the indoor gardener magazine volume 2—issue 2 (reissue)

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Volume 2 — Issue 2 www.indoorgardenermagazine.com ISSN: 1715-0949 – Bimonthly Plus: • Indoor Plant Classification: 5 - e Main Orchid Families • My Idea Of e Perfect Plant • International Flora Montreal 2006 • Gardening Philosophy: What Is “Natural”? What Is “Organic”? HYDROPONIC AND AEROPONIC GARDENING A Look At 15 Influential Systems Price: $5.95 September / October 2006 Subscribe and WIN See page 20 for details

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Page 1: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

Volume 2 — Issue 2www.indoorgardenermagazine.comISSN: 1715-0949 – Bimonthly

Plus:• Indoor Plant Classification: 5 - The Main Orchid Families• My Idea Of The Perfect Plant• International Flora Montreal 2006• Gardening Philosophy: What Is “Natural”? What Is “Organic”?

HYDROPONIC AND AEROPONIC GARDENING

A Look At 15 Influential Systems

Price: $5.95

September / October 2006

Subscribe and

WIN

See page 20 for details

Page 2: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)
Page 3: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)
Page 4: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

Volume 2 – Issue 2September / October 2006

Published by: Green Publications

Publisher: J.M.

Managing editor: Bruno [email protected]

Contributing editors: Helene Jutras, Jessy Caron, Fred Leduc

Art Director: Anna Kanaras

Editorial coordinator: Bruno Bredoux

Collaborators in this issue:

Kari Bayne, Bruno Bredoux, Jessy Caron, Stan Daimon, Jim Gall (Rotogro Garden), Hedi Green, Paul Henderson, Edward Jackson, Helene Jutras, T.K., R. LaBelle, Fred Leduc, M.M., Ted Marchildon (Omega Gardens), Josh Morell (Growing Crazy – Hooked On Hydroponics), Roger Raynal, Réjean (EcoSystem), P. Steph (Summum), William Sutherland, vieux bandit.

Sales & advertising: Stan [email protected]@indoorgardenermaga-zine.com

Translation/Copy editing:

Helene Jutras

Cover design: Anna Kanaras with photos taken by Ted Marchildon (Omega Gardens), MegaWatt, Jim Gall (Rotogro Garden), Bruno Bredoux (International Flora Montreal), Jessy Caron (Orchids) and EcoSystem.

Illustrations: Anna Kanaras & USDA

Administration: R. LaBelle

Information: [email protected]

THE INDOOR GARDENER MAGAZINEPostal Station Saint-MichelP.O. Box 183Montreal, QC, H2A 3L9, CANADATel.: (514) 728-8118 Fax: (514) 728-1840www.indoorgardenermagazine.comISSN: 1715-0949

© 2006, Green Publications, Montreal, Qc, CanadaArticles, iconographic representations and photographs contained in this magazine cannot be reproduced, in whole or in part, without the written consent of the Publisher.

Legal deposit: Second Quarter 2005. National Library of Canada. Bibliothèque nationale du Québec.

Printed in Canada by Transcontinental

Conversion TableLinear Measure (imperial to metric)1 inch 2.54 centimetres1 foot (=12 inches) 0.3048 metre 1 yard (=3 feet) 0.9144 metre

Linear Measure (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 millimetre 0.0394 inch 1 centimetre (=10 mm) 0.3937 inch 1 metre (=100 cm) 1.0936 yards

Volume (imperial to metric)Metric 1 (imperial) fl. oz. (=1/20 imperial pint) 28.41 ml 1 (US liquid) fl. oz. (=1/16 US pint) 29.57 ml 1 (imperial) pint (=20 fl. imperial oz.) 568.26 ml 1 (US liquid) pint (=16 fl. US oz.) 473.18 ml 1 (imperial) gallon (=4 quarts) 4.546 litres 1 (US liquid) gallon (=4 quarts) 3.785 litres

Volume (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 millilitre 0.002 (imperial) pint, 0.176 pint 1 litre (=1000 ml) 1.76 pints

Mass (imperial to metric)1 ounce (=16 drams) 28.35 grams 1 pound (=16 ounces) 0.45359237 kilogram 1 stone (=14 pounds) 6.35 kilograms

Mass (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 milligram 0.015 grain 1 kilogram (=1000 g) 2.205 pounds

Temperature To convert Fahrenheit to Celsius, subtract 32 degrees and divide by 1.8. To convert Celsius to Fahrenheit, multiply by 1.8 and add 32 degrees.

BC Plant’s product, which should have been described in the same column, is the

Monster Booster. Here is a brief description of it: “Monster Booster 0-53-33 is

a pH-controlled nutrient solution designed to effectively increase the size of the

flowers and fruit.” Our apologies to both companies.

Page 63: The text accompanying the photograph of the yellow suspension cable,

in the lower left of the page, did not print. Here is the entire text as it should have

appeared: PowerMaster Overhead Spring Balancers are specially designed to

free the operator from the weight of the hand tools. When properly balanced by

adjusting spring tension, the tools become almost weightless in the hands of the

operator, and can be moved up and down with very little effort. Characteristics:

rugged construction, contained main spring, self-lubrication bearing, quick

connecting and disconnecting of load, automatic drum lock arrangement,

external tension adjustment, swivel hook for any operating angle; useful for:

portable tools, welding guns, bag closers, general use. To reduce operator fatigue

and increase efficiency. To see videos of the spring balancers in action, visit

www.springbalancers.com (site in English, French and German). – B.S. See also our

Q&A section in this issue for a list of North American distributors.

Volume 1 – Issue 5: Contrary to the photo credit that appeared on page 46, none of

the photographs printed in the “Strawberry Fields Forever” article came from K and

S Greenhouse’s collection. Thank you.

Volume 1 – Issue 2, Page 77: The Tell 2 Friends Indoor Gardening & Hydroponics

company did not approve the use of its web site logo by our graphic artist in its ad

appearing in The Hydroponic World Of North America (4th line, 2nd column). We

apologize. The company has supplied its own artwork for the following issues.

ERRATA Volume 2 – Issue 1Page 4: Contrary to

what was written in

the erratum on ballasts,

the Supernova model is

manufactured by Brite-

Lite Group and not by

BioFloral.

Volume 1 – Issue 6

Page 26: In the article

“Plant Foods – Part 2”

under “The Plant Food

Products Available On

The Market Today”,

— second column,

fourth paragraph, – two

products were switched.

Monster Bloom 0-50-30

was attributed by mistake

to BC Plant Products,

while it is made and

distributed by Grotek®.

�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

Photos: Grotek

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Page 5: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

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6 Editorial There Is A Season, Turn Turn Turn… By Bruno Bredoux

8 introduction Nettle, Fern and Foxglove Are in Town! International Flora Montréal 2006: The Garden Passion A tour of the new horticulture, landscape and design industry exhibit in Montréal By Bruno Bredoux

13 industry Homage: Claude Poirier (1936 – 2006), cofounder of Systèmes rotatifs Bonzaï 360º By B.B.

14 notEs & nEws The Unknown History Of The Carrot By Helene Jutras

China: Super Corn Gives Super Yield …and other notes and news By B.B. and al.

18 tips & tricks: My Idea Of The Perfect Plant By Fred Leduc

20 draw For our subscribErs: An EcoSystem Is Waiting For You!

22 Hydroponics and aEroponics GardEninG A Look At 15 Influential Systems By W.S.

28 tEcHniquEs Supercharge Your Ecosystem Naturally: 5 Elements For Good Gardening By Réjean

29 GallEry The Omega Gardens In Pictures By Ted Marchildon

36 GallEry The Rotogro Garden In Pictures By Jim Gall

38 tHE wilt prEvEntion ExpErimEnt After adapting a new technique of cloning, our gardener discovered that the plants were more prone to wilting. He decided to try two of the more popular wilt prevention products available. Here are the results! By Josh Morell

40 cHoosinG a sitE to transplant your plants outdoors – part 2 The second part of our tips for transplanting your crops outdoors By Paul Henderson

Protecting Your Outdoor Crops And Flower Arrangements By B.B., H.J., W.S. & P.H.

46 indoor plant classiFication 5 – The Main Orchid Families The fifth instalment in our series about indoor plants and their care By Jessy Caron

50 plant pHysioloGy Glucids: An Explanation By Roger Raynal

52 GardEninG pHilosopHy What Is “Natural”? What Is “Organic”? How to determine what is natural and what is organic – the beginning of an explanation. By Bruno Bredoux

55 tHE Hydroponic world oF nortH amErica

60 sHoppinG: A Selection Of New Products That Caught Our Attention For This Fall By B.B., Kari Bayne, Jessy Caron, T.K., M.M., W.S. & P. Steph

64 q & a Questions keep pouring in. We answer the most relevant ones! By Edward Jackson, B.B. & H.G.

volumE 2 — issuE 2 / sEptEmbEr — octobEr 2006

46

188

52

Page 6: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

Photos: Bruno Bredoux & Fast Cool Cars

EDITORIAL

The 20th century allowed mankind to elevate its habitat in

the air to gain space on build-able land with an exponential

value and also simply to better spread the dense population

of large cities. The trend’s symbol remains the sky-scraper,

always higher, always more creative, glass towers that seem

so frail and yet are so strong! No imaginable infernal tower

has ever stopped the construction of new towers, each

defying the laws of physics.

Another symbol of the 20th century, the car, has had another

destiny. After the SUV and Hummer craze, the trend has

swung back towards compact, smaller vehicles that guzzle

less gas but are extremely well designed to maximize interior

space. When my North-American friends used to travel to

Europe, they would always have their picture taken next to a

Smart, the symbol, according to them, of vehicular ridicule.

Since the Smart was launched in Canada, two years ago, the

same friends have developed an undying enthusiasm for the

vehicle’s interior spaciousness.

Nothing is trendier than a Smart, a Mini-Cooper or a New

Beetle. Indeed advertisers are ready to pay you, if you own

such a vehicle, to have you roll in an advertising banner –

your trendy car, apparently, is perfect to carry their colourful

advertising messages, and they are always eager to discover

new supports for their ads. Why am I going on about such

clichés from the 20th century? Simply because with rotating

gardens, aeroponic pipeline systems, towers and hydroponic

carousels, we may hold the equivalent trend that will define

the new century.

I was recently stunned by the design of a new Canadian

rotating garden. H2O Dynamic’s B-Pod’s design is just as

beautiful as a Smart, if not

more so. With its metallic

yellow support hoops

– a complete circle

for the wheel

support and a half-

circle embedded in

the first as feet,

it is like a huge

smiley face with

a HPS central lamp

acting as a Cyclops’ eye! Unfortunately I cannot yet print

a picture of this funky jewel here, but visit the website (in

construction) www.h2odynamic.com: the first prototype is

shown on the home page.

Just like sky-scrapers and

tiny cars, hydroponic

systems specifically

designed for small

indoor spaces

also have their

nay-sayers. Some,

however, are already

dreaming awake, and

their utopian vision will

certainly become reality one day.

Thus Ted Marchildon, from Omega Rotating Gardens, sees

the streets of future suburbia transformed into hydroponic

farms under guerrilla-style tarps, cultivation wheels stacked

up with the famous carousels, that would be able to feed

entire neighbourhoods in large cities. He has even calculated

that we could feed three people with one linear foot of

road with such a garden! And downtown, he is thinking of

stacking up the systems to create vertical gardens. Science-

fiction?

Not really. Columbia University’s Environmental Health

Science and Dr. Dickson Despommier are already working

on a vertical farm project (www.verticalfarm.com), a

scientific approach that aims to redefine agriculture for the

21st century and after… The challenge? In 2050, 80% of

the world’s population will be piled up in urban centres,

while mankind already uses 80% of all fertile lands currently

available for agriculture. Once the land runs out, we will

have to find new ways to feed the world. Now is the time to

start making the 21st century the century of hydroponics –

whether complex or simplified. Every one of us, humankind

as a whole, will benefit!

Bruno Bredoux

The Indoor Gardener Magazine

August 2006

There Is A Season, Turn Turn Turn…

Will the 21st

century take the

hydroponic leap?

Page 7: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)
Page 8: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

Photos: vieux bandit & Bruno Bredoux

INTRODUCTION

Ironically, at the beginning of the path of the extremely sophisticated International Flora Montréal

2006 — the Garden Passion, display number 3 is called “Native Canadian Plants”. With the

collaboration of Pépinière rustique, this exhibit offers a flourishing of common native plants that

grow anywhere in Canadian thickets, marshes and vacant lots. Urtica dioica (nettle), Athyrium filix-

femina (lady fern) and Digitalis purpurea (purple foxglove) are joining the throngs of trendy plants in

this first edition of the exhibit which is replacing the famous Mosaïcultures in Montréal’s old port’s

Parc des Écluses. The Official Guide indeed tells us it is “a strong trend”. We couldn’t agree more.

We are simply worried because the creator of plot 19, “Emerald Enchantment”, apparently did not

inform herself much about the preferred location for fern before transplanting these poor forest plants in

the bright open sun instead of in a shady humid corner. They will probably not last as long as the exhibit!

That is not the only paradox to be found in this exhibit that multiplies the points of view without offering

a coherent whole. Avant-garde and the worst of kitsch go hand in hand.

Nettle, FerN aNd Foxglove are iN towN!InternatIonal Flora Montreal 2006By BruNo Bredoux

Solamente Una Vida

SOGO Garden“I Spy” Garden

Between Earth and Sky

Page 9: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

�VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2 THE INDOOR GARDENER

Phot

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Bru

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uxINTRODUCTION

During the press conference held on June 15th,

Luce Daigneault, General Director of the Fédération

interdisciplinaire de l’horticulture ornementale du Québec

(FIHOQ), an organisation rassembling nearly 5,000 industry

people, said right off that “trends are just like ice cream

flavours. It’s all a matter of taste and anything goes.” That

is true, but the plants included in the creations of artists,

outdoor landscaping specialists and landscaping architects

must still be viable outside their natural habitat. The visitor

is happy to discover lush, chaotic or calculated ensembles

that offer contrast with the urban flowerbeds made up of

rows of French marigolds alternating with rows of scarlet

sage that we had been offered for decades. A partnership

with the Association des architectes paysagistes du Québec

(AAPQ) indeed ensures, as its President, Marie-Claude

Robert, indicated, “renewal, since Flora, thought-out three

years ago, presents gardens done by young designers”.

According to her, Flora is none other than “a garden of

gardens, and taking care of the landscape is taking care

of the passion.” She believes that the passion for gardens

stems from the tiny plot that a person starts to cultivate:

“residential gardens open consciousness to large scale

gardening.” Another trend of Flora Montréal is also, clearly,

sustainable development and design. According to Mrs.

Robert, the 17 creations presented here by a few of the

400 AAPQ members brightly honour the choice made by

UNESCO’s Global Alliance for Cultural Diversity, which has

designated Montréal as “UNESCO City of Design” as part of

the Creative Cities Network, on May 17, 2006.

It is through a stroll that the visitor is invited to let him

or herself be amazed by a succession of gardens and of

new expressions, offered by the cream of the profession

represented by 41 international creators invited to Montréal.

The wanderer strolls through the itinerary, through eight

types of gardens: city gardens, nature gardens, slope

gardens, nurturing gardens, rooftop gardens, avant-garde

gardens, streetside gardens and balcony gardens. In each

area, the creations were designed, according to Christine

Vaillancourt, General Director of the Association des

paysagistes professionnels du Québec (APPQ), “to push

back the limits of landscaping. Those creations offer links

between nature and quality of life. […] With Flora Montreal,

landscaping confirms its status as an art form.” Gilles Lemieux,

formerly site coordinator of the Canadian Tulip Festival and

a humorous man (“I’ve gone from one flower to an entire

garden!”) adds that “Flora is an opportunity to promote

all kind of gardens […] and a showcase for the industry.” It

is him who answers the unspoken question of the curious

visitor about the on-site presence of a booth maintained by

the Association des chiropracticiens du Québec, a booth that

could seem out of place in this context: “Chiros are here to

explain how to work in the garden without ending up in the

clinic on Monday morning.” Phew! In truth, to reproduce

most of the gardens presented here in your backyard, all

your physical capacities will be required! You can also visit

the conference hall, where for 12 weeks, conferences will

be offered on 12 different themes related to gardening and

the profession. Perhaps you will come out with elaborate

professional notions.

One of the major themes of the exhibit remains, through

each of the eight types of gardens displayed, that of the

Solamente Una Vida

Solamente Una Vida

Page 10: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

10THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

Photos: vieux bandit & Bruno Bredoux

INTRODUCTION

integration of the residential garden within

the urban landscape. As we are reminded

by Raquel Peñalosa, Artistic Director

and Head of product development

for International Flora Montréal,

“Each garden is a contribution to

the city, as the three spiral staircases

are a Montreal landmark. […][My]

garden is also for the people who pass

in front of my house, too.” One of the

most contemporary aspects of this type of

urban garden, which has been richly developed

within the exhibit, is that of rooftop gardens. Rooftop

gardening is at the avant-garde of urban landscaping

and offers a strong environmentalist dimension. Rooftop

gardens have an impact on the quality of the air within a

city. Mrs. Peñalosa insists: “Rooftop gardening could also

be a new floating landscape, a new way of looking at a

city. […] It also promotes sustainable design, like designer

Nathalie Bédard does when she recoups rain water for a

residential garden.” In the presentation of her “If Water”

garden, Nathalie Bédard point out that “If water and its

infinite cycle, basic element of all gardens, would be used

rightly the results would be peaceful and harmonious living

spaces as elegant as ecologically sustainable.” Finally, Mrs.

Peñalosa is happy to report

that the visitor is under no

outside influence: “There is

no commercial information

within the garden, in

order to maintain the real

experience of strolling

through a garden. […] The

promenade takes you from

city gardens to country

garden, from discovering

inclined garden to

exploring the slopes.”

Few creators were present

during our visit. We did,

however, glimpse at Lizzie

Taylor, a British designer,

who was parading behind

a laptop computer in the

metallic egg installed

in the center of her

“SOGO Garden (small

office garden office)”.

Mrs. Taylor’s idea is

to bring telecommuting to the backyard with

this brushed steel case containing a swivel

chair, a desk for the laptop and a seat

for visitors, allowing for work meetings

in the middle of a greenery ocean. The

association of the metallic structure and

the luxuriant garden offers a shortcut

between the office tower and the

flowerbeds of downtown, all in one level.

Australian Jack Merlo, for his part, offers

us “Cocoon”, an outdoor cocooning garden

where rounded shapes of a very 1960’s structure

(think of all the era’s plastic objects) shelter a garden table,

chairs, a hammock and a fireplace, gently preparing us for a

descent into a blue cool pool. The cocoon, with the organic

curves of its exterior structure, is both a refuge (from the

city, from the rain…) and a social locale. In the Québec firm

Catalyse Urbaine’s “Between Earth and Sky”, the cocoon

impression comes from living walls, the first such experiment

by Ontario company ELT Easy Green, which sponsors the

creation. Greg Garner, President of ELT, and Justin Lefebvre,

Marketing Director, were on the site to explain to us how,

from developing rooftop gardens, they came to develop

these living walls, veritable weavings of matter and textures,

where various plants such as basil, beans and sweet peas

grow vertically by taking root in small containers slightly

Foxglove (Emerald Enchantment)

Christine Vaillantcourt, APPQ General Director

Gilles Lemieux, Site Coordinatior,

Flora Team

Luce Daigneault, FIHOQ General Director

Marie-Claude Robert, AAPQ President

Michel Gauthier, Executive Director,

Flora Team

Raquel Peñalosa, Artistic Dirrector and Head of Product Development,

Flora Team

iNterNatioNal Flora MoNtréal 2006 press coNFereNce speakers, JuNe 15th.

Hydrotech Rooftop Gardens Showcase

Page 11: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)
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12THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

Photos: vieux bandit & Bruno Bredoux

INTRODUCTION

angled towards the sky and held by a vertical

metallic structure. With many rooftop

garden projects in Toronto and Montreal,

ALT Easy Green is now moving towards the

United States, where three of its projects

are under way.

Near the river, we found peace in the

“Solamente una vida” garden created

by StuartWebsterDesign and done by

DaccordWebsterDesign from Montréal.

Landscaping architect Pierre Bilodeau

was on site to help us discover this space

dedicated to “relaxation, pleasure and

perfect to meet people.” Pierre and his

brother Christian created screens, wood

structures with elaborate grid designs that

create boundaries and mark the spaces

of the garden which opens onto the river

and on other intimate discoveries such as a

water basin with three deck chairs waiting

for us to relax after a tiring walk through the

city. There we find in a corner our Urtica dioica, the now-

trendy nettle. A little further, Marie-Ève Lussier’s “Emerald

Enchantment” also uses, on the ruins of a chapel (or is it

Cinderella’s castle?) with sumptuous stained glass, the most

rustic plants in the exhibit: many varieties of foxglove, ferns

and nettles. Spread between the sunlit and the shady garden,

the native plants seem to grow in an abandoned garden,

where time and nature took back their rights on a spot that

was once cultivated and cared for. Finally, with the help of

Hydrotech, we discovered roof covering systems that, with

their alveolate design, allow the recuperation of rain water

to feed a rooftop garden. The cut of the successive layers,

with various types of more or less corrugated membranes

used to create the green roofs, are set up in two displays

the visitor can admire, sitting on a magnificent bench made

with this same water-recuperating material. Surprise: it is

very comfortable!

And if all this bores you, you can take refuge at the Flora

Café, where you will be served the delicious Flora cocktail

in a martini glass: mango, strawberry, Grand Marnier and

crushed ice. Yum!

International Flora Montréal 2006 is on until October 9th,

2006. www.floramontreal.ca

Artists and companies listed:Lizzie Taylor Garden Design: www.designing-gardens.co.uk

Jack Merlo Design: www.jackmerlodesign.com

ELT Easy Green: www.eltgreenroofs.com

StuartWebsterDesign: www.swdla.com

DaccordWebsterDesign: www.daccordwebsterdesign.com

Nathalie Bédard / Images & Paysages: [email protected]

Catalyse Urbaine: www.catalyseurbaine.com

Marie-Ève Lussier / Mel Design: www.meldesign.ca

Hydrotech: www.hydrotechmembrane.ca

INDUSTRY

Top & Right: Cocoon by Jack Merlo

Bottom: vieux bandit, our photographer, in the middle of the Blue Stick Garden, by Claude Cormier

Page 13: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

Phot

os: B

onza

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dens

INDUSTRY

Claude Poirier, who launched the rotating gardens Bonzaï 360º, died on June

18th, at the Valleyfield (Qc) hospital after an infarction linked to an aneurysm.

He had been born on December 28th, 1936 and after a well-filled

professional horticultural career, his passion for indoor gardening

took over during his retirement. From then on, he used well the

days that this new period in his life offered. For Christmas 2002,

inspired by technology developed by NASA, he made a first

prototype of what was to become the Bonzaï rotating garden. To

make sure everything worked properly, he demonstrated the system in his own

living room in front of his wife, Monique Blondeau. Enthused by her husband’s

project, she tied a Christmas bell to the wheel, and its happy ringing certified that

the prototype worked well.

The year 2003 marked the true beginning of the business, which is now well

established in the North-American hydroponics landscape.

Claude Poirier first developed the model that can contain

240 plants. At first, the rotating garden models were archaic

and made of rough hardened steel. With Claude Poirier’s

experience and his increasing interest for lighter, more flexible

materials, the wheels have come to be made of aluminium.

Due to demand for smaller models, Claude then launched

the simplified model, designed to cultivate 120 plants. It was

a great success. The last model to be designed is that holding

360 plants. The demand is now great for this model and the company builds

about one hundred units per year, following grouped orders of 5 to 15 models

at a time.

The Bonzaï rotating garden offers an optimal light diffusion on 360º, which

makes the most of every available lumen. The inside cylinder allows the gardener

to cultivate a surface 3.14 times larger than the surface of the cylinder if it was

unrolled on the ground. What’s more, the plants are perpendicular to the light

source, which is the best possible position of the plants around the light, both for

distance and orientation. The system is based on the optimization of geotropism

to better spread the growth auxins within the plant. The effect produced on the

plant by the system’s 360º rotation is called orbitropism. Innovation is still the

company’s priority and its technicians pay attention to the technology’s evolution.

A new Bonzaï rotating garden model is now being designed that will contain a

glass tube with only one light bulb, which will allow the light to mode horizontally

within the system.

The Indoor Gardener’s team and I wish to offer our sincere condolences to Mrs.

Monique Blondeau, Claude Poirier’s widow, and to Mr. Jean-Pierre Morin, his

partner. We also want to thank them for the time they spent talking with us for

the writing of this note.

B.B.

(see also: www.4hydroponics.com/hydroponics/bonzai.asp)

Homage:

Claude Poirier (1936 – 2006) cofounder of Systèmes rotatifs Bonzaï 360º

Page 14: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

1�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

Photos: D.R

.NOTES & NEWS

Ask any toddler what color is a carrot and he will happily

exclaim “Orange!” Now turn on the time machine, and

ask a toddler in ancient Egypt or, 2000 years ago, in what

is now Afghanistan. The ancient toddlers will answer:

“White! Purple! Yellow!

Green! Black!” Yet each

toddler is correct. Our

beautiful Daucus carota

(from the Celtic word for

“red in color” and the

Greek word for “to burn”),

our common orange root

vegetable, has only been

orange since the 1600’s!

5000 years ago, and most

likely for thousand of years before, the wild carrot was used

in Middle Asia as a medicinal plant – and its roots were most

often white or purple. The root,

leaves and seeds of the carrot

have long been used as a diuretic,

an antiseptic and a stimulant. In

the 10th century, purple carrots

were cultivated in Afghanistan,

Pakistan and northern Iran, and

purple, white and yellow carrots

were imported to be grown in

Southern Europe by the 14th

century. 2800 years ago, the

Egyptians used carrot leaves as

a culinary herb, and when the

Roman Empire expanded, carrots

followed it – and other vegetables

and herbs – as far as Britain.

So how did the orange carrot,

filled with beta-carotene, come

to be? The story goes that

it was developed by Dutch

horticulturists, who crossed different colours of carrots

to get the orange carrot – as an emblem of the House of

Orange and the struggle for Dutch independence. In the

16th century, the Dutch territories were ruled by Spain, and

this control led to the 1586-1648 Eighty Years’ War, which

ended with Dutch Independence. The orange carrot thus

developed contains four times the amount of beta-carotene

as its predecessors.

This romantic story is somewhat questioned by historians,

who believe that the orange colour was developed simply

because the purple carrot gave soups and dishes an

unappetizing brownish colour. Dutch paintings from the

16th century, interestingly enough, display long purple and

yellow carrots – and, in later years, orange and almost every

colour in between. It was soon

found that cows fed carrots gave

richer milk and more golden-

coloured butter.

By the 1700’s, Holland was

the leading carrot breeding

country, and all modern orange

carrot varieties are derived from

the four varieties that existed

then: Early Half Long, Late Half

Long, Scarlet Horn, and Long

Orange. The modern carrot

was further helped by French

botanist Vilmorin-Andrieux, who

produced garden biennial types

of carrots with a fleshy root.

The purple carrot, containing

purple-red pigments called

anthocyanins, is back in some

The Unknown History Of The Carrot

By Helene Jutras

Page 15: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

Phot

os: D

.R.

NOTES & NEWS

supermarkets – some say it is a new colour for the carrot,

but now you know better! Many companies now offer

seeds for you to grow your own white, yellow, purple or red

carrots, each with their own specific health benefits. The

“regular” orange carrots growing in your garden, however,

could spontaneously become purple and change texture if

their shoulder is above ground and exposed to the sun.

Page 16: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

1�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

Photos: Bruno Bredoux & D

.R.

NOTES & NEWS

China: Super Corn Gives Super Yield

Chinese researchers have recently produced new

corn species, with their indicators approaching that

of the so–called “super corn”. Zhao Jiuran, Director

of the Corn Research Center, a part of the Beijing Academy

of Agriculture and Forestry told reporters that the center

has screened out four hybrid corn combinations from some

10 thousands hybrids. The selected

combinations have registered a

yield exceeding 900 kg, very close

to the expected yield of 1,000 kg/

mu (1 mu = 0.0667 ha.) for a super

corn. Their other major indicators,

including quality, resistance, seeding

capability, are also approaching that

of a super corn.

Under the project initiated by the Beijing Municipality for

super corn innovations and establishing a standard corn

DNA fingerprint database, China

will augment and create new corn

species, using extensive fine quality

corn species both from home and

abroad, in an attempt to screen out

real super corn species.

Source: Newsletter of the Ministry of Science and Technology,

People’s Republic of China, issue #392.

Russia: The Largest Corn Species Collection In The World

The Komarov botanical institute’s seed bank, in St. Petersburg,

linked to Moscow’s Science Academy’s Botanical Garden,

and the third largest seed bank in the world, says it has,

through the years, accumulated the

largest collection of seeds of the various

international corn species (including

seeds of species that have vanished

since the collection was started in the

1950’s). Approximately 400 original

species of corn are still cultivated

(far behind the potato with its 4,000

species), as well as close to 10,000 hybrids. Corn is also the

plant whose number of strains keeps on increasing with the

arrival of genetically modified strains (see above).

The Russians thus are engaged

in a race to find and preserve

the rarest ancestral corn

varieties that some Central

and South American tribes

still cultivate but that are near

extinction. We must note here

that the Komarov seed bank has always specialized in native

cultivated plants. It, however, is facing difficulties of its own:

reduced budget, experimental

freezing methods, antiquated

locale, etc.

– B.B. (as per Libération)

Southern Africa: OPV Corn Strains Against Poverty And FamineNew OPV (open pollination variety) corn strains have been

developed by the researchers of the Swiss Agency for

Development and Cooperation, in collaboration with the

New Seed Initiative for Maize in Southern Africa (NSIMA)

project and Mexico’s CIMMYT (Centro internacional de

mejoramiento de maiz y trigo). The hybrid varieties kept at

the CIMMYT have allowed researchers to obtain new corn

strains that are drought-resistant and offer a better yield

that traditional species – even in arid or infertile soil.

The performances of the new strains (30 to 40 new strains

each year) are directly tested in the field by southern Africa

farmers. The OPV varieties were chosen because, when

compared to traditional or hybrid strains, they can be stored

and re-sown each year with no loss of characteristics or

performance. With hybrid and traditional varieties, farmers

needed to buy new seeds each year because the stored

seeds did not give a yield approaching that of the first year.

Nine to 12 millions hectares of corn are cultivated for

food in southern Africa. The NSIMA project only covers

approximately one million hectares of corn-cultivated land

since 1996, when it started. The area’s food security largely

depends on the expansion and success of this project.

Source: www.sdc.admin.ch/index.php

– B.B.

Page 17: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

17VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2 THE INDOOR GARDENER

Phot

os: B

runo

Bre

doux

, Sub

Pho

to P

ublic

& V

IPNOTES & NEWS

Iraq: Destruction Of A Priceless Seed Bank

Washington wanted to sow “the seeds of democracy” in

Iraq by launching its military offensive in 2003. In reality,

the Iraqi seed treasure did not survive! For years, Iraqis had

collected and referenced samples from all their precious

native strains in a national seed bank located – how ironic

– in Abu Ghraib, the town sadly famous for its prison and

the tortures there inflicted on prisoners by soldiers in 2004.

After the site was occupied and bombarded, the priceless

seed bank has vanished.

Source: www.horizons-et-debats.ch/actuel/32_12.htm

Norway: Plants Get Their Own NoahA Norwegian project intends to create a bunker in the

Svalbard Islands, in the Arctic, where seeds of all known

plants will be stored, in the hope of preserving them should

an international catastrophe occur. Thus preserved, the

seeds may keep their genetic properties for millennia.

– B.B., as per A.P.

Alternative Medicine: Burdock For All!

Burdock (Arctium lappa), commonly called “Love Leaves”,

is a very vigorous plant that grows on unused lands and

can reach up to 0.5 to 2 meters in height; its roots are

most commonly used. The despised burdock, in fact, treats

many ills. Its infused roots

cure the body of impurities.

As a fresh leaves poultice,

it treats dermatological

problems such as acne,

furuncles, abscesses, eczema

or psoriasis. It also contains

a hypoglycaemic substance

that helps to decrease the

blood sugar levels in case of

diabetes.

Burdock is also recommended to appease gout, bladder

lithiasis, rheumatisms, excessive sweating and measles.

Finally, according to the AFEAS Mauricie, burdock flowers in

an infusion are excellent against heart failure.

Dosage:

Infusion: 30 grams of roots

for 1/2 litre of water. Boil for

3 minutes, allow to steep

for 10 minutes.

Decoction: boil 10 grams

of roots in 750 ml of water,

allow it to reduce by one

third, filter; drink 250 ml

of tepid liquid before each

meal.

For a dry flower infusion, throw in a handful of flowers per

pint of water, steep for 20 minutes, allow to cool and filter;

drink cold.

Sources: www.lepetitherboriste.net and La nature à votre service,

AFEAS Mauricie.

St.Laurence River: Water Quality Improving

Twenty years ago it was estimated that the St.Laurence

River was slowly dying. Since the 1980’s, however, the

water quality has greatly improved. According to Luc

Bergeron of the Ville-Marie ZIP (Priority Intervention Zone),

“Brown water that is not clear like that of a pool does not

mean it is polluted”. Of 115 sample stations in 2005, 72

received a water quality reading that was sufficient to allow

swimming. The bacteriologic quality of the shore water is

thus considered good and without danger.

Source: Métro

– B.B.

Page 18: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

1�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

Photos: Fred LeducTIPS & TRICKS

Unlike most gardeners, I treat

my house plants roughly;

I guess I treat all my

plants roughly. I want

plants that are tough

and not too needy. My

idea of the perfect plant

is a plant that you can

forget about for months and

when you come back to it, it looks

like you have been giving it constant loving care. When it’s

time to make more plants, I want a plant off of which you

can break a piece, throw it on the ground, step on it, and

it will spring to life. It also needs

to be tough enough to handle all

kinds of weather — hot, cold, wet,

dry, whatever comes along — and

bugs have to hate it. That sounds

like a tall order, but I’ve found a whole group of plants that

are perfect for me: cacti.

There are about 8,000 different cacti and

they come in every shape and size. The

unique forms that some cacti take are quite

spectacular. Most often, cacti grow so

slowly that they will look the same for years.

This makes it easy to plan a permanent

display. There are plenty of cacti that grow

at reasonable rates and there are some cacti

that can grow 30 centimetres in one year!

There are also some cacti that are very fragile

and will not tolerate much abuse.

It’s easy to grow a great looking cactus

that makes you look like a great gardener. Most cacti take

so little care that I have to write a note on the

calendar to remind myself when to feed

them. The biggest problem with cacti is

over-watering. I do not water my cacti

from December to March and if any die,

I say “oh well, that one was not for me”.

After years of this process, I have a collection

of plants that take care of themselves and make

me look like a super gardener!

Here are some of the plants that made it on to

my list of tough plants:

The Hedgehog Cactus

(Echinocereus adustus)

is my first choice for

propagation. It produces

many pups or offshoots.

You can often purchase

a mature hedgehog

cactus in a 10 to 15

centimetre pot that can

have more than 40 pups

for less than $20.

To make the new plants,

simply break off the pups

and let the wound heal in direct sunlight for two to three

days. You can plant them any time after that in a standard

cactus soil mix or you can stand them up all together in

an empty pot and

over the next four

to six weeks they

will begin to develop

roots. You can

also delay planting for up to six months. If you’re not

going to plant them within three weeks of harvesting

them, however, they should be kept in a

shady location.

This is an excellent plant for the novice. For

a teacher, it can make an interesting and

inexpensive class project, easily producing 25

to 50 plants in a small area.

Joseph’s Coat Cactus (Opuntia monacantha

‘Variegata’) is my personal choice for the

strange and unique forms that it takes. I have

several that are just so bizarre looking. You can

see pink, yellow and green on one branch.

To make new plants, cut off a branch, let the

My Idea Of The

PerfecT PlanT

By fred leduc

Echinocereus adustus (Hedgehog Cactus)

There are about 8,000 different cacti and they come in every shape and size.

Joseph’s Coat

Page 19: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

Phot

os: F

red

Ledu

cTIPS & TRICKS

wound heal in the sun for a few days and then plant it in

standard cactus soil mix.

For a phenomenal growth rate, no

cacti can beat the Peruvian Fence

Post, also known as Peruvian Torch

(Trichocereus Peruvianus). It often

grows more than 30 centimetres

a year. My personal best was 45

centimetres of growth in one season.

A fully mature Peruvian Fence Post

can be six metres tall.

A close second is the San Pedro Cactus

(Trichocereus Panchanoi), often

growing close to 30 centimetres a

year. What makes this cactus special

is that it has very small, finger-friendly

spines.

Both of these plants are an excellent

choice for grafting stock, often

accelerating the growth of much

slower varieties, increasing the growth

rate by a factor of ten. Making new plants from them is

done the same as for the previous plants. Cut off a piece, let

the wound heal and plant it.

All the plants I have mentioned here are as tough as nails.

They can all take the cold, right down to 0°C, and most

Trichocereus can take as low as -5°C. All of these plants can

be made dormant and stored at 5°C with no light and no

water for at least three months. When storing plants, it is

critical to maintain a temperature between 3 and 5°C.

care, lIghT Strong light is essential for growing cacti. It doesn’t have to

be direct sunlight, but four hours a day of strong light is a

minimum.

care, feedIng and WaTerIng The best growth is going to happen with regular feeding

and watering during the growing season. Only water your

cactus when the top quarter of the flower pot is dry; if your

pot is 10 centimetres tall, you have wait for the first 2.5

centimetres of the dirt to dry out before you can water.

Regular feeding with 15/30/15 water-soluble fertilizer at

haft strength every two weeks during the growing season

will give you very good results.

If you are someone that has to be doing something in

your garden all the time, then these plants are not for you

and you should try orchids or something else, but if like

most of us, you are always running out of time, cacti are

the answer!

Echinocereus adustus (Hedgehog Cactus)

San Pedro Cactus

Close-up of Joseph’s Coat

Joseph’s Coat and San Pedro Cactus

Page 20: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

PARTICIPATE IN OUR DRAW FOR SUSCRIBERS

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Value: $3495.00

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Get a chance to win an Ecosystem simply by subscribing to the magazine

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Page 21: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

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For the love of indoor gardening!Gardening indoors is not only providing motherly love for a few cacti in the living room:

it also includes growing tomatoes, strawberries and lettuce in industrial quantities.Such is the cornerstone of the magazine The Indoor Gardener, to cover the expectations

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ISSUE 1 - APRIL 2005ISSUE 2 - AUGUST 2005ISSUE 3 - OCTOBER 2005VOL.2 Issue 1 - JULY 2006

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VOL.2 Issue 2 - SEPTEMBER 2006

Page 22: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

22THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

Photos: GP Technology, Sunleaves, M

egaEatt, Ecosystem

, W.S. &

D.R

.INDUSTRY

The ebb & flow tables have been designed to remove nutrient

solution from the growing medium by creating slanted groves

to pull away the water from the growing medium. Water sits

on flat surfaces, leaving a puddle for the roots to sit in.

Having the drain groove on a slope actually pulls the water

away from the growing medium, giving more oxygen to the

root system.

Protect the roots from light: light and roots do not belong together.

By blocking out light, humidity will be considerably higher at the

root zone. Because roots do not dry out, they can expand further

in their search for plant food. More roots mean bigger, healthier

plants. It is a great system for aeroponics. Just drill holes in the top

plate to insert misting lines. It can also be used for nutrient

film technique (NFT): just slope the table and apply water

from one end of the table, gathering water at the other

end of the ebb table.

Each complete system comes with an ebb & flow table, a

drain fitting, a fill fitting, tubing, a pump, a reservoir and growing

medium. You may also need a bigger reservoir to hold larger

volumes of water (models are available for 160 litres or 240 litres of

water).

b) The AquATop from megAwATT

Aquatop is a grow table manufactured in Québec

by MegaWatt Hydro. There are three different

models available on the retail market: the smallest one

with a table size of 3’ x 6’, then a table size of 4’

x 4’ by 6’’ (30 holes) and the biggest one with a

table size of 4’ x 8’ (41’’ x 88’’ inside – 64 holes). It

also comes with a jet type mister in the complete

kit (4’ x 4’ complete kit or “kit 30” and 4’ x 8’

complete kit or “kit 64”).

c) The ecoSySTem

See page 28 for more details on this system (and page

20 to see how to get a chance to win an EcoSystem!).

Hydroponics and aeroponics GardeninG

By W.S.

I – HydroponIc GardenInG

In four words, what is hydroponics? Water working for you! Hydroponic growing consists of keeping the root system moist

with an enriched water solution holding the necessary mineral elements essential for plant growth.

This can be done with or without a growing medium. If you use a growing medium, the growing

medium should be inert and pH neutral so that it cannot interfere with the mineral elements being

delivered to the plants. If you change the nutrient solution on a regular cycle, the growth rate and yield

will normally be higher when gardening with hydroponics.

With hydroponics, a new nutrient solution is constantly being delivered to the

growing medium, leaching away the old nutrient solution and bringing new mineral

elements to the roots. The more frequently the nutrient is changed, the healthier the

growth will be. Once the solution gets in contact with the root system, the mineral

elements that have been dissolved into the water begin to be absorbed. When you

completely remove the old nutrient solution and make a fresh solution, you will

see faster growth. When using the same nutrient solution over time, with each passing day you will

notice a slowing down of the growth. Change the nutrient solution again and the speed at which

the garden grows is faster. After three or four days, you can see the slowing down of your

garden. The longest that a nutrient solution should be given to a plant is about four days.

When you top up a nutrient solution, always use plain pH adjusted water. Never use nutrient

solution to top up the reservoir, even if it is diluted. By changing the nutrient solution often,

we have the opportunity to grow our plants closer together. It also gives us healthier, larger

plants and flower clusters with faster growth, making much better use of our growing facility.

HydroponIc SyStemS A) ebb And flow (flood & drAin) TrAyS

Sunleaves Garden of Ease

Page 23: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

Phot

os: E

urop

lant

, Bon

zaï,

Roto

gro,

O

meg

a G

arde

n &

D.R

.INDUSTRY

d) The coliSeum

Why grow on flat land, when you can make better use of space

with this garden, the Coliseum? The Coliseum makes the

best use of light. You need no reflectors here since the

light is trapped in the Coliseum. The Coliseum is built

round; there is no far corner that needs extra light. All the

plants get the same amount of light.

Each unit is 104 centimetres high and 170 centimetres

across five levels. Or get the 40 centimetres two-level

Coliseum. The Coliseum is plumbed and ready to

use; just add the growing medium. The Coliseum

has special drain tubing so that when you stack the

systems on top of one another, the nutrient solution

delivered to the top unit does not contaminate the

bottom unit. Fill with a mixture of 50% vermiculite

and 50% perlite (not included). Each section of the

Coliseum should be illuminated with a 1000 watt light,

within an air–cooled glass tube. Feed your plants twice

a day for five minutes and only use the nutrient solution

once, draining the excess to waste. Each section of the

Coliseum comes plumbed with up to 75 growing

spots to plug in your 7.6 cm NFT pots. All holes

will be predrilled.

The Coliseum is available in two different models

and parts: five level Coliseum (H 104 cm X 170 cm)

or two-level Coliseum (H 40 cm X 170 cm). It features a 30 gallon

horseshoe reservoir (18 cm X 170 cm), 7.6 cm baskets and 104 cm

air-cooled glass, stackable.

e) The bonzAi roTATing hydroponicS SySTem – 96, 240 And 360 SiTeS

The Bonzai Garden is a continuously moving garden, where the

plants are literally moved around the light source. At

one complete revolution per hour, your plants will not

fall off the wheel. The turning action of the Bonzai

Garden creates a stronger, shorter plant. According

to a satisfied user, “The Bonzai is actually an ebb and

flow hydroponics system on steroids.” There are three

different sizes to choose from: 96, 240 or 360 plant sites.

This unit takes about two hours to set up and plant with your

favourite plants.

f) The roTogro fully AuTomATed gArden SySTem (J.g.)The Rotogro garden is a flood and drain system. Plants are inserted

into rock wool type cubes, which are secured in the “quick drain

trays”. The garden is motorized and the trays are revolved 24 hours

a day around two center-fixed HID lamps. It takes approximately

one hour for the trays to complete one revolution. A pump is

placed at the bottom of the main reservoir and when switched on

it fills the top reservoir to the desired depth. The “quick

drain trays” are then revolved through the nutrient/water

mixture, feeding the plants. Once all the plants have been

fed, the pump is switched off, letting the nutrient/water

mixture drain back into the main reservoir. The Rotogro

garden uses 1/3 of the space and power of traditional ebb

and flow tables. There are two models to choose from: a

122 cm model with 240 plant capacities and the 122 cm

model with 312 plant capacities.

g) The VolkSgArden™ by omegA gArden™ inc. (e.m.)The Volksgarden™ is a new one–lamp plastic system from the

people at Omega Garden™. It is made of precision moulded plastic,

with the remaining structural components made of powder-coated

steel. The cylinder is chain driven and rotates a constant 24/7,

taking approximately 45 minutes to complete one full rotation. The

Volksgarden™ is designed to hold 7.6 cm cubes of rooting medium

and will accommodate up to 80 plants.

This new single lamp system includes:

- One-piece plastic cylinder;

- Individual plastic medium holders;

- Drive motor and pump;

- Glass lamp housing;

- Stainless steel feed tray;

- Powder-coated steel stand;

- (Light and reservoir are not included);

- Assembles in minutes – easy to use;

- Dimensions: 130 cm length, 81 cm deep, 162 cm high.

h) The gi-grow roTATing gArden (c.A.)This machine injects the exact required amount of liquid fertilizer

to each grow site. The trays are made of ultra solid and

sturdy stainless steel. Unlike plastic ones, these trays do

not break and they do not release contaminants. It is

possible to upgrade from 144 to 240 or to 336 plants by

purchasing an extra set of trays and accessories while

using the same frame. The light is not reflected, which

means it is much more effective. The rotation works

with 400, 600 and 1000-watt HPS or MH lamps. The

heat escapes through a glass tube that prevents the

plants from becoming dehydrated and the ends of the

leaves from becoming burned.

i) The mulTi gArden from b&b hydroponicS gArdenS

The Multi Garden is built out of plastic pails, mesh baskets, fittings, tubing

and growing medium. We use two different sizes of drain connectors and

different amounts of growing medium, so the price will vary accordingly.

The Multi Garden was the first garden that we built over 20 years ago

and will always be a favourite among hydroponics enthusiasts.

Sunleaves Garden of Ease

Page 24: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

Photos: Grow

World, Chiang M

ai University, A

ero Rooter & W

.S.INDUSTRY

The bottom pail (B & C) acts as a reservoir,

holding about 10 litres of nutrient solution

per plant. The top basket holds your favourite

growing medium. All bottom pails are connected

together using 1.3 cm grommets with 1.3 cm

tees, 1.3 cm 90 degrees or, for more water flow,

2.9 cm drain fittings (E) on both sides of the pail.

Picture right top: 1.3 cm grommet and tee. Picture right bottom:

2.9 cm drain fitting. All the top baskets have a header line with

smaller tubing attached delivering the nutrient solution to each

plant (D).

All Multi gardens come complete and ready to set up. These are

great for large plants. (A) is the control center giving you access

to the pump and nutrient solution. (B) is the expanding module,

one for each plant you want. (C) is the end unit that completes

the system, giving one last plant in the line. Choose a pump that

will provide enough pressure to deliver the nutrient solution to the

end bucket. We provide 30 cm between pails, but if you would

like more distance between the pails, buy more header tubing and

drain line. We recommend using the larger 2.9 cm drain fitting for

years of trouble-free gardening. Change the nutrient solution every

four days for best results.

J) reSerVoir gArdenS from b&b hydroponicS gArdenS

All our reservoirs have lids that can be drilled for mesh

baskets. This will make an excellent drip garden

because the reservoir holds the nutrient solution

and the reservoir lid holds the plants up. Great for

closet gardening as the reservoirs are 60

cm X 1.2 m, 90 cm X 1.2 m and 1.2 m

X 1.2 m. Set them up together to get

the layout you want.

k) compleTe hydroponicS reSerVoir gArdenS in A box

Different companies and models (Highlander from Hi-Tech Grow

Systems, Coolkast from Grow World, Casa Box from Casa Grow, etc.)

offer a complete hydroponic garden in a box. They are illuminated

with a 600 watt HPS lamp, set up in an air-cooled canopy, and with

a hydroponic drip garden for 16 plants. The reservoir sits below

the unit, giving easy access to the nutrient solution. It has its own

ventilation system, bringing

fresh carbon dioxide to the

plants. The charcoal air filter is

behind the unit, purifying the

spent air from the growing

chamber. Add a CO2 regulator

to build up the CO2 levels

within the garden to achieve

outstanding yields. All this just from a

little box! It is so simple that grade school

kids are using hydroponics systems for

their science fairs and getting great food

(and marks!) for their efforts. If you have

a problem with your garden, do not wait

until you are past the point of trouble

and with no way of return; ask when you

first notice a problem.

II – aeroponIc GardenInG In four words, what is aeroponics? Atomization of water droplets. Nutrient solution, i.e. water, is pumped under extreme

pressure through a small opening, creating even more pressure, forced up against a pan,

shattering the water into very small dropplets. The smaller the droplets, the better. Once the

water is atomized to a mist, the nutrients, air and water are absorbed by the plants much

quicker.

In fact, aeroponics is a class of hydroponics where the roots of a plant are

suspended in a mist or fog of nutrient-rich solution, so the plant’s roots never

stand in water. Because the plants roots are bathed in a nutrient-enriched

water with plenty of oxygen, they will not rot. It has always been a problem to

get the right water–to–air mixture in soil. When you water soil, the soil is usually soaked with nutrient

solution and water, which fill up all the air pockets under the surface of the soil. As the soil dries, we get a better

air–to–water mixture, but soon, within a few hours, the air has replaced the water and the soil has started to become too

dry and plant growth slows down.

When the ideal mineral elements have been dissolved into the water with

plenty of oxygen, plants do not have to expand their roots in search of

these elements, allowing them to concentrate on growth and flowering or

fruit setting. Soil will only allow the right mixture to be available for a very

short period before one of the other extremes is reached, either too wet

or too dry. With aeroponics, that perfect condition can be achieved right

from seedling or cutting to the end of a plant’s life.

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II bIS – aIroponIcS GardenInG

In four words, what is airoponics? Ultrasonic nebulizers

spreading nutrients. Airoponics is a very slight variation of

aeroponics: “(This) technique employs the use of ultrasonic

nebulizers or foggers instead of spray

nozzles to deliver nutrient solution.

This technique is considered even

more effective (than aeroponics). The

roots are indeed really in the air. It

encourages development of a healthy

plant root system, whereas with traditional aeroponics the

roots can become matted and bound. (Retrieved from

“http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aeroponics”).” We’ve got

another definition from directopedia.org: “Aeroponics is a

class of hydroponics where the roots of a plant are suspended

in a mist or fog of nutrient rich solution. Traditional aeroponic

techniques use pumps and misters more commonly found

in micro-irrigation systems, whereas state-of-the-art

techniques (airoponics) employ ultrasonic nebulizers which

render the nutrient solution into an extremely fine fog.”

In fact, ultrasonic foggers are the new airoponic method…

Some people suggest combining the fogger with the normal

aeroponic system to obtain the same results. Another great

difference between airoponics and aeroponics is the fact that

in the case of airoponics cultivation, the roots are moving

under the influence of the ultrasonic nebulizer, whereas in

the case of aeroponics cultivation, the roots are inert and

just suspended in the mist of nutrient solution provided by

the system of your choice. In airoponics, the droplets must

be smaller than 0.1 micron in order to fertilize the roots, and

there is always the risk that such a small droplet evaporates

before reaching its target! By comparison, aeroponics

systems accept five microns droplets.

aeroponIcS SyStemS

A) pipe dreAmS bAlcony, pipe dreAmS wAll gArden, pipe dreAmS mini 32, pipe dreAmS V 96, pipe dreAmS 192The strategically designed Aeroponic Growing

Systems from Pipe Dreams grow into the future. Made

from high quality material, including the introduction of

titanium injection into the grow tubes. Titanium places

a coating inside the grow tubes, stopping fungus spores

from repeatedly reoccurring in crops. The systems come

with a uniquely designed stand that tiers the growing

tubes to form a stadium effect, giving the grower

the ability to utilize the entire growing space. Comes

complete ready to set up: all systems contain growing tubes,

an aeroponic pump, a nutrient tank, a stand, all plumbing

fittings parts, misters, a water timer, web baskets, a feed

line, a feeder line, a drain line and an instruction manual.

Packed in cardboard boxes for easy shipping. A few

hours’ set up time and you’re ready to grow. My personal

INDUSTRY

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Photos: W.S.

INDUSTRY

A) Tubing And fiTTingS

Most hydroponic stores carry all types of fittings and tubing, from

0.16 cm to 5 cm tubing, fittings

to connect tubing to tubing or to

growing systems. Let them help

you with your pluming needs.

A pump will lift water through

tubing to the growing chamber. By

using transfer barbs, we can connect two

different sizes of tubing together (A). To

get the water back to the pump station,

we connect fittings to the container and

attach the tubing to the fittings (B). If you

need more water delivery to the growing

chamber, such as in ebb and flow, just connect the fittings.

b) emiTTerS

The amount of water pouring onto the growing medium can be

controlled by emitters. Emitters come in a variety of flow

rates and are used on long header runs to even out the

flow of water to each plant. This way, the first plant

receives the same water volume as the last plant does.

c) wATer pump

Water pumps are used to move water from the reservoir to the

growing chamber or to waste. We carry different

sizes and types of water pumps. We have water

pumps that deliver from 90 gallons of water to

pumps that will give you more pressure than your

house plumbing does.

advice: just add the Aroma Formula

from Growing Edge Technologies at

half strength.

b) The Single mulTi Aeroponic gArden

Only need a few large plants? Then this is the garden for

you. Air pushes the nutrient solution up to the growing

chamber, vitalizing the nutrient solution with plenty of

dissolved oxygen. This is the type of system that we have

been recommending for over 17 years for school kids to

do for their school projects. We had a father that came

in looking for a cheap system they could make at home

for his daughter’s school project. They ended up at the Toronto

School Fair as Ottawa’s representative project. Excellent unit, with

years of fun.

c) The grow Tube

The Grow Tube is a vertical garden that allows you to

set up as many Grow Tubes as your room will allow.

Screw the eye hooks into the ceiling and hang up the

tubes. Place them exactly where you want them, in

any shape. 16 plant sites per tube with a special folded

lip to stop the plastic from cutting the plant stem. Use

a strong pump to lift the nutrient solution to the top of Grow

Tubes. Connect the bottom of Grow Tube to 2.9 cm flex tubing and

drain back into the reservoir.

Strawberry, lettuce, herbs, flowers all can be grown in the Grow

Tube. Use up against the townhouse to give you a very large-

yielding garden and enjoy your patio space. Can be used as wall

dividers in offices: bring some beauty to work! Besides, who wants

to be working alI day when you could be gardening! The Grow

Tube is sold alone – you choose the growing medium (heydite –

porous shell rock – or clay pellets) and the pump, reservoir, transfer

barbs and header tubing are sold separately.

d) The Trough SySTem

The Trough System is a great system for growing small plants. Two

plants per 30 cm, spaced as far apart or as close as you need them.

For a drip garden system, add header tubing with drip lines to each

plant. Or use as a nutrient film technique: set the

units on a slant about 2 cm over every 1.5 m

and feed from the elevated end, allowing the

roots to be covered in one to two centimetres

of an enriched nutrient solution.

The Trough Garden can even be set up as

an Airoponic System: just drill holes in the

Top Plate between each plant and provide a

bigger pump with misting heads attached

to the header tubing. The Trough Garden

is a very versatile garden that allows you to

set up many different systems.

Parts Available: 3 m troughs, 30 cm top plates, 7.6 cm baskets,

trough end caps and hole covers. Add-ons: reservoirs, pumps,

tubing, misting heads, drain fittings, grommets and tees, 90

degrees.

III – Water & aIr movement

As I said at the beginning of this article, hydroponics is water working for you. Now, to make water work for you, we will need

to store a volume of water in a reservoir and connect the pumps, fittings, tubing, reservoir and growing device all together.

Finding leak-proof fittings and methods of connecting different sizes of tubing together can become a challenge.

2�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

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ITL,

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iland

d) Air pump, Air STone And Air curTAin

Air pumps are used to pump air into water to enrich the water

with dissolved oxygen. There are three ways of enriching the water

supply with oxygen:

1 – The use of air pumps and air stones.

Air stones break up the air supply as small

as possible. If a large bubble and a small

bubble are released under water, when

these two bubbles break the water surface

they will add the same amount of oxygen

to the water. We can create considerably

more small air bubbles than large air

bubbles with the same equipment. Air

stones break up the air into medium-sized air bubbles. Air Curtains

break up the air into very tiny bubbles, and will not break down

and are cleanable.

2 – Water pumps, by lifting water up and forcing the water back

into itself, such as a waterfall does. This is the absolute best way of

adding oxygen to water!

3 – Use of chemicals that react with organic matter in the water

creating chemical oxygen (using O2 Power from Growing Edge

Technologies for example). There is special tubing on the market

when you need to split where the air goes, four ways or more (see

pictures).

INDUSTRY

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2�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

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onTECHNIQUES

1st element:Water goes down a slab which hangs vertically, forcing

down nutrients and oxygen, allowing the plant to feed

more efficiently.

2nd element:The plants growing vertically are forced to work constantly

against gravity, which pulls them up, and against the lights

that are pulling them down. By constantly fighting, the

plants get more vigorous, and then have a tendency to

produce more fruits with a higher sugar content.

3rd element:The Ecosystem’s circular growing

area allows maximum use of lighting.

Supercharge the Ecosystem by using 2

x 1000 watt bulbs and add a pull of at

least 800 CFM. The more oxygen that

passes through the Ecosystem, the

more CO2 your plants absorb. Doing so

promotes a more than productive yield.

• More oxygen = more CO2;

• 1000 watts = a higher range of lumens;

• Allows you to boost NPK to a higher level;

• CO2 + lights + NPK = supercharge;

• Quality + quantity = cost effectiveness.

4th element:Two ways to irrigate the Ecosystem:• Economical: fill the base of the Ecosystem with water.

Adjust the pH and ppm. Add Grozyme®. Install pump on

timer. Water for a half hour every three hours while the

lights are on, change the water once a week or every three

days (which is preferable). Empty the reservoir completely.

Wipe clean of all residue. Fill it again.

• One way: install a drain at the bottom of the

reservoir. Install the exterior reservoir. Connect the

Ecosystem drip line to the exterior reservoir pump.

Fill the exterior reservoir with water. Add nutrients

and Grozyme®. Adjust pH. Water for 1.5 to 3 minutes

every hour. You must verify that the plants receive

enough water. Start your pump when the water

drops down the slab. Stop the pump.

5th element:NPK:For the first few days, the plants need a rooting agent that

will also promote a more vigorous growth. We also use

an enzyme during every stage. Just add it during every

water change. If you’re growing exotic plants or large size

plants, you must use a product that stops growth when the

required size is obtained. In the last two or three weeks,

we recommend a bloom enhancer. Always do a week-long

rinse at the end.

Simple, efficient, compact and cost efficient… here are six good reasons to get an

Ecosystem:

• No need to buy expensive CO2 equipment;

• No need for a costly growth controller system;

• Professional type results, first time around supercharged

hydroponics;

• The first mathematic hydroponic growing system that fits

almost anywhere: in a room, a walk-in closet, a shed, a

garage, a basement, the kitchen,

etc;

• You obtain the finest hydroponics

technology created with the help

of Université Laval and Université

de Montréal’s HEC. The simplest,

most efficient unit on the

market;

• To obtain the same results

(using another system), three times the space would be

necessary.

So, with the Ecosystem, you will save time… and reap great

harvests! Visit www.ecosystemonline.com.

Supercharge your Ecosystem naturally: 5 elements for good gardening By Réjean

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GALLERY

Omega gardens in pictures

By Ted Marchildon

Our good basil.

Japanese mustard chard called Komatsuna in the Omega

Garden.

Japanese mustard chard called Komatsuna

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30THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

Photos: Om

ega Gardens™

GALLERY

Sample of peas grown in the Omega Garden.

Red leaf lettuce called Revolution in the Omega Garden.Peas in the Omega Garden.

Omega gardens in pictures

By Ted Marchildon

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31VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2 THE INDOOR GARDENER

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GALLERY

Swiss chard in the Volksgarden.

Omega Garden model 10001 with Swiss

chard growing in.

Omega Garden model 10001 with Swiss

chard growing in.

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Photos: Om

ega Gardens™

GALLERYSwiss chard in the Volksgarden.

Urban farming is made possible with the vertical Omega carousel.

Bottom: Urban middle carousel. This picture is what I call my “middle of the road idea” and it is my answer to “peak oil” so when

it becomes too expensive to drive and ship foods over great distances, we can convert the streets into farms — the power, water,

mouths to feed and workers are all there in that picture. My calculations say that three people can be fed per linear foot of roadway

done this way, so given even 10% or less of the roads, we can feed suburbia, cut greenhouse gas emissions and increase food

security, food safety, economic diversity, and solve many social issues. Downtown we could build up and stack the systems on top of

one another in “Vertical Farms” – see www.verticalfarm.com by Columbia University.

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Top: Red leaf lettuce called Revolution growing in

the Omega Garden model 10001.

Bottom: Urban farming with the Omega carousel.

To learn more about the Omega Gardens, visit:

www.omegagarden.com.

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all

THE ROTOGRO GARDEN IN PICTURESBy Jim Gall

Lettuce (Lactuca) and basiL (Ocymum basiLicum) grOwn in fuLLy naturaL and biOLOgicaL cOnditiOns in the rOtOgrO rOtating garden.

To learn more about the Rotogro rotating garden, see

The Indoor Gardener Magazine, Vol. 1, Issue 6, page 31,

or visit www.rotogro.com ([email protected]).

GALLERY

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erican Agriculture &

D.R

.TECHNIQUES

I had never needed these

products until a few years ago.

After adapting a new technique

of cloning, I discovered the

plants were more prone to

wilting. I decided to try two of

the more popular wilt prevention

products available.

For many years, my chosen method for cloning was in

aeroponic cloning systems. This method did not require

the use of a humidity dome, so the plants were always

adapted to the given climate. Aeroponics is a ‘hybrid style’

of hydroponics, one of the best methods, but it can also

be very difficult. There are many systems commercially

available for aero cloning, and most produce similar results.

Aeroponic cloning was the best method I had encountered,

so the choice of switching methods wasn’t easy.

Why did I switch to using a humidity dome for cloning?

Simple answer: because of high temperatures.

When growing in high temperatures, anything that adds

heat can be another potential problem. Hydroponic systems

usually require the use of water reservoirs. Hot water and

horticulture can be a disastrous combination. Hydroponic

systems that use water pumps are subject to increased

reservoir temperatures. The motor on the pump gives off

added heat, raising the reservoir water temperature, more

on some models than others. Pick one up after it has run a

while and feel the heat radiating from it. This issue forced

me to reconsider how I clone.

A friend introduced me to his preferred technique of

cloning, using just a nursery tray with a humidity dome. As

I witnessed multiple trays having a 100% success rate, I was

quick to try his method out. This technique will be discussed

in-depth in another issue…

When cloning under

a humidity dome,

one is creating an

environmental barrier.

These clones are shut

off from the “outside

world”, so they adapt to

this domed climate. Within a humidity dome, expect the

obvious: humidity, no wind or air circulation, and often a

higher temperature. This cloning technique was just as

effective for me: 100% survival! Unfortunately, I noticed a

problem my friend hadn’t experienced. After removing the

well-rooted clones from under the dome, they would begin

wilting within 30 minutes. He didn’t have this problem since

his environment had a naturally higher humidity. The search

began…

The recommended products were Grotek’s ‘No

Wilt’, and Vita Grow’s ‘Anti-Wilt’. I considered

this a good opportunity to do

some testing, so I purchased both.

The testing was performed on

multiple batches of clones,

including a selection of

plant varieties. Side-

by-side, I would

compare the two

products, and here

is what I found. Both

appeared to be the

same, leading me to

The Wilt PreventionExperiment

By Josh Morell

“After removing the

well-rooted clones from under

the dome, they would begin

wilting within 30 minutes”.

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rote

believe they were manufactured with the same derivatives.

I assumed I would get similar results from each. Neither

manufacturer discloses what its product contains; however,

the Grotek web site was more informative than many other

manufacturers’ sites I’ve visited.

I started the first round of tests with Vita Grow’s Anti-

Wilt, simply because it is manufactured in my home state

of Oregon. Anti-Wilt did not work on the first attempt,

resulting in wilting. I placed the wilted clone back under

the humidity dome for recovery, but it did not survive the

stress. After that, I decided to keep a closer watch on the

clones during the following attempts. During the second

attempt I noticed the wilting and continued to spray the

plant more frequently. I gave up in frustration, and placed

the clone back under the dome; it survived. Before giving up

on the Anti-Wilt completely, I tried a new formula: I doubled

the recommended amount for use. This third attempt with

the strong mixture resulted in the first clone to survive the

transplant, but it required frequent spraying for about one

hour. This still wasn’t the result I had hoped for. At this

point I was discouraged, and skeptical that Grotek’s No Wilt

would be any better. Maybe with the right mixture, Anti-

Wilt would work flawlessly?

Grotek’s No Wilt proved to be a world of difference. From

the beginning it out-performed its competitor, proving to

be almost hassle-free. The plants required spraying twice

and they were fine from then on. Over time I realized I

had made a simple, yet stupid mistake. After reading the

directions again, it occurred to me that I hadn’t been using

the complete recommended dose. Once I corrected this

mistake, the added effectiveness was quickly noticed. After

losing so many clones to wilt prior to this experiment, I

prefer the insurance provided by No Wilt. Just be sure to

read the directions carefully!

How do anti-wilt agents work? Latex and sometimes pine

resin are the derivatives used in wilt-proofing agents.

After misting the plant with this agent, a transparent film

is created as the water/latex dries. This protective film

inhibits the transpiration of moisture (water loss) from the

plant tissue. If you don’t want wilting to occur, eliminate the

water transpiration with Grotek’s No Wilt.

Grotek Manufacturing Inc.(284)-505-8840 BC, Canadawww.grotek.net

American Agriculture, Vita Grow Anti-Wilt(800)-433-6805 www.americanag.com

TECHNIQUES

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�0THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

TECHNIQUES

The first part of this article was published in

our Volume 2 – Issue 1 (July/August 2006).

E – Nutrients

Those who know me and those who have

discussed this topic with me know that I

prefer to use chemical nutrients for indoor

cultures. When I garden outdoors, however,

I am careful of the environment and I mostly

use biological nutrients. Since organic

nutrients are bulkier and harder to transport

than chemical powders and nutrients, I

choose to use both chemical and biological

nutrients.

The first thing to do to reduce the nutrient

input required for an outdoor garden is to

choose a site that is already fertile. My article

published in The Indoor Gardener vol. 2,

no. 1 (pages 8 to 12) sums up the topic. By

using an already fertile site, you will decrease

the physical efforts required to carry heavy

organic nutrient bags.

Organic nutrients have the ability to be slowly

released, as opposed to chemical nutrients,

which are directly absorbed by the plant. For

this reason, when using non composted (non

decomposed) organic nutrients, it is important

to apply them at the end of the preceding

season, in the fall, for decomposition to

occur during winter. Composted matter must

be added early in the season, in the spring,

and further applications with quick release

organic matter must be performed.

1 – A Few Organic Matters That Can

Be Used

a) Fresh Manure

Usually rich in nitrogen and trace minerals.

Most fresh manure offers a good base for

any type of soil.

• Sheep and rabbit manure: very rich, perhaps

the richest manures. They improve heavy

soils, and their composition improves soil

drainage.

• Cow manure: it contains a lot of water, and

thus improves light soils with a weak water

retention capacity. It usually has, however,

a rather weak content of N (nitrogen) – P

(phosphorus) – and K (potassium).

• Chicken and poultry manure: it decomposes

more rapidly than other types of manure.

In the fall when their usual food sources dry up, hungry deer cause considerable damage to gardens, landscaping and prairies on the edge of woods. The American company Nature Technologies has designed the Deer Tech 880, which emits ultrasounds that keep the voracious mammals at bay. The device uses a patented ultrasound technology to saturate the deer’s predator detection system. The Deer Tech is harmless for pets and birds; it is aesthetic and will not stand out in your landscaping. See www.naturetechnologies.com.

Choosing A Site To Transplant Your Plants Outdoors IIBy Paul Henderson

Have you ever seen those impolite rodents run on electrical wires with your gorgeous sunflowers between their teeth? I have! To keep them away

from the garden, you can spray the plants they are interested in with a product called Ro-Pel. It is harmless for plants and non toxic for pets, but it has a horrible taste for squirrels. You could also spread pepper corns around the plants, or even moth balls, but it does not work every time (neither do scarecrows nor loud mobiles). Moth balls, however, are toxic, for you, your pets and your neighbours, who might not enjoy their strong smell. In any case, you will need to repeat the Ro-Pel application or re-pepper your garden after every rain shower!

Protecting Your outdoor croPs and Flower arrangements

BY B.B., H.J., w.s. & P.H.

What can you do against trespassers, small and not so small animals that set their sight on your flower beds or on your plump vegetables as soon as they are ripe for harvest? Here are a few ways to repel the unwanted critters and to protect your pets that could get intoxicated from your favourite plants (see our Vol. 1, issue 3).

a) against deer

Photo: Bruno Bredoux

B) against squirrels

Pho

to: N

atu

re T

ech

no

log

ies

Pho

to: P

estr

ol &

Gar

den

Evening primrose (Œnothera tetragonal), a very hardy and invasive perennial.

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�1VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2 THE INDOOR GARDENER

TECHNIQUES

Once dried, it acts very quickly. Rich in N

(nitrogen) and P (phosphorus).

• Horse manure: it decomposes slowly and

improves heavy soils. It is rich in N (nitrogen)

and P (phosphorus). Beware however of

viable weed seeds that it can still contain!

b) Composts

Compost should be a part of any bio garden.

Just like fresh manure, compost is one of the

bases of bio gardening. What’s more, making

your own compost with a composting

machine is very simple. Composting machines

are sold everywhere and are not very

expensive. You only need to insert, in layers,

different organic matters. Composting takes

about six months, and then the compost can

be used. It is still preferable to put it in the soil

in the fall, for the decomposition process to

be completed. A good compost will be made

up of many elements so that it can contain all

the nutrients required by plants.

Good composting conditions include: good

humidity, heat, worms and air; bacteria then

do their decomposition work. Composting

instructions are usually included with the

composting machine; I suggest you read

them carefully.

Here are a few elements that should be

found in a composting machine (before they

are put in, it would be best to shred them to

accelerate the decomposition process):

• Grass cuttings and plant matter;

• Wood shavings and chips;

• Wood ashes;

• Leftovers from fruits and vegetables

(without skin or peal to avoid chemical

products);

• Shredded newspaper;

• Animal manure;

• Animal litter;

• Egg shells;

• Conifer needles;

• Healthy faded flowers and leaves;

• Most food leftovers.

I use organic nutrients that are as concentrated

as possible, such as guanos and fresh rabbit

manure. I also choose the matters that will be

released as quickly as possible, such as dried

chicken manure and wood ashes. I make a

mixture with compost and fresh manure – a

mixture that will drain well but will retain a

good humidity rate. I then incorporate this

mixture into the soil of my future garden.

Blood meal and algae meal compost are also

excellent biological nutrients that I use to

balance out the mixture.

My chemical nutrient use is limited to a

growth start boost, a flowering boost and an

end of flowering boost. At the beginning of

the growth cycle, when I transplant outdoors,

I use 10-52-10 to strengthen the roots. A

month later, I use a two-part hydroponic

liquid nutrient for growth, at a concentration

As is the case for squirrels, there is a product specially designed to keep hares and bunnies out of the garden: Wilson’s Rabbit Repell, which is applied with a brush to the plants’ stems to keep away hares, but also deer and mice. The product repels them and keeps them from chewing on your plants. You can also try the products designed for environmental protection made by Dr. T’s Nature Products / The Repellent Co. at www.repell.com.

Nixalite® Premium Bird Control strips are an all stainless steel bird spike barrier that repels pest birds on nearly any surface. It works for all birds including pigeons, seagulls, sparrows, starlings, swallows, etc. (source: www.nixalite.com). See also the products sold by Bird-B-Gone, Inc. at www.birdbgone.com.

Phot

o: B

runo

Bre

doux

c) against Hares

d) against Pigeons, seagulls, sParrows, starlings, swallows…

Pho

to: W

ilson

Pho

to: N

ixalite®

These Calendula maroccana on the left are ready to be transplanted outdoors, the ones on the right are very weak (the pot did not drain well after germination, giving week plants).

Page 42: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

�2THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

TECHNIQUES

of 1,200 ppm. The only other chemical I use

is a flowering boost, three weeks before

harvest, such as Blue Magic’s Monster

Bloomer. The effects of that application are

quickly visible!

F – Protecting your garden

It is not rare for plants grown outside to be

the victim of predators. Prevention remains

the best means of minimizing the damage

from a future invasion. When growing

outside, think of the environment and of the

ecosystem: it is best to use biological means

and products to protect against predators.

Here is a very brief summary of some of the

biological techniques I use outdoors.

1 – Insects

Attacks from insects are quite natural, so we

should not panic when we see insects or their

traces on plants. Young plants, however, are

much more vulnerable because they do not

have many leaves to protect themselves

– they must be watched closely.

Insecticide soaps like End All, which are not

chemicals, offer a relatively good protection

against most insects, and most particularly

against white flies and thrips (thysanoptera

– they look like one to three millimetre long

whitish beige sticks).

Sticky traps are very efficient against gnats

(small black flies). Spider mite (small red of

whitish beige spiders with two black dots on

their backs, like eyes) infestations are rare

outside, because spider mites do not like

rain, but if the summer is hot and dry, they

can be a danger. A product such as Vendez

can then be sprayed on the leaves with lots

of water. Insecticide soaps like Safer’s are

also good biological prevention tools against

spider mites.

Slugs eat and love to eat leaves. You’ll know

where they’ve been when you see a trace

of viscous slime they leave behind around

the site and on the plants. This can easily be

prevented by placing coarsely shredded egg

shells around the base of the plants – this will

act as an anti-slug barrier.

2 – Wild animals

Wild animal attacks on our garden are

usually very damaging and can cause the

loss of most of the crop. Deer are the most

threatening, followed by beavers.

There are a few good products, such as Skoot,

Nothing works better than ant traps, such as the Maxforce FC Ant Bait Stations – sold in packs of 24. Maxforce FC Ant Control Bait Stations are certified child resistant stations, and they are approved for use anywhere. Maxforce FC Ant Control Bait is effective against a broad spectrum of ants. Small, clear, plastic bait stations allow for quick inspection. This lets you know when the bait is gone and it is time to replace them. (Source: www.diypesticides.com).

These small haemophiliac animals are too often the victim of cruel traps that make them die of exsanguination. There are environment-friendly ways of protecting your crops against moles. For example, you can plant castor oil plants (ricin) and wet the soil around the molehills with castor oil – moles will not cross such a barrier. You will reach the same results by diluting castor oil in water. Towards the end of the fall season, spray the perimeter of your lawn with castor oil. A five-centimetre strip should suffice. Against moles and a few other rodents, you can also use a highly concentrated elder manure, to be sprayed directly in the molehills and tunnels. It is also said that hardy gloxinia (Incarvillea delavayi) repels moles. It is also a beautiful perennial that will complete your garden.

e) against ants

Photo: Stock Exchange Image

F) against molesHorse manure: beware of weed seeds that could remain.

Pho

to: D

.R.

Pho

to: F

irm

a K

reu

k

Page 43: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)
Page 44: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

��THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

TECHNIQUES

7854 N. SR 37 Bloomington, IN 47404

2247 N. Plaza Drive Visalia, CA 93291

Give your customersGardener’s Digest -available now.96 pages of great products and info.Ask for it by name.

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LITTLE

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We love indoor lighting!Check out the newest developments in horticultural lighting in addition to our

other innovative year ‘round gardeningproducts at your nearest Sunleaves dealer.

We love indoor lighting!Check out the newest developments in horticultural lighting in addition to our

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In four-, six-, and eight-tube configurations, thesew i d e - d i s p e r s i o n fixtures haveVitaLUME T5 tubes INCLUDED! Availablewith Grow or Bloom tubes.

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that give plants a very bitter taste that animals

do not enjoy! For this reason, however, you

must only spray these products on growing

plants – never on flowering plants, because

the product will give the plant or vegetable

a horrible taste.

My preferred method to prevent deer from

eating my plants is to make a fence around

the garden with 20 lb fishing wire. Use trees

as spikes and make three rows of fishing

wire, starting at 30 centimetres from the

ground and placing each one 30 centimetres

above the last one. This will create an almost

invisible fence that works and yet is discreet!

3 – Intruders

I’m thinking of thieves and hikers. Do not

put bear traps or other violent traps against

intruders. You would risk injuring an innocent

hiker who, in any case, was not likely to touch

your crop. You must beware, however: even

in the city, some people do not hesitate to

leave with your geranium pot or to uproot

a decorative shrub that is still young, easily

transportable and transplantable!

Perhaps the neighbourhood’s cats and dogs meet up in your garden. Be careful: in that case, you will need to protect your plants without harming your neighbour’s pets or your own! You will need to protect the plants they like, but also protect them against plants that can poison them. To prevent local cats from taking your vegetable plot for an open-air litter box, spread used coffee grounds and citrus peels. You could also wet cloths with white vinegar and place those at the base of plants: vinegar repels cats, dogs, racoons and rabbits. There are also many mechanical or chemical solutions, from lemon spray to invisible fences linked to a sensor system and to a collar your dog must wear. You will find those at pet shops or garden centres. There are even automatic sprinklers that are movement-activated. If you are looking for an all-natural solution, there is a specific variety of coleus (Coleus canina Sumcol 01) that is reputed to repel cats, dogs and rabbits. You might want to have a few specimens throughout the garden. For more information, see www.scardy-cat.com.

You can make your own entirely natural repulsive oil against flies. At the pharmacy, get two ounces of citronella. You will also need four ounces of olive oil and three little squares of camphor. Melt the camphor in the olive oil, and once it is completely melted, add the citronella. Spray on fly-attracting plants. Source: La Nature à votre Service, AFEAS Mauricie.

Watering of beans during early flowering.

Calendula marocanna in bloom.

The diseased Rex begonia pictured in the previous issue is now (two months later) in full health since

it has been transferred outdoors.

g) against Flies

H) against cats and dogs and (also) to Protect tHem against tHemselves

Photos: Bruno BredouxPh

oto

: D.R

.Ph

oto

: B.B

.

Duchesse under the magnolia tree.

Flowering white beans.

Page 45: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

7854 N. SR 37 Bloomington, IN 47404

2247 N. Plaza Drive Visalia, CA 93291

Give your customersGardener’s Digest -available now.96 pages of great products and info.Ask for it by name.

Check out the newestSunleaves Product Guide.• All Sunleaves product info and images

in brilliant, eye-catching color printedon a heavyweight glossy stock

• Handy Lighting Comparison Chart• Guano Feeding Schedule

A self-contained light system, the Pulsar Two-Way Mini accommodates both MH and HPSlamps; available in 250- and 400-watt sizes.

LITTLE

biglight

We love indoor lighting!Check out the newest developments in horticultural lighting in addition to our

other innovative year ‘round gardeningproducts at your nearest Sunleaves dealer.

We love indoor lighting!Check out the newest developments in horticultural lighting in addition to our

other innovative year ‘round gardeningproducts at your nearest Sunleaves dealer.

Browse the complete line of Sunleaves products at:

T5 Fluorescent Fixtures

In four-, six-, and eight-tube configurations, thesew i d e - d i s p e r s i o n fixtures haveVitaLUME T5 tubes INCLUDED! Availablewith Grow or Bloom tubes.

of Sunleaves Garden Products.BWGS is a Proud Distributor

BWGS 800-316-1306 BWGS WEST 888-316-1306fax 800-316-1264 fax 888-316-1264

IndGrdnr_SL_lights_BWGS.qxd 7/19/06 9:54 AM Page 1

Page 46: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

��THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

Photo: Jessy CaronBOTANICAL DICTIONARY

A Touch of HistoryThe terrestrial orchid, the only one known during Antiquity, draws its name from the observation made by one of Aristotle’s

disciples, Theophrastus (372 – 287 B.C.) of its subterranean tubers. He called it “orkhis”, from the Greek for testicles, as

an allusion to the resemblance between those and the two rhizomatous bulbs shared by most orchids then known in the

Mediterranean area. Orchids were then grown for their medicinal properties and not for their beauty or perfume. Two

thousand years ago, under the lead of Greek wise man Discorides (41 – 68), the “Doctrine of signature” was applied – this

doctrine said that every part of a plant that resembled a human organ could be beneficial to the organ and enter into the

care given to the patient. People then believed that orchids were perfect to cure infertility. Antiquity doctors also attributed

a high aphrodisiac property to orchids. It was only during Renaissance that orchids were cultivated for their horticultural

value.

In 1818, Lord Cattley discovered the first epiphytic orchid, growing on the branches of trees to which it clings. This led to

orchid hunts, and to orchids becoming a sought-after treasure. Many explorers died in their expeditions, in an attempt to

discover new varieties. After harvesting a newly-discovered variety, the hunters often burned the site to have an exclusive

right on the flower, but this led to the extinction of some indigenous species. In 1885 a conference was held and the Royal

INDOOR PLANT CLASSIFICATION

5 – THE MAIN ORCHID FAMILIES By Jessy Caron

Page 47: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

Phot

os: J

essy

Car

onBOTANICAL DICTIONARY

Horticultural Society (RHS) was created; it started to see to

the protection of endangered species. Such societies offer

books, conferences, classes, contests, meetings and exhibits

to increase our knowledge of orchids. It is mainly because of

such societies that orchid cultivation is now available to all.

The Most Common GenusPhragmipedium: This genus includes fifteen to twenty

epiphytic and terrestrial orchids, mainly from Central America

and Mexico. Like Paphiopedilum, their close relative, they

have a slipper-shaped labellum, but they differ with their

long, more numerous and narrower

leaves, 20 to 30 centimetres long.

The flowers are solitary or in small

clusters on floral scapes, generally

show narrow arched petals, a

hood-shaped sepal and a show-

shaped labellum. The colours vary

but usually include a base of white

or greenish yellow, nuanced with purple. Minimum winter

temperature: 10 to 15 degrees for cool climate species and

18 degrees for tropical species. WD, GIL, MD, MS, zones 9-

11 (they live outdoors in USDA zone 6).

Paphiopedilum (relative of the Lady slipper): This

genus is found from India to south-eastern Asia, in the south

of China, in the Philippines and in New Guinea. It includes

approximately 60 species. Often

compact, the plants have fleshy roots, a

few large leaves (often marbled), a short

stem and one to a few flowers with a

characteristic slipper-shaped labellum.

GIL, HS, WD, MD, MC, zones 8-11 (they

live outdoors in USDA zones 3-6).

Cattleya: This genus includes 40 to

60 species of epiphytes from Central and South America.

The flowers have led to countless hybrids with miniature

to gigantic flowers ranging from 5 to 15 centimetres in

diameter. Beside blue, practically all colours are present.

The typical flowers shows three rather narrow sepals in

front of which are placed two larger superior petals, often

with a wavy side, and a flashier central lip or labellum, with

wavy margins. The labellum is marked in various ways and

its sides flap back onto one another in the back to form a

tube. The plants have crawling rhizomes and narrow erect

pseudobulbs. In a group of species, the bifoliate cattleya,

two large leaves emerge from the top of each pseudobulb.

The other group, the unifoliolate, only bears

one leaf, usually narrower and more erect.

The floral spikes can bear only one or two

leaves or up to ten and they emerge from

the summit of the pseudobulbs. Hybrids

and bifoliate require a lower temperature

Page 48: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

��THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

Photos: Jessy CaronBOTANICAL DICTIONARY

than unifoliolate species. They like a rest in winter. MD, GIL,

zones 10-12.

Dendrobium (Dendrobe): This type of orchid is one of

the most prolific, with 1,200 species spread out from India

to Japan, including Australia, New Zealand and Fiji. These

species prosper on humid tropical plains

and up to 3,000 metres in altitude, as

well as in Australia’s semi-desert-like

climate. They are mostly epiphytic but

also grow on boulders or in swamps,

which makes any generalization about

their mode of cultivation difficult.

Species that form bushes develop fleshy

pseudobulbs, while others grow thin

pseudobulbs, and the flowers often

spread out on secondary branchlets

once the leaves fall. We can distinguish

between the erect types and the more

supple ones, and there are warm,

temperate and cool climate species. Warm climate species

should not be put in conditions where the temperature is

below 15 degrees, but temperate species can handle as

low as 2 degrees. The ideal substrate is a mixture of bark,

wood charcoal and sphagnum. A dry period of rest in winter

improves flowering. MC, WD, zones 10-12.

Epidendrum: With some thousand known species, this

orchid genus is one of the largest, although many varieties

have been taken out of it, such as Encyclia. The species are

variable – some form stems that resemble bulrushes, and

others form vigourous pseudobulbs. They

grow from Florida to Argentina, at many

altitudes and in habitats that range from

the rain forest to an arid rocky hill. MD, MP,

GIL, WD, WC, zones 9-11.

Cypriledium (Lady slipper): This genus

includes 35 species of deciduous terrestrial

orchids. They grow in the temperate areas

of Eurasia and North America as well as

in southern Asia and Mexican mountains.

Its two names, common and scientific,

come from the way the bulbous labellum is carved to

form a little pouch resembling a slipper. The wide thin

corrugated leaves emerge from the rhizomes in the spring

and the flowers bloom in summer on erect stems, either

alone or many to a stem. Many tropical orchids that used

to be classified as Cypripedium, are now spread across the

genus Paphiopedilum, Phragmipedium and Selenipedium.

Their difficult cultivation is important to take into account.

CC, S, RS, WD, MD, zones 5-9 (they live outdoors in

USDA zone 3).

Phalaenopsis: The pastel flowers, large leaves and

complex petals of the fifty species that compose this genus

recall a butterfly and contribute to these orchids’ grace. They

are found in tropical Asia, in New Guinea and in Australia.

They do not form pseudobulbs:

their uniform green or spotted

green leaves emerge straight

from the stalk and the arched

floral scapes go well above

them. These scapes can grow

higher than 60 centimetres and

bear 20 beautiful flowers, 10

centimetres in diameter, most

often a glossy white and sometimes pale pink, almost year-

round. HC, WC, GIL, WD, RS, MD, zones 9-11.

LegendsLIGHT

HS: Half-shade

S: Shade

GIL: Good indirect light

CLIMATE

WC: Warm climate

CC: Cool climate

HC: Humid climate

SOIL

WD: Well drained

RS: Rich or fertile soil

PROPAGATION

MC: Multiplication by cuttings

MP: Multiplication by pips

MS: Multiplication by seedlings

MD: Multiplication by division

How is an orchid named?An orchid’s name always contains at least two parts:

* the first indicates the genus, e.g. Cymbidium,

* the second indicates the species, e.g. lowianum.

If, within a species, there are notable differences on the

flower, its colours or its size:

* the third element indicates the variety, e.g. var. concolor.

The complete name of the orchid in the example above is:

* Cymbidium lowianum var. concolor.

Does the name have any particular meaning?

The name can be given in function of:

- a particularity;

- its discoverer;

- its origin, etc.

Source: Société française d’orchidophilie

Page 49: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

After ArmAgeddon… only the strongest will survive

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© 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. All Rights Reserved.© 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Black Gold is a registered

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Page 50: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

50THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

Photos: D.R

.PLANT PHYSIOLOGY

Glucids are substances that in everyday life we call sugars

(because of their taste, although there are exceptions!). In

fact, we make a distinction between:

• monoses, or simple sugars or monosaccharides that cannot

be separated through hydrolysis;

• osides, glucids that are formed through the

association of many monose molecules. Through

hydrolysis, they give out monoses (but don’t be in a

hurry – the reaction is often slow!)

Osides + water -----> monoses!

What about the sugar you put in your coffee? We will see

that it is, in fact, made up of two monoses – and therefore

is an oside.

In this brief biochemistry lesson, we will only examine the

most important aspects of these molecules, and we will

look at their biological roles.

1 – Let’s Discuss Monoses The best known monose is glucose: you’ll find it in all

candies, in your blood, in fruit (in fructose form) and it even

is, for many of your cells, the only acceptable nourishment.

A – How A Monose Is MadeFormulas used to represent monose moleculesWhich atoms form a monose? Only C, O and H!

In what proportions? We always find the same number of

C and O, and twice as many H. This means monoses follow

the general formula (Cn H2

n O

n)x times.

Monose are also called carbohydrates (water + carbon). It is

true that monoses are carbohydrates, but not all carbs are

simple sugars: the lactic acid produced by your tired muscles

(following the formula C(H2O)

3) is a carbohydrate but not a

monose.

The value of n in the formula (Cn H2

n O

n) varies. For

example:

• Glucose: n=6, C6H

12O

6.

• Ribose: n= 5, C5H

10O

5.

• Fructose (sugar produced by fruit): n=6, same basic

formula as glucose!

These two molecules thus share the same molecular mass,

since they contain the same quantity of the same atoms.

The simple formulas are not precise enough, but they do

allow us to distinguish the different simple sugars:

• those with six carbon atoms are hexoses (hexo = 6 + oses):

glucose, fructose, galactose…;

• those with five atoms of carbon are pentoses

(pento = 5 + oses);

• those with four atoms of carbon are tetroses

(tetra = 4 + oses);

• those with three atoms of carbon are trioses

(tri = 3 + oses).

B – Where We Use More Precise Formulas (called structural formulas)A simple sugar is always made up of an unbranched carbon

skeleton that bears atoms containing O (oxygenated

functions) or not.

The nature and the position of functions only appear on

semi-structural formulas, which represent the relations

between atoms more precisely.

N. B.: Atoms attach to one

another by exchanging electrons.

Atoms can only exchange a

certain number of electrons, never

more. Carbon (C), for example, can only e x c h a n g e

four electrons, not more. Oxygen, O, can only exchange two

and hydrogen, H, can only exchange one electron (because

it only has one!).

2 – Let’s Start By Looking At GlucoseFirst, the name of functions. Groups containing O and H

grafted onto carbon can bear different names (chemistry

is a well organized science!). Let us recall three that can be

useful:

• The alcohol function: OH. It is found in all… alcohols, of

course!

• T he ketone function: C=O (C double bond O, not C equals

O! This means that C and O exchange

two electrons instead of one)

• The aldehyde function: CHOH

Glucids: An Explanation

By Roger Raynal

Page 51: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

Phot

os: D

.R. &

T.J

.

One monose thus contains many alcohol

functions and either a ketone function or an

aldehyde function.

What you see below (bottom right page 50) are three ways

of representing glucose. At the top, the structural formula

gives us a map of the molecule. Every atom is separated by

its bonds, but the formula is unwieldy.

In the middle, the “semi-structural” formula: groups branch

out of the carbon axis but are not detailed.

Underneath, the formula is more condensed: all similar

groups have been combined.

We can thus classify monoses with the help of two criteria:

number of C atoms in the molecule and presence of an

aldehyde or a ketone function.

Number of carbon atoms:

• Monose with aldehyde function: aldose six

• Monose with ketone function: ketose six

• Galactose five

• Fructose five

• Ribose four

• Ribulose four

• Erythrose three

• Erythrulose three

• Glyceraldehyde three

• Dihydroxyacetone three

3 – StereoisomersGlucose and galactose share the same formula, even when

using the “semi-structural” formula: they have the same

functions in the same positions, leading you to believe

that they are the same molecule. Look at your hands (I will

assume you have two): you will find the same fingers in the

same positions (well, I hope so for your sake!). And yet, a

left hand is not the same as a right hand: your fingers do

not have the same spatial orientation (which is obvious at

the thumb). It is much the same for glucose and galactose:

a carbon atom (called alpha carbon) is the palm of the

hand, and four “fingers” make up the bonds with the rest

of the molecule. Their only difference is in the asymmetrical

orientation of the functional groups making up the

stereoisomers (an important point, since they have many

peculiarities among living beings!). These stereoisomers are

represented using Fischer projections: vertical

carbon chain + aldehyde function above

+ H and OH couples towards the front.

On the alpha carbon, OH to the right:

D series; OH to the left: L series.

PLANT PHYSIOLOGY

Page 52: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

Photo: D.R

. — Illustration by A

nna Kanaras after a photo of The Thinker by Rodin (D

.R.)

DISCOVERY

In the third issue of The Indoor Gardener, I had touched upon the

difference between the terms “bio”, “biological”, “ecologic” and

“organic” (Notes & News, page 14). I am now asked about the

difference between “natural” and “organic”. Why? Perhaps because in

our times and reading this magazine, our readers wonder and oppose

soil cultivation methods to hydroponic cultivation, while hanging on to

the illusion that hydroponic is somehow more natural, or even more

assuredly organic.

To explain this, I must go back to the philosophy (yes, now is the time to

use those philosophy classes and to recall the shock you felt when you

heard about the “animal-machine” theory!) of René Descartes (1596-

1650) and reprint the text below. This excerpt asks the question of what

is, according to him, natural, which here meets the association between

a “natural” soil-based mode of production and a mode of production

in a mechanical machine – made by a craftsman or an industrialist –

that is still in and of itself, “natural”, and as such leads to a “natural”

production, which will also be “organic” if the only products used

are made from biological organic matter, which is to say

with no chemical additive (but as we will see this too is

overly theoretical), to ensure a final “organic” crop. Do

you follow?

Here is the excerpt from René Descartes, which, according

to me, sheds light on the preceding paragraph: “I know of

no difference between the machines made by craftsmen

and the various bodies that nature assembles, except that

the machines’ effects depend only on the arrangement of

certain pipes, or springs or other instruments that, having to be

proportionate to the hands of their makers, are always so large that

“The Universe, in making man, gave itself both a victim and a judge.”Jean Rostand, biologist, 1894-1977

Gardening PhilosophyWhat Is “Natural”? What Is “Organic”?By Bruno Bredoux

Page 53: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

53VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2 THE INDOOR GARDENER

Phot

o: B

runo

Bre

doux

— Il

lust

rati

on U

SDA

DISCOVERY

their figures and movements are visible, while the pipes or

springs that cause the effects of natural bodies are usually

too small to be perceived by our senses. And it is certain that

all mechanical rules belong to physics, which means that all

things artificial are also natural. When, for example, a watch

shows the hour by means of the mechanism of which it is

made, it is no less natural than it is for a tree to bear fruit.”

If we follow Descartes’ reasoning, it is thus no less “natural”

for a hydroponic system to produce plants than it is for soil

to support a plant or for a tree to produce fruit. Nature has

the capacity to generate its own plants, biological beings,

mineral or chemical substances. All of this is thus natural.

These “natural” productions have the ability to generate

themselves. This is corroborated by the Latin etymology

of the word “nature”, which comes from nascere, “to be

born”. That which grows in a hydroponic system, however,

is produced with the means of a human invention (for

example, the rotating hydroponic wheel). Nevertheless,

according to Descartes, the end result – the crop – remains

natural. If in his text he denies the difference between

mechanical production and organic growth, we can take

for granted that organic growth in a mechanical production

unit remains natural. On his blog, Le Labyrinthe (The Maze),

contemporary philosopher Jérôme Coudurier-Abaléa goes

as far as saying that for Descartes, natural, in the end, means

“normal”. We can thus say that anything produced in the

world is natural, that human and artificial are both natural.

The only specificity to each is the field of study of its different

production results. Inanimate objects will be subjected to

the physical sciences, while the living belongs to biology

and medicine. Now we only need to figure out what is also

organic!

The definition of what we can call organic in agriculture

is much more recent than Descartes’ definition of what is

natural. It is only in the early 1970’s that the concept of

“organically grown” foodstuffs was invented. It was the

editor of Organic Gardening and Farming magazine

who started the ball during a public hearing held

on December 1st, 1972 in New York: “Food grown

without pesticides; grown without artificial

fertilizers; grown in soil whose humus content

is increased by the additions of organic

matter, grown in soil whose mineral

content is increased by the application

of natural mineral fertilizers; has not

been treated with preservatives,

hormones, antibiotics, etc.”

This definition, however, did

not survive long, because of the overwhelming diversity of

the methods called “organic” that existed in the 1970’s. In

1980, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) revised

and narrowed this definition in a report that went so far as

to say there could never be a unique, universally accepted

definition of “organic farming”.

The USDA report thus stipulated: “The organic movement

represents a spectrum of practices, attitudes, and

philosophies. On the one hand are those organic practitioners

who would not use chemical fertilizers or pesticides under

any circumstances. These producers hold rigidly to their

purist philosophy. At the other end of the spectrum, organic

farmers espouse a more flexible approach. While striving to

avoid the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides, these

practitioners do not rule them out entirely. Instead, when

absolutely necessary, some fertilizers and also herbicides are

very selectively and sparingly used as a second line of defence.

Nevertheless, these farmers, too, consider themselves to be

organic farmers.” (Source: USDA Study Team on Organic

Farming. Report and Recommendations on Organic

Farming. USDA, July 1980). After the 1970’s purism

and intransigence, reality was back and offered a

much more realistic definition of what actually

happens in so-called organic production units.

Although in December 1997 the USDA

proposed and drafted a series of specific

regulations to regulate the production

and handling of “organic” products

(National Organic Program;

Proposed Rule. Federal Register

62:65850/65967, 1997) in

the United States, there are

Page 54: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

5�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

Photos: Bruno Bredoux & D

.R.

DISCOVERY

at the moment 11 state agencies and 33 private agencies

that hold the power to certify the production of some

4,000 farmers and 600 handling facilities

(resellers, distributors, transformers) that

qualify as “organic”. Each of these agencies

thus evaluates its own authorized or

forbidden substances, its own standards

and its own qualifying and disqualifying

agents. Allowed substances have to

meet no national prior agreement and

no U.S. agri-business industry standard.

The USDA’s seal is only one among many.

Following the USDA’s program, after

having done everything to bring a crop

to term while following specifications

(recycling of organic waste in compost,

integrated pest control using their natural

predator or beneficial micro-organisms, plant manipulation

performed without synthetic additives, etc.), if the result

is failure, the USDA then allows the use of some chosen

chemicals. The list of those is very

specific and does not include any

cytotoxic chemicals that are carbon-

based. This means that the USDA’s

“organic” seal is applied even to

products treated with the chemical

products on its list.

The debate regarding organic

products is far from over. Other

associations are now entering the debate – consumers,

environmental activists, political activists, etc. – and are

looking at other aspects: are organic products more

nutritious, safer, tastier, do they prevent certain types of

cancer? Dissatisfaction is rising with regards to the standards

currently applied and to the new proposed regulations.

Each group has its own focus and attempts to have a say

or to have its point of view considered. The OTA (Organic

Trade Association), for example, declared: “The definition

of organic as written in the proposed, national organic

standards lacks the holistic approach central to organic

practices. The proposed rules take a reductionist approach

to organic food production that eliminates key concepts such

as the health of the agro-ecosystem and biodiversity on the

farm.” Shall we call those products “organic-holistic”? The

USDA is also pressured from the other side – consumers are

not the only ones involved, nor indeed concerned. If the

4,000 certified “organic” farmers in the United States have

one power, it is the power to draft their own law. If the

USDA’s rules are too precise and if control is too restrictive,

the farmers threaten to get their organic raw material

supply from foreign countries, where regulations are more

lenient. This threatens the USA’s agricultural

protectionism.

The problem encompasses more than

production and manipulation. Can an organic

product that leaves its production site (the

organic farm) still be considered organic once

on a consumer’s plate? What distribution

network does it go through? Are all rules

(which ones?) respected at all steps? Are

there other steps (transformation, polishing,

embellishing) that we are not aware of?

To conclude, we will get back to the beginning

and to science and philosophy. According to

biologist Jean Rostand (1894-1977): “The

biological ignores the cultural. Of all that the human being

has learnt, experienced, felt over the centuries, nothing was

deposited in his organism. […]. Each generation must learn

anew […]” (A Biologist’s Thoughts). We must combine

the innate to our cultural inheritance and to our future

perspectives. Man’s great goal is survival in a disintegrating

world. Can organic products save us? Will we be able to

keep them sufficiently pure, natural and organic for the

greater good? The debate is constantly changing. Nature

or nurture? Natural or organic? Philosophers have been

wondering, from the 18th century to now, from Jean-Jacques

Rousseau to Claude Levi-Strauss... Does culture complete

nature or does it replace it?

In our societies, organic is slowly replacing what is natural,

what is born of the soil. Do we want products that are so

well/properly transformed that they can no longer be called

natural, but only organic? And then, we may be satisfied

and allowed to rest...

With references to Jérôme Coudurier-Abaléa’s blog, Le Labyrinthe, at http://lelabyrinthe.over-blog.net (article:Descartes: Le corps est une machine déterminée) and a text by Stephen Barrett, M.D. (Aliments “Organic” Foods: Certification Does Not Protect Consumers) published on Quackwatch: Your Guide to Quackery, Health Fraud, and Intelligent Decisions (www.quackwatch.org), and available at www.quackwatch.org/01QuackeryRelatedTopics/organic.html.

Page 55: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

THE HYDROPONIC WORLD OF NORTH AMERICA10051 North 2nd St.

Laurel, Maryland 20723

301-490-9236866-MD-HYDRO

WWW.mdhydro.com

8484 Florin Road # 110 Sacramento, CA. 95828

Ph. (916) 381-2464Fax: (916) 381-2468

Opening soon1918 16th street

Sacramento, Ca 95814

PLANT’ IT EARTH2279 Market StreetSan Francisco, CA 94114(415) 626-5082www.plantitearth.com

PLANT’ IT EARTH1 Dorman AveSan Francisco, CA 94124(415) 970-2465www.plantitearth.com

B E R K E L E Y INDOOR GARDEN

844 University AveBerkeley, CA 94710

(510) 549-1234Fax: (510) 549-2582

GREENMILE HYDROPONIC GARDEN SUPPLY

1035 South Mt Vernon Ave, Suite GColton, CA 92324Tel: (909) 824-9376

Boulder / Denver

Year-round Garden Supply

(formerly Growers Choice Hydroponics)

1100 Carver Road, #20Modesto, CA 95350

Tel.: (209) 522-2727Toll free: 1-866-788-0765

5561 South Orange Blossom Trail

Orlando FL. 32802 Toll Free(888) 833-4769

ROCKY MOUNTAIN LIGHTING AND HYDROPONICS

302 Main SterlingDenver, CO 80751

Tel: (970) 522-2250Toll free: (800) 886-5020

www.rockymountainlightin-gandhydroponics.com

THE GROWCERY STORE

1501 Lee Hill Road, #17Boulder, CO 80304(303) 449-0771

www.thegrowcerystore.com

132 Kennedy AvenueCampbell, CA. 95008

http://www.precisionhydroponics.com

Tel: (408) 866-8176Fax: (408) 866-8187

We specialize in CUSTOM DESIGN

116 West Orangeburg AvenueModesto, CA 95350

www.cocas-hydroponics.com

Monday to Friday: 10AM-6PM

Saturday & Sunday: 10AM-5PM

United States

10051 North 2nd St.Laurel, Maryland

20723301-490-9236

866-MD-HYDROWWW.mdhydro.com

Page 56: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

THE HYDROPONIC WORLD OF NORTH AMERICA

www.AnthonysGarden.com

"Our Business Is Growing"Your Indoor Outdoor

Gardening Specialists

93779 Troy Lane - Coos Bay, OR 97420(541) 266-8822 Fax: (541) 266-9754

3839 6th AveTacoma, WA

(253) 761-7478www.indoorgarden.com

714 South CentralKent, WA

(253) 373-9060www.indoorgarden.com

23303 Highway 99, Suite AEdmonds, WA

(425) 673-2755www.indoorgarden.com

394 Route 15/P.O. Box 235Underhill, Vt 05489

Tel.: Toll free 1 (800) 564-9376www.hooked-on-ponics.com

Green Thumb Gardening

Grow Monster Plants

THE GROW ROOM8 Bridge StreetNyack, NY 10960Toll Free:

(800) 449-9630Fax: (845) 348-8811www.thegrowroom.com

38 Front StBallston Spa, NY 12020

Toll free (800) 850-GROW(518) 885-2005

Fax (518) 885-2754www.saratogaorganics.com

1555 Hurffville RdSewell, NJ 08080

Tel.: (856) 227-6300Toll free: 1-888-927-6300

Fax: (856) 227-2930www.tastyharvest.com

AHL Garden Supply1051 San Mateo Blvd SE

Albuquerque, New Mexico 87108phone 800-753-4617 / fax 505-

255-7417Read what other customers are

saying about their experience with AHL and ahlgrows.com

at http://ahlgrows.com/kudos.htmle-mail: [email protected]

[email protected]

For sales and advertising, contact:

Subscribe & WIN!!!

23529 Little Mack Ave.St.Clair Shores,MI 48080 USA

Toll Free; 1-866-493-7627www.tcs-hydroponics.com

1866-HYDRO-CS (1866-493-7627)

10051 North 2nd St.Laurel, Maryland

20723301-490-9236

866-MD-HYDROWWW.mdhydro.com

Page 57: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

THE HYDROPONIC WORLD OF NORTH AMERICA

Canada 107 Falcon Drive (Hwy. 97 S) Williams Lake, BC V2G 5G7

Phone: (250) 398-2899 Fax: (250) 398-2896

Toll Free: 1-877-588-5855www.hallsorganics.com

AQUA GRO HYDROPONIC SUPPLIES101-2689 Kyle RdKelowna, BC V1Z 2M9(250) 769-7745Fax: (250) 769-7748

GREEN WONDER GARDENING INC.22 Waddell Ave.Dartmouth, NS B3B 1K3Toll Free: (877) 845-6866(902) 466-1255www.greenwonder.com

2192 Route 102 Lincoln, New Brunswick, E3B 8N1

Phone: (506) 458-9208 Facsimile: (506) 459-1377 Email: [email protected]

"TIME IS MONEY, START GROWING TODAY

6 MONTHS NO INTEREST NO PAYMENTS!" "EXCLUSIVELY AT 21ST CENTURY GARDENING!"

Tracadie3717 Rue Principale506-395-6055

Edmundston 11 Crabtree 506-737-9982.

Dieppe 663 Malenfant Blvd. 506-388-9982

P.E.I.18790 Highway 1Desable, P.E.I.902-658-3182

St-John20 Bayside Drive506-657-9982

DEN HAAN'S GARDEN WORLD

exit 18 off 101Annapolis Valley, NS(902) 825-4722www.denhaansgardenworld.comwww.denhaansgreenhouses.com

4-2133 Royal Windsor driveMississauga, Ontario

L5J 1K5(905) 403-GROW (4769)

1-877-263-6287www.secondnaturehydroponics.com

GIVE YOUR PLANTS WHAT THEY NEED

Peterborough Hydroponic Center347 Pido Road Unit 32 Peterborough OntarioPhone/Fax 745-6868Toll Free 1-866-745-6868Manufacturer of PHC Garden Productswww.hydroponics.com

For any information, comment or request, contact [email protected].

For sales and advertising, contact [email protected].

If you want to send us pictures and articles, please contact us at:

[email protected] with “submission” in the subject line and

we will get in touch with you.

COME AND GROW WITH US!

3132, Isleville St.Halifax, N.S.

902-454-6646B3K 3Y5

4 Ontario locations: Ottawa, Gloucester,

Mississauga, North York

1-800-489-2215www.hydroponix.com

Hydroponics, fertilizers, lightingHome of Optimum Hydroponix®

bma404 Maitland Drive #2Belleville, ON K8N 4Z5(613) 967-9888www.bmacanada.com

Page 58: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

5�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

Photos: Summ

um &

Temp G

unSHOPPINGH

ortic

ultu

ral N

ovel

ties

Summum Super Boost: Summum’s Boost is a powerful supplement,

specifically designed for the flowering

stage. Its unique formula, consisting of

nutritive elements and hormones, promotes

a profusion of flowers and fruits. Added to a balanced nutrition, it

will provide a generous vegetative crop as well as an abundant floral

growth. You may use Summum Super Boost as soon as buds appear.

Simply add 2 gr of the product per 10 litres of nutritive solution.

P.S.

Summum O2 Hydrogen Peroxide: Summum O

2 provides numerous benefits to

the plants. It helps germination, maintains

the nutritive solution active and keeps the

roots clean and healthy. It disinfects and

prevents fungal diseases. Finally, it will

provide the oxygen needed for the absorption of the nutrients.

You may add Summum O2 to every watering for soil gardening or

once every second day in a solution for non-soil gardening. Usage

instructions: add 1.5 ml per 4 litres of water or of nutritive solution.

P.S.

Summum B-1 Tonic For Plants: Summum B-1 blend is made up of

nutrients, vitamins and Norwegian

seaweed. Summum B-1 acts as a catalyst

directly on the chemical structure of the

plant to stimulate the active components

during the root growth and during the growing stage. It also acts

as a stabilizer, helping to reduce the stress caused by extreme

environmental changes. It helps the healing of damaged or

weakened plants. You may use it:

• on seedlings and cuttings: it helps the plant to establish the root

system.

• for transplantation: it considerably reduces the transfer shock and

encourages root development.

• for other problems: fungal infections and insects, nutritional

deficiency, etc. Using Summum B-1 after the adequate treatment

will help the healing and recovery of the plant.

• Environment: transport, excessive temperature, etc. It reduces

stress and helps the healing and recovery of the plant.

Guaranteed Analysis: total nitrogen (N) = 1.0%; available

phosphoric acid (P2O

5) =1.0%; soluble potassium (K

2O) = 1.5 %;

vitamin B-1, humic acid, seaweed extract.

Usage instructions: always shake the container well before use;

add the correct quantity of Summum B-1* to the water or to the

nutritive solution; mix well and balance the pH.

*Applications (per week): 1 to 2 ml/L (foliar application: 1ml/L,

transplantation: 2 ml/L, other problems: 2ml/L).

P.S.

Pro Exotics Temp Gun Non-Contact Infrared Temperature Gun PE1 and Laser Sighted Non-Contact Infrared Thermometer PE2The Pro Exotics Temp Guns are terrific tools to give immediate and

accurate non-contact surface temperatures. Easily fine tune your

understanding and comprehension for your particular application,

hobby, or industry. They are ideal for horticulture, gardening,

facility maintenance, cooking, food service, automotive, radio

control and animal care.

Simply aim the thermometer at the target and press the “Scan”

button to display the surface temperature. The distance to target

ratio is 1:1, therefore the thermometer should be positioned as

close to the target as possible. You can change the reading mode

from ‘Cº’ to ‘Fº’. The PE1 has a default emissivity of 0.95, and the

PE2 has a default emissivity of 0.05~1 adjustable. It’s a real wrist

strap! A great tool for a great experience.

Be aware that those tools do not read through glass and do not read

core body temperatures – those units read surface temperatures

only. And do not point the laser of the PE2 model into your eye

– or anyone else’s!

You can also check the websites www.tempgun.com and

www.proexotics.com for the laser sight and high temperature

(2500ºF) units.

Metal case: available at www.tempgun.com.

T.I.G.

The Summum Products By P. Steph

PE1 PE2

Measurement range: -27ºF to 428ºF (-33ºC to 220ºC)

Accuracy: +/- 2ºField of view: 1:1 optics ratioEmissivity: 0.95Battery: CR2032, includedBattery life: 40 hours of continuous

use with auto offDimensions: 25 x 35 x 95 mmResolution: 0.1ºC / 0.1ºFResponse time: 1 secondModes: Max – Min – Lock Weight: 36 gramsCalibration: NIST traceable

calibration available

Range: -27ºF to 428ºF (-33ºC to 250ºC)

Accuracy: +/- 2ºField of view (D:S ratio): 8:1 Emissivity: 0.05~1 adjustable Battery: Two CR2032 batteries,

included Battery life: 40 hours of

continuous use Display: LCDDimensions: 25 x 50 x 110 mmResolution: 0.1oC / 0.1oFResponse time: 1 secondWeight: 80 gramsSpecial features: Red sighting laser /

Modes: Max – Min – Lock

Calibration: NIST traceable calibration available

Warranty: 1 year

Page 59: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

New From Hydrofarm: The Mondo Reflector The Mondo Reflector from Hydrofarm is a new reflector which

offers a bigger, broader light spread at an incredible value:

• Broad even spread of light.

• Compatible with all system cord set, ensuring centering of all bulbs.

• Accepts all wattages and all sizes bulbs.

• Low profile, light weight aluminum for easy hanging — 40% less

weight than steel.

• Easily convertible into an air coolable version.

• One reflector does it all — fully airtight design with gasketed lens.

• Incredible value – Big reflector, small price.

Please contact Hydrofarm (www.hydrofarm.com) for ordering

information.

M.M.

Introducing the T5 High Performance Light Kit: The Newest Innovation From Hydrofarm Exclusively from Hydrofarm, the T5 High Performance Light

Kit includes uniquely designed hardware that allows you to link

multiple reflectors together.

Now you can easily create

a light configuration

tailored to suit your specific

growing area. The T5 High

Performance Kit fits most

T5 fluorescent grow lights,

is available with a 2-foot

or 4-foot reflector, and

includes special “linking” hardware.

• Modular and extendable to fit your every lighting need.

• Increases efficiency of any T5 Grow Light.

• Super reflective interior finish directs more light energy to your

plants.

• Hang it any way you like! Use it as an up light, down light, or

side light.

• “Daisy chain” up to 8 units in any rectangular design imaginable,

or link into single rows.

• No Tools Required — Connecting units together is quick and easy.

Please contact Hydrofarm (www.hydrofarm.com) for additional

product information.

M.M.

Phot

os: H

ydro

farm

SHOPPING

Page 60: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

Introducing MagiCalTechnaflora Plant Products has just launched a new product

called MagiCal. A highly enriched formulated blend of

magnesium, calcium and iron, MagiCal promotes vigorous

and healthy plant growth for both soil and soilless gardens.

Incorporated in your regular feeding program MagiCal

increases flower bud absorption and improves the nutritional

quality of plants while correcting nutrient related plant

deficiencies such as grape stem rot, grass tetany, tip burn in

lettuce, blackheart in celery, blossom end rot in tomato or

watermelon and bitter pit in apple. In addition to correcting

nutrient deficiencies, MagiCal also accelerates protein

syntheses, maintains high starch content in crops, improves

the density of fruit and the production of essential oils,

creates lush and greener foliage, and maintains a healthy

root system.

Designed for universal application, and

tested to work in conjunction with

any premium brand of nutrients

in our industry, MagiCal is for

customers whose gardens require

bolstered levels of magnesium and/

or calcium. MagiCal is scientifically

formulated to make extra cagnesium

and calcium readily available during

vigorous plant development. These

elements are highly essential and

can often times be deficient in

both soil and hydroponic systems.

Completely soluble and clear of any

sediment, MagiCal will mix with ease

into any solution providing an instantly

available source of required nutrients. To learn more about

MagiCal or about other Technaflora Plant Products visit their

website at www.technaflora.com.

L.M.

Plasmaponix: dare to grow!Here come the Plasmapockets.

Plasmaponix’s new pocket for vertical

growing is now on the market. The goal:

making you dare to grow where no one

has grown before: in vertically suspended

pockets. The pockets are soft, and are

suspended one above the other with

shower curtain hooks. The watering

system is comprised of a 6 millimeter hose

to properly irrigate the plants. Inserting

mesh pots or 8 centimeter rock wool cubes into the pocket

is ideal to facilitate nutrient access for the root mass.

To drain? Simply install a gutter at the base, or a T connection

system with a one centimeter hose. The hose will bring the

water to other plants or rather to the central recuperation

system, where it will be re-oxygenated and recycled.

Plasmaponix is an intelligent system, that should tickle your

imagination!

J.C.

The Garden GhostThe Garden Ghost scares birds and animals by emitting

a loud burst of air. A compressed can of

air with infrared motion detector lets

out a strong burst of air

when any heat-producing

mammal moves in

front of the Garden

Ghost. Each can has

over 200 bursts of air.

W.S.

Odor Controller AromaskOdor controller Aromask is an innovative

product that masks odors very

well. It does not leave that oily

aftertaste in your throat when you

consume your fruits and vegetables

after cleaning your growing space.

W.S.

Micro TimeMist Ultra Concentrated Metered Air Freshener PackWith over 3 500 bursts of odor control per bottle and a

time-release dispenser, this product from

TimeMist is very effective. With its ultra

concentrated premium fragrances, the

Micro TimeMist Ultra Concentrated

Metered Air Freshener Pack is one of

the more effective at controlling strong

odors. The TimeMist Plus utilizes

cutting-edge electronics to offer

simple and complete programmability.

It allows you to control fragrance intensity using spray

settings (light, medium and heavy) that fit your odor

needs. It is also very discreet. Sophistication meets

intelligence in a programmable dispenser.

T.I.G.

Buckeye International Green Apple Odor EliminatorThe Green Apple odour eliminator from Buckeye International will

not stain fabric, has a neutral pH and is biodegradable. Odour and

appearance: thin liquid with fruity fragrance. It gently diffuses its

�0THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

Photos: Plasmaponix, Technaflora &

D.R

.SHOPPING

Page 61: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)
Page 62: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

�2THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

SHOPPINGPhotos: W

orm’s W

ay, Higrocorp &

D.R

.

green apple fragrance into your house, growing

space, shed, etc.

This product is available by the gallon, in an Action

Pac, and in 55-gallon drum packaging.

T.I.G.

TimeMist Extra Programmable Dispenser This fragrance dispenser from TimeMist, one of the twelve models

available from this company, offers programming features like

time of day, start/stop times with light (30 minutes), medium (15

minutes) or heavy (7.5 minutes) spray settings, basic on/off control,

LED service reminder and a 30-day refill life.

Other features: audio service reminder, LED battery

replacement reminder, lifetime quality guarantee. This

product utilizes 2 “C” cell batteries. This dispenser is

specifically designed for use with TimeMist and Clean

Air Purge metered aerosols. Visit www.timemist.

com.

T.I.G.

Molexit Even though moles aerate the soil and eat

insect pests that might otherwise

plague the lawn and garden,

most home and business owners

aren’t keen to the unsightly trails

they leave behind. Castor-oil

based Molexit is easy to apply and naturally deters moles without

harming them or the environment. Extensive testing of Molexit

done by the Department of Forestry at the University of Kentucky

revealed no mole activity for up to six weeks in 80% of the treated

area. One 3kg box of Molexit covers up to half an acre, available at

earth-friendly garden centers nationwide.

K.B.

SaferGro Expands OMRI-Listed Offerings Weed Zap and pH Down are the latest additions to SaferGro’s

line of garden products certified by the Organic Materials Review

Institute (OMRI). The non-toxic formulation of cinnamon oil and

vinegar in Weed Zap inhibits plant growth and successfully controls

unwanted weeds. Safe to use around people and pets, Weed Zap

is a non-selective foliar herbicide available in a 1 litre ready-to-

use spray as well as pint and quart concentrates. Meanwhile, the

organic acids in pH Down improve nutrient uptake

by lowering the pH of alkaline soils and hydroponics

solutions. Visit your favourite year ‘round garden

center for information on these and other SaferGro

products.

K.B.

Sunleaves Introduces Soil Sweetener All-natural Sunleaves Soil Sweetener is a sensible

solution for environmentally-conscious gardeners

looking to raise the pH of overly acidic soils or simply

turn their blue hydrangeas blush. The pulverized

dolomitic limestone in Soil Sweetener consistently

slow-releases calcium and magnesium to prevent any

associated plant burn. Each economical 2 kg bag of Soil Sweetener

covers approximately 4.6 square metres. Please visit www.

sunleaves.com to learn more about Soil Sweetener and find where

to buy it in your area.

K.B.

Timing Devices Remember So You Don’t Have To Keep your gardening tasks on track with easy-to-use Digital Timer

Strips and Raindrip Dual Station Water Timers. Excellent for

powering up multiple fans, propagation mats and other

indoor electronics, each 125-volt Digital Timer Strip

features eight total outlets; four can be

programmed in 24-hour increments

up to seven days in advance. And to

simplify watering chores outdoors, the

battery-operated Raindrip Dual Station Water

Timer allows you to automatically water two

separate garden areas from one water source by

setting the individual frequency and duration of each timer outlet.

Digital Timer Strips and Dual Station Water Timers are available

nationwide. Stop in your favourite garden center to find out more.

K.B.

Organa Guano from HigrocorpWe knew it was organic — now the Organic Material Review

Institute agrees with us too. The innovative OMRI

listed Organa Guano from Higrocorp is a natural

organic flowering stimulant derived from

fruit eating bats. Higrocorp does the work of

Mother Nature by predigesting the phosphorus

so it’s readily available. The product also binds

calcium, iron and zinc thus allowing 100% of

the phosphorus to be readily available to your

plant. Organa Guano stimulates early flowering, contains beneficial

bacteria, increases the number of flower sites, enhances aroma

and improves taste. This product is non-burning and contains no

harmful odour or dust. The highly efficient liquid is affordable

(3.8 litres = 5 kilograms of fossilized powder). Even under ideal

conditions, powdered fossilized guano is not available to plants for

at least one year. If you are looking to pack extra weight on your

crop it can now be achieved organically. For more information and

a list of distributors, please visit organaponics.com.

T. K.

Page 63: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)
Page 64: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

��THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

Photos: Canna & D

.R.

Q & A

Q Hi!

I am having trouble with a young cutting of an indoor plant: the

leaves are yellowing in an irregular pattern, at the extremities and

on the surface. It seems to happen more on the leaves between the

oldest and the newest. Here are my growing conditions: in soil, pH

6, MH250 neon, average temperature 23, one month old cuttings.

Thanks!

Manu

A Hello Manu,

The yellowing of the leaves could be caused by a few different things. It is

possible that the plant is being over watered, causing the roots to drown

and therefore choke out the corresponding leaves on the plant. Most plants

need the roots to dry a little bit before more water is given; if the soil is still

moist when you go to water, let it dry for a day or two and then check again.

I have seen water-logged plants recover beautifully when left to dry

out from over watering.

If it is not caused by over watering and is a well rooted cutting, it could

be looking for nutrients that are not being provided. Try giving it a

feeding with a food for vegetative growth and add some B1 to help

correct a nutrient deficiency (follow the nutrient directions and be

patient, don’t add a double dose, too much is worse than not enough).

Once a cutting takes root, it can start growing very quickly and its

nutrient needs will change. A healthy rooted plant will deplete the soil

of nutrients faster than a non-rooted cutting. If you have been feeding it

properly, the subsequent growth may have caused the plant to become root

bound and you will need to transplant it to a larger container to let the roots

spread out. To check if a plant is root bound, simply lift up the container and

look at the drainage holes. If there are roots coming out of the holes, there

is a good chance it is time to pot-up. If your container has no

drainage holes, gently tap the sides of the container to loosen

the soil and gently slide the plant and soil out. If there is a mesh

of roots tightly wrapped around the bottom or sides of the soil,

you need a larger pot. When you transplant a root bound plant

you can soak it in Canna’s Cannazym, which helps break down

old and unused roots, allowing for new growth of roots and a

healthy plant. Again I would recommend adding some B1 to

ease the stress of transplanting.

Your growing conditions seem to be in check, so keep an eye on the

watering, feeding and transplanting. Knowing how long your plant can go

between waterings will help the rest fall into place.

Edward Jackson

Q Hi!

Hi. What does soluble Miracle-Gro do, or other similar

flowering “boosts” (if they exist)? And would you

know a good store or two, or companies that offer

natural nutrients for indoor plants?

Thanks!

Seb

A Hello Seb,

Miracle-Gro Ultra Bloom is a water–soluble plant food for

blooming plants, which provides nutrients in a different quantity than for

plants still in the vegetative growth stage. Most flowering boosts supply

a plant with low levels of nitrogen and higher levels of potassium and

phosphorus, which increase the size and sometimes the aroma of flowers

and fruit. One of the best natural supplements you can add to a regular

blooming nutrient regime is bat guano and it is available at most hydroponic

and indoor garden shops.

Edward Jackson

Q Hi!

I’d like to know more about the super product “Diva” (small bottle

of suspended concentrate against spider mites, etc.)

Thanks a lot!

M.T.

A Hi,

Diva, the phytosanitary additive created in 1994, is no longer commercialized

as of three years ago (final end of commercialization: 2003-06-06). The

product was pulled from the market following an abandonment request

by the manufacturing company itself, Aventis Cropscience UK Ltd. The

flowable concentrated suspension, made up of 333 gr/l of Chlorothalonil

and of 167 gr/l of Iprodione, was also sold under another commercial name,

Bolide (manufactured by Rhône Poulenc Agro France following the English

Diva reference product after the two companies merged in 1999). Contrary

to what you believe, this product, designed for the treatment of the aerial

parts of different varieties of peas, was not designed for spider mite control,

but to prevent and treat fungal infestations such as bull’s eye rot and

botrytis. The risks associated to that product were quite high:

• Dangerous for aquatic lifeforms;

• Risks and possibility of irreversible effects;

• Could lead to sensitization through skin contact;

• Toxicology risk: toxic.

QU ESTIONS & A NSW ERSOur indoor gardening and hydroponics experts are here to help. You have questions, we have answers. All you need to do is ask. Send your questions to: [email protected].

Page 65: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

Phot

o: IN

RA

, D.R

. & P

ower

Mas

ter

There are many biological and chemical ways of fighting spider mites. See

our older issues: we have often covered the topic. Have a good harvest!

B.B.

(Source: Catalogue des produits phytopharmaceutiques et de leurs usages, des matières fertilisantes et des supports de culture homologués en France / French ministry of agriculture and fishing / http://e-phy.agriculture.gouv.fr).

Q Hi!

I recently got a several copies of your magazine and I’ve located a

product that is pictured and referenced in Volume 1, Issue 6 that

I really want to purchase. The article in the Shopping Novelties

section, page 63, Vol. 1, Issue 6, appears to be a cable suspension

system. I cannot find any information as to where I can purchase

these. Please find out from the articles author (Bill S.) where these

can be purchased. I have included a PDF scan of that page indicating

the photo of the item I seek. There are two pictured on the page

and I’m looking for the heavy duty one that is painted yellow and

circled on the scan. Your assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Many Thanks!

Tim Hahn

A Hi Tim,

The cable suspension system featured in the picture on page 63, in Vol. 1,

issue 6 is from the India based company PowerMaster. Their website is at: www.

springbalancers.com and their distributors in the U.S.A. and Canada are:

Powermaster Engineered Tools

1300 South Frazier Street, Suite 304, Conroe, TX, 77301, U.S.A.

Tel: +1-936-494-3501 Fax: +1-936-494-3505

E-Mail: [email protected]

Powermaster Midwest Ltd.

500 Pearl Street, Alton, IL, 62002, U.S.A.

Tel: +1-618-462-4113 Fax: +1-618-462-3713

E-Mail: [email protected]

Powermaster Tube & Torque

1262 Faucher Road, Casselman, Ontario, K0A 1M0, Canada

Tel: +1-613-764-0572 Fax: +1-613-764-3719

E-Mail: [email protected]

Web: www.tubetools.ca

The part of the text referring to this cable suspension system was missing in

the printed version of the article, and we apologize for that. You can read

the whole text that was supposed to be printed next to the picture in the

erratum at the beginning of this issue (page 4).

Best regards,

H.G.

Q & A

Left: healthy peas; right: infested peas

Page 66: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

��THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2

Photos: T.I.G., Jungle Products, Enviro-Lite &

D.R

.Q & A

Q Dear Sirs

Thank you for sending me a free issue of your new

magazine The Indoor Gardener Magazine, Vol. 1 – Issue

4. The subject matter looked interesting, but I had a

hard time reading most of the articles. There was not

enough contrast between the print and background.

I am enclosing one of the pages as reference. I do not

understand why it is necessary to use so much color when

printing articles. It really distracts from the subject matter.

A bold underline of a Web site address would do a much

better job of identifying the Web site address. I would

have subscribed to your magazine but not in its present

format.

Sincerely,

Evelyn A. Hoyt/Mt. Shasta Ostrich Ranch, Mt. Shasta, CA

A Dear Evelyn,

I hope you have noticed that we have hired a new graphic

artist, Anna Kanaras, since the last issue (vol. 2 – issue 1) to

solve this readability problem that many other readers have

also shared with us. In any case we will send you for free

these two last issues, hoping you will find them more to

your taste and that, now, you will not hesitate to subscribe

and therefore enter to win fabulous prizes (see page 20

of this issue)!

Sincere salutations

The Editors

Q Hello

I live in the USA and would like to subscribe to your magazine

but your order form states that it can only be paid in Canadian

dollars through international postal orders. I was wondering if an

international money order in US dollars would be adequate.

Thank You,

Tyler

A Hello Tyler,

Contrary to what our subscription form states, we do accept postal or bank

orders in US dollars, as long as they are printed on a voucher that bears the

“international” mention. We will fix this printing mistake on the subscription

form as of this current issue. Our apologies.

We would also like to take advantage of this answer to let our readers know

that as of this issue, we will no longer accept subscriptions from abroad,

except for the United States. Foreign subscriptions are too costly for the

shipping of only six issues a year, because this quantity is too small for Canada

Post to grant us a preferential rate. We apologize for any inconvenience.

Salutations

The Editors

Q Hello

I am an 18 year old male who has just recently moved of my parents’

home. I have always loved nature, plants, gardening, etc., and when

I found out about my local hydroponics store, “Waterworks”, I was

very excited. I am fairly new at plant care and gardening and thought

it wouldn’t hurt to write in and ask a question. First, I only have a

few plants growing right now in a soil medium, and I was wondering

if you have a good suggestion for a lamp that would save money as

well as give all of my plants the light they need. I have heard that a

high pressure sodium light would be most efficient, but is there a

good wattage for a small number of plants?

Also, I would like to subscribe to your magazine and be entered

into that draw if possible. I look forward to an enjoyable read and

wonderful tips!

Thanks,

Dillon Fauser, Lethbridge, AB

A Dear Dillon,

HPS lamps provide excellent light but also emit

quite a bit of heat (both the lamp and the ballast

give off heat), so if you decide to use them you

must also ventilate the area, allowing fresh cool air

in and evacuating the hot humid air, or else you may

cook your garden. The wattage is not determined

by the number of plants, but by the surface area

of the garden. As far as the lighting capability of a

high pressure sodium lamp goes, a 400 watt lamp will cover

a three foot by three foot area, a 600 watt will cover about

four and a half square feet and a 1000 watt will cover about

six square feet. Keep in mind that the higher the wattage,

the greater the heat. A solution to the heat caused by high

pressure sodium and metal halide lamps is to use a compact fluorescent

Enviro-Lite. They are 125 watt lamps that light about three square feet and

give off very little heat (plants can even touch the lamp and not burn). Using

two Enviro-Lites will give you about the same light coverage as a 400 watt

HPS with much less heat. I find they work well for seedlings, vegetative

growth and flowering on most plants, although some plants may require

the addition of another lamp for flowering.

Compact fluorescents are less expensive to buy,

draw less electricity and don’t give off as much

heat as HPS lamps. High pressure sodium lamps

give off much more intense light than compact

fluorescents, allowing for more vigorous

growth and flowering. Talk to the folks at your

local garden shop, let them know the size of

your garden and ask about the strong and

weak points of the different lighting options

available.

Edward Jackson

Distributed in the United States by Sun Gro Horticulture Distribution, Inc 15831 NE 8th Street, Suite 100 Bellevue, WA 98008 USADistributed in Canada by Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. 52130 RR65, PO Box 189, Seba Beach, AB T0B 2B0 Canada

© 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. All Rights Reserved.© 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Black Gold is a registered

trademark of Odin Enterprises II LLC. All Rights Reserved.

Page 67: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)

Distributed in the United States by Sun Gro Horticulture Distribution, Inc 15831 NE 8th Street, Suite 100 Bellevue, WA 98008 USADistributed in Canada by Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. 52130 RR65, PO Box 189, Seba Beach, AB T0B 2B0 Canada

© 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. All Rights Reserved.© 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Black Gold is a registered

trademark of Odin Enterprises II LLC. All Rights Reserved.

(1) Start with premium potting soil, Black Gold Cocoblend;

(2) Use a container that is suitable for hydroponic growing;

(3) Fill container with Black Gold Cocoblend. Remove the plant from its commercial container. Handle plant by root ball and allow the roots to spread. Wash the roots under tepid water to remove any organic matter. Cut broken or damaged roots. Cut the foliage to reduce its mass compared to that of the roots (That will allow the roots to gain strength.) Plant in the coco medium.

(4) Water as needed but do not over water;

(5) Here is a picture of the finished product – a beautiful potted plant.

“stevie d’s recipe for success”

1-800-842-3256www.sungro.com

Page 68: The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 2 (Reissue)