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Buying fragrance is a tricky old business, and that’s when you’re smelling outa scent of your own. Seeking one out for another person is an olfactoryminefield, given the personal and primal natural of scent, and beingbombarded by alcohol-laden smellies in a beauty hall can skew even thekeenest nose. Given that the most sales of fragrance throughout the year

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occur in the weeks running up to Christmas, here’s a handy guide to cuttingthrough the fluff and finding something truly special, whether it’s new to themarket, a cult favourite, customisable to the wearer or a reinvention of aclassic. Mull over this lot before you set foot in a fragrance department.

T H E O L D O N E , R E I N V I G O R A T E DT H E O L D O N E , R E I N V I G O R A T E D

Sometimes simple and elegant is best, and in the case of Chanel Nº5, it’sbeen many a woman’s perfume of choice since its debut in 1921, and stillholds the record for bestselling fragrance in the world. A recent reinventionby Chanel perfumer Olivier Polge, however, has lightened up time-honouredNº5, adding citrus and a smidge of ylang-ylang for zingy freshness, withwhite musk and cedar to ground the more peppy top notes. The result is theenergised Nº5 L’Eau Spray, £68, housed in a pared back glass bottle and withLily-Rose Depp as the face to convey a bit of youthful, playful pizzazz. Thecampaign hashtag says it all really- #youknowmeandyoudont.

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If you can’t find a fragrance with your loved one’s name on, it’s time to getcreative. Byredo Unnamed, £90, is not just a mossy, peppery blend withmore than a hint of gin going on (t’is the season), it’s also very clever intechnically being a scent with no name, just a simple, white label, as is theByredo way, but with no type. On purchase you’ll receive a set of letters inthe Byredo font to etch on yourself. Choose a name, place of significance,particular memory or in-joke to create a fragrance that’s as personal as itcomes, but move quick, as Unnamed was released to celebrate Byredo’stenth anniversary and stocks are limited.

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Frederic Malle’s Portrait of a Lady has been the talk of the town this year inparticular, with fragrance expert Michael Donovan declaring it ‘the bestTurkish Rose in the business’. Our Editor-in-Chief Susannah Taylor is findingherself gravitating towards regularly, and I have a Portrait of a Lady showercream that I’m rationing for the rest of my days. Wondering what all the fussis about? It contains an unusually high concentration of rose essence, but thelikes of cinnamon and sandalwood add mysterious, oriental intrigue. This neworganic hair and body oil (£130) incarnation doubles up a scent and instanthydrator for more bang for buck.

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The more luxe the gift, the higher the stakes when it comes to potentialdisappointment, so letting your intended recipient choose a scentthemselves is a good bet. Push the envelope in terms of a traditional giftvoucher by giving a unique Shot Candle™ Experience, £80, a conceptdesigned by fragrance expert Jo Malone MBE. The experience involves apersonal consultation at the Jo Loves Candle Studio in London, beforecreating a bespoke candle through layering a ‘base’ and ‘shot’ of your choice.The Jo Loves team will then add some very swanky packaging and you’ll havea custom candle that will burn for weeks, not to mention kudos from nearestand dearest for your impeccable taste. If your loved one can’t make it toLondon, it’s possible to do a consultation and candle making over the phonewith a Jo Loves expert.

T H E U N D E R S T A T E D O N ET H E U N D E R S T A T E D O N E

The Le Labo Discovery Set, £20, may not look like much, but hear me outhere, as the minis within make for a superior stocking delving experience. Thefive scents inside are among some of the brand’s most beloved, from Santal33 to the ever-popular Rose 31, and while minimalist in packaging, theydeliver in terms of points of difference, from the craftsmanship required tohand-blend each bottle in New York to the commitment of Le Laboperfumers to conjure something new and expressive. There’s a reason that LeLabo’s ‘formulations’ are quoted as favourites with fragrance expertsworldwide- there’s nothing frilly, token or unnecessary about thesecreations, just pure, passionate perfumery, aided by the use of premiumingredients.

T H E ‘ D O W N T O N A B B E Y C H R I S T M A ST H E ‘ D O W N T O N A B B E Y C H R I S T M A SS P E C I A L ’ O N ES P E C I A L ’ O N E

Not only will Penhaligon’s The Coveted Duchess Rose, £178, look formidableon any mantlepiece, but if your giftee is a fan of period dramas, this orientalrose comes laced with scandal and will fill a Downton Abbey shaped hole inyour Christmas programming. The story goes that the Duchess Rose,daughter to Lady Blanche and Lord George in the same Portrait fragranceseries, married a Duke in order to escape the stifling family atmosphere,hoping for exhilarating romance but ending up a less-than-thrilling,unsatisfying marriage. She’s now, as you can imagine, feeling pretty blaséabout love, which is possibly why her signature scent is about as far from asaccharine, sickly rose as you could get- this floral has a musky woodbackbone, zingy mandarin topnote and a generally alluring spark. Giving arose is sometimes considered a bit obvious, but the Duchess’ take on it isanything but. Obviously we are talking stately prices here, so perhaps subtlywaft a tester around for sly feedback before you buy…

T H E S M A L L B U T M I G H T Y O N ET H E S M A L L B U T M I G H T Y O N E

Oils are having quite a moment in the fragrance industry currently, and thehumble rollerball is one of the handiest ways to tap into the trend (no risk ofspillage/ potent oil slicks). & Other Stories scents are renowned for theirfinesse fused with affordability, and Fig Fiction Roll-On Perfume, £12, is along-lasting, green yet intriguing take on the often-rich fig. There’s a touchof musk, a hit of freshness and a warm but not overpowering trace of vanilla.Traditional winter fruits (plum and blackcurrant) add jammy depth, to makethis a comforting but not stifling scent to glide-on on of a frosty day.

T H E ‘ O R A N G E I N T H E S T O C K I N G ’ O N ET H E ‘ O R A N G E I N T H E S T O C K I N G ’ O N E

Bring on the gift mandarins when they make you feel this sexy/ jazzy/ cosy/full of festive cheer. The limited edition Jo Malone Orange Bitters Cologneconcoction, £90, is wintry without evoking your typical sticky, cinnamonladen scent- think a perfectly balanced cocktail of citrus, amber, sandalwood,prune and grown-up bitters to set off an evening. The Harlequin bottledesign is especially covetable, and as always Jo Malone wrapping goes aboveand beyond. If you can’t get your hands on it in cologne form, there will be noregrets if you opt for an equally delicious candle. It’s not too often thatsophisticated limited edition holiday scents crop up and blow thecompetition out of the water, so I’d say this is worth the spend if your budgetallows.

T H E S H A M E L E S S L Y S E A S O N A L O N ET H E S H A M E L E S S L Y S E A S O N A L O N E

A candle assortment in three ‘acts’, the Une Nuit Chez Diptyque CandleSet, £80, is as much a marvel to behold as it is to inhale on a cold morning.All traditional holiday aromas are covered here, with the exception of theturkey. From spiced gingerbread to fresh fir tree and sparkling vanilla, each ofthese jewel hued twinklers has been designed to capture the comforting andslightly magical traditions of the festive season, and once burned the jars willserve as Christmassy tealight holder for years to come. If you’re trying toconvince a certain someone that Father Christmas legit exists, this is yourchance to sell it in.

After a selection of more ‘niche’ fragrances? We have just the thing…

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