soft ripened cheeses queso diego tuesday, october 16, 2012 laurie gerber
TRANSCRIPT
Soft ripened cheeses
Queso DiegoTuesday, October 16, 2012
Laurie Gerber
Kinds of Cheese(American Cheese Society Classification)
• Fresh cheeses – chevre, cottage cheese, mozzarella• Soft-ripened cheeses – brie, camembert• Semi-soft cheeses – jack, havarti, port-salut• Firm/hard cheeses – cheddar, gouda, swiss, parmesan• Blue cheeses – roquefort, stilton, gorgonzola• Pasta filata cheeses – mozzarella, provolone• Natural rind cheeses – Stilton, Mimolette• Washed rind – Muenster, Taleggio• Processed cheeses – American, Laughing Cow
Appearance of soft-ripened cheese
2000BC 1000BC AD 1000 2012
2000 BC - First “secure”
evidence of cheesemaking
-Sum
erian cuneiform
-Egyptian tomb murals
879 - Gorgonzola
1500 - Cheddar
1791 - Camem
bert
700s - Brie – Charlemagne
places standing order
1900 - Cambozola
Brie
What makes it a soft ripened cheese?
• Soft – high moisture curds• Primary ripening (acidification) with bacterial
culture• Shaped in molds/hoops but not pressed• Secondary ripening with fungal mold – from the
outside in• “Bloomy” or wrinkly exterior• Perishable – brief time window of perfection• All about flavor – not a milk preservation method
Types and styles• Fully ripened (brie, camembert)– Thin profile enables full paste ripening before spoilage
• Chalky core (humbolt fog, gratte paille)– Thick profile retards mold ripening of center
• Surface ripened – Lower moisture inhibits spoilage as cheese ages/dries
• Cow, goat, sheep and mixed-milk varieties• Majority from France, some in Spain, Italy, Germany,
US, UK• Other common features:– Vegetable ash – encourages mold, discourages bacteria.
Most common on goat cheese.
Brie de Meaux
Gratte Paille
Soft ripened cheese production• Cultures
– generally mesophillic bacterial culture– Two or three strains produce diacetyl giving buttery flavor:
• Leuconostoc mesenteroides ssp. Cremoris• Lactococcus lactis subsp. biovar diacetylactis• Lactococcus lactis ssp Lactis ?
– Two types of white mold – in starter or spray on• Penicillium candidum• Geotrichum candidum
– One blue mold• Penicillium roqueforti
• Ripening temperature: Low (75°) to moderate (90°)• Milk ripening time: Varies – 1 – 24 hours• Rennet: small quantity – few drops – 1.2t/gallon• Curd cutting: Large pieces - Large cubes – slices – no cutting • Stirring: none• Cooking/washing: none• Shaping: Drain in mold – no pressing• Salting: Surface salting• Ageing: brief – 10 days – 6 weeks• Shelf life: Short, perishable
About the (fungal) molds
• Often used in combination• Equal amounts or about 2:1
• Penicillium candidum• Geotrichum candidum
Penicillium roqueforti
• Blue mold
• Stilton ->
• Also possible to use as surface mold as in Monte Enebro
About butteriness
• Brie – whole milk cheese • Secondary ripening and diacetyl, not high fat• Fat content– Brie – 60% (of dry matter); 31% of cheese– Double cream – 60-75% (of dry matter); – Triple cream – >75% (of dry matter); 39% of the
cheese• Because brie is high moisture – lower fat than
cheddar
Ripening/Ageing• Mold growth is aerobic• Ripening from outside->in• Desirable developments– Bloomy rind– Proteolysis/lipolysis (transformation of paste from
chalky/firm to supple/oozy)– Flavor development: savory, mushroomy, pungent
• Undesirable developments– Pathogens (salmonella, listeria)– Pink or black mold– Ammonia and sulphur (overripe/spoiled)
Valençay
Aging profile
Examples – Provided by Mary PalmerTaste Artisan Cheese!
• Brie de MeauxWhole cow’s milk France
• ExplorateurTriple cream cow’s milkFrance
• Humboldt FogGoat’s milkAsh midline and exterior dustingSonoma, California
• Monte EnebroGoat’s milkBlue mold ripenedSpain