sovino - autumn edition
DESCRIPTION
A premium publication, focusing on the fine spectrum of wines, craft beers and premium spirits. Each issue of SoVino incorporates seasonal lifestyle editorial including profiles of prominent wine regions and wine-makers, commentary with industry experts, decadent meal recipes with wine matching suggestions, and exclusive reviews for the wine aficionado.TRANSCRIPT
a guide for lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
autumn issue 2014. exclusive to independent liquor retailers.
his passionate career
A chat with Grant Burge’s Craig Stansborough
winemaking 101
The winemaking process, from the vine to your glass
hunter valley
A closer look at Australia’s original wine region
WGS Portrait A4.pdf 1 17/02/2014 16:54:00
WGS Portrait A4.pdf 1 17/02/2014 16:54:00
ContentsEditor’s letter ...................................................................................2
Food and wine calendar ................................................................3
Your guide on how to eat and drink your way around Australia
Winemaking 101 .............................................................................4
The winemaking process, from the vine to your glass
Drink this with that .........................................................................6
Easy and delicious food ideas for reds and whites
His passionate career ..................................................................10
A chat with Grant Burge’s Craig Stansborough
Meet the locals .............................................................................14
Meet Michael and Sharron from Bungendore Cellars
Hunter Valley .................................................................................18
A closer look at Australia’s original wine region
Bring your own .............................................................................22
ideas for boy’s night in ...or a girl’s night out
New product spotlight .................................................................25
Bulldog Gin and Double Jack
Features
Grante Burge .....................................................................................8
Penfolds ..........................................................................................12
Mount Gay Rum ..............................................................................16
Mount Pleasant ...............................................................................20
Thomas Cooper Artisan Beer ..........................................................26
Apple Thief Cider .............................................................................28
Elefante Tempranillo .........................................................................30
Created by Coordinate for Independent Liquor Retailers Pty Ltd localliquor.com.au
Managing Editor: Alex Tricolas Contributor: Jan O’Connell Project Manager: Andrea Cano Design: Javier Steel
Advertising and editorial enquiries contact:
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Products and prices throughout this magazine are available only at participating stores.
Of all the seasons in the winemaker’s year, Autumn is perhaps the busiest. Of course, it is a
time when the harvest of grapes is well under way, perhaps even completed in some regions.
The process of fermentation will turn these grapes into wine, and at this point, the skill of the
winemaker will come to the fore. Decisions will be made based a number of factors–amongst
them the weather, the type of soil, the grape, and the winemaker’s vision for the finished
product. In this issue, we give you a quick breakdown of the winemaking process as most of our
winemakers are in the thick of it. It’s also a good time to consider how far the Australian industry
has come, and to tip our hats to the pioneers of Australian wines. We take a look at our first wine
growing region, Hunter Valley, and find out a little about how it all began and where it is now. We
also head to South Australia to lend an ear to famed Barossa winemaker Craig Stansborough of
Grant Burge fame. We have included an easy to read calendar of some of the more interesting
food and wine events that will be happening around the country as we celebrate the season and
we get an insight to some great wine and premium beer labels. It’s been a big summer, and we
may miss those hot days at times, but Autumn is here. Bring it on.
Alex Tricolas
Editor
Editor’s Letter
editor’s letter
2 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
autumn calendar
Your food and wine calendar
here’s how to eat and drink your way around australia over the next few months. cheers!
APRIL4-13
Orange F.O.O.D Week
Food Of Orange District showcases the
region dubbed the “food basket of NSW”.
Wine tastings, farm gate tours, cooking
demonstrations, cabaret, picnics, a huge
‘Night Market’ and Forage, plus the 100-
Mile Dinner featuring dishes made from local
produce sourced within 100 Miles of Orange.
orangefoodweek.com.au
5-6
Canberra District Wine Harvest Festival
The region’s cool-climate wineries present
events including grape stomping, live music
and master winemaking classes, plus the
chance to taste the region’s best wines.
canberrawines.com.au
24-28
Kangaroo Island FEASTival
Celebrate fine seafood and Kangaroo Island’s
local gourmet produce and wine. Join
local cooks for dinner in their homes, meet
the producers, enjoy degustation dinners,
campfire cooking and barbecues by the sea.
tourkangarooisland.com.au
27-4 may
Tasting Australia
For 2014, Tasting Australia’s theme is Origins,
celebrating the idea that the ‘where you are’ is
the ‘who you are’ of modern Australian wine
21-25
Savour Tasmania
Internationally recognised chefs present
a range of degustation dinners focusing
on natural produce in Hobart and regional
Tasmania. The festival also includes the
Tasmanian Red Wine Weekend featuring a
range of master classes and wine tastings.
savourtasmania.com.au
JUNE 21 – mid-august
Canberra & Capital Region Truffle Festival
Billed as “a taste of mid-winter magic” this
festival is a chance to discover more about the
mysterious black truffle. Follow the truffle dogs
on their hunts, enjoy truffle degustations at fine
restaurants, and take classes in how to cook
with this magical fungus.
trufflefestival.com.au
27-29
Truffle Kerfuffle
Held in Manjimup, Western Australia, this
event includes a gala dinner, truffle hunts,
master classes and farmers’ markets.
Western Australia is the biggest producer
of truffles outside Europe, so there’s plenty
of black gold to be found.
trufflekerfuffle.com.au
and food. This is South Australia’s premier
food and wine festival, and the action isn’t just
in Adelaide. Wine regions such as the Barossa
Valley, McLaren Vale, Clare Valley, Coonawarra
and Adelaide Hills offer tastings, wine
auctions and food and wine master classes.
tastingaustralia.com.au
MAY1-31
Aussie Wine Month
Aussie Wine Month, organised by Wine
Australia, will involve tastings, promotions and
celebrations across the country showcasing
Australia’s reputation for producing some
of the world’s best wines. The theme of
the third annual Aussie Wine Month will be
‘Regional Heroes’.
wineaustralia.com
16-25
High Country Harvest Festival
Surrounded by the Victorian Alps and
alongside the Murray River, this region is
home to some of Australia’s finest gourmet
producers. Taste hand-made butter,
artisan cheeses, internationally-known
wines and fine Australian lagers and ales.
highcountryharvest.com.au
17-18
Lovedale Long Lunch
You’ve heard of progressive dinners; this
is a progressive lunch. Feast and dance
around seven Hunter Valley wineries, with
local restaurants providing the gourmet food.
lovedalelonglunch.com.au
autumn issue 2014. 3
autumn feature
Winemaking 101autumn is upon us, the time when the next vintage of wine is being made. depending on the climate and the type of wine, the process may be well advanced or just starting; but without a doubt, the months following summer are the busiest time of a winemaker’s year. if you’ve ever wondered just what it takes to get the final product into a bottle and ready to buy at your local, here is a quick breakdown of the process. of course, not every wine–or winemaker–is the same, so often the winemaker may employ different techniques; and sparkling and fortified wines will require a different approach. that said, we can say with a degree of confidence that these five steps are crucial.
the harvest
A simple fact, and a good starting point, is
the rather obvious understanding that without
grapes, there is no wine. Many winemakers
will agree that great wine is made in the
vineyard, and that many factors such as
choice of grape, location, climate and soil,
along with decisions about when to harvest,
will have come into play. Assuming all has
gone well and the season’s grapes have
reached their desired maturity, harvesting
may begin, either mechanically, or by hand.
Most estates will prefer to pick by hand as
this process, although time-consuming, is far
kinder to the fruit. Once the grapes arrive at
the winery, they are sorted to eliminate rotten
or under-ripe fruit before crushing.
crushing and pressing
For centuries, the juice of the grape was
extracted by stomping; and many rituals were
developed around this quaint tradition. By
the middle ages, hand operated equipment
such as basket presses were in common use;
and of course today, the modern crushing
and pressing process is highly advanced,
efficient and hygienic, albeit devoid of some
of the more romantic elements of stomping.
Grapes are first run through a crusher to break
the skins of the berries and, if desired, a de-
stemmer to separate them from their stems.
The process differs depending on what the
end product is. White grapes are not usually
destemmed, but are pressed immediately
to avoid any colour or tannins. Red grapes
are usually destemmed and left to begin
their fermentation process with skins intact
(known as must), ensuring lots of colour in
the final product, before being pressed at a
later date. With many red wines, the must will
be included in the secondary fermentation,
and not separated until after fermentation
is complete.
4 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
When it comes to a top shelf red, the winemaker has bottle aged it
prior to release; and in the case of Penfolds Grange, the bottle ageing
duration is five years.
clarification and
stabilisation
These steps have not always been at the
top of the winemaker’s list, but modern
consumers expect their wines to be bright and
clear; and for many reasons, the fermented
product will be quite hazy or unstable. Wines
often contain yeast and bacteria, residual
sugar or excess protein, all contributors
to a hazy wine; and residual sugars that
remain in the wine may cause an unwanted
fermentation in the bottle, spoiling the wine.
Because quality reds are often aged for a year
or so before bottling, they tend to become
clear and stable during that time, but this
is not the case with whites or blush wines.
Clarification may involve procedures such as
racking–the siphoning of the wine from one
tank to the next, in the hope that most of the
solids remain at the bottom of the tanks–or
fining, adding clay, egg whites or other agents
that adhere to the unwanted solids– and then
racking again to another tank or barrel.
fermentation
Once crushing and pressing is complete, the
juice (or must in the case of reds) is transferred
to fermentation tanks. Bacteria naturally affect
fruit, converting its sugar to alcohol, a process
known as fermentation. Our nearest relatives,
the chimpanzees, have been observed
getting a kick out of eating rotten fruit, so
it’s fair to assume our ancestors enjoyed the
buzz when they stumbled across a rotten
but otherwise fun-packed fruit, leading to
the eventual cultivation of wine. High sugar
content and lots of juice make the grape an
ideal candidate to capitalize on this process.
But of course, naturally occurring bacteria are
wild and unruly, and allowing this to run its
course without human intervention will result
in unstable and erratic outcomes. Modern
winemakers neutralize the natural bacteria
present on the grape skins and in the air
with additives such as sulphar dioxide. Once
this is done, they introduce cultivated yeast
of their choosing to metabolise the sugar in
a controlled fashion. Fermentation will take
anywhere from a week to a month or more.
A number of factors will determine alcohol and
sugar content of the final product. Climate,
sugar content of the fruit, and fermentation
time will have all played a part.
ageing and bottling
There are two types of ageing. One is known
as bottle ageing—this happens when you
buy that Penfolds Grange and stash it away
for your kid’s twenty first. The other is bulk
ageing—that is what a winemaker does
before bottling to ensure quality upon release.
Bulk ageing is usually the domain of reds,
as most whites and blush wines, and even
some lighter reds are bottled immediately after
the clarification process. Of course, when
it comes to a top shelf red, the winemaker
has bottle aged it prior to release; and in the
case of Penfolds Grange, the bottle ageing
duration is five years. Once again, there is no
hard and fast rule here, and ageing is at the
winemaker’s discretion. Once upon a time,
wine bottles were sealed with corks, but as
technology has developed and the snob
factor has declined, screw caps are now
commonplace in all but the most top shelf of
wines. In the end, the final product appears
at your local, ready for you to enjoy.
autumn issue 2014. 5
Red wine with Venison
drink this with that
Method:
1. Heat a little clarified butter in a large pan
and fry the onion rings until translucent.
Add the cabbage and fry, stirring. Add the
stock, cover and cook over a moderate
heat for 25-30 minutes. The cabbage
should retain a slight bite.
2. Stir in the cinnamon, season to taste
with salt and ground black pepper,
remove from the heat and leave to infuse.
Stir in the orange pieces and check
the seasoning.
3. Heat a little clarified butter in a frying pan.
Season the venison with salt and ground
black pepper and sear on both sides,
then reduce the heat and cook for three to
four minutes.
4. To serve, spoon the red cabbage and
oranges onto plates and arrange venison
medallions on top.
Ingredients:
- Clarified butter for frying
- 1 red onion, finely sliced
into rings
- 1 red cabbage, approx. 1 kg,
quartered and finely sliced
- 200 ml venison stock
- 1 tsp ground cinnamon
- 2 unwaxed oranges, flesh diced
- 8 venison medallions,
approx. 75 g each Serves 4 Prep & cook time: 1 hr
2013 St Hallett Black
Clay Shiraz
750mL Bottle $1599
This Barossa Valley Shiraz is
the product of a dry lead-up to
vintage which resulted in low
yields, but exceptional quality.
It typifies the wines produced
by the Barossa’s black Biscay
clays, with their berry compote
and summer pudding flavours.
The nose is dense and packed
with berries; the palate is voluptuous and
smooth. Fruits of the forest and blackberry
flavours are framed by soft tannins to
complete this classic wine.
Climbing Merlot
750mL Bottle $1999
Sourced from the high-elevation,
cool-climate Cumulus Estate
vineyard in Orange, from low-
yielding vines that provide fruit
of intense yet elegant flavor.
Individual parcels of premium
Merlot were selected from
different blocks to produce
this medium bodied wine, with
flavours of ripe red berry fruits,
plum and bell pepper and a leafy herbaceous
edge. Time in the barrel adds complexity, with
supple tannins and light oak following through
on the finish.
Vasse Felix 2011
Cabernet Merlot
750mL Bottle $2299
This generous, elegant and
structured Margaret River
wine displays savoury regional
characters on the nose. Sweet
paperbark with hints of nori give
way to vibrant, red fruit aromas
of Satsuma plum and candied
raspberry. Oak maturation
provides hints of coffee bean and
grilled almond. Complex plum, red berrry and
nori flavours are followed by a juicy acidity that
combines with dusty, textural tannins for a
long, dry and earthy finish.
medallions of venison with
red cabbage, orange & cinnamon
Image + recipe © StockFood / Gräfe & Unzer Verlag / Bischof, Harry
6 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
white wine with Kingfish
Serves 4 Prep time: 30mins
kingfish ceviche with
fennel & grapefruit salad
2012 Evans & Tate Breathing
Space Pinot Gris
750mL Bottle $1499
This first Pinot Gris produced by
Evans & Tate in Margaret River
has ripe Gris aromas of pear,
lychee and gala apple, with a
touch of tropical fruits. Time on
fresh yeast lees and a touch of
barrel ferment in French oak has
added subtle aromas of fresh
yeast and white bread. Then there’s the long,
richly-flavoured palate with pears, lychee and
apple, continuing on to a dry, refreshing finish.
2013 Knappstein Hand
Picked Reisling
750mL Bottle $1899
This wine has been shaped by a
kind growing season, ideal picking
conditions and careful winemaking.
It displays an aromatic array
of citrus fruits, including lime
and grapefruit, with subtle floral
highlights. The palate retains the
generous citrus notes, balanced
by elements of sweet spices. A crunchy, crisp
acid profile brings it all together in a wine
that’s fantastic to drink now, but will also repay
cellaring for five to eight years.
Method:
1. In a bowl, combine all the
dressing ingredients.
2. Arrange the fish slices on the
plate. Pour dressing over the fish
and refrigerate for 15minutes.
3. Combine fennel, grapefruit,
onion and daikon in a
separate bowl.
4. Place the salad on top of the
kingfish and garnish the plate
with cucumber ribbons, shiso
cress and edible flowers.
2012 Saint Clair Estate
Selection Sauvignon Blanc
750mL Bottle $1699
The fruit for this wine was
sourced from several vineyards
throughout New Zealand’s
Marlborough region and cool
fermented to retain freshness
and zing. The intense aromas of
black currant and passionfruit,
with a hint of gooseberry,
are reflected on the palate. A
pleasant herbaceous thread leads to a long,
lingering finish. This is a perfect wine for
drinking immediately and will be at its best
over the next two years.
Ingredients:
- 4 fennel bulbs, shaved
- 2 grapefruit
- 1 red onion, thinly sliced
- 1 daikon (Japanese white radish), julienned
For the dressing:
- 200ml olive oil extra virgin
- 20ml white balsamic vinegar
- 20ml mirin
- 2 lime, juiced
- 2 red chili, finely diced, no seeds.
- Salt
For the garnish:
- Lebanese cucumber , cut into ribbons
- Edible flowers
- Shiso cress
Image + recipe © Denman Cellars Beer Café / Deca, Zibby
autumn issue 2014. 7
supplier feature
the history of the burge family and their long association with winemaking in barossa can be traced back to march 1855, when noted tailor john burge immigrated to australia from hillcot, in wiltshire, england with his wife eliza and their two sons. john worked as a winemaker at hillside vineyards, and his love of viticulture was passed onto his son meshach, who continued the tradition making his first wine in 1865, whilst becoming a prominent community leader.
Meshach married Emma in 1883 and they
had eight children. First-born Percival
established the Wilsford Winery near Lyndoch
in 1928. Percival had two sons, Noel and
Colin, and Colin and his wife Nancy had one
son, Grant. Colin’s son spent his boyhood
immersed in the wine industry, watching
his father and grandfather build respected
wine businesses and learning traditional
winemaking techniques.
Today, Grant Burge is a fifth-generation
Barossa vigneron and winemaker who
has–throughout his career–been one of the
most respected and innovative forces in the
Australian wine industry.
Over the years, the techniques Grant learned
in his early years have served him well in
his winemaking endeavours, as it is his firm
belief that to be a great winemaker you need
to understand the relationship between the
vineyard and wine, and that this knowledge
can only come from hours spent among
the vines, cultivating the soil and carefully
managing precious water resources.
When he and wife Helen founded Grant
Burge Wines in 1988, it was agreed that the
business would be based on the traditional
values of family, heritage and quality. However,
these traditional foundations have not
hindered Grant Burge Wines development
into one of the most innovative companies in
the Australian wine industry, with cutting edge
winemaking techniques producing wines of
exceptional quality and consistency.
In support of his winemaking expertise, Grant
owns a network of vineyards across the
Barossa and Eden Valley, providing him with
unmatched access to premium quality grapes.
This network includes the famous Filsell
Vineyard, which was planted in the 1920s.
Located between the townships of Lyndoch
and Williamstown, this venerable old vineyard
produces fruit of incredible concentration and
flavour which forms the base of Grant’s iconic
Meshach Shiraz, classified as “Outstanding”
in the Langton’s Classification, giving it
recognition as one of Australia’s great wines.
Continuing the family tradition, Grant and
Helen have now brought the sixth generation
into the fold. Eldest son Toby is the company’s
Vineyard Technical Officer, upholding the
premium quality and consistency of fruit
produced from the vineyards. Daughter
Amelia joined the marketing department in
an assistant role early in 2007, and in late
2008 went out into the world to gain more
experience to bring back to the company later
on in her career. Trent, the youngest has been
part of the hardworking cellar and vineyard
teams and is now gaining experience in winery
operations, grower liaison and promotion. All
three children share Grant and Helen’s vision
to continue this long family tradition of bringing
exceptional wines to the world.
8 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
vineyard range
the grant burge vineyard range has an established brand identity and renowned, reputation for quality and reliability. ultra premium fruit is sourced from individual, historic vineyards in the barossa valley, adelaide hills and eden valley, all showcasing the unique varietal characters of these special terroirs and microclimates.
miamba shiraz
750mL Bottle $1999
This outstanding Barossa wine has vibrant
aromas and flavours of dark fruits, blueberries,
mocha and savoury spices. With a proportion
of the wine fermented in European oak barrels,
the style and structure has evolved to become
more refined with fine, silky tannins and a long,
elegant finish.
Food Match: Peppercorn steak or
barbecued meats.
summers chardonnay
750mL Bottle $1999
An elegant wine displaying all of the classic
traits of cool climate Chardonnay; bright gold,
with delicate aromas of citrus, white peaches
and spice and fruit flavours integrated with
lime acidity and a hint of creaminess. The
supreme balance of this wine creates superb
length of flavour and refinement.
Food Match: Roasted pork loin, char-grilled
chicken and creamy fish dishes.
autumn issue 2014. 9
Luckily for Craig, his true passion lay not in the
heady atmosphere of the sports arena, but
in the rolling plains of the bountiful Barossa
Valley, where he had grown up. Interestingly
for a local boy, he was the first in his family to
be involved in the wine industry. But in 1983,
at his first job as a cellar-hand at the historic
Seppeltsfield Winery, he found his calling.
“After tasting DP90 (Seppelt’s famous Tawny)
under the old date palms at ten thirty in the
morning on my first day, I suddenly found
some direction in my life,” says Craig, “and
I feel very lucky to have ended up spending
near on 30 years in this industry. I am part of
making a product that people can share and
discuss–and if you like, turn it into a great
passion. I do get excited when people want
to talk to me about the wine we make, or any
wine really.”
Ten years later, Craig joined Grant Burge
Wines as Cellar Manager, and such was his
passion and skill that within four years, he was
Senior Winemaker. His contribution over the
last three decades to some of that label’s–and
Australia’s–finest wines is acknowledged at
the winery that has defined his career. It’s
expressed through the wines that define Grant
Burge: Meshach, Shadrach, Filsell and The
Holy Trinity.
Of course, Craig is the first to acknowledge
the influence of Grant Burge himself. “Grant
has been my main influence,” says Craig. “He
has taught me the importance of attention to
detail and the importance of good planning.
It might seem like boring stuff but I believe in
karma! He has also taught me some pretty
cool winemaking stuff, but in the end as a
winemaker I think you are your own person.”
Craig travels extensively in his role at
Grant Burge and, as such, is a passionate
ambassador for the Barossa. “I think most
wine regions have something special about
them, but when you come to the Barossa
you do get a sense of a long history of grape
growing and winemaking,” he says. “I love the
fact that I can walk into a vineyard which was
planted 100 years ago, and meet a grower
who can talk to me intimately about the
vineyard that his dad or grandpa planted.”
As a vineyard owner himself, Craig has an in
depth knowledge of the factors that contribute
to the unique nature of any particular region,
and particularly Barossa Valley. “What makes
the wines different is all related to mother
nature, soil and climate. We are pretty lucky
here, we don’t seem to get a lot of disease
and we don’t have trouble getting ripeness, so
the wines are generous and great to drink.”
Extensive travel has also allowed Craig
to sample wines from many local and
international regions, and an exceptional
palate has put him in a position to be highly
sought after as a judge around the country. He
has served as Associate Judge at the Barossa
Wine Show and the National Wine Show
in Canberra, and sat on tasting panels for
Winestate Magazine and the Australian Wine
Research Institute.
When asked which regions outside the
Barossa most impress him at the moment,
Craig nominates Tasmanian wines. “Apart from
being a beautiful part of the world, there are
many areas down there that grow great fruit,
and many areas that have not been planted
that will grow great fruit,” he says. “And
outside Australia, I enjoy the wines of Spain. I
was lucky enough to spend some time there
last year. I really enjoyed the Tempranillo from
Rioja and Ribera de Duero, and the Grenache
from Priorat. The people are great and have a
similar sense of humour to us Aussies.”
Apart from being the driving force behind
Grant Burge, Craig has been keeping
himself busy with his own vineyard, which
he purchased around 15 years ago. “In the
late 90s, I was searching around for that
piece of perfect dirt I could plant up, and in
for many of us, profession and passion do not always correlate, and being able to earn a living from doing that thing which you love is a somewhat rare experience. it is one usually reserved for famous sports people or entertainers, but occasionally becomes a reality for the rest of us. usually, you need to be able to match your obsession with unusually rare talent. according to barossa valley wine-maker craig stansborough, this was not the case when, as a young man, he fantasized about his life as an afl player. “i should have being playing professionally but for a few simple things,” he says jokingly, “like being too slow, too short and having an overall lack of ability!”
His Passionate Career
winemaker feature
10 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
“ I am part of making a product that people can share and discuss... I do get excited when people want to talk to me about the wine we make, or any wine really.”
2000 I found a fantastic 52 acre piece of land
in the Southern Barossa, not far from the
Whispering Wall reservoir. I proceeded to plant
some Shiraz, and have recently planted a few
acres of Montepulciano and v for something
different,” he says. “As many would know, it
has not made me a lot of money, but I do get
a kick out of growing some really smart fruit.”
Perhaps Craig is being a little modest.
Around six years ago, he and good mate
Mark Slade set up Purple Hands Wines to
market the spoils of the vineyard’s harvest,
and they’re making waves with what are
being described by none other than wine guru
James Halliday as ‘single vineyard wines of
remarkable elegance’.
It will be interesting to see how Purple
Hands develops, given this type of glowing
endorsement. But one can be sure it’s in good
hands, as is Grant Burge. Craig predicts that
the trend will move toward wines that have
less oak and less alcohol, with consumers
not so fixated about colour, but concentrating
on texture. Whatever it is, we can be sure
that he will be at the forefront, thankful that
his passion has become his career, AFL
dreams notwithstanding.
autumn issue 2014. 11
supplier feature
12 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
it was the slogan to launch a winemaking legacy. yet it harks back to a time when penfolds wine was more likely to be consumed by a patient with anaemia than by a bon vivant. dr christopher rawson penfold was a british-trained medical practitioner who emigrated to south australia in 1844 with a carefully selected stock of french vine cuttings. the wines that he and his wife mary began producing on their magill estate in adelaide were initially prescribed as a tonic.
This year marks the 170th anniversary of
Penfolds, and wines bearing the famous label
have been enjoyed by many generations of
perfectly healthy Australians. They’ve also
made a big impression overseas. In 1995,
Robert Parker, the world’s most influential
wine critic, wrote in his self-published
newsletter The Wine Advocate that Penfolds’
famous Grange was “a leading candidate for
the richest, most concentrated dry table wine
on planet earth.”
Grange (originally Grange Hermitage) was
a “secret bottling” back in 1951. It was an
example of Penfolds’ spirit of experimentation
and innovation. For 170 years, Penfolds
has cultivated a reputation on winemaking
excellence, achieved through a unique
alchemy of distinguished vineyards and
viticultural caretakers, exceptional winemaking
resources and a rich history of outstanding
winemakers. These master craftsmen and
women have been the custodians of the
Penfolds stable.
And while tradition is important, Penfolds
doesn’t stand still. The recently released Bin
Series, for example, includes a new wine,
designated as Bin 9. The Bin Series is at the
heart of Penfolds and takes inspiration from
legendary winemaker Max Schubert’s Bin 1,
which became Grange.
Bin 9 Cabernet Sauvignon has been crafted
by the Penfolds winemaking team using
grapes from vineyards across South Australia
with a significant portion sourced from the
ancient soils of McLaren Vale. The first vintage
was made at Penfolds’ Nuriootpa winery
in 2012.
“It was an interesting year for winemaking,”
says Peter Gago, Penfolds’ Chief Winemaker.
“We had less winter rain than usual in most
parts of South Australia and the summer was
mild, with a few short bursts of heat. Because
of the mild daytime temperatures and cool
evenings during the ripening period, we saw
impressive flavour development and the fruit
was picked in optimal conditions.”
The result is a contemporary style of Cabernet
that’s good drinking now but, in the tradition
of the Bin wines, will become more complex
with bottle age. Peter describes the wine as
having aromas of blackcurrant, green olive and
roasted red peppers, with mixed spice, cedar
and rosewood notes from the oak hogsheads.
He sees roasted meats and spicy chorizo on
the palate, with a savoury tannin profile.
Another contemporary red in the Bin Series,
the 2011 Bin 8 Cabernet Shiraz, is described
by Peter as “one to watch”. He believes it
may give the previous year’s Bin 8 “a bit
of competition”.
The Bin 8 series was introduced in response
to an interest in Cabernet Shiraz styles. This
classic Australian wine style has, Penfolds
say, caught the attention of the international
wine media. There’s a story behind the Bin 8
name. Although Bin numbers were originally
named after the original binning location
after bottling, this wine was given its number
because it’s matured in older oak previously
used for Bin 128, Bin 28 and Bin 389. The
number 8 provides the common thread – and,
fortuitously, it’s seen by many as a particularly
lucky number.
Here’s how Peter Gago describes the nose of
the 2011 Bin 8:
“It’s an instantly recognisable Cabernet Shiraz
aromatic propulsion, with Cabernet notes
more prominent than Shiraz at this stage, i.e.
black olive, graphite and red-berried fruits. It’s
not quite that simple, however, with anchovy,
crackling and meat salt Shiraz complexities
lurking in the background. Oh, and a modicum
of musk to add further intrigue.” The palate, he
says, is “verging toward a good, old-fashioned
summer trifle treat”.
It’s taken passion, commitment, courage and
patience to create the Penfolds winemaking
legacy. Over time, what began as innovations
have become the great traditions for new
generations. Today, 170 years from its initial
declaration, that legacy continues and the
house remains one of Australia’s most revered
… now and ‘evermore’.
It’s taken passion, commitment, courage and patience to create the Penfolds winemaking legacy
BIN 9 Cab Sauv 750mL Bottle $3399
BIN 8 Cab Shiraz 750mL Bottle $3999
autumn issue 2014. 13
Bungendore cellars
store profile
what do they
typically buy?
It’s hard to say that one product stands out.
We sell an even spread of beer, wine and
ciders. We sell a lot more wine than most
country outlets, which tend to sell mostly
beers and RTDs. Many of our customers
appreciate a premium wine, and we try to
cater to that.
when is the busiest
time in your store?
The busiest times would be Thursday & Friday
evenings, although the weekends tend to hum
along as well.
what is the most
unusual request
you’ve ever had?
Not really unusual requests, more “out of the
square” requests, like rum from the Hoochery
distillery in Kununurra, Western Australia.
what was the first job
you ever had?
Michael: “My first job was as a trainee stock
& station agent in Alice Springs.”
Sharron: “I was a geology field assistant
at Woodlawn Mines.”
what do you love most
about your job?
We both enjoy talking to our customers. Being
a small community we tend to know most
of our customers, so interaction with them
seems important. Questions like “how was
your day” or “how did the kids enjoy the first
day of school” are commonplace here.
what’s your favourite
end of week
autumn beverage?
We are both venturing into the world of pinots
right now. Really enjoying Waipara Way Pinot.
what is the question
you get asked most
by customers?
Primarily, customers know what they are
looking for as far as beers or spirits go. They
do ask our advice on wines however, and
mostly about food and wine matching.
who are some of
your regulars?
We have an eclectic range of customers.
Bungendore is quite diverse, with rural
workers and tradies, defence and military
personnel, arty types, musos and affluent
retirees all living in the community. Of course
we also get the Canberra folks that come
through on weekend drives, or on their way to
the coast.
michael and sharron blore have been at the helm of bungendore cellars for the last 14 years. sharron is a local girl–born and bred in bungendore–who was previously involved in hospitality, having worked in a number of establishments, the most notable being bungendore’s well-known carrington. michael has embedded himself in the local community since marrying sharron 20 years ago. originally from western new south wales, the former cattle farmer now proudly calls bungendore home.
“Being a small community we tend
to know most of our customers...”
14 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
Winemaker Chris Hancock has been immersed in wine for the Oatley family over three decades. He agrees with his long time friend, mentor and Four-in-Hand driver Bob Oatley, that, above all, wine must be a ‘good drink’. As with a master coachman, Chris has honed his winemaking skills with years of experience. Wines such as this superb Shiraz require a thorough knowledge of every detail and constant practice to perfect.
In addition, much patience and perseverance is required. Steely courage to reject all but the �nest fruit. Steady hands to guide the winemaking team. A light touch to let the characteristics of both fruit and terroir speak for themselves. And �nally, the patience and perseverance to let the wines mature and develop.
Winemaker’s Tasting Note: Having set out to make a mid-weight style of Shiraz that shows de�nitive regional typicity, we’re very pleased with the result. With moderate alcohol and very supple oak in�uence, Barossa dark fruits and black chocolate characters rise to the forer, it’s generous and appealing, with soft, �ne powdery tannins and lovely length of �avour. Enjoyable immediately upon release and will cellar comfortably for 5-7 years.
supplier feature
Dutch traders brought sugar cane from
Brazil in 1640, and the island’s rich soil and
favourable wet season proved ideal for its
cultivation. Soon Barbados was divided into
large plantation estates, with owners who had
connections with the English aristocracy. A by-
product of their lucrative sugar industry was
another vital commodity – rum.
According to local historians, rum was being
made on the site of what is now the Mount
Gay distillery early as 1667. However, the
earliest written evidence of rum production
at what was then known as Mount Gilboa is
a legal document dated 20th February 1703.
It lists the property and the equipment found
on it, including: “Two stone windmills... one
boiling house with seven coppers, one curing
house and one still house.” This makes Mount
Gay Rum the oldest in Barbados and, even
more significantly, the world.
Enter our baronet. John Gay Alleyne was born
in Barbados, a descendent of the first settlers.
He served in the Barbados Parliament and
was for many years Speaker in the House
of Assembly. As a reward for his service, he
was created Baronet of Four Hills in the Island
of Barbados.
Sir John’s day job, however, was making rum
on the Mount Gilboa plantation. The owner, a
gentleman with the wildly inappropriate name
of John Sober, appointed him as manager
of the plantation and distillery in 1747. So
successful was the business under Alleyne’s
management that, upon his death in 1801,
the grateful Sober family added his middle
name to their label and the Mount Gay brand
was born.
Mount Gay Rum is the product of over
300 years of knowledge, experience and
refinement applied to the process of making
rum. The island of Barbados provides the
perfect raw ingredients. Water is drawn from
the coral-filtered groundwater deep beneath
the island, then filtered three times for
additional purity. Then there’s the molasses.
Barbadian sugar is among the finest in the
world, yielding exceptional molasses. By the
18th century, Barbadian molasses was known
as “Black Gold” because of the additional
revenue it provided after the process of refining
crystallised sugar from sugar cane.
The molasses and coral filtered water are
combined with Mount Gay Rum’s proprietary
strain of yeast. After distilling in traditional
double copper pot stills the rum is matured
in charred white oak barrels. These days,
through an agreement with the makers of Jim
Beam, these are barrels which previously held
American whiskey. At Mount Gay, blending
has become a true craft. Master blender Allen
Smith holds sway over the craft of blending,
and an individual batch of Mount Gay Rum
contains dozens of different distillates.
Today, the distinctive red and yellow Mount
Gay signs are everywhere on Barbados and
Mount Gay Rums are enjoyed around the
world. It’s a testament to the work of an 18th
century baronet and a happy decision by a
man named Sober.
barbados, in the caribbean, has a multicultural past. it was discovered and named by the portuguese. they called it barbados (meaning “bearded ones”) because of the lush, “bearded” trees that covered the island. but they didn’t stay. in 1627, the island was first settled by the english and quickly became the largest english settlement in the new world. it took the dutch, though, to introduce the crop that transformed the island’s society and economy.
how an english aristocrat gave his name to the world’s oldest rum
16 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
mount gay eclipse
700mL Bottle $3799
This full bodied rum brings floral and fruity notes of apricot, banana and
vanilla on the nose before a palate of subtle smokiness from ageing in
toasted Kentucky oak barrels, it offers a warm, medium body with a
bright finish. Try with fresh lime and cola or with a timeless rum runner.
mount gay silver
700mL Bottle $3799
The perfect base for a refreshing Mojito, this clean and aromatic rum
offers a balanced, mellow harmony of sugar cane syrup and banana,
infused with notes of peppermint and citrus.
Mount Gay Rum is the product of over 300 years of knowledge,
experience and refinement
autumn issue 2014. 17
region feature
the story of the hunter valley is the story of the australian wine industry. without taking away anything from the great regions of south australia such as barossa and coonawarra, and the number of quality regions around the country, hunter valley’s status perhaps slightly edges those of the others, and for two reasons. firstly, the hunter is australia’s oldest wine country. and secondly, its cultivation of the semillon grape has put it on the world map as the primary exponent of this particular variety.
The beginnings of wine production in the
Hunter–and indeed Australia–are credited to
James Busby, widely considered the founder
of the Australian wine industry. In 1828, he
returned from Europe with clippings from
French, Spanish and English vineyards, and
proceeded to plant them in his property,
Kirkton. While Busby moved to New Zealand
ten years later, his vines prospered under the
care of brother-in-law William Kelman. Other
pioneers include George Wyndham, who
planted vines at Dalwood in 1830 (possibly
from Busby’s clippings) and James King who
made his first wine in 1835 from vines planted
in 1832. By 1843, Dr Henry Lindeman had
planted his first vines, and by the 1860s, he
and Wyndham had established an agency in
Sydney for the sale of their wines.
By the turn of the century, a number of factors
came into play to put the brakes on the
Hunter’s growth. Most of those early vineyards
no longer exist, the earliest vineyard now being
Steven’s Old Patch, which dates to 1867.
The bank crash of the 1890s and federation
combined to affect a drop in wine production.
The former for the financing difficulties and
the expected drop in demand, and the latter
because the lifting of customs duties between
states in the new commonwealth resulted
in cheaper product flowing in from South
Australia. The First World War, an outbreak of
the vine disease downy mildew and the Great
Depression added to the woes of the region;
and wine production declined substantially,
before experiencing substantial growth again
from the late 60s onward.
Paradoxically, it was during these leaner years
that one of the first nationally recognised wine
labels appeared, heralding the start of the
Semillon grape’s hegemony in the Hunter.
A Sydney winemaker and merchant by the
name of Leo Buring took advantage of the
tough times and purchased substantial stock
from a then ailing Lindemans. Under the name
Leo Buring Rinegolde, Hunter Valley Semillon
became one of the most popular wines in the
country, and ultimately led to the development
of this purely Australian style.
For whatever reason, and a little perplexing
considering the early preference for sweeter
fortified wines rather than dry whites, Hunter
Valley winemakers like Buring chose to treat
it differently than the French, misleadingly
marketing it as Riesling. Nonetheless over the
years, winemakers Lindemans (having fully
recovered and in a twist of fate, purchased
Leo Buring’s winery after his death), Tulloch,
McWilliam’s and Tyrrell’s dropped any
reference to the term Riesling in favour of the
correct name, consequently cultivating a wine
considered unique to Australia.
While Chardonnay–amongst the original
clippings planted by James Busby–is the
most prolific of grapes grown in Australia,
and Aussie Shiraz has created such a stir
over the last few decades that even overseas
labels are now changing their names from the
traditional ‘Syrah’, they remain grapes that do
what is expected of them. The Hunter Valley
Semillon on the other hand, has redefined
and reinvented itself to the point that it stands
alone as a style, worthy of emulation across
the world.
One of only three grape varieties approved
for the Bordeaux region, this grape has been
traditionally used in France to make the
sweeter Sauternes, blended with Muscadelle
and Sauvignon Blanc; and rarely do the
French use it on its own as a dry table wine.
In the Hunter’s warm climate, Semillon
is picked much earlier than its French
counterpart, resulting in a wine of low alcohol,
buttercup-yellow in colour, that is crisp with
abundant aromas of lemon and lime, a long
finish and soft acid. Hunter Valley Semillon is
more often a dry wine, developing burnt toast,
vanilla and honey flavours as it ages, giving
it depth and richness. It can mature for two
decades, but is considered best at around
eight to ten years.
Although Semillon is the grape that has put
the Hunter Valley on the world stage, there
is much diversity in the wine plantings of the
region. Today, styles and varieties include
the aforementioned Chardonnay and Shiraz,
along with Verdelho, Merlot and Cabernet
Sauvignon. Some of the grandest names in
Australian wine make the Hunter their home,
along with newer labels that are consolidating
their place alongside them. Many offer cellar
door services as well as sophisticated dining
and tourism experiences that befit the Hunter’s
status as a great wine region. It’s come a
long way from those pioneering years, and
also from the tougher times that the region
experienced in the interim, but ultimately, it’s
impossible to speak of Aussie wines without
acknowledging the contributions of the
Hunter Valley.
18 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
Valley of the Lost Vinesit may not be immediately apparent to the casual observer, but hunter valley is not only home to australia’s oldest vineyards, it is also the
natural heir to thousands of years of european wine cultivation.
Almost one hundred and fifty years ago–and
around forty years after the first vines were
planted in the Hunter with pure and ancient
clippings–a great calamity befell the wine
growing regions of Europe. A little insect with
an insatiable appetite for vine roots made its
way from the New World to the Old, and in
doing so, wreaked havoc on vineyards across
the continent. The culprit was Phylloxera, an
almost microscopic insect that perforates the
root of vines it feeds on, infecting them with a
poisonous secretion, thereby killing the plants,
and no doubt giving Europeans one more
reason to look upon Americans with disdain.
Within a few decades, over two thirds of
Europe’s vines had been destroyed, and
wine production was reduced by around 90
percent. A number of methods, some more
successful than others–including but not
limited to the burying of live toads in the soil to
‘take up the poison’ had been put into place
to save what was left.
Ultimately, the practice of grafting rootstock
from the more resilient native American vines
became the most common defence for
this affliction. It remains so today, thankfully
ensuring the wellbeing of countless millions of
toads, but ultimately casting a shadow on the
‘Europeanness’ of the modern vines.
How Europe saved its wine industry is
perhaps a story for another time, but ironically,
this catastrophic event made the vines of
Australia–a land hardly rating a mention for
wine production at the time–among the oldest
in the world. Like some kind of Steve Bradbury
of wine production, vineyards in some of
Australia’s most productive wine areas skated
freely past the fallen to score highly in the
pedigree stakes.
Eventually Phylloxera also arrived in Australia,
but the soils of many of the local wine growing
regions of this somewhat inhospitable land
were deemed an unsuitable habitat by this
discerning insect, and therefore survived the
devastation. Among them, of course, was the
Hunter Valley. Consequently, the first vines of
this region carry an unbroken lineage, sole
descendants of ancient French and Spanish
vines no longer in existence.
autumn issue 2014. 19
The first of those is Maurice O’Shea. In
1921 O’Shea was just 24 years old. The
son of an Irish father and a French mother,
he had already spent seven years in France
completing studies in viticulture and oenology.
Returning to Australia, he persuaded his
widowed mother to buy the Hunter Valley
property that he named Mount Pleasant.
The Hunter is often called the cradle of the
Australian wine industry. Vines were first
planted there in around 1823. From these
beginnings, the Hunter Valley flourished, with
several families establishing vineyards in the
area. Today, it’s certainly one of Australia’s
most well-known wine regions, producing
many fine, internationally-recognised wines.
In the Pokolbin area of the Hunter, nestled
beneath the Brokenback Range, Maurice
O’Shea planted vineyards that have become
familiar names to wine-lovers: first Old
Paddock then, in later years, Rosehill and
Lovedale. These great vineyards continue to
produce some of the best fruit in the country,
forming the basis of some of Mount Pleasant’s
most iconic wines, including the Lovedale
Semillon and Rosehill Shiraz. The first wines
were made by the light of a gas lantern – the
luxury of electricity was still some years away.
Maurice O’Shea’s blending techniques and
sophisticated use of oak – skills he’d honed
in his time in France – were credited with
producing red table wines of enormous
flavour, intensity and longevity. The McWilliam
family, led by Keith McWilliam, recognised the
talent and potential of this great winemaker. In
1932 they joined forces with Maurice O’Shea
by purchasing 50 per cent of the winery,
acquiring the remaining share in 1941. O’Shea
continued as wine-maker and, more than half
a century later, his wines from the 1940s and
early 1950s continue to display the character
for which their maker was renowned.
Maurice died in 1956 but his ground-breaking
work was kept alive by revered winemakers
Brian Walsh (1956-1978) and Phil Ryan (1978-
2012). The winery is today one of the most
awarded in Australia, having been awarded an
incredible five Championships, 128 trophies,
500 gold, 500 silver and 1104 bronze medals
since the late 1970s.
The 2000 vintage of Mount Pleasant Maurice
O’Shea Shiraz outscored Penfolds Grange
and Henschke Hill of Grace to be the highest-
rated Shiraz in the 2005 edition of James
Halliday’s Australian Wine Companion. In
2008, Mount Pleasant was named Australia’s
Winery of the Year and in 2009 Chief
Winemaker Phil Ryan was officially appointed
a Living Legend of the Hunter Valley.
With Ryan’s retirement, Jim Chatto takes
up the mantle. “Mount Pleasant’s place in
the story of Australian wine is significant,”
Mount Pleasant
jim chatto is a man with a lot to live up to. last year, he took over as chief winemaker at the mount pleasant winery in the lower hunter. he’s just the fourth person to hold this position in the winery’s 93-year history and he’s walking in the shoes of some legendary figures.
In the steps of giants
Chatto says. “I’ve had the rare privilege of
tasting some great O’Shea wines, so I’m
aware of the gravitas the role carries and the
enormous responsibility to honour the legacy
of Maurice O’Shea and the individuality of
each Mount Pleasant site.”
Chatto joins McWilliam’s from Pepper Tree
wines, where he had held the position of Chief
Winemaker since 2007. During this time he
was named 2009 Hunter Valley Winemaker
of the Year, as well as being a 2010 Gourmet
Traveller Winemaker of the Year finalist. With
20 vintages of Hunter Valley winemaking under
his belt, Jim is also a senior wine show judge
with over 14 years’ experience across both
regional and capital city shows. He has been
Chairman of Judges at the Hunter Valley Wine
Show since 2012.
More than 90 years on from Maurice O’Shea’s
first vintages using basic tools and a simple
basket press, the equipment has evolved and
new faces have emerged. But the winemaking
philosophy and the vineyards at Mount
Pleasant remain the same. A passionate
Hunter Valley advocate, Chatto says he is
looking forward to working with the famous
Mount Pleasant vineyards. “My philosophy will
be to proudly make Hunter wines of longevity,
purity and freshness, true to their region and
true to their site,” he says.
supplier feature
20 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
“Mount Pleasant’s place in the story of Australian
wine is significant”
Maurice O’shea
Elizabeth Semillon 750mL Bottle $1499
Philip Shiraz 750mL Bottle $1499
Elizabeth Aged Semillon 750mL Bottle $1899
Jim Chatto
autumn issue 2014. 21
matilda bay minimum chips golden lager
Minimum Chips is the ideal autumn brew – a unique, seasonal-inspired golden lager. While
many premium lagers are malt driven, Minimum Chips is differentiated by its distinctive hop
bitterness and crisp, full taste. It’s an all-malt lager; using Centennial hops to produce floral/citrus
hop aromas and flavours with a mild, malty palate. This beer lends itself to the great Australian
tradition of enjoying fresh seafood with a refreshing cleanser to match (hence the reference to
the classic fish & chip shop order). Minimum Chips is also ideal for any occasion as a versatile
all-round beer with plenty packed in.
byo feature
as the last of the warm weather says goodbye, there is no cause for sadness because autumn brings the promise of that most cherished of male traditions: a cold beer with your mates while watching the footy! but inviting the lads around for an impromptu bonding session doesn’t mean that you are limited to the same old selection of blokey brews you may be accustomed to. the range of boutique style beers is growing every year, and this season, it may be a good idea to go for something a little more ‘fancy’. your mates won’t take the mickey. in fact, they will probably let out an extra cheer in honour of your fine taste.
endeavour vintage beers
The Endeavour Vintage Beer people will tell you they are “three blokes having a go, who love beer.” One
of those blokes, Andy Stewart, is an experienced brewer who believes that –just like wines– Endeavour
Vintage Beers reflect the growing seasons they’re made in. A tribute to Australian artisan hop and
barley growers, they are high quality traditional ales using the finest ingredients, carefully selected from
growing regions that experienced the best conditions in a given year. Both Endeavour True Vintage Pale
Ale and Endeavour True Vintage Amber Ale demonstrate the Endeavour style – balanced, elegant and
approachable with a superb long lasting finish.
matso’s mango beer
Matso’s, in Broome, is the Kimberley’s award winning microbrewery, and a true Western Australia
treasure. The northwestern brewing maestros produce some of Australia’s premier craft beers,
including Pearlers Pale Ale, Smokey Bishop Dark Lager and a Premium Ginger Beer. Their famous
Mango Beer is based on a classic Belgium Blonde recipe. Using a 100% natural mango blend,
the brewers have developed an easy-drinking beer style with amazing fruit aromas balanced
out with sweet dryness. This great little beer has strong mango aromas with a light honey malt
presence. It’s just as refreshing down south as in its tropical birthplace.
ideas for boy’s night in
4pk $1699
6pk $1999
6pk $1699
22 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
okay ladies, we admit it. we’ve egged the boys on and probably ruined your friday night or saturday afternoon. but don’t hate on us. rather, treat it as an opportunity to get the girls together and have the night off in your favourite cheap n’ cheerful or that swanky new place you’ve been hearing about but haven’t had the chance to visit. let those boys of yours have their man-time, grab one of these fine drops from your nearest local liquor and make a night of it.
2012 climbing pinot gris
The dormant volcano Mount Canobolas dominates the landscapes around Orange and is the
source of the rich soils that shape the character of Cumulus Estate wines. Sourced from the
higher elevations of the estate, above 600m, this wine is a classic example of the Pinot Gris style.
Following the aromas of fresh Granny Smith apples, pear honey and citrus comes a palate of
well-weighted fruit and flavours of honey, apple, pear and orange peel. It’s a tightly structured
wine with a crisp finish. Drink it now while it’s fresh and lively, to accompany seafood, light pasta
dishes or cheese.
2013 pike’s “traditionale” riesling
This is the 29th release of this much loved Clare Valley Riesling. It makes a lovely drink as a crisp,
young white wine – the perfect wine with oysters. However, it will easily improve in the bottle for
six to 10 years or more if you like Riesling with a little bottle age. It’s The nose is fresh and bright,
displaying layers of lemon/lime zest, tropical fruit and subtle nuances of mineral and wet slate, all
of which are reflected in the palate. The flavours are tightly woven around a core of bright acidity
providing length and drive to the soft, dry finish.
moppity vineyards 2012 estate tumbarumba chardonnay
A brilliant and pure expression of modern Australian Chardonnay, with a nod to the great wines of
the Burgundy region. Sourced from Tumbarumba’s iconic Coppabella Vineyard, this wine points
to Chardonnay’s future direction in Australia, with its poise, restraint and finely chiseled detail.
Winner of two gold medals!
. . .or a girl’s night out
750mL Bottle $2199
750mL Bottle $1999
750mL Bottle $1999
autumn issue 2014. 23
new product spotlight
New Product Spotlight
700mL Bottle $3999
Bulldog Gin’s distinctive bottle, complete with spiked dog collar, tells
you that this is a gin that defies convention. It was conceived with a
new attitude and approach to the traditionally conservative world of
super-premium gin. Bulldog is still made by the traditional copper pot
method of London dry gin production, but the difference lies in the
taste. Dubbed a “new-world-style gin” and named the “world’s most
mixable gin” by Wine Enthusiast Magazine, it’s infused with twelve rare
and distinctive botanicals from countries across the globe. They include
lotus leaves, lavender and dragon eye (a cousin to the lychee and once
thought of as an aphrodisiac).
And if you think gin is just a summer drink, think again. True to its
reputation as a good mixer, Bulldog goes down well in some special
cold-weather cocktails. The website, bulldoggin.com has some
tempting ideas, including the London Mule (equal parts Bulldog and
Ginger Beer, garnished with lime) or the Prince Toddy (a mix that
includes hot apple cider, honey, mint leaves and spices). Go on.
We dare you.
4pk $2199
Jack Daniel knew a thing or two about quality and craftsmanship.
And people all over the world have been enjoying the fruits of his labour
since 1866. Now Double Jack delivers the authentic taste of Tennessee
whiskey in a new combination, expertly mixing a double shot of classic
Jack Daniel’s Old No.7 with just the right amount of cola. The extra shot
makes it a bolder pre-mix, with an alcohol content of 6.9%. Let’s be
honest – it’s probably more like the Jack and cola you’d mix at home,
but in a convenient can that chills down fast.
You’ll enjoy the distinctive aromas of Jack Daniel’s accented by sweet
cola spice notes and, on the palate, the perfect mix of premium whiskey,
toasted oak and sweet subtle notes of cinnamon and citrus. Double
Jack finishes smooth with the timeless combination of everyone’s
favourite cola and authentic Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey.
not your grandfather’s gin
the quintessential taste of tennessee
Double Jack delivers the authentic taste of
Tennessee whiskey in a new combination
This is a gin that defies convention.
autumn issue 2014. 25
Thomas claimed that the quality of his beer
set it apart from other colonial ales. “There are
some half dozen breweries besides ours in
and about Adelaide, but they all use a good
deal of sugar and so on for brewing, but we
use only malt and hops, consequently, ours
being pure, the doctors recommend it to all
their patients,” he wrote to his brother.
Coopers Brewery has changed – it’s now
the largest Australian-owned brewery with
state-of-the art facilities. But some things
have remained the same. Coopers is still in
family hands and successive generations of
the Cooper family have continued to grow
the business by brewing fine ales, stouts and
lagers in the natural, traditional way.
There were plenty of family members to
continue the tradition. Thomas fathered
nineteen children during two marriages,
although only nine of his children survived
him. Dr Tim Cooper, the current Managing
Director and Chief Brewer, is a fifth generation
descendent from Thomas’s second marriage.
“Dr Tim”, as he’s known in the company,
is particularly proud of the premium beers
that bear the name of the founder. Artisan
Reserve Pilsner is the latest craft release in
the brewery’s Thomas Cooper’s Selection of
premium beers, joining the recently successful
brand, Celebration Ale.
“This beer lives up to the true meaning of
‘Artisan’,” he says. “It reflects the skill of our
supplier feature
when thomas cooper made his first beer in adelaide in 1862, all beer was essentially ‘craft beer’. thomas did everything himself, purchasing the ingredients, brewing and bottling the beer at his norwood home, and delivering to his customers. at the same time, he ran a milking herd and
dairy, with daily milk deliveries.
brewers. They’ve pushed the boundaries of
the ancient art of beer-making to create an
unpasteurised product with the freshest taste
possible. Of course, we have decades of
experience in producing naturally conditioned
ales which means we give detailed
attention to best practice in fermentation,
maturation and pack.”
As a pre-requisite to the craft credentials of
the premium Thomas Cooper’s Selection, the
brewing team carefully selected the purest and
best ingredients available. To give the beer
complexity of flavour it has a blend of four hop
varieties. To create an authentic Pilsner, two of
these are well-known German hop varieties,
namely Hallertau Tradition and Hallertau
Hersbrucker, both sourced from the famous
He was brewing ‘craft beer’ before anyone
called it ‘craft beer’.
26 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
“We wrote the book on ales.
Now we’ve added a chapter.”
– Dr Tim Cooper
hop growing region of Bavaria. And what are
the other two? “We’re deliberately keeping
that confidential,” says Tim. “We want to
ensure the beer’s originality, and to stop others
from imitating us. Let’s just say that these two
‘secret herbs and spices’ provide the support
and balance for the German hop varieties to
give the beer some pretty special citrusy and
flowery hop characters.”
A traditional Pilsner like this needs an
extended process of cool fermentation and
maturation to develop the clean crisp flavour.
Coopers have used a specially selected
Tuborg strain of lager yeast to carry out the
fermentation, to develop less of the sulphur
notes and more of the positive subtle ester
and fruit undertones. These flavours are further
enhanced in maturation tanks where the yeast
augments the conditioning of the beer.
Malted two-row spring barley is the only grist
ingredient used for Artisan Reserve Pilsner.
It is an unadulterated all-malt brew requiring
no addition of liquid sugar or other adjuncts.
Thomas Cooper would be proud.
An alcohol of 5.5% ranks this higher than most
other lager beers of its type in the market, so
it has the aroma and taste of a fuller strength
beer. A higher level of bitterness balances the
alcohol and the malty residual sweetness. It
is bright, clear, golden yellow in colour with
an appetising soft and creamy head. First
impressions are of freshly cut citrus, lime and
orange peel, followed by the crispy palate with
balanced malt character.
Savour a glass or two and enjoy this new
chapter in the Thomas Cooper’s Selection
of premium beers. And celebrate the fact
that a dedicated brewing family has kept
the story alive.
6pk $1799
autumn issue 2014. 27
supplier feature
the name 'the apple thief' is an apple grower's inside joke - the finest apples sit at the top of the trees and the birds, able to smell this fertile fruit from miles away, swoop down and try to steal the best apples from the growers. the quirky name inspired the beautiful packaging: a black 330ml bottle, designed to protect the integrity of the fruit enabling the apple thief to stand out in a crowded cider market. all 3 variants are also available in 50 litre kegs.
The Apple Thief Cider is a locally produced,
premium boutique craft cider originating
from Batlow, NSW at the base of the Snowy
Mountains. The Apple Thief focuses on
showcasing the quality Batlow apples and
pears with their single varietal flavours - Pink
Lady, Granny Smith and William Pear ciders.
The owner and brewer, Dave Purcell, was
predestined to a career involved with apples
and pears. Dave grew up on the Batlow
farm that has been part of his family for three
generations. Dave was looking for ways to
diversify the family business when in 2009,
he started juicing apples that were being
refused by supermarkets due to superficial
blemishes. His opinion was that, regardless
their blemishes, they were so sweet and juicy
they deserved to be given a chance–in the
form of a chilled cider.
What initially started as a passionate hobby for
Dave soon turned into a business opportunity,
as his friends and family were amazed with
his initial ‘trial’ batches. Ever the entrepreneur,
Dave could see the space within the
burgeoning Australian cider market where The
Apple Thief Cider could make its name.
The Apple Thief ciders are very versatile
and suit many different occasions, from a
refreshing drink on a hot summer’s day or
warmed up with cinnamon, nutmeg and
cloves on a cold winter’s night. The natural
and fresh characteristics make them ideal to
pair with beautiful food.
The Apple Thief Pink Lady matches beautifully
with a slow-roasted pork, whilst the Granny
Smith is ideally paired with fresh King Prawns.
The William Pear is a sensational fit with a
cheese platter to finish off a beautiful meal.
Delicious, all natural and created from freshly
crushed Batlow apples and pears, The Apple
Thief is a cider worth stealing a taste of.
Refreshing in its deliciousness and purity, it
should be the pick of discerning drinkers in
selected restaurants, bars and bottle shops
across Australia.
The natural and fresh characteristics make
them ideal to pair with beautiful food.
The Apple Thief
28 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
The Apple Thief Pink Lady Cider – a deliciously sweet sensation
with a clean medium sweet finish
. . .
The Apple Thief Granny Smith Cider – a tantalizing tart flavor
with a crisp medium dry finish
. . .
The Apple Thief William Pear Cider – a refreshingly fruity taste
with a medium sweet finish
4pk $1399
autumn issue 2014. 29
tasty bite sized morsels of tapas, shared plates and a relaxed approach to eating. this is how we in australia view spanish food. the relaxed approach is a mirror to our aussie lifestyle; so it’s not surprising that we’ve seen an explosion of spanish and spanish-influenced restaurants, cook books and television shows over the last few years.
Tapas and tempranillo: the true tastes of Spain
supplier feature
There are a few stories explaining the origin of
tapas but the most common is that while on
a long trip, King Alfonso had stopped to rest
and he ordered a glass of jerez (sherry). There
was a gusty wind, so the in-keeper served him
his glass of sherry covered by a slice of jamon
to prevent the dirt entering the glass. King
Alfonso apparently liked it and when he asked
for a second glass, he requested another tapa
or “cover” just like the first.
Regardless, as we’ve embraced the delicious
simplicity of tapas we’ve also come to
appreciate the wines that best suit this style
of food. Whites that are full flavoured, vibrant
and without any oak so they match a wide
range of food. Reds based on the famous
Tempranillo, generous but medium-bodied to
allow for easy drinking at lunch or dinner (or
anytime in between!).
Javier Murua makes such wines. His family,
based in Rioja, have been making wine
for over 200 years. The Elefante wines are
sourced from Castilla la Mancha, the setting
of Miguel de Cervantes’ novel Don Quixote.
This is the spiritual heart of Spain, with
rugged plains dotted with windmills, olive
groves and historic cities. Manchego cheese
and full-bodied wines highlight the region’s
famed cuisine.
The range of Elefante wines have become, in
just three years, the top selling Spanish table
wines in this country. They’ve been embraced
by the wine drinking public because of their
bold labels, point of difference and fantastic
value for money. Wine critics too have heaped
praise on Javier’s Elefante wines.
The wines may have Spanish grape varieties
you haven’t previously heard of but, much like
Spanish food in this country, it all comes down
to what it tastes like and at these prices you
can afford to find out for yourself.
Elefante Blanco 750mL Bottle $1399
Elefante Tempranillo Shiraz 750mL Bottle $1399
La Senda Elefante Tempranillo 750mL Bottle $1699
30 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
The range of Elefante wines have become, in just three years, the top selling Spanish table wines in this country.
• A classic cold plate of jamon (different
types available), olives, manchego cheese
and crusty bread. Quince paste optional.
The Spanish are kings of smoked and
cured meat products (although the Italians
might argue!)
• Patatas Bravas are cheap and cheerful.
Bite ized pieces of potato are roasted,
sautéed or deep fried then spiked with
some chilli (the reason for brava) and served
with a thick tomato sauce cooked with bay
leaves and onion. There’s usually some
garlicky aioli (garlic flavoured mayonnaise)
on the side too.
• Gambas (prawns) can be done many
ways. In a small, shallow earthenware pot
filled with sizzling olive oil, garlic and chilli;
or flash fried with lemon, chilli and parsley.
Of course, feel free to just pop a few on
the barbecue!
• Smoky chicken skewers. Thigh fillets
of chicken marinated in olive oil, sweet
smoked paprika (pimenton), crushed fennel
seeds, ground cumin, and garlic. Add a
small amount of red wine vinegar a few
minutes before cooking and serve with a
wedge of lime or garlicky aioli.
• Meatballs, usually pork or pork and beef
and deliberately made small so they’re
easier to fit in your mouth in one go! Braised
in a light tomato sauce that could contain
soft herbs such as parsley and coriander,
fragrant saffron and sometimes a few
almonds for crunch.
Some simple tapas dishes to share and enjoy
autumn issue 2014. 31
Local Liquor Ainslie 7 Edgar Street Ainslie 6230 6622
Berowra Village Tavern 1 Turner Road Berowra Heights 9456 2660
Bowral Hotel 412 Bong Bong Street Bowral 4862 2646
Sydney Cellars Broadway 227 Broadway Road Broadway 9660 9996
Local Liquor Bungendore 1/15 Gilbraltar Street Bungendore 6238 1735
Denman Cellars Shop 1-3, 68 Halley Street Chisolm 6292 5713
Coffs Harbour Hotel 135 West High Street Coffs Harbour 6651 4257
Pier Hotel Coffs Harbour 365 Harbour Drive Coffs Harbour 6652 2110
Local Liquor Conder (Corks Lanyon) Norman Lindsay Street Conder 6284 7000
Coonamble Cellars 83 Aberford Street Coonamble 6822 1756
Bottlo'briens cronulla 38 Cronulla Street Cronulla 9523 4037
Local Liquor Curtin (Statesman Hotel) Cnr Strangways & Theordore Streets Curtin 6281 1777
Dulwich Hill Cellars 572 Marrickville Road Dulwich Hill 9560 2946
Local Liquor Griffith (Shop-Rite) 2 Barker Street Griffith 6295 0781
Local Liquor Gungahlin Ernest Cavanagh Crescent Gungahlin 6253 9000
Islington Cellars 110 Maitland Road Islington 4969 4772
Local Liquor Lyneham (IGA) Wattle Street Lyneham 6249 7263
Nambucca River Co-Op Bottle Shop 17 Cooper Street Macksville 6568 1163
Argyle Tavern 205 River St Maclean 6645 4134
Bottle Plus Malabar 3/1215 Anzac Parade Malabar 9661 4184
Mosman Cellars 154 Spit Road Mosman 9969 4368
Commodore Hotel North Sydney 206 Blues Point Road North Sydney 9922 5098
Pitt Town Bottleshop 1A Eldon Street Pitt Town 4580 9007
Local Liquor Thirlmere 5/83-85 Westbourne Avenue Thirlmere 4681 8027
Ryans Hotel Thirroul 138 Phillip Street Thirroul 4267 1086
C'ellar Vie Turramurra 8 Princes Street Turramurra 9449 8550
Urunga Cellars 16 Bonville Street Urunga 6655 6012
all products can be found at the following participating stores
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Store Locations
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contact details
32 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
ROBERT OATLEY SIGNATURE SERIESThe Robert Oatley Signature Series draws on a remarkable portfolio of vineyardsnurtured by the winemaking talent of Larry Cherubino showcasing Australia’smost successful wine styles and regions. Bob Oatley’s mantra is that all winesshould be a “darned good drink”, and the high quality Signature Series deliversimmediate appeal, with satisfying flavours over an elegant frame. Each wineembodies the grape varietal and region in which it was grown.
GREAT SOUTHERNRIESLING2013
REGION NOTES: GREAT SOUTHERN WESTERN AUSTRALIARecognised by many as Australia’s newest high-quality Riesling region, the GreatSouthern encompasses a spectrum of sub-districts that are delivering remarkablydelicious and often age-worthy wines of tremendous success.
WINEMAKING NOTESWe selected a number of individual parcels of free-run juice from Porongorup, Frankland River and Mount Barker, fermented them with neutral yeast to retain the inherent fruit characters, and used minimal additions to produce a varietally pure, excellent early to mid-term drinking wine. Enjoy now to 2018.
FOUNDER’S NOTE
With over forty years of winemaking experience I’ve learnt there are twoimportant elements when it comes to creating great wine. Firstly, the best wines show a true sense of the land – that ideal combination of grape variety and region. Secondly, they taste even better when shared with friends.I hope you enjoy drinking these wines as much as we enjoyed making them.ROBERT OATLEY, FOUNDER
YARRA VALLEYPINOT NOIR
McLAREN VALESHIRAZ
MARGARET RIVERCHARDONNAY
MARGARET RIVERSAUVIGNON BLANC
MARGARET RIVERCABERNET
SAUVIGNON
Gold Medal atthe 2013
National WineShow
Canberra
ALSO AVAILABLE
TROPHY WINNER
AT THE 2013 NATIONAL
WINE SHOW CANBERRA
L O N D O N D R Y G I NL O N D O N D R Y G I N
The TANQUERAY and TONIGHT WE TANQUERAY words and associated logos are trade marks. © Charles Tanqueray & Co. 2014.
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