MEN’S HEALTH 125MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

Now summer is here you should no more wear a heavy cologne to grace its arrival

than you would a rollneck to the beach. But with fragrance counters groaning under the weight of a thousand bottles

purporting to do the same thing, which should you choose? This

is our guide to finding a summer scent to gently reflect the complexion of your personality

PHOTOGRAPHY LUKE KIRWANSTYLING ERIC DOWN

WORDS AHMED ZAMBARAKJI

Scents And

Sensibility

EDITED BY ERIC DOWN & MATT HAMBLY

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Fragrances from the blue family tend, as you might expect, to be invigorating, fresh and best suited to the man leading an active lifestyle – men like you, naturally. “They’re designed for the kind of character who thrives on adrenaline,” says award-winning perfume critic and author Dariush Alavi. “He’s all about dynamism,

speed and pitting his body against the elements.” He may also, we’d like to add, be partial to a gin and tonic after a day spent taming the surf.

These scents come into their own during the spring and summer months due to their weightless, effervescent quality. The discernible citrus notes in the first few minutes after spraying lend them an

Blue Men’s Group

energising character that’s complimented by a marine note in the middle. (Hence the blue, yeah?) Case in point: the latest incarnation of Dolce & Gabbana’s Light Blue features a combination of grapefruit, juniper and musk that cuts through the summer heat. One for those wanting to cling on to the exuberance of youth, then.

1/ DOLCE & GABBANA LIGHT BLUE EAU INTENSE POUR

HOMME £48 FOR 50ML2/ MICHAEL KORS EXTREME

NIGHT £70 FOR 120ML3/ HUGO BOSS BOTTLED

TONIC £45 FOR 5OML4/ GIORGIO ARMANI CODE

COLONIA £66 FOR 75ML5/ NARCISO RODRIGUEZ

BLEU NOIR £60 FOR 100ML

STYLE - 07/17SUMMER FRAGRANCE SPECIAL

BLAZER £475 AND TROUSERS £235 BOTH SANDROSCARF £85 FAVOURBROOKBRACELET £250 TATEOSSIANWATCH £3895 BREMONTRUCKSACK £140 ARC’TERYX

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‘Extreme’ fragrances have been a burgeoning trend in the fragrance world for a couple of years now. More often than not they represent more intense variations on existing scents (‘flankers’, to use industry parlance) that offer either a ‘louder’ projection of the original scent or prolonged lifespan on the skin. For example,

Chanel Allure Homme Sport Eau Extrême has far more longevity (in other words, it lingers for longer) and a considerably sweeter punch than its popular but comparatively meek predecessor from 1999.

The bolder, darker nature of these fragrances, then, makes them fantastic for late nights and eveningwear.

Black Ops

“This man’s modus operandi is one of sophisticated understatement,” says Alavi of he who takes it black. “He considers his sense of style earnestly and he likes to maintain an air of mystery about him. His secrets are saved only for those who manage to get up close.” Carrying a box of Milk Tray would be a step too far, mind.

1/ RALPH LAUREN POLO RED EXTREME £69 FOR 125ML

2/ CHRISTIAN DIOR SAUVAGE VERY COOL SPRAY

£57.50 FOR 125ML3/ PACO RABANNE INVICTUS

INTENSE £69 FOR 100ML4/ PRADA LUNA ROSSA

CARBON £66.50 FOR 100ML5/ CHANEL ALLURE HOMME

SPORT EAU EXTRÊME £63 FOR 50ML

BLAZER £1245 SHIRT £315 TROUSERS £415 TIE £140 AND SHOES £480 ALL RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABELWATCH £4800 TAG HEUERGLASSES £125 CUBITTS

STYLE - 07/17SUMMER FRAGRANCE SPECIAL

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Eastern Promise

STYLE - 07/17

BLAZER £1620 AND TROUSERS £575 BOTH

PAL ZILERIVEST £55 SCHIESSERSHOES £425 HARRYS

OF LONDONSUNGLASSES £165

KAREN WALKERSCARF £175 AND

POCKET SQUARE £50 BOTH PAUL SMITHWATCH £70 TIMEXBRIEFCASE £695

MULBERRY Orange is a colour often associated with warning, so let this be yours: you are now handling potent aromas. These fragrances are redolent of the Far East – both its food and its climate – and as such are powerful and carry with them the potential to be overbearing. Featuring rich spices like nutmeg, cinnamon and clove along with incense,

leather or amber in the base notes, they evoke feelings of lust and exoticism, warmth and seductiveness. In short, the wearer’s personality needs to stand up to the perfume. “The men who can make these fragrances work tend to have confidence, passion and sophistication in equal measure,” explains Azzi Glasser, the perfume

designer behind the exceptional The Perfumer’s Story (theperfumersstory.com). “He likes to make an entrance and be the centre of attention wherever he goes, and he wants to linger in people’s minds long after he’s moved on to his next port of call.” Our advice? Don’t spray the spray unless you can walk the walk.

1/ ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ESSENZE INDIAN

SPICE £156 FOR 100ML2/ JO MALONE LONDON

GOLDEN NEEDLE TEA £160 FOR 75ML3/ ARAMIS VOYAGER

£67 FOR 110ML4/ CHRISTIAN DIOR CUIR

CANNAGE £200 FOR 125ML5/ JOOP! WOW! £53 FOR 100ML

SUMMER FRAGRANCE SPECIAL

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Green Party

STYLE - 07/17

BLAZER £630 TROUSERS £460 AND TOP £165 ALL EMPORIO ARMANIBRIEFCASE £1545 MARNI WATCH £5900 ZENITHBRACELET £145 TATEOSSIAN

Like blue scents, green fragrances evoke a sense of the outdoors, though here the emphasis is on verdant gardens and al fresco lunches among the flora, rather than sea and sand. Most exhibit the characteristics of sun- dappled forests or moist, mossy woodlands. “These fragrances are all about tranquility, not sweat-

pumping action,” says Alavi. “They suit the man who likes the feel of grass underfoot.”

Notes from this family run the gamut from well-tended English garden to untamed fir tree forests, but they’re often defined by a pungent herbaceous quality. To take the edge off all that green, they frequently feature hints of rosemary and lavender, or

citrus and warming woods. The danger here is dousing

liberally only to give off the aroma of pine fresh toilet cleaner, so it’s important to choose your scent wisely. Muguet Porcelaine, a unisex scent from venerable French brand Hermès, is rich with floral notes like Lily of the Valley, giving an impression of delicate complexity.

1/ VALENTINO UOMO ACQUA £92 FOR 100ML2/ MURDOCK VETIVER

COLOGNE £70 FOR 100ML3/ ACQUA DI PARMA

COLONIA CLUB £91 FOR 100ML

4/ TOM FORD SOLE DI POSITANO £155 FOR 50ML

5/ HERMÈS MUGUET PORCELAINE

£171 FOR 100ML

SUMMER FRAGRANCE SPECIAL

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BronzeAge

STYLE - 07/17

Scents the colour of brandy glasses and whisky decanters evoke a vintage age of brown leather, cigar smoke and cologne strong enough to drink over ice. While things have moved on a little, the decadent, private members’ club aura these fragrances project is still very much intact. A scent such as Tom Ford’s Bois Marocain, for

instance, has a warm weight to it, with a smoky, woody feel that hugs the skin. It brings to mind artfully worked oak furniture: sturdy, stately and sophisticated.

But don’t go mistaking this family of fragrances as purely for throwbacks and fogies. Bottega Veneta’s Pour Homme exudes the same classic qualities we’ve

mentioned, yet manages to feel thoroughly modern at the same time. “There’s no doubt the man who wears this kind of fragrance is unashamedly masculine,” says Alavi. “Even so, while he embodies a certain old-school charm, his outlook is contemporary.” We’re thinking a little less Richard Burton, a bit more Tom Hiddleston. Make scents?

1/ DAVIDOFF HORIZON EXTREME £48 FOR 75ML

2/ TOM FORD BOIS MAROCAIN £250 FOR 50ML

3/ BOTTEGA VENETA POUR HOMME PARFUM

£80 FOR 90ML4/ GUCCI GUILTY ABSOLUTE

£70 FOR 90ML5/ PACO RABANNE

1 MILLION PRIVÉ £70 FOR 100ML

SUIT £845 THE KOOPLES HENLEY £65 SCHIESSERSHOES £580 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA WATCH £525 MAURICE LACROIXPOCKET SQUARE STYLIST’S OWNCHAIR £373 HANS J WEGNER FOR CARL HANSEN AT ARAM

SUMMER FRAGRANCE SPECIAL

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