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Tasmania’s northern city has finally shed its image as Hobart’s country cousin, flaunting an exciting food scene where homegrown wines and produce are king.

launceston

Words shannon harley PHoTograPHy mark roper

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set on the banks of the Tamar River, ‘Lonny’ (as it’s known by locals) now has much more to offer than beautiful scenery and misty views over Cataract Gorge.

A proliferation of cool cafes, stylish restaurants and boutique delis has helped the often overlooked city mature into a destination for food and wine lovers alike. But despite this swan-like transformation, the ethos around town remains simple: showcase the region’s produce with as little intervention as possible. With plenty of newcomers as well as reputed institutions, it’s now just as easy to track down a decent coffee as it has always been to enjoy a glass of elegant Pipers Brook sparkling.

where to eat Launceston icon Stillwater (Ritchie’s Mill, 2 Bridge Rd, (03) 6331 4153) has been delighting with hearty breakfasts, casual lunches and refined dinners since 2000. Set in Ritchie’s Mill at the mouth of the Cataract Gorge, the exposed timber beams and kauri pine floor offer a rustic warmth in contrast to executive chef Craig Will’s lively produce-driven menu. Expect local delicacies, such as southern rock lobster or beetroot-cured stripey trumpeter with shaved fennel, ocean crackle and citrus-infused creme fraiche, cooked in Craig’s signature grounded style. Sommelier James Welsh shares his passion for Tasmanian wines that you’re unlikely to

Clockwise: Mud Bar and restaurant; stillwater’s Craig Will; slow-roasted lamb 

from Brisbane street Bistro; Tant Pour Tant. Previous page: Fresh on Charles.

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find on other menus. There’s a private dining room in the original bluestone cellar and a cosy bar with views over the river where you can drop in for coffee and cake or an aperitif.

At Brisbane Street Bistro (24 Brisbane St, (03) 6333 0888), chef and owner Terry Fidler shucks Swanport oysters to order, serving them laced with a subtle vinaigrette or in their briny water with just a squeeze of lemon juice. Petuna salmon with grapefruit, horseradish cream and fried capers, and slow-roasted lamb with peas and braised lettuce are created from the ingredients farmers bring to the kitchen door each day. Located in a Victorian terrace complete with crystal candelabras and elaborate fireplace, the polished ambience allows for an intimate meal with faultless service.

For water views and a Scandi-chic vibe, head to Mud Bar and Restaurant (28 Seaport Blvd, (03) 6334 5066). The service is friendly and the waiters will expertly take you through the menu, which reads like a landscape painting of Tassie. Chef and owner Scott McMurray’s food is fresh with Mediterranean flourishes – think a wedge of iceberg dressed with aioli, oysters garnished with roasted tomato and crispy pancetta, saffron and scallop risotto with

pangrattato, and Black Angus from a farm 10 minutes away grilled to medium-rare perfection. If the sun is out, take a seat on the deck and savour crispy calamari and a glass of riesling.

If you like your meat grass-fed, hormone-free and dry-aged, head to Black Cow Bistro (70 George St, (03) 6331 9333). Brought to you by the Stillwater crew, Black Cow is an upmarket steak house set in an original Art Deco butcher shop where you choose your cut, then add a sauce and side – perhaps Cafe de Paris butter and cauliflower parmesan gratin. There’s plenty of Tamar Valley pinots, plus big reds from the mainland to wash down your steak.

It started as five tables 12 years ago and now Fresh on Charles (178-180 Charles St, (03) 6331 4299) occupies the entire building, doubling as a unique day and evening

venue serving hearty vegetarian fare with the occasional music gig and comedy night. The all-day breakfast menu entices with the likes of couscous porridge with coconut cream and almonds, baked eggs with chilli beans and a quirky jalapeno bagel with cheddar. The decor is retro with Tretchikoff prints on the walls and the vibe is ultra-relaxed. You’ll find plenty of nooks to settle in for a few hours with a newspaper and a watermelon juice, a glass of organic Bye’s Liffey Valley wine or a sharing plate of mushroom risotto, polenta with feta, roasted eggplant and housemade dips.

Drop in to Tant Pour Tant (226 Charles St, (03) 6334 9884) for luscious French pastries, buttery croissants and baguettes straight from the oven, or if eggs and bacon on sourdough is your calling, head to Elaia (240 Charles St, (03) 6331 3307) for the generous all-day breakfast. Just up the road, Cafe Mondello (242 Charles St, (03) 6331 7007) is a new kid on the block offering cafe fare and a chic European feel,

Clockwise: Fresh on Charles; poached eggs on cornbread with harissa from Fresh on Charles; Black Cow Bistro; ritchie’s Mill, which houses stillwater and The Mill Providore.

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where to shopAfter 10 years behind the stove at his eponymous restaurant at Strathlynn, chef Daniel Alps continues to source the finest Tasmanian produce at his one-stop corner store Alps & Amici (52 Abbott St, (03) 6331 1777). You’ll find everything from Art of Sausage snags, Woodbridge

Smokehouse salmon, Grandvewe gelato, Pyengana cheese and Yves Ginat’s fabulously fragrant Miellerie honey to fresh persimmons and Tassie wines. Daniel hasn’t put away his apron either – you can find him preparing marinated meats and seasonal meals to take home, including soups, curries, braises and pasta sauces, while his wife, Sally, will bake special occasion cakes and cupcakes to order.

Delicacy (35 Canning St, (03) 6334 8911) is also worth a look for its cornucopia of artisan products, local and imported cheeses, condiments, salumi, oils, organic bread, biscuits and other ingredients for the perfect picnic.

plus great coffee and a tempting array of baked goods. Those in need of a caffeine fix on the other side of town can head to Epic (Centreway Arcade, 0466 873 423) a hole-in-the-wall cafe off Brisbane Street run by Terry Fidler’s gregarious daughter Amelia.

The burgers at Burger Got Soul (243 Charles St, (03) 6334 5204) are generous stacks of top-quality beef or chicken and market-fresh salad on housemade buns, served with perfectly seasoned thick-cut chips. The decor is reminiscent of a Harlem diner and you can order a chocolate milkshake or lime spider to go with your ‘Soul Mama’ (beef with roasted capsicum, dill pickle, tzatziki and harissa) or ‘Funky Chicken’ (grilled chicken, avocado, crispy bacon and mayo).

Clockwise: Michele round from Pinot shop; wine tasting at Pinot shop; Cocobean Chocolate; alps & amici.

Get your sweet fix at Cocobean Chocolate (82 George St, (03) 6331 7016) with one of the Venezuelan single-origin hot chocolate melts or handmade flavoured truffles. For a guaranteed cocoa-coma, go for the decadent tasting plate or one of the daily housemade desserts, which could be their signature mud cake or choc-raspberry brownies. The eight-times chocolate-dipped macadamias are the perfect combo of velvety chocolate and nut crunch, and the saffron-scented dark variety is surprisingly delicious.

Whether you have a reservation at Stillwater downstairs or are visiting the gallery upstairs, be sure to pop in to The Mill Providore (Ritchie’s Mill, 2 Bridge Rd, (03) 6331 0777). The shelves are laden with Tassie-made comestibles from lavender-scented leatherwood honey and raspberry jam to pickled walnuts, whose sweetly astringent bite makes them perfect for a cheese platter. There’s also beautiful sassafras salad bowls and cheeseboards,

cookbooks and handmade jewellery, pottery, candles, knitted children’s clothes and homewares to peruse.

Michele Round has a passion for pinot and sources rare varieties from Tasmania and further afar. You can buy online, but a visit to the Pinot Shop (135 Paterson St, (03) 6331 3977) is well worth it for a tasting and some of Michele’s unwavering insider knowledge. “Tasmanian varieties are great value for money and offer consistent rich flavours of black fruit, cherry and aromatic spices, such as cinnamon and star anise,” she says. Lovers of lighter grape juice need not despair – there are plenty of bubbles and whites to try, too.

where to stayTwoFourTwo (242 Charles St, (03) 6331 9242, twofourtwo.com.au, from $205 including breakfast provisions) offers luxury, self-contained accommodation in the heart of Launceston. Owners Katie and Alan Livermore have turned an old bakery into modern studio apartments with all the trimmings, from Max Brenner hot chocolate sets to elegant wood furniture (made by Alan), locally made toiletries, a ‘maxi-bar’ loaded with premium wines, beers and happy hour snacks, plus a fully equipped kitchen featuring an espresso machine that you may not even switch on with new Cafe Mondello (see ‘Where to Eat’) downstairs. There’s also a two-bedroom townhouse that’s perfect for groups and families.

The newly renovated Hotel Charles (287 Charles St, (03) 6337 4100, hotelcharles.com.au, from $159 per double) is a gleaming edifice at the top of Charles Street with views over the town. Although built around an Art Deco skeleton, the rooms are extremely sleek and modern.

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Clockwise: stunning Jansz vineyard; TwoFourTwo studio accommodation;  the view from Van dieman Brewing;  The Mill Providore.

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the wine trailNorthern Tasmania rolls out barrels of fabulous wines, from lively sparklings that dance across the tongue to refreshing rieslings and rich reds. There’s an abundance of wineries to explore in the Tamar Valley and you can plan your own daytrip at tamarvalleywineroute.com.au.

One hour north-east of Launceston through rolling countryside takes you to Jansz (1216b Pipers Brook Rd, Pipers Brook, (03) 6382 7066) – the mothership of sparkling wine and the state’s first producer to use the traditional méthode champenoise. After a tasting in their Wine Room, head down to the lake to feed the geese.

Humbug Reach (72 Nobelius Dr, Legana, (03) 6330 2875) is a tiny vineyard on the banks of the Tamar River owned by self-taught winemakers Sally and Paul McShane. The two confess that they’re “fussy with fruit” and the outcome of this unwavering approach is quality, aromatic wines that are consistently good. You will find their chardonnay and pinot noir on the winelists at Mud, MONA in Hobart and ARIA in Sydney, but a visit to the source (by appointment only) is well worth it for their infectious passion for ‘clean wine’ and a slice of Sally’s harvest cake alone.

Also on the outskirts of Launceston is Vélo (755 West Tamar Hwy, Legana, (03) 6330 3677) a boutique vineyard run by Micheal and Mary Wilson whose refined wines have been influenced by their time living in France and Italy. The vines are some of the oldest in the area and are behind the range of smashing

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Clockwise: Cradle Mountain Lodge; goaty Hill Wines’ Markus Maislinger; Ingleside Bakery; Truffles australis; tasting packs from ashgrove Cheese.

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cool-climate wines. The chic charcoal cellar-door offers a treasure trove of varieties from a fruit-driven Unwooded Chardonnay 2009 and standout sparkling named after their daughter Dominique, to an earthy, pepper-laced Cabernet Merlot 2009. You’ll be hard-pressed to find these bottles on the mainland and while you’re visiting, locals may drop by to pick up a bottle. There are plans for a cafe serving rustic platters and sharing plates, so watch this space.

In West Tamar you’ll find Goaty Hill Wines (530 Auburn Rd, Kayena, 1300 819 997), named for the craggy hill that keeps watch over the property. It’s run by Natasha and Tony Nieuwhof, Markus Maislinger and his wife Kristine Grant whose combined hands-on approach has led to a much celebrated riesling and pinot noir. This is the ideal spot to stop for lunch with a cheese platter on the terrace overlooking the sprawling vines.

the food trail to cradle mountainThe route to Cradle Mountain is lined with foodie pit stops and Ut Si Cafe (86 Main Rd, Perth, (03) 6398 1125) is one of those ambrosial discoveries you wish for on a roadtrip. Heading into Perth from the Midlands Highway, you pass through wide suburban streets before reaching the quaint white-washed church complete with kitchen garden that houses Ut Si (Latin for ‘as if’ after owner Colette Barnes’ partner threatened to name the cafe after himself when she couldn’t settle on one). Chef Julien Davies’ food is beautifully crafted from fresh, organic produce with inspired combinations such as warm roasted beetroot and cauliflower salad with currant-studded dressing, and pasture-raised lamb with leatherwood honey and rosemary.

Colette’s effervescent service warms the high-ceilinged space that’s homey and welcoming with communal tables, wonky candles and stacks of books and magazines. Colette bakes woodfired bread daily, then Julien slow roasts the Mount Gnomon Farm pork as the embers die for the popular pulled-pork sandwich. The house brew is earthy and rich from Launceston roaster Ritual Coffee and the perfect fuel for your drive with a slice of one of the luscious housemade cakes.

If you’re lucky enough to be in Evandale on Sunday, you’ll be able to stock up at the farmers’ market, but this sleepy town near Launceston airport still has some gems to offer any other day of the week. After you trawl through the antique shops, take a seat at Ingleside Bakery (4 Russell St, Evandale, (03) 6391 8682). Enjoy a cream tea under the tendrils of climbing roses in the courtyard or by the fire inside, then buy a pack of chocolate-flecked biscuits for the road.

Make Van Dieman Brewing (537 White Hills Rd, Evandale, (03) 6391 9035) your next stop for “brewtique” ales in the full colour spectrum from white to amber, plus an oatmeal stout, expertly made by brewer Will Tatchell.

Clockwise: Montana Falls in deloraine; deloraine deli; Colette Barnes prepares the bread dough at Ut si Cafe; housemade cakes at Ut si Cafe.

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Deloraine Deli (36 Emu Bay Rd, Deloraine (03) 6362 2127) is an edible gem offering well-priced local and international provisions to fill your picnic hamper. Pick up marinated olives, salami, pepper-studded pecorino, Dutch-spiced biscuits and housemade venison pies or dine-in on daily specials, which could include bangers on truffled mash, a ploughman’s lunch or chicken and port pâté bruschetta.

At salmon and ginseng farm 41° South Tasmania (323 Montana Rd, Deloraine, (03) 6362 4130) you can sample the meltingly tender hot-smoked salmon, salmon rillets and bracing ginseng-infused vodka, then head out to explore the ginseng nursery, beautiful wetlands and Montana Falls, which feed the salmon ponds. Owners Angelika and Ziggy Pyka will then take your order and deliver it anywhere in the country.

41° south Tasmania........................... 15alps & amici ...................................... 12ashgrove Cheese shop ...................... 14Black Cow Bistro .................................4Brisbane street Bistro .........................6Burger got soul ................................. 10Cafe Mondello......................................9Cocobean Chocolate ............................4Cradle Mountain Lodge ..................... 13delicacy ...............................................7deloraine deli .................................... 16Elaia ....................................................9Epic ......................................................5Fresh on Charles .................................7goaty Hill Wines ................................ 17 Hotel Charles  .................................... 11Humbug reach .................................. 18Ingleside Bakery ................................ 21Jansz ................................................. 19Mud Bar and restaurant .....................3Pinot shop ...........................................2stillwater .............................................1Tant Pour Tant .....................................8The Mill Providore ...............................1Truffles australis .............................. 15TwoFourTwo ........................................9Ut si Cafe ........................................... 20Van dieman Brewing ......................... 22 Vélo  ................................................... 18

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Tasmania is the birthplace of truffle cultivation in Australia and at Truffles Australis (844 Mole Creek Rd, Deloraine, (03) 6363 6194) you can sniff out this elusive black gold for yourself. In season, join the truffle hunt and marvel as dogs unearth the bulbous clusters for you to smell – their aroma could be anything from ‘beetroot’ to ‘kerosene’ or ‘smelly socks’. Tours are by appointment only, so call ahead.

When you see the painted cows on the side of the road, you’ve reached Ashgrove Cheese Shop (6173 Bass Hwy, Elizabeth Town, (03) 6368 1105). This one-stop dairy shop sells ice cream, their own creamy milk and a range of Tasmanian cheeses. See the cheesemaking in action through the glass panels that look into the dairy and try the specialty cheddars (wasabi-flavoured anyone?) and rustic fig and quince pastes before you buy.

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Explore World Heritage-listed Cradle Mountain National Park, then check in to Cradle Mountain Lodge (4038 Cradle Mountain Rd, Cradle Mountain, 1300 806 192, cradlemountainlodge.com.au, from $320 per double including breakfast) for the full alpine experience. Expect classic hearty breakfasts, roaring fires and cosy pine cabins. The lodge borders the park, so there are walking trails nearby for every level of fitness. Sign up for one of the guided walks or embark on the relatively flat Dove Lake circuit before unwinding with a massage, facial and outdoor hot tub with uninterrupted views over the park at Waldheim Alpine Spa before dinner at Highland Restaurant. d.Thanks to Tourism Tasmania for their assistance with this story. For more information on touring Tasmania, tel: 1300 655 145 or visit: discovertasmania.com.

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