putting all your eggs in one basket · anatomy of the egg • weight of an average egg is ~2 ounces...

Putting All Your Eggs in One BasketMaegan Perdue

Agent Associate-Agriculture

Anatomy of the Egg

https://extension.illinois.edu/eggs/res16-egg.html

Anatomy of the Egg• Weight of an average egg is ~2 ounces

• 11% shell• 58% egg white• 31% egg yolk

• Edible portion of the egg is composed mostly of water• Whole egg

• 74% water, 13% protein, 11% fat• Egg White

• 88% water, 11% protein• Egg yolk

• 48% water, 17% protein, 33% fat

https://extension.illinois.edu/eggs/res16-egg.html

Egg Nutrition Facts

https://www.eggnutritioncenter.org/egg-nutrition-facts-panels/

Where Do Eggs Come From?• The functioning ovary

contains all the undeveloped yolks a hen will ever have!

• Once mature, the yolk will be released from the oviduct during ovulation.

https://www.fsis.usda.gov/wps/wcm/connect/1f13a3dd-8931-4d5a-af1b-597917db353e/03-Biology-Eggs.pdf?MOD=AJPERES

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Where Do Eggs Come From?• The yolk then enters an assembly line

(the oviduct) to add the rest of the components to the egg!

• Enters the infundibulum-fertilizations occurs here (15 minutes)

• Passes to the magnum-albumen is formed and added (3 hours)

• Enters the isthmus-membranes, water and minerals are (1-1 ¼ hours)

• Enters the uterus-water, shell and pigments (if colored) are added (21 hours)


Jacquie Jacob, University of Kentucky

Where Do Eggs Come From?

• Once the egg is fully formed, the uterus releases the egg to the vagina and the cloaca and it is released through the vent. The cuticle is added during the laying process.


The Laying Hen• The best egg laying breeds are typically lightweight• Pullets will start laying eggs at about 18 to 22 weeks

• Eggs will start small and production is sporadic

• Egg laying breeds can produce as many as 280 eggs a year• Hen lay the largest quantity during their first year of production• Meat breeds lay significantly less eggs per year than layers

• Hens will typically molt after they have been laying for a year• After the molt, eggs will be larger; however quantity declines each

year.

Laying Hen Nutrition• Overweight and underweight hens lay smaller

eggs and less than hens in good body condition.• Hens should be fed a layer ration once they reach

laying age• Commercial laying rations will be balanced with the

nutrients the hens need• About 16% protein• Balanced calcium and phosphorus

• Hens should be fed free choice• Eat to meet their nutritional needs

• Offer oyster shells free choice• Source of calcium

Laying Hen Nutrition• Access to pasture

• Allows them to forage for insects and grasses• Obtain very little nutrition from pasture• Most of the nutrition comes from insects, which are

usually limited in number• Provides exercise

• Prevents boredom• Caution: may leave them more vulnerable to

predators

Laying Hen Nutrition• For smaller flocks, it is often most economical and

efficient to buy commercial laying hen feed.• Balanced with correct amount of nutrients for the

stage of production

• If raising layers on a larger scale, work with a poultry nutrionist or poultry extension specialist to develop a feeding program tailored for the operation.

• May include custom mixed feed• Take into account pastured hens vs. confined• Customized to maximize production and profit

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Water• Eggs are over 70% water!• Water is critical for egg production• Always provide plenty of fresh water to laying hens• Layers will drink at least double the amount of water as non layers!• Dehydration will cause hens to stop laying• Water must be clean and free from excessive minerals

• Excessive minerals can act as antagonists to other important minerals• May affect the taste

• Provide access to fresh water in the winter months • Fresh, not frozen

Factors Affecting the Laying Cycle• Light

• Hens may stop laying when the hours of daylight starts decreasing in the fall & molt • Can trick hens to keep laying by providing artificial light• Hens need at least 6 hours of darkness in order to rest• Pullets reaching laying age in the fall may lay through the winter

• Breed• Laying hen breeds lay more eggs than dual purpose and meat breeds

• Age • The quantity of eggs laid per year decreases as the hen ages

• Nutrition • Inadequate energy may cause reduced egg production• Cold weather increases a hen’s need for energy

• Stress• Environmental-predators, weather, movement, etc.• Disease

Health Problem for Layers

Internal Parasites• Types

• Roundworms (Ascarids), Hairworms (Capillaria), Cecal worms (Heterakis), Tapeworms (Cestodes)

• Signs• Unthriftiness, stunted growth, emaciation, anemia and decreased egg production

• Treatment and Prevention• Rotate birds in yards or pens • Deworm flocks regularly, particularly those raised on the ground or in floor pens • Provide medicated feed (containing broad-spectrum dewormer) • Treat infected birds with the proper dewormer – Piperazine (Wazine™) is

the only dewormer approved for use in poultry by the FDA but is effective only against roundworms and cecal worms

N.L. Tablante

External Parasites• Types

• Scaly leg mite (Knemidocoptes mutans), Chicken mite (Dermanyssus gallinae), Northern fowl mite (Ornithonyssus sylviarum)

• Signs• Scaly leg mite: – scales and crusts in legs, combs, and wattles • Northern fowl mite: – blackened feathers, scabby skin around vent

• Treatment and Prevention• Scaly leg mite

• Cull or isolate affected birds • Apply an oil-based product such as petroleum jelly, a 50:50 kerosene and cooking oil mix, or Blue Ribbon™ (a commercial

mixture of plant oils, canola, and camphor) to affected areas • Northern fowl mite

• Monitor all birds and facilities for infestation; check egg flats and cases for mites• Treat birds with approved insecticide (such as carbaryl or Sevin™) • Use dry powder to dust birds • Use liquid spray or wettable powder for walls and floors to penetrate cracks and crevices • Wash plastic flats and racks with hot water and detergent

N.L. TablanteFollow manufacturer’s directions and observe withdrawal periods!

Bumblefoot• Cause

• Injury to the lower surface of the foot and subsequent infection with Staphylococcus bacteria• Common causes of injury:

• Rough perches, splinters, wire floors, poor litter or bedding quality

• Signs• Lameness, swelling of the foot pad, hard, pus-filled abscess on foot pad

• Prevention• Provide good quality litter or bedding. Keep bedding clean, dry, and deep. Keep perches less than

18 inches from the floor to prevent foot damage due to impact from jumping. Remove potential sources of injury such as sharp objects and/or surfaces.

• Treatment• Soak foot in warm water and Epsom salts. Clean affected area with soap and warm water, then

disinfect with alcohol. If skin is open, drain pus from abscess (If there is no break in the skin to allow drainage of abscess, use a sterile scalpel or sharp end of a disinfected blade to cut a small opening). Flush the abscess cavity with hydrogen peroxide to clean out pus and debris. Pack the cavity with antibiotic ointment and wrap the foot with gauze and elastic bandage. Repeat daily until foot heals.

N.L. Tablante

https://extension.umn.edu/poultry-health/

Prolapse• Causes

• Overweight hens• Egg production in immature pullets• Unbalanced rations• Double yolk egg production

• Signs• Blood streaked eggs• Uterus remains inverted and outside the vent• Cannibalism by other chickens

• Prevention• Don’t photo stimulate immature pullets (need to be appropriate weight)• Feed a balanced diet• Avoid light intensity that is too high• Decrease feed consumption if flock is producing too many double yolk eggs

• Treatment• Treatment is not likely to be successful

• Low intensity red bulbs- hens less attracted to prolapses• Gently massage prolapse back inside• Isolate affected hens

https://articles.extension.org/pages/65423/prolapse-in-poultry-kept-in-small-and-backyard-flocks

https://extension.umn.edu/poultry-health/diseases-small-poultry-flocks#cloacal-prolapse--1509517

Egg Binding• Causes

• Egg is stuck in oviduct• Overweight hens, large eggs, calcium deficiency or disease can contribute to

an egg getting stuck.• Signs

• Lethargy, straining, swollen abdomen, swollen vent, death• Treatment

• Contact a veterinarian• Carefully palpate to feel for the egg and try to get it out• Warm the muscles to the vent to help them relax• Carefully puncture the egg and remove contents**You must be careful so that you do injure the hen; however, leaving her untreated will send her into shock and result in death!

Bad Eggs• An occasional odd-shaped, bloody or wrinkled

egg or missing shell may not indicate a problem.

• Too many “bad” eggs may indicate health problems

• Diseases• Stress• Poor nutrition• Age

giphy.com

https://go.alltech.com/hubfs/Egg%20Shell%20Quality%20Poster_V1-2.pdf?fbclid=IwAR1gP9zq7jWee4rQKw6ic9BeLHtj8OPTYjIRCen81iSki1scehd5IF1xjP4

Behavioral Problems

Egg Breaking• Form of cannibalism• Signs include broken eggs in the nest or yolk on the face• Remove the perpetrators ASAP-will teach this behavior to others

• Cull• Isolate and put a fake egg in her nest

• Prevention• Don’t feed eggs to chickens• Crush any egg shells so hens don’t recognize them• Put fake eggs in the nests-can’t break them• Choose less aggressive breeds• Don’t hatch chicks from aggressive hens

Broodiness• Some breeds are more prone to brood than others• Signs include: not leaving the nest and being very

protective of the nest• Discourage broodiness by:

• Removing eggs• Remove hen from nest

• Put the hen in a different pen if necessary• Block hen from returning to the nest or destroy the

nest

Broodiness• If all else fails, let hen set a few fertile eggs

• Some hens will set on an empty nest and won’t leave without a live chick!

• If you need replacement hens, give the broody hens some fertile eggs from hens you want replacements!

• Cull persistently broody hens• Broody hens aren’t laying eggs

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Molting• Normal process that occurs after a hen has been

laying for one year• Hens lose their feathers and replace with new• Usually happens as the days shorten• Good layers may molt late• Will generally stop laying during a normal molt• Can be caused by disease or stress• Usually normal molts are not a problem, but may

need to take additional measures during a cold snap if the hen has a lot of missing feathers!

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Layers vs. Laziness• Lazy hens that are not laying are still eating and taking up valuable

space• Don’t try to cull non layers during a molt• Good layers look like they’ve been working hard

• Rough feathers• Bleached skin• Large combs

Layers vs. LazinessGood Layer Poor Layer

J. Moyle

Layers vs. Laziness

J. Moyle

Good Layer Poor Layer

Layers vs. Laziness

J. Moyle


Measure how many fingers fit between the pubic bones?If you can't fit 3 or more, then she is not laying.

More is better.

Layers vs. Laziness

J. Moyle


Measure how many fingers fit between the keel and the pubic bones?If you can't fit 4 or more then she is not laying. More is better,

should be soft not firm.

Getting Eggs in the Basket

Nest boxes• Encourages hens to lay eggs where you can find them• 12 in. x 12 in. x 12 in. for most hens

• Large hens may need larger nest boxes

• One nest box for every 4-6 hens• Several hens will likely lay in the same nest

• Boxes should be sturdy and in a shaded area• Hens prefer privacy

Nest boxes• Place indestructible fake eggs in nests to encourage hens to lay• Do not place under a roost

• Nests will fill with manure from roosting birds

• Use good bedding• Change regularly or if soiled• Hens prefer soft spots to lay eggs• Keeps eggs clean• Prevents breakage

• Put nest boxes in areas that are safe from predators!

Collecting Eggs• Collect eggs at least once a day,

preferably twice a day• Collecting more often prevents eggs from

getting dirty or damaged by other hens

• Avoid cracking the eggs while collecting them

• Use an egg basket or effective alternative

• Promptly clean mildly dirty eggs• Wipe with a cloth or use a sanding pad

Collecting Eggs• Search for hidden eggs

• Hens that are not confined may hide their eggs

• Look in dark corners, hay sheds or the garden!

• Discard contaminated or damaged eggs

• Do not feed to chickens or other animals that may develop a taste for eggs!

Cleaning and Storing Eggs for Consumption• Clean slightly dirty eggs

• Rub with fine sand paper • Carefully wash with drinkable water

• Water must be at least 90°F and 20°F warmer than the eggs to prevent bacteria from entering through the pores of the shell.

• Use only detergents that are approved for washing eggs• Do not submerge eggs in water• Rinse with a sanitizer after washing (1/2 oz. household bleach mixed with 1 gallon of

water)• Dry eggs immediately after washing• Never wash eggs that have been sanded• Washing eggs removes the protective cuticle that keeps bacteria from

entering the egg

https://mda.maryland.gov/foodfeedquality/Documents/eggsafetyforsmallproducers.pdf

Cleaning and Storing Eggs for Consumption• Place in clean cartons

• Avoid cross contamination• Store pointed end down

• Store at or below 45°F• Shelf life is 30-40 days under refrigeration• Frozen eggs can be stored up to one year

https://mda.maryland.gov/foodfeedquality/Documents/eggsafetyforsmallproducers.pdf

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Selling Eggs• Check with your state Dept. of Agriculture for regulations regarding

selling or giving away eggs for human consumption, animal consumption and/or incubation.

• Regulations may include:• Flock registration• Salmonella testing• Grading and sizing• Adherence to storage guidelines• Packaging

• Labeling with flock registration number, lot number, grade, size, seller information, safe handling statements, etc. may be required on the cartons.

Questions?Maegan PerdueUniversity of Maryland Extension-Worcester County305 Bank Street PO Box 219Snow Hill, MD [email protected]

The University of Maryland Extension programs are open to all and will not discriminate against anyone because of race, age, sex, color, sexual orientation, physical or mental disability, religion, ancestry, or natural origin, marital status, genetic information, political affiliation, or gender identity and expression.

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