quality manual to finish

8/13/2019 Quality Manual to Finish

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QUALITY TRAINING MANUAL

LEISURE TEXTILES

CMT UNIT


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Garment Factory

A garment factory is a workplace where fabric is converted to garments of different types

(shirt, trouser, coat, skirt, jacket etc.) on large scale in the most efficient manner.

The production departments in a garment factory are:

abric stores: !ere the incoming fabric is stored, checked and issued to cutting

"utting #oom: This is the department where the fabric is cut into the different

parts of a garment. The fabric is first spread in the form of lays and then cut using

a straight knife. These cut parts are then issued to the sewing department

$ewing #oom: %n this department, the cut parts from the cutting room are fed andthey undergo a series of operations on sewing machines in a specific se&uence to

join different parts to form a garment.

inishing #oom: The output of the sewing room, garments, are fed in the

finishing room where they are ironed and packed to give it a presentable format.

After packing, the garments are packed in cartons in the pre defined &uantity.

'acked goods store: %n this department, the packed goods are stored and later

dispatched to its final destination.

abric #eceived

a in "uttin #ela in

*undlin

$ewin

Thread Trimmin

%ronin

%ns ection

oldin

'resentation "heck

'ackin +"arton

abric $tores

$ewing #oom

"utting #oom

inishing #oom

'acked oods


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et us try and understand what &uality means.

What is Quality?

The word &uality has multiple meanings. Two of those critical meanings are

Product performance: Product Satifaction

%n the sense of performance, &uality refers to the performance features of a product. $uch

features compete with each other in the market place. "ustomers, especially ultimate

users, compare the competing performances. Their comparisons then become a factor in

deciding whose product will be bought. *ecause of the competition in the market place, a

primary goal for product performance is to be e&ual or superior to the &uality of

competing products.

!reedom from deficiencie: Product "iatifaction

The word &uality also refers to freedom from deficiencies i.e. no defects, which take

many forms as late deliveries, customer claims and returns, high rate of rework and even

cancellation of sales. These collectively are forms of product dissatisfaction.

-uality may also be defined as meeting the customers re&uirements and specifications.

#$% i Qua&it% Important'

%n most cases one employee that produces bad &uality can greatly affect sales for a

company. A study in the /.$. showed that an average individual will probably spend

about 012,222 through his life buying from one brand that he is comfortable with. 3ost

sales are repeat sales so you can potentially loose about 012,222 of business if this

customer suddenly becomes unsatisfied. %n the production floor it is sometimes hard to

imagine that one skipped stitch can cause customer dissatisfaction. % urge you to consider

the following situation:

A group of musicians are being directed by a young man. They perform in the large

living room of a rich and influential businessman. A large group of spectators fills the

4


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room. The tall musician is wearing a white shirt and black slacks made in the factory. At

the end of the presentation, as he turns around and bows in front of the audience, he feels

that the slacks are a little tight but thinks nothing of it. As he bows he feels the stretch and

suddenly5..####%'. 6 months before in the factory the operator sewing the seat seam

didnt think a skipped stitch was a big deal. 6 months later it was7

'lease recogni8e that if something is not as specified, it is defective.

Defects are a waste!

ets see what happens to defective garments in the factory:

%f a defective unit is found you have two possibilities: That it can be repaired, that it

cant. $econds are sold by the factory at a loss. /nits to be repaired are also an e9tra cost

because e9tra costs are incurred in

!andling the unit before repair

9tra labour and materials in repairing 9tra handling to get it back with the first goodsThe time consumed on repairing defective goods can always be used to produce more

first class goods. %n all cases defective units are e9tra costs for the factory. ;


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Total > ?4.C9B?1.C9

'ossibility of a garment after alteration to fall in different category of @G, alteration and

rejection is given below.

@.G. 'ieces : 12H

Alteration 'ieces : ?CH

#ejected 'ieces : ?CH

#epairing an Alteration (with 12H accuracy) takes avg. ?C times the time spent on

making a fresh garment.

Let. undertand t$e concept of cutomer *etter:

A customer is the entity receiving a service or product from our work. This entity can be

the ne9t process in line, it can be the boss, and it can be a fellow worker.

et us illustrate this with an e9ample of a short production line:

"uttings customer is $ewing, $ewings is %nspect, and receivings customer is "utting.

%f there is a &uality problem in "utting this will translate into problems in $ewing,

%nspect, and inishing. A very true American slogan is that most systems behave the

following way:

Garbage in Garbage Out

%n other words you need to have good &uality materials coming in to have good &uality

goods at the end. %f you apply this to every process in the system you get the foundation

of Total -uality "ontrol. very process is a system in itself where incoming &uality will

determine outgoing &uality. ood &uality needs to come out of every process in order for

C

Sewing Inspect FinishingCuttingReceiving


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every process to produce good &uality. -uality needs to be built into every process of the

system to ensure results at the end.

Ie could waste our resources in trying to guarantee &uality by inspecting finished goods

and eliminating those that seem to de defective. %n this factory we are not going to do

this.

Ie should spend our energy preventing the defects and guaranteeing &uality at every step

of the process through effective planning and controls. !ow do we define preventionJ

Iell Iebsters dictionary defines it appropriately by stating that to prevent is ;5to act

in anticipation of an event5to keep from happeningK make impossible by prior action..=

Ie will succeed with well planned action.

There are usual causes of defects:

? The pecificationwas not clear Eobody understood what wasre&uired

The procewas not capable


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Concept of "/U 0"efect per $undred unit1

units itself amongst the sample of hundred units. This implies that if hundred shirts arebeing checked and seven shirts are found to be defective with presence of two defects in

each of the seven, then the

but with a logic being behind it. The catching of the defects is done with the motive that

they will be corrected, and in terms of corrections it is the Ldefects, which we will need

to correct, immaterial of whether these defects are spread across many garments or one.

!ence, it is important to record the defects rather than the defective garments, at least up

till the finishing stage. @nce the garment is finally ready after the finishing, it makes

sense to record the defective garments rather than the

matters to the buyer.

Eumber of defects found 9 ?22 + Total pieces checked

A

%t is a simple measure that everyone can understand

%t focuses on what has gone wrong, &uantifies it and therefore points to the areas

of greatest need or priority

%t can be used to compare performance of different lines on different products

over time

Let u ta2e an e3amp&e and undertand t$e concept of "/U *etter,

Cae I

@perator

@peration

Eoof'ieces'roduced

Eoof'ieces"hecked

Eoofdefe


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ctivep

ieces

Ai

$a

Co&&a

r

!ini

$

455 455 6

7

'''''

Ra$

ee&a

Side

Seam

455 455 8

7

'''''

Ca&cu&ate t$e defecti)e 9 and tate $o i a *etter operator,

F


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Cae II

@perator

@peration

Eoof'iec

es'roduced

Eoof'iec

es"hecked

Eo

ofdefects

Ai$

a

Co&&a

r!ini

$

455 455 4

7

'''''

Ra$

ee&a

Side

Seam

455 455 8

;

'''''

No ca&cu&ate t$e "/U and tate $o t$e *etter operator i,

T$u it i imperati)e t$at e ca&cu&ate t$e "/U and not defecti)e 9,

Every efect will result in one efective but it is not necessary that every efective will

result in only one efect one efective may have more than one efect"

6

$kip $titch

*roken $titch

6 "efect< "efecti)e


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AQL: Accepta*&e Qua&it% Le)e&

The A- system defines a minimum acceptable number of defects that can be shipped in

an order.

The A- is a designated value of percent defective that the customer indicates will be

accepted most of the time by the acceptance sampling procedures to be used. The A- is

generally e9pressed in percentage and most widely used in apparel industry are .C, .2

and D.C.

The Acceptable -uality evel (A-) establishes a ma9imum allowable error rate or

variation from the standard. Testing will stop immediately if the failure rate of the

product being tested e9ceeds the minimum Acceptable -uality evel.

The following table summari8es the A- and the sampling plan as per the lost si8e.

Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re

2 to 8 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2

9 to 15 3 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2

16 to 25 5 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2

26 to 50 8 0 1 1 2 1 2 2 351 to 90 13 1 2 1 2 2 3 3 4

91 to 150 20 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6

151 to 280 32 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 8

281 to 500 50 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11

501 to 1200 80 5 6 7 8 10 11 14 15

1201 to 3200 125 7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22

3201 to 10000 200 10 11 14 15 21 22 21 22

10001 to 35000 315 14 15 21 22 21 22 21 22

6.5 10.0

Lot Size Sample Size

2.5 4.0

ot si8e refers to the total number of pieces to undergo inspection. $ample si8e is the

number of pieces to be checked and this sample is selected randomly. ;Ac= denotes the

ma9imum number of defectives that will be accepted for the sample and ;#e= denotes the

minimum number of defectives if found will cause the audit to fail.

?2


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To understand the above table, assume a lot si8e of D22 garments and A- of .2H, so

now in table, the lot si8e indicates the sample si8e of F2. The auditor will then inspect all

F2 garments and if the number of defectives found is 1 or less, the entire lot is accepted.

!owever, if the number of defective found is F or more, the entire lot is rejected at A-

.2.

??


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#eisure $e%tiles& Quality 'ontrol (roceures

Qua&it% Procedure durin+ !a*ric Inpection

;-uality first= products re&uire &uality piece goods+fabric. ven the most outstanding

manufacturing methods cannot compensate for defective input at the first stage itself. The

fabric inspection will ensure the &uality by following the point system of fabric

checking to ensure the ma9imum efficiency in subse&uent operations.

%mportant things to be considered in $tores:

Always store the fabric in clean, moisture free environment.

The fabric should be checked as soon as possible after it is inBhouse.

T$e !our Point S%tem

The fourBpoint system is widely accepted in the te9tile and garment trade because it is

easy to understand and implement. This system also lays down standards that have

proven to be acceptable in the garment trade and it is recommended by most companies

for checking fabric.

abric &uantity to inspect

At least ?2H of the total fabric received to be inspected

or a shipment+ order of up to 22 yards of fabric, it is recommended that

inspection should be carried for ?22H piece goods

or a shipment above 22 yards inspection should be done for at least 22 yards

or ?2H whichever is greater.

Se&ection of Ro&&

At least one roll of each colour+shade+lot (even if it e9ceeds ?2H of the total fabric)

should be selected. %n case more than one roll per colour is to be checked, then select the

number in proportion to the number of total rolls per colour received.

?


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"efect C&aification

The fourBpoint system classifies defects as shown in the following table:

Len+t$ of "efect= eit$er &en+t$ or idt$ Pena&t% Point4 %nches or less ? 'oint

@ver 4, but not over D inches 'oints

@ver D, but not over 6 inches 4 'oints

@ver 6 inches 'oints

/o&e and openin+

? inch or less points

@ver ? inch 'oints

A ma9imum of points is assigned to one linear yard.

or "efect: A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would cause

the item to be a Lsecond.

Minor "efect: A defect that would not cause the product to be termed a second

either because of severity or location.

Ihen inspecting piece goods prior to cutting, it is necessary to rate &uestionable

defects as major, since the %nspector will not know where the defect may occur on

the item.

Eo penalty points are recorded for minor defects. 3ajor


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Acceptance Point Count

This method of acceptance uses a projection of total defects based on the number of

defects found in an inspection of a sample. or e9ample:

The points are calculated on a ?22 s&uare yards basis. To calculate the average points+?22

s&uare yards, the formula is:

Total points counted 9 4D 9 ?22'oints per ?22 s&uare yards >

Total yards inspected 9 "uttable width (inches)

Up to 40 points per 100 suare yar!s are the accepta"le !e#ect rate$

-t$er conideration for re>ection:

Any noticeable shading within the roll

@ff shade fabric

!and feel not to standard

"ritical defects running for more than yards

All major defects running for more than yards in the fabric should be cut out

'attern repeat not to standard or unacceptable variations

Appearance not to standard or objectionable

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The format to be used for piece good inspection is e9plained below.Piece Goods Inspection Report

Date 18th a!ch Fa"!ic Supp#ie! $% Inv&Cha##an 'u("e! $%&C%&2 %ota# )a!*s Inspecte* 43 +oints&100 s,- .a!* 25-9

Inspecte* /. /C St.#e 'o-&+ 'o- 2800 %ota# Ro##s Receive* 30 %ota# +ena#t. +oints 21 ccept&Reect ccepte*

Roll Colour !idt" S"ade#o. Lot #o. Re, ctua# n !o## ctua# $i%%.

in a )&'

a a c * c e e

&a'ric C"ec(er &a'ric Store In C"ar)e

a* +ole,earCut '* Slu's c* Contamination d* Soil-il Stain e* issin) /arn %* $ou'le /arn )* -t"ers

Points Per 100 S. /ards ,otal Penalt Points 3 100 3 46

,otal /ards Inspected 3 &a' !idt" inc"

Len)t"

2 4

+ole,earCut

" "

69 45 43 '4 hite 68 66

pto 3 inch 3 inch6 inchpto 1: o!e than 1:

Comments

&a'ric $e%ects

,otal

Points

Points

Per 100

S. /ards

6 inch9 inch ve! 9 inch

1 2 3 4

25-921 ccepte*

%ate& Inspecte! "y& Fa"ric supplier& 'hallan Nu("er& )urchase *r!er& TotalRolls Receive!& Total Yar!s Inspecte!+All self e9planatory ,tyle: As all orders are tracked through style number it is important to mention thestyle number, this continues through the entire order processing Total penalty points+$ummation of the total points assigned for each rollK totalpoints is the fre&uency of the number of defects multiplied by penalty pointsdepending on the length+diameter of defect (a 9 M b 9 M 4 9 ? M 4 9 > ?) )oints per hun!re! suare yar!s+ Average number of points per hundred s&uareyards of fabric checkedK calculated with the formula at bottom of format Accept-Re.ect ,hip(ent+3ark according to the desired &uality standards

Roll Nu("er+Eumber of roll being inspected, selection of rolls should be made ase9plained above 'olour: "olour of roll being inspected at least two hundred yards or ten percent,which ever is more, should be inspected in each colour /i!th: Iidth of the roll ordered and ma9imum and minimum width of the rollsinspected (measured at regular intervals) Lenth: ength of the roll as marked on the roll by the supplier and actual lengthas observed during the inspection in yards ,ha!e %i##: 3arked as yes if there is a shade variation in the roll from either startto end or from selvedge to selvedge %e#ect Marin+ach defect when observed on the fabric is measured and then acode of the defect as mentioned on the bottom of the format is marked on thecorresponding column classified by length of defect.

?C


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"efect Litin+

Identification of !a*ric "efect

@ften fabric checkers who check the fabric are not trained and are unaware of the nature

of fabric defects and their causes. Thus, there is a chance that the fabric checker does not

notice a defect at all. This is augmented by the fact that these checkers check fabric every

day and their eyes become so accustomed to the colour + design of the fabric that there is

a high probability of them not noticing certain defects. %t is thus imperative that these

checkers should have ready actual samples of these defects. The easiest way to make this

reference guide is to collect various defects in fabrics as and when they occur. Appendi9

A refers to a similar reckoner with samples.

?D


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Qua&it% Procedure in t$e Cuttin+ Area

The first stage in the manufacture of garments is the cutting of materials into the

necessary pattern shapes. These are then joined together by means of seams to createthreeBdimensional garments. Ihere large &uantities of a garment style must be cut, a lay

is created which consists of many plies of fabric spread one above the other. rom this,

all the garment pieces for all the si8es that have been planned for that lay are cut. The

pattern shapes for these garments may be drawn on a paper marker placed on top of the

lay, or information as to their shape and position may be held within a computer, to be

plotted similarly on a paper marker or used to drive an automatic cutter.

%n cutting it is important to inspect &uality at every stage for good &uality. or good

sewing it is important to start with good &uality cutting.


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Cuttin+ Room Termino&o+%

'ly: %t is one single layer of fabric spread over a specified length out of which

garments are cut.

ay+"ut: A number of ply (plies) put together form a lay which is then cut to get

bulk garment parts.

*akers trolley: A wheeled rack used to transport cut parts in the section and to

sewing room.

*and knife: An end less blade vertical knife, around which the work is moved

over the large cutting table.

*ias: L"ut on the bias N cut at an angle to both the warp and the weft of the cloth,at C degree.

*owing: A fault in cloth in which the weft is not straight across the piece but has

curve.

ayout (pattern layout): The geometrical layout of the pattern pieces in a garment,

which is cut around to produce the parts of the garment.

3arker: A piece of paper, cloth etc. representing the layout.

@ne way spreading: /sed for directional fabric where the pile (direction) is

re&uired to lie in the same direction on all the plies.

%t is important in such a case to ensure that all garment parts are also in one

direction only in the marker.

Eotch: A small cut+burnt mark into the part which aids the location during

assembly by indicating to the operator some re&uirement for matching with other

notches or positions in the garment.

$hading: 3eans colour in cloth. %t is commonly used to imply that a particular

bit+roll of cloth is different in shade from another bit.

?F


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"utting #oom %nspection #eport is used to identify and minimi8e defects during layering

and after the pieces have been cut.

Cutting Roo(; InspectionRepo!tDate ; 18&03&07

< St.#e ; 2800 Sp!ea*e!; ,eam 1 Inspecte* ".; Su(ai!a

Cut 'o ; 02 Cutte!; .=

Sp!ea*ing Inspection;

'o- o +#ies a!>e! a. Si=es a!>e* Speciie* $ength ctua# $ength'o- o

+a!ts&?(t%ota# 'o o

+a!ts## +a!ts +!esent

#ign(entDeects

Chec>s atching

84 4 S&2@ &2 90A 92A 6 24 )es 'o '

Cut +a!t Inspection ; Si=e Ba 'otch&D!i## o#e B" the!s Bc

Deects %op i**#e /otto( issing$ocationw!ong

Depthw!ong

#ign(entBChec>s & St!ipes

Re(a!>s

+a!ts

1 F!ont 11 1 1 1

2 /ac> 1 1

3 S#eeve

4 F!ont +#ac>et

5 Co##a!

6 Cu

7 +oc>et

8 %ape

9 Ri"

10 oon patch

11

12

13

14

,otal 3 1 1 1 1

%ota# Deects E Ba " & 3 c E E 7&3E 2-33

D E %ota# Deects B G'o- o pa!ts pe! g(t B E E2-33 6 & 2 E 7

'o o +a!ts Inspecte* B

@nly after the lay and cut parts have been inspected they should be forwarded for

numbering. @nce the lay is spread, the marker spread on it and ready for cutting, the

checker goes and inspects the lay and only if it is approved, the lay is put forward for

cutting.

%ate+ $elf e9planatory ,tyle+$tyle number given by the buyer ,prea!er+Eame+Eumber of the team spreading Inspecte! "y+Eame of the cutting checker conducting the audit 'ut No$: #efers to the number of the lay in the style 'utter+Eame of the cutter who has cut the lay

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This format is further subBdivided into two parts

Spreadin+ Inpection

No$ o# )lies+This is to check the number of plies present in the lay as against the

lay order report. $o it also acts as a guideline to check that e9cess plies are notspread. or this the checker has to physically count the number of plies in the layat both ends. Marer 2ay+This is to check that the marker is placed on the grain line, fabricdirection is right and number of pieces marked is according as per the marker. %tshould be mention how many garments are placed on the marker e$$ way +waymarker. ,i3es Mare!+ $pecify the si8es in the ratio to be marked. ,peci#ie! Lenth+ $pecified length of the lay (marker length M buffer) Actual Lenth+3arker length is as per the specification, to be measured from oneend of the lay to the other. This is to ensure fabric is not wasted. No o# parts-ar(ent+ This is the total number of parts per garment for that style(for e9ample one front, one back, two sleeves, one placket and one moon patch >D parts per garment). Appendi9 * details out the various parts in a garment. Total no$ o# parts+Eumber of garment parts that are to be present on the marker(number of parts per garment 9 si8es marked). All parts present+"omparison of parts that should be in marker (from total no. ofparts) and those present on the marker. This is to check that no parts are missingas per re&uirements. !ere it is also important to check that all parts have the rightinformation on the marker including the style number, part name, grain line etc. Alin(ent !e#ects+This is to check all parts are on grain line, no pieces areoverlapped and all plies in the lay are aligned properly from one side. 'hec (atchin+$pecifically for checks or stripes. To check the garment has allparts matching and the completed garment would have no matching problems.e.g. matching of stripes+checks.

Cut Part Inpection

After the lay has been cut, the cutting checker checks each part cut in the lay for all si8es

(4 plies of each partB top, middle and bottom for some defects and entire lay for others).

The checker marks a ;?= for every defect found and ;2= for the every defect free piece. %t

is important to note that all parts being cut should be inspected before the cut is passed by

the checker.

)arts+ist of all parts present in the marker. The above listing is for all parts in apolo shirt.

2


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%e#ects+o Si?e: The first and most important parameter which is checked after the

lay has been cut is the measurement or the si8e matching in top, middle

and bottom ply for each part. or this, the top, middle and bottom ply of

each part and each si8e in the lay is measured against the hard pattern and

for each defect a ;?= is put against the part name and ply position. This

helps us to take a corrective action before the cake is disturbed.

o Notc$e: !ere we check each part cut in the lay for the presence of

notches+burnt marks in the right location and right depth as in the pattern.

or this, the whole part is considered as one and for each notch in that part

a point is allocated. %t is very important to check that all notches are

present in the right place and right depth so that they are easily visible

while sewing. $amples of correct and incorrect notches are attached as

Appendi9 ".

o -t$er: These include other cutting defects like frayed edges, fused edges

etc. A few samples of other sewing defects are attached as Appendi9


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Cut Audit Report

*efore the cut parts are issued to the sewing room, they are audited by the &uality

checker once all the processes in the cutting are over. The cutting room checker prepares

"ut Audit #eport based on the A- chart, as this is an audit and not hundred percent

inspections. %t is important to note here that each si8e cut in the lay is separately audited.

or e9ample if the cut has the ratio $+?, 3+, +4, then there will be D different audits for

each si8e.

Cut Audit Report

$ate* 250407 Stle* PP8 Inspected '* A9C Accept

Cut #o* 4 Size* L:1 $+;* 2.88 Rec? atc"in) >d?

#o. #o. Ba## pa!ts B"ase* on H$ B"ase* on H$ Bo! (atching pa!ts0&1@ pe! g(t 0&1@ pe! pa!t 0&1@ pe! pa!t 0&1@ pe! g(t

1 $1 3 0 0 ' '

2 $1 6 0 0 ' '

3 $1 11 0 0 ' '

4 $1 15 0 0 ' '

5 $1 23 0 0 ' '

6 $1 34 0 0 ' '

7 $1 35 0 0 ' '

8 $1 57 0 0 ' '

9 $1 59 0 0 ' '

10 $1 61 1 0 ' '

11 $1 64 0 0 ' '

12 $1 66 0 1 ' '

13 $1 70 1 0 ' '

14

15

16

17

18

1920

21

22

S; 13 2 1

D E Ba " c *&Bno- o pieces chec>e* pa!ts&piece G 100 E 3K100&B13K8E 2-88

In case o secon* inspection@ p#ease (ention he!e ;

H anage! Cutting Incha!ge

Remar(s

Remar(s

-(


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%ate: $elf 9planatory ,tyle Nu("er+$tyle Eumber given by the buyer and being used for identificationin the factory Inspecte! "y+Eame of checker inspecting the cut 'ut Nu("er+%dentification number for the cut being inspected. %t is the same asthat recorded in the all the process in the cutting room. ,i3e+To check that si8e marked on the cut detail is same as the piece present. %U+

Inspection is use! only once #or each si3e$

)iece inspection+%n this section, the checker performs a &uality check on theselected parts and number of pieces as per A-. The various parameters checkedon all selected pieces are detailed below. $amples of all defects are attached asAppendi9 .

o S$ade @ariation:The checker takes out all parts for the ply number being

checked and ascertains if there is any shade variation in different parts of

the same garment. The checker assigns ;?= point if there is shade variation

in the ply number being checked and ;2= if no shade variation. 'oints are

assigned for the garment as a whole and not for individual parts. Also for

shade variation, checker will check all parts for the garment and not only

the ones selected as per A-.

o Notc$ Poition: or notch position, the checker places the selected parts

of the garment on the hard patterns and checks if the notches marked on

4


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the patterns are present in the part or not. The checker assigns ;?= point

for each part if the notch is missing or not right depth.

o !uin+:%n case if a part with fusing is selected by the checker for audit,

then he will assign ;?= point for fusing to be incorrect and ;2= if it is rightfor each part checked.

o Matc$in+:This is checked in case of stripe or check garments. %f the parts

being checked have a re&uirement for matching, then the checker will

assign ;?= point for the whole garment if the matching is inappropriate

and ;2= if it is @G.

Re(ar+Any $pecific remarks for the pieces checked Total !e#ects: As per the calculations shown in the format %U+ In case o# the cut-si3e "ein re.ecte! in the au!it an! a secon! au!it is con!ucte!& it is

(entione! one the report at the "otto( an! the re7au!it report (a!e on a ne2 #or(at

an! attache! 2ith the previous one$


25/45


%n addition to the above mentioned &uality checks, the checkers in the cutting room have

to check some more points during spreading and cutting process. These are summari8ed

below.

Spreadin+

$preading though not considered an important operation during garment manufacturing

and is normally carried out manually without the supervision of the cutting master, is a

critical checkpoint. The postB sewing measurement defects found in a garment can in

most cases be attributed to inBcorrect spreading and cutting. Ihile spreading, the &uality

checker to check the fabric lay for the following defects:

The side of the spread should be aligned.

The base marker+paper should be aligned parallel to the length of the table

The fabric laid should e9tend ?= outside of the marker (difference between marker

length and lay length)

The fabric laid should never be less than the markers width. The fabric width

should be at least ? to inches wider than the marker.

The spread fabric should be rela9ed, not stretched, and wrinkleBfree before

cutting.

Eo defective fabric should be laid unless there has been an official authori8ation.

nsure that the marker is not creased, damaged, or has overlapped parts.

The spreading checkers to inform the section supervisor of the irregularities in thespreading and ensures that corrective steps are taken.

C


26/45


Cuttin+

3arker lines should be followed. Oou can go out of the line by ?+F= ma9 but

never cut into the part. %n other words, you should always be able to see the

marker lines.

All notches should be located correctly with a depth.

The markers should be attached to the stack of parts with tape.

Ihen cutting care should be taken not to shift the stack of parts to a side or to cut

with the blade at an angle.

@ften changes are made to markers to adjust certain production problems. /nder

no circumstance should such an act be undertaken. %n case such a situation arises,all changes should be made in consultation with $ampling #oom+ &uality

inspectors. $hould there be any changes re&uired in the pattern+marker, a new

pattern and marker should be developed. /nder no circumstance should changes

be made on the same marker.

Inpection Guide&ine

Always try and inspect without disturbing the cut. This is essential in case the

particular piece has to be reBcut.


27/45


Qua&it% Procedure in t$e Sein+ Area

-uality


28/45


"ontinue to the ne9t operator selected randomly from the list of operators and

perform the inspection based on the approved sampling plan.

%f an operator has a bundle rejected then the ne9t three consecutive bundleswould

be checked by the -.", and would have to be passed in order that the red clip+flagis removed. These Lclearance bundles are inspected in the same fashion as the

earlier bundles. (Audit not ?22H inspection) %f, any one of these three do not get

passed then the #ed clip+flag remains, which means another three consecutive

bundles need to be checked. This forces the operator to improve upon her &uality

very &uickly, as a red clip+flag means more number of checks, which means more

defects being found, which in turn translates to Leating up of the LonBstandard

time, hence resulting in the operators poor earnings. 3oney is a universal

language, it is well understood by all, and operators are no e9ception. Thus, the

putting up of the L#ed clip+flag is soon linked to the pinch of losing the earnings.

The #ed clip+flag helps the inspector remember to inspect the followBup bundles

from that operator and also helps the supervisor identify what operators are

having &uality problems. *esides this, the bundle is tied with a #ed Tab, by the

%nline checker. This is done to ensure that the operator does not pass the defective

bundle without having it reBchecked by the -.", who alone has the access to

reen Tab that have to be put once the bundle has been passed.

3ake sure that the element of surprise e9ists when doing an inspection.

%nspections should always be performed at random and should never follow

patterns. ollowing a predetermined path in the line can hint operators you are

going to inspect their work ne9t. !ence, inspect the operators at random using the

BRandom num*er ta*&eprovided by the -A.

3ake sure that only the defined number of units is inspected. Eo more, no less.

The units inspected should always be taken randomly from the bundle to ensure

that the sample taken is representative from the bundle. Taking samples only from

the top of the bundle is not correct and can give skewed results. %t is also

F


29/45


important that after inspecting, the pieces in the bundle are kept in the original

se&uence.

The fre&uency at which the inspections are taken is vital. $pend only the

necessary time inspecting a bundle so you can have a larger number ofinspections daily. The ideal number of checks per operator per day is P four.

This number does not include the bundles checked as a part of Lclearance bundles

when the red clip is put up.

Section uper)ior:

The supervisor is responsible that the operators in his+her section perform ade&uately in

their jobs.

%f a &uality inspector approaches the supervisor with a defective unit he or she should:

reet the inspector do not ignore him+her. %nspect the part according to the &uality

specifications

%f it is defective let the inspector know you understand it is a defective part and

you are going to address the part with the operator.

As soon as possible take the part to the operator and approach the situation

appropriately:

Approach operator with defective garment

Ask operator kindly to stop her work and pay you attention

9plain defect found and ask if she understands why garment is defective

3ake sure operator understands why it is defective

Try to find out why the defect was created or why it was not detected at the

workstation

#estate the companys commitment to &uality

6


30/45


Ask operator to inspect the current bundle for more defective parts and then

repair all parts that are out of tolerance including the one found by the

inspector. This should be done immediately.

$tay and observe sewing method

3ake sure method is being followed

%f necessary review the operators card with the operator to see if this was an isolated

occasion or if it is a recurring problem. Try to motivate the operator to continue working

with good &uality.

The supervisor leaves the operator repairing the defects. The supervisor should return

after some time to make sure all work has been inspected and the defects repaired.

*efore the bundles continue to the ne9t operation the supervisor should be sure that there

are no defects in them. All bundles coming from that operator are going to be checked by

the &uality inspector until three consecutive bundles are free of defects. %f there are

defects in the bundles following a rejection, you could say the supervisor is not doing a

good job of ensuring &uality in that operation.

T$e tar+et for t$e In Line "/U i 2ept at te&)e, Anything below twelve indicatesgood &uality levels being maintained by the ine. @nce ?

target can be fi9ed at ?2

In&ine Samp&in+ Report

%nline $ampling record helps to identify an operators performance over a period of one

week and helps to identify if there is improvement in &uality with individual operators.The sewing in line checkers generates the reportK each operator is checked as per the

procedure e9plained above.

This report gives feedback regarding the &uality produced by the operator and also

analysis of the operation he is doing. The report is updated daily so that followBup can be

42


31/45


done on the daily basis and improvement in &uality monitored. This report also helps in

identifying low &uality producing operators and improvement targets can easily be set for

them.

!ee( startin)* 26:04:07 Section; $ine 1 Inspecte* ".;/C Stle* @@@@@@@@@@@@Analsis '

-perator

Analsis '

-peration

/un*#e Si=e; 30 Sa(p#es to Inspect; 7 cceptance 'u("e!; 0 %ota#s %ota#s

'o- o Fau#ts in ?a!(ents Deects Deects

on*a. %ues*a. e*nes*a. %hu!s*a. F!i*a. Satu!*a. Sa(p#e Sa(p#e

1 ttach +#ac>et s(a 2 1 3 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 21

2 ttach S#eeve Rahee#a 1 2 0 14

Sha=ia 1 2 1 19

,otal pieces c"ec(ed 9K7 E 63 14 14 21 $ine Incha!ge;

,otal de%ects %ound 13 3 3 3 H anage!;

I# LI# $+; 21 21 21 14

10K7E70

42 17

2110K7E70

21

21

D D#o. -peration -perator

15 1515

3

4

7

/ee startin+

Total !e#ects #oun!+ Total defects found out of the pieces checked in thatday Inline %U+


32/45


very time the checker an operation for a operation he fills in the number of defects

found in the pieces checked, if there are no defects he puts a tick in the corresponding

block showing that no defects were present.

In addition to t$e a*o)e report= a eparate dai&% report i a&o maintained $ic$

detai& t$e t%pe of defect found,

4


33/45


In &ine Samp&in+ "efect Record

%n line sampling defects record are generated along with inline sampling report by the in

line checkers, this is a daily report and carries the description of the defect so that proper

follow can be done and ma9imum defect producing operators and operations be

identified. To identify who the operator is, who is responsible for a particular defect serial

number in %nline $ampling #eport and %nline $ampling ".

Supe!viso!

Rechec>". HC

Re(a!>s

2 S#eeve ttach +uc>e!ing 7 3 12

H anage! $ine Incha!ge

%ate: self e9planatory Inspecte! "y+Eame of the checker doing the inspection ,tyle+$tyle number as per the specification ,erial nu("er+ This number is the serial number taken from the %nline$ampling #eport and helps to identify the operator who has generated the defect.e.g. if the operator number produces a defect and it is marked in the %nlinesampling report then number should appear in the %nline $ampling


34/45


4


35/45



36/45


LEISURE TEXTILES 0 P@T 1 LT" A CMT UNIT

I# LI# #$ LI# I#SPC,I-# RP-R,

LI# #- * 1 $A, * 23&03&07

S,/L #- * A9C C+C=R * G)M

DNFNC% 9-00 10-00 10-00 11-00 11-0012-00 12-001-00 1-002-30 2-303-30 3-304-30 4-305-30

1 /!o>en & S>ip stitches III

2 pen sea( II

3 neven p#ac>et wi*th4 +#ac>et "o s#ant & !ong shape

5 +uc>e!ing at co##a! II

6 Co##a! out o shape

7 !ong #a"e# attach & issing III

8 i# & stain (a!>

9 Fa"!ic *eect

10 Co#o! sha*ing II

11 Cut *a(age

12 ncut th!ea*

13

14

15

16

17

%%$ +INCNS CNCJND 100

+SSND H%) 90

' F DNFNC% 12

D 12

I' $I'N H-C SI?'%RN

$I'N S+NROISNR SI?'%RN

PPPPPPPPPP- PPPPPPPPPP- PPPPPPPPP--

Hua#it. Necutive +!o*uction Necutive H- anage! Line No$& %ate& ,tyle No$+ $elf e9planatory 'hecer: Eame of the checker checking the garment %e#ects !escription+


37/45


-uality


38/45


%f the operator has found no defects then the supervisor should select a part and

ask the operator to e9plain why this part is of acceptable &uality. The operator

should be able to e9plain why based on the points described in the &uality

specification.

%f defective parts have been identified then the operator should e9plain why they

are defective based on the points described in the &uality specification.

%f the supervisor notices that the operator is not very clear of what the

re&uirements for his operation are or how to find out if these re&uirements have

been met or not, then the &uality specification sheet should be reviewed point by

point.

%f the supervisor notices that the operator ;overlooks= the defects then the

supervisor should review with him the importance of doing a job properly every

time.

The contact that a supervisor and the operator have during the -uality


39/45


Qua&it% Procedure in t$e !ini$in+ Area

-uality in finishing room will be checked at three stages

?22 H "hecking (after ironing)

?22 H 'resentation "heck

inal Audit (statistical audit after carton)


40/45


rom the ?22H inspection reports the supervisor should analy8e what are the most

fre&uently occurring defects and should take the corrective action to prevent the

occurrence of these defects in future.

The inspection form is totaled times a day so a supervisor can actually see the results of

what he or she has done to stop defects. $amples of common defects in ironing are

attached as Appendi9 .

The report being used for ?22H inspection in finishing is e9plained below.

S,/L #-. G)M B;ALI,/ I#SPC,-R * /C $A,* 23&03&07

*00 to 10*00 12*00 to 1*00 1*40 to 2*40 2*40 to 4*40 ,otal Remar(s

,-,AL PICS

C+C=$98

PASS$ PICS 85

$&C,ID PICS 13

/!o>en&S>ip Stitch IIII

Qoint Stitch II

pen Sea(

neven a!gin I

+uc>e!ing

Raw N*ges

/a#ancing II

Insecu!e*

issing I

+osition !ong II

-il Stains IIII

$irt ar(s

nwante* C!ease

I(p!ope! C!ease

Shine&I(p!esn a!> II

o#es&Cut

Sha*e va!iation

S#u"&Fo!eign )a!n

Jnitting Fau#t

1

2

3

,-,AL

#o. o% de%ects$+; 19

$+; ,otal no. o% de%ects 3 100 ,otal c"ec(ed

Bualit EecutiFe &inis"in) Inc"ar)e

S;..AR/

&A9$A.AG

-,+RS

S!I#G$&C,S

9,9+9S

S,AI#

IR-#

18

2


41/45


%ate: $elf e9planatory Inspecte! "y: Eame of the checker checking the garment ,tyle: $tyle Eumber as per the specifications No$ o# pieces chece!+ Eumber of pieces checked per hour No$ o# !e#ects #oun!: Total defects found in the hour No$ o# !e#ective pcs+Eumber of pieces found with defects and given for

alteration No$ o# passe! pcs+ ('ieces checked B defective pieces) %e#ects !escription+


42/45


Qua&it% Audit: C$ec2er. Accurac%

-uality audit is an e9amination of small number of garments from finished stock from

sewing. These are taken as representative of the &uality going to finishing room.

All endBline checkers are audited individually times a day to ensure a control on

checking efficiency of endBline checkers.

The Auditor himself randomly pick up the garments from each checkers passed pieces.

These pieces should not be given to him by the supervisor or any other personnel.

The ormula for checking efficiency of checker is:

C$ec2in+ Efficienc%> ?22H %nspection

?22H %nspection

-uality Audit is an every day process and should be undertaken without fail.

Dat 23&03&07 u*ite* /.; /C Sign;

/ C

C!itica#Deects

ao!Deects

ino!Deects

S,/L S;AR/

9uer Stle Product

%ota# +cs Chec>e* E

%ota# D E

Co((ents;

C!itica# Deects Se!ious *eect #ea*ing to custo(e! co(p#aint an*&o! !etu!n

ao! Deects Deect that (ight "e notice* custo(e! co(p#aint p!o"a"#e

ino! Deects ino! *eect p!o"a"#. not notice* ". custo(e! "ut not acco!*ing to speciication

Chec>e!s ccu!ac. E Chec>e! DK100&BChec>e! D u*it D

D BDeect pe! un*!e* nits E G 1T / G 0-5T C G 0T G 100 & %ota# pieces chec>e* Incha!ge H

S-

no-

Deects Foun*

1

i* $ine 10

10 II II

Chec>e!s

ccu!ac.

L

E 10K100&

B1030E

25L

EB2K1

2K-5K

100&1

0 E 30G)M

Chec>e!

D

HC 'a(e Section+cs-

Chec>e*

u*it

D

Deects Desc!iption

+uc>e!ing at si*e sea(

pen stitch

2

/u.e!

quality manual to finish

Documents