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1. IntroductionThe use of non-toxic and eco-friendly waste source ofSterculia foetida fruit shell, as a natural dye with an-tibacterial property on textile fabric has been carriedout due to the increased environmental issues and alsopollution produced by synthetic dyes and finishingchemicals. The latin name Sterculia foetida is a tropi-cal Skunk tree, belonging to the Sterculiaceae family,with a straight trunk that can grow 50 - 70 feet tall,which has 2000 types of species also known as Java-olive, Kelumpang, Bangar and Indian almond [1]. It isdeciduous and bears panicles of small red flowers inspring. Fruits ripen in the month of February, nearlyone month after the 1st appearance of the flowers. Itis tender to cold and best grown in the warmest areasof central Florida, Native to southern Asia and north-ern Australia [2]. Recently there has been a lot ofattraction focused on preparation and evaluation ofbiodieseland extraction process fromthe Sterculiafoetida seed oil for biodiesel production by research-ers[1, 3]. The open segments of fruit look a lot like

woody, heart-shaped bowls. Many research reportsindicate that different sources for natural dyes havebeen used for application oncotton,bamboo rayon andother fabrics [4 - 7].

The colouring substances of Sterculia foetida fruit shellhas contains saponins, phenols, tannins, terpenoids,glycoside and flavoinds and the positive test results onthe phytochemical constitutents of the same are re-ported earlier[8]. Tannins and flavonoids are consid-ered to be very useful substances during the dyeingprocess because of their ability to fix dyes on thefabrics.Cotton fabric were dyed with the water extractof Sterculia foetida fruit shell in the absence and pres-ence of mordant such as copper sulphate, alum andharda for pre and post mordanting. As per best of ourKnowledge however, no work has been done withSterculia foetida fruit shell waste, as natural dyeing oncotton fabric till date.

2. Material and Methods2.1.Material used for experimental workThe ready for dyeing (RFD) cotton fabric (80 GSM)was supplied by Adiv Exports, Andheri Mumbai,India.The plant specimen, Sterculia foetida fruit shellswas collected near the areas of Institute of ChemicalTechnology, Mumbai. Sterculia foetida fruit shell wastewere cut into small pieces first and then ground to fine

A Novel Natural Source Sterculia Foetida Fruit ShellWasteas Colourant and Antibacterial Agent for Cotton

M. D. Teli* & Pintu PanditDepartment of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, ICT

AbstractThis research was concerned with dye extraction from the fruit shell waste of sterculia foetidaand its application on cotton fabric for dyeing as well as antibacterial property. Optimal resultswere achieved for dyeing at 90°C for 60 min at 30% concentration on the weight of fabric forpre and post mordant dyeing. Dyeing on cotton fabric with and without mordant gave very goodresults in terms of different shades of colour and antibacterialproperty.The results confirmed thatnatural dyes from sterculia foetida fruit shells extract have potential applications for cottondyeing and producing very good antibacterial activity both against gram-positive bacteria (Sta-phylococcus aureus) and gram-negative bacteria (Escherichia coli). Treated fabrics showed sub-stantial increase in colour depth and good to very good wash, light and rubbing fastness prop-erties for both with and without mordant dyed cotton fabrics.

KeywordsNatural dye, sterculia foetida fruit shell waste, antibacterial,cotton dyeing

*All the correspondence should be addressed to,Prof. (Dr.) M.D. Teli,Department of Fibres and Textile Processing TechnologyInstitute of Chemical Technology, Matunga (E),Mumbai-400019, IndiaTel.: +91-022-3361 extn. 2811.E-mail : [email protected]

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powder. Alum, Harda and Copper sulphate, laboratorygrade mordants were used.

2.2. Extraction methods used for Sterculia foetidafruit shellsThe oven - dried (700C) Sterculia foetida fruit shellwas ground to a fine powder in the mixer and it wasused as the raw material for dye extraction. The re-fluxing technique was used to get the coloured solu-tion which was used for dyeing. Extracted dye wasthen centrifuge for 10 min at 4000 rpm to get undis-solved particles to be settled. The supernatant solutionwas used for dyeing in laboratory rota dyer machine(R.B. electronic and engineering Pvt. Ltd., India).

2.3. Dyeing ProcedureThree different mordants (alum, copper sulphate andharda) were used for dyeing as both pre mordantingand post mordanting agents. The mordanting and dye-ing was carried out in a laboratory rota dyer machinewith programmable time and temperature control.Required amount of dye was taken according to thedyeing shade for 10, 30 and 50 %, respectively onweight of fabric (o.w.f.). Around neutral pH and ma-terial to liquor ratio of 1:30 were maintained and dye-ing was carried out at 900C for dyeing time 60 min.

2.4. Evaluation of dyeingEvaluation of dyeing was done by determination of K/S and L*, a*, b* values using computer colour match-ing system. Colour depth of the samples was evalu-ated measuring the reflectance values, usingSpectraScan 5100+ computer colour matching system.Therelative colour strength (in terms of K/S value) offruit shell extract natural dyed cotton fabrics wasmeasured using the Kubelka-Munk equation:

K (1-R)2

---- = ---------S 2R

where 'K' is the absorption coefficient and'S' is thescattering coefficient and R is the reflectance of thedyed fabric at the wavelength of maximum absorption.

2.5. Fastness PropertiesThe dyeings were subjected for washing fastness us-ing ISO 105 C-10: 2006 method.Similarly light fast-ness and rubbing fastness of the abovesamples werealso assessed according to ISO 105-B02:2013and ISO105-X 12:2002 methods, respectively.

2.6 Antibacterial ActivityThe antimicrobial activity was quantitatively evalu-

ated against Escherichia coli (ATCC 25922), a gram-negative organism and Staphylococcus Aureus (ATCC25923), a gram-positive organism according to theAATCC 100 test method. Colonies of bacteria recov-ered on the agar plate were counted, and the percentreduction of bacteria (R) was calculated by the follow-ing equation:

(B-A)R(%) = ----------- X 100

BWhere, A is the number of bacterial colonies fromtreated specimen after inoculation over 24 h of contactperiod and B is the number of bacterial colonies fromuntreated control specimen after inoculation at zerocontact time.

3. Results and Discussion3.1 Natural Dyeing with Sterculia foetida fruit shellextracts on cotton FabricIt was observed from the Table3.1that K/Svalues ofthe cotton fabric dyed with sterculia foetida fruit shellextract dye solution itself i.e. without use of mordantincrease with increase in dye concentration. The mor-dant activity sequence in enhancing K/S values for thecotton was CuSO

4>Harda>Alum> without mordanting

(Refer Table 3.2).

Table 3.1: K/S value of cotton fabricwithout mordanting

Dye conc., K/S L a* b*% o.w.f.

10 0.23 82.16 3.63 7.20

30 0.32 81.68 6.56 7.24

50 0.41 82.26 5.99 8.19

100 0.79 83.18 6.42 9.79

Fruit shell extract in combination with alum, coppersulphate and harda mordant onto cotton fabric pro-duced good improvement in colour depth (K/S) andtheir values were in positive co-ordinates in terms ofa* (red), b* (yellow). Thus they showed shifts in theirtones resulting in beautiful gamut of colours as com-pared to the dyeings obtained without using mordant.Copper sulphate and alum mordants are well knownfor their ability to form coordination complexes and toreadily chelate with the dye. The colouring substanceof Sterculia foetida fruit shellcontains natural tanninsand polyphenols, varying from 4 to 5%. Thus, dyeingof cotton fabric with Sterculia foetida fruit extract maybe attributed to the presence of tannin richness [9].

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fruit shell extract. The tannins having phenolic struc-ture, contribute to the formation of metal chelate withdifferent mordants. Hence, after mordanting, thesetannins become insoluble in water and thus ultimatelyimprove washing fastness properties[10].Table 3.3: Fastness properties of without mordanting

of cotton fabric

Dye conc., Washing Light Rubbing Fastness

% o.w.f. Fastness Fastness Dry Wet

10 4 5-6 5 5

30 4 5-6 5 5

50 4-5 5-6 5 4-5

100 4-5 5 4-5 4

3.2 Assessment of Fastness Propertiesof the dyed cot-ton fabricThe fastness ratings of cotton fabric dyed withoutmordants at different dye concentration of 10, 30, and50% are presented in Table 3.3 and with three differ-ent mordants shown in Table 3.4. These results indi-cate that the washing fastness of the cotton fabricsdyed with sterculia foetida fruit shell was very good toexcellent (4 to 4-5) and the light fastness was of thegrade good to very good (5 to 5-6). The colour fast-ness to rubbing was found to be in the range of 4 to5 i.e.very good to excellent, for the cotton fabric dyedwith or without mordant. This clearly indicates thatdye fixed during exhaust dyeing may be due to theformation of metal chelates in presence of tannin, whichwas present in a significant extent in Sterculia foetida

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Table 3.2: K/S values of pre and post mordanting of cotton fabric

Types of Dye conc., Pre mordanting Post mordantingMordant % o.w.f.

K/S L a* b* K/S L a* b*

Alum 10 0.47 83.76 3.65 9.29 0.43 84.01 3.85 9.72

30 0.71 83.66 5.69 10.11 0.65 83.76 4.68 9.74

50 0.79 83.47 4.84 9.59 0.77 84.32 4.49 10.26

Copper sulphate 10 1.35 82.41 4.04 7.08 1.54 83.42 3.43 8.65

30 1.57 84.14 2.57 9.01 3.58 85.05 2.81 10.35

50 1.74 83.44 3.21 8.33 3.74 84.63 3.11 9.89

Harda 10 1.11 85.33 2.11 9.23 1.24 87.49 0.87 10.52

30 1.26 85.12 2.73 9.14 1.81 87.51 1.61 11.04

50 1.31 86.87 1.85 10.31 1.88 87.84 1.86 11.08

L*: lightness (0=black, 100=white), a*: red-green coordinates (positive values=red, negative values=green), b*:yellow-blue coordinates (positive values=yellow, negative values=blue).

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Natural dyes are less substantive and thus require amordant to fix to the fabric and prevent the colourfrom either fading with exposure to light or washingout. These methods have different effects on the shadeobtained after dyeing and also on the fastnessproperties.Alum is a white powder that is safe for handsand easy to use which produces bright shades andrelatively good light fastness. Copper provides goodcolour fastness to light. It is therefore necessary tochoose a proper mordanting method to get the desiredshade and fastness properties. The further work onantibacterial property was carried out byusing cottondyed with 30% shade.

3.3Antibacterial test of Sterculia foetida fruit shellextractcotton fabricThe quantitative analysis of the percent reduction ingram-positive (S.aureus) and gram-negative (E.coli)bacteria was done for cotton fabric dyed with onlyfruit shell extract (no mordant) of Sterculia foetidaand was dyed with three different mordants i.e. alum,copper sulphate and harda and these results are givenin Table 3.5. The results clearly indicate that the cot-ton fabric dyed with Sterculia foetida fruit shell ex-tract inherently showed good antibacterial propertiesboth against S. aureus and E.coli. The percent reduc-tion in bacteria increased on application of differentmordants. From the Table 3.5, it can be seen that thehighest colonies reduction (%) was observed in caseof copper sulphate mordant followed by harda andalum mordants against E.coli. As seen in all the over-all reductions in bacterial growth was in the range

from 96.5 - 98.8 % for S. aureus while for E. coli, itranged from 97.3 - 99.2 %.It is clear from this datathat colouring component in fruit shell extract hasstrong antibacterial activity without and also with threeselected mordants.

Table 3.5: Antibacterial property for E.coli andS.aureus for untreated and with and without mordant

treated and dyed cotton fabric

E.Coli S.Aureus

Cotton No. of Reduction No. of ReductionFabric Colonies % Colonies %

Untreated 2310 0 2344 0

Without 61 97.35 82 96.50mordant

With Alum 54 97.66 74 96.84

With Harda 31 98.65 49 97.91

With Copper 17 99.26 28 98.81sulphate

The observed antibacterial property of the treated cot-ton fabric might be due to the tannins, present in Ster-culia foetida fruit shell which was found to be of theorder of 4.71%. The flavonoids as well as terpenoidand saponin were also detected in fruit shell extract.Out of which terpenoid acts as antibacterial agentagainst both S.aureus and E.coli whereas saponin whichare glycosides provide inhibitory effects against S.aureus bacteria [8].

Table 3.4: Fastness properties of pre mordanting and post mordantingof cotton fabric

Dyeing Parameters Washing Fastness Light Fastness Rubbing Fastness

Types of Mordant Dye conc., Pre Post Pre Post Pre Post% o.w.f.

Mordanting Mordanting Mordanting

Dry Wet Dry Wet

Alum 10 4 4 5-6 6 5 4-5 5 4-5

30 4 4 5-6 6 5 4-5 5 4-5

50 4-5 4-5 5-6 5-6 4-5 4-5 5 4

Copper sulphate 10 4-5 4-5 6 6 5 5 5 5

30 4-5 4-5 6 6 5 5 5 5

50 4-5 4-5 6 6 5 4-5 5 4-5

Harda 10 4 4 5-6 6 5 4-5 5 4

30 4-5 4-5 5-6 6 5 4 4-5 4

50 4-5 4-5 5 5-6 4-5 4 4-5 4

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4. ConclusionsWaste source of Sterculia foetida fruit shell extractcan be successfully employed as a natural colourant.Cotton fabrics showed good colour depth in terms ofK/S values and good to very good overall fastnessproperties with and without mordanting. The dyedcotton fabrics showed good antibacterial activity bothagainst S. aureus and E.coli bacteria. Hence, Sterculiafoetida fruit shell extract shows good promise to beused as industrial mordant as well as colourant to cottontextiles giving good antibacterial property.

AcknowledgementsThe authors would like to thank the University GrantCommission Special Assistance programme (UGC-BSR) for providing funds for carrying out this research.

References:

1. Pandian S., Karuppiah S. P., Sivakumar P., VinobaM., and Renganathan S., Industrial & Engineer-ing Chemistry Research, 51, 8992?8998,(2012).

2. Orwa C., Muta A., Kindt R., Jamnads R., andAnthony S., Agroforestry Database, 4, (2009).http://www.orldagrofrestry.org/sites/tredbs/tredatbase.asp

3. Bindhu C., Reddy J. R. C., Rao B. V. S. K.,Ravinder T., Chakrabarti P. P., Karuna M.S.L.,and Prasad R. B. N., P, Journal of the AmericanOil Chemists', 89, 891-896 (2012).

4. Teli M.D., Sheikh J., Mahalle K., and Labade V.,Journal of the Textile Association,74, 23-27(2012).

5. Teli M.D., Sheikh J., Valia S.P., and Yeola P.,Journal of the Textile Association,74, 12- 17(2013).

6. TeliM.D., SheikhJ., MahalleK., and TrivediR.,Journal of the Textile Association,73, 68-74(2013).

7. TeliM.D.,ValiaS.P., Kolamber D., Trivedi R.,Kamble, M., Journal of the Textile Association,74, 337- 341 (2014).

8. Teli M.D., Pandit P., and Jangle A., Asian Dyer,12,40- 44 (2015).

9. Conde E., Cadahia E., Garcia-Vallejo M.C., andFernandez de S. B.,Phytochemical Analysis, 8, 8-83 (1997).

10. Agarwal B. J., Patel B. H., Man-Made Textiles inIndia, 45, 237-241 (2002).

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1. IntroductionA core spun yarn structure consists of a core yarnsurrounded by the fibre that is suitable for use as yarn.Core component forms the central axis of the yarn andother forms the cover [1]. Core spun yarns are pro-duced with core as continuous filament yarns such aspolyester, nylon and polypropylene or it may be elas-tomeric yarn. Depending on the core material theseyarns are classified as Non-Elastic core-cover andElastic core-cover yarns. Elastic core spun yarns [2]have got number of applications in the textile industryand can meet the increasing demand for more com-fortable versatile cloths. Elastic core-spun yams usespandex as the core and filament as cover. Elastic core-spun yarns have also unique properties. They have thesame feel as the shield fibers and possess good mois-ture absorption because natural fibers cover the outerlayer. They are comfortable to wear and can modifytheir elasticity to fit different end-products. Elastic core-spun yarns can be used to produce fabrics of varyingstyles, hands and functions, and can be designed for

woven and knitted fabrics according to their proper-ties. Swimwear, active wear, circular knit fabrics andnarrow fabrics are the common applications for elas-tic-core spun yarns. Elastic- core spun yarns [3] arealso used for stretched woven fabrics and suitable forcasual wears, jeans corduroy, and evening gown, out-wears and bottom wears [4]. The manufacturing ofelastic core-covers yarns, known as air covered yarns,using air-covering machine gaining the popularitynowadays. In air-covered yarns, spandex yarn is cov-ered by filament yarn with the help of periodic en-tanglements along the length of the yarn. The advan-tage of air-covering machine is its high productionrate. The elasticity of air covered yarn and entangle-ment point strength could be easily optimized by se-lecting process parameters of the machine. The basicrequirement to produce an elastic air covered yarn isto stretch a spandex thread before it enters the entan-gling unit. This action provides elasticity in the finalyarn by retraction of the spandex core when stress isremoved, thus compacting and bulking the yarn. Thefeed in angle of spandex to the air jet affects the sta-bility of yarns and draw ratio mainly affects the elasticrecovery of the air-covered yarn. Overfeed of yarn tothe air jet has also a remarkable effect on the pathwayof filament in air covered yarn. In this paper, focus is

Studies on the Physical Properties ofSpandex/Polyester Air Covered Yarns

Manjunath Burji1*, P. V. Kadole1, M. Y. Gudiyawar1 & B. M. Patil2

1DKTE Society's Textile and Engineering Institute,2Capitol Nonwovens,

AbstractAir covered yarns with elastic core and polyester cover were manufactured with various processparameters of air-covering machine such as overfeed to the jet, elastic yarn stretch ratio, nozzleair pressure and delivery speed. The air-covered yarns evaluated for various characteristics suchas linear density, elastic recoveries like static & dynamic, tensile properties, longitudinal viewand boiling water shrinkage. Delivery speed, overfeed to jet, and Lycra draw ratio have shownsignificant effect on linear density and dynamic elastic recovery of air covered yarn. However,air pressure has shown significant influence on elastic recovery of air covered yarn. Static elas-ticity of yarns was significantly influenced by only Lycra draw ratio.

The strength and breaking elongation of yarns were significantly influenced by overfeed to jet,Lycra draw ratio and air pressure. There is no effect of delivery speed on the strength andelongation of yarns. Boiling water shrinkage of yarns was significantly influenced by all theprocess parameters.

KeywordsAir covered, elastic recovery, static elastic, dynamic elastic, nodes

*All the correspondence should be addressed to,Manjunath BurjiDKTE Society's Textile and Engineering Institute,Ichalkaranji, IndiaEmail:

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on manufacturing and studying the effect of processparameters on characteristics of air-covered yarn.

2. Materials and Methods2.1 MaterialsTextured polyester of 80 dtex with 34 numbers of fila-ments and Lycra of 80 dtex procured for the manufac-turing of air covered yarns. Textured polyester havingtenacity 13.35 gm/tex and breaking extension 15.22 %were used for the study.

2.2 Methods2.2.1 Air Covered yarn ManufacturingThe air covered yarn manufacturing process is shownin Figure 2.1.The air covering machine consists of twocreels. One creel is for feeding elastic component andthe other for feeding non-elastic filament. Elastic yarnis fed in stretched condition and other filament isoverfed. Both the yarns are fed to the jet together. Thehigh air pressure in the jet creates entanglement pointsand the filament yarn covers the elastic yarn. Thesecond draw roller withdraws the air-covered yarn anddelivers it to the winder.

Figure 2.1: Air-covering yarn processes

2.2.2 Design of ExperimentTo study the main effect of process parameters on theyarn properties, the 44 Factorial experiments whichreduced the samples to 16 with two trials by Taugachimethod was used. Sample numbers and their eachparameter specifications are shown in Table 2.1.

Table 2.1: Details of samples and process parameters

Sample Speed Air-Pressure Overfeed to Draw rationo. (m/min) (Kg / cm2) jet (%) (%)

1 80 3 2 1.5

2 80 4 4 2

3 80 5 6 2.5

4 80 6 8 3

5 100 3 4 2.5

6 100 4 2 3

7 100 5 8 1.5

8 100 6 6 2

9 120 3 6 3

10 120 4 8 2.5

11 120 5 2 2

12 120 6 4 1.5

13 140 3 8 2

14 140 4 6 1.5

15 140 5 4 3

16 140 6 2 2.5

2.3. Testing and EvaluationThe filament yarns and air-covered yarns were testedfor following properties.

2.3.1 Linear densityLinear density was measured by wrap reel method andby quantitative expression.

2.3.2 Elastic recoveryElastic recovery represents the union between elasticextension and total extension. It is calculated by staticand dynamic method as shown below.

Static elastic recovery : This characteristic indicatesthe elastic recovery of elastin core cover yarns that hasapplications in apparels with low movements duringusage. In this measurement method, a skein samplewas prepared by winding the yarn on the wrap reel foreight times. Each skein sample was hung with 50gcounter weights for 1 minute, then the (L0) of thesample was noted. Next, the same sample was hungwith 500g counterweight and left for 1 minute. Afterone minute, 500 g weight was removed and then hungwith 50g counterweight and (L1) of the sample wasmeasured and elastic recovery was calculated by (((L0- L1)/L0) +1) x100%.

Dynamic elastic recovery: It helps to evaluate the

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garment response to body motion instantaneously. Indynamic elastic recovery (DER) method, the elastaneyarn was tested for its DER value using Instron tester.The yarn was applied with 100 gm load at a speed of100 mm/minute, 500 mm gauge length for 10 cycles.The loading and unloading curve obtained (as shownin Figure 2.2) was analyzed for DER%. Dynamic elas-tic recovery (DER) is equal to the ratio of area underthe unloading curve to area under the loading curve.Areas of curves were calculated by Simpson 1/3 ruleusing excel calculator.

2.3.3 Tensile strength & elongationThis was measured as per ASTM D2256-02 method.

2.3.4 Boiling water shrinkageBoiling water shrinkage was measured using ASTMD2259-02 method.

Images were taken from camera to study the structuresof the yarns.Node: Intermingling points were measured with bareeye.All the results obtained were analysed by Minitab 15statistical tool.

Figure 2.2: Dynamic elastic recovery

3. Results and Discussion3.1 Effect on linear density of air covered yarns

Figure 3.1: Effect on linear density

There is significant effect of speed, overfeed to jet,and Lycra draw on the linear densities of air coveredyarns. The air pressure is not having any significanteffect on linear density of air covered yarns and Lycradraw ratio has more significant effect on linear densityof air covered yarn as compared to other parameters.The decrease in linear density with increase in deliv-ery speed is due to the extension and reduction inmass per unit length of yarn (as shown in Figure 3.1).The mass of air covered yarn decreases with increasein Lycra draw ratio. Therefore, the air covered yarnslinear density decreases with increase in Lycra drawratio. The increase in linear density with increase indelivery speed and overfeed to jet is due to the in-crease in mass per unit length of yarn by excessivelength and also due to increase in number of nodes inthe yarn.

3.2 Effect on dynamic elastic recovery

Figure 3.2: Effect on dynamic elastic recovery

The Figure 3.2 shows that there is significant effect ofdelivery speed, Lycra draw ratio and overfeed to jet ondynamic elastic recovery of air covered yarns. How-ever, there is no significant effect of air pressure ondynamic elastic recovery of air covered yarns. DER itindicates instant response of garment to body move-ment, higher the value of DER indicates better com-fort ability to wear, as any deformation of garment dueto body movement will make the garment to recoveryinstantly and exactly fit to body shape. As the over-feed to jet increases, the DER of air covered yarnincreases. The higher overfeed to jet imparts higherDER and vice-versa. The increase in DER at higheroverfeed is due to higher number of nodes. The highernumber of nodes will ensure quick recovery of fila-ment from stretching. As the Lycra draw ratio anddelivery speed increase the DER of yarn increases.

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This may be due to the increase in number of nodes.Therefore, it may be said that the higher number ofnodes present in air covered yarns will impart higherDER to yarns. To produce more comfortable fabrics,DER of yarn used must be higher. The higher DER isobtainable at higher overfeeds, air pressure, deliveryspeed and higher Lycra draw ratio.

3.3 Static elastic recovery

Figure 3.3: Effect on static elastic recovery

There is no significant effect of delivery speed, airpressure and overfeed to jet on static elastic recovery.However, Lycra draw ratio has significant effect onstatic elastic recovery as shown in Figure 3.3. As Lycradraw ratio increases, the static elastic recovery of aircovered yarns decreases. When Lycra is fed with higherdraw ratio, then the air covered yarns show lower staticelastic recovery. Static elastic recovery behavior isopposite to behavior of DER. Static elastic recoveryincreases with decrease in number of nodes.

3.4 Effect on tensile characteristics

Figure 3.4: Effect on tenacity

As shown in Figure 3.4 there is significant effect ofoverfeed, Lycra draw ratio and air pressure on thetenacity of air covered yarns. There is no significanteffect of delivery speed on tenacity of air covered yarns.As overfeed and air pressure to jet increases, the te-nacity of air covered yarn decreases. This behavior isdue to increase in number of nodes in yarns. Highernodes in yarns mean higher entanglement of filaments.The tenacity of yarn decreases when the obliquity offilament to yarn axis increase. Higher numbers of nodesincrease filament obliquity and the yarn strength de-creases. As the Lycra draw ratio increases the tenacityof the yarn increases. This behavior is due to thestraightening of originally folded soft segments of Lycrayarn. The straightening of soft chains allows the hardersegment to form a crystal lattice by the effect of hy-drogen bonding. This phenomenon is known as stressinduced crystallization. This crystallization of Lycrastructure reduces the destruction of interior structureof Lycra fibre due to the higher crystallization and dueto the less destruction of internal structure of Lycrafibre at higher Lycra draw ratio, the strength of aircovered yarn increases with increase in Lycra drawratio. As air pressure increases, the strength of yarndecreases. This behavior may due to higher migrationof filament in yarn due to high turbulence created byhigher air pressure. The high turbulence creates highernumber of entanglement of filaments and obliquity offilament. As there is an increase in the obliquity offilament, there is reduction in the strength of yarn. Thedecrease in breaking elongation due to increase inoverfeeds and air pressure is due to higher number ofnodes. The nodes with greater entanglement of fila-ment obstruct the extension of filaments.

3.5 Effect on breaking extension

Figure 3.5: Effect on breaking extension

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As shown in the Figure 3.5, there is a significant ef-fect of air pressure, overfeed to jet and Lycra drawratio on the breaking extension of air covered yarns.The breaking extension decreases with increase inoverfeed and air pressure and increases with increasein Lycra draw ratio. The decrease in breaking exten-sion is due to the higher entanglement of filamentcreated by higher air pressure and overfeeds. The higherentanglements of filament obstruct the extension ofyarn. Therefore, the elongation of yarn decreases. Theincrease in extension with increase Lycra draw ratio isdue to the extension of soft segment of Lycra.

3.6 Effect on boiling water shrinkage

Figure 3.6: Effect on boiling water shrinkage

Figure 3.6 shows that, there is significant effect of allthe parameters on boiling water shrinkage. Boilingwater shrinkage indicates the dimensional stability ofyarn and fabrics. To get better dimensional stability itis expected that the yarn must have lower residualshrinkage. The increase in boiling water shrinkage withincrease in Lycra draw ratio is due to the higher stress,which is induced by high draw ratio. This higher stresspresent in yarn will relax during boiling water treat-ment, which increases shrinkage. Increase in numberof nodes in air covered yarn shows BWHSR% in-creasing trend for delivery speed and BWHSR% de-creasing trend for overfeed to jet. For air pressure tojet, BWHSR% shows decreasing trend up to certainlimit and than increases, due to increase in number ofnodes in air covered yarn. (use full forms and explainproperly)

3.7 Effect of nodes

Figure 3.7: Effect on nodes

With the increase in overfeed, the number of nodes ofair covered yarns also increases which is shown inFigure 3.7.The node is created by entanglement of bothpolyester and Lycra filament. The higher numbers ofnodes or entanglement points created by higher over-feed, decreases the parallel arrangement of filamentsand entanglement distance. Figure 3.8 shows struc-tures of sample S1, S2, S3 and S4 that has overfeed tojet of 2, 4, 6 and 8% respectively.

Figure 3.8: Structures of air covered yarns

The number of nodes or entanglement point increaseswith increase in Lycra draw ratio. Also the numbers ofnodes increase with increase in air pressure due tomore turbulence of air in jet.

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4. ConclusionThere is significant effect of speed, overfeed to jet,and Lycra draw on the linear densities and dynamicelastic recovery of air covered yarns. However, thereis no significant effect of air pressure on the yarns.The higher number of nodes present in air coveredyarns will impart higher recovery to yarns. Lycra drawratio has significant effect on static elastic recovery.There is significant effect of overfeed, Lycra draw ratioand air pressure on the tenacity and breaking exten-sion of air covered yarns. There is no significant effectof delivery speed on the yarns. There is significanteffect of all the parameters on boiling water shrinkage.This higher stress present in yarn will relax duringboiling water treatment and increases shrinkages.

References

1. Menghe Miao, Yan-Lai How & Sau-Yee Ho, TextRes J, 74(11), 676, (1996).

2. Ching-luan Su, Meei-Chyi Maa & Hsiao-YingYang, Text Res J, 74(7), 607, (2004).

3. Osman Babaarslan, Text Res J, 71(4), 367, (2001).4. www.ssm.ch/index.php?S=1&Article=24 (ac-

cessed on March 2012).5. Cheng K B & Richard Murray, Text Res J, 70(80),

690, (2000).6. Jia-Horng Lin, Ching -Wen Chang, Ching-Wen

Lou & Wen-Hao Hsing, Text Res J, 74(6), 480,(2004).

7. Senthilkumar M & Anbumani N, J Industrial Text,41(1), 13, (2011).

8. Tyagi G K, Goyal A & Patnaik, Indian J FibreText Res, 27(12), 352, (2002).

9. Senthilkumar M, Anbumani N & Hayavadana,Indian J Fibre Text Res, 36(9), 300, (2011).

10. Armin Pourahmad & Majid S Johari, J. TextileInst, 100(4), 275, (2009).

❑ ❑ ❑

TESTING

SHIFTEDTo

2, Dwarkanath Mansion,

Near Nirmal Nursing Home,

91, Ranade Road Exrension,

Shivaji park, Dadar (W),

Mumbai - 400 028

Tel.: +91-22-24461145

Fax: +91-22-24474971

E-mail: [email protected]

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA)

Central Office

Website: www.textileassociationindia.org

WE HAVEFrom

Pathare House, 2nd Floor,

Next to State Bank of India,

Ranade Road, Dadar (W),

Mumbai - 400 028

Tel.: +91-22-24461145

Fax: +91-22-24474971

E-mail: [email protected]


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1. IntroductionHandloom is the oldest weaving machine that pro-duces elegant textile products till date. It constitutes atimeless facet of the rich cultural heritage of India andexemplifies the richness and diversity of our country,besides showing the artistry of the weavers. The ele-ment of art and craft present in Indian handlooms makesit a potential sector for the upper segments of domes-tic and global market. However, the sector is besetwith manifold problems such as obsolete technologies,unorganized production system, low productivity, in-adequate working capital, conventional product range,weak marketing linkage, overall stagnation of produc-tion and sales and, above all, competition from powerlooms and mill sector [1-3].

Khesh - a strip of waste cotton or silk fabric is usedas a weft yarn for producing Khesh fabric. It is a verycommon product of the handloom sector. But there arevarious constraints in producing and using those fab-rics in terms of sourcing of raw materials, price andinnovative product line and most of the time handloomweavers are not aware of the future product lines to bedeveloped through this fabric. This Khesh technique isalso going through an existential crisis like other

handloom products in terms of design innovations,productivity, marketing and sales network etc. How-ever, apart from opening a new line of products forhandloom, apparel and handicraft sectors there arevarious reasons of using Khesh fabric, viz. i) it is bio-degradable and recyclable in nature, ii) it has soft andtrendy look and iii) it can create awareness among thecustomers for using more cotton fabrics in place ofsynthetics. Keeping all these in mind, the aim of thisstudy is to produce diversified value-added handloomtextiles from Khesh fabric for its sustenance and alsoto give a fresh direction to handloom sectors. Kheshhas the capacity to provide new hope and diversity inthe handloom textiles through the fresh fashionablegarments and accessories which will cater to a wideyoung audience.2. Materials and equipments2.1 Khesh sariKhesh sari was made in fly shuttle type pit loom hav-ing reed count of 72ST. 100s Ne warp and 100s Ne weftyarn along with multi-coloured Khesh were used asextra weft for producing the sari. It was weaved atNabadwip, Nadia, West Bengal.

2.2 Multi-coloured Khesh fabricPlain weave multi-coloured Khesh fabric with yarnsof 10s Ne warp and 2/60s Ne weft along with strips ofcotton Khesh were produced at Nabadwip, Nadia, WestBengal in the same type of loom but with differentreed count (40ST) as mentioned earlier and used as rawmaterials for producing mat, home furnishing, bags,

Product Diversification of Handloom Khesh Fabric

Lina Chakraborty*Apparel Training & Design Centre, Salt Lake

AbstractThe Khesh technique is a special one which involves weaving old saris or left over fabric bytearing them into thin strips at random to produce an aesthetically beautiful fabric. In thosefabrics generally cotton threads are used as warp yarn whereas thin strips of cotton or silk fabricsare used in weft direction. Khesh fabric i.e. a "recycled textile" is a well-known product nowa-days but like many others products of the handloom sector; it is also going through an existentialcrisis. This collection mainly depicts how, with contemporary design and fresh innovation, Kheshcan be used to produce different value added diversified articles for sustaining the handloomsector. Khesh is also instrumental in reducing wastage. In this present work different type ofKhesh fabrics are used to produce diversified products for the sustenance of the handloomsectors.

KeywordsHandloom, Khesh, Recycled textile

*All correspondence should be addressed to:Lina ChakrabortyApparel Training and Design CentreP Plot 3B, Block LA, Salt Lake-700 098Email: [email protected]

HANDLOOMSPEER REVIEWED


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cover files, ladies' wallet etc., whereas the fabric madeout of 2/60s Ne warp and 2/60s Ne weft along withstrips of cotton Khesh were used for producing ap-parel, garments etc. In this case, 48ST reed was used.

2.3 Printed fabricPrinted fabrics were used during the finishing of thegarments and other products.

2.4 Sewing machineSingle needle lock stitch (SNLS) type sewing machine,model no. DDL- 8100B-7, Juki, China and Over locksewing machine Model No. MO-6716S, JUKI, Chinawere used for garment construction purpose.

2.5 Pattern toolsL-Square, Scissor, French curve, Tracing wheel, Mea-surement tape, Hip curve, etc. were used as patternmaking tools.

2.6 Sewing threadsThis was used for embroidery and stitching purposes.

3. Mood boardMood board also known as theme or concept board isa type of collage consisting of images, text or samplesof objects in a composition which has certain inspira-tion and is a very effective presentation tool. It con-veys the theme of the designers. A variety of photo-graphic images are used to inspire the designers towork on this particular line of creation. The concept oridea of the theme is visualized through the theme board.In the present study the mood board is based on thetheme "Storm" which reflects two aspects i.e. positiveand negative side of the storm. Negative side is illus-trated by the manifold problems of the handloom in-dustry i.e. use of power loom fabrics, rate of produc-tion, cost of products, improper supply chain manage-ment, inadequate skilled labour etc.Dark areas of the mood board are representing all thesefallacies, whereas the light areas are illuminated bythe sun which demonstrates the positivity of hope dueto various Government policies, day to day researchwork, innovation and brilliant design and the brandimage. Nowadays weaving is considered as an art,means of development of skill and knowledge.

4. Methods4.1 Khesh strip preparationKhesh strips were prepared before weaving. The oldand/or used cotton printed or dyed saris were collectedfrom various sources and were washed with mild de-

tergent in warm water followed by drying under sun-light. Now these fabrics were ready for the strip prepa-ration and strips were collected on different colouredpaper bobbin by hand winding process. These colourshorting will further assist during colourful designdevelopment and shade variation of final products.

4.2 Fabric formationHandloom fabrics were produced in fly shuttle typeChittaranjan loom at Nabadwip, Nadia, West Bengalafter following the various preparatory processes likesizing, bobbin winding, warping, beaming, drawing,drafting, looming, pirn winding, etc.

4.3 Pattern makingVarious patterns were developed for garment construc-tion with the help of different pattern making tools.

4.4 CuttingAs per the design, cutting was done with the help ofthe pattern block.

4.5 StitchingStitching was done by SNLS (Single Needle lock Stitch)machine as per the design requirement.

4.6 EmbroideryEmbroidery was done on the basis of design.

4.7 Photoshop illustrationPhotoshop illustration was used to get an idea of theoriginal product and also to make the craftsman/stitcher/weaver understand what the final product would be.

4.8 Garment constructionGarments were constructed from the hand woven fab-ric by the help of Single needle lock stitch (SNLS)type sewing machine, model no. DDL- 8100e, Juki,Vietnam. L-Square, scissor, french curve, tracing wheel,measurement tape etc. was used as pattern making tools.

5. ConclusionsThe handloom sector is beset with manifold problemssuch as obsolete technologies, unorganized productionsystem, low productivity, inadequate working capital,conventional product range, weak marketing link, over-all stagnation of production and sales and, above all,competition from power loom and mill sector. Effec-tive Government intervention through financial assis-tance and implementation of various developmentalwelfare schemes are essential to boost up this mori-bund sector. The handloom sector, to some extent, has

HANDLOOMS


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been able to tide over these disadvantages with morediversified product ranges. But a lot more is yet to bedone for the promotion of the handloom fabrics ofIndia. The final generic strategy, focusing (also calledniche or segmentation strategy), involves concentrat-ing on a particular customer, product line, geographi-cal area, channel of distribution, stage in the produc-tion process, or market niche. As in with a storm thateventually blows over and gives way to life affirmingsunshine, similarly our products range aim to tide overthe storm gathered over the dwindling sector and pro-vide a fresh ray of sunshine.

5.1 Precautions for Khesh fabricThe following precautions need to be taken while pro-ducing Khesh fabric in handloom

◆ During weaving Khesh weft may encounter morewarp breakages because of fine count of warpyarn.

◆ Before weaving starts, Khesh strip should beprepared as per the design requirement to avoidunwanted confusion during weaving and this mayinvolve additional extra time and charge of thefinal products.

◆ Khesh strip as an extra weft for buti design shouldbe used carefully as there may be chances of slip-page of the fabric.

◆ During stitching unwanted weft yarn coming outfrom the main fabric is compromised in the origi-nal design.

◆ 100% reproduction is not possible during bulkproduction.

References

1. Roy Maulik S., Bhowmik L., and Agarwal K.,Indian J Traditional Knowledge, 13 (4), 788,(2014).

2. Roy Maulik S., and Agarwal K., Indian J Tradi-tional Knowledge, 13 (3), 589, (2014).

3. Roy Maulik S., and Bhowmik L., InternationalConference on Emerging Trends in Traditionaland Technical Textiles, Department of TextileTechnology, Dr. B R Ambedkar National Instituteof Technology, Jalandhar, 368, (2014).

❑ ❑ ❑

HANDLOOMS

Figure 1: Khesh Collectiona) Mood Board - Home Decor, b) Sleeveless Jacket,c) Laptop Bag, d) Wall Hanging,e) Khesh Sari, f) Cover File

Figure 2 a) Photoshop illustration andb) final product (Cover File)

10th INDIAINTERNATIONAL

TEXTILEMACHINERYEXHIBITION

INDIA-ITME 2016 -Dec. 03-08, 2016

Bombay Exhibition Centre,Goregaon (E),

Mumbai - India


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PEER REVIEWEDMANAGEMENT

1. IntroductionTextile and apparel manufacturing is one of the largestindustrial sectors in India in terms of foreign exchangeand in employment generation. This sector is very muchlabor intensive influencing the societal aspects at greatextent. Textile industries are one amongst other indus-tries which affects pollution generation and disturbingthe biodiversity and sustainability. Therefore, there isa dire need for textile corporate sector to give priorityon social aspects of workers and associated commu-nity such as minimum wages, maximum working hours,no child labor, no forced labor, no discrimination, etcalong with ecology, environment and sustainabilityissues. Although, the Companies Act 2013 necessitatethe larger companies to spend at least 2% of annual

net profit on activities concerned to corporate socialresponsibility but even more have to be done on thisissues. The forgoing section of the paper high lightscorporate social responsibility in context to textile andapparel industries with discussing its various aspects,necessity, code of conducts, policy formulation, moni-toring and its affect on competitiveness of organiza-tion one by one.

2. Corporate Social ResponsibilityThe business is not all about making profit. It requiresmany resources for successful completion of any busi-ness. Hence, organizations have some obligations to-wards these resources. These obligations comprise thecorporate social responsibilities. The idea of corporatesocial responsibility has been discussed throughout thetwentieth century, but Howard R. Bowen originated itin his book on "Social Responsibilities of Business-man" published in 1953. All the businesses survivebecause they satisfy one or more social needs. So ifany organization wants to succeed it has to consider

Corporate Social Responsibilities inTextile and Apparel Industry

Lalit Jajpura1*, Sushil Kumar2 & Jai Veer3

1Department of Fashion Technology, BPS Mahila Vishwavidyalaya,2School of Fashion, K R Mangalam University,

3Department of Textile Technology, Dr. B.R Ambedkar National Institute of Technology,

AbstractBusiness is all about profit, but at the same time the organizations are answerable to the society.The associated farmers, workers, stakeholders, retailers, customers and the society as a wholeshould get benefit through the corporate sector. Textile industries play a major role in globaleconomy and at the same time affect the social and environmental aspects at large extent fromcultivation/ production of fibres to apparel manufacturing. It is essential that corporate sectormust insure social and environmental compliance as per the standard norms. Therefore in India,the Companies Act 2013 necessitates the corporate sector to spend and work on these societalissues with fulfilling certain criteria. The present paper discusses corporate social responsibilityin context to textile and apparel sector along with its various economic, social and environmentand ecological aspects. The paper also elaborates various Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR)initiatives in the form of code of conducts such as Social Accountability 8000 (SA 8000), Inter-national Organization for Standardization (ISO) 14001, Worldwide Responsible Accredited Pro-duction (WRAP), Fair Labor Association (FLA), Occupational Health and Safety AssessmentSeries (OHSAS), etc.

KeywordsCorporate social responsibility (CSR), The Companies Act 2013, CSR and textiles, SA 8000, ISO14001, WRAP, FLA.

*All the correspondence must be addressed to,Dr Lalit Jajpura,Department of Fashion Technology,BPS Mahila Vishwavidyalaya, Khanpur Kalan, Sonepat,Haryana, IndiaEmail : [email protected]


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the social factor. The better it satisfies the need ofsociety the better it does in terms of profit and busi-ness.

The World Business Council for Sustainable Develop-ment stresses, "CSR is the continuing commitment bybusiness to behave ethically and contribute to eco-nomic development while improving the quality of lifeof the workforce and their families, as well as of thelocal community and society at large" [1].

The European Union defines CSR as "the concept thatan enterprise is accountable for its impact on all rel-evant stakeholders. It is the continuing commitmentby business to behave fairly and responsibly and con-tribute to economic development while improving thequality of life of the work force and their families aswell as of the local community and society at large"[2].

3. The necessities of CSRApart from the legal compulsion, there are many rea-sons to the organizations of indulging in CSR Activi-ties. Some of the reasons are as follow:

3.1. AwarenessThe prime reason due to which organizations had notbeen responsible to the society and environment islack of awareness of the consumer. The consumer wasgiven very little or no information about the produc-tion and its impacts. But few recent cases show thatthe level of consumer awareness has increased andthus forcing the organizations to adopt responsible andsustainable business practices [3].

3.2. Legal obligationThe Companies Act, 2013 lays down mandatory re-quirements in regards to CSR for larger companies(those with at least Rs 5 Cr net profit/ Rs500Cr networth/ Rs1,000Cr turnover), which includes a require-ment to spend at least 2% of annual net profit on CSRactivities. An estimated 7-8,000 companies in Indiawill be covered under the CSR legislation and the totalannual spend based on this norm could be equivalentto US$ 1-2 billion [4].

The Bill clearly demarcates CSR from charity and doesnot position it as a 'moral responsibility' for companies[5].

3.3. Realization of benefitsApart from the legal compulsion, there are many ben-efits to the organizations of indulging in CSR Activi-ties. Some of the benefits are as follow:◆ Organizations that focus on all the stakeholders

rather than only on shareholders and profit maxi-mization, showed four times the growth rate andeight times employment growth as compared tothe latter.

◆ The enterprises having adopted CSR activitiesincreased their export volumes and also increasedthe foreign buyers.

◆ Customers have developed some sort of loyaltyto the sustainable products. This results in in-crease in sales.

◆ There is also a growing body of evidence to sup-port a business case CSR practices. The coststhese practices are offset by benefits brought tothe companies concerned. These benefits includereductions in absenteeism, better staff retentionrates, improved productivity, improved staff mo-tivation and loyalty to the company, the ability toattract better staff, savings on training costs, morestable, reliable services and enhancements to theorganisation's reputation.

4. Various aspects of CSRThe corporate social responsibility has various areasas shown in figure 1. Broadly there are following threeaspects of CSR:

◆ Economic◆ Social◆ Environmental and Ecological

Figure 1: Area of corporate social responsibility [7]

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4.1. Economic aspectThe organizations take this aspect very lightly, as it isassumed that economic aspects of corporate socialresponsibility will be covered with financial and em-ployment accountability and transparency. But, it isnot so as this aspect of CSR also cover direct andindirect economic effects of the organization's actionson surroundings and stakeholders [6].

4.2. Social aspectFor successful transaction of business, an organizationrequires many people. These people are involved atdifferent levels and get affected by the business differ-ently. Social aspect of CSR covers all the direct andindirect social effects of the actions of the organiza-tions. It covers all the people concerned and affectedby the business of the organization [6].

4.3. Environmental and ecological aspectThis is an important aspect of CSR. Today, in the ageof globalization, most organizations affect global envi-ronment. In general, this aspect covers the harmfuleffects on the surroundings of the business activities.Some of these effects are

◆ Overuse of natural and non-renewable resourcesof energy

◆ Pollution◆ Wastage◆ Degeneration of biodiversity◆ Climate change◆ Deforestation [6]

5. CSR in the context of textile industryThe textile and clothing industry plays major role ineconomy of developing countries like India. Due toglobalization jobs are transferring to developing coun-tries, although the manufacturing industries of devel-oping countries are under strict surveillance. Corpora-tions or industries can no longer exist as separate andisolated entities. They are the part of a broader entitycalled society. Hence they share some responsibilitiestowards society and environment in which they func-tion. Highest foreign exchange approximately 14% ofits total industrial production is given by the textileand clothing industry [8]. It provides employment toabout 35 million people in India, which is highestemployment generating sector only after agriculture.At the same time it has a major contribution in in-creasing pollution level as well as working conditionsof provided jobs are less than desirable. [9,10].

There has been a shift in the market structure in lastdecade. It has become buyer's market. Now it is thebuyer who dictates w hat is to be produced and sold.Consumer being the ultimate buyer has also forcedmultinational enterprises to focus their efforts on CSR.The enterprises are implementing CSR initiatives inthe form of code of conducts (COC).

Depending on the industry and activity of enterprise,the content of COC varies. Code of conduct has theguidelines according to what enterprise itself and allits stakeholders have to conduct the business and italso enlists the responsibilities of the various firmsinvolved. The COC could be of three types

◆ Type 1 is imposed by the enterprise on its ven-dors. This is a voluntarily agreement between thetwo. No certificate is required in these COCs.

◆ Type 2 includes outcomes of International LaborOrganization (ILO) treaties, Ethical Trading Ini-tiative (ETI) initiatives etc.

◆ Type 3 requires issuance of certificates for imple-mentation. These certificates are issued by inde-pendent third parties. Various COCs under thiscategory are SA 8000, ISO 14001, WRAP, FLAand OHSAS 18001.

5.1. Social Accountability 8000 (SA 8000)This standard lays down terms and conditions for theorganization to function in order to be socially ac-countable. It also certifies organizations that complywith its norms. The certificate is issued on the basis ofthe audits conducted by third party. The objective ofthis standard for social accountability of company isto make it to

a) Form and implement guidelines to manage theissues that it can control or affect.

b) Show to the interested parties that its proceed-ings are in conformance to the standard.

Overview of the requirements of this standard is asfollows◆ The standard require of the company to work for

eradication of child labor. The company and allits subcontractors/suppliers shall not use childlabor. The company shall promote education forchildren as per ILO Recommendation 146. Thecompany has to make it sure that no child is madeto work during school hours and no child or youngworker is made to work under unsafe and hazard-ous conditions.

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◆ The standard require of the company to work foreradication of forced labor. The company and allits subcontractors/suppliers shall not use/supportforced labor. There must be clear documentedproof about the employee-employer relationship.

◆ The company shall take care of the health andsafety of the workers. It must provide safe andhygienic working conditions. It shall ensure thatno accident or injury happen during work. Cleanbathrooms, safe drinking water and sanitary fa-cilities for food storage shall be available for allpersons.

◆ Everyone has right to join or form unions andbargain collectively. The company shall respectthis right of people. If the right to freedom ofassociation and collective bargaining is prohib-ited under law then company shall arrange forparallel means for bargaining.

◆ The company shall not commit, allow or supportdiscrimination in hiring, promotion, increments,training, suspension or retirement on the basis ofage, sex, religion, nationality etc.

◆ The company shall not, in any case use corporalpunishment, mental or physical coercion and ver-bal abuse as disciplinary practices.

◆ Working hours should be as per law and industrystandards. The workweek should be as definedby law but not to be exceeded by 48 hours on aregular basis. Employee shall be given at leastone day off in a week of seven days. Overtimesshall not be forced.

◆ The person shall be paid in such a manner thathis earnings could match the minimum wagesnorms. Overtimes shall be paid at premium rates.Deductions in wages shall not be made for disci-plinary purposes.

◆ The company shall ensure and maintain recordsto show that its suppliers and subcontractors alsomeet the requirements of this act [11].

5.2. Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production(WRAP)It is the world's largest factory-based social compli-ance certification program for the apparel industry.WRAP is an independent organization that promoteslegal as well as ethical manufacturing around the globe.It gives certification to the companies adhering to its12 production principles. It also arranges for the edu-cational programmes about its principles. The WRAP'sprinciples are derived from the law of the land andfrom the conventions of international labor organiza-tion.

WRAP is a group of social compliance experts andnot dependent on any external source for revenuegeneration. It does not receive any grant from thegovernments to run its functions. It is not a member-ship organization and hence does not receive anymembership fee. It is financially sound and revenue isgenerated through registrations, monitor training andaccreditation fees only. The majority of its boards ofdirectors are not affiliated to the apparel industry. Thisadds to prevent the biasness in evaluation. WRAP's 12production principles are as follows

◆ The factories have to comply with laws andworkplace regulations.

◆ The factories are prohibited to use forced labor inall locations of operation.

◆ The factories are prohibited to use child labor inall locations of operation.

◆ The factories are responsible to provide a work-ing environment free of harassment or abuse inany form.

◆ Employees must be paid at least the minimumtotal compensation in accordance with local law.

◆ Working hours in a day and working days in aweek shall not exceed the norms as per the lawof the country.

◆ The factories shall not allow or support dis-crimination in hiring, promotion, increments, train-ing, suspension or retirement on the basis of age,sex, religion; nationality etc. benefits shall begiven on the basis of ability to perform the job.

◆ The factories shall ensure healthy and safe work-ing environment in all locations of operation.

◆ The factories shall respect right of freedom ofassociation and collective bargaining.

◆ The factories shall abide by the environmentalrules of the country in all locations of operation.

◆ The factories shall abide by the customs laws ofthe country.

◆ The factories shall maintain security proceduresto prevent the uncertified cargo into outboundshipments [12].

5.3. Fair Labor Association (FLA) Workplace Codeof ConductThis code of conduct comprises the standards that areaimed at ensuring humane and ethical working condi-tions. These standards are derived from the rulings ofInternational Labor Organization and globally acceptedgood labor practices.

Companies affiliated to FLA have to comply with all

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concerned laws of the country in which labors areemployed. If there arises any conflict between the stan-dards of FLA and local governing law, then higheststandard should be followed.

FLA works for continuous improvement in workingconditions by making sustainable policies for safe andethical working environment.

FLA workplace code of conduct comprises that theremust clear documented employer employee relation-ship. The companies are prohibited to use forced laborin all locations of operation. The companies are pro-hibited to use child labor in all locations of operation.The companies are responsible to provide a workingenvironment free of harassment or abuse in any form.Employees must be paid at least the minimum totalcompensation in accordance with local law. Workinghours in a day and working days in a week shall notexceed the norms as per the law of the country. Thecompanies shall not allow or support discrimination inhiring, promotion, increments, training, suspension orretirement on the basis of age, sex, religion; national-ity etc. benefits shall be given on the basis of abilityto perform the job. The companies shall ensure healthyand safe working environment in all locations of op-eration. The companies shall respect right of freedomof association and collective bargaining. [13]

5.4. Occupational Health and Safety Assessment Se-ries (OHSAS)The objective behind the development of OHSAS18001 is to achieve the integration of quality manage-ment systems (ISO 9001), environmental managementsystems (ISO 14001) and occupational health and safetymanagement systems. OHSAS 18001 and 18002 aredeveloped to provide a recognizable standard for oc-cupational health and safety against which existingmanagement tools could be evaluated and certified.OHSAS provides guidelines only for the occupationalsafety not about the quality of product and services.Any organization that wishes to eliminate or mitigatethe occupational risks and hazards to its employees orother stakeholder can use the OHSAS's guidelines todevelop a sustainable management system to controlthe accidents and risks associated with the job.

5.5. International Organization for Standardization(ISO) 14001This standard deals with impacts on the environmentcaused by an organization. Environmental impact canbe defined as:

"Any change in the environment, whether adverse orbeneficial, wholly or partially resulting from anorganization's activities, products or services" [14].After industrial revolution in nineteenth century, withthe advent of mechanization adverse impacts of growthcame into force. These impacts were increasing levelof pollution and rapidly depleting non renewable natu-ral resources. To counter these changes, environmentalmanagement system was thought upon. With the pas-sage of time need for a well defined documented en-vironment management system also has grown tocounter these impacts along with latest concerns ofglobal warming and ozone layer depletion.BS7750:1992 was the first environmental standarddeveloped by the British Standards Institute (BSI) in1992. Such standards at national level were present inmany countries.

There was a need to develop a standard that could beused globally as per the requirement of changing busi-ness structure. Hence ISO 14001 came into existenceand first published in 1996.

The requirements to be maintained by the companiesseeking IS0 14001certification are as follows:

◆ The company has to develop an environmentalpolicy.

◆ The company has to identify the environmentalaspects and evaluate the concerned environmen-tal impacts.

◆ The company has to establish the legal and regu-latory requirements.

◆ The company has to develop and maintain envi-ronmental targets and objectives.

◆ The company has to Implement a documentedsystem, including operational controls, elementsof training and dealing with emergencies

◆ The company has to Monitor and measure theoperational activities continuously.

◆ The company has to conduct Environmental in-ternal auditing.

◆ The company has to review of systems to ensurecontinuing effectiveness and suitability [14].

6. Few important standards concerned tosustainability and environmentThe textile materials since fibre cultivation to apparelmanufacturing are associated with environmental pol-lution and exploitation of various raw materials. Evenagricultural based natural fibres too create threat toenvironment, ecology and biodiversity. The cotton is

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natural renewable fibre seems eco-friendly in naturebut its cultivation too requires huge amount of water[15], synthetic fertilizers and pesticides [16]. Furthertextile wet processing processes involves numerousharsh and toxic chemicals. Most of these toxic pesti-cides, chemicals are non bio degradable and affectingthe human health tremendously.

It is social responsibility to corporate textile sector togive concern to sustainable textile production as wellas recycling and eco-friendly disposable of used tex-tile products. There are certain certification markswhich help the companies in selecting raw materialsas well as help the customers to choose sustainableproducts. Few of important standards are as follows:

6.1. The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)This standard ensures the organic status of textilesfrom harvesting of the raw materials through environ-mentally and socially responsible manufacturing allthe way to labelling in order to provide credible assur-ance to the consumer [17]. This standard certifies thatsustainable farming is carried out with use of tradi-tional seed. No synthetic fertilizers, pesticides and otherchemicals have been employed which may be harmfulfor environment or biodiversity. Further no harmfulchemicals have been used in textile wet processing.This standard also ensures fair and safe working con-ditions.

6.2. EU ECO LabelIt is certification mark for Greener Products. Thiscertification mark ensures that product is safer forenvironment as well as for wearer from production tothroughout their life cycle.

The certification mark ensures that minimal use ofwater and energy in production has been carried out.Textile wet processing is carried out with natural orenvironmental friendly dyes and chemicals. Carcino-genic dyes, mutagenic or harmful dyes have been pro-hibited. It ensures biodegradability of detergent andchemicals utilised in processes [18].

6.3. Fair trade"Cotton farmers are in a very vulnerable position atthe bottom of supply chains and as such are particu-larly susceptible to exploitation and injustice in thetrading system. They are severely affected by the fluc-tuations in world cotton prices that are often below theproduction cost" [19]. The Fair trade Certification Markensures that farmers are getting fair prices for their

cultivated crops and receive financial assistance wher-ever required. Therefore purchase of these certifiedproducts encourage farmers of cotton producers andimprove their working and living condition [20].

6.4. Oeko-Tex 100Oeko-Tex 100 Standard comprehensively addresses theHuman Ecology component of textile products. It evalu-ates and screens for any harmful substances presentwithin processed textiles, which are intended to comeinto contact with consumers. The OEKO-TEX® Stan-dard 100 is an independent testing and certificationsystem for textile raw materials, intermediate and endproducts at all stages of production [21].

6.5. Ecocert StandardsThese standards such as Organic Content Standardguarantee the traceability of organic textiles. Ecologi-cal & Recycled Textiles standard claim the environ-mental friendly quality [22, 23].

6.6. Indian Standard for Organic Textile (ISOT)This Indian standard also ensures that products con-sisting organic textile material with full social respon-sibility [24].

6.7. OE BlendedThe OE Blended applies to all goods, which containsa minimum of 5 percent organic cotton and it can beused for blends that contain any fiber, including con-ventional cotton [25].

6.8. OE 100The OE 100 tracks the purchase, handling, and use of100 percent certified organic cotton fiber in yarns,fabrics and finished goods through the use of transac-tion certificates.

7. CSR policy formulation and monitoringAll the above mentioned standards do signify compli-ance of companies to the corporate social responsibili-ties but The Companies Act, 2013 clearly demarcatesCSR from charity and does not position it as a 'moralresponsibility' for companies. The accent appears tobe on employing standard business principles to de-velop and roll-out CSR strategies and programs, so asto optimize resources and maximize impact. By re-quiring CSR policy formulation and monitoring to begoverned by a Corporate Responsibility Committee(CSRC) comprised at least three directors (one of whomshould be a non-independent director), the Bill is en-suring that CSR becomes a Board level agenda and is

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therefore viewed strategically and subject to a highlevel of scrutiny within the company. The activities tobe undertaken need to be clearly spelt out in the CSRPolicy, approved by the Board, monitored carefullyand will need to be disclosed in the Directors Report;a CSR 'return', akin to an Income Tax return will haveto be filed each year. There are fines and/or imprison-ment stipulated for non-compliance on disclosures.

The Act also specifies the area in which the expendi-ture could be accounted as contribution in the CSRactivities. Categories mentioned in the act are as fol-lows

◆ Eradiating extreme hunger and poverty.◆ Promotion of education.◆ Ensuring environmental sustainability.◆ Gender equality.◆ Reducing child mortality.◆ Improving maternal health [4].

8. CSR and competitivenessComplying with CSR norms requires an entire mecha-nism to make and implement the policies and alsoframework is required for continuous monitoring tomake the policies sustainable. This will add to the costof operating the business. As direct monitory invest-ment is required to be made to comply with The Com-panies Act, 2013, so expenses of the companies willincrease. This will lower the profits and cost competi-tiveness of the product made by industries in the inter-national market may get fall. So businessmen and in-dustrialists may raise concerns over loss of the busi-ness and profit. The other competing countries likeCambodia and Vietnam, which offers textile, and ap-parel products at low cost due to cheaper labor avail-ability will definitely have an edge over India. Thismay reduce the export of textile and apparel productsas buyer may prefer the products at low cost fromcompeting countries.

All these concerns are not baseless. But these con-cerns do not justify corporations from being abstainedfrom its social responsibilities. There are several ben-efits to comply with CSR norms that can overcome thelosses. Few benefits are:

◆ Sustainability includes reduce recycling and re-use of resources. That will also lead to reductionof operating cost.

◆ By investing on its employees to comply withvarious standards like OHSAS, motivation of the

employees to work for the company also improves.That will add to the increase in output and effi-ciency. If health of the employees is good, thenthere will be less absenteeism.

◆ If the employees are satisfied with the workingenvironment then retention will improve and thatwill result in low training cost of the employees.

◆ CSR is also a way to improve the public percep-tion of the company, and over half of the compa-nies do so to brand the company among thepeople. Hence brand value of the company isincreased if it involves in CSR activities.

◆ Many global buyers like to business with theorganizations complying with the CSR norms.Hence indulging in CSR activities may get betterbusiness opportunities for the companies.

9. ConclusionCorporate sector are main pillar in the societal devel-opment. The Companies Act 2013 enhanced the CSRactivities significantly in India. Although, complianceof the CSR in textile sector is poor. Most of the com-panies, those are involved in CSR do it for the purposeof brand awareness among the people. But now timehas come when pressure from consumers, internationalinstitutions and local governments made it compulsoryfor the organizations to comply with the CSR norms.Many independent bodies are available for the certifi-cation of the organizations complying with their stan-dards. This is very helpful in ensuring that whichcompanies are complying with the norms and to whatextent. It is well recognized that fulfillment of Corpo-rate Social Responsibility has benefitted corporatesector as well as society mutually. Definitely, textilesector will be more conscious in fulfilling the socialresponsibility by complying all the concerned rulesand regulations and contribute towards societal andsustainable developments ahead.

References

1. Phil Watts, Lord Holme., Corporate Social Re-sponsibility: Meeting Changing Expectations,World Business Council for Sustainable Devel-opment (WBSCD), Geneva, 3 (1998).

2. Mazurkiewicz, P. Corporate Environmental Re-sponsibility. http://siteresources.worldbank.org/E X T D E V C O M S U S D E V T / R e s o u r c e s /csrframework.pdf, Cited on February 21, 2015,

3. The impact of corporate social responsibility onbusiness performance - can it be measured, andif so, how? (2012). www.culturaldiplomacy.org,Cited on February 25, 2015

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4. THE COMPANIES ACT, 2013.http://www.mca.gov.in/Ministry/pdf/CompaniesAct2013.pdf.Cited on February 25,2015.

5. http://samhita.org/the-new-companies-bill-a-new-dawn-for-corporate-social-responsibility-csr-in-india/. Cited on February 25, 2015.

6. Mohammed Belal Uddin, M. R., Three Dimen-sional Aspects of Corporate Social Responsibil-ity. Daffodil International University Journal ofBusiness and Economics, 3 (1), 199 (2008).

7. http://www.bombaychamber.com/image002.jpg.Cited on 23 Aug 2015

8. Ministry of Textiles, Note on Indian textile andapparel clothing exports. http://texmin.nic.in/Cited on 23 Aug 2015

9. Krishnamoorthy, S., Garment industry and laborrights in India: The post MFA context, New Delhi:Center for Education and Communication, 15,(2006).

10. Shanmugam, K., Environment CSR initiatives ofmanufacturing units in India - An empirical study.African Journal of Business Management, 7(16),1560, (2013).

11. Social Accountability 8000, Social Accountabil-ity International. New York:, 2014. www.sa-intl.org/

12. Production Facility Handbook. Arlington: World-wide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP),(2010). http://www.wrapcompliance.org

13. FLA Workplace Code of Conduct and Compli-ance Benchmarks. Fair Labor Association. Wash-ington, Fair Labor Association, (2011).www.fairlabor.org/our-work/code-of-conduct

14. Whitelaw, K. ISO 14001 Environmental SystemsHandbook (Second ed.). (E. Butterworth-

Heinemann, Ed.) Burlington: ElsevierButterworth-Heinemann, 16, (2004).

15. Eija M. Kalliala, and Pertti Nousiainen, Life CycleAssessment, Environmental profile of cotton andpolyester-cotton fabrics, AUTEX Research Jour-nal, 1 (1), 8 (1999).

16. Puri S N, Murthy K S and Sharma O P 'IPM forsustainable crop production,' Management' inSundaram V et al , Handbook of cotton in India,ISCI, Bombay, 548, (1999).

17. http://www.global-standard.org/ Cited on 28th Aug2015

18. http://www.neutral.com/ Cited on 28th Aug 201519. http://www.neutral.com/

parse.aspfunc = page&pageid=2276&languageid = 45389355 Why Fairtrade Cited on21th Sept 2015

20. http://www.neutral.com/ Cited on 21th Sept 201521. https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/manufacturers/

concept/oeko_tex_standard_100/oeko_tex_standard_100.xht Cited on 21th Sept2015

22. HTTP://WWW.ECOCERT.IN/ORGANIC-ECO-LOGICAL-TEXTILES.HTML Cited on 28th Aug2015

23. http://www.ecoconso.be/achatsverts/sites/mkw/files/uploads/ECOCERT.pdf Cited on 28th Aug2015

24. http://www.ecocert.in/Indian%20Standard%20for%20Organic%20Textiles%20(ISOT)%20standards.pdf Cited on2nd Oct 2015

25. leexchange.org/standards-integrity/standards/oe-standards Cited on 2nd Oct 2015

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Some suggestions, based on my experience in textile units are given, forcost control in textile processing units. Unconventional measures are dis-cussed in more details and the conventional ones are touched upon. Thecontrol of power cost is not discussed.

What cannot be measured cannot be controlled. Many textile units do notmeasure many input resources and thus are unaware of the wastage theyincur.

Colours & ChemicalsColours & Chemicals form the single large variable cost in a textile Pro-cess house and the systematic record of its cost, analysis and costing forproper pricing is necessary for management control. One aspect of thecontrol, is the monitoring of the purchase price of the Colours & Chemi-cals considering the strength/quality of the item in terms of (a)lesser quantityconsumed and (b)the quality aspects like fastness, with the price of theitem.

The other aspect is to control the consumption through reduction of wast-age (and re-dyeing) and cheaper substitution.

The third aspect is to fix a price based on the associated cost of theparticular dyeing process. Although the price fixed for a fabric for Dis-perse, Vat, Azo, Reactive, Direct etc. are usually different, only a broaddistinction within the same type of dyes are made for simplicity and oftenfor lack of records. Finer distinction like very pale, pale, medium, dark,very dark, florescent and others should also be made. For each colourshade used in Dyeing, a standard recipe with further details like temp.dyeing time and expected re-dyeing% (based on difficulty in dyeing ormatching the shades) etc. are to be prepared. Periodically, say once weekor at least once a month, each dye -should be reconciled for the standardand the actual monthly consumption. A similar exercise can be done forexpensive chemicals(only)leaving other chemicals -as chemical cost isusually less. Such an exercise, will highlight a large variations in con-sumption due to (a)more re-dyeing, (b)actual quantity of colours used varyfrom standard or Computer Colour matching-recipe, (c)difference in strengthof colour between standard and the actual,(d)the colour used was very oldetc.

Controlling the various parameters that affect the dyeing quality like(a)correct quantity of the colour as per the standard recipe,(b) propercolour strength, (c)PH of dye bath, (d)rising rate, holding time, coolingrate of temperature and for this the required steam temperature, (e)substratequality in terms of adequacy in mercerising, scouring, de-sizing etc. and(f)the post dyeing treatments etc. are to be looked at. All these meanmeasuring all the factors affecting dyeing periodically and monitoringthem.

Mercerising,Scouring,BleachingThe Baume/Twaddle, concentration and temperature for Caustic soda used,the speed of merserising machine, the nip pressures, effectiveness ofwashing etc. are to be looked at, to avoid/reduce re-mercerising.

S. Srinivasan is a M.Tech(Textile Technology) withadditional qualifications likeFCMA and MBA .

He has industrial experienceof more than 30 years,mostly in Composite TextileMills and a couple of yearsof experience in InjectionMoulding (Plastic) units inIndia and abroad.

He retired last as Director(Technical) from Bhojraj ind.Plc, Lagos, Nigeria and hasbeen a practicing CostAccountant since 2010.

His areas of interest are :Cost Reduction throughEffective Utilisation ofResources, Cost BenefitAnalysis, Projects, ProductMix Selection, LinearProgramming, InventoryControl, M.I.S etc.

Some Suggestions on Cost Control inTextile Processing Unit.

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With changing fuel price, the economics of CausticRecovery should be re-evaluated.Suitable process control (iodine test, absorbency, white-ness etc)is required to check effectiveness of scouringand bleaching to avoid reprocessing.

Steam/Thermo pack boiler usageFuel consumption in boilers forms the other large costitem in a Process House.◆ Thermic oil has been found to be more efficient

in heating in providing higher temperature (upto300-3200C) and consistency and preferred in placeof steam -wherever possible. For instance, instenters, Printing drying chambers, etc. The ra-diators are to be modified for thermic oil heating.The cost benefit analysis show that such conver-sions are worth taking up. Some units still usesteam and cry often about less steam pressureand associated less steam temperature, resultingin reduction in speed of the machine.

◆ One can use thermic fluid to heat the bath inopen vessals also. (ensuring there is no leakageof the thermic fluid into the bath).Usually in openvassals max temperature of 750C is attained inthe bath when using thermic fluid. For the restof the higher temperature required, steam can beused.

◆ It is a common site in Bleach-house that a plumeof steam vapours above the open vessels likejiggers, soapers due to excess supply of steam tothe bath to maintain a certain temperature. Oftenthe steam valves are fully opened and kept so tillthe process is over. In a place where 900C isenough the operator plays safe in keeping 99 or1000C by keeping the steam valve fully openresulting in wastage of steam. To avoid the wast-age, it is better to install auto temperature gaugeto adjust steam valve (or at least install tempera-ture gauge to manually adjust the steam valve) tomaintain the required temperature.

◆ Planning in machine loading will reduce fuelconsumption. To the extent possible, run HeatSetting(Thermosetting) on all stenters, continu-ously for a few days in a week and when heatsetting is completed, on the other days in theweek, reduce the thermic boiler temperature. Thiswill save energy (but will need more storage-trolleys and space). In case of steam boilers, in-stead of 10bar pressure, lesser pressure will dofor non heatsetting process.

◆ The pressure setting on compressor can also beset to the required level. Often higher pressures

are set to take care of pressure loss due to leak-ages. It is better to attend to leakages regularlythan to set higher pressures.

◆ Regularly (at least every month)-a)check nip ex-pression, b)vacuum extractor effectiveness andonce a week, c)clean radiators, d) check workingof steam traps and siphons, f)clean the surface ofdryers, g) nip roll pressure in washers, etc toimprove heat transfer.

◆ Ensure no air infiltration in hot air chamber doors,no over drying and no idle running of machine.These measures will save energy.

◆ Install heat recovery system in flues of boilers,DG Sets, steam hoods and recovery of heat fromhot liquids in Sizing, jiggers, washers etc.

◆ Use double- end processing if there is sufficientwidth on the machine- to save energy.

◆ If wet stretching is possible for stretching fabricsfor printing, do not dry the cloth before stretch-ing and waste energy on drying.

◆ Calculate HUE (Heat Utilisation Efficiency) tak-ing fabric output and fuel input.

Labour AllocationIn some units, the operators do material handling also.Itis better to keep unskilled labour for material handlingthan using skilled labour(operators) to do the same astheir additional job.

Planning : Advance planning on m/c loading will re-duce waiting for goods, trolleys etc.(Numbering thetrolleys/container boxes and ear marking the areas forinput and output of each m/c will help in m/c loadingand keep the machine engaged with a little down time.The instruction sheet showing the sequencing of load-ing may be spoon fed indicating the trolley or batchroll numbers to avoid mistakes. Plan the proper pro-cessing time at each machine and run the suitablecapacity boiler to suit the load. Shutting down a boiler-when not required is a sure way to save energy.

Modification of machinesIn case dryers are in tandem with merceriser, soaper orany other m/c, make arrangements to use the dryersseparately -when required. This arrangement will helpwhen driers are the bottle neck.

Display Machine used timeInstall LED that display in bold the hrs the m/c hasrun in the shift. With this, any Supervisor or Managercan immediately find the long idle m/cs at a glancewhen taking rounds in the dept. and take correctivesteps.◆ Use storage batch rolls or the trolley boxes to the

full to reduce the number of trolleys. This will

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also reduce the number of trips to be made. Theflooring should be even to facilitate smooth move-ment of trolleys. In case, partial boxes are filledfor the left over material, exhaust the partiallyfilled boxes first to release the boxes soon. Donot batch shorter width fabric on wider batch rollsespecially when only a few wider batch rolls arein stock.

◆ Go from lighter shades to darker shades withoutm/c cleaning instead of processing random shadesand clean the m/c frequently.

◆ Use optimum batch size.◆ Input-output reconciliation from Grey fabric to

packing is a must for each quality taking intoaccount elongation/contraction and weight loss.This is necessary because, at packing (output),some qualities like Fents, Rags and Chindies aremeasured in Kg and so proper conversion factoris required to convert to equivalent input metres-after considering elongation/contraction andweight loss. Many processing units fail to doproper reconciliation.

◆ Practice cutting at the defects to remove the de-fective piece. Cutting at the fold (i.e at everymeter or yard fold) will increase "Value Loss".

◆ Where goods are sold in pieces (towel, dhoti,saree, blankets) check the actual length every dayon random basis. The loss in this area often goesunnoticed.

◆ At packing, if a bundle contains certain numberof pieces, weigh the bundles and record the wt.At random re-weigh the packed bundle and com-pare with the standard weight.This will high lightif any extra pieces are added in the bundle whilepacking -for wrong motives.

ConclusionIn a competitive environment even a small saving isneeded to improve the profit. Systematic working, goinginto details that affect cost, measuring, assessing andtaking immediate corrective steps will give an upperedge to an organisation compared to their competitorsnot taking such steps.

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1. IntroductionBone is among the hard tissue of the body and consti-tutes the framework of the human body. It is one of themost highly transplanted tissues and the number of graft-ing surgeries of the bone is increasing with exponentialrate. Thus the solutions are being sought through bonetissue engineering by using various biomaterials, cells,and factor therapy in synergy. The various factors thathave to be considered while designing a bone scaffoldinclude the site of the bone tissue, the size of the defector damage, mechanical stresses and soft tissue that coverthe damaged site. Autografts are the most favouredchoice of the surgeons but it has its own limitations.Current approaches in skeletal reconstructive surgeryuse biomaterials, autografts or allografts, although re-strictions on all these techniques exist. These restric-tions include donor site morbidity and donor shortagefor autografts, immunological barriers for allografts, andthe risk of transmitting infectious diseases. Numerousartificial tissue substitutes containing metals, ceramics,and polymers were introduced to maintain skeletal func-tion. However, each material has specific disadvantages,and none of these can perfectly substitute for autograftsin current clinical practice. The use of biomaterials isa common treatment option in clinical practice. Oneimportant reason for the priority of tissue grafts overnonliving biomaterials is that they contain living cellsand tissue-inducing substances, thereby possessing bio-logical plasticity. Research is currently in progress to

develop cell-containing hybrid materials and to createreplacement tissues that remain interactive after im-plantation, imparting physiological functions as well asstructure to the tissue or organ damaged by disease ortrauma. The researchers have carried out various stud-ies in the field of bone tissue engineering by adoptinga multi-disciplinary approach for regenerating the hardtissue. In this regard, the study of the basic bone struc-ture along with the hierarchical organisation of the tis-sue from the macro level to the nano level is necessary.The macroscopic structural level of the bone is consti-tuted of a dense shell of cortical bone which has thefunction of support and protection. The interior of thebone consist of porous cancellous bone thus optimisingweight transfer and minimising the friction at the ar-ticulating joints. The cancellous bone is constituted ofan interconnecting framework of trabeculae with bonemarrow-filled free spaces. The cortical bone is com-posed of repeating osteon units. The trabeculae andosteon units primarily consist of collagen fibres. 20-30concentric layers of fibres are present in the osteons,called lamellae. They are arranged at 45° surroundingthe central canal, and consist of the vascular networkcontaining blood vessels and nerves. At the microscopicor molecular level, bone tissue can be represented as acomposite, consisting of cells embedded in the extra-cellular matrix (ECM). The significant role in thelocalisation and presentation of biomolecular signals isplayed by the ECM present in the bone vital for neo-

The series of chapters under the title, 'Textile scaffolds in Tissue Engineering' are being published in theJournal of Textile Association which cover the role of textiles for various scaffolds, the type and form ofmaterials used for making scaffolds, application of these scaffolds for recovery of various organs and thescope of textile technology in tissue engineering scaffolds in future.This series is written primarily as an introductory text for an audience comprised of those interested oralready working in, textile related areas, who wish to acquire broad knowledge of tissue engineeringscaffolds and the application of textiles in it.In the previous chapter, the use of textile technology for the preparation of bandages in the medical andhealth related area were covered in detail. The application of bandages to the various types of wounds andtheir function in the process of wound healing was discussed. The different types of skin wounds, thevarious approaches that are employed for their cure and the application of textile technology in woundhealing were also discussed in detail in the previous chapter.In the present chapter, an attempt is made to make the readers understand the textile technology involvedin the bone tissue engineering. The requirements of bone tissue engineering, the various materials used forengineering of the hard tissue and the recent advancements done for the replacement of the bone tissueare covered in the chapter.

Chapter 10: Textile scaffolds for bonerecovery and replacement

Pallavi Madiwale, Mrs. Rachana Shukla, Dr. R V Adivarekar

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tissue morphogenesis. Collagen fibrils are arranged witha 67-nm periodicity and 40 nm gaps where hydroxya-patite crystals are situated. The stiffness of bone is thefunction of the mineral phase present in the tissue. Thehierarchical organisation in the bone tissue is respon-sible for the toughness. The lowest hierarchical levelcontributes to the outstanding bone fracture resistance.This unique arrangement of the hierarchical organisationenables bone to exhibit mechanical properties far supe-rior to those of its single components. Thus the re-searchers have to study and develop a strategy for re-covery and regeneration of the bone tissue mimickingthis hierarchical organisation.

The bone tissue shows the tendency of self healing.Bone show innate capacity to repair itself, and thisself-repair can be utilised to repair small bone defects,heal non-unions in the bone, and lengthen short bones.A complex regenerative process is initiated for fracturehealing of the bone. Two mechanisms can be adoptedby the tissue for healing of the fracture; primary andsecondary. In primary healing, a new hard tissue is laiddown without any intermediate. It is rarely used ap-proach and the certain types of surgeries are used forfracture healing. The secondary mechanism of healingis more commonly used. Immature and disorganisedbone (i.e., callus) is formed between the fragments.

There is a very high level research being conducted inall parts of the world in the field of bone tissue engi-neering. However unlike integra, (artificial skin substi-tute) the integration of all tissue properties and func-tions in a single biomaterial system is still a researchchallenge unaccomplished.

2. Requirements for an ideal scaffold for bone tis-sue engineeringThe tissue engineering is such a field that the require-ments of any scaffold are specific according to the enduse application. The bone tissue as mentioned earlier isa very complex structure and and the requirements arediverse and also essential.

◆◆◆◆◆ Bio-compatibilityThe primary requirement of bone scaffolds for any fur-ther use is biocompatibility. Biocompatibility of a scaf-fold is described as its ability to support normal cellu-lar activity including molecular signalling systems with-out any local and systematic toxic effects to the hosttissue. An ideal bone scaffold must be osteo-conduc-tive i.e. the scaffold should allow the bone cells toadhere, proliferate, and form extracellular matrix on itssurface and pores. The scaffold should also be able to

induce new bone formation through biomolecular sig-naling and recruiting progenitor cells, a property knownas osteo-induction. Two main theories have been pro-posed to explain the osteo-inductivity observed in thematerials. The first is based on the biomaterial surfacefeatures that absorb and present osteo-inductive factorsto the surrounding cells. The second hypothesis is thatthe calcium phosphate-based materials release calciumand phosphate ions, which later influence stem celldifferentiation into bone cells. No conclusive evidenceexists for either of these hypotheses. Furthermore, anideal scaffold needs to form blood vessels in or aroundthe implant within few weeks of implantation to ac-tively support nutrient, oxygen, and waste transport.

◆◆◆◆◆ Mechanical propertiesThe mechanical properties of an ideal bone scaffoldshould match host bone properties. The load transferproperties of the scaffold should be good enough dur-ing the entire bone reformation process. The mechani-cal properties also depend on whether the bone is acancellous or cortical bone and vary accordingly. Theproperties of the different bone structure can be under-stood by the difference in the properties of the twotypes; Young's modulus of cortical bone varies between15 and 20 GPa and that of cancellous bone between0.1 and 2 GPa; compressive strength is in the range of100 and 200 MPa for cortical bone, and between 2 and20 MPa for cancellous bone. Thus there is a large varia-tion in mechanical property and geometry and posses avery high challenge for the construction of 'ideal bonescaffold'.

◆◆◆◆◆ Pore sizeThe presence of pores is essential for cell activity totake place in the scaffolds. The pore size and the musthave property for scaffolds is interconnected porositywhere the pore size should be at least 100 mm in di-ameter for successful diffusion of essential nutrientsand oxygen for cell survivability. However, pore sizesin the range of 200-350 mm are found to be optimumfor bone tissue in-growth. Furthermore, recent studieshave indicated that multi-scale porous scaffolds involv-ing both micro and macro porosities can perform betterthan only macro porous scaffolds. Unfortunately, po-rosity reduces mechanical properties such as compres-sive strength, and increases the complexity for repro-ducible scaffold manufacturing. Researchers have ex-plored porous scaffolds using polymers, ceramics, com-posites and metals. Strength of dense bioceramic mate-rials matches close to the cortical bone, and differentpolymers to that of cancellous bone, however ceramic-polymer composite scaffolds are typically weaker than

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bone. Porous metallic scaffolds meet the mechanicalrequirements of bone, but fail to provide the necessaryimplant-tissue integration and add the concern relatedto metal ion leaching.

◆◆◆◆◆ BioresorbabilityBioresorbability is another crucial factor for scaffoldsin bone tissue regeneration. An ideal scaffold shouldnot only have similar mechanical properties that of thehost tissue, but also be able to degrade with time invivo, preferably at a controlled resorption rate and even-tually creating space for the new bone tissue to grow.The degradation behavior of the scaffolds should varybased on applications such as 9 months or more forscaffolds in spinal fusion or 3-6 months for scaffolds incranio-maxillofacial applications. Naturally, design andmanufacturing of multi-scale porous scaffolds havingideal composition including targeted biomolecules, me-chanical properties and related bioresorbability are someof the key challenges today towards their successfulimplementation in bone tissue engineering.

3. Biomaterials for Bone tissue engineeringThere are various biomaterials that are explored by theresearchers for bone tissue engineering. Different ma-terials are used for manufacturing scaffolds for bonetissue recovery and regeneration. A wealth of materialsare been developed to create appropriate regenerativehost micro-environments in an attempt to aid the heal-ing/regenerative processes. These include scaffolds suchas (i) bio-ceramics-incorporating hydroxyapatite or cal-cium phosphates that typically exhibit good bone inte-gration, are osteo-conductive and display a high com-pressive strength; (ii) natural polymers, such as extra-cellular matrix proteins (e.g. collagens, fibrin, elastin,alginate, hyaluronic acid) and xenogeneic derived ma-terials, are intrinsically biocompatible and have reachedclinical use with minimal adverse immunological re-ports; (iii) synthetic polymers-a variety of macromol-ecules (e.g. polyethylene glycol (PEG)) modulated onthe basis of their monomer constituents, the relativeratios of co-polymers and the interactions/functionalisation of polymer side chains creating a raftof materials for tissue engineering; and (iv) hydrogels-hydrated polymer chains, offer significant potential inthe delivery of cells and growth factors. These materi-als can typically support the adhesion of cells and otherECM proteins, enable migration of cells and facilitateincorporation of bioactive molecules and nutrients andtheir subsequent controlled targeted release, in timeand space.

Osteo-inductive or "smart" biomaterials have the abil-

ity to induce bone formation by instructing its surround-ing in vivo environment to form bone. An array ofbiomaterial families have demonstrated having osteo-inductive properties, including natural and synthetic ce-ramics i.e., hydroxyapatite (HA) and various calciumphosphate compositions, and their composites i.e., HA/poly-(lacticcoglycolic acid) (PLGA). A number of re-searchers have illustrated osteo-induction by calciumphosphate (CaP) based biomaterials in various physicalforms. Specifically, osteo-inductivity has been demon-strated with CaP based biomaterials in the form of sin-tered ceramics, cements, coatings, and coral derivedceramics in a variety of animal models. Other ceram-ics, such as alumina ceramic and porous bio-glass, havealso been recently identified as being osteo-conductive.In addition, polymer/ceramic composites, such as PLGA/HA, have been shown to be osteo-inductive and toinduce bone formation.

A number of synthetic and natural polymers, as well asceramics have been developed and identified asbiomaterials for BTE. The combination of two or morepolymers with enhanced functionalities, in the form ofco-polymers, polymer-polymer blends, or polymer-ce-ramic composites are being researched for bone tissueengineering.

Composite materials also are very crucial candidate forapplication as bone scaffolds because as mentioned ear-lier bone is a composite material composed of a mix ofinorganic hydroxyapatite crystals (HA) and organic col-lagen fibers. Furthermore, polymer ceramic compositescapitalize the advantages of each of its components(i.e., biodegradable polymer and ceramic materials), andhave demonstrated success in bone regeneration thatexceeds the results when these materials are used sepa-rately. Composites of HA and various polymers, in-cluding poly-(lactic acid) (PLA), PLGA, gelatin,chitosan, and collagen have been successfully fabri-cated and have demonstrated enhanced bone formationin vitro and/or in vivo. These materials are consideredto be bio-mimetic and to stimulate the formation, pre-cipitation, and deposition of calcium phosphate fromsimulated body fluid (SBF), resulting in enhanced bonematrix interface strength.

4. Fabrication techniquesDue to the complex and composite structure of humanbone the fabrication of the scaffold required for bonetissue engineering is also very complex. Hence the lat-est fabrication techniques are used for manufacturingthe scaffolds. Among various fabrication techniques,Solid free formation (SFF) or 3 D printing based tech-

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niques are probably the most widely studied for fabri-cating 3D interconnected porous scaffolds. Other than3D printing, the various methods like thermally inducedphase separation (TIPS), solvent casting/ particle leach-ing, microsphere sintering and scaffold coating are alsostudied for the manufacture of scaffolds. The techniquesof electro-spinning the biomaterials to create a 3D bonescaffold are also researched by the various researchersin the world.

Other than the various techniques that are used for thebone tissue engineering, the two textile approaches areextensively studied for the manufacturing of bone scaf-folds; viz. embroidered and non-woven technology.

Embroidery technology is explored for making bonescaffolds is due to the reason that it has many variablesavailable for the fabrication of scaffolds. The param-eters, like stitch length, stitch assembly, stitch density,and thread size give the researcher various array ofvariables to control and which can give variable poros-ity, surface area, and mechanical properties. Medical orbiocompatible thread materials with diameters of 50-250 mm can be processed directly via a multi-needleheader. A water-soluble nonwoven fabric (e.g., PVA)can be used as a base material. It is washed out afterthe embroidery process, so that a plane sheet consistingsolely of the processed fibre is generated. To create a3D structure, the plane structures are stacked. Interwo-ven 3D structure scan be obtained by embroidering oneply on another. The mechanical properties of the scaf-fold can be influenced by changing the stitch mode andassembly. An advantage of scaffolds made by embroi-

dery technology is the high content of interconnectingpores controlled by the manufacturing process. Theinterconnecting pore system can be maintained whenstacking the plane structures, as long as the plies arenot squeezed. Pore size and pore size distribution canbe controlled by stitch length and stacking arrange-ment. The main benefit of the embroidered scaffolds istheir plane quasi-2D appearance. Good permeation isprobable through the plane of the textile structure, whichis important for any treatment, such as surface modifi-cation or cell seeding.

Non-woven technology though is widely used technol-ogy throughout the medical scaffolding and regenera-tive medicine field, it has a significant importance forbone tissue engineering. Generally, nonwoven fabricsare highly porous, low-density fibrous structures hav-ing density less than 0.40 g/cm3. The internal porestructure is highly interconnected, and there is a rela-tively wide pore size distribution that can be manipu-lated during nonwoven fabric manufacturing. The ma-jority of fibres in nonwoven structures are arranged ina planar, x-y orientation, with only a limited number ofprocesses, notably air-laid, vertically lapped, cardedwebs, with needling and hydro-entangling capable ofproducing a degree of fibre orientation through-thick-ness. The fibre orientation distribution, which can bemanipulated during production of the nonwoven scaf-fold, strongly influences the isotropy of fabric proper-ties including directional mechanical properties and fluidtransport. Different nonwoven architectures can be pro-duced in the form of a scaffold depending upon theselection of manufacturing route.

About the Authors

Miss. Pallavi Madiwale is currently pursuing Ph.D.(Tech.) in Fibers and Textile Processing Technology inthe Department of Fibers and Textile Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, atInstitute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research areas of interest are Functionalfinishes, Encapsulation of speciality chemicals, Bio-materials and Tissue engineering.

Mrs. Rachana Shukla is currently pursuing Ph.D.(Tech.) in Fibers and Textile Processing Technology inthe Department of Fibers and Textile Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, atInstitute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research areas of interest are Textile colouration,Polymer science, Conservation of resources in textile wet processing and Effluent treatment.

Dr. Ravindra Adivarekar is currently Professor and Head of the Department of Fibres and Textiles Pro-cessing Technology at the Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. His research areas ofinterest are Textile colouration, Green processing of textiles, Medical textiles, Enzyme manufacturing andapplication, Natural dyes for textiles and cosmetics, Novel textile processing techniques and Textile com-posites. He has around 5 years of Industrial Experience mainly of Processing and Dyestuff manufacturingcompanies prior to being faculty for last 13 years. He has filed 2 patents and published more than 125papers in journals of national and International repute.

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The Textile Association (India) - South India Unitorganized various Seminars during 2015-16 at ShriKasthuri Sreenivasan Textile Museum, Coimbatore.

Unit organized a foundation day seminar on 23-05-2015. Shri G.K. Sundaram Centenary year memoriallecture was organized on the foundation day function.Unit President Mr. C. Soundaraj delivered the wel-come address. Mr. D. Krishnamurthy, Chairman, Coun-cil of Administration, SITRA unveiled the portraits ofthe founders of South India Unit.

Mr. Kasturi Sreenivasan, Founder Director, SITRA,Mr. G.V. Doraiswamy Naidu, Former Chairman ofCouncil of Administration, SITRA and Mr. G.K.Sundaram, Formar Chairman of Council of Adminis-tration, SITRA, and Chief Guest Mr. Krishnamurthyrevealed the significant

contribution of all the founders of South India Unit tothe growth and development of research in TextileIndustry. Then two technical papers were presented onthis occasion.◆ Dr. K.P. Chellamani, General Manager, SITRApresented a paper on "Recent developments in Cottonand its Processing".◆ Mr. K. Venkateswaran and Mr. C.V. Babu,TEMAC Marketing India Pvt. Ltd. presented a paperon "Energy Efficiency and Economics of Toyoto Airjet looms".

More than 110 members attended the seminar and was

The Textile Association (India)

TAI - South India Unit

a very good interaction with the speakers. Dr. T.A.Venkatachalam, Senior Managing Committee memberproposed vote of thanks with brief summing up.

Unit also organized Shri G.V. Doraiswamy NaiduMemorial Lecture on 25-08-2015.

Shri G.V. Doraiswamy Naidu was one of the foundersof The Textile association (India) - South India Unitand SITRA, Coimbatore. A memorable lecture wasorganized to recognize his contributions to the TextileIndustry. Mr. Venkatesan, Managing Director of Na-tional Cotton Sewing Threads, Chidambaram was theChief Guest of the function. Mr. T.L. Viswanathan,Unit Vice President delivered the welcome address.Mr. Venkatesan, Chief Guest delivered a special ad-dress and revealed the significant contribution of ShriG.V. Doraiswamy

Then a technical paper was presented on "The role ofInstrumentation in Energy Management (Energy Effi-ciency and Energy Conservation)"by Sonal InstrumentsIndia Pvt. Ltd. About 130 delegates attended the lec-ture and there was a good interaction on the EnergyMonitoring and saving aspects in the Electrical Distri-bution System. At the end Dr. T.A. Venkatachalam,Senior Managing Committee Member proposed thevote of thanks with a brief summing up.

Unit also organized Shri Kasturi Sreenivasan Memo-rial Lecture on 26-10-2015. Shri Kasturi Sreenivasanwas the one of the founders of The Textile Association(India) - South India Unit. He was also the founderDirector of SITRA and then the Vice Chairman ofCouncil of Administration for SITRA. A memoriallecture was organized by Unit to honor his contribu-tion to the research and developments in Textile In-dustry. Mr. T.L. Vishwanathan, Unit Vice Presidentwelcomed the gathering.

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Smt. Sailaia Suresh was the Chief Guest and he deliv-ered a special address on the significant contributionsof Shri Kasturi Sreenivasan. Then two technical pa-pers were presented on this occasion.

◆ "Recent Developments in Polyester Staple Fibres"by Mr. Rajendran, Reliance Industries Ltd.

◆ "Fancy Yarn Production" by Mr. M.T. Ravi,SKAAT Machine Works India Pvt. Ltd.

About 100 members attended the function and was agood interaction with the speakers on the recent devel-opments in Polyester Fibres and Fancy Yarn produc-tion in Ring Spinning machines.

Finally Dr. T.A. Venkatachalam, Senior ManagingCommittee Member proposed the vote of thanks witha brief summing up.

UNIT ACTIVITY

Seminar on Union Budget2016-2017

The Textile Association of India - Madhya PradeshUnit jointly with Spinner Club and M.P. Stores TextileMills Associations organized a Seminar on UnionBudget 2016-17 at Jall Sabhagrah on 01st March, 2016.Member of the association attended the seminar andprogramme. It was inaugurated with the deep-prawjalan.Mr. Ashok Veda, Hon. Secretary, TAI M.P. Unit wel-comed all the participants and delivered his welcomespeech.

Many highly qualified personalities attended the semi-nar, Ex Director of RBI and more than 10 CharteredAccountant was there.

Mr. Ashok Veda:-◆ Govt. wants to increase prominent saving up-to 2

Lakhs from 1.5 Lakhs by which the saving ofmiddle class will get increase

◆ Govt. wants to give high concession in exciseduty.

◆ Govt. wants to give relaxation in excise duty tothe Industries of Rs. 5 core.

TAI - Madhya Pradesh UnitMany Highly Qualified Personalities was there in theseminar, Ex Director of RBI and more than 10 Char-tered Accountant was there.

Speech was given by following Speakers:-(1) Dr. J.L. Bhandari(2) C.S. Ajit Jain(3) C.A. Sunil Jain(4) C.A. Subhash Deshpandey(5) Dr. Kamlesh Bhandari(6) Mr. M.C. Rawat

(1) Dr. Jayantilal Lal Bhandari: -The speaker Mr. Jayantilal Ji Bhandari (Economist) ofBudget discussion said that "Finance Minister Mr. ArunJaitely made budget by focusing on 9 modules realchallenges of Rural Economics, Basic Structure and


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Skill development Etc. New Budget plays an impor-tant role to gives new life to Agriculture, Rural Devel-opment and Basic Structure area and also will givenew opportunity of Employment and helpful to in-crease purchase power.

(2) C.S. Ajit Jain:-"OVERALL THE BUDGET WAS GOOD

1. After 77 years of RBIAct, 1935 Finance Ministertouched need of amending the act. The newBankruptcy Act, 2017 shall come into force whichwill result in solving greatest problems of NPASin PSU Banks.

2. Positive sign of this budget was strict actionagainst the wilful defaulters.

3. Government sanctioned Rs.25000 Crore this yearto banks for their capital adequacy and to im-prove their liquidity out of a total of Rs.2 lacCrore.

4. Budget2016 seems very positive for startups &youngsters, for example companies shall get in-corporated in a single day.

5. Various amendments in companies act will bepassed in this budget session which will simplifythe companies act. Government is keen in en-hancement of corporate culture.

6. No change in long term capital gain policy iswelcomed by market which can be seen by posi-tive response of market.

(3)Mr. M.C. Rawat:-(a) Central : Union Finance Minister, Shri Arun Jetley,presented Union Budget in the Parliament on 29thFebruary, 2016, which included :-◆ Optional Cenvat route remains unchanged for

spinning, weaving and processing.◆ 2% excise duty without input tax credit or 12.5%

with input tax credit on branded readymade gar-ments and made-up articles of textiles with a retailprice of Rs.1000 and above.

◆ Excise Duty of 12.5% (increased from 6%) onPSF/PFY manufactured from plastic scrap orwaste including PET bottles, if input credit isclaimed.

◆ Custom Duty of 2.5% (reduced from 5%) onimport of specified fabric of value equivalent to

1% of FOB Value of exports in preceding finan-cial year, for manufacture of textile garments forexports.

◆ Basic custom duty of 2.5% (reduced from 5%)on pulp of wood for manufacture of sanitary pads,napkins and tampons.

◆ Basic custom duty of 5% (reduced from 7.5%)on super absorbent polymer for manufacture ofsanitary pads, napkins and tampons.

◆ Rate of Service Tax increased to 15% (from14.5%) due to levy of Krishi Kalyan Cess on alltaxable services at 0.5% with effect from 1st June,2016.

◆ Clean Energy Cess on coal increased to Rs.400per ton (from Rs.200 per ton).

◆ New initiative for job creation - Government topay 8.33% of EPF amount for three years forincremental employees, who are on rolls of com-pany.

◆ Deduction of 30% of additional wages paid tonew regular workmen under Section 80 JJ AA.

◆ Accelerated depreciation, wherever provided un-der the Act will be limited to maximum 40%with effect from 1st April, 2017.

◆ Deduction for Research & Development to belimited to 150% from 1st April, 2017 and 100%from 1st April, 2020 (200% up to 31st March,2017).

Outlay for Ministry of Textiles of Rs.3350 crore, in-cluding Rs.1480 crore for Amended TechnologyUpgradation Fund Scheme.

(b) State: Shri Jayant Malaiya, Finance Minister, pre-sented Budget Proposals in the State Assemblyoin 26th February, 2016, which included :-

◆ Assesses depositing Rs.6.25 crore quarterly orRs.25 crore annually have to deposit payable taxby 6thday of the following month instead 10th.

◆ Delay in payment of tax beyond three monthswill attract penal interest @ 2% p.m. instead of1.5%.

◆ Form-49 will be applicable for all Schedule-IIgoods brought in the State.

Programme was ended with National Anthem and thenit was followed by High Tea.

UNIT ACTIVITY

JTA : An effective marketing tool forstrengthening business promotion


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The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit orga-nized Conference on "Innovations @ ITMA 2015,Milan" on Friday, 12th February 2016 at HotelTheLalit, Mumbai. The Conference received over-whelming response.

Dr. Kavita Gupta, Textile Commissionerlighting the lamp.

Mr. C. Bose, President, TAI, Mumbai Unit welcomedthe Chief Guest, Dr. Kavita Gupta, IAS, Textile Com-missioner, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India andGuestof HonourMr. AniruddhaDeshmukh, Managing Direc-tor & CEO, Mafatlal Industries Ltd. He also welcomedall the Speakers, Invitees & Delegate to the confer-ence.

Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman, TAI, Mumbai Unit andConvener of the Conference gave the highlights of theevent. Mr. Gupte said that ITMA is the biggest globalmarket place and one-stop sourcing platform for emerg-ing trends and innovation solutions.

It covers the whole production chain from spinning,weaving, non-wovens, knitting right through to finish-ing. In addition to machinery, ITMA 2015 covereddyes/pigment manufacturers as well. ITMA 2015 coin-cided with the dates of the Diwali Festival and hencemany people were not able to visit this mega event.The TAI, Mumbai Unit immediately thought of thisand invited dignitaries those who attended ITMA 2015to give the first hand information about the latest de-velopments in international market. TAI Mumbai hasmade all attempts to give the glimpse of ITMA Exhi-

TAI - Mumbai Unitbition to the delegates. As a Convener of the Confer-ence, he thanked all the speakers, sponsors, advertis-ers and delegates for their kind support to make thisconference a great success.TAI Mumbai has made allattempts to give the glimpse of ITMA Exhibition tothe delegates.

Mr. AniruddhaDeshmukh, addressing the gathering

As a Convener of the Conference, he thanked all thespeakers, sponsors, advertisers and delegates for theirkind support to make this conference a great success.

Mr. AniruddhaDeshmukh, Managing Director & CEO,Mafatlal Industries Ltd. was the Guest of Honour forthe conference. While addressing the gathering he saidthat ITMA was certainly a big extravaganza and thetechnicians were befitted from the innovations dis-played at the Show. Mr. Deshmukh said that a cus-tomer is a priority and we have to see that how we canreach this customer in the best possible way.Dr.Kavita Gupta, IAS, Textile Commissioner, Minis-try of Textiles, Govt. of India was the Chief Guest ofthe conference. In her inaugural address she said thatthe textile machinery is a base of textile industry andthey produce variety of products for the use of cus-tomers.

Dr.Kavita Gupta, delivering inaugural address

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She further added that as a woman she is also a con-sumer of this fancy world. The Technology, the ma-chines are changing in a very fast way and hence totackle this situation all of us should take necessaryurgent measures. The product share was 45 to 50%nearly 200 years back and presently it is about 5.8%.She appealed to all delegates to come together andtake the product share to at least 20-30% of the globalshare. To achieve such share, the technology andmachines would be extremely critical and crucial. Shethen made a short presentation on "Overview of Tex-tile Industry" which was very informative.

In all, there were 6 technical papers presented duringthe Conference.

Mr. JorgMachholz, Product Application Technologist,Fongs Europe GmbH spoke on "Goller - Cold PadBatch".

Mr. Matthias Wulbeck, Area sales manager, Mahlo,Germany.

Mr. Updeep Singh, Managing Director, Itema Weav-ing (India) Pvt. Ltd.

Mr. Elliyas Mohammad, Business Development Man-ager, (Disperse Dyes), Colourtex Industries Pvt. Ltd.presented the paper on "Sustainable Innovation".

Mr. Manash Kumar Dey, Voltas Limited expressed hisviews on "Thies Dyeing Machines".

Mr. Vinod Kumar V., Sales Manager, Voltas Limitedmade the presentation on "Reggiani Digital Printing".

L to R : R. Sai Ganesh, Tapas Nandi,Dr. A. N. Desai, Dr. Sanjiv Kamat, Dilip Gianchandani,

Nitin Bavkar & Anand Jaiswal,

The last session began with Panel Discussion, whichwas moderated byDr. SanjivKamat, Vice President,Kothari Info-Tech Limited. The Panel Discussion drewmuch more attraction and enthusiasm during the con-ference. There was substantial presence of the partici-pants for this Session. The panel comprised Dr. A. N.Desai, Director, BTRA, Mr. Tapas Nandi, Country Head(India), Groz-Beckert Asia Pvt. Ltd., Mr.DilipGianchandani, Chief Operating Officer,Fibre2Fashion.com, Mr. NitinBavkar, Director, SmitinMarketing Pvt. Ltd., Mr. AnandJaiswal, Director, EuroTexmach Pvt. Ltd. and Mr. V. R. Sai Ganesh, GeneralManager-Marketing (National), Atul Ltd.

There was good interaction between participants, whoposed many questions to panel members and same wereanswered very promptly by the panel members. It wasa very interesting and memorable session.

Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, TAI, Mumbai Unitproposed a vote of the thanks. The Conference was agrand success and was attended by 275 participants.

Dr. Kavita Gupta releasing the Conference Souvenir

View of Audience

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Seminar on "Shape India -Shape Textile, Energy Saved -Money Earned"The Textile Association (India) - Madhya ParadeshUnit jointly with Copper Association & Spinner Cluborganizes a Seminar on "Shape India - Shape Textile,Energy Saved - Money Earned" on 05th December,2016 at Hotel Shiv Palace, Mandideep, Bhopal.

Seminar inaugurated with Deep Prajalan by ChiefGuest, Shri S. Pal, (Director, Vardhman), other digni-taries Guest of Honor Mr. S.K. Bhatt (Head of NaharSpinning Mills, Mandideep), Mr. M.S Saini (Head ofOswal Denim Pillukhedi), Shri N.S Nirban (Directorof Texpert) & Shri Kailash Agrawal (PresidentM.PACPT) were on the dais. The Program was con-ducted by Mr. Ankit Veda (Vice President SpinnersClub).TAI Secretary Mr. Ashok Veda gave welcomespeech, He explained the activity of the associationand said that Mr. S. K. Bhatt is a young & dynamicPersonality and has taken Nahar Spinning Mills onNew Height.

Mr. Ashok Veda said in respect of Mr. N.S. Nirbanthat, "khandar btate hai imarat kitni majboot thi"Chief Guest Mr. S. Pal was awarded with Life TimeAchievement award by TAI M.P., since Mr. Pal changedthe scenario of textile industry.

Mr. K.N. Hemanth Kumar gave Technical presenta-tion.TAI awarded Mr. S.K Bhatt by giving a position of"Head of Bhopal Chapter" in M.P. Mr. H. M. Tripathi

gave a success mantra "Power Saved Money Earned".In the end of the seminar he gives detail informationabout exhibition done in Italy.

During the "Question & Answer" rounds in the semi-nar, the issues of power saving was discussed.Mr. N.S. Nirban made the seminar more interesting bysinging old songs.

The seminar was attended by around 100 people. Dif-ferent Electricians explains how to save energy.In the End of seminar there was arrangement of Din-ner.

These are some of the dignities present in the seminar

Mr. Meghraj Chouhan, Mr. Deepak Chopra & Team(Hind Syntex LTD).Mr. L. R Nishad, Mr. S.K Chopra & Team (AnantSpinning)Mr. Sapan Shah& Team (DFOS Marketing)Mr. Kaushal Garg, (vardhman Bhopal)Mr. Jimmy Gupta & Team (Grundfos Pumps)Mr. N. Malviya, Mr. Rajkumar Haran, Mr. TarunLakshkar, Mr. Arun Verma & Team (Bhaskar Denim)Mr. Rajesh Ku. Singh& TeamMr. B.B Bhatia, Mr. G.M Mishra, Mr. M.G Choudhary& Team (Nahar Spinning Mills)Mr. M.G Choudhary & Team (Oswal Denim)Mr. Yashpal Kanogiya(Shanti Gears)Mr. V.K Soni, Sunil Yadav& Team (NBT Textile)Mr. Kailash Agrawal(M.PACPT)Mr. Sunil Mittal& Team (Moenus Textile PVT. LTD)

International Copper Association India was a chiefsponsor and TAI M.P. Unit & Spinner Club were theCo-sponsor for this event.

Technical Summarization was made by Shri H.MTripathi (Head of spinning Vardhman Fabric).

The seminar ended with National Anthem.

TAI - Madhya Pradesh Unit

Texttreasure

Holding anger is a poison. It eats you from in-side. We think that hating is a weapon that at-tacks the person who harmed us. But hatred is acurved blade. And the harms we do, we do toourselves.

-Mitch Albom

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TAI Hinganghat team visitsKTTM Bangalore Factory

The Textile Association (India) - HinganghatUnitmembers along with Mr. A.K. Barik, President,Mr. S.K. Thokar, Hon. Secretary and the technicalrepresentatives of Gimatex Industries Ltd. visitedKTTM factory at Bangalore in order to understandtheir manufacturing process, quality monitoring &management system & other process management sys-tem.

At the outset, we would like to extend our gratitude tocompany for permission and support they gave to makeour visit a success with accomplishment of objectiveand Sri Subramanya Jade - AVP textile operations ofKTTM for arranging this visit for us & entire team ofKTTM who accompany us for the entire day on avisit.

We are also thankful to Sri MasafumiKunito, Manag-ing Director of KTTM for spending his valuable timewith us.

It was great to know that company follows Japaneseprincipal of equality among all the level of employeesbecause of which they have same dress code and samecanteen right from higher level managerial team tolower level workers. We found even canteen employ-ees in same dress.

It was also nice to note that employee strictly flow

YOSH system, which suggest to look first to left, thento right &then frontalways pointing his fore fingerbefore crossing the road. We see every employee wasjudiciously following the rules even inside the factoryshed when there was no traffic around. It was uniqueto note that they have complete separate track calledas Walk Way for pedestrian in the entire manufactur-ing& outside road area inside the shed.

Their production process, system & scheduling wereunique. They follow 4 S business managementsystemswith an aim toimprove productivity, efficiency,service & safety& Kaizen principlein order to ensurecontinual improvement. It was nice to see the latesttechnological updated machine in operation &observethe process of finishing moulds, preparing various partsof the machine from sheet metal & their finishing,complete assembling line in detail. The storing of spareparts & their issue plays very vital parts in assemblingline which they explained to us in details.

It has also been informed to us during discussion thatthey follow one distinctive system called Zen in &Zen ka, every Saturday for half an hour in each shiftwhere everybody from top level employee to bottomlevel workmen will join & remove unwanted materi-als, unused paper etc from their work places in orderto keep clean at their places & its surrounding &maintain proper house keep. Cleanliness of office &factory premises was found absolutely superb becauseof the nice system practiced by them.

Mr. A.K. Barik, President of TAI Unit & President ofGimatex Industries Ltd. highly appreciated for theirproduction process, system, safety precaution, hardwork of every staff members, excellent house-keepingetc. He mentioned that this visit was indeed a learningexperience & remains memorable to all of us.

TAI - Hinganghat Unit

UNIT ACTIVITY


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Celebration of Republic DayThe Textile Association (India) - Madhya Pradesh Unitorganized Indian's Republic Day jointly with Spinner Clubat Hotel South Avenue, Indore on 25th January, 2016.

TAI Madhya Pradesh Unit is very active and organizingseveral seminars, Conferences along with social activi-ties. This is one of the bigger unit having more than1600 members.

Mr. Ashok Veda welcoming the gatheringThe Function was organized for the celebration of Re-

public Day. Many Invitees and Office Bearers attendedthe function. The function is fully based on NationalTheme. In the Starting of the function Mr. Ashok Veda,Hon. Secretary, TAI M.P. Unit gave welcome speech inthe presence of gathering. Important discussion on ITMA,Milan Exhibition was held in the beginning of the func-tion and general discussion on TAI activities.

A very superb musical program was also organized bySpinner Club.

At the end function was followed by networking dinnerand with singing of national songs and old songs by themembers.

TAI - Madhya Pradesh Unit

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA)(an ISO 9001:2008 certified association)

Membership FeesSr. No. Type of Membership One Time* Fee1. Corporate Member INR 15,0002. Patron Member INR 3,2003. Life Time Member INR 2,1004. Overseas Member USD 1005. Life Time to Patron Member INR 1,300

* Plus add 14.50 % Service Tax

www.textileassociationindia.org/membership/application-formor contact respective TAI Unit

For more details contactThe Textile Association (India)

2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Near Nirmal Nursing Home, 91, Ranade Road Extension,Shivaji Park, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 India

Tel.: +91-22-24461145, Fax: +91-22-24474971E-mail : [email protected]

Website : www.textileassociationindia.org

UNIT ACTIVITY


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Mr. Subhash Bhargava, Managing Director, Colorantdiscussing about Colron Reactive Dyes

Mr. Roy Stones, Global Marketing Director, Color Rootintroducing intermediates range to foreign delegates.

Mr. Subhash Bhargava, Managing Director, Coloranthaving an extensive discussion with Indian customers.

Leading Reactive Dyes Manufacturer and Exporter,Colorant had jointly participated with Color Root,China in Interdye Asia Exhibition, 2015 held on 3rd to5th Dec, 2015 at Ahmedabad organized by ShanghaiInternational Exhibition Company Ltd. About 200 dyesand auxiliary companies participated as exhibitormainly from China and India. Among the visitor mainlyincluded technical heads of various companies, tech-nocrats, dyestuff manufacturers and process houseowners from various countries.

Mr. Roy Stones, Global Marketing Director, Color Rootand Mr. Leo Wang, General Manager, Color Root waspresent along with Colorant Team headed by Mr.Subhash Bhargava and Dr. N.N. Mahapatra, to pro-mote their intermediates and reactive dyes. Color Rootoffered their extensive range of reactive dye interme-diates to the prospective customers and had a fruitfuldiscussion with visitors. Color Root, China andColorant introduced about their high list fastness Fluo-rine based reactive dyes for high end customers. Thevisitors deeply discussed about the range of innovativereactive dyes with the Colorant Team.

Colron High Performance Reactive dyes like SD se-ries, GLX series, CN series and SF series are alreadybeing used by more than 650 customers (includingCorporate Houses) in India and well accepted inBangladesh, China, Turkey, Pakistan, Iran, Egypt, CostaRica, Brazil, Nigeria, Gautemala etc. to name a few,for its quality, cost-effectiveness and timely supply.

For more details, please contact:Colorant3225,Phase IVG.I.D.C., Vatva,Ahmedabad - 382445Ph:-079-65104801/02E-Mail:- [email protected]:- www.colorantindia.com

Colorant- Color Root Participates inInterdye Asia Exhibition, 2015

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WANTEDWe are Manufacture Exporter of Textile Spinning Machine parts in Western Suburb of

Mumbai & we urgently need Senior Sales Staff for marketing our product in India as wellas abroad.

Contact : Email : [email protected]


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This year's ITMA in Milan was for the German textilemachinery producer BRÜCKNER in every respect acomplete success. The new corporate design under-lined perfectly the guiding idea of the exhibition toprovide for more sustainability in the production pro-cesses of the textile value-added chain. The great num-ber of visitors and the quality of the discussions ex-ceeded by far the expectations. The throughout posi-tive feedback for our participation and mainly for theexhibited innovations was for the completeBRÜCKNER team a confirmation for their work.Many projects have been discussed on the fair in de-tail and technological solutions have been preparedtogether with the customers. During the eight days inMilan, BRÜCKNER closed deals in the double-digitmillion ranges. The variety of the projects is very pleas-ing: Machines for finishing of woven and knitted fab-rics, coating lines for technical textiles and lines forthe carpet industry. BRÜCKNER could score in allfields due to new technologies and competent advi-sory service. And there was a great interest for spareparts and the modernization of existing lines.

There was a great interest on the fair for sustainableand energy-saving products. BRÜCKNER offered be-side the new and efficient stenter concept POWER-FRAME ECOLINE mainly innovations in the field ofcoating technology. They presented the new applica-tion unit ECO-COAT which has been developed par-ticularly for minimum applications. This unit allowsimpregnations as well as applications on one and onboth sides of the fabric. The minimum applicationquantities require in the following drying processesclearly less water evaporation which has a positiveeffect on the energy requirement at the respective dryer.

There was a great interest on the fair for sustainableand energy-saving products. BRÜCKNER offered be-side the new and efficient stenter concept POWER-FRAME ECOLINE mainly innovations in the field ofcoating technology. They presented the new applica-tion unit ECO-COAT which has been developed par-ticularly for minimum applications. This unit allowsimpregnations as well as applications on one and onboth sides of the fabric. The minimum applicationquantities require in the following drying processesclearly less water evaporation which has a positiveeffect on the energy requirement at the respective dryer.

Also the new software tool ECO-MATIC has beenexcellently received by the customers. It supports theuser and helps to question and check again and againthe ongoing processes. The tool leads to a more effi-cient handling of the machine and the resources. Theresult of the optimizations shows in a significant sav-ing of resources and cost. This software functions notonly in new machines and leads to a clearly betterunderstanding of the relation between machine tech-nologies and finishing process by the users.

"Our customers have a true interest in sustainableproducts and know by now the benefits of life cycleconsiderations. In most cases the investment in high-quality machines turns out to be profitable because theconsumption of energy and spare parts as well as themaintenance over the lifetime of the product are clearlylower. The positive feedback by our customers showsthe success of our product development in sustainable,efficient and reliable machines. We will consequentlyfollow this way also in future." explains ReginaBRÜCKNER, owner and CEO of the BRÜCKNERgroup. "Thus we bank also in future on Germany withits skilled labour as a location for industry. We ensurethereby that our lines "made in Germany" satisfy thehigh expectances of our customers regarding qualityand efficiency."

BRÜCKNER celebratesthe most successful ITMA ever

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Texttreasure

"Though no one can go back and make abrand new start, anyone can start from nowand make a brand new ending."

- Carl Bard


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Victory Spinning Mills of Veppadai near Erode inSouth India has ordered nine more Autoconer 6ma-chines. A long-standing customer of Schlafhorst, thecompany is one of the spinning mills thathave beenusing the new Autoconer 6 since the beginning ofthis year. The automatic packagewinder has gener-ated such enthusiasm among the decision-makersin the expanding sales spinningmill that they haveonce again opted for the world's most modernautomatic winding machine for thelatest expansionstage.

Specialist in viscose yarns

The company, which was established in 2003, employs850 workers and has specialised in the productionofhigh-quality viscose yarns for weaving and knitting.30 % of the yarns produced are processed inthecompany's own weaving mill. The spinning millmanufactures 13,000 tonnes of ring yarn per year bothin theform of single (Ne 20 to Ne 40) and plied (Ne20/2 to Ne 40/2) yarns.

These have been sold mainly in Indiato date, but nowVictory Spinning Mills wants to gain a foothold in thelucrative export market, and so it hasenlarged its ringspinning mill by 12,000 spindles to over 60,000spindles in all. When it came to making thenecessaryadjustments to the winding capacity, the decision wasa swift one: we'll buy Autoconer 6machines once again!A new linked system is now being constructed from 9ring spinning machines and 9Autoconer 6 type V wind-ing machines with 34 winding units each, and thissystem is fully automated.

Always the latest, most efficient technology"We're an expanding company with a clear strategy.We are updating our stock of machinery constantly,sothat we always produce yarn using the latest, most

efficient technology," says spinning mill director Mr.BalachandarThanavelu. "This is why we choose theAutoconer for our winding mill." Hitherto 14AutoconerX5 type RM machines with 70 winding unitshave supplied high-quality packages. At the start ofthe year,Schlafhorst delivered the first three Autoconer6 type RM machines, also with 70 winding units."Followinginstallation, it proved to be the case thatthe new automatic package winder is 6 % more pro-ductive than itspredecessor as well as using 8 % lessenergy," says co-director Mr. P.S. Sundaram. "Such anoutput isunsurpassed, and so we decided to use theAutoconer 6 in the new, automatic linked system also.We wantthe best and most innovative engineering soas to be flexibly equipped to handle all process se-quences andrequirements."

Innovation for greater productivity and a reducedlabour requirementThe innovations on the Autoconer 6 are impressive.The highlights are as follows: the new suctiontube,which works with SmartCycle and the intelligentvacuum control system to increase productivityandconserve resources at the same time; a reduction inred light events, additional and repeat cycles;reductionin the vacuum from 35 to 25 hPa; and notice-able compressed air savings with the new MultiJet."Fewerunproductive cycle and waiting times, virtuallyno malfunctions, lower energy consumption, high-speedproductivity and the best packages far and wide- we are satisfied on all counts," says factory managerMr. Paramasivam. "We are no less excited about thenew feed principle on the Autoconer 6 typeRMmachine. Itspeeds up bobbin changing and the ma-chine stays cleaner. As a result we can deploy thesame number ofstaff to look after the Autoconer 6with its 70 winding units as for other package winderswith only 60 windingunits".

Best quality for the global marketThere are two key reasons why the company has nowdecided in favour of an automatic linked system. Ontheone hand, the labour market in the dynamic textileregion of Erode and Pallipalayam is muchstretched.

On the other hand, Victory Spinning Mills is keen toreduce manual material handling as a whole so astoachieve an even higher quality for export.

Autoconer 6 - Follow-up orderVictory Spinning Mills

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"Packages from the Autoconer 6 are the quality bench-mark acrossthe globe," says Mr.Balachandar. "We arenow ready for the global market.TogetherwithSchlafhorst'sCustomer Service, which is able tosupport us with its textile-technological know-how inthe face of allchallenges, we will be successful in imple-menting our new export strategy".

For more details, please contact,Heike ScheibeExpert Communication Winding

SchlafhorstZweigniederlassung derSaurer Germany GmbH & Co. KGCarlstrasse 6052531 Übach-PalenbergGermanyT + 49 2451 905 [email protected]

◆ FABJET GRAND uses Pigment ink entailingwater savings

◆ FABJET GRAND suitable for home furnishingsegment

◆ VASTRAJET offers production speeds of 4,000metres per day

The Indian textile industry as we know it is changingrapidly. The demand for digitally printed fabric is grow-ing and the focus on environmental awareness increas-ing. The recent "Swachh Bharat Abhiyan" initiative byGovernment of India has also added in a big way to-wards ecological sustainability.

Environment Sustainability through Greener printingTraditionally, printing through all other inks or whetherthrough screen or digital, a square metre of fabricconsumes approximately 100 litres of water till finish-ing.

Major pollutants in wastewater are highly suspended

solids, chemical oxygen demand, acidity etc. This waterif not being treated becomes waste and pollutes theenvironment.

This is why we know that it is time for an innovativechange in the way industry print on textiles. Challeng-ing the industry status quo is COLORJET's goal byway of introducing a groundbreaking eco-friendly digi-tal textile printing machine using water based pigmentinks at GTE 2016, being held in New Delhi, India inHall E, Stall E-5.

COLORJET-FABJET GRAND

FABJET GRAND is a commercial grade 3.2 metersor 126 inch wide digital textile printer and uses waterbased pigment ink. The FABJET GRAND is suitablefor the customized home furnishing textile segment,particularly for producers of home décor products likecurtains, bed covers and sofa covers, which are di-rectly printed on cotton and polyester-based fabrics.

The printer delivers high productivity enabling highdaily printing volumes and outstanding runnability forovernight printing without bending and color deflec-tion.

Advantages-FABJET GRAND

Advantages of the eco-friendly FABJET GRAND aremanifold, which include;

◆ Suitable for all types of fabric, whether natural,synthetic or blends.

◆ Printing using Pigment Inks eliminating the need

COLORJET Introduces Eco FriendlyDigital Textile Printer at GTE 2016

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for any additional process such as pretreatment/coating, steaming and washing steps thus elimi-nating energy and water consuming steps.

◆ The time required for finishing apparently be-comes negligible since no post process after print-ing is required thus time to market get shortens.

◆ Centralisation of printing sites, close to fashiondistrict or to customers

◆ FABJET GRAND is an investment which createsthe economies of scale since no other process isinvolved and the printing can be done directly onthe fabric.

Alongside, COLORJET India will also be showcasingits bestselling VASTRAJET; a commercial grade entrylevel digital textile printer offering production speedsof 4,000 meters per day and thereby meets the normaldaily requirements of a textile printing house, whilebeing suitable for natural as well as polyester basedfabrics like georgette, moss crepe, weightless, chiffon,etc.

The high speed is achieved through specially designedjetting controls to optimize printheads performance, tomatch the high jetting frequency, the mechanical struc-ture is excellently designed to handle high speed pro-duction and precise dot placements, while the new

bundled software offers up to 20 percent on cost sav-ing in inks, thus providing a lower cost of production.

"Apart from the price being very competitive, sinceour digital textile printers are manufactured at a state-of-the-art manufacturing facility in India itself, buyersof our machines are eligible for various subsidies andbenefits offered by the Government of India underEPCG & TUF schemes," Mr. Smarth Bansal, BrandManager at COLORJET said.

For more information Contact:PR Contacts:Arun RaoFounderTaurus CommunicationsAhmedabad, IndiaCell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938Email: [email protected] BansalBrand ManagerColorJet GroupNoida, IndiaCell: +91 98102-39602Email: [email protected]

NEWS

CREALET will participate at the thirteenth edition ofNorth America's only dedicated show fortechnical tex-tiles and nonwovens held May 3-5, 2016, at the Geor-gia World Congress Center inAtlanta, Georgia.

CREALET, the world's leading manufacturer of elec-tronically controlled warp feed systems, willberepresented at the booth of SYMETCH. We would

be delighted to discuss your particular applicationindetail and work together to find solutions with con-vincing results. With our experience you willfind theperfect partner for your specific requirements.

The following link will direct you to attendee registra-tion where you will receive complimentary admission- www.techtextilNA.com/VIP. Offer valid through May2, 2016.

About CREALET AGCREALET, Switzerland, was founded in 2003, withthe aim of developing electronically controlledwarpfeed systems for weaving machines. The company hasestablished itself as a market leader inthis area; thisfact has led to an impressive product range that isprecisely oriented to therequirements of customers andthe high demands of the market.

Meet CREALET atthe 13th Techtextil North America in Atlanta

Visit us in Hall B3A, Booth 1917, May,3-5 2016

Visit us in Hall B3A, Booth 1917


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Ms. Seema Srivastava, Executive Director, Mr. SanivLathia, Chairman & Mr. Shekhar Shindhankar, joint

Director receiving Award.

India ITME Society was nominated and qualified forthe award under "Royal Show Category". The awardwas constituted by Exhibition Showcase, supported byGovernment of India Ministry of Skill Development &Entrepreneurship, National Skill Development Corpo-ration (N.S.D.C.), IndianExhibitions Conferences &Events Services Association (IESA), Indian ExhibitionIndustry Association (IEIA), Indian Industries Asso-ciation (IIA) & hosted by India Expo Mart, Noida.

India ITME Society was shortlisted out of the 7 nomi-nations. The award function was held on 23rd Janu-ary 2016 at India Expo Mart, Greater Noida.

Ms. Seema Srivastava, Executive Director, Mr. Saniv Lathia,Chairman & Mr. Shekhar Shindhankar, joint Director

Apart from the above award won by India ITME So-ciety, Ms. Seema Srivastava, Executive Director alsohas won an individual award under the "Leading La-dies of Industry" Category.

Both the awards are matter of pride and achievementfor the India ITME Staff and the members of our in-dustry. This award function is expected to telecast on13th & 14th February 2016 at 3.00 pm. on BloombergNews channel.

India ITME Society is now gearing up for the 10thIndia ITME a mega Event to be held in Mumbai from3rd - 8th December 2016 at Bombay Convention &Exhibition Center.

Another service offered by India ITME Society is an24 x 7 online networking platform IIN Zone http://iinzone.india-itme.comwhere companies can register forpromotion & lead generation worldwide.

Completing 37 years of service, India ITME Societyhas also launched Global Textile Technology & Engi-neering Show (GTTES) to be held alternatively withIndia ITME series. GTTES is to be region specificand sector specific business platform focused on cus-tomized business solution. The 1st edition of GTTESwas held on 20-22nd January 2015 in Mumbai withWeaving, Fiber & Yarn sector & Waste Water Tech-nology customized of textile industry as focused sec-tor.

The chairman and the steering committee members ofIndia ITME Society express sincere thanks to all themembers and associates for their unstinted support andpledges continued quality services to the industry.

India ITME Society qualified for the awardunder "Royal Show Category"

NEWS

Connecting you with rightaudience for strengthening

business promotionwww.textileassociationindia.org


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The latest USTER®QUALITY UNIVERSITY pro-vides expert insights on growth and sustainability

Panel discussion panorama

The shared experience of top textile executives, a glo-bal-scale retail group and the leading provider of tex-tile quality management technology gave a uniqueinsight into the Indian textile industry. Market fore-casts, valuable business intelligence and a realisticanalysis of problems and solutions combined to drawup a 'Roadmap for the Future' for India's spinning mills,at a special event organised by Uster Technologies.Adaptability, attention to quality issues, value addedproduct mix, sustainable manufacturing and focusingon consumer demands were the key recommendationsfrom a forum of experts.

India's textile industry is already huge, and still grow-ing, with 50 million spindles installed. And the gov-ernment has set an ambitious target to boost its shareof global textile trade from 5% to 20%. Is that a real-istic target? How are Indian spinning mills performingtoday, and what changes are they making in their questfor extra business?

At the third USTER®QUALITY UNIVERSITY heldin Goa recently, a group of influential figures discussedthese issues and set out a clear vision for present andfuture expansion. Under the leadership of V.R.Rathnam, Head Uster Technologies India, the expertpanel delivered a practical and authoritative analysis,revealing some often surprising and challenging re-quirements for successful yarn production. The panelcomprised: S.K. Khandelia, President, Sutlej Group;Calvin Woolley, Global Supplier Development Leader,Ikea; Iris Biermann, Head of Textile Technology, UsterTechnologies; and David McAlister, Product ManagerFiber Testing, Uster Technologies.

The event attracted 25 high-level participants, includ-ing directors and promoters of 25 mills from all overIndia. The theme of the event, from February 5 to 7,was 'Roadmap to the future of the spinning industry inIndia'.

Leading industry professional Mr.Khandelia provideda telling and hard-hitting account of the key issues andoptions for Indian spinners today. His experience asthe head of a group of four mills producing 300 tonnesof yarn per day is significant, and he first outlined theproblems mills face in adapting to new market trends.This was often restricted, he said, by the existing plantdesign and set-up, which prevented innovations thatdid not fit with the mill's capabilities. However, dra-matic solutions could be found, as when, early in hiscareer, he rescued a 200,000-spindle mill earmarkedfor closure by initiating product diversification instead.

Focusing on exceptions, benchmarking and ROIMr. Khandelia emphasized the need for focus in man-aging the business - for example, he now works withonly one daily report, compared to numerous docu-ments and papers in the past. He also concentratesonly on deviations from the norm in mill production,rather than checking and analyzing 'good' results: "Ifwe can handle the exceptions, it is enough," he said,"but we also know that benchmarking against interna-tional standards and best practices is a must, to differ-entiate our company from competitors."

Ensuring an adequate return on investment was alsoessential, Mr. Khandelia said, and here he revealed hiscompany's requirement to earn at least 20% ROI -since 11% would be swallowed up by interest. "Youcan survive one to two years with a loss but not more,"he said.

One strategy to cope with instability in raw cottonprices had been to switch towards blends, fancy yarnsand mélange yarn to minimize the risk and to comple-ment India's acknowledged strength in cotton againstcompetition from China and Pakistan by creating asustainable product mix.

Ikea predicts Indian growth, focus on blends andsustainabilityIkea is the world's largest furniture retailer, with astrong commitment to cotton and a policy of working

Mapping future success for India's spinners

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closely along the entire production chain. At theUSTER®QUALITY UNIVERSITY, its representativeCalvin Woolley forecast that India - recently overtakenChina as the world's largest cotton producer - has thepotential to be the leader in cotton yarn productiontoo. For Ikea, spinning is one of the key points in thevalue chain, Mr. Woolley said, but when the cottonprice exploded 2011 they had to look for alternatives- especially blends, to which the market thankfullyresponded more readily than in the past. For the samereason, air-jet and open-end spinning are taking a big-ger share of production from ring spinning.

Ikea has been sourcing in India for almost 30 yearsand despite many challenges the company developedsuppliers in sustainable compliance what Ikea calls itsIWAY. Many Indian mills today also suffer from unre-liable energy sources, something which is vital for thevalue chain in yarn production. Ikea is keen to pushrenewable energy sources, and reduce dependence oncoal. Said Mr Woolley: "Zero coal demand will come.Not now but it will come, and those spinners who arethe last to move to renewable energy will be left be-hind."

Textiles is only part of the Ikea product offering, butit is a vital element in which quality ranks alongsidevalue and price. Said Mr. Woolley: "Affordability iswhat counts. But if there is a quality mismatch withone product, the customer will lose trust in all ourproducts, not only in textiles."

Consumers, not salespeople, drive the quality mes-sageDavid McAlister, of Uster Technologies, pointed outthat mills were now having to operate in a consumer-led marketplace, rather than merely offering up anexisting product range to their customers in spinningand weaving. "Consumers now define the type of prod-ucts they like and the performance they need," he said.

"It is not possible for a spinning mill to switch over-night from one fiber type to another, but China, forexample, had an issue in staying competitive withcotton, so they moved towards synthetics and man-made fibers."

In some cases, spinning mills needed to be more awareof the implications of using different yarn technolo-gies and other fiber types, said USTER's Iris Biermann.It is important to design a yarn according to the end-product requirements, not forgetting vital parameterssuch as pilling behavior, she said. "Too often, know-how is restricted to mill production personnel, so salesefforts are focused heavily on price, price, price -followed by raw material and yarn count. Only thendo quality parameters come under discussion."

The high-level panel dialogue was part of the three-day USTER®QUALITY UNIVERSITY, which alsofeatured a series of workshops and presentations, tar-geted at improving the knowledge, performanceandfuture prosperity of the sector in today's increasinglydemanding and competitive markets. "In the course ofthe event, it became clear that key people from leadingIndian spinning mills are well-equipped to keep tex-tiles in India as a growing industry, with special im-portance attached to sustainable products and profits,"said V.R. Rathnam, Head Uster Technologies India.

For more details, please contact,Edith AepliSenior Manager Marketing & CommunicationUster Technologies AGSonnenbergstrasse 10CH - 8610 Uster / SwitzerlandDirect+41 43 366 38 80Mobile +41 79 916 02 91Fax+41 43 366 39 [email protected]

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www.textileassociationindia.org

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Presentation of innovations by all three Rieter busi-ness groups; implementation of STEP UP improve-ment program; details on outlook for 2015

During the "investors' day" at the ITMA in Milan,Rieter described the progress made in focusing on thestrategic priorities. These are concerned with the en-hancement of innovativeness, the expansion of ser-vices and the increase in the profitability of the group.For the purpose of achieving the mid-term targets, theSTEP UP improvement program announced in Octo-ber last year is being implemented.

InnovationsThe Machines & Systems business group displayedthe new E 36 / E 86 combing set, which offers asignificant increase in productivity. The enlarged R 66rotor spinning machine with improved S 66 spin boxand the optimized air-jet spinning machine with thePolyester option P 26 was also presented. The extendedSPIDERweb Mill Control System was another high-light; this represents the first step towards using the"Internet of Things" for optimizing the spinning mill.The business group Components presented componentssuch as the EliteAdvanced compacting system, the newX-Comb and the LENA high speed spindle, whichallow spinning mills to gain a technological advantageand, as a result, achieve higher profitability.

ServicesFor the first time the business group After Sales pre-sented its own service and product range. The goalwas to enable Rieter customers to make optimal use ofthe spinning mill over the entire lifecycle. The busi-ness development dynamics indicate market acceptanceof this range. Consequently the business group is aim-ing to grow by more than 30% overall in the nextthree years, based on sales amounting to 127.5 millionCHF in 2014.

ProfitabilityRieter has been consistently implementing the STEPUP program (drawn up in October 2014) for the pur-pose of achieving its mid-term targets, i.e. an opera-tive profitability (EBIT margin) of 10% in conjunctionwith a return on net assets (RONA) of 14%.

Details on outlookWhile the order intake trend for both business groupsComponents and After Sales is pleasing, the marketfor new machinery at the business group Machines &Systems is at a low level. This trend is due to spinningmills' low margins as well as uncertainty in the indi-vidual sales markets.Owing to the positive dynamics in the business groupsComponents and After Sales and a scheduled orderbook delivery in the business group Machines & Sys-tems, Rieter is expecting for the whole of 2015 salesof around 1 billion CHF, operative profitability (EBIT)around 7 percent and a net profit of between 4 and 5percent of sales.

Presentation materialsA complete set of presentation materials is availablewith this media release at www.rieter.com (http://www.rieter.com/en/rieter/media/press-releases/.)Please register at www.rieter.com if you wish to re-ceive our media releases regularly by e-mail.

Future dateso Publication of sales figures for the 2015 financialyear: January 29, 2016o Results press conference and presentation for finan-cial analysts on the 2015 annual results:March 15, 2016o Annual General Meeting 2016: April 6, 2016

For further information, please contact:Rieter Holding Ltd. - Investor RelationsJorisGröflinChief Financial OfficerT +41 52 208 70 15 I F +41 52 208 70 60E-mail: [email protected] I www.rieter.comRieter Management Ltd. - Media RelationsCornelia SchreierHead Corporate CommunicationsT +41 52 208 70 32 I F +41 52 208 70 60E-mail: [email protected] I www.rieter.com

Presentation of innovations by all threeRieter business groups

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"Every truth passes through three stages beforeit is recognized. In the first, it is ridiculed. Inthe second, it is opposed. In the third, it is re-garded as self evident."

- Arthur Schopenhauer


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Rieter's sales in 2015 amounted to CHF 1 036.8million (CHF 1 153.4 million in 2014); in compari-son to 2014, a significant increase in sales was re-corded at the Components and After Sales businessgroups, while sales were down at the Machines &Systems business group. Order intake totaled CHF801.6 million (CHF 1 146.1 million in 2014) andwas 6% higher in the second half of the year thanin the first six months owing to more positivemomentum in the latter period. At the end of 2015,Rieter's order backlog amounted to approximatelyCHF 470 million. Rieter is expecting EBIT of 7.0%and a net profit of 4.8% of sales for the year as awhole. The full annual financial statements and the2015 Annual Report will be published by Rieter onMarch 15, 2016.

Orders received and salesSince January 2015 Rieter with its three business groups- Machines & Systems, After Sales and Components -has intensified its focus on customers and their differ-ing needs throughout the lifecycle of the spinningmachines. This generates greater customer satisfactionand stronger customer loyalty. In this way, Rieter ex-tends its business with lower exposure to the cycle.This new approach met with a very positive responsefrom customers at the four-yearly ITMA global textilemachinery trade show in Milan.

The overall trend in demand in 2015 was character-ized by positive developments in the After Sales andComponents business groups and a cyclical reluctance

to invest in the Machines & Systems business. Fol-lowing a low point in the third quarter, demand in themachinery business recovered toward the end of theyear. Rieter's order intake was 6% higher in the sec-ond half of the year compared to the first half (CHF388.3 million in the first half of 2015, CHF 413.3million in the second half of 2015).

Order intake amounted to CHF 801.6 million in thepast financial year (CHF 1 146.1 million in 2014).Order intake at the Components business group in-creased to CHF 217.7 million, CHF 45.4 million(+26%) higher than in the previous year, thanks tostrong demand in the second half of 2015 in particular.The After Sales business group posted order intake ofCHF 126.3 million, the decline of CHF 14.2 million (-10%) compared to the prior year being mainly attrib-utable to the lower volume of orders for installationsin the new machinery business. Order intake at theMachines & Systems business group for 2015 as awhole amounted to CHF 457.6 million, 45% lowerthan in the previous year.

Rieter's annual sales for 2015 totaled CHF 1 036.8million (CHF 1 153.4 million in 2014). In comparisonto 2014, sales increased by CHF 22.3 million (+13%)and CHF 12.3 million (+10%) at the Components andAfter Sales business groups, respectively, while a de-cline of CHF 151.2 million (-18%) was recorded atthe Machines & Systems business group.

Adjusted for currency effects and the sale of the

2015 financial year: Significant increase in salesat After Sales and Components business groups

Positive trend in order intake in second half of year

CHF million (non-audited) 2015 2014 Change Change in Change withoutlocal currency divestments

Order intake 801.6 1 146.1 -30% -29% -28%

◆ Machines & Systems 457.6 833.3 -45% -45% -46%

◆ After Sales 126.3 140.5 -10% -8% -8%

◆ Components 217.7 172.3 26% 36% 36%

Sales 1 036.8 1 153.4 -10% -9% -8%

◆ Machines & Systems 702.3 853.5 -18% -18% -17%

◆ After Sales 139.8 127.5 10% 12% 12%

◆ Components 194.7 172.4 13% 21% 21%

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Schaltag Group, Rieter's sales and order intake figuresrespectively were 8% and 28% lower than for the prioryear

In 2015 Rieter again achieved the best sales results inAsian countries (without China, India and Turkey),with an increase of 19 percent compared to the prioryear. In contrast, however, the propensity to invest

profit of 4.8% of sales for the 2015 financial year.

Annual General Meeting of April 6, 2016The 2016 Annual General Meeting of Rieter HoldingLtd. will take place on April 6 at the Eulachhalle arenain Winterthur, Switzerland. Any proposals regardingthe agenda are to be submitted in writing to RieterHolding Ltd., Office of the Company Secretary,

CHF million (non-audited) 2015 2014 Change Change in Change withoutlocal currency divestments

Sales 1 036.8 1 153.4 -10% -9% -8%

◆Europe 60.2 81.9 -26% -23% -14%

◆ Asian countries1) 323.8 272.7 19% 21% 21%

◆ China 139.8 173.7 -20% -19% -19%

◆ India 142.0 130.9 9% 13% 13%

◆ Turkey 143.7 264.4 -46% -45% -45%

◆ America 200.6 199.5 1% -2% -2%

◆ Africa 26.7 30.3 -12% -11% -11%

declined in these countries in 2015.

The market situation in China has eased slightly as aresult of a government investment program beingimplemented in the province of Xinjiang. Salesamounted to CHF 139.8 million, 20% down on theprior year, while order intake was up on 2014 andabove the level of sales.

The Indian market was stable in 2015 and Rieter'ssales were 9% (13% in local currency) higher at CHF142.0 million. Order intake remained at the same levelas in the prior year.

In Turkey, Rieter's sales for the reporting year amountedto CHF 143.7 million. Order intake was at a very lowlevel, but the first signs of recovery were observedtoward the end of the year.

Sales of CHF 200.6 million in North and SouthAmerica in 2015 were at the same level as in thepreceding year. Order intake was lower than in 2014due to the more difficult economic situation in SouthAmerica and the completion of the major investmentprojects in the USA.

Sales in Africa of CHF 26.7 million were below theprevious year's level, while the reduced sales figure ofCHF 60.2 million in Europe was mainly attributableto the sale of the Schaltag Group.

Profit outlook for 2015Rieter is expecting an EBIT margin of 7.0% and a net

Klosterstrasse 32, CH-8406 Winterthur, Switzerland,by February 22, 2016 at the latest, accompanied byinformation concerning the relevant motions and evi-dence of the necessary shareholdings (with a par valueof CHF 0.5 million as stipulated by Article 699 of theSwiss Code of Obligations and §9 of the Articles ofAssociation).

The media release can be found at www.rieter.com/en/rieter/media/press-releases/. You can also register forour media release e-mail service at www.rieter.com.

A presentation regarding orders received and sales in2015 can be found at http://www.rieter.com/en/rieter/investor-relations/presentations/2016/.

Forthcoming dates◆ Results conference and presentation for analysts:

March 15, 2016◆ Annual General Meeting: April 6, 2016◆ Semi-annual report: July 21, 2016

For further information, please contact:Rieter Holding Ltd. Rieter Management Ltd.Investor Relations Media RelationsJorisGröflin Cornelia SchreierChief Financial Officer Head Corporate

CommunicationsT +41 52 208 70 15 T +41 52 208 70 32F +41 52 208 70 60 F +41 52 208 70 60E-mail : E-mail :[email protected] [email protected]

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Marcel RengelTechnical Head

SPIDERweb of the latest generation is the only millmanagement system that collects displays and analy-ses all relevant data from the spinning preparation toall 4 spinning systems as well as providing support.

Rapid identification of production deviations and timelyintervention increase the production and thus the eco-nomic efficiency of the spinning mill. Permanentmonitoring reduces routine tests and ensures consis-tent quality.

Monitoring systems began their move into the spin-ning mill with the collection of data and monitoring ofthe machines and operating processes. The next devel-opment stage is that the control systems of the futurecan provide help in finding solutions to problems. Withthis integrated advice, industry 4.0 will find its wayinto the Rieter spinning mills.

SPIDERweb the modular conceptThe modular design of SPIDERweb enables any num-ber of machines to be connected. Future modules canbe easily integrated at any time.

SPIDERweb, the basis module, is today the well-knownand proven SPIDERweb system. It forms the founda-tion for connecting further hardware and softwaremodules. SPIDERweb has been continually modernisedand further developed for more than 20 years. Over 10000 machines in nearly 50 countries globally are al-ready connected. Tried and tested modules such as theWallBoard and the individual spindle monitoring ISMare integral parts of the system. The SPIDERweb worldhas been and will be supplemented by new, usefulmodules.

Alert and Cockpit Modules - two new modules thatcomplement each otherThe plant manager defines which parameter transgres-sions he wants to be reported to him. Should a valuebe exceeded or not reached, a short notification willbe sent to his smartphone. He therefore has completecontrol of his spinning mill and must make far fewertours of inspection. This gives him time for otherimportant duties.

The quality manager sets the alarms as he considersappropriate. Reject quotas can be reduced due toquicker response times. The yarn buyer enjoys the highyarn quality consistency of his supplier.

Quick monitoring after receipt of an alarm or a fasteroverview at the end of a shift - the Cockpit Moduleprovides a view of the most important spinning milldata from every location.

Climate Module makes connectionsThat climatic condition in a spinning mill exerts atextile-technological influence on the running behaviourand the quality is a well-known fact.

With the help of the temperature and humidity sen-sors, current values are constantly shown on theWallBoards and are simultaneously transmitted toSPIDERweb. Efficiency reductions without anydiscernable reason gain transparency. Frequent start-up spinning reruns by robots, e.g. on the rotor spin-ning machine, become explainable.

Assistant Module - the efficient helperSLIVERprofessional allows easy problem managementof periodical faults on Rieter draw frames. The fault

SPIDERweb - The Way to anEconomic Spinning Mill

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search is simplified and accelerated. Indication regard-ing the cause of the fault is visually displayed. Longfault diagnostics are therefore a thing of the past.Setting recommendations for each material and slivercount help right from the start to take the right path.

Rieter Spinners' Guide belongs to the AssistantModuleIs a search being made for a new textile application orshould the product range be expanded? Is experiencefor the implementation lacking?

The integrated Spinners' Guide helps and guides di-rectly along the right path. In addition to process rec-ommendations from the bale processing to yarn manu-facture, detailed spinning recipes for all spinning tech-nologies are readable, based on the textile application.Filter functions help to find the right recipe accordingto application, material or yarn count. The Guide shows

which components are needed and how they are used.The way to an optimal, new textile product therebyleads more quickly to success.

Sustainable yarn production with the Energy ModuleThe energy consumption in the spinning mill is notonly a decisive cost factor, but also is important forsustainable yarn production. Verification of the energyconsumption is increasingly required - from authori-ties or for reporting to customers. The Energy Modulehelps to record the energy consumption per kilogramof yarn, simplified and reproducible.

AuthorMarcel RengelTechnical HeadSPIDERweb Data [email protected]

For many years, Rieter has been committed to en-couraging textile trainees. In 2015, the Companyorganised two events for promoting young profes-sionals: in September it was the presentation of theannual Rieter Award and in November a projectfor the ITMA 2015 in cooperation with fashiondesign students of the Secoli Institute in Milan.

L to R: Caroline Marques Castanho (Brazil), YoncaGülgün (Turkey), Pelin Yilmaz (Turkey), Liangjun Xia

(China) and Hardik Pujara (India)

Talent Promotion - RIETER again supportsTextile Trainees in 2015

RIETER AWARD BESTOWED FOR THE 27THTIMEAgain in 2015, the best textile students worldwide werehonored with the Rieter Award. To get to know Rieter'sheadquarters and Swiss culture, a one-week stay inSwitzerland was part of this prize.In collaboration with universities and institutes, in 2015Rieter selected the following six winners:

◆ Hardik Pujara, Maharaja Sayajirao University ofBaroda (India)

◆ Ms Caroline Marques Castanho, University Cen-ter of FEI (Brazil)

◆ Ms Pelin Yilmaz, Dokuz Eylül University (Tur-key)

◆ Ms Yonca Gülgün, Dokuz Eylül University (Tur-key)

◆ Mr. Liangjun Xia, Wuhan Textile University(China)

◆ Mr. Muhammad Bilal Prevez, National TextileUniversity (Pakistan)

ITMA 2015 - FASHION SHOW ON THE RIETERBOOTHAt the ITMA 2015, from 12 to 19 November in Milan,Rieter was present with an innovative booth concept.Central element and eye-catcher was a three metrewide catwalk which ended at a huge screen.

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ITMA 2015 - the innovative and compact stand conceptincluded all Rieter Business Groups

On the screen, a fashion show was running whichshowed the graduation work of the fashion design stu-

dents of the Secoli Institute in Milan. This projectgave young designers the opportunity to showcasethemselves within the framework of an important tex-tile exhibition. The interest this aroused was gratifyingfor all parties. The visit by lecturers of the SecoliInstitute and an expert discussion were the highlightsand simultaneously the conclusion of this project.

Rieter is pleased with the successful ITMA appear-ance and will continue to promote and support youngtextile professionals and talents in 2016.

Rieter makes extensive study material available. Thisincludes Rikipedia, the online encyclopedia of spin-ning technology, as well as a textile calculator for usingon the computer and smartphone. The talent search forthe Award 2016 has already begun.

NEWS

A whole new world of quality testing has openedup with the launch of the USTER®TESTER 6 atITMA in 2015. Unparalleled test speeds, extendedcapabilities and the pathway to Total Testing - withmill-wide quality and profitability benefits - arealready appreciated by users, including one of thebiggest spinners in Bangladesh. Now, theUSTER®TESTER 6 will make its public debut inAsia at Dhaka International Textile & GarmentMachinery Exhibition (DTG).

Pahartali Textile & Hosiery Mills Ltd (PTHM) is sup-porting USTER in presenting the newUSTER®TESTER 6 at the 13th edition of the DTGshow, which was staged from January 28 to 31. PTHMis among the earliest customers for the tester, and al-ready reports that the advantages have exceeded ex-pectations. "At the launch at ITMA in Milan, the newUSTER®TESTER 6 received a very positive feed-back, so we are eager to show this latest USTER in-novation at more shows," says Sivakumar Narayanan,Head of Marketing within Uster Technologies.

PTHM is one of the pioneers of textile manufacturingin Bangladesh. Established in 1954, the company cur-rently has an installed capacity of 71,760 spindles,producing 13,000 metric tons of yarn per year.

As a supplier of high-quality knitting yarn used inexport-oriented industries, PTHM is equipped withstate-of-the-art machinery, including the most techno-logically advanced European and Japanese equipment.Mr. Mahbubul Alam, Chief Operating Officer ofPTHM, explained that this policy was also applied toquality control procedures: "It was clear from the be-ginning that our laboratory must be equipped withUSTER® fiber and yarn testing instruments," he says.The company already operates USTER®HVI 1000,

A whole new world of testing, a host of innovations…USTER®TESTER 6 makes

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USTER®AFIS andUSTER®AUTOSORTER in itsquality management regime and was seeking to re-place its USTER®TESTER 4 - installed in 1998 - tocater for increased production. What at first seemedlike an upgrade requirement has now opened up a wholenew world of yarn testing, Mr. Alam says: "The test-ing speed of 800m/min is already an appreciated im-provement but the advantages arising from the TotalTesting Center have exceeded our expectation regard-ing this investment."

Total Testing Center

The USTER® TESTER 6 is the gateway to the TotalTesting Center, in which its precision laboratory datais interpreted by the USTER®QUALITY EXPERTsoftware and then integrated with information fromyarn clearers to provide a complete picture of spinningmill operations for the entire production volume.

Analysis of this data by USTER®QUALITY EXPERTis the key, examining all quality parameters to guidespinning mills towards fact-based decisions on improve-ment actions. The scope of these features expands asfurther USTER® instruments are linked to the system.Innovative extra support for management comes in theform of Assistant Q - an intelligent helper service whichhas been likened to recruiting a new staff memberwith 65 years' USTER know-how. Part of the TotalTesting Center, Assistant Q simplifies complex issuesand takes over repetitive tasks, so managers can con-centrate on the wider goals.

Essential feature for BangladeshSpinners in Bangladesh, and knitting yarn producersgenerally, will especially value theUSTER®HAIRINESS technology provided byUSTER®TESTER 6. This is the definitive hairinesssolution - combining Sensor HL and Sensor OH -

another convincing factor in PTHM's investment deci-sion.

The Sensor HL was particularly attractive, the com-pany says, for its complete evaluation of the vitalhairiness parameter at high-speed for Hairiness LengthClassification based on protruding fiber lengths. To-gether with the established Sensor OH, spinners nowhave a complete hairiness analysis, giving the bestpossible assurance against quality claims.

Fabric predictionUSTER®TESTER 6 introduces a number of novelfeatures for rapid fault-tracing and quality manage-ment, all designed to minimize downtime and opti-mize quality in both yarns and fabrics. For PTHM, thefabric simulation tool was another investment clincher.This tool gives an advance display of how currentyarn parameters will look in a knitted or woven fabric,using yarn boards - magnified for hairiness views -and reflected and transmitted light for some wovens.

The host of innovations with the newUSTER®TESTER 6 makes it difficult to predict whichwill be the most widely appreciated overall. SaysSivakumar Narayanan: "The USTER®TESTER 6 of-fers sophisticated technology to make it an essentialtool in the spinner's laboratory, with features whichprovide advantages in many fields for yarn produc-tion. I think the key criteria for the purchase decisionsare very individual. Therefore exhibitions are veryimportant, so textile professionals can see the fullpicture and evaluate all the possibilities resulting inthe greatest advantage for them. Thanks to PahartaliTextile & Hosiery Mills, visitors to DTG 2016 will beable to do just that with the USTER®TESTER 6."

For more details please contact:Edith AepliSenior Manager Marketing & CommunicationUster Technologies AGSonnenbergstrasse 10CH - 8610 Uster / SwitzerlandDirect: +41 43 366 38 80Mobile: +41 79 916 02 91Fax: +41 43 366 39 58E-mail: [email protected]: www.uster.com

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The new USTER®TESTER 6 has quality at its heartand soul - and now it also drives spinning mill pro-ductivity and profitability. It is the pulse of a newgeneration in testing, with the brainpower to de-liver precise quality across the entire yarn manu-facturing process. At ITMA 2015,USTER®TESTER 6 will set new standards, signal-ing the future of mill management.

The new USTER®TESTER 6 represents everythingUSTER customers would expect - and much morebesides. It is the latest advance in a technology familythat has always been a key driver of quality in thetextile laboratories of the world. The USTER®TESTER6 simply takes every single quality aspect to a newlevel.

Today, all previous standards are surpassed. The latestsensor technology, highest accuracy and new measure-ment options create the ultimate yarn testing systemand the gateway to Total Testing. TheUSTER®TESTER 6covers all spinning mill processes,and is the essential step forward in guiding customerstowards 'managing a spinning mill with quality in mind'.It has become a unique business tool, transformingdata into practical choices for quality yarns and prof-itable production.

The Total Testing CenterUSTER® TESTER 6 incorporates theUSTER®QUALITY EXPERT, an essential tool forquality management, creating the brand-new TotalTesting Center.Accurate laboratory test results fromthe USTER®TESTER 6 are the starting point for TotalTesting. This data is combined with real-time informa-tion from yarn clearers monitoring100% of mill pro-duction.

The pulse of a new generation…The USTER®TESTER 6: redefining quality testing

Practical analysis and interpretation of this combineddata is the specialty of USTER®QUALITY EXPERT.It goes beyond mere data collection, guiding spinnerstowards targeted improvements in each aspect of yarnproduction, throughout the mill. Vital parameters areautomatically presented from lab tests and yarn clearerdata. Quality and processing options are then com-pared, allowing mill managements to make the crucialdecisions on the basis of all the relevant facts. Fore-casts for customer satisfaction are even provided. Thisincludes predicting weaving performance and givingvital previews of fabric quality. Numerous additionalbenefits are possible as further USTER® instrumentsare connected to the system.

To make the management tasks even easier and faster,the Total Testing Center comes with its own knowl-edgeable support at hand: Assistant Q - a clever sup-port which may be likened to acquiring a new staffmember with 65 years' USTER know-how. AssistantQ provides guidance to complex questions, freeingmanagers from repetitive tasks, so they can focus onthe wider goals.

Sensor innovationsPure innovation is at the core of the USTER®TESTER6: the new digital CS capacitive sensor measures withmore accuracy and reliability than ever, and is readyfor even greater future requirements.

All data including the famous `USTER value´, CVm -is presented in easy-reference graphs. Quality issueswith periodic faults are highlighted, avoiding customercomplaints and claims. The new Product ConsistencyAlert flags up potential problems in advance whenindicating any apparent abnormalities. Spinners arealerted to potential issues caused by significant changesin raw material, yarn structure or yarn count.

USTER®TESTER 6 also features the new Sensor HL,for hairiness length classification. Complete evalua-tion of the vital hairiness parameter is now possible ata speed of 800 m/min. In combination with the estab-lished hairiness Sensor OH, users now have the totalpicture of hairiness, for the first time. TheUSTER®TESTER 6 now provides the definitive hairi-ness solution, giving mills full confidence in control-ling this key quality issue.

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People-friendly, throughout the millLaboratory staff especially will appreciate novel fea-tures of the USTER®TESTER 6. For example, itsdesigned-in ergonomics and superb touchscreen inter-face make it intuitive and user-friendly. Managers willalso welcome the powerful quality package for fiber-to-yarn engineering, backed by built-in USTER knowl-edge for better and faster identification of issues. Withthe USTER®TESTER 6, the laboratory staff andmanagement benefit from its defenses against poten-tially costly claims and damaged reputation.

Quality testing will never be same again, asUSTER®TESTER 6 sets the pulse of the future today

- bringing predictable profits and long-term businesssustainability.

For more details, please contact,Edith AepliSenior Manager Marketing & CommunicationUster Technologies AGSonnenbergstrasse 10CH - 8610 Uster / SwitzerlandDirect: +41 43 366 38 80Mobile: +41 79 916 02 91Fax: +41 43 366 39 58E-mail: [email protected]

Exclusive new features to improve fabric qualityare being introduced in a special version of theUSTER®QUANTUM 3 yarn clearer. Launching atITMA 2015, the USTER®QUANTUM 3 Anniver-sary Edition celebrates 50 years of yarn clearing onautomatic winders. Only 300,000 of the new clear-ers are available, on a first-come-first-served basisfrom November.

In line with the continuing global trend for higherquality, the USTER®QUANTUM 3 Anniversary Edi-tion includes extra defect classes, correlated to theUSTER®CLASSIMAT 5. These classes can be cus-tomized by users to cover specific faults that are nolonger acceptable today. The clearers will then iden-tify, remove and report on these defects.

Yarn clearers for fabric qualityThe USTER®QUANTUM 3 Anniversary Edition in-corporates unique innovations to help spinners achievebetter yarn for better fabrics.

The Core Yarn Clearing option was developed for yarnsused in stretch fabrics. These yarns have an elastanecore within an outer sheath. Unique USTER® sensorsautomatically identify areas in the yarn where the corecomponent is either missing or off-center at a signifi-cant level and over long lengths. This enables a poten-

USTER®QUANTUM 3 Anniversary EditionBetter yarn for better fabrics

tial cause of fabric rejects to be effectively eliminated.

For fabrics made of mélange and colored yarns, varia-tions in color and shade are critical. USTER's advancedforeign matter sensor now avoids such defects with itsShade Variation feature, available withUSTER®QUANTUM 3 Anniversary Edition. Evenvery small divergences from the base yarn shade canbe detected and cleared.

Hairiness variations in yarn can lead to a 'cloudy'appearance in finished fabric, and this is another qual-ity factor secured by the USTER®QUANTUM 3Anniversary Edition. These clearers incorporate onlinemeasurement of true yarn hairiness, so that outlierbobbins can be removed. Additionally, mills with linkedspinning and winding can now monitor the conditionof rings and travelers.

Leverage of yarn clearer for mill managementA further advance with the USTER®QUANTUM3Anniversary Edition is its connection to the TotalTesting Center of the USTER® TESTER 6. This isfacilitated by integration with theUSTER®QUANTUM EXPERT 3 data collection andanalysis system. Information from the winding ma-chine is combined in the Total Testing Center withaccurate laboratory data. This is then interpreted topresent management with practical improvement ad-vice. Spinners can create their own tailored qualitynetwork, extending the analysis options as new instru-ments are connected. The resulting data can be tar-geted to provide valuable knowledge - such as predict-ing exactly how a yarn will perform in weaving.

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The connection between the USTER®QUANTUM 3and the Total Testing Center enables a total overviewof mill operations. The analysis of the data will guideto better quality fabrics.

Since the launch of the third generation of the USTER®QUANTUM 3, more than 30 newsletters have pro-vided specific and practical knowledge on yarn clear-ing topics.

For more details, please contact,Edith AepliSenior Manager Marketing & Communica-tionUster Technologies AGSonnenbergstrasse 10CH - 8610 Uster / SwitzerlandDirect +41 43 366 38 80 Mobile +41 79 916 02 91Fax +41 43 366 39 58E-mail [email protected] www.uster.com/quantum

JEC is the worldwide largest trade fair for Com-posites and the JEC Conferences are the most im-portant conferences of the year. Composites profes-sionals from all over the world will meet in Parisfrom 8 to 10 March 2016. Volkmann will presentthe innovations in glass twisting machines VGT andVGT11-P. At the joint SAURER stand A56 in hall6 visitors will be informed about all new develop-ments in the glass fibre production range.

Largest VGT installation worldwide starts productionThe major order from Taishan Fiberglass for 93 VGTtwisting machines in various specifications could beputinto operation in mid-December 2015. The plantfor textile glass filament yarns in the ShandongProvincewith a maximum capacity of 50,000 tons peryear is the worldwide largest production site for tex-tile twistedglass filament yarns.

Thanks to the Volkmann-typical sectional design, allmachines were started up to thefull satisfaction of thecustomer within the shortest possible time.

First VGT11-P4 Combi glass ring twisting machinestarts productionThe newly developed VGT11-P4 Combi glass ringtwisting machine, which was presented at the JEC2015,successfully started production at the end of 2015.The multiply yarn constructions for the filtrationtechnologyproduced on this machine type meet thehighest requirements of the glass filament market. With

its widefield of applications and high machine effi-ciency the VGT11-P series enjoys a great demand.

Volkmann presents new service network for VerdolmachinesThe original parts and service business taken over fromthe Verdol Reyes Group in France in September2015 strengthens and complements the service andoriginal parts activities of Allma Volkmann in theareasof glass, carpet, staple, tire cord and technicalyarns.

The new office in France, with former employees fromthe Verdol group, offers a perfect expansion of AllmaVolkmann customer services worldwide Volkmanntakes pleasure in welcoming visitors to stand A56 inhall 6 at the JEC 2016 in Paris where it looksforwardto informing them about the latest technological de-velopments.

For more details please contact:GerdPoehlmannHead of Sales, Vice PresidentAllma Volkmann, Zweigniederlassungder Saurer Germany GmbH & Co. KGWeeserweg 6047804 KrefeldGermanyT + 49 2151 [email protected] HovenSenior Manager, Product ManagementAllma Volkmann, Zweigniederlassung derSaurer Germany GmbH & Co. KGWeeserweg 6047804 KrefeldGermanyT + 49 2151 717 [email protected]

Volkmann presents the latest technologiesin glass twisting at the JEC

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The Textile Association (India) has been elected thenew Office Bearers for the term 2015-2017 duringtheir Governing Council Meeting held on 21-01-2016at Bengaluru.

After the fair and transparent procedure from the validnominations received, Dr. G. S. Nadiger, appointedReturning Officer for conducting the election, hasdeclared Mr. Arvind Sinha has been elected as Presi-dent and Mr. H. N. Jain has been elected as Vice Presi-dent for the term 2015-2017.

Mr. Arind Sinha is B.Text Techfrom TIT, Bhiwani and MMSfrom Bombay University havebeen involved with various in-dustries in India and abroad forlast thirty years. He has beenvery actively involved withWorld Bank and IMF for lastmany years for various projectsand received many Appreciation

and merit Certificates for his involvement his studiesand project work.

Mr. Sinha is currently Chief Advisor and CEO ofBusiness Advisors Group which is a leading sourcingcompany for Relief Supplies globally and also thecontent creator and provider for critical studies andmanagement issues.

He is a Specialist on Chinese matter and involvedinternationally with various Institutions for studies onChinaand Far East. He is also a speaker on Chinesematter, Chinese Economics and Chinese model forsuccess. He is also actively involved in promoting andimplementing Food Safety Management System underUSFDA guidelines. He is an Art and Antique collectorand three of his records are listed in Guinness WorldRecord.

Mr. H. N. JainShri H. N. Jain passed B.Text inthe year 1961 from Delhi Poly-technic, Delhi TechnologicalUniversity (DTU), formerlyknown as Delhi College of En-gineering (DCE), and M.B.A.from Faculty of ManagementStudies, Delhi University. He has

worked with Delhi Cloth Mills (DCM) from 1961 to1976. He has also worked with National Textile Cor-poration (NTC), Uttar Pradesh from 1976 to 1997. Atpresent he is associated with The Textile Association(India).

Mr. V. D. Zope obtained aBachelor Degree in TextileTechnology in the year 1975from Bombay University with2nd rank in the merit list. Hewas awarded Research Fellow-ship by Century Mills, Mumbaiunder the guidanceof BTRA,Mumbai for obtaining PostGraduate Degree in Textile

Technology of Mumbai University. He has vast expe-rience of 34 years in private and public sector textilemills.

He is very much associated with The Textile Associa-tion (India) and had worked with the capacity as Hon.Treasurer, Hon. Jt. Secretary.

Mr. Haresh B. Parekh is an x-student of SASMIRA, who hascompleted his Diploma in Weav-ing in theyear 1977. After thecompletion of studies he joinedHindustan Spinning and Weav-ing Mills, Mumbai and thereafter served in reputed textilehouses like, Mafatlal Group ofIndustries and Standard Group

and Orkay Silk Mills.Mr. Parekh is the active memberof The Textile Association (India) (TAI), Mumbai Unitsince 1983 and has been serving as Hon. Jt. Gen. Sec-retary of TAI, Central Office since 2007.

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) - Central OfficeMr. Arvind Sinha re-elected as National President of TAI

Mr. Arvind SinhaNational President

Mr. H. N. JainNational President

Mr. V. D. ZopeChairman

Mr. Haresh B. ParekhHon. Gen. Secretary

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Also Following Members were elected:

Mr. P. M. Dhond Hon. Dr. N. N. MahapatraTreasurer Vice Chairman

Mr. M. G. Shah Mr. Kannan KrishnamurthyHon. Jt. Gen. Secretary Hon. Jt. Gen. Secretary

Office Bearers for the term 2015-2017National President Mr. Arvind SinhaNational Vice President Mr. H. N. JainChairman Mr. V. D. ZopeVice Chairman Dr. N. N. MahapatraHon. Gen. Secretary Mr. Haresh B. ParekhHon. Jt. Gen. Secretary Mr. M. G. ShahHon. Jt. Gen. Secretary Mr. Kannan KrishnamurthyHon. Treasurer Mr. P. M. Dhond

Co-opted Members for the term 2015-2017Chairman -Editorial Board Dr. M. D. TeliChairman - PAC Dr. G. S. NadigerChairman - BPC Prof. Ashwin ThakkarCo-opted Members Mr. R. K. VijCo-opted Members Mr. H. J. PatelSpecial Invitee Mr. J. B. Soma

Mr. B. Purushothama

Award Certificate Award Memento

Bharat Gaurav Award 2016 was presented to Mr. B.Purushothama for his meritorious services, outstand-

ing performance and remarkable role played in theTextile Industry and Education. Mr. B. Purushothama,an active member of the Textile Association (India)was awarded TAI Ratna by the Textile Association(India) on the platinum jubilee celebrations on 9th April2014. He has authored number of technical and man-agement books for textile technicians, involved inactivities of PAC and BPC. He was Hon. Secretary ofMiraj Unit and Karnataka units of The Textile Asso-ciation (India).

India international Friendship Society is a voluntaryorganization established to forge greater unity andintegrity among the people of Indian origin livinganywhere in the world. The society also aims to en-hance India's broad relationship and forge greaterfriendship and cooperation with all the countries onthe globe, irrespective of small or big, developed,developing or underdeveloped.

By virtue of this, the society wishes to see all-aroundprogress and development of all, inclusive of our coun-try. Its programme is to share professional, educational,industrial and even personal experience with all thepeople of this continent and the others.

The society has also a programme of coordinating

Bharat Gaurav Award 2016

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India's and N.R.I.'s efforts in creating joint ventures.For this purpose it has an advisory committee in whichsome talented and highly respected Indian experts indiverse fields, such as Economists, journalists, Social-ists, Industrialists, Scholars, Engineering Experts,Member of Parliament and some retired Generals areinvolved. Many a time the society has invited N.R.I.'sfrom distant places to confer with their Indian counter-parts to have a successful collaborative and fruitfuldiscussion.

Since 2016 marks the hundredth anniversary of thereturn of the greatest 'Pravasi' of all, Mahatma Gandhifrom South Africa, Global Friendship Day was cel-ebrated in a grand way by recognizing 100 people ofexcellence in different fields from all over India.

At this event, the Society conferred "Bharat GauravAward" to 100 luminous personalities in India andabroad, who have glorified India with outstandingcontributions in their specialized fields, such as sci-ence & technology, education, services providers in-dustry, politics and social work, peace and harmony,religious activities, arts and literatures, etc. Theprogramme was held on 11 March 2016 at India Inter-national Centre, New Delhi. Sri Bhishma Narain Singh,former Governor of Tamil Nadu and Assam, and alsounion minister in the cabinet of late Smt Indiragandhiwas the chief guest. Lt. Gen. Krishna Mohan Seth,former Governor of HP and Chattisghad, CommanderP. R. Raghunath, Managing Director of MazagaonDocks, Mr. Ved Prakash a very senior member of AllIndia Congress Committee were on the dais. A semi-nar was held with a theme of "National Integrationand Economic Growth" before giving the awards.

To name a few of the past recipients of this mostcoveted Award are - late Her Holiness Mother Teressa,former Vice President of India, B. D. Jatti, Gen. G. V.Krishna Rao, Air Chief Marshal N. C. Suri, JoginderSingh, Former CBI Director, NRI business-magnateVijay Mallya, super movie stars, like Dev Anand, LateSunil Dutt, Rajesh Khanna, Raveena Tandon andJayaprada, Singer Pankaj Udhas, famous cricket starSunil Gavaskar and Kapil Dev, NRIs like Lord BikhuParekh, Lord Navnit Dholakia, Baroness. SandipVerma, Lord Daljit Rana, Lord Shaikh, Lord Patel ofBradford. Cllr Surinder Dhesi, Cllr Jagjit S Grewal,Cllr Balvinder Saund, Mr. Harinder S. Takhar (Minis-ter of the Crown of Province of Ontario, Canada), DrRamesh Sachdeva, Dr. Sampat Shivangi, Dr. BhagwanT.Sahni & Dr. Sant Ram, Dr. Sudhir Shrivastava. Dr.Radhu Agarwal, Dinu Patel. Dr. Jayanti Singh, (Allfrom USA), Bimal Dey (France), Ashok Verma (Ger-many), Kiran Virat (Nigeria), Shamim Raj Banshi (MP),Omie Singh (MP) & Vivan Reddy (South Africa) AbdulR. Rumane (Kuwait), P. D. Patel (Dubai). Dr. D.Shankar (UK). Paramjeet Dandha MP & Marsha SinghM. P. House of Comman, UK, Judge Mota Singh (UK).

On this joyous moment, The Textile Association (In-dia)-Central Office congratulate Mr. B. Purushothamafor scaling new height and conferring 'Bharat GauravAward' by India international Friendship Society forhis recognize distinguished services of high order tothe The Textile Association (India) and the country.

The Textile Association (India) is honored and feelingproud with this award.

Mr. Mayank J. Roy, President (ITAMMA) lighting theLamp during the inauguration

The 4th International Power Transmission Expo(IPTEXPO) and the 2nd International Grinding andSurface Finishing Expo (GRINDEXPO) was organizedby Virgo Communications and Exhibitions (P) Ltd.,Bangalore, during 3-5 March, 2016 at Bombay Exhi-bition Center, Goregaon, Mumbai.

This Expo brought in the most innovative technolo-gies, products and solutions from India and abroad inregard with power transmission systems as well asgearing technologies. The twin expo attracted over 100leading companies from across the globe showcasing

IPTEX 16 4TH International PowerTransmission Expo & Grindex International 2016

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their latest products. The seminars on various impor-tant aspects of Gears, Grinding and Heat Treatmentwere also organized during the exhibition period.

The main aim of Indian Textile Accessories & Ma-chinery Manufacturers' Association (ITAMMA) forparticipating in this exhibition was to given an oppor-tunity for our members to enrich their knowledge onthe latest technology in gearing and power transmis-sion systems through this exhibition. This was a verygood opportunity for our members to know the latesttechnologies of gearing and power transmission sys-tems for adopting the same in their manufacturingprocess in order to deliver a state-of-art assembliesand machines.

ITAMMA being a supporting organization to the aboveevent was offered a complimentary stall No.F-1.Accordingly a 'Catalogue Display Scheme' was ex-ecuted by ITAMMA in its stall under the banner ofITAMMA Pavilion.

Following ITAMMA's members participated in theCatalogue Display Scheme:

Britex Industries,Phone: 2287 2449 / 19Fax: (022)2287 3597 / 2287 0770e-mail: [email protected]: www.wiperdrive.comCentury Inks Pvt. Ltd.,Phone: 2887 3360 / 2886 0790Fax: (022)2887 5432e-mail: [email protected]: [email protected]: www.centurymarkers.comExcel Industrial Gears Pvt. Ltd.,Phone: 2262 1943Fax: (022)2266 1545e-mail: [email protected]: [email protected]: www.excelpiv.com

Mr. Mayank J. Roy, President, ITAMMA, delivering theInaugural Speech

Mr. Mayank J. Roy, President, ITAMMA, was invitedto inaugurate the exhibition along with Mr. JoeFranklin, Jr. President, American Gear ManufacturersAssociation (AGMA), USA.

Mr. Mayank J. Roy during his inaugural speech men-tioned that today the Gear Technology has Changed &Improved for Quality, Precision, Durability, Incorpo-rating - Heat Treatment, Teeth Profile Grinding, forIGMA quality standard for Textile Machines, PrintingMachines, Robot Welding Plant for Automobile Indus-tries, Medical Equipment for Laser Technique Machinesfor accurate operation for Human Organs like Eye-Ball, Brain etc. This application required Gear with3D Backless for such quality checking precision mea-suring equipment also developed.

We at Excel Industrial Gears Pvt. Ltd. since 1977 areserving to various Industries in India & Abroad. Healso added that this exhibition will create an excellentplatform for our member from TEI to explore for newtechnologies in gearing and transmitting systems andgood vendors for their products. ITAMMA being old-est and largest Association in TEI and has to its recordmore than 480 members. We expect our members inlarge members as visitors for this exhibition.

ITAMMA have been supporting the International PowerTransmission Expo, IPTEX and International Grind-ing and Surface Finishing Expo GRINDEX, for thelast two events. It is our pleasure to provide the plat-form for a business oriented interaction with the manu-facturers and suppliers of gears and mechanical powerequipment, who are important for our business, beingthe source of machine components for delivering goodquality textile machines.

Mr. N.D. Mhatre, Director General (Tech), ITAMMAdelivering Key Note Address

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Mr. N.D. Mhatre, Director General (Tech), ITAMMA,also delivered a Key Note Address where he gave adetail Power Point Presentation and conveyed theimportance of gearing and transmission systems in thedevelopment of present hi-tech weaving machines. Healso mentioned that the inception of various technolo-gies and automation in computerizing, hydraulics,pneumatics, electromagnetic have been introduced inthe present machines where the slow moving andlengthy drives through mechanical linkages have beeneliminated. Also certain technologies like crank mo-tions replaced by cam motions and heavy media of

web transfers through heavy wooden shuttles have alsobeen replaced by light and fast moving media of Airjet,Waterjet and Rapier technologies.

These developments have increased the performanceand have also helped in conservation of energy, powerand proved to be user friendly to the operators. Theseconservations have also changed the concept of lubri-cation where introduction of central lubrication sys-tem with an attachment of filtration have been incor-porated in the looms itself.

Dr. N.N. Mahapatra delivering the presentation

Mr. Bharat Trivedi delivering the presentation

Dr. N.N. Mahapatra,a noted speaker and author and atechnocrat of India spoke about the 'Recent Trends inDyeing' like Super Critical Carbon Dye oxide mediumof dyeing polyester and the colorzen dyeing technol-ogy and salt free reactive dyeing for cotton. In thecoming 5-10 yrs. the Dyeing industry in Pakistan willsee both the technologies being used in the Industry.

Mr. Bharat Trivedi,Export Manager,Colorant Ltd. alsospoke about the Export Trends in World Market withreference to India and Pakistan. They were welcomedby Dr.Wasim Ibrahim,Chairman,Textile ProcessingDept. and Dr.TanveerHussain,Vice-Chancellor of theUniversity. They informed that Dr.Mahapatra is thefirst person from India to deliver a technical lecture inPakistan University.

Delegates from the textile industry, consultants andstudents attended in large number.

Dr. N. N. Mahapatra,Vice-President,Colorant Ltd. and Vice-Chairman, The Textile Association (India) delivers technical

lecture at National Textile University,Faislabad,Pakistan.

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Shri Suresh B. Rao, a prominent doyen of TextileEngineering Industry, Trustee & past President ofITAMMA left for heavenly abode on 28th February,2016.

The textile engineering industry in general andITAMMA in particular have suffered a grievous lossonhis passing away and recalls with high appreciationhis abiding contributions.

Shri Suresh Rao born on 24th December, 1936, wasnicknamed 'Babu' having been born at Babulnathtempleroad, South Mumbai. He passed his S.S.C at an earlyage of only 13 years due to a doublepromotion inschool and graduated at 18 years in Bachelors of Sci-ence in Chemistry from SiddharthCollege, Mumbai.He then studied L.L.B at Government Law CollegeMumbai. He completedManagement studies from pres-tigious Bajaj Institute - in the very first batch con-ducted by the institution.

His first love was playing Cricket. A specialized leftarm spinner, he played the first level of the gameatKanga League matches. He acquired membership andplayed actively at Karnataka Sports Association,HinduGymkhana and Mumbai Cricket Association&Wankhede club Mumbai soon after. Hekeenlyfollowed the game and watched the India -Paki-

stan T20 Asia cup match a day before passing away.

Shri Rao was the Sole Proprietor of M/s. UniversalMarketing Corporation, Mumbai, which completed50glorious and successful years in 2015. His late wifeSmt. Shubha Suresh Rao was a strong pillar ofsupportthrough his personal and professional endeavors.

Shri Suresh Rao was elected as the 51st & 52nd Presi-dent of ITAMMA in the year 1993-94 & 1994-95andalso had been on the Board of Trustees since last2 decades. Till the very last day of his passing away,hepro-actively addressed ITAMMA through correspon-dence in spite of his failing health through sheerwillpower and dedication.

During his Presidentship of ITAMMA and Vice-Chair-manship of India-ITME Society, he took keeninterestin the Activities of the Association. He was amenableand courteous in handling various issuesconcerning theactivities of the Association.

The demise of Shri Suresh Rao created a void whichis difficult to fill. He will be very much missed bythemembers of ITAMMA, India-ITME Society and allhis colleagues who had benefitted by hiscounsel.ITAMMA members shared their sorrow andinvoked Divine Grace to give strength to his daugh-ters, Ms.SadhanaDhargalkar, Ms. Archana Rao and hisson-in-law Mr. PrafulDhargalkar, the members ofhisfamily & other relatives to bear the loss with cour-age and equanimity.

In order to acknowledge the contributions made bylate Shri S.B. Rao to the Textile EngineeringIndustryand express the industry's feelings, a condo-lence meeting of ITAMMA was held at 4.00p.m.onWednesday, the 16th March, 2016 in the M.C.Ghia Hall at K.Dubash Marg, Mumbai as a markofrespect to late Mr. S.B. Rao, wherein a Resolutionwas passed.

Sad demise of Shri S.B. Rao,Trustee & Past-President of ITAMMA

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There is a long road ahead for Africa to emulateEast Asia

The great steel roofs of Nigeria's textile mills are animpressive sight, occupying block after block in thenorthern city of Kano. Yet from the ground a verydifferent picture emerges. Entire estates sit eerily emptyin what was once the country's industrial heartland. Ahandful of indigo-dye pits and the odd leather tanneryconstitute what little is left of a manufacturing busi-ness that was booming just a couple of decades ago.Thecollapse of Nigeria's textile industry, which has gonefrom employing more than 350,000 people to favourthan a tenth as many, reflects a wider problem ofdeindustrialisation across Africa that has occurredduring a decade of rapid growth driven by high com-modity prices.

Over the past 15 years sub-Saharan African economieshave expanded at an average rate of about 5% a year,enough to have doubled output over the period. Theywere helped largely by a commodities boom that wascaused, in part, by rapid urbanisation in China. AsChina's economy has slowed, the prices of many com-modities mined in Africa have slumped again. Copper,for instance, now sells for about half as much as it didat its peak. This, in turn, is hitting Africa's growth: theIMF reckons it will slip to under 4% this year, leading

many to fret that a harmful old pattern of commodity-driven boom and bust in Africa is about to repeat it-self. One of the main reasons to worry is that Africa'smanufacturing industry has largely missed out on theboom.

The figures are stark. The UN's Economic Commis-sion says reckons that from 1980 to 2013 the Africanmanufacturing sector's contribution to the continent'stotal economy actually declined from 12% to 11%,leaving it with the smallest share of any developingregion. Moreover, in most countries in sub-SaharanAfrica, manufacturing's share of output has fallenduring the past 25 years. A comparison of Africa andAsia is striking. In Africa manufacturing provides justover 6% of all jobs, a figure that barelychanged overmore than three decades to 2008. In Asia the figuregrew from 11% to 16% over the same period.

To be sure, many countries de-industrialise as theygrow richer (growth in service-based parts of theeconomy, such as entertainment, helps shrinkmanufacturing's slice of the total). But many Africancountries are de-industrialising while they are still poor,raising the worrying prospect that they will miss outon the chance to grow rich by shifting workers fromfarms to higher-paying factory jobs.

Premature deindustrialisation is not just happening inAfrica, other developing countries are also seeing thegrowth of factories slowing, partly because technol-ogy is reducing the demand for low-skilled workers.Manufacturing has become less labour intensive acrossthe board. That means that it is hard, and getting harder,for African firms to create jobs in the same numbersthat Asian ones did from the 1970s onwards.

Yet deindustrialisation appears to be hitting Africancountries particularly hard. This is partly because weakinfrastructure drives up the costs of making things.The African Development Bank found in 2010 thatelectricity, a large cost for most manufacturers, coststhree times more on average in Africa than it doeseven in South Asia. Poor roads and congested portsalso drive up the cost of moving raw materials about

Industrialisation in AfricaCompiled and Sourced by Mr.Arvind Sinha

This May Interest You!!

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and shipping out finished goods.

Africa's second disadvantage is, perversely, its bountyof natural riches. Booming commodity prices over thepast decade brought with them the "Dutch disease":economies benefiting from increased exports of oil andthe like tend to see their exchange rates driven up,which then makes it cheaper to import goods such ascars and fridges, and harder to produce and exportlocally manufactured goods.

Africa's final snag is its geography. East Asia's stringof successes happened under the "flying geese" modelof development, where a "lead" country creates a slip-stream for others to follow.

This happened first in the 1970s, when Japan movedlabour-intensive manufacturing to Taiwan and SouthKorea. But Africa seems to have missed the flock.Africaleads leading goose like Japan. Light manufacturing isleaving China for neighbouring Bangladesh, Vietnam,Thailand& Indonesia rather than distant Africa, de-spite its promise of plentiful cheap labour. And in thecoming century Africa will find it difficult to growthrough that route.

Yet some African countries are bucking the trend.Ethiopia's manufacturing has grown by an average ofover 10% a year in 2006-14, from a very low base,partly because it has courted foreign investors. Weapproached Holland's horticultural firms, China's tex-tile and leather firms and Turkey's garment firms. Nowwe're bringing in German and Swiss pharmaceuticals.

Leading Economist feels that Ethiopia's relative suc-cess has come from its focused policy. Poor countriesoften find it hard to decide whether to spread theirnew infrastructure widely or to focus on the mostpromising areas. Rather than electrify the whole coun-try, Ethiopia has concentrated on providing power andtransport links to its industrial parks. It also seemswise to bring in firms with links to industries thatalready exist there. Domestic firms learn from beingin the same value chain as the foreign firm. Firms

buying from local suppliers tend to raise local qualityby sending managers and technicians to them. Thishelps them to produce more sophisticated goods.

Ethiopia is not alone. Tanzania, where manufacturingoutput has grown 7.5% annually from 1997-2012, iswooing Chinese and Singaporean clothing firms andstarted building its first megaport and industrial parklast month.

Nonetheless, factories are not creating nearly enoughjobs for the millions of young people moving intocities each year. Most of them end up in part-timeemployment in low-productivity businesses such asgroceries or restaurants, which are limited by the tinydomestic economy; Africa generates only 2% of theworld's demand. To grow fast, African countries needto shift workers into more productive industries. Theirgovernments need to provide the infrastructure and theincentives for manufacturing firms to set up. Withoutdetermined action, they risk another lost decade as thecommodity bust deepens.

However, Africa particularly Nigeria, Tanzania & Ethio-pia are facing boom of start-ups.Many individual en-terprises has come up and are focusing on small manu-facturing facilities,innovations which are helping them.Today Social Media is a great help to promote themworldwide. Many Industries such as garmenting par-ticularly leather and high value shirts are getting manu-factured and going all over the world.

Chinese investment in Africa is becoming a real bless-ing and there is a possibility in the long run China willhelp industrialisation in Africa.

Compiled and Sourced by,Mr.Arvind SinhaM/s. Business Advisors GroupMumbaiCell No. 9820062612 / 8108612612Email ID : [email protected]/

[email protected]

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INDIA

11th Edition of Fibres& Yarns 2016Date : 07th to 09th April, 2016Venue : Expo Centre,World Trade Centre, Cuff Pared,

Mumbai, IndiaContact : Rakesh Sharma

TecoyaInfotech Pvt. Ltd.D-66, Oshiwara Industrial Centre,Opp. Oshiwara Bus Depot,AndheriMalad Link Road,Goregaon (W), Mumbai - 400 104

Tel. : 91-22-66978533/66978534/66978535/28793022Fax : 91-22-28793022E-mail : [email protected], [email protected],

Textile Machinery Expo - 2016Date : 14th to 15th April, 2016Venue : Mahatma Mandir, Gandhinagar, Gujarat (India)Contact : Mr.Gopesh Nair - Event Director Mriya Events

302, Srusti Apartment, Near Vidyani School,Sama, Vadodara- 390 008 (Guj.) IndiaM. : 9723236289,9723231666E-mail : [email protected],

[email protected] : www.textilemachineryexpo.com

Technotex 2016 - 5th edition slated for April 2016Date : 21st to 23rd April, 2016Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre,

Goregaon (E), Mumbai, IndiaContact : HimanshuGoyal - Research Associate -

Trade Fairs FICCIFederation House, 1, Tansen Marg,New Delhi - 110 001

Tel. : +91-11-23487568Fax : +91-11-23320714 / 23721504M. : +91-9873220059E-mail : [email protected] : www.ficci.com, www.technotexindia.in

Texfair2016 - Textile Machinery ConglomerateTextile Machinery, Accessories & Spares ExhibitionDate : 20th to 23rd May, 2016Venue : CODISSIA Trade Fair Complex,

Coimbatore, (India)Contact : The Southern India Mills' Association, CoimbatoreTel. : +91-422-4225333E-mail : [email protected],

Non Woven Tech Asia 20163rdNon Woven International Exhibition & ConferenceDate : 02nd to 4th June, 2016Venue : Hall No. 5, Bombay Exhibition Centre,

NSE Complex, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, IndiaContact : Radeecal Communications,Tel. : +91-079-26401101/2/3M. : +91-9173440725,E-mail : [email protected] : www.nonwoventechasia.com

FORTHCOMING EVENTS

World Textile Conference -2Date : 16th &17thSeptember, 2016Venue : Hotel Sahara Star, Opp. Domestic Airport,

Vile Parle (E), Mumbai, IndiaContact : Hon. Gen. Secretary

The Textile Association (India)2, Dwarkanath Mansion,Near Nirmal Nursing Home, 91,Ranade Road Extension, Shivaji park,Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 India

Tel. : 91-22-2446 1145Fax : 91-22-2447 4971E-mail : [email protected],

International Conference on Technical Textiles and Nonwovens(ICTN)Date : 10th-12th November, 2016Venue : Indian Institute of Technology,

Delhi HauzKhas, New Delhi - 110 016Contact : Department of Textile Technology,

IIT Delhi New Delhi - 110 016Prof. R. Alagirusamy -

M. : +91-9818133350, [email protected]. Apurba Das -

M. : +91-9871648134, [email protected] : +91-11-2658 1103,M. : +91 9909904179E-mail : [email protected] : www.textileconferenceiitd.com

ITME 2016The Integrated Textile & Garment Manufacturing Technolo-gies ShowcaseDate : 03rd to 08th December, 2016Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre,

Goregaon (E), Mumbai, IndiaContact : Executive Director

India ITME Society1210/1211, Dalamal Tower, A wing, 12th Floor,Plot No.211, Nariman Point,Mumbai- 400 021 India

Tel. : +91-022-2202 0032, 2282 8138Fax : +91-022-2285 1578E-mail : [email protected] : [email protected]

ABROAD

ITM 2016 Turkey (International Textile, Yarn, Knitting, Weav-ing, Dyeing, Printing, Finishing and Hosiery Machineries, Sub-Industries and Chemical Exhibition)Date : 01st to 04th June, 2016Venue : TUYAP Fair, Convention and Congress Center,

Istanbul, TurkeyContact : Teknik Fairs Limited Company

YakupluMerkezMah, Osmanli Cad, Guney Konaklan,B-Block No., 1 Kat 3 Daire 6 34524 Beylikduzu,ISTANBUL, Turkiye

Tel.: + (0) 212.876-75-06 (PBX)Fax : + (0) 212.876-06-81E-mail : [email protected] : www.itm2016.com

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