1. Formal Shirt Operation Breakdown with SMV Details2. Casual Shirt3. Formal Trouser4. Casual Trouser5. Formal Jacket6. Casual Jackets7. Womens Top8. Denim

Operation Breakdown and SAM of the Full Sleeve Formal Mens Shirt Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar 2031

Prior to defining SAM of the garment, detailed operation break-down is made by engineer. Both manual and machine operations are included in the operation list. Then a skilled operator is given to do operations one by one. 5 to 10 samples are studied. All operations are studied by GSD expert for motion analysis. At the same time all operations are videoed for future reference. Calculated SAM of the operations for a Formal Shirt has been shown in the following table. This has been defined by a GSD practitioner of a large size Indian garment export company using GSD software. The following SAM of each individual operation will help to understand how a shirts SAM reach up to a certain value. The SAM of the operation may vary according to the changes styling of the shirts, seam length, attachment and work aids used, motion sequence used by the operator and machine type.

Product: Full Sleeve Mens Formal Shirt. Brand: Arrow

Total Garment SAM: 22.32 minutes.Sl. No.Operation ListSAM

1Pinning to profile0.234

2Run stitch collar0.219

3Trim collar0.285

4Clip and turn collar0.223

5Crease collar0.381

6Top stitch collar0.42

7Run stitch (R/s) collar band0.291

8Crease collar band0.317

9Insert collar in neck band0.799

10Turn and crease collar0.452

11Attach bias piece to cuff0.874

12Crease cuff0.458

13Hem cuff0.501

14R/s cuff0.565

15Trim cuff0.36

16Turn cuff0.527

17Crease cuff bottom0.566

18Attach placket to sleeve0.795

19Lock and make diamond1.026

20Sew pleats (4 no.)0.389

21Hem right front0.494

22Attach front placket0.603

23Crease pocket0.542

24Hem pocket mouth0.28

25Attach pocket to front 0.861

26Attach brand label and tack loop0.589

27Crease patch pieces0.236

28Attach patch piece0.333

29Sew pleats0.278

30Attach yoke to back0.475

31Top stitch back yoke0.365

32Join shoulder0.64

33Top stitch shoulder0.656

34Attach collar0.535

35Close collar with size label1.01

36Sleeve attach0.862

37Top stitch armhole0.678

38Top stitch side seam1.036

39Attach & close cuff0.696

40Top stitch cuff0.524

41Hem bottom0.947

Total SAM22.322

Operation Breakdown and SMV of a Trouser Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar 2729

The operation breakdown of a trouser with two front pocket and two back pocket has been given in the following table. SMVs mentioned here against each operation are just for yourreference. It may vary according to machine types, workstation layout and equipment used. Operations needed to make a trouser have been listed section wise. Machines that are used for the operations have been also mentioned in the table.

Trouser

Table 1: Operation Breakdown Chart

Operation Breakdown and SMV of a TrouserTopics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar2729The operation breakdown of a trouser with two front pocket and two back pocket has been given in the following table. SMVs mentioned here against each operation are just for your reference. It may vary according to machine types, workstation layout and equipment used. Operations needed to make a trouser have been listed section wise. Machines that are used for the operations have been also mentioned in the table.

TrouserTable 1: Operation Breakdown Chart

Table 2: Abbreviation of machine name Table 2: Abbreviation of machine name

Operation Breakdown and SMVs of a Basic Jeans Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar 2339

Operation breakdown of a 5 Pocket Basic Jeans is listed in this article. SMVs mentioned here against each operation are just for yourreference. SMVs may vary according to machine types, workstation layout and equipment used.

Some of operations are done by automatic machines, like auto pocket hemming (APH), auto pocket attaching (APS) etc. Machines that are used for the operations have been mentioned in third column (M/c type) of the following table.This Operation Breakdown has been taken from a Jeans manufacturing company in Vietnam.

5-Pocket Basic Jeans

Table 1: Operation Breakdown Chart

Sl. no.OperationsM/C TypeSMV

Back

1pocket hemmingAPH0.07

2pocket o/l3T O/L0.3

3pocket creasingADPC0.4

4pocket attachingAPS0.74

5second stitch @ back pocketSNLS0.65

6back yoke attachFOA0.41

7back rise joinFOA0.24

8size label attachSNLS0.2

FrontSection

9coin pocket hemmingAPH0.015

10coin pocket attach @ jet piece (right)SNLS0.2

11pocket bag attach with jet piece5T F/L0.42

12o/l @ pocket bag3T O/L0.68

13top stitch @ pocket bagSNLS0.4

14o/l @ zipper fly4T O/L0.3

15o/l front panels @ crotch3T O/L0.26

16zipper attach @ left flyDNLS0.32

17left fly attach @ front panel (inseam & top stitch)SNLS0.34

18J-stitch @ left flyAPJ0.58

19front pocket mouth hemmingDNFPH0.3

20pocket bag stitch to front panel @side & top (wt w/c label@lt.)SNLS0.46

21right fly attach with zipper & crotch joinSNLS0.25

Assembly

22loop preparation3T F/L0.15

23main label attach @ waist band, & w/b joining in chainSNLS0.3

24top stitch @ inseamFOA0.55

25side seam join (attach front & back panels)5T O/L0.65

26top stitch @ side seamSNLS0.38

27waist band stitchWBAM0.38

28waist band corners finishSNLS0.72

29loop attachABLA0.65

30bottom hemmingBHM0.33

Total 11.65

Full form of sewing machine name

APH - Automatic pocket hemming machineADPc - Automatic pockect creasin gmachineAPc - Auto pocket stitching machineSNLS - Single needle lock stitchFOA - Feed of the arm3TO/L - 3 thread overlock (overedge)5TF/L - 5 thread flat lock (cover stitch)4TO/L - 4 thread over lock5TO/L - 5 thread over lockDNLS - Double neeedle lock stitch3TF/L - 3 thread flat lock (cover stitch)APJ - Auto J-stitch makingDNFPH - Double needle front pocket hemmingWBAM - Waistband attach machineABLA - Auto loop attachBHM - Bottom hemming machine

(Note: Some of the machine names are short form of machine used for the specific operation used by a company. Other companies may name it different way)

Sewing Process Flow Chart for Crew neck T-Shirt Topics: Apparel Production By: Prasanta Sarkar 3241

It is always easier to understand a picture than just description. How to make a T-shirt can be explained many times but students learnt it completely when they see it in the production floor. A process flow chart gives them the logic how operations follow sequence one after another.

A sewing process flow chart has been depicted in the following figure to guide learners how a T shirt is being made in a bulk production system. It is assumed that T shirt has neck tape (self bias tape). The process flow is also showing the sequence of operations that is generally being followed. Some factory may have a slightly varied sequence.

A crew neck T shirt has six components Front, Back, Neck rib or Collar, Neck tape and two sleeves. In the figure, on the top four sections of the garment component have been shown. The arrows show the flow of operations and inside the red circles operation sequence number and name of the operations has been written.

Figure:Sewing Process flow for T-Shirt

Operation Breakdown, Sewing Thread and SMV Calculation of a Polo Shirt

Calculation of SAM/SMV:

Step 1: Select one operation for which you want to calculate SAM.

Step 2: Capture cycle time for that operation by stop watch standing beside of the operator. (cycle time: total time taken to do all works needed to complete one operation). Do time study for consecutive five cycles. Calculate average of the 5 cycles. Time we get from time study is called cycle time.Basic Time = Cycle Time X Performance rating

* Performance rating: Performance rating means at what performance level operator doing the job, considering his movement and work speed. Suppose that operator performance rating is 80%. Suppose cycle time is 0.60 minutes. Basic time = (0.60 X 80%) = 0.48 minutes

Step 3: Standard allowed minutes (SAM) = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + machine and personal allowances). Add bundle allowances (10%) and machine and personal allowances (20%) to basic time. Now we get Standard Minute value (SMV) or SAM. SAM= (0.48+0.048+0.096) = 0.624 minutes.OPERATION BREAKDOWN AND SMV

Name of OperationM/C nameSMV Manpower

Placket IronIRON0.402

Placket Join Position MarkTABLE0.301

Placket Join1N2TLS0.322

Placket Front Middle CutTABLE0.281

Rib Placket ServicingO/L0.251

Lower Placket 2 Part Join1N2TLS0.301

Lower Placket O/L 2N4TOL0.281

Lower Placket Join & Top Stitch1N2TLS0.322

Nose Tack1N2TLS0.351

Back & Front Part MatchingTABLE0.301

Shoulder Joint & Trim2N4TOL0.331

Collar Servicing & MarkO/L0.301

Collar Tack to Neck1N2TLS0.402

Collar Join2N4TOL0.321

Collar Piping1N2TFL0.301

Collar Top Stitch1N2TLS0.602

Placket Close & 1/16 T/S1N2TLS0.713

Placket Inner Tack1N2TLS0.351

Placket Corner CutTABLE0.251

Placket Box Make1N2TLS0.502

Cuff ServicingO/L0.251

Cuff Join2N4TOL0.401

Sleeve MatchingTABLE0.301

Sleeve Join2N4TOL0.432

Arm Hole Top Stitch2N3TFL0.451

Cuff Opening Tack1N2TLS0.301

Sticker Remove+ Body TurnTABLE0.201

Side Seam2N4TOL0.502

Cuff Top Tack1N2TLS0.221

Bottom Hem2N3TFL0.241

Button Hole1N2TBH0.251

Button attach With Mark1N2TBA0.401

Label Make & Bottom Security Tack1N2TLS0.432

Total11.5344

Sewing Thread Consumption:Sewing thread requirement 3.44 M for machine code 1N2TLS means to Stitch 1 Meter of Seam, 3.44 meter sewing thread is used.Here we need to consideroperational allowance3+3=6 cm (starting point+ ending point) for each operation for Lock Stitch and 3.5+3.5= 7 cm for chain stitch , 5+5=10 cm for Flat lock , 6+6=12 cm for over lock with thelength of each operation.Also we need to consider 10-15% wastage on the calculated sewing thread consumption.SEWING THREAD CONSUMPTION

M/C NameCODERequired Thread(M/M)

Single Needle Lock Stitch1N2TLS3.44

Single Needle 2 Thread Flat Lock1N2TFL4.8

Double Needle 3 Thread Flat Lock2N3TFL13.2

Double Needle 4 Thread Over lock2N4TOL19.8

Without Needle Over lock M/CO/L0

Button Attach1N2TBA0.3

Button Hole1N2TBH0.95

Posted by Noor Hossain at 9:12 AM Sample Operation Breakdown of a Jacket Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar 3116

Question: Can I have one sample operation breakdown for a jacket with production layout? ... asked by Aweke ZewduAnswer:

A sample operation breakdown with SAM of each operation has been shown below. In this article, only operation breakdown and operation SMVs are posted. Production layout will be posted in a separate article.Standard time shown in the below chart is determined from Time Study. List of operations and SAM of operations may vary based on style and construction. This Operation breakdown has been sourced from a graduation project report of a NIFT student. This Project was done in Silver Sparks Apparel Limited, Bangalore.

Operation Breakdown and Machine Layout for Bra Manufacturing Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar 1412

Question:Please post an article on operation breakdown & machine layout of a standard bra. I was unable to find anything on the Internet. ... asked by Isuru.

The following operation breakdown of a bra is refer to a particular style. Note that, SAM values of the operations may vary according to the style, seam length, attachment and work aids used and machine type. Prior to use below mentioned SAMs and operation sequence discuss it with your engineers. As per your request I have also attached machine layout of bra making in assembly line. To improve machineutilization few operations are clubbed together.

Operation Breakdown: Bra

OP #SEWING PROCESSSAMMACHINE

1Join Cups0.57SNLS

2Attach Tape to Cups0.73DNLS

3attach Elastic to side cups0.443SZZ

4Set support Panels0.39SNLS

5Serge support panels0.623TOL

6Join support panels, cup and front1.52SNLS

7Attach coverstitch tape to front0.61DNLS

8Join backs to cups0.55SNLS

9Attach coverstitch tape to sides0.47DNLS

10Attach lace and tape to cups0.76DNLS

11Attach elastic to band0.90ZZ

12Attach upper elastic & straps0.913SZZ

13Cover support panels edges0.543TOL

14Attach hooks and eyes to straps1.39SNLS

15Set eye to back0.36ZZ

16Set hook to back0.50SNLS

17Attach trimming to front0.25SNLS

18Trim thread and inspect1.00MAN

Total SAM12.51

Machine Layout for Bra makingIn the machine layout figure operation numbers and machine name have been mentioned.