presentazione italian fashion

Naples

Lecture by

Marianna Carbone

Academy of Fine Arts,

[email protected]

«The Colors of

Italian Fashion»

LMA Art Academy of Latvia

September 2013

Yesterday

http://www.accademiadinapoli.it/

mailto:[email protected]

mailto:[email protected]

http://www.accademiadinapoli.it/

Naples

Postcards

fromNaples

Everytime

A history report…

Life in Naples

…now

ContentsWhere I come from?

• History and heritage in colors• Inspiration and tradition• The colors of the Fashion lords

The city I’ve lived• Neaples Inspiration and

tradition• «Artifex» colors

Contemporary in colors• Academy of fine arts Naples• New style• New talents for young students

Carbonem contents

2 minutes ago

Outline

Carbonem outline

The next two hours

ItalyNow

Carbonem where I come from?

A history in colors Leading blue!

Many years ago..

Why to make an

opera when is so nice to

dream only?

«Il Decameron»Film by P.P. Pasolini,

1971

Giotto, Cappella

degli Scrovegni Padova,

1303-1305


A history in colorsBlue more golden age!

Many years ago..

Virgin Enthroned

with Angels, detail, Fogg Art Museum,

Harvard.

Spinello Aretino

Tempera and gold leaf on

wood, c. 1380

Gold and blue influence!


A history in colorsHistory and heritage in colors

Many years ago..

carbonemwhereIcome from?

Cappella Sistina,

Michelangelo Buonarroti1508-1512

The color of God!

Inspirations and traditions

Craft and memory

Until now..

Lace, 16° century, Italy

One of the oldest art

related the fashion in Italy was the art of lace, born in Venice in the 15° century

and then quickly spread

around the world.



Until now..


Border, Milan 2nd half 17th Century

The fashion lace initially concerned only cuffs, then was used for collar borders and was an embellishment of personal and household linen as well as vestments of the church and veils for brides.


Until now..


Fitted border, Venice, mid-17th Century

The most famous place for the lace is Venice in particular Burano (a beautiful Island near Venice) that is the oldest center for embroidered/needle lace. The first Burano lace trace back to 1500. It was created in the noble house using a needle and thread without any canvas for support. The subjects were geometric designs; flowers, animals... This art was really vivid until the second half of 20th century when he women started very early, since they didn't attend school and spent

all the time with their mothers who taught them how to do it.At 12-13 years they started to go to school at the Scuola dei Merletti, managed by nuns. It was a convenient place to work, since until 1950 most of the houses didn't have neither heat nor light, whereas there they were paid fort heir job and they also have light and heat all day..


Until now..


Italy is a place where tradition and craftsmanship are still sheltered and nurtured, although it's becoming more and more difficult to protect these beautiful forms of art (just like filigree). One way to keep them alive is to embrace and remember them.

Needlepoint lace pattern panel, Italy,

2nd half 17th cent



The italian straw «strange» hat…

1928

The traditional art of working with straw found its greatest expression in the area of Signa from the latter part of the 19th century up to the present day.The manufacture of the world-famous Leghorn hat developed in this region.

One of the first Italian fashion products to be exported was the straw hat. The processing of the straw hat was an old tradition alive until today where the heritage of the artisanal tradition of Florentine straw hats is united to the dynamism of today’s marketing.



The «straw» color

1760

The tradition of artisanal art and quality are the most important ingredients of “made in Italy”.The opposite face of the fashion star system are the million of small company that make good quality product and exported all the world laboriusly.



The «straw» color

1950

Typical straw hat from

Florence in 1950s.

That’s stunning!



The «straw» color

While we are talking..

Until today survive some art craft like wickers production,

Though much of them on the market today come from the East, the traditional

European craft survives in pockets

of the Mediterranean likePortugal, Spain an

d Italy. In Sicily in particular wicker is

still crafted according to the most ancient of

traditions and is a real art.

Sicilian Folk, Italian traditions and

craftsmanship are subjects close to Domenico

Dolce and Stefano Gabbana

The designers explored many Sicilian crafts in the Spring Summer 2013 runway collection and wicker formed a true mouth dropping sub theme. Weaved wicker reeds are fashioned into corsets, dresses and even heels of shoes, as a visual and fashionable celebration of those great crafts from the past that still survive today.

The colors of the Fashion Lords

Color contrasts


Once upon in a time

understanding of new

scientific theories like the theory of

color and light, opens to the daily life

and the ephemeral.

“A painting walks in the

crowd”

Fortunato Depero, Gilet

futurista, 1930 ca

Futur-gilet!

Before the fashion industry the fashion met the visual art. This futuristic gilet is an espression of creativity and scientific knowledgment at that time. Here the futuristic energy of this artistic period is converted into creative joy that while moving from a deep


Color contrasts

Once upon in a time


Unknown author, Parasol,

1920-1930

Simultaneous colors for

modern design.

in the 20s futurism produces

design objects, costumes, textiles, scenery,

overcoming difference

between art, fashion and

everyday life


Color contrasts


Once upon in a time

Unknown author, Parasol,

1920-1930


Color contrasts

Some yars ago...


Giacomo Balla, Model

of golf, 1930.

A painting to wear...

Very interesting is the relationship between the Futuristic painters, in particularly Giacomo Balla and clothing. It’s a sort of surprising decoration with vivid and brilliant shapes and colors to create irruption of vivacity in the daily life rythm!


Color contrasts


Once upon in a time

Giacomo Balla,

Woman dress, 1930

Art/life/Art/ craft


Color contrasts


Once upon in a time

Fortunato Depero,

gilet, 1924


Color contrasts


Once upon in a time

Painter, sculptor, designer, creator of famous «coveralls», Ernesto Thayat interpret the spirit of the decade working in all forms of art. Was collaborator of Madeleine Vionnet since 1918.

E. Thayat, Sketches for M.Vionnet, 1921-1924


Color contrasts


Once upon in a time

E. Thayat, Sketches for M.Vionnet, 1921-1924

Thayaht also developed numerous patterns for printing on fabric that Vionnet used for her dresses, and designed some original models, including landscapes.


Color contrasts


Once upon in a time

The visual research around Futurism and Italian design of 20s and 30s in Italy, has certainly influenced many fashion designer until today! One of this is Salvatore Ferragamo, as we can see in his beautiful shoes there are many tribute s to the colors research of Futurism as well as to the artists of Bauhaus that made possible the union between pragmatism and utopia just like the italian shoes by Ferragamo.


Color contrasts


Once upon in a time

Salvatore Ferragamo, Sandal, 1938-1940, raffia, cork wedge heel


Elsa: pink and more…


1890-1973

Italian fashion designer, Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973), was one of the most influential creators of Parisian haute couture in the era between the two World Wars. She was a visionary and artist in the fashion industry, bringing aShocking new style to the dull and drab knitwear age. She worked with Dada and Surrealist artists on her fashion, fragrance, and advertisement designs. Schiaparelli had close relationships with many artist in the Parisian artistic community, including Man Ray Salvador Dali, Jean Cocteau, Alberto

Giacometti, and Marcel Vertes. Some of her most important and iconic pieces were influenced by or collaborated on with the famous artists, specifically surrealists, of her dayin 5 seasons in 1938 and 1939, she presented some of her most memorable thematic collections:the Circus, Pagan, Zodiac, Commedia dell’arte, and Music.


Commedia dell’arte collection


1939

Elsa Schiaparelli's Patchwork evening jacket was inspired by the Harlequin pattern used by Surreallist artist during this time period, artist of influence included Pablo Picasso and Man Ray. See Le Beau Temps by Man Ray. Polychrome wool felt, blue silk faille; Commedia dell'Arte collection; embroidered by Lesage.


Color and poetry


1937

Schiaparelli's "Cocteau" Evening Jacket, Fall 1937.

Created by Elsa Schiaparelli and artist Jean Cocteau. Linen, metalic foil, beads, paillettes; embroidered by the House of Lesage.



1937

Surrealist colors



1937

Shocking-pink dress (fall 1937), silk-velvet bolero with metal embroidery by Lesage (fall 1938), and Starburst earrings, c.mid-1930s

Shocking!



1939

Shocking!



1938

Circus collection

Jacket with handmade acrobat buttons



1938

Circus collection



1914-1992

Vivid printsOn brief leave from the Italian Air Force, pilot Emilio Pucci, the Marchese di Barsento, is on holiday in Zermatt, Switzerland, when ski costumes he designed for himself and a girlfriend—a chic hooded parka and streamlined pants—catch the eye of fashion photographer Toni Frissell. She snaps his designs and encourages him to work on more. (“When one skis, it is not necessary to look a mess,” he will later say. “The skis are waxed, and it is just as important that one’s gloves are as perfect.”

On leave in Capri, Pucci designs bright, breezy dresses for a female friend. Capri pants are born.

His colorful wear mirroring the mediterranean surrounding Landscape of bougainvillea and blue sea.



1968

«Prince of prints»

“True elegance is freedom of expression”Emilio Pucci

In the sixties, Pucci created prints more and more lively, with a kaleidoscope as a guide to color his Op-Art arabesques, filigree, and mosaic patterns in Art Nouveau stylized and geometric patterns.



2009-2010


His brilliance reminiscent of art, landscape and nature...



2009-2010


...And ceramics.



60s




1932

«The last emperor»

“I know what women want,” “They want to be beautiful.”

Valentino

His dresses were clean and modern, yet unabashedly feminine—with bows, flowers, ruffles, lace, embroideries—always in the finest fabrics, always elegant.In his first collection, there appeared what would become his signature: a dress the color of poppies, later known as “Valentino red.”



«The last emperor»

In July 2007, Valentino celebrated 45 years of luxury in high style. The glitterati flocked to Rome for a three-day gala, during which they were treated to a retrospective at the ancient Ara Pacis, dinner at the Temple of Venus, an aerial ballet, and a grand ball at the Villa Borghese. As fireworks sparkled overhead, it was clear to all assembled that Valentino was a living legend.

That fall, the designer announced his retirement. “As the English say, I would like to leave the party when it is still full.” The following January, he walked his last runway to a standing ovation.

2007



Rouge

2007

Although Italian red is very popular in many areas the true red is «valentino red»



Valentino red and white

2013

All colors are pure and elegant.

Valentino maison under the new creative direction continue to be sophisticated and glamour but more cool, modern and contemporary!

Valentino Couture, S/S 2013



Valentino in red flowers

2013




Not only red : architecture black and white

2013




Back to red

2013




King Giorgio

1934



Greige by Giorgio Armani

80s

A major contribution to the success of Italian designer fashion during the 80s decade was provided by Giorgio Armani who fascinates as much by his timeless style as by his excellent business sense.

Armani’s particular design trademark is the classic suit which has been equally influential on menswear and womenswear.It became the symbol of a relaxed, businesslike appearance for either sex




2012

Inspired by the film in black and white, and the atmosphere of America in the twenties and thirties, his style chooses shapes sharp and clean tones and cool colors: beige, gray and greige, a new shade in the balance between the gray and earthy sand

Armani’s particular production ranges between clothes of all kinds.Changes the design of the jackets: Deletes the internal supports (padding and interlinings), are moved to the buttons and changed the traditional proportions: thus born the unstructured jackets, absolute emblem of his style




2012

Another source of great inspiration for Armani is the oriental culture and Arabic. In fact introduce some of its leaders korean collars, and coats similar to djellaba




2012

The City I’ve livedNeaples inspirations and traditions

carbonemcityI’velived

Many years ago..

Naples, The maiolica

Cloister of Santa Chiara,

1739

Brilliant pop-colors!

There is an incredible cloister in one of the hundred churches in Naples that’s a sample of collection of brilliant and fresh colors. The scenes are about allegories and daily life.

Neaples inspirations and traditions

History and heritage in colors

Many years ago..


Naples, The maiolica

Cloister of Santa Chiara,

1739

Brilliant pop-colors

Neaples inspirationsHistory and heritage in colors

Many years ago..


Pompei, Villa dei Misteri,

fresco I century b.C.

Neaples inspirationsHistory and heritage in colors

Many years ago..


Artistic and cultural

tangible assets of Umanity...

Pompei, Villa dei Misteri,

fresco I century b.C.

«Rosso Pompeiano»One of the

famous color in the

world is rosso

pompeiano. Pompei was discovered

in 18° century and his frescos, his history, his heritage were really impressive!


Until now..


Geography of blue: Antwerp blue, Prussian Blue, oltremare blue, cobalt, manganese, turquoise and finally, the most mysterious: «vietrese blue»..

Ceramics, Vietri sul mare (Sa) Italy


Until now..


The cultural history of a city is a sum of many stories, experiences, persons and traditions. It’s also the expression of past and future. Among various arts the Vietrese ceramic is a tangible asset of cultural expression and renovation of a city!




Until now..



A history in colorsInspirations and traditions

Until now..



Until now..


The city of «guarattelle»

The word «Guarattella» is the dialect version of italian word «puppet». This tradition is alive since 1500 in south of Italy where in a tipical street theatre were represented fantastic stories about Pulcinella and other italian traditional masks.

The guarattella is worn on the hand of the man who drives the puppet telling stories about wizards, devils, death and popular tales.


Until now..


"From the 15th century, the puppeteers Neapolitan traveled far and wide. Often along with other street artists (actors, buskers, charlatans, mountebanks) the puppeteers turned from one city to another, from one country to another, in the wake of fairs and markets, doing know and appreciate

their art not only along the borders of the Italian territory, but in the whole of Europe and beyond.So they exported the Italian Renaissance, and the puppet theater.


Until now..


«Pulcinella and death»

Known in England as Punch, in Spain as don Cristobal, in Holland as Pekilaring, in Russia as Petruska.


Until now..


The plays of guarattelle consists in some fights between Pulcinella an other supernatural personages (as Death or Devil) or deputies of high society (as Doctor, Judge, priest, Policeman, Boia) hardly ever Pulcinella loose the game and at the end of story he plays with beaten corpses.

These stories are symbols of ancestral dynamism and vitality . The sentiment that tell are the sentiment of universe.

Artifex colors


1950

Thanks to the tailors tradition in Naples, south of Italy, there are many example of succesful stories as “Marinella ties company”. The shop, founded by Don Eugenio in 1914 soon becomes a small precious casket in which authentic treasures of refinement and taste can be found, a small corner of England in Naples.

In a time when the English style is a lot in fashion, Marinella is the only one to propose, in Naples, a vast range of exclusive products coming from London, exacting the sole right from the English suppliers

Marinella, Napoli

Artifex colors


1950

The passion for the elegance and the quality still today goes on, thanks to Maurizio Marinella, third generation of the family, that has picked up the inheritance of the mark with an entrepreneurial spirit in agreement with the modern laws of the marketing, succeeding in making the mark E. Marinella be affirmed also abroad, from the United States to Japan.

The production signed E.Marinella has preserved the scrupulous attention to the quality of the raw materials and the cared manifacture, still today rigorously handicraft , for these "veracious Neapolitan" and at the same time "very british" ties.

Marinella, Napoli

Artifex colors


1923

Unlike other cities, the historic center of Naples has kept alive a craft : The making of leather gloves. This took advantage of the presence of a strong regional industry of tanning and dyeing (called University of leather), has meant that Naples is called the "World Capital of the glove," before, to date, still holds.

Known since the eighteenth century, this production really took off beginning of the next century. The presence of the Bourbon court in the capital of Kingdom of Two Sicilies has contributed significantly to the worldwide development of this product already known for its beauty and quality.

Omega, Napoli

Artifex colors


1923

Omega was founded in 1923. At fourth generation the company still manages to create through the gloves selection of the best skins "full bloom" dyes by Immersion (not covered/ patent) cut by hand for better fit and lined silk or cashmere gloves (100%) of superior quality. There is a great synergy between experience and technique.

A couple of gloves, manufactured in traditional way is the subject of 25 tasks ranging from cutting to finishing. These steps, all done by hand categorically, are mostly made at home or in homes.

Omega, Napoli

Contemporary in colors

carbonemcontemporaryincolors

2013

Academy of Fine arts in Naples, Italy. 1752-2013

Academy of Fine Arts, Naples

Academy of Fine Arts, Naples


2013

Students of Fashion Design

Students project work.

Fashion Photograph

y

New talents for young students


2013



Fashion design

Circus Collection

By Viola Russo



2013



Fashion design

Presentation of 90s

collection

By Claudia Piroscafo Cazzato



2013



Fashion design

Presentation of

Baroque collection

By Elena Soria



2013



Fashion design

Presentation of

Minimalism collection

By Irene Scarpato



2013



Fashion design

Presentation of

Hokusai collection

By Annamaria Ruocco



2013



Fashion design

Accessories

collection

By Carmine Dell’Anno



2013


The colors of student

are... ...Exciting colors

New style and new models


2013

...new colors

...critical approaches

sustainability...

...significance of fashion

bridge between craft and industry...

well being...

well doing…The only color that can inspire today is the natural color or the color of sustainability! We have new model to follow as recycle, reuse, redesign, sustainable fabrications, diversion of waste materials from landfill, fair trade and community development.

...fair trade label

These are the color of new generation of fashion designer but not about boring beige T-shirts or scratchy, drawstring pajama-style pants, but fun, playful, ethereal, cerebral, intelligent design

New style and new models


2013

...new colors

Goffrey B. Small

http://www.geoffreybsmall.net/

Riedizioni http://www.riedizioni.com/

Sigrid Astrup http://www.sigridastrup.com

From somewher http://www.fromsomewhere.co.uk.

Formafantasma http://www.formafantasma.com

One of the strongest trends for designers is the expression of ecological, social and community consciousness through for-profit fashion design corporations, which most recently have moved upscale from organic cotton T-shirts and hippy-ish drawstring pants to high fashion. There is now a wide range of companies offering well designed merchandise, from one-off art,

Yoj http://www.fashionyoj.com

recycled and redesigned clothing, organic and sustainable textiles and garment production, to a range of community and indigenous support cooperatives bridging the gap between traditional craft and high fashion.The company in this slide are some sample of design and fashion suistainable.



http://www.riedizioni.com/

http://www.riedizioni.com/

http://www.sigridastrup.com/

http://www.fromsomewhere.co.uk/

http://www.formafantasma.com/

http://www.fashionyoj.com/

Brief to remember…


2013

AcknowledgmentsThank you to:

Carmine Dell’Anno Melania De RosaZaira de Vincentiis Claudia Piroscafo CazzatoMarinellaArianna RazzanoToty Ruggieri Roberta RuggieroAnnamaria RuoccoViola RussoMariangela SalvatiIrene ScarpatoElena SoriaMauro Squillace

presentazione italian fashion

Education

colors history

art of lace

colors blue

colors inspiration

fashion lace

oldest art

embroideredneedle lace

naples lecture