expositionmode and/or are sent for free by post if a written request is sent to the following address: Etablissement Public de Versailles / Direction de l’Information et de la Communication / Service Partenariats Médias / RP834 78008 Versailles. Commercial value of each prize: €350. The data collected are processed only by EPV/Bubblemag/Smallable/Cyrillus according to the boxes ticked by the participants. In accordance with the law on data protection and freedom of information (Informatique et Libertés, 6 January 1978, revised), the participants have the right to access the data concerning them as well as additional information, and to correct these data and, if necessary, oppose the recording of the data. They can at any time oppose the communication of these data to third parties. Any request to access or correct personal data or to oppose the recording of these data must be sent to the address given above.

www.mademoisellep.fr www.smallable.com

We wish to thank Cyrillus, the ready-to-wear and household goods brand, the partner of the booklet-game. You can obtain this booklet-game for free from 8 August to 1 October 2011 in one of the 19 Cyrillus boutiques in the Paris region (list of boutiques available on www.cyrillus.fr/page/magasins.htm