the indoor gardener magazine volume 3—# 5 (march/april 2008)
DESCRIPTION
ÂTRANSCRIPT
EDITORIAL
You have probably noticed that most large horticultural nutrient brands offer their product line in “two parts.” The novice gardener may wonder about that need for a nutrient product to be divided into two separate containers and thus to lead to a higher expense, since he is buying two products instead of one. Let’s see why this is.
The idea behind this marketing method is to offer customers a product with a two-speed action, hence the two parts. Indeed these nutrients are often divided into two formulas, one for plant growth, the other for fl owering. Formula number one, most often called “A”, is a soil biomass activator and contains the primordial nutritive elements for active growth. Part A contains nutritive elements that are readily available to the plant, allowing for an almost immediate absorption, which leads to visible growth result and are very satisfying to the gardener-customer.
Part A can contain ingredients as varied as nettle-based liquid manure, bat or sea bird guano, worm castings, untreated wood ashes (acting as a fungicide), and microscopic benefi cial fungi such as Trichoderma harzianum. The association of these ingredients leads to an important reinforcement of the root mass, and healthy roots make for a healthy, fast-growing plant.
Formula number 2, usually called “B”, brings in more complex elements, that have more impact on the fl owering stage. The complex elements do not degrade as fast; they slowly merge with the soil’s micro-organisms to give birth to magnifi cent infl orescences. The B part can contain plant protein extracts, supplements derived form crustacean exoskeletons, chelated nutritive elements specially designed for horticulture, etc. Up until here, I can still believe the manufacturers and use two-part nutrients...
But look around, and you’ll fi nd nutrients in four parts, two for growth (A1 + B1) and two for fl owering (A2 + B2), and even formulas in three parts (A + B + C) that could become six, and why not twelve... Help! A + B + C + ..., in the end, that adds up to a lot of ++ on the bill! With all this head-
scratching, I may, like most gardeners, go back to my Miracle-Gro that does
everything! Food for thought.
Bruno BredouxThe Indoor Gardener
MagazineFebruary 2008
Two-part Nutrients: Why?
4THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Phot
os: D
.R.
CREDITS & TABLE OF CONTENTS
Volume 3 – Issue 5March / April 2008
Published by: Green Publications
Publisher: J.M.
Managing editor: Bruno [email protected]
Contributing editor: Helene Jutras
Art Director: Anna Kanaras
Editorial coordinator: Bruno Bredoux
Collaborators in this issue:
Réal Adam, Eileen Allen, C.A., Bruno Bredoux, Dave Buckle, Julie Cornellier, Stan Daimon, Daniel Fortin, Steve Gallo, William Jacques, Helene Jutras, Grigg Kellock, Rob Kelly, Roxanne La-belle, Sylvie Laberge, Patrick La-berge, Fred Leduc, Théo Monk, Laura Murphy, A. O’Connor, Tony Olissoff, Jose Poblacion, Kees Ramselaar, J.-F. Savard, Alan Seshiki, Soma, Stephen, vieux bandit, Ethan Young.
Sales & advertising: Stan [email protected] Lydia [email protected]
Distribution: See the list of our distributors on our website.
Translation/Copy editing: Helene Jutras, trad.a.
Cover design: Anna Kanaras, after a photo by Patrick Laberge.
Illustrations: Anna Kanaras (see also the credits on each page).
Administration: R. [email protected]
Information: [email protected]
THE INDOOR GARDENER MAGAZINEP.O. Box 52046, Laval, Quebec, H7P 5S1, CANADAPhone: 450-628-5325 Fax: 450-628-7758www.tigmag.com
© 2008, Green Publications Vertes, Laval, Qc, CanadaArticles, iconographic representations and photographs contained in this magazine cannot be reproduced, in whole or in part, without the written consent of the Publisher.
Legal deposit: Second Quarter 2005. National Library of Canada. Bibliothèque nationale du Québec.
ISSN: 1715-0949
Printed in Canada by Litho Mille-Iles Ltée,Terrebonne, Quebec, J6Y 1N9
On
the
cove
r: D
ewy
fi ddl
ehea
d bu
d
Green Publications VertesGreen Publications VertesGPv
6 INTRODUCTION
MORPHOLOGICAL CHANGE, PHYSIOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT: UVB RAYS MODIFY THE CELLS OF PHYTOPLANKTON... FOR THE WORSE! By D.G.
10 ENVIRONMENT: THE HIMALAYAS RECYCLE CO2 BETTER THAN OTHER YOUNG MOUNTAINS By B.B. 12 NOTES & NEWS
18 HORTICULTURAL LIGHTING: THE ADJUST-A-WINGS REFLECTOR & THE ADJUST-A-WINGS’S COMPANION, THE SUPER SPREADER By J.-F. Savard
22 PLANT ADAPTATION: SHYNESS? By Sylvie Laberge
28 FIRST FILIAL GENERATION OR F1 HYBRID SEEDS By William Jacques
40 GROWING EXPERIMENT: HURRAH, IT’S FINALLY WORKING! By Stephen
42 ACCELERATING PLANT EVOLUTION: A QUICK LOOK AT HYBRIDIZATION
By Soma
44 PLANT HEALTH: PEST CONTROL WITH DOKTOR DOOM’S FOGGERS AND INSECTICIDE PLANT SPRAYS By Grigg Kellock
46 BEGONIAS AS INDOOR PLANTS By Daniel Fortin
48 BOTANICAL DICTIONARY: CLOVER
By B.B.
54 E-Z GREENHOUSE
By Fred Leduc
AND OUR USUAL FEATURES:
EDITORIAL (5) MUSIC FOR PLANTS (16) TABLE OF CONVERSIONS (16) GALLERY (32-35) INDUSTRY NEWS (36-39) AROUND THE WORLD (60-62) THE HYDROPONIC WORLD (63-65) Q & A (66)
VOLUME 3 — ISSUE 5 / MARCH — APRIL 2008
A+B
EDITORIAL
You have probably noticed that most large horticultural nutrient brands offer their product line in “two parts.” The novice gardener may wonder about that need for a nutrient product to be divided into two separate containers and thus to lead to a higher expense, since he is buying two products instead of one. Let’s see why this is.
The idea behind this marketing method is to offer customers a product with a two-speed action, hence the two parts. Indeed these nutrients are often divided into two formulas, one for plant growth, the other for fl owering. Formula number one, most often called “A”, is a soil biomass activator and contains the primordial nutritive elements for active growth. Part A contains nutritive elements that are readily available to the plant, allowing for an almost immediate absorption, which leads to visible growth result and are very satisfying to the gardener-customer.
Part A can contain ingredients as varied as nettle-based liquid manure, bat or sea bird guano, worm castings, untreated wood ashes (acting as a fungicide), and microscopic benefi cial fungi such as Trichoderma harzianum. The association of these ingredients leads to an important reinforcement of the root mass, and healthy roots make for a healthy, fast-growing plant.
Formula number 2, usually called “B”, brings in more complex elements, that have more impact on the fl owering stage. The complex elements do not degrade as fast; they slowly merge with the soil’s micro-organisms to give birth to magnifi cent infl orescences. The B part can contain plant protein extracts, supplements derived form crustacean exoskeletons, chelated nutritive elements specially designed for horticulture, etc. Up until here, I can still believe the manufacturers and use two-part nutrients...
But look around, and you’ll fi nd nutrients in four parts, two for growth (A1 + B1) and two for fl owering (A2 + B2), and even formulas in three parts (A + B + C) that could become six, and why not twelve... Help! A + B + C + ..., in the end, that adds up to a lot of ++ on the bill! With all this head-
scratching, I may, like most gardeners, go back to my Miracle-Gro that does
everything! Food for thought.
Bruno BredouxThe Indoor Gardener
MagazineFebruary 2008
Two-part Nutrients: Why?
4THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Phot
os: D
.R.
CREDITS & TABLE OF CONTENTS
Volume 3 – Issue 5March / April 2008
Published by: Green Publications
Publisher: J.M.
Managing editor: Bruno [email protected]
Contributing editor: Helene Jutras
Art Director: Anna Kanaras
Editorial coordinator: Bruno Bredoux
Collaborators in this issue:
Réal Adam, Eileen Allen, C.A., Bruno Bredoux, Dave Buckle, Julie Cornellier, Stan Daimon, Daniel Fortin, Steve Gallo, William Jacques, Helene Jutras, Grigg Kellock, Rob Kelly, Roxanne La-belle, Sylvie Laberge, Patrick La-berge, Fred Leduc, Théo Monk, Laura Murphy, A. O’Connor, Tony Olissoff, Jose Poblacion, Kees Ramselaar, J.-F. Savard, Alan Seshiki, Soma, Stephen, vieux bandit, Ethan Young.
Sales & advertising: Stan [email protected] Lydia [email protected]
Distribution: See the list of our distributors on our website.
Translation/Copy editing: Helene Jutras, trad.a.
Cover design: Anna Kanaras, after a photo by Patrick Laberge.
Illustrations: Anna Kanaras (see also the credits on each page).
Administration: R. [email protected]
Information: [email protected]
THE INDOOR GARDENER MAGAZINEP.O. Box 52046, Laval, Quebec, H7P 5S1, CANADAPhone: 450-628-5325 Fax: 450-628-7758www.tigmag.com
© 2008, Green Publications Vertes, Laval, Qc, CanadaArticles, iconographic representations and photographs contained in this magazine cannot be reproduced, in whole or in part, without the written consent of the Publisher.
Legal deposit: Second Quarter 2005. National Library of Canada. Bibliothèque nationale du Québec.
ISSN: 1715-0949
Printed in Canada by Litho Mille-Iles Ltée,Terrebonne, Quebec, J6Y 1N9
On
the
cove
r: D
ewy
fi ddl
ehea
d bu
d
Green Publications VertesGreen Publications VertesGPv
6 INTRODUCTION
MORPHOLOGICAL CHANGE, PHYSIOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT: UVB RAYS MODIFY THE CELLS OF PHYTOPLANKTON... FOR THE WORSE! By D.G.
10 ENVIRONMENT: THE HIMALAYAS RECYCLE CO2 BETTER THAN OTHER YOUNG MOUNTAINS By B.B. 12 NOTES & NEWS
18 HORTICULTURAL LIGHTING: THE ADJUST-A-WINGS REFLECTOR & THE ADJUST-A-WINGS’S COMPANION, THE SUPER SPREADER By J.-F. Savard
22 PLANT ADAPTATION: SHYNESS? By Sylvie Laberge
28 FIRST FILIAL GENERATION OR F1 HYBRID SEEDS By William Jacques
40 GROWING EXPERIMENT: HURRAH, IT’S FINALLY WORKING! By Stephen
42 ACCELERATING PLANT EVOLUTION: A QUICK LOOK AT HYBRIDIZATION
By Soma
44 PLANT HEALTH: PEST CONTROL WITH DOKTOR DOOM’S FOGGERS AND INSECTICIDE PLANT SPRAYS By Grigg Kellock
46 BEGONIAS AS INDOOR PLANTS By Daniel Fortin
48 BOTANICAL DICTIONARY: CLOVER
By B.B.
54 E-Z GREENHOUSE
By Fred Leduc
AND OUR USUAL FEATURES:
EDITORIAL (5) MUSIC FOR PLANTS (16) TABLE OF CONVERSIONS (16) GALLERY (32-35) INDUSTRY NEWS (36-39) AROUND THE WORLD (60-62) THE HYDROPONIC WORLD (63-65) Q & A (66)
VOLUME 3 — ISSUE 5 / MARCH — APRIL 2008
A+B
Phot
o: B
runo
Bre
doux
INTRODUCTION
What Causes The Disappearance Of Phytoplankton?The main culprit of the decrease of Earth’s phytoplankton populations is the hole in the ozone layer. Indeed, less ozone in our atmospheric layer creates a passage in the sky, giving the most dangerous ultraviolet rays access to the surface of the earth. Among ultraviolet rays, UVBs have an extremely alarming reputation. Not only do doctors attribute them some eye diseases and skin cancers, but it seems they are also responsible for the general weakening of the immune system in persons who are exposed to them for a certain period. UVB rays (290 to 320 nanometres in the light spectrum) modify the cells of phytoplankton and lead to its disappearance. Early conclusions give cause for concern. If we do not eliminate 85% of chlorofl uorocarbon emissions (these “miracle” artifi cial molecules created by man and supposedly good for everything: propelling aerosol sprays, evacuating calories from refrigerators, cleaning out electronic circuit-boards, etc.), the hole in the ozone layer will not vanish. It was long believed that chlorofl uorocarbons were harmless because their molecules were defi ned as inert, but that was a serious mistake. In fact, they have the ability to remain active in the atmosphere and to always soar higher. When they reach the middle atmosphere, the rays of the sun disassociate them and free the chlorine which was, until then, trapped within their chemical composition. It is this chlorine, freed in our atmosphere, which destroys the ozone.
The ozone layer (were it intact) deviates the sun’s ultraviolet rays and prevents their penetration all the way to the planet’s surface. Unfortunately, in places where the ozone layer has holes, UV rays have a clear path. According to the best scientifi c hypotheses, these holes would repair themselves in approximately 50 years... if we did not contribute any more damage. Our atmosphere is most fragile above the poles, where it no longer fi lters the dangerous UV rays. Citizens
6THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photos: Futura Sciences & Bruno Bredoux
INTRODUCTION
Biologists and environmental experts are worried about the disappearance of phytoplankton, the fi rst link of the oceanic food chain and the “fi lter” for the excess CO2 responsible for the greenhouse effect. It is a chain reaction that could be fatal to mankind...
The Usefulness of PhytoplanktonPhytoplankton is not only the basic food element for numerous animal and aquatic populations. It is also an essential link in the transformation of carbon dioxide, and thus an ally of the fi ght against the climactic and environmental dangers of the greenhouse effect. Indeed, like all plants, phytoplankton’s role includes the absorption of the excess CO2 in its natural habitat and its transformation into carbohydrates through photosynthesis. It thus helps to control the rate of greenhouse gases in the atmosphere. Phytoplankton also actively participates in the oxygen exchanges between the aquatic environment and the atmosphere. Scientists have studied the natural habitat of phytoplankton and have discovered that it is more likely to be found in abundance in water that contains a high concentration of dissolved iron. Recent studies have confi rmed the important role of iron in the development of the organisms that form phytoplankton, and, as a consequence,
their infl uence on the conversion of excess CO2. It was even discovered that some varieties of phytoplankton adapt to new environments and can even manage to survive in water with a very low iron concentration.
In aquatic environments, there are many processes to transform carbon, nitrogen, phosphorus, silica, and to have them circulate between the area’s subdivisions of the ecosystem: phytoplankton, heterotrophy and nitrifying bacteria, zooplankton, water/sediment interface exchanges, and the fi xation (also called “adsorption”) of free phosphate molecules. In environments with an important population
of phytoplankton (plant life) and zooplankton (animal life), there is a high rate of oxygen exchange. If a single element vanishes, however, the entire environmental chain is broken. Most effects of the disappearance of phytoplankton dramatically favour the development of nitrifying bacteria. This implies, in the long run, an imbalance of the aquatic ecosystem and of its biochemistry. A dangerous chain reaction can cancel out the benefi cial effects of the various chemical operations, until the disappearance of some animal or plant species that depend on phytoplankton, and, indirectly, of the species who depend on the fi rst species to survive. Emergency measures must be taken.
Morphological Change, Morphological Change, Physiological DevelopmentPhysiological DevelopmentUVB Rays Modify The Cells Of UVB Rays Modify The Cells Of Phytoplankton... For The Worse!Phytoplankton... For The Worse!
Imitation is considered the best form of flattery. Why settle for imitations, when you can have the original.
AXC fans have been there from the beginning, and still continue to silently out-perform.
Complete with pre-wired 120 Volt power cords, AXC fans are available in sizes from 4” to 14”. Air move-ment ranges from 106 cfm to 1400 cfm.
Continental Fan Manufacturing Inc.Tel: 800-779-4021 www.continentalfan.com
Aeroflo Inc.Tel: 905-890-6192 www.aeroflo.com
USA
CANADA
Phot
o: B
runo
Bre
doux
INTRODUCTION
What Causes The Disappearance Of Phytoplankton?The main culprit of the decrease of Earth’s phytoplankton populations is the hole in the ozone layer. Indeed, less ozone in our atmospheric layer creates a passage in the sky, giving the most dangerous ultraviolet rays access to the surface of the earth. Among ultraviolet rays, UVBs have an extremely alarming reputation. Not only do doctors attribute them some eye diseases and skin cancers, but it seems they are also responsible for the general weakening of the immune system in persons who are exposed to them for a certain period. UVB rays (290 to 320 nanometres in the light spectrum) modify the cells of phytoplankton and lead to its disappearance. Early conclusions give cause for concern. If we do not eliminate 85% of chlorofl uorocarbon emissions (these “miracle” artifi cial molecules created by man and supposedly good for everything: propelling aerosol sprays, evacuating calories from refrigerators, cleaning out electronic circuit-boards, etc.), the hole in the ozone layer will not vanish. It was long believed that chlorofl uorocarbons were harmless because their molecules were defi ned as inert, but that was a serious mistake. In fact, they have the ability to remain active in the atmosphere and to always soar higher. When they reach the middle atmosphere, the rays of the sun disassociate them and free the chlorine which was, until then, trapped within their chemical composition. It is this chlorine, freed in our atmosphere, which destroys the ozone.
The ozone layer (were it intact) deviates the sun’s ultraviolet rays and prevents their penetration all the way to the planet’s surface. Unfortunately, in places where the ozone layer has holes, UV rays have a clear path. According to the best scientifi c hypotheses, these holes would repair themselves in approximately 50 years... if we did not contribute any more damage. Our atmosphere is most fragile above the poles, where it no longer fi lters the dangerous UV rays. Citizens
6THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photos: Futura Sciences & Bruno Bredoux
INTRODUCTION
Biologists and environmental experts are worried about the disappearance of phytoplankton, the fi rst link of the oceanic food chain and the “fi lter” for the excess CO2 responsible for the greenhouse effect. It is a chain reaction that could be fatal to mankind...
The Usefulness of PhytoplanktonPhytoplankton is not only the basic food element for numerous animal and aquatic populations. It is also an essential link in the transformation of carbon dioxide, and thus an ally of the fi ght against the climactic and environmental dangers of the greenhouse effect. Indeed, like all plants, phytoplankton’s role includes the absorption of the excess CO2 in its natural habitat and its transformation into carbohydrates through photosynthesis. It thus helps to control the rate of greenhouse gases in the atmosphere. Phytoplankton also actively participates in the oxygen exchanges between the aquatic environment and the atmosphere. Scientists have studied the natural habitat of phytoplankton and have discovered that it is more likely to be found in abundance in water that contains a high concentration of dissolved iron. Recent studies have confi rmed the important role of iron in the development of the organisms that form phytoplankton, and, as a consequence,
their infl uence on the conversion of excess CO2. It was even discovered that some varieties of phytoplankton adapt to new environments and can even manage to survive in water with a very low iron concentration.
In aquatic environments, there are many processes to transform carbon, nitrogen, phosphorus, silica, and to have them circulate between the area’s subdivisions of the ecosystem: phytoplankton, heterotrophy and nitrifying bacteria, zooplankton, water/sediment interface exchanges, and the fi xation (also called “adsorption”) of free phosphate molecules. In environments with an important population
of phytoplankton (plant life) and zooplankton (animal life), there is a high rate of oxygen exchange. If a single element vanishes, however, the entire environmental chain is broken. Most effects of the disappearance of phytoplankton dramatically favour the development of nitrifying bacteria. This implies, in the long run, an imbalance of the aquatic ecosystem and of its biochemistry. A dangerous chain reaction can cancel out the benefi cial effects of the various chemical operations, until the disappearance of some animal or plant species that depend on phytoplankton, and, indirectly, of the species who depend on the fi rst species to survive. Emergency measures must be taken.
Morphological Change, Morphological Change, Physiological DevelopmentPhysiological DevelopmentUVB Rays Modify The Cells Of UVB Rays Modify The Cells Of Phytoplankton... For The Worse!Phytoplankton... For The Worse!
Imitation is considered the best form of flattery. Why settle for imitations, when you can have the original.
AXC fans have been there from the beginning, and still continue to silently out-perform.
Complete with pre-wired 120 Volt power cords, AXC fans are available in sizes from 4” to 14”. Air move-ment ranges from 106 cfm to 1400 cfm.
Continental Fan Manufacturing Inc.Tel: 800-779-4021 www.continentalfan.com
Aeroflo Inc.Tel: 905-890-6192 www.aeroflo.com
USA
CANADA
Photo: Bruno Bredoux – Illustrations: Chris Shepperd
are mobilizing; scientists are worrying. They have discovered that the most critical problem is located above Antarctica: during the Southern winter, ice clouds fi x some compounds and leave chlorine free to roam. At the South Pole, cold air forms a gigantic whirlwind, but there is no exchange with the warmer air of neighbouring zones. Above Antarctica, the size of the holes is of major importance. Above the Arctic, the phenomenon is the same, although less in importance. Only the proportions differ. According to the image scientists use, the ozone layer above it looks like a “moth-eaten wool coat.” This could be because the cold air whirlwind in the North Pole is a very unstable and thus favours exchanges with neighbouring warm air, or simply because it is relatively less cold in the Arctic.
Dramatic Linked ConsequencesThis also implies, in the longer term, the disappearance of the species that feed on phytoplankton. The disappearance of phytoplankton leaves room for algae. When those algae die, they fall to the bottom of rivers, lakes, oceans, etc., and create a subaquatic graveyard. Diatoms, dinofl agellates, and coccolithophoridae are the main families of living organisms
that form phytoplankton. Phytoplankton, however, includes a majority of organisms smaller than 3 µm, which are called picophytoplankton. Organisms larger than 3 µm are classifi ed as nanophytoplancton and net phytoplankton. According to the latest scientifi c discoveries, almost 60% of phytoplankton biomass is made up of picophytoplankton. At this time, even with technological progress, it is practically impossible to precisely identify the taxonomic composition of picophytoplankton. Furthermore, scientists have noticed over the past 30 years that
the composition of phytoplankton is moving more and more towards small-scale organisms (less than 3 µm). This is no help to environmentalists: how do we protect something that we know so little about?
As for zooplankton, it is made up of microscopic invertebrate aquatic species: chaetognaths, larvaceans, sopepods, salpae, crab larvae, medusas, etc.
According to the most pessimistic predictions from scientists and environmentalists, we are heading straight for a wall, but few governments know it or are willing to admit it... With great phytoplankton populations on their
way to extinction, 70% of the Earth’s oxygen production could stop in the next 30 to 50 years. This means that, in the same period, the following could vanish:
• over half of all marine and soft water species;• 35% of batrachian species;• 30% of mammals species;• 70% of plant species (the most massive extinction, which will lead to the lost possibility for new medications, that will never be discovered);• 100% of phytoplankton will fall prey to the penetration of UVB rays in salt and soft waters (disturbing the balance within the CO2 cycle).
The most direct dramatic consequences will be:• the Arctic and Antarctic oceans absorbing CO2 without the ability to reject it, becoming completely saturated and unable to fulfi ll their regulation role;• the slowing down of the Gulfstream;• the intensifi cation of tsunamis and other natural disasters;• the appearance of new epidemics;• an exodus (the most pessimistic evaluations speak of 50 million people displaced);• etc.
This list is far from complete: its complete version would be too long to be published here, and some factors are so far unknown, and their consequences not yet thinkable... Can we displace phytoplankton populations to areas where the iron concentration found in the water is weaker, since phytoplankton seems to be able to adapt to it? Perhaps, but how? It is diffi cult to impose a human will over microscopic organisms. The only conclusion for now is that Mother Nature will only do better... when mankind has vanished!
– D.G., Sources: L’Express, Institut de recherche pour le
développement de Nouméa, Natura Vox and www.master.sduee.
upmc.fr/S_ech/P_hydro/arch/memoires2000/Bourlange2000.pdf
8THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
INTRODUCTION
Photo: Bruno Bredoux – Illustrations: Chris Shepperd
are mobilizing; scientists are worrying. They have discovered that the most critical problem is located above Antarctica: during the Southern winter, ice clouds fi x some compounds and leave chlorine free to roam. At the South Pole, cold air forms a gigantic whirlwind, but there is no exchange with the warmer air of neighbouring zones. Above Antarctica, the size of the holes is of major importance. Above the Arctic, the phenomenon is the same, although less in importance. Only the proportions differ. According to the image scientists use, the ozone layer above it looks like a “moth-eaten wool coat.” This could be because the cold air whirlwind in the North Pole is a very unstable and thus favours exchanges with neighbouring warm air, or simply because it is relatively less cold in the Arctic.
Dramatic Linked ConsequencesThis also implies, in the longer term, the disappearance of the species that feed on phytoplankton. The disappearance of phytoplankton leaves room for algae. When those algae die, they fall to the bottom of rivers, lakes, oceans, etc., and create a subaquatic graveyard. Diatoms, dinofl agellates, and coccolithophoridae are the main families of living organisms
that form phytoplankton. Phytoplankton, however, includes a majority of organisms smaller than 3 µm, which are called picophytoplankton. Organisms larger than 3 µm are classifi ed as nanophytoplancton and net phytoplankton. According to the latest scientifi c discoveries, almost 60% of phytoplankton biomass is made up of picophytoplankton. At this time, even with technological progress, it is practically impossible to precisely identify the taxonomic composition of picophytoplankton. Furthermore, scientists have noticed over the past 30 years that
the composition of phytoplankton is moving more and more towards small-scale organisms (less than 3 µm). This is no help to environmentalists: how do we protect something that we know so little about?
As for zooplankton, it is made up of microscopic invertebrate aquatic species: chaetognaths, larvaceans, sopepods, salpae, crab larvae, medusas, etc.
According to the most pessimistic predictions from scientists and environmentalists, we are heading straight for a wall, but few governments know it or are willing to admit it... With great phytoplankton populations on their
way to extinction, 70% of the Earth’s oxygen production could stop in the next 30 to 50 years. This means that, in the same period, the following could vanish:
• over half of all marine and soft water species;• 35% of batrachian species;• 30% of mammals species;• 70% of plant species (the most massive extinction, which will lead to the lost possibility for new medications, that will never be discovered);• 100% of phytoplankton will fall prey to the penetration of UVB rays in salt and soft waters (disturbing the balance within the CO2 cycle).
The most direct dramatic consequences will be:• the Arctic and Antarctic oceans absorbing CO2 without the ability to reject it, becoming completely saturated and unable to fulfi ll their regulation role;• the slowing down of the Gulfstream;• the intensifi cation of tsunamis and other natural disasters;• the appearance of new epidemics;• an exodus (the most pessimistic evaluations speak of 50 million people displaced);• etc.
This list is far from complete: its complete version would be too long to be published here, and some factors are so far unknown, and their consequences not yet thinkable... Can we displace phytoplankton populations to areas where the iron concentration found in the water is weaker, since phytoplankton seems to be able to adapt to it? Perhaps, but how? It is diffi cult to impose a human will over microscopic organisms. The only conclusion for now is that Mother Nature will only do better... when mankind has vanished!
– D.G., Sources: L’Express, Institut de recherche pour le
développement de Nouméa, Natura Vox and www.master.sduee.
upmc.fr/S_ech/P_hydro/arch/memoires2000/Bourlange2000.pdf
8THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
INTRODUCTION
Available in Coco or Hydro
• 1 liter of Coco or Hydro fertilizer
• 1 liter Pk 13/14 supplement
• 500 mL of Power Zyme
• 500 mL of Root Complex
• 500 mL of TnT Complex
• 10 mL of Super Vitamin
• 1 pen, note book and recipeincluded
50% cheaper than any other fertilizer from Holland
STARTER KIT
Made in Holland
Distributed by 1 877 777-0767
CLEVELAND GARDEN CENTER, Cleveland, OH - 216.383.0272•
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TEXAS HYDROPONICS, Austin, TX - 512.440.4789•
TEXAS HYDROPONICS, Dallas, TX - 214.744.4769
Other products and sizes available
12THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photos: AB
-CA O
stberg & D
.R.
NOTES & NEWSAB-CA Ostberg of Sweden Acquires Eclipse Enviro Inc.AB-CA Ostberg of Sweden, one of the world’s largest fan producers,
is excited to announce the acquisition of its North American
distributor, Eclipse Enviro Inc. of Cambridge,
Ontario. As of December 1st 2007 a new
division has been formed, Ostberg Americas
Inc. Ostberg Americas Inc. will provide North,
Central and South America with its complete
range of ventilation equipment. Under the
agreement, Arnie MacLean will remain as
president of the new corporation, while
Eileen Allen will continue in her role as VP
marketing.
– E.A.
PlugʼNʼGrow™ Extends Its Warranty Policy
Due to major quality improvements and very low numbers of
product returns under warranty, Nova Biomatique Inc., makers of
the Plug’N’Grow™ line of climate controllers, extends its warranty
to three years on all climate controllers, electronic and electric
products and accessories manufactured since
March 2007. Products manufactured before
March 2007 remain warranted being free of
defects and workmanship for a one year period.
The Plug’N’Grow™ CO2 generator models, now
in aluminium and offered in LP and natural
gas confi gurations, also remain warranted for
one full year from the date of purchase by the
original end-user. Indoor gardening, greenhouse
equipment stores and end-users may count on
the acclaimed Plug’N’Grow™ technical support toll free telephone
service at 1 888 577-6274 for all warranty and product information
inquiries. Also, much information on products, useful tips and
technical support information can be found on the Plug’N’Grow™
website at www.igrowing.com.
– R.A.
Additional Info on The Lighting Timer iGS-011L From PlugʼNʼGrow™
(Missing from our last issue’s announcement, p. 60): For lighting
loads on 240 V or 120 V but in excess of 15 A, the iGS-011L can
also control lighting load switcher boxes or panels activated by
external 120 V triggering cords such as the Plug’N’Grow™ iLS4
line with models for 120 V or 240 V lighting equipments. For more
information on the full line of Plug’N’Grow™ controllers, visit www.
igrowing.com, email [email protected] or call 888 577-6274.
– R.A.
Hydroponic Classics VII: Starting Marigolds In A Hydroponic GardenMarigolds are short-stem plants with heavy infl orescences that can
easily be started in a hydroponic rotating garden like the classic
model we discuss below. The gravity injection growing system
designed by Canadian company Innovamont has had its day in
the sun in 2003-2004, but remains a great hydroponic classic and
deserves closer inspection in this section of the magazine, which
aims to review the most sophisticated systems available on the
market, in the past and the present.
System Onset: The gravity
injection garden was launched
in 2003 and presented at
the Hydroponic and Indoor
Gardening show in eastern
Toronto during the spring of
2003. It was undeniably the star
of the show. The competition
proposed their more classic
systems — although they could
perform perfectly, they would
drip all over every time the rock
wool cubes were dipped into the reservoir. I attended the show and
saw the unveiling of this new rotating garden. The demonstrator
showed us that the Gravity Injection Growing System’s cubes did
not drip at all, yet remained suffi ciently moist to feed the plant with
everything it needs to grow in optimal conditions. Since the water
containing the nutritive elements only circulates once through the
system, the risk of root infection is dramatically reduced. Assembly
is quite simple. Anyone who can use common tools, such as keys,
pliers and screwdrivers, can manage it. The system was designed so
that the vast majority of gardeners who are a little handy can follow
the assembly instructions and set up their system in two hours. In
12THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photos: AB
-CA O
stberg & D
.R.
NOTES & NEWSAB-CA Ostberg of Sweden Acquires Eclipse Enviro Inc.AB-CA Ostberg of Sweden, one of the world’s largest fan producers,
is excited to announce the acquisition of its North American
distributor, Eclipse Enviro Inc. of Cambridge,
Ontario. As of December 1st 2007 a new
division has been formed, Ostberg Americas
Inc. Ostberg Americas Inc. will provide North,
Central and South America with its complete
range of ventilation equipment. Under the
agreement, Arnie MacLean will remain as
president of the new corporation, while
Eileen Allen will continue in her role as VP
marketing.
– E.A.
PlugʼNʼGrow™ Extends Its Warranty Policy
Due to major quality improvements and very low numbers of
product returns under warranty, Nova Biomatique Inc., makers of
the Plug’N’Grow™ line of climate controllers, extends its warranty
to three years on all climate controllers, electronic and electric
products and accessories manufactured since
March 2007. Products manufactured before
March 2007 remain warranted being free of
defects and workmanship for a one year period.
The Plug’N’Grow™ CO2 generator models, now
in aluminium and offered in LP and natural
gas confi gurations, also remain warranted for
one full year from the date of purchase by the
original end-user. Indoor gardening, greenhouse
equipment stores and end-users may count on
the acclaimed Plug’N’Grow™ technical support toll free telephone
service at 1 888 577-6274 for all warranty and product information
inquiries. Also, much information on products, useful tips and
technical support information can be found on the Plug’N’Grow™
website at www.igrowing.com.
– R.A.
Additional Info on The Lighting Timer iGS-011L From PlugʼNʼGrow™
(Missing from our last issue’s announcement, p. 60): For lighting
loads on 240 V or 120 V but in excess of 15 A, the iGS-011L can
also control lighting load switcher boxes or panels activated by
external 120 V triggering cords such as the Plug’N’Grow™ iLS4
line with models for 120 V or 240 V lighting equipments. For more
information on the full line of Plug’N’Grow™ controllers, visit www.
igrowing.com, email [email protected] or call 888 577-6274.
– R.A.
Hydroponic Classics VII: Starting Marigolds In A Hydroponic GardenMarigolds are short-stem plants with heavy infl orescences that can
easily be started in a hydroponic rotating garden like the classic
model we discuss below. The gravity injection growing system
designed by Canadian company Innovamont has had its day in
the sun in 2003-2004, but remains a great hydroponic classic and
deserves closer inspection in this section of the magazine, which
aims to review the most sophisticated systems available on the
market, in the past and the present.
System Onset: The gravity
injection garden was launched
in 2003 and presented at
the Hydroponic and Indoor
Gardening show in eastern
Toronto during the spring of
2003. It was undeniably the star
of the show. The competition
proposed their more classic
systems — although they could
perform perfectly, they would
drip all over every time the rock
wool cubes were dipped into the reservoir. I attended the show and
saw the unveiling of this new rotating garden. The demonstrator
showed us that the Gravity Injection Growing System’s cubes did
not drip at all, yet remained suffi ciently moist to feed the plant with
everything it needs to grow in optimal conditions. Since the water
containing the nutritive elements only circulates once through the
system, the risk of root infection is dramatically reduced. Assembly
is quite simple. Anyone who can use common tools, such as keys,
pliers and screwdrivers, can manage it. The system was designed so
that the vast majority of gardeners who are a little handy can follow
the assembly instructions and set up their system in two hours. In
Photo: Canna
any case, assembly is the weak point of all those “kit” systems, and
those who fear or get frustrated with the idea of assembly should
simply not begin such an adventure, or they will swear for days on
end, achieving no result but damning the manufacturer who is in
no way responsible for their lack of manual dexterity! The concept
behind a gravitational injection garden is what truly sets it apart
form the competition. It’s trademark? Watering at the root level
using microjets.
Programming and Use: It is fairly simple to program and
use the system. It can be useful, however, to adjust the system
when assembling it, to ensure it works at peak effi ciency. During
assembly, a gardener friend of mine who bought one of the fi rst
models and used it for many years had to slightly correct a few things
because the holes allowing some of the jets to reach the cubes
were not well aligned. A few minutes and the problem was solved.
He could have asked the manufacturer to fi x this, but the repairs
needed were so small that he turned himself into a technician. The
sensors that control the moment when the jets operate and shut
off, however, worked wonderfully well. Later models were quickly
improved. The manufacturer reacted very quickly once it was made
aware of the required correction. Wanting to improve the product
and to push it forward, the manufacturer took measures and
made additions to this already extremely high-performing system.
In the goal of making it easier for the neophyte gardener to
install his own rotating garden, Innovamont then modifi ed some
components of the system to make it even easier to set up. My
gardener friend has been using his home-fi xed system since 2003,
and he has noticed that the construction of the system has led to
practically no pathogens and no infections.
Other Advantages: The possibility of changing the size of
the axial rings allows one to bring the plants closer to the lamps,
which is quite an advantage. This option saves energy and allows
the plants to get more light over their entire surface. The watering
system allows for substantial savings of nutritive solution. The lack
of a reservoir facilitates maintenance and eliminates any risk of algae
development. The rock wool cubes are not moistened enough to
drip outside the system, but they are suffi ciently wet to fulfi l the
plants’ needs. On top of being much cleaner and economical than
its competition, this system offers the possibility of starting with the
cheapest system and then, following the gardener’s needs, to add
components to enlarge the system and to place more plants into
it. It remains one of the very few hydroponic gardens that can fi t in
so little space (in its smallest version). The machine injects precisely
the correct quantity of liquid nutrients into each rock wool cube.
Compared to other hydroponic systems and rotating gardens, this
saves a great quantity of nutrients. It also eliminates the need to
get rid of large quantities of nutritive solution each week (which
in turn means more savings). No more dripping soggy cubes that
drown your plants. Since the indoor garden’s humidity rate is
lower, there are fewer insect predators (fruit fl ies, midges, thrips,
etc.). Each slab supporting rock wool cubes is a distinct garden
– this prevents the propagation of disease. The support slabs are
made of stainless steel, solid and stable. They do not break like
those made of plastic and they emit no contaminants. Rotating
garden upgrades are available to go from 144 to 240 plants or to
336 plants. Marigolds are very easy to grow in this system. You use
the same basic structure, but you add supplementary support slabs
and accessories. With the programmable timer, you will no longer
delay your plants’ growth by drowning them in nutritive solution
because you cannot be in the garden at all times.
A Must on The Used Equipment Market: It is surprising to
see how quickly new models appear in the hydroponic industry.
This rotating garden, which was in its time a revolution onto itself,
is now found on used equipment
websites such as eBay, and even on
the classifi ed ads website of popular
Quebec TV network TQS... which is
always fi rst in line when the time
comes to air negative reports about
the hydroponic world! On their site,
the installation and functioning
of the machine is described, albeit
way too briefl y. For those who
are interested, however, here are
the links: http://lespac.tqs.ca/
search/detail.php?a=6059006 and
http:// lespac.tqs.ca /... /tout /trois-
rivieres/trois-rivieres/6059006/gi-
grow-240-jardin-rotatif.html. Even
though some may say it is obsolete,
this system still has its advantages and a good used system can
keep you going for a few years still. There is still some buzz around
this system, especially in Europe, where such a brand new system
can cost over 4,000 euros. From Switzerland to Belgium, then, the
hunt is on for a used system. An Internet user even contacted me
([email protected]), asking me to collaborate to an experiment
he wants to undertake following one of my previous articles in this
magazine (vol. 2, issue 3, pages 42-45). He sent me lists of results
illustrating the various steps of horticultural experiments with this
rotating garden, and they are excellent, when it comes both to yield
and quality. He also sent me information on the various equipment
and fertilizers used in his experiment. Throughout his cycle with
the used system, he used Canna products – their entire line is used
for a complete harvest; the latest entry in this successful line being
CannaBoost. So don’t hesitate, and check out the classifi eds and
the used equipment market! Have a great harvest!
– T.M. (with C.A.)
14THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
NOTES & NEWS
Photo: Canna
any case, assembly is the weak point of all those “kit” systems, and
those who fear or get frustrated with the idea of assembly should
simply not begin such an adventure, or they will swear for days on
end, achieving no result but damning the manufacturer who is in
no way responsible for their lack of manual dexterity! The concept
behind a gravitational injection garden is what truly sets it apart
form the competition. It’s trademark? Watering at the root level
using microjets.
Programming and Use: It is fairly simple to program and
use the system. It can be useful, however, to adjust the system
when assembling it, to ensure it works at peak effi ciency. During
assembly, a gardener friend of mine who bought one of the fi rst
models and used it for many years had to slightly correct a few things
because the holes allowing some of the jets to reach the cubes
were not well aligned. A few minutes and the problem was solved.
He could have asked the manufacturer to fi x this, but the repairs
needed were so small that he turned himself into a technician. The
sensors that control the moment when the jets operate and shut
off, however, worked wonderfully well. Later models were quickly
improved. The manufacturer reacted very quickly once it was made
aware of the required correction. Wanting to improve the product
and to push it forward, the manufacturer took measures and
made additions to this already extremely high-performing system.
In the goal of making it easier for the neophyte gardener to
install his own rotating garden, Innovamont then modifi ed some
components of the system to make it even easier to set up. My
gardener friend has been using his home-fi xed system since 2003,
and he has noticed that the construction of the system has led to
practically no pathogens and no infections.
Other Advantages: The possibility of changing the size of
the axial rings allows one to bring the plants closer to the lamps,
which is quite an advantage. This option saves energy and allows
the plants to get more light over their entire surface. The watering
system allows for substantial savings of nutritive solution. The lack
of a reservoir facilitates maintenance and eliminates any risk of algae
development. The rock wool cubes are not moistened enough to
drip outside the system, but they are suffi ciently wet to fulfi l the
plants’ needs. On top of being much cleaner and economical than
its competition, this system offers the possibility of starting with the
cheapest system and then, following the gardener’s needs, to add
components to enlarge the system and to place more plants into
it. It remains one of the very few hydroponic gardens that can fi t in
so little space (in its smallest version). The machine injects precisely
the correct quantity of liquid nutrients into each rock wool cube.
Compared to other hydroponic systems and rotating gardens, this
saves a great quantity of nutrients. It also eliminates the need to
get rid of large quantities of nutritive solution each week (which
in turn means more savings). No more dripping soggy cubes that
drown your plants. Since the indoor garden’s humidity rate is
lower, there are fewer insect predators (fruit fl ies, midges, thrips,
etc.). Each slab supporting rock wool cubes is a distinct garden
– this prevents the propagation of disease. The support slabs are
made of stainless steel, solid and stable. They do not break like
those made of plastic and they emit no contaminants. Rotating
garden upgrades are available to go from 144 to 240 plants or to
336 plants. Marigolds are very easy to grow in this system. You use
the same basic structure, but you add supplementary support slabs
and accessories. With the programmable timer, you will no longer
delay your plants’ growth by drowning them in nutritive solution
because you cannot be in the garden at all times.
A Must on The Used Equipment Market: It is surprising to
see how quickly new models appear in the hydroponic industry.
This rotating garden, which was in its time a revolution onto itself,
is now found on used equipment
websites such as eBay, and even on
the classifi ed ads website of popular
Quebec TV network TQS... which is
always fi rst in line when the time
comes to air negative reports about
the hydroponic world! On their site,
the installation and functioning
of the machine is described, albeit
way too briefl y. For those who
are interested, however, here are
the links: http://lespac.tqs.ca/
search/detail.php?a=6059006 and
http:// lespac.tqs.ca /... /tout /trois-
rivieres/trois-rivieres/6059006/gi-
grow-240-jardin-rotatif.html. Even
though some may say it is obsolete,
this system still has its advantages and a good used system can
keep you going for a few years still. There is still some buzz around
this system, especially in Europe, where such a brand new system
can cost over 4,000 euros. From Switzerland to Belgium, then, the
hunt is on for a used system. An Internet user even contacted me
([email protected]), asking me to collaborate to an experiment
he wants to undertake following one of my previous articles in this
magazine (vol. 2, issue 3, pages 42-45). He sent me lists of results
illustrating the various steps of horticultural experiments with this
rotating garden, and they are excellent, when it comes both to yield
and quality. He also sent me information on the various equipment
and fertilizers used in his experiment. Throughout his cycle with
the used system, he used Canna products – their entire line is used
for a complete harvest; the latest entry in this successful line being
CannaBoost. So don’t hesitate, and check out the classifi eds and
the used equipment market! Have a great harvest!
– T.M. (with C.A.)
14THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
NOTES & NEWS
Photos: ww
w.coachella.com
& w
ww
.kraftwerk.com
NOTES & NEWS
Beware of the grandfathers of German electro; they are back
on the world’s stages after two years of absence. The last time
I saw them was in Toronto in 2004, and I think the concert was
exactly the same as that given in Montréal, in Reykjavik and in
Tokyo… It was almost the same concert as the one I had seen
in Paris at the Olympia in November 1991… Few surprises and
no interaction with the public. They adopt a calculated cool
attitude that is ridiculous at this point in their career. I understand
that this aristocratic pose is their trademark, but there is a world
between this sullen attitude and the reality of the concert.
Frozen on stage, with a severe look and clenched jaws, Hütter
and Schneider seem to terrorize their two colleagues. Since
you have had nothing to prove for 25 years, why not loosen
up a little, Herr Schneider und Herr Hütter? At least in Paris in
1991, you handed your “mini-calculator” to the lucky fi rst row
spectators, who could hit a button and play a little melody.
Kraftwerk, for me, is the summer of 1976 (Radio-Activität), the
summer of 1977 (Trans-Europ-Express), and the summer of
1978 (Die Roboten)… Especially that last one: I would play The
Man Machine LP on my orange and brown Bakelite portable
record player, singing melodies among the fl owering clover. An
unforgettable summer! And then, already comes the beginning
of the end... We can still count on Computer World (1981) and
the single Tour de France (1983), then the machine breaks
down and creativity vanishes. Tour de France was supposed to
be part of an album (Electro Pop) that was fi nally re-chewed
and recycled for the disappointing Electric Café in 1986. Then
in 1991, The Mix gave us bland versions of old hits. Years of
rumours and some recording sessions lead us to 2000, with
the bland jingle for the Hanover Universal Expo, Expo 2000.
Finally, in 2003, Kraftwerk seems to go full circle with Tour de
France Soundtracks, bringing us straight back to 1983! Those
who were at the vanguard of the avant-garde and created in
the 1970s the pattern of future sounds that would be copied
countless times have now become the
red lanterns of electronic music. In May
2003 at Montréal’s Metropolis, the messy
delirium of Señor Coconut Y Su Conjunto,
in which the group covered the German
quartet’s classic songs using salsa, was
refreshing and unexpected, something
old-timers Ralf and Florian now seem unable to provide in their
own creations.
Eh, as old fans, we can keep on hoping. And their scenic
arrangements are grandiose. After two years of absence,
Kraftwerk returns to the stage in Coachella, next April 25. Four
men in suits and ties, striking static poses, lined up behind their
laptops: it remains something to be seen! The movie Minimum-
Maximum, now on DVD, makes it obvious. And also featured
will be Portishead, Jack Johnson, Electric Touch, Gogol Bordello,
The Verve, Roger Waters, Love and Rockets (those last two are
also resurrected dinosaurs, don’t you think?), etc.
– B.B.
PS: Kraftwerk’s music must be good for plants: a farmer friend
of mine told me he plays their CDs in his stables and has noticed
that his cows give more milk!
Conversion TableLinear Measure (imperial to metric)1 inch 2.54 centimetres1 foot (=12 inches) 0.3048 metre 1 yard (=3 feet) 0.9144 metre
Linear Measure (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 millimetre 0.0394 inch 1 centimetre (=10 mm) 0.3937 inch 1 metre (=100 cm) 1.0936 yards
Volume (imperial to metric)Metric 1 (imperial) fl . oz. (=1/20 imperial pint) 28.41 ml 1 (US liquid) fl . oz. (=1/16 US pint) 29.57 ml 1 (imperial) pint (=20 fl . imperial oz.) 568.26 ml 1 (US liquid) pint (=16 fl . US oz.) 473.18 ml 1 (imperial) gallon (=4 quarts) 4.546 litres 1 (US liquid) gallon (=4 quarts) 3.785 litres
Volume (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 millilitre 0.002 (imperial) pint, 0.176 pint 1 litre (=1000 ml) 1.76 pints
Mass (imperial to metric)1 ounce (=16 drams) 28.35 grams 1 pound (=16 ounces) 0.45359237 kilogram 1 stone (=14 pounds) 6.35 kilograms Mass (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 milligram 0.015 grain 1 kilogram (=1000 g) 2.205 pounds
Temperature To convert Fahrenheit to Celsius, subtract 32 degrees and divide by 1.8. To convert Celsius to Fahrenheit, multiply by 1.8 and add 32 degrees.
Electronic Music for Plants (and Gardeners)Coachella 2008 – Kraftwerk Is Back!
Doktor Doom
Spider Mite
Knockout
applied to
the under side
of the foliage
Available at Bloomington Wholesale Garden Supply 1-800-316-1306 or
National Garden Wholesale 1-888-478-6544
Hydro Farm West 1-800-634-9990 and Hydro Farm East 1-888-780-4567
Wholesale Distributors wanted call Doktor Doom at 1-800-452-0023
www.doktordoom.com
Doktor DoomFoggers appliedafter a thoroughapplication ofthe DoktorDoom SpiderMite Knockout
FOR SPIDER MITEELIMINATION
DOKTOR DOOM TAKES INSECTS SERIOUSLY - WE KILL THEM
the one-two punchthe one-two punch
theuppercut
theover-headbomb
PREMIUM QUALITYINSECTICIDES
1theuppercut
2theover-headbomb
Photos: ww
w.coachella.com
& w
ww
.kraftwerk.com
NOTES & NEWS
Beware of the grandfathers of German electro; they are back
on the world’s stages after two years of absence. The last time
I saw them was in Toronto in 2004, and I think the concert was
exactly the same as that given in Montréal, in Reykjavik and in
Tokyo… It was almost the same concert as the one I had seen
in Paris at the Olympia in November 1991… Few surprises and
no interaction with the public. They adopt a calculated cool
attitude that is ridiculous at this point in their career. I understand
that this aristocratic pose is their trademark, but there is a world
between this sullen attitude and the reality of the concert.
Frozen on stage, with a severe look and clenched jaws, Hütter
and Schneider seem to terrorize their two colleagues. Since
you have had nothing to prove for 25 years, why not loosen
up a little, Herr Schneider und Herr Hütter? At least in Paris in
1991, you handed your “mini-calculator” to the lucky fi rst row
spectators, who could hit a button and play a little melody.
Kraftwerk, for me, is the summer of 1976 (Radio-Activität), the
summer of 1977 (Trans-Europ-Express), and the summer of
1978 (Die Roboten)… Especially that last one: I would play The
Man Machine LP on my orange and brown Bakelite portable
record player, singing melodies among the fl owering clover. An
unforgettable summer! And then, already comes the beginning
of the end... We can still count on Computer World (1981) and
the single Tour de France (1983), then the machine breaks
down and creativity vanishes. Tour de France was supposed to
be part of an album (Electro Pop) that was fi nally re-chewed
and recycled for the disappointing Electric Café in 1986. Then
in 1991, The Mix gave us bland versions of old hits. Years of
rumours and some recording sessions lead us to 2000, with
the bland jingle for the Hanover Universal Expo, Expo 2000.
Finally, in 2003, Kraftwerk seems to go full circle with Tour de
France Soundtracks, bringing us straight back to 1983! Those
who were at the vanguard of the avant-garde and created in
the 1970s the pattern of future sounds that would be copied
countless times have now become the
red lanterns of electronic music. In May
2003 at Montréal’s Metropolis, the messy
delirium of Señor Coconut Y Su Conjunto,
in which the group covered the German
quartet’s classic songs using salsa, was
refreshing and unexpected, something
old-timers Ralf and Florian now seem unable to provide in their
own creations.
Eh, as old fans, we can keep on hoping. And their scenic
arrangements are grandiose. After two years of absence,
Kraftwerk returns to the stage in Coachella, next April 25. Four
men in suits and ties, striking static poses, lined up behind their
laptops: it remains something to be seen! The movie Minimum-
Maximum, now on DVD, makes it obvious. And also featured
will be Portishead, Jack Johnson, Electric Touch, Gogol Bordello,
The Verve, Roger Waters, Love and Rockets (those last two are
also resurrected dinosaurs, don’t you think?), etc.
– B.B.
PS: Kraftwerk’s music must be good for plants: a farmer friend
of mine told me he plays their CDs in his stables and has noticed
that his cows give more milk!
Conversion TableLinear Measure (imperial to metric)1 inch 2.54 centimetres1 foot (=12 inches) 0.3048 metre 1 yard (=3 feet) 0.9144 metre
Linear Measure (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 millimetre 0.0394 inch 1 centimetre (=10 mm) 0.3937 inch 1 metre (=100 cm) 1.0936 yards
Volume (imperial to metric)Metric 1 (imperial) fl . oz. (=1/20 imperial pint) 28.41 ml 1 (US liquid) fl . oz. (=1/16 US pint) 29.57 ml 1 (imperial) pint (=20 fl . imperial oz.) 568.26 ml 1 (US liquid) pint (=16 fl . US oz.) 473.18 ml 1 (imperial) gallon (=4 quarts) 4.546 litres 1 (US liquid) gallon (=4 quarts) 3.785 litres
Volume (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 millilitre 0.002 (imperial) pint, 0.176 pint 1 litre (=1000 ml) 1.76 pints
Mass (imperial to metric)1 ounce (=16 drams) 28.35 grams 1 pound (=16 ounces) 0.45359237 kilogram 1 stone (=14 pounds) 6.35 kilograms Mass (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 milligram 0.015 grain 1 kilogram (=1000 g) 2.205 pounds
Temperature To convert Fahrenheit to Celsius, subtract 32 degrees and divide by 1.8. To convert Celsius to Fahrenheit, multiply by 1.8 and add 32 degrees.
Electronic Music for Plants (and Gardeners)Coachella 2008 – Kraftwerk Is Back!
Doktor Doom
Spider Mite
Knockout
applied to
the under side
of the foliage
Available at Bloomington Wholesale Garden Supply 1-800-316-1306 or
National Garden Wholesale 1-888-478-6544
Hydro Farm West 1-800-634-9990 and Hydro Farm East 1-888-780-4567
Wholesale Distributors wanted call Doktor Doom at 1-800-452-0023
www.doktordoom.com
Doktor DoomFoggers appliedafter a thoroughapplication ofthe DoktorDoom SpiderMite Knockout
FOR SPIDER MITEELIMINATION
DOKTOR DOOM TAKES INSECTS SERIOUSLY - WE KILL THEM
the one-two punchthe one-two punch
theuppercut
theover-headbomb
PREMIUM QUALITYINSECTICIDES
1theuppercut
2theover-headbomb
18THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photos: Accent H
ydroponicsTECHNOLOGY
When it comes to choosing the proper refl ector for an indoor garden, it is important to make a bright choice. Known for a few years already as the best refl ector on the market, the Adjust-A-Wings refl ector by Australian company Accent Hydroponics offers unbeatable quality and a much higher output than its competition. This refl ector, made of hammered, twice anodized aluminium and covered with a layer of super refl ective baked paint (white or metallic, depending on the model), is recognizable to its bird wings shape. That concept, borrowed from the aviary world, allows the gardener to open the refl ector like the wings of a bird and thus to adapt it perfectly to the indoor garden.
Larger Surface Area CoveredThere is no way for a competing refl ector without the Adjust-A-Wings’s winged extension to cover the same surface area in growth space. The Adjust-A-Wings’s wingspan allows it to spread light uniformly across a surface area of 1.2 x 1.8 m. By way of comparison, most refl ectors cannot light an area larger than 1.2 x 1.2 m (1.2 x 1.5 m in the best of cases). The Australian company chose to replace the fi xation chains by thin metallic strands, facilitating the lateral stabilization of the refl ector. The refl ector is sold as a kit and is very easy to put together. Its aluminium mounting, which holds the porcelain and the bulb, is extremely light and easy to manipulate. The aluminium brackets used to hang the refl ector also add to its lightness and solidity.
No Hot Air StorageThe Adjust-A-Wings provides homogenous lighting for plants and an improved heat distribution. Traditional refl ectors trap the lighting heat in their center, often frying the apex of the plants just below them. Here, warm air is never trapped by the refl ector, which in turn does not overheat. Heat is better dissipated throughout the garden. Moreover, every corner of the garden is equally lit. This makes for more homogenous harvests.
A d j u s t - A - W i n g s refl ectors come in three models: small, medium, and large, and with two types of coatings: shiny white (Defender model) or metallic steel (Avenger model). I suggest the use of 45 cm Pyrex® neon tubes, because they best evacuate lighting heat: use of 400 W neon for the small model, a 600 W neon for the medium, or 1000 W (or two 400 W) for the larger model. See the manufacturer’s presentation at: www.accenthydroponics.com/prod_info/adjustawing_info1.html.
Horticultural Lighting: The Adjust-A-Wings Ref lector
Okay, so it looks like a fl yswatter. It is the Super
Spreader (or Heat Shield) made by Accent
Hydroponics. It can be used on neon tubes
(250, 400, or 600 W) and is the perfect
companion for the Adjust-A-Wings refl ector. It acts as a shield
between the bulb and the plants’ apex, preventing the creation of
a heat spot under the bulb, a common fl aw in all types of refl ectors.
It is this heat concentration that often leads
to burns on plant leaves and forces gardeners
to keep at least a distance of 50 cm between
the plant’s apex and the bulb. By placing the
Super Spreader right under the bulb, you
help solve this problem and you can bring
the bulbs as close as 30 cm from the plants’ apex.
The Super Spreader improves the distribution of light and decreases
the heat felt by the plants without concentrating heat in the
middle of your garden. Your plants thus get more light and less
heat, because the light is better distributed, the crops are more
homogenous and the yields are higher. The Super Spreader is made
from anodized aluminium and covered by a coating that refl ects up
to 97% of the light emitted by the bulb.
It can be used with virtually any horizontal horticultural lamp
model. It comes in four different models. To fi nd out more, visit the
manufacturer’s site, at: www.accenthydroponics.com/prod_info/
superspreader_info1.htm.
The Adjust-A-Wings’s Companion, the Super SpreaderBy J.-F. Savard
Horticultural Lighting: The Adjust-A-Wings Ref lector
By J.-F. Savard
18THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photos: Accent H
ydroponics
TECHNOLOGY
When it comes to choosing the proper refl ector for an indoor garden, it is important to make a bright choice. Known for a few years already as the best refl ector on the market, the Adjust-A-Wings refl ector by Australian company Accent Hydroponics offers unbeatable quality and a much higher output than its competition. This refl ector, made of hammered, twice anodized aluminium and covered with a layer of super refl ective baked paint (white or metallic, depending on the model), is recognizable to its bird wings shape. That concept, borrowed from the aviary world, allows the gardener to open the refl ector like the wings of a bird and thus to adapt it perfectly to the indoor garden.
Larger Surface Area CoveredThere is no way for a competing refl ector without the Adjust-A-Wings’s winged extension to cover the same surface area in growth space. The Adjust-A-Wings’s wingspan allows it to spread light uniformly across a surface area of 1.2 x 1.8 m. By way of comparison, most refl ectors cannot light an area larger than 1.2 x 1.2 m (1.2 x 1.5 m in the best of cases). The Australian company chose to replace the fi xation chains by thin metallic strands, facilitating the lateral stabilization of the refl ector. The refl ector is sold as a kit and is very easy to put together. Its aluminium mounting, which holds the porcelain and the bulb, is extremely light and easy to manipulate. The aluminium brackets used to hang the refl ector also add to its lightness and solidity.
No Hot Air StorageThe Adjust-A-Wings provides homogenous lighting for plants and an improved heat distribution. Traditional refl ectors trap the lighting heat in their center, often frying the apex of the plants just below them. Here, warm air is never trapped by the refl ector, which in turn does not overheat. Heat is better dissipated throughout the garden. Moreover, every corner of the garden is equally lit. This makes for more homogenous harvests.
A d j u s t - A - W i n g s refl ectors come in three models: small, medium, and large, and with two types of coatings: shiny white (Defender model) or metallic steel (Avenger model). I suggest the use of 45 cm Pyrex® neon tubes, because they best evacuate lighting heat: use of 400 W neon for the small model, a 600 W neon for the medium, or 1000 W (or two 400 W) for the larger model. See the manufacturer’s presentation at: www.accenthydroponics.com/prod_info/adjustawing_info1.html.
Horticultural Lighting: The Adjust-A-Wings Ref lector
Okay, so it looks like a fl yswatter. It is the Super
Spreader (or Heat Shield) made by Accent
Hydroponics. It can be used on neon tubes
(250, 400, or 600 W) and is the perfect
companion for the Adjust-A-Wings refl ector. It acts as a shield
between the bulb and the plants’ apex, preventing the creation of
a heat spot under the bulb, a common fl aw in all types of refl ectors.
It is this heat concentration that often leads
to burns on plant leaves and forces gardeners
to keep at least a distance of 50 cm between
the plant’s apex and the bulb. By placing the
Super Spreader right under the bulb, you
help solve this problem and you can bring
the bulbs as close as 30 cm from the plants’ apex.
The Super Spreader improves the distribution of light and decreases
the heat felt by the plants without concentrating heat in the
middle of your garden. Your plants thus get more light and less
heat, because the light is better distributed, the crops are more
homogenous and the yields are higher. The Super Spreader is made
from anodized aluminium and covered by a coating that refl ects up
to 97% of the light emitted by the bulb.
It can be used with virtually any horizontal horticultural lamp
model. It comes in four different models. To fi nd out more, visit the
manufacturer’s site, at: www.accenthydroponics.com/prod_info/
superspreader_info1.htm.
The Adjust-A-Wings’s Companion, the Super SpreaderBy J.-F. Savard
Horticultural Lighting: The Adjust-A-Wings Ref lector
By J.-F. Savard
What Is Canna’s Substra Nutrient?What Is Canna’s Substra Nutrient?It is a nutritive element from Netherlander company
Canna that has been designed especially for rapid growth plants, which can be used on rock wool, perlite, or coco fi bre. Canna specifi cally developed it for inert growing mediums such as these. It has an optimal infl uence on the healthy development of plants. Canna Substra is best used in a growing system without recycling (drain-to-waste), but is also easy to use in systems that recuperate and reuse the nutritive solution. It is in fact
how many experienced indoor gardeners most often use it, no matter the advice of the manufacturer.
Canna’s Substra nutrient allows for an improved yield interms of both quantity and quality. This is because the product gives the possibility of carefully controlling the nutritive element input during growth and fl owering cycles.
Two types of Substra nutrients have been developed by the technicians and horticultural experts at Canna’s: one for the growth cycle (Substra Vega) and one for the fl owering cycle (Substra Flores).
Substra VegaSubstra VegaProper growth is crucial to the proper course of the next
s t e p , fl owering, as well as for the fi nal step, fructifi cation. For this, the plant needs numerous roots, new shoots, and new buds whose growth is healthy and reinforced. The Substra Vega nutrient meets the needs of the growth phase in an optimal fashion.
Substra Vega is adapted to inert culture environments; it ensures the maximum absorption of nutritive elements and water penetration at the root mass level. Substra Vega is enriched with nitrogen compounds, iron chelates and trace minerals.
Substra FloresSubstra FloresFlowering and fructifi cation cycles are extremely short and tight. It is thus imperative to provide the plant with nutritive elements as quickly as possible. The crucial role of nutritive elements depends on the stimulation nutrient used. Substra Flores stimulates fruit development and contains all of the nutritive elements required by the plant during this ultimate stage.
The plant then needs less nitrogen, but more potassium and phosphorus. Substra Flores is rich in potassium, phosphorus, and chelated trace minerals (in directly absorbable form). These elements ensure excellent fl owering and abundant fructifi cation.
CannaZym, An Additional InputCannaZym, An Additional InputTo obtain even better results, we suggest that you add the CannaZym product during the last week, if and only if the growth environment is recyclable. CannaZym can be continuously added to the liquid nutrient solution (dissolution ratio: 1/400) or it can be added once a week (dissolution ratio: 1/100).
20THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photos: © 2008, Canna
HYDROPONIC CLASSICS VIII
Canna’s Substra Nutrient Line: Vega and Flores
By K. R.
H RA
AS
E
What Is Canna’s Substra Nutrient?What Is Canna’s Substra Nutrient?It is a nutritive element from Netherlander company
Canna that has been designed especially for rapid growth plants, which can be used on rock wool, perlite, or coco fi bre. Canna specifi cally developed it for inert growing mediums such as these. It has an optimal infl uence on the healthy development of plants. Canna Substra is best used in a growing system without recycling (drain-to-waste), but is also easy to use in systems that recuperate and reuse the nutritive solution. It is in fact
how many experienced indoor gardeners most often use it, no matter the advice of the manufacturer.
Canna’s Substra nutrient allows for an improved yield interms of both quantity and quality. This is because the product gives the possibility of carefully controlling the nutritive element input during growth and fl owering cycles.
Two types of Substra nutrients have been developed by the technicians and horticultural experts at Canna’s: one for the growth cycle (Substra Vega) and one for the fl owering cycle (Substra Flores).
Substra VegaSubstra VegaProper growth is crucial to the proper course of the next
s t e p , fl owering, as well as for the fi nal step, fructifi cation. For this, the plant needs numerous roots, new shoots, and new buds whose growth is healthy and reinforced. The Substra Vega nutrient meets the needs of the growth phase in an optimal fashion.
Substra Vega is adapted to inert culture environments; it ensures the maximum absorption of nutritive elements and water penetration at the root mass level. Substra Vega is enriched with nitrogen compounds, iron chelates and trace minerals.
Substra FloresSubstra FloresFlowering and fructifi cation cycles are extremely short and tight. It is thus imperative to provide the plant with nutritive elements as quickly as possible. The crucial role of nutritive elements depends on the stimulation nutrient used. Substra Flores stimulates fruit development and contains all of the nutritive elements required by the plant during this ultimate stage.
The plant then needs less nitrogen, but more potassium and phosphorus. Substra Flores is rich in potassium, phosphorus, and chelated trace minerals (in directly absorbable form). These elements ensure excellent fl owering and abundant fructifi cation.
CannaZym, An Additional InputCannaZym, An Additional InputTo obtain even better results, we suggest that you add the CannaZym product during the last week, if and only if the growth environment is recyclable. CannaZym can be continuously added to the liquid nutrient solution (dissolution ratio: 1/400) or it can be added once a week (dissolution ratio: 1/100).
20THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photos: © 2008, Canna
HYDROPONIC CLASSICS VIII
Canna’s Substra Nutrient Line: Vega and Flores
By K. R.
H RA
AS
E
Phot
o: P
atri
ck L
aber
ge
BOTANYIn their original habitat, however, these plants are spectacular and often reach unexpected heights. Philodendrons fl ower continuously in certain cases. In the tropical forest or on the desert sands, these magnifi cent plants play a crucial role and participate in the planet’s life cycle. Feeding animals, holding the soil, producing oxygen... In our overheated houses, they pursue that role a little differently: air purifi cation, increase of the humidity rate, “psychological calming effect”... But if we asked “how do you feel, glorious begonia?”, what answer would we get? Adaptation, adaptation, adaptation!
May I tell you about shyness? We have all felt it at some point: an overly direct boss, a star’s hand to shake, a speech to give... but this is not what I want to tell you about. We are talking, rather, about the primary organization of the plant, the organization written in the gene, in the cell, in the seed or the shoot. That which allows for effi cient gas exchanges. That which allows the plant to establish an internal balance between the invested energy and the recuperated energy and is at the base of plant life. Shyness is the ability for any superior plant organism to move its leaves and stems – its assimilating system – in all directions in order to perform an optimal photosynthesis, which will then lead to an optimal growth.
In a slow and harmonious choreography, the African violet arranges its rosette in such a way that its leaves will not overly compete for light. The fern moves its troops, moving and removing its fronds, one towards the south, the other towards the north. Are these plants shy? Yes, incredibly and marvelously shy. True shade plants truly love it. Put them in the sun and they will fry. In a tropical forest, the percentage of light that reaches the ground is only 1%! And the light spectrum, a few centimeters from the nourishing substrate, is no longer what it was 30 meters high. Many wavelengths are absorbed by the foliage of the canopy, leaving only crumbs for the organisms of the undergrowth. It is thus primordial for the shade plant to benefi t from a perfect orientation.
22THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photo: Patrick LabergeBOTANY
Raise your hands if you have indoor plants! Those with their hands down, I know, have once had them. What happened to them? Fast, modern life – that’s what happened. Too much water, not enough, too much light, not enough... What would you say if you were taken from your natural life environment and dropped off on Mars? The answer: adaptation, adaptation, adaptation! Our begonias, philodendrons, bromelias and our geraniums are children of the low, humid tropical forest. Opuntia, cacti and stonecrop come from the arid deserts of the New World. With no experience of life on an eastern windowsill or on the corner of the coffee table, they have trouble adapting.
Plant AdaptationShyness?
By Sylvie Laberge
Phot
o: P
atri
ck L
aber
geBOTANY
In their original habitat, however, these plants are spectacular and often reach unexpected heights. Philodendrons fl ower continuously in certain cases. In the tropical forest or on the desert sands, these magnifi cent plants play a crucial role and participate in the planet’s life cycle. Feeding animals, holding the soil, producing oxygen... In our overheated houses, they pursue that role a little differently: air purifi cation, increase of the humidity rate, “psychological calming effect”... But if we asked “how do you feel, glorious begonia?”, what answer would we get? Adaptation, adaptation, adaptation!
May I tell you about shyness? We have all felt it at some point: an overly direct boss, a star’s hand to shake, a speech to give... but this is not what I want to tell you about. We are talking, rather, about the primary organization of the plant, the organization written in the gene, in the cell, in the seed or the shoot. That which allows for effi cient gas exchanges. That which allows the plant to establish an internal balance between the invested energy and the recuperated energy and is at the base of plant life. Shyness is the ability for any superior plant organism to move its leaves and stems – its assimilating system – in all directions in order to perform an optimal photosynthesis, which will then lead to an optimal growth.
In a slow and harmonious choreography, the African violet arranges its rosette in such a way that its leaves will not overly compete for light. The fern moves its troops, moving and removing its fronds, one towards the south, the other towards the north. Are these plants shy? Yes, incredibly and marvelously shy. True shade plants truly love it. Put them in the sun and they will fry. In a tropical forest, the percentage of light that reaches the ground is only 1%! And the light spectrum, a few centimeters from the nourishing substrate, is no longer what it was 30 meters high. Many wavelengths are absorbed by the foliage of the canopy, leaving only crumbs for the organisms of the undergrowth. It is thus primordial for the shade plant to benefi t from a perfect orientation.
22THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photo: Patrick Laberge
BOTANY
Raise your hands if you have indoor plants! Those with their hands down, I know, have once had them. What happened to them? Fast, modern life – that’s what happened. Too much water, not enough, too much light, not enough... What would you say if you were taken from your natural life environment and dropped off on Mars? The answer: adaptation, adaptation, adaptation! Our begonias, philodendrons, bromelias and our geraniums are children of the low, humid tropical forest. Opuntia, cacti and stonecrop come from the arid deserts of the New World. With no experience of life on an eastern windowsill or on the corner of the coffee table, they have trouble adapting.
Plant AdaptationShyness?
By Sylvie Laberge
Photo: Patrick Laberge
The adaptation response is nothing new. Well before humans interfered, the forest lived a life punctuated by fi res, hurricanes, torrential rains, or droughts. Since 400 million years ago, plants have managed and have survived ice ages and global warmings. They have developed extraordinary mechanisms! Under the tropics, common events that have little importance for humans become cataclysms in the plant world. The consequences of a canopy branch falling are endless for the simple plant below. Will the clearing be benefi cial? Researchers have recently discovered that instead of stimulating growth at the soil level, such an opening causes suffering for most plants located directly in its middle. After a year, 50% had not survived. Those who manage to survive must develop survival strategies that take up much energy. They can forget about growth and reproduction for a while. Some will never get over it, and will literally vegetate before giving up.
Yet at the opposite of shyness is another process. Counter-shyness? Anti-shyness? No matter the name we give it, the action is vital. Slowly, a leaf will emerge and face the enemy: the sun. The shade it will give its siblings just below will ensure their survival. That leaf has a dramatically reduced lifespan; it will burn and dry. Its sacrifi ce will not be in vain. At the heart of the plant, the riposte is organizing. The new leaf does not look anything like those already on site. It is infl ated, succulent, perhaps waxy, covered with hair or wafered. According to its species, the plant chooses its own strategy. Some use more than one. The sunlight increase leads to an increase in transpiration. The original leaf, thin as silk, cannot face this condition. The succulent leaf is an answer. This answer is not limited to the lighting modifi cation, but can also be used to counter drought. A larger number of water molecules inside the tissues protects the plant from evaporation by redirecting liquids where they are needed
most. A little differently, but with the same goal, the now waxy leaf surface also reduces water loss. There are also hairs and bumps that redirect and refl ect light so that it only reaches the desired part of the leave’s top layer.
In the undergrowth, the rhythm of life is slow, like that of an old man walking quietly. Nature reacts to disturbances by developing means that are
for the most part unknown to us. The story does not stop here, however. With the seasons, the years, the canopy
will close back. Seeds that have been dormant for years or centuries will germinate. New trees, new fi ndings will fi ll the place created for them a few months before. The plant will put away its war equipment, eliminate its hairs and bumps, its wax and succulence. The silky leaf will take back its place and close a cycle of deep changes. Back to its initial appearance, the plant will have survived this gigantic – from its point of view – event. Is it resilience? What do we really know about the adaptation responses of plants? Very little. Experts believe that there is a very wide variety of adaptation responses, but only a few have been seriously studied. At home, it looks like these phenomenons do not happen here. Of course, there is a very small chance of seeing a canopy branch fall in our living rooms. On a daily basis, however, our indoor plants must adapt to the small disturbances that we infl ict upon them. Too much water, not enough... Most plants survive and produce a few leaves per year. Some even prosper and honor us by fl owering. During the winter, they are our link with living nature. Our only link? Take a walk through a snowy fi r forest: you will see that our northern forest sleeps with one eye open.
So… can we fi nd evidence of shyness, of adaptation phenomenon here, in Canada? Absolutely. Life in a northern forest is a succession of warm season/cold season races and stops multiplied, in some cases, by 1000, 2000, 3000 years. What would have taken in a year in the tropics requires 15 here. Our plant life has developed strategies, some answers to the disturbances of higher latitudes and to the climactic conditions found here. One of the answers is gigantism. North America has the highest trees on Earth. A west coast redwood was measured at 132 m high. General Sherman, a giant redwood 84 m high, has a base circumference of 31 m! At a height of 50 m, this evergreen still has a larger trunk than the largest east coast pine! Experts estimate that it is several thousand years old. The adaptation response adopted by the redwood, gigantism, is very far from the strategies used by tropical undergrowth plants. With many master branches, the tree can be the victim of lightning without fearing for its life: another large branch can always take over. Gigantism is also applied to age. During its 3000 year lifespan, the redwood will produce a phenomenal quantity of seeds and thus increase its chances of leaving a numerous descent.
For millennia, wildlife has adapted and developed appropriate responses to the events it faced. This life must now face the greatest challenge in its existence: modern human beings. From our immense forests, will we only preserve a few specimens as indoor plants or museum specimens? It is up to us to decide...
24THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
BOTANY
Photo: Patrick Laberge
The adaptation response is nothing new. Well before humans interfered, the forest lived a life punctuated by fi res, hurricanes, torrential rains, or droughts. Since 400 million years ago, plants have managed and have survived ice ages and global warmings. They have developed extraordinary mechanisms! Under the tropics, common events that have little importance for humans become cataclysms in the plant world. The consequences of a canopy branch falling are endless for the simple plant below. Will the clearing be benefi cial? Researchers have recently discovered that instead of stimulating growth at the soil level, such an opening causes suffering for most plants located directly in its middle. After a year, 50% had not survived. Those who manage to survive must develop survival strategies that take up much energy. They can forget about growth and reproduction for a while. Some will never get over it, and will literally vegetate before giving up.
Yet at the opposite of shyness is another process. Counter-shyness? Anti-shyness? No matter the name we give it, the action is vital. Slowly, a leaf will emerge and face the enemy: the sun. The shade it will give its siblings just below will ensure their survival. That leaf has a dramatically reduced lifespan; it will burn and dry. Its sacrifi ce will not be in vain. At the heart of the plant, the riposte is organizing. The new leaf does not look anything like those already on site. It is infl ated, succulent, perhaps waxy, covered with hair or wafered. According to its species, the plant chooses its own strategy. Some use more than one. The sunlight increase leads to an increase in transpiration. The original leaf, thin as silk, cannot face this condition. The succulent leaf is an answer. This answer is not limited to the lighting modifi cation, but can also be used to counter drought. A larger number of water molecules inside the tissues protects the plant from evaporation by redirecting liquids where they are needed
most. A little differently, but with the same goal, the now waxy leaf surface also reduces water loss. There are also hairs and bumps that redirect and refl ect light so that it only reaches the desired part of the leave’s top layer.
In the undergrowth, the rhythm of life is slow, like that of an old man walking quietly. Nature reacts to disturbances by developing means that are
for the most part unknown to us. The story does not stop here, however. With the seasons, the years, the canopy
will close back. Seeds that have been dormant for years or centuries will germinate. New trees, new fi ndings will fi ll the place created for them a few months before. The plant will put away its war equipment, eliminate its hairs and bumps, its wax and succulence. The silky leaf will take back its place and close a cycle of deep changes. Back to its initial appearance, the plant will have survived this gigantic – from its point of view – event. Is it resilience? What do we really know about the adaptation responses of plants? Very little. Experts believe that there is a very wide variety of adaptation responses, but only a few have been seriously studied. At home, it looks like these phenomenons do not happen here. Of course, there is a very small chance of seeing a canopy branch fall in our living rooms. On a daily basis, however, our indoor plants must adapt to the small disturbances that we infl ict upon them. Too much water, not enough... Most plants survive and produce a few leaves per year. Some even prosper and honor us by fl owering. During the winter, they are our link with living nature. Our only link? Take a walk through a snowy fi r forest: you will see that our northern forest sleeps with one eye open.
So… can we fi nd evidence of shyness, of adaptation phenomenon here, in Canada? Absolutely. Life in a northern forest is a succession of warm season/cold season races and stops multiplied, in some cases, by 1000, 2000, 3000 years. What would have taken in a year in the tropics requires 15 here. Our plant life has developed strategies, some answers to the disturbances of higher latitudes and to the climactic conditions found here. One of the answers is gigantism. North America has the highest trees on Earth. A west coast redwood was measured at 132 m high. General Sherman, a giant redwood 84 m high, has a base circumference of 31 m! At a height of 50 m, this evergreen still has a larger trunk than the largest east coast pine! Experts estimate that it is several thousand years old. The adaptation response adopted by the redwood, gigantism, is very far from the strategies used by tropical undergrowth plants. With many master branches, the tree can be the victim of lightning without fearing for its life: another large branch can always take over. Gigantism is also applied to age. During its 3000 year lifespan, the redwood will produce a phenomenal quantity of seeds and thus increase its chances of leaving a numerous descent.
For millennia, wildlife has adapted and developed appropriate responses to the events it faced. This life must now face the greatest challenge in its existence: modern human beings. From our immense forests, will we only preserve a few specimens as indoor plants or museum specimens? It is up to us to decide...
24THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
BOTANY
26THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photos: by the manufacturers
SHOPPING
Some New Distributors Added for the EcoSystem™
The EcoSystem™, the number one selling vertical garden
in the world, has offi cially been launched in Canada and
the United States. Until recently, this vertical garden has
only been readily available in Quebec and Europe. With
new distribution centers in Tampa, San Francisco and
Los Angeles, as well as Rambridge Wholesale Supply for
Western Canada and Ontario, the EcoSystem™ can be
found by all gardeners seeking an effi cient, space-saving system. For
those in Quebec, the EcoSystem™ is always available from MegaWatt
and Brite Lite. The EcoSystem™ is ideal for limited space and an abundant
harvest. The unique design is the only true vertical garden, meaning the
plant is growing at a 90° angle from the growing medium. The forces
of gravity and the attraction towards the light give the plant a constant
workout, creating a robust, high yielding plant. To fi nd a distributor
near you, please send us an e-mail at: [email protected], or
by calling 1 866 527-3469.
– C.A.
CannaMax’s Buffer and Storage Solutions
CannaMax Labs’ solutions are, in fact, distilled water
stabilized at an average acidity factor (pH4) or neutral
factor (pH7). These products are used either as buffer
solutions to keep the probe of your pH-meter humid
or as calibration solutions to calibrate your reader.
Liquid pH4 and pH7 are simple products, so the price
doesn’t vary much from one product to the next. But
if you have a pH-meter, CannaMax products are the things for you.
CannaMax is also available as Buffer 1,000 ppm, 500 ml, Buffer pH4,
500 ml, and Buffer pH7, 500 ml Black light-proof bottles keeps
CannaMax solutions fresh and ready when you need them. See:
www.hydrotek-online.com/sectione.pdf (page 31) and www.
rambridge.com/products/garden/phtds/phtest.html.
– C.A.
Nutra-Wand PPM Control WizardNutra-Wand ppm controller offers all the following advantages to the
certifi ed grower:
• Adv. #1: Automatic ON/OFF and auto-calibration feature.
• Adv. #2: Easy to read and understand;
• Adv. #3: Automatic temperature compensation;
• Adv. #4: Water resistant protection;
• Adv. #5: Never needs calibration;
• Adv. #6: Common 3 Alkaline AA batteries, easy to
replace;
• Adv. #7: Limited one year warranty;
• Adv. #8: Waterproof to 1 meter for short periods of time;
• Adv. #9: Each time you replace batteries, it recalibrates itself;
• Adv. #10: It measures conductivity in three scales, EC, CF and PPM
(EC stands for electrical conductivity, PPM stands for parts per
million and CF stands for conductivity factor.);
• Adv. #11: The savings in calibration solution over 5 years alone
makes this meter a real buy.
How cool is that? Over the years Control Wizard’s Nutra Wand has
proven to be a rugged performer and great conductivity meter that
everyone that owns one seems to love. It’s great for greenhouse use
where high moisture situations occur. See: www.hydrotek-online.com/
sectione.pdf.
– H.T.
B’cuzz Bounce from AtamiB’cuzz Bounce from Atami is very easy to work with! Just saturate
and plant your plantlets in this double steamed coco for an incredible
result. The medium is best when used with B’Cuzz Coco nutrients.
Atami ships compressed coir to the Netherlands, where it undergoes
rigid batch testing and treatment. Because Atami owns its own facility
in Sri Lanka and they are able to guarantee the quality of the original
untreated/raw product (age and origin). Atami coir is sourced from coir
that is grown 50 kms (or more) inland from the coast, meaning the
original coir source is low in sodium chloride. Furthermore, the coir is
under two years old, which means the coir’s composition is ideal for use
as a hydroponic media. Atami uses a unique steaming and buffering
process for the coir at its facilities in the Netherlands and then ships it
around the world. Atami is the only company in the world that uses this
steaming process to fl ush impurities from the media. In this process, the
coir is initially saturated with calcium and magnesium solutions. After
this, the coir is steamed to 90ºC and then fl ushed with large amounts of
water; the combination of these two processes ensures that impurities
are effectively fl ushed from the medium. After this
operation, B’cuzz coir is lightly fertilized to achieve
optimized nutritional balance within the
medium.
Because of Atami’s rigid standards,
B’cuzz coir is one of the two largest
selling coir products in the retail
hydroponics market. If you order this product on the Internet, be aware
that has an oversize packaging, so due to the heavy nature of dirt/
medium, some companies charge additional shipping fees.
– D.B.
Harvest Master Day/Night Timers and Climate ControllersIs your power bill giving you a monthly heart attack? It may be time
to start using your head to cut that power usage down to size. Simple
steps for users of Harvest Master’s climate controllers have proven to
produce a massive benefi t. These controllers have “any length” Day/
27VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5 THE INDOOR GARDENER
Phot
os: b
y th
e m
anuf
actu
rers
SHOPPINGNight timers and come standard with a “Fast Flowering” cycle (18 hour
per day). This allows a 6 hour day period, followed by 12 hours of
night, to ensure your plants stay locked in “Flowering”,
but every day you gain 6 hours for the grow room
to start a new day. In 3 days, your plants have had 4
days! In 3 weeks, your plants have seen 4 weeks!
Simply put, each month, your lights (and A/C
units and dehumidifi ers) will be on for just 240
hours in fast fl owering mode, instead of the usual 360 hours in 12:12
fl owering cycles. That is a massive drop of 34% on power usage, just
like that.
This can work two ways for you.
1) Make it possible for your plants to feed and process in 6 hours, as
though it were 12 hours: higher temperature, CO2 concentrations
and humidity, with nutrients to suit make this possible, with yields
exactly as for 12 hours fl owering cycles.
2) Use the same lower temps, CO2 concentrations and humidity you
currently use. Allow more “cycle days” with 6 calendar weeks
becoming 8 plant weeks.
At worst, you’ll end up with the same yields, in a similar length of time.
The big gains are: heavily reduced power usage, lower residual heat in
rooms, easier crop management. Interestingly enough, this is old news.
Indoor growing pioneers from the Netherlands developed and proved
this technique years ago. The trouble was fi nding cycle timers to run
short days. Now it’s been proven all over the world by Harvest Master
users with an out-of-the-box solution: more growth in less time; less
power, less mould, fungi and pests. It just gives you a string of bonuses,
fi rstly proven by the advanced growers, now able to be achieved by
novice growers too. If you have any questions on how to get on the
Harvest Master’s big crops wagon, email [email protected] or
visit www.harvest-master.com.
– T.O.
ThermoFlo Technologies AnnouncesThermoFlo Technologies is a proudly Canadian manufacturer of
premium galvanized steel coil fl ex duct and refl ective materials for the
indoor garden and HVAC industry. ThermoFlo’s satisfi ed customers
rave about the features of the SR & SRB series, including:
• Oversized diameter for ULTRA-EASY installation;
• Carbon black cores that do not refl ect light;
• Integrated RipStop lining that prevents
ducting from tearing;
• Galvanized spring steel helix to allow for
maximum CFM air fl ow;
• 100% sealed core for odourless, quiet
function;
• Made in Canada.
Each product has been specifi cally designed and tested to exceed the
industry standard, and is backed by a full warranty from ThermoFlo.
Call 1 866 321-1020 for a free brochure and a listing of distributors
near you.
– K.W.
CannaMax Labs PK 0-30*-20 with Phosphate TechnologyThis product is a fl owering and immune system
enhancement in one solution. CannaMax PK 0-30*-20
is the next technological breakthrough in hydroponic
gardening. This new cutting edge technology is
a fl owering enhancer with the highest liquid NPK
achieved in the hydoponic industry. CannaMax PK 0-
30*-20 is absolutely safe, easy to use and incredibly
effective. CannaMax PK 0-30*-20 maximizes fl owering
while maintaining close internodal spacing. It is also benefi cial in
preventing mildew, brown rot and fungi. CannaMax PK 0-30*-20
enhances the sweetness and fl avor of fl owers while increasing the
weight of fl oral crops and (x2) rate of nutrient absorption. This product is
environmentally friendly and can be used for soil and foliar applications.
See: www.rambridge.com/products/garden/special/spec.html.
– R.B.
Perma Reinforced Premium Air DuctingHydrofarm’s new Perma Duct offers superior
performance at a great price. Its durable
mesh prevents tearing and provides lasting
performance even with high CFMs. Its smooth interior
reduces noise, and it comes with 2 clamps so it is ready for
use immediately. To fi nd a Hydrofarm authorized retailer near you, visit
www.hydrofarm.com. Perma Duct is now available from Hydrofarm!
– R.K.
Tarp Tabs and Swivel Clips Available at HydrofarmThe Hippo Swivel Clip clamps onto any tarp, poly or
other sheet material, replacing torn out grommets
or to create a grommet where none existed before.
No other product like it offers its superior clamping power.
Add perimeter grommets to your tarp for additional tie down
points with the tarp tab. Use on tarps, poly, Mylar®,
or shrink wrap. Package includes 4 peel-and-stick
grommets. Visit www.hydrofarm.com. Tarp Tabs
and Swivel Clips are now available
from Hydrofarm!
– R.K.Hor
ticul
tura
l Nov
eltie
s
26THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photos: by the manufacturers
SHOPPING
Some New Distributors Added for the EcoSystem™
The EcoSystem™, the number one selling vertical garden
in the world, has offi cially been launched in Canada and
the United States. Until recently, this vertical garden has
only been readily available in Quebec and Europe. With
new distribution centers in Tampa, San Francisco and
Los Angeles, as well as Rambridge Wholesale Supply for
Western Canada and Ontario, the EcoSystem™ can be
found by all gardeners seeking an effi cient, space-saving system. For
those in Quebec, the EcoSystem™ is always available from MegaWatt
and Brite Lite. The EcoSystem™ is ideal for limited space and an abundant
harvest. The unique design is the only true vertical garden, meaning the
plant is growing at a 90° angle from the growing medium. The forces
of gravity and the attraction towards the light give the plant a constant
workout, creating a robust, high yielding plant. To fi nd a distributor
near you, please send us an e-mail at: [email protected], or
by calling 1 866 527-3469.
– C.A.
CannaMax’s Buffer and Storage Solutions
CannaMax Labs’ solutions are, in fact, distilled water
stabilized at an average acidity factor (pH4) or neutral
factor (pH7). These products are used either as buffer
solutions to keep the probe of your pH-meter humid
or as calibration solutions to calibrate your reader.
Liquid pH4 and pH7 are simple products, so the price
doesn’t vary much from one product to the next. But
if you have a pH-meter, CannaMax products are the things for you.
CannaMax is also available as Buffer 1,000 ppm, 500 ml, Buffer pH4,
500 ml, and Buffer pH7, 500 ml Black light-proof bottles keeps
CannaMax solutions fresh and ready when you need them. See:
www.hydrotek-online.com/sectione.pdf (page 31) and www.
rambridge.com/products/garden/phtds/phtest.html.
– C.A.
Nutra-Wand PPM Control WizardNutra-Wand ppm controller offers all the following advantages to the
certifi ed grower:
• Adv. #1: Automatic ON/OFF and auto-calibration feature.
• Adv. #2: Easy to read and understand;
• Adv. #3: Automatic temperature compensation;
• Adv. #4: Water resistant protection;
• Adv. #5: Never needs calibration;
• Adv. #6: Common 3 Alkaline AA batteries, easy to
replace;
• Adv. #7: Limited one year warranty;
• Adv. #8: Waterproof to 1 meter for short periods of time;
• Adv. #9: Each time you replace batteries, it recalibrates itself;
• Adv. #10: It measures conductivity in three scales, EC, CF and PPM
(EC stands for electrical conductivity, PPM stands for parts per
million and CF stands for conductivity factor.);
• Adv. #11: The savings in calibration solution over 5 years alone
makes this meter a real buy.
How cool is that? Over the years Control Wizard’s Nutra Wand has
proven to be a rugged performer and great conductivity meter that
everyone that owns one seems to love. It’s great for greenhouse use
where high moisture situations occur. See: www.hydrotek-online.com/
sectione.pdf.
– H.T.
B’cuzz Bounce from AtamiB’cuzz Bounce from Atami is very easy to work with! Just saturate
and plant your plantlets in this double steamed coco for an incredible
result. The medium is best when used with B’Cuzz Coco nutrients.
Atami ships compressed coir to the Netherlands, where it undergoes
rigid batch testing and treatment. Because Atami owns its own facility
in Sri Lanka and they are able to guarantee the quality of the original
untreated/raw product (age and origin). Atami coir is sourced from coir
that is grown 50 kms (or more) inland from the coast, meaning the
original coir source is low in sodium chloride. Furthermore, the coir is
under two years old, which means the coir’s composition is ideal for use
as a hydroponic media. Atami uses a unique steaming and buffering
process for the coir at its facilities in the Netherlands and then ships it
around the world. Atami is the only company in the world that uses this
steaming process to fl ush impurities from the media. In this process, the
coir is initially saturated with calcium and magnesium solutions. After
this, the coir is steamed to 90ºC and then fl ushed with large amounts of
water; the combination of these two processes ensures that impurities
are effectively fl ushed from the medium. After this
operation, B’cuzz coir is lightly fertilized to achieve
optimized nutritional balance within the
medium.
Because of Atami’s rigid standards,
B’cuzz coir is one of the two largest
selling coir products in the retail
hydroponics market. If you order this product on the Internet, be aware
that has an oversize packaging, so due to the heavy nature of dirt/
medium, some companies charge additional shipping fees.
– D.B.
Harvest Master Day/Night Timers and Climate ControllersIs your power bill giving you a monthly heart attack? It may be time
to start using your head to cut that power usage down to size. Simple
steps for users of Harvest Master’s climate controllers have proven to
produce a massive benefi t. These controllers have “any length” Day/
27VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5 THE INDOOR GARDENER
Phot
os: b
y th
e m
anuf
actu
rers
SHOPPINGNight timers and come standard with a “Fast Flowering” cycle (18 hour
per day). This allows a 6 hour day period, followed by 12 hours of
night, to ensure your plants stay locked in “Flowering”,
but every day you gain 6 hours for the grow room
to start a new day. In 3 days, your plants have had 4
days! In 3 weeks, your plants have seen 4 weeks!
Simply put, each month, your lights (and A/C
units and dehumidifi ers) will be on for just 240
hours in fast fl owering mode, instead of the usual 360 hours in 12:12
fl owering cycles. That is a massive drop of 34% on power usage, just
like that.
This can work two ways for you.
1) Make it possible for your plants to feed and process in 6 hours, as
though it were 12 hours: higher temperature, CO2 concentrations
and humidity, with nutrients to suit make this possible, with yields
exactly as for 12 hours fl owering cycles.
2) Use the same lower temps, CO2 concentrations and humidity you
currently use. Allow more “cycle days” with 6 calendar weeks
becoming 8 plant weeks.
At worst, you’ll end up with the same yields, in a similar length of time.
The big gains are: heavily reduced power usage, lower residual heat in
rooms, easier crop management. Interestingly enough, this is old news.
Indoor growing pioneers from the Netherlands developed and proved
this technique years ago. The trouble was fi nding cycle timers to run
short days. Now it’s been proven all over the world by Harvest Master
users with an out-of-the-box solution: more growth in less time; less
power, less mould, fungi and pests. It just gives you a string of bonuses,
fi rstly proven by the advanced growers, now able to be achieved by
novice growers too. If you have any questions on how to get on the
Harvest Master’s big crops wagon, email [email protected] or
visit www.harvest-master.com.
– T.O.
ThermoFlo Technologies AnnouncesThermoFlo Technologies is a proudly Canadian manufacturer of
premium galvanized steel coil fl ex duct and refl ective materials for the
indoor garden and HVAC industry. ThermoFlo’s satisfi ed customers
rave about the features of the SR & SRB series, including:
• Oversized diameter for ULTRA-EASY installation;
• Carbon black cores that do not refl ect light;
• Integrated RipStop lining that prevents
ducting from tearing;
• Galvanized spring steel helix to allow for
maximum CFM air fl ow;
• 100% sealed core for odourless, quiet
function;
• Made in Canada.
Each product has been specifi cally designed and tested to exceed the
industry standard, and is backed by a full warranty from ThermoFlo.
Call 1 866 321-1020 for a free brochure and a listing of distributors
near you.
– K.W.
CannaMax Labs PK 0-30*-20 with Phosphate TechnologyThis product is a fl owering and immune system
enhancement in one solution. CannaMax PK 0-30*-20
is the next technological breakthrough in hydroponic
gardening. This new cutting edge technology is
a fl owering enhancer with the highest liquid NPK
achieved in the hydoponic industry. CannaMax PK 0-
30*-20 is absolutely safe, easy to use and incredibly
effective. CannaMax PK 0-30*-20 maximizes fl owering
while maintaining close internodal spacing. It is also benefi cial in
preventing mildew, brown rot and fungi. CannaMax PK 0-30*-20
enhances the sweetness and fl avor of fl owers while increasing the
weight of fl oral crops and (x2) rate of nutrient absorption. This product is
environmentally friendly and can be used for soil and foliar applications.
See: www.rambridge.com/products/garden/special/spec.html.
– R.B.
Perma Reinforced Premium Air DuctingHydrofarm’s new Perma Duct offers superior
performance at a great price. Its durable
mesh prevents tearing and provides lasting
performance even with high CFMs. Its smooth interior
reduces noise, and it comes with 2 clamps so it is ready for
use immediately. To fi nd a Hydrofarm authorized retailer near you, visit
www.hydrofarm.com. Perma Duct is now available from Hydrofarm!
– R.K.
Tarp Tabs and Swivel Clips Available at HydrofarmThe Hippo Swivel Clip clamps onto any tarp, poly or
other sheet material, replacing torn out grommets
or to create a grommet where none existed before.
No other product like it offers its superior clamping power.
Add perimeter grommets to your tarp for additional tie down
points with the tarp tab. Use on tarps, poly, Mylar®,
or shrink wrap. Package includes 4 peel-and-stick
grommets. Visit www.hydrofarm.com. Tarp Tabs
and Swivel Clips are now available
from Hydrofarm!
– R.K.Hor
ticul
tura
l Nov
eltie
s
Phot
os: ©
200
5, Y
von
Thér
ien/
Le B
ulle
tin d
es a
gric
ulte
urs
TECHNIQUESseeds right away and sow them to see (do it before reading on, because the rest of this
article might make you change
your mind!).
In agriculture, whether in North America or in Europe, the most common
F1 seeds are those of corn and sunfl ower. Many others exist, however, especially for edible legumes and leguminous fodder plants such as spinach, broccoli, peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, and sugarbeet. F1 hybrid seeds of beans and small peas, however, cannot be commercially produced because these plants self-pollinate (before their fl owers even open). Hand-fertilizing them would be too expensive: all of the buds would have to be opened one by one, and closed again once the pistil is dipped in pollen! The market could not absorb hybrid F1 varieties at this price, at least not until botanists fi nd a better way to fertilize fewer species of beans and small peas.
Sometimes, hybridization can produce a brand-new fruit or vegetable, as was the case with the Jalapeño pepper. Indeed, Capsicum Tam Jalapeño, or Jalapeño TAM is a F1 hybrid of Capsicum Annuum L, the common Mexican red or green pepper. Researchers from A&M University in Texas (hence the name Tam) have thus a obtained less strong, less spicy Jalapeño that is better suited to the palate of “gringos”. Although it has the same aroma as the ordinary Jalapeño pepper, the Tam Jalapeño has a much softer taste than its
Photo: © 2005, Yvon Thérien/Le Bulletin des agriculteurs
TECHNIQUES
Mendel’s LawsThe term F1 (fi rst fi lial generation or fi lial 1) refers to the descent of the hybridization of two different pure varieties. In the animal kingdom, for example, if you mate a horse and a female donkey, the results will be an F1 hybrid, in this case a mule. In an aquatic environment, we can also produce F1 hybrid fi sh varieties by breeding pure fi sh species (the chosen fi sh species must however be as close as possible). The same can be done with plants: if you cross two pure plant varieties, the plants stemming from these parents will be F1. The seeds thus produced, however, will not be a pure variety. Many dominant characteristics of the parents will be transmitted to the F1 seeds. This process increases plants’
size and vigor, as well as the rate and potency of their chemical components. These
plants clone relatively well, but will not produce excellent
seeds.
To obtain high quality F1 hybrid seeds, the two parents’ pollination must be repeated every year. This
pollination operation can only be done manually; that is why F1 hybrid seeds are so expensive. They can only be used once. At the next generation, a disjunction occurs. It was Czechoslovakian-German botanist Gregor Mendel who fi rst drafted the three laws of plant hybridization. The fi rst law illustrates the uniformity of fi rst-generation hybrids. The second law defi nes the segregation found in the second generation. The third law confi rms the independent disjunction in F2 hybrids. The use of these seeds in agriculture thus creates “fi xed” species, which environmental groups see as a danger for biodiversity. We will come back to that later.
If you sow the seeds from the F1 hybrid plants, some undesirable recessive genes will appear. The plants will be inconsistent and have very different properties. A very low percentage will be similar to one parent or the other. Most others, however, will be genetically poor. The great majority of horticulturists who buy F1 seeds know that one of the best ways to improve their chances of getting F1 hybrids coming from two pure lines is to use sterile male varieties that prevent self-pollination. Corn growers, for example, use sterile male corn varieties to produce identical seeds. In some others dioecious plant varieties, the male plants are destroyed long before they are able to pollinate the female plants.
An Extremely Expensive Manual LaborExperienced cultivators create new varieties by growing hundreds of plants. They choose certain plants bearing the desired characteristics to obtain those traits within the variety they wish to create. All other plants are removed and
destroyed Examples of desirable characteristics are: early fl owering, heavy fruit, and high yield. The process
is repeated approximately 7 times, until the plants are homogenous and the sought after traits are obvious. In the end, a new variety appears, ready to be tasted. Select a few F1
First Filial Generation or F1 Hybrid Seeds
By W. Jacques
I will attempt to explain what F1 seeds are. I promise you, it has nothing to do with car racing!
Phot
os: ©
200
5, Y
von
Thér
ien/
Le B
ulle
tin d
es a
gric
ulte
urs
TECHNIQUESseeds right away and sow them to see (do it before reading on, because the rest of this
article might make you change
your mind!).
In agriculture, whether in North America or in Europe, the most common
F1 seeds are those of corn and sunfl ower. Many others exist, however, especially for edible legumes and leguminous fodder plants such as spinach, broccoli, peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, and sugarbeet. F1 hybrid seeds of beans and small peas, however, cannot be commercially produced because these plants self-pollinate (before their fl owers even open). Hand-fertilizing them would be too expensive: all of the buds would have to be opened one by one, and closed again once the pistil is dipped in pollen! The market could not absorb hybrid F1 varieties at this price, at least not until botanists fi nd a better way to fertilize fewer species of beans and small peas.
Sometimes, hybridization can produce a brand-new fruit or vegetable, as was the case with the Jalapeño pepper. Indeed, Capsicum Tam Jalapeño, or Jalapeño TAM is a F1 hybrid of Capsicum Annuum L, the common Mexican red or green pepper. Researchers from A&M University in Texas (hence the name Tam) have thus a obtained less strong, less spicy Jalapeño that is better suited to the palate of “gringos”. Although it has the same aroma as the ordinary Jalapeño pepper, the Tam Jalapeño has a much softer taste than its
Photo: © 2005, Yvon Thérien/Le Bulletin des agriculteurs
TECHNIQUES
Mendel’s LawsThe term F1 (fi rst fi lial generation or fi lial 1) refers to the descent of the hybridization of two different pure varieties. In the animal kingdom, for example, if you mate a horse and a female donkey, the results will be an F1 hybrid, in this case a mule. In an aquatic environment, we can also produce F1 hybrid fi sh varieties by breeding pure fi sh species (the chosen fi sh species must however be as close as possible). The same can be done with plants: if you cross two pure plant varieties, the plants stemming from these parents will be F1. The seeds thus produced, however, will not be a pure variety. Many dominant characteristics of the parents will be transmitted to the F1 seeds. This process increases plants’
size and vigor, as well as the rate and potency of their chemical components. These
plants clone relatively well, but will not produce excellent
seeds.
To obtain high quality F1 hybrid seeds, the two parents’ pollination must be repeated every year. This
pollination operation can only be done manually; that is why F1 hybrid seeds are so expensive. They can only be used once. At the next generation, a disjunction occurs. It was Czechoslovakian-German botanist Gregor Mendel who fi rst drafted the three laws of plant hybridization. The fi rst law illustrates the uniformity of fi rst-generation hybrids. The second law defi nes the segregation found in the second generation. The third law confi rms the independent disjunction in F2 hybrids. The use of these seeds in agriculture thus creates “fi xed” species, which environmental groups see as a danger for biodiversity. We will come back to that later.
If you sow the seeds from the F1 hybrid plants, some undesirable recessive genes will appear. The plants will be inconsistent and have very different properties. A very low percentage will be similar to one parent or the other. Most others, however, will be genetically poor. The great majority of horticulturists who buy F1 seeds know that one of the best ways to improve their chances of getting F1 hybrids coming from two pure lines is to use sterile male varieties that prevent self-pollination. Corn growers, for example, use sterile male corn varieties to produce identical seeds. In some others dioecious plant varieties, the male plants are destroyed long before they are able to pollinate the female plants.
An Extremely Expensive Manual LaborExperienced cultivators create new varieties by growing hundreds of plants. They choose certain plants bearing the desired characteristics to obtain those traits within the variety they wish to create. All other plants are removed and
destroyed Examples of desirable characteristics are: early fl owering, heavy fruit, and high yield. The process
is repeated approximately 7 times, until the plants are homogenous and the sought after traits are obvious. In the end, a new variety appears, ready to be tasted. Select a few F1
First Filial Generation or F1 Hybrid Seeds
By W. Jacques
I will attempt to explain what F1 seeds are. I promise you, it has nothing to do with car racing!
HYDROTEK
30THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photos: Fred Leduc
purebred parent. Indeed, the Tam Jalapeño F1 produces less capsaicin, the chemical substance secreted by the glands right under the Jalapeño’s stalk and which gives the pepper its spiciness. This chemical compound circulates along the pepper’s internal veins, where the seeds attach. For a less spicy taste, some of the pepper’s veins can be removed.
Strictly Illegal AlternativesIt is important to know that F1 hybrid seeds are commercially extremely well protected. Varieties have been registered since 1941 in national seed production catalogs in the various countries that developed them. The International Union for the Protection of New Varieties of Plants (UPOV) was created in 1961. It granted a monopoly to approximately 10 multinationals over thousands of seed breeders and agrochemical producers from all over the world. F1 hybrids, since they are sterile or lead to a possibly degenerating descent, allow these multinationals to take advantage of a captive market that is extremely lucrative. Be aware that F1 seeds have made fortunes for Dupont, Monsanto, Limagrain, Singenta, etc.
Environmental protection associations are attempting to propose alternatives to this dominant market, but they are usually only borderline legal, if not clearly illegal. In France, for example, the Association Terre de semences, which
produced seeds from organic and biodynamic agriculture since 1993, was forced to close 10 years later by the fraud squad dispatched by the Ministry of agriculture. The varieties which Terre de semences used to produce were registered in none of the national seed catalogs: they were just perfectly illegal. A new structure was set up in September 2003: the Kokopelli Association (see Notes & News, vol. 1, issue 2). It produces its own seeds in the family garden “Les Semences de Kokopelli” and attempts to keep up the good fi ght, knowing nevertheless that its seeds are quasi illegal. Dominique Guillet, director of Kokopelli, is now attempting to fi nd legal means of having the seed production validated and thus to bring the association out of the chasm. This battle requires many efforts and the fi ght between organic seeds and F1 seeds can be likened to that of David against Goliath.
For a variety to be entered into a national catalog, it must be proven that it has been in existence for over 20 years. The seeds must be certifi ed DUS, meaning that they must show distinctness, uniformity and stability. Furthermore, there is a fee of €220 ($CA335) for each seed variety to register in the catalog. These fees add up to impressive sums, which small organic associations do not have. The breeder must then fi nd a distributor, nurseries, and garden centers willing to commercialize these new seeds. Of course, all these factors converge against small associations like Kokopelli, and the same is happening all around the world. Those who produce organic and biodynamic seeds promote evolution fi rst and foremost, as opposed to the rigid, fi xed frame imposed by the exploitation of F1 seeds.
The next world war may well be a seed war, whether it happens soon or in a few decades... Now that you have some information, choose your side!
TECHNIQUES
Phot
os: J
an S
enne
ma
GALLERYGALLERY
Horti Fair 2007
Photos: Jan Sennema
Phot
os: J
an S
enne
ma
GALLERYGALLERY
Horti Fair 2007
Photos: Jan Sennema
Photos: Jan Sennema
GALLERY
Phot
os: J
an S
enne
ma
GALLERY
Horti Fair 2007
Photos: Jan Sennema
GALLERYPh
otos
: Jan
Sen
nem
a
GALLERY
Horti Fair 2007
Photos: by the manufacturers
INDUSTRY NEWS The All New Gardening Indoors with Soil & Hydroponics is Available Now!
The Fifth Edition* of Gardening Indoors with Soil & Hydroponics, a best seller since 1986, is expanded and completely rewritten with all new information. More than 670 full colour photos, drawings, charts and graphs illustrate every detail of this authoritative easy-to-understand book. Numerous simple cultivation solutions make it appealing to novice gardeners and seasoned gardeners can fi nd answers to all their questions. Discover how to achieve the biggest
best yields even with limited space and a small budget. Learn how to grow while taking an exclusive photo tour of some of the most interesting indoor and outdoor gardens and greenhouses in the world. Get online on the following Web address to see the fi rst two pages of every chapter of Gardening Indoors: Growing with Soil & Hydroponics: www.gardeningindoors.com/dhtml. Trade paperback, 384 pages, 670 colour images.
* The former title, Gardening Indoors: the Indoor Gardener’s Bible, has changed to Gardening Indoors: Grower’s Bible for Soil & Hydroponics.
– J. Poblacion
Now Available from Hydrofarm•Organic PureSpray Green Spray Oil
Hydrofarm has added Organic PureSpray Green Spray Oil PureSpray Green is an OMRI-listed, all season spray oil for insect, mite and disease control. Listed pests controlled include mites, scales, aphids, mealy bugs, beetles, thrips, leaf miners, webworms, whitefl ies, powdery mildew, rust, etc. PureSpray Green is perfect for organic gardening and production: PureSpray Green kills eggs.
•Pahroc Giant Exxxpanded PerlitePerlite is used as a soil additive to increase the aeration and draining of the soil. Perlite is a great hydroponic growing medium by itself or as a mixture with other mediums. Perlite is commonly used with vermiculite (a 50/50 mix is a very popular medium), and is also one of the major ingredients of soilless mixes. Perlite has good wicking action, which makes it a good choice for wick-type hydroponic systems.
•Reducers and Y ConnectorsHydrofarm’s new reducers and Y
connectors will fi t the bill in and around your fans and ducting. Available in sizes ranging from
6” to 14”, the galvanized duct reducers can be used with fans, ducting, air-cooled hoods, and ventilation systems. The Connectors also feature galvanized construction and allow you to vent multiple areas with one fan. They are available in fi ve different sizes to fi t any need.
To fi nd a Hydrofarm authorized retailer near you, visit: www.hydrofarm.com.
– R.K.
Doktor Doom Products are Now Available at HydrofarmDoktor Doom proudly announces that Hydrofarm is now distributing its products. Please contact Hydrofarm West at 1 800 634-9990 or Hydrofarm East at 1 888 780-4567 for more information.
– G.K.
New Water and Nutrient Conserving, Algae and Fungus Gnat Elimination Products from CubeCap™Canadian-based company CubeCap™ has just released its brand new product line for the New Year. They will be adding four new items to accompany the popular 4” model. • A smaller 3” Cap has been introduced along with a larger multi adaptable 6” DripCap™ reservoir.
They also came out with some nifty little propagation hose holders.
• The re-usable 3, 4 & 6” CubeCap™ caps increase refl ectability and stop algae and fungus gnats forever. The cap also slows down the water and nutrient evaporation to save money. The caps are made to sit elevated above the blocks’ surface to allow for maximum air fl ow.
• The 6” cap has the option to be used as is, or you can tear away a 3 or 4” square from the centre of the cap to be able to stack blocks on top. There are 6 locations to drip water from on the 6” size and 2 locations for the 3 and 4”.
• The extraordinarily innovative DripCap™ reservoir is a small unit that clips up underneath any one of the CubeCap™ caps.
New 3” CubeCap™ model
New 6” CubeCap™ model
For an authorized retailer near you visithydrofarm.com or call 800.634.9990
—Horticultural Products®—
Photos: by the manufacturers
INDUSTRY NEWS The All New Gardening Indoors with Soil & Hydroponics is Available Now!
The Fifth Edition* of Gardening Indoors with Soil & Hydroponics, a best seller since 1986, is expanded and completely rewritten with all new information. More than 670 full colour photos, drawings, charts and graphs illustrate every detail of this authoritative easy-to-understand book. Numerous simple cultivation solutions make it appealing to novice gardeners and seasoned gardeners can fi nd answers to all their questions. Discover how to achieve the biggest
best yields even with limited space and a small budget. Learn how to grow while taking an exclusive photo tour of some of the most interesting indoor and outdoor gardens and greenhouses in the world. Get online on the following Web address to see the fi rst two pages of every chapter of Gardening Indoors: Growing with Soil & Hydroponics: www.gardeningindoors.com/dhtml. Trade paperback, 384 pages, 670 colour images.
* The former title, Gardening Indoors: the Indoor Gardener’s Bible, has changed to Gardening Indoors: Grower’s Bible for Soil & Hydroponics.
– J. Poblacion
Now Available from Hydrofarm•Organic PureSpray Green Spray Oil
Hydrofarm has added Organic PureSpray Green Spray Oil PureSpray Green is an OMRI-listed, all season spray oil for insect, mite and disease control. Listed pests controlled include mites, scales, aphids, mealy bugs, beetles, thrips, leaf miners, webworms, whitefl ies, powdery mildew, rust, etc. PureSpray Green is perfect for organic gardening and production: PureSpray Green kills eggs.
•Pahroc Giant Exxxpanded PerlitePerlite is used as a soil additive to increase the aeration and draining of the soil. Perlite is a great hydroponic growing medium by itself or as a mixture with other mediums. Perlite is commonly used with vermiculite (a 50/50 mix is a very popular medium), and is also one of the major ingredients of soilless mixes. Perlite has good wicking action, which makes it a good choice for wick-type hydroponic systems.
•Reducers and Y ConnectorsHydrofarm’s new reducers and Y
connectors will fi t the bill in and around your fans and ducting. Available in sizes ranging from
6” to 14”, the galvanized duct reducers can be used with fans, ducting, air-cooled hoods, and ventilation systems. The Connectors also feature galvanized construction and allow you to vent multiple areas with one fan. They are available in fi ve different sizes to fi t any need.
To fi nd a Hydrofarm authorized retailer near you, visit: www.hydrofarm.com.
– R.K.
Doktor Doom Products are Now Available at HydrofarmDoktor Doom proudly announces that Hydrofarm is now distributing its products. Please contact Hydrofarm West at 1 800 634-9990 or Hydrofarm East at 1 888 780-4567 for more information.
– G.K.
New Water and Nutrient Conserving, Algae and Fungus Gnat Elimination Products from CubeCap™Canadian-based company CubeCap™ has just released its brand new product line for the New Year. They will be adding four new items to accompany the popular 4” model. • A smaller 3” Cap has been introduced along with a larger multi adaptable 6” DripCap™ reservoir.
They also came out with some nifty little propagation hose holders.
• The re-usable 3, 4 & 6” CubeCap™ caps increase refl ectability and stop algae and fungus gnats forever. The cap also slows down the water and nutrient evaporation to save money. The caps are made to sit elevated above the blocks’ surface to allow for maximum air fl ow.
• The 6” cap has the option to be used as is, or you can tear away a 3 or 4” square from the centre of the cap to be able to stack blocks on top. There are 6 locations to drip water from on the 6” size and 2 locations for the 3 and 4”.
• The extraordinarily innovative DripCap™ reservoir is a small unit that clips up underneath any one of the CubeCap™ caps.
New 3” CubeCap™ model
New 6” CubeCap™ model
For an authorized retailer near you visithydrofarm.com or call 800.634.9990
—Horticultural Products®—
38THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photos: by the manufacturers
INDUSTRY NEWS • The “V” hose holders press into the CubeCap™ cap and water drips through, fi lling the reservoir below. The water reaches a certain level and overfl ows for even coverage of the block and root system.
For more information, visit: www.cubecap.ca, or contact Steve, Johnny or Jeff by e-mail ([email protected]), or call our offi ce at 450 781-1532.
– S.G.
Technafl ora Introduces Three New Distributors
With every New Year comes new growth and expansion and this year is no exception. Technafl ora Plant Products is pleased to welcome its newest distributors to its list of exceptional and dedicated partners within Canada and the United States: Micro Hydroponics and R&M Supply. In addition, Technafl ora is equally excited to announce a partnership with our new European distributor, Planeta Orgánico of Madrid, Spain. All three distributors will carry our full line of exceptional plant nutrients and supplements, which include products such as the B.C. Hydroponic Nutrients, Thrive Alive B-1, Sugar Daddy, MagiCal, Rootech Cloning Gel and the value-packed Recipe for Success Starter Kit. Increasing distribution means our retailers will encounter no barriers to accessing our products and will have the opportunity to conduct their wholesale business with their distributor of choice.
Set-up, Pour and GrowTechnafl ora Plant Products Ltd. and Custom
Automated Products, (CAP) have joined two exceptional products in one package. Consumers who purchase the versatile Ebb &
Gro hydroponic system will receive free inside Technafl ora’s Recipe for Success Starter Kit (RFS). The Ebb & Gro fl ow system holds anywhere from to 12 to 48 plants. This system fi ts the trend
followed by many hydroponic professionals, who are moving away from large numbers of
small plants to fewer larger ones. The Ebb & Gro uses two pumps and gravity to fl ood and drain the planters three or four times a day. The fi ll-drain cycles are controlled by a
controller unit that regulates the feeding schedule that the user sets on the built-in timer. The system can be set up in many different sizes and shapes to fi t the grower’s needs.
Once the Ebb & Gro is assembled, the end user can then start growing with the Recipe for Success Starter Kit. Each RFS kit contains nutrients and supplements to fuel the system, and includes the easy to master One-Formula-Per-Stage mixing chart. Products include: Rootech Cloning Gel-7g, B.C. Hydroponic Nutrients (Grow-500 ml, Boost-500 ml and Bloom-500 ml), Awesome Blossoms-125 ml, MagiCal-125 ml, SugarDaddy-250 ml, Root 66-250 ml, and Thrive Alive B-1 Red-125 ml and Green -125 ml. To learn more about Ebb & Gro and the Recipe for Success Starter Kit, visit www.capcontrollers.com or www.technafl ora.com.
– L.M.
A Breath of Freshmaker AirUnpleasant odours are no match for the Freshmaker! These charcoal fi bre fi lters are capable of removing foul-smelling particles from your indoor garden’s air in one pass, even at high fl ow rates. Their unique design and high-quality active carbon allow them to be both compact and highly effective, whether used for intake or exhaust on the front or back end of your ventilation system. Freshen up at your local indoor gardening retailer!
– E.Y.
FoxFarm Potting Soils Now in Smaller Sizes It’s grow time when you use new smaller sizes of FoxFarm’s popular potting soils! Happy Frog Potting Soil creates an ideal root-zone environment and promotes phenomenal growth rates. This great organic mix contains composted forest humus, Sphagnum peat, perlite, earthworm castings, bat guano, mycorrhizae and humic acids derived from leonardite. Oyster shells and dolomitic lime are also included to stabilize pH. Ocean Forest Potting Soil is a rich and light organic potting mix, so fertile that no additional feeding is necessary for the fi rst two to three weeks. Nutrient-rich soil encourages healthy root growth, disease resistance, and leafy foliage. Ask your favourite year ‘round garden retailer about this and other great FoxFarm products today!
– E.Y.
Phot
o: B
est Y
ield
Gar
den
Supp
ly
INDUSTRY NEWS CAN Max-Fans Keep your growing environment and equipment cool with
quiet, easy-to-install CAN Max-Fans. These high-output CAN
fans are designed to overcome the resistance of CAN fi lters,
and because they use energy-economic, low-amperage AC
motors, they won’t send your electricity bills through the roof.
Now available in 10” and 12” sizes, all tried-and-true CAN
Max-Fans include a fi ve-year manufacturer’s warranty. 8” and
14” sizes are also available. Blow into your local garden center
today to check out these and other great CAN products!
– E.Y.
Best Yield Garden Supply has Moved to a New AddressBest Yield Garden Supply has moved to a new address. The old address was: 3817 Valley Blvd, #C, Walnut, CA, 91789. Their new address is: Best Yield Garden Supply, 3503 W.
Temple Ave., #A, Pomona, CA, 91768. You can still email them at: [email protected], or visit: http://bestyield.tripod.com.
– A.S.
EZ-Clone Now Available
at Greenstar Plant ProductsGreenstar Plant Products is proud to partner with EZ-Clone to distribute the #1 cloning systems in the industry. Leave your cloning needs to the professionals! EZ-Clone has virtually taken the hassle and need for daily maintenance out of the cloning process. These award-winning aeroponic systems set the standard for results, effi ciency and ease of use. Roots develop in as little as 5 to 10 days with 100% success. It is so easy to use, you’ll start cloning in minutes. The EZ Clone Machine is currently available in three sizes to serve your growing needs; 30, 60, or 120 cutting units. They are manufactured with the highest quality plastics and include quality parts such as Danner Mag Drive Pumps. All systems include custom neoprene collars, high fl ow-rate irrigation system, external air intake system, leak resistant lid and a deep lid base for easy access. Call Greenstar Plant Products today to place your order and take a “spin” with EZ-Clone!
– A.O.
Photos: Advanced N
utrientsGROWING EXPERIMENT
I can’t believe that I’m actually getting results that are the envy of other growers! After many failed attempts – getting my hopes up, only to be let down again and again – I fi nally decided to buy from somebody else and change the products and advice I was getting and using.
The best move I ever made in my growing life was walking into a little hydroponic store on Maloney Boulevard in Gatineau, Québec. There, I met some of the most patient and professional people in the business. In a step-by-step manner, they went over every aspect of my operation with me – as I am about to do with you in this short article. Their products sell well by themselves, but once you have taken the time to learn how their products work and when to use them – in other words, how to care for and maintain the proper growing environment for beautiful fl owers and that give you an unbelievable sense of accomplishment and satisfaction when you fi nally get everything right – you’ll become addicted to their line of products.
When I started using Advanced Nutrients products, I immediately noticed an astonishing difference. I fi rst used a combination of Piranha, Tarantula and Voodoo Juice. These three products, used with Carbo Load, produce spectacular root growth and root mass, which really has to be seen to be believed.
Using a three part Advanced Nutrients’ Grow 2–1–4, Micro Well Water 5–0–1 and Bloom 0–5–4 feeding system, I immediately noticed faster growth, healthier plants and ultimately larger and heavier harvests.
I must admit that I was reluctant to use Grandma Enggy’s Extra Pure Humic Acid and Golden Honey Fulvic Acid, but they really did break down the plant food, making it easier for my favorite plants to eat, eat and eat some more. Thank you, Grandma Enggy!
Specialty products such as Bud Blood, Big Bud and Scorpion Juice greatly improved my plants’ performance and yield output. Bud Blood really got my plants to fl owers earlier, Big Bud is truly an amazing product to encourage bigger
and heavier fruit, and Scorpion Juice – used properly – stimulates defense mechanisms and enhances essence and aroma production.
These products may seem expensive in the beginning, but they will actually save you money, it’s that simple. These products are more concentrated, easier to use and most importantly of all, they really work. Why waste time and money, why live with the frustration of using an inferior product? Take a short-cut, go straight to your nearest hydroponic supplier and get on the right track to healthier, heavier and more profi table harvests that will bring a smile to your lips.
Finally and most importantly, your success is only as good as the advice you receive on how and when to use your products, what lighting and refl ector to use, etc. Proper pH and ppm levels are just as important as relative humidity levels and temperature averages during the day and at night.
Any good hydroponic store employee should be able to answer any and all of these questions. If they can’t, fi nd another store.
This is why I insist on thanking Mich for all his time, patience and knowledge and especially Jeffrey Coffl ey, former owner of Northern Lites in Gatineau, and now distributor of Advanced Nutrients products for all of Eastern Canada. He really believes in his products and stands by them with a no non-sense money back guaranty that has yet to be matched in the industry.
So, to all you growers out there who aren’t getting the result that you want or should be getting, don’t hesitate: success is no further away than the nearest hydroponic dealer. What do you have to lose, other than the frustration of hard work and investment for little or poor results?
Don’t give up, and grow smart with Advanced Nutrients. Jeff and his team made a believer out of me.
Hurrah, It’s Finally Working!
By Stephen
40THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photos: Advanced N
utrients
GROWING EXPERIMENT
I can’t believe that I’m actually getting results that are the envy of other growers! After many failed attempts – getting my hopes up, only to be let down again and again – I fi nally decided to buy from somebody else and change the products and advice I was getting and using.
The best move I ever made in my growing life was walking into a little hydroponic store on Maloney Boulevard in Gatineau, Québec. There, I met some of the most patient and professional people in the business. In a step-by-step manner, they went over every aspect of my operation with me – as I am about to do with you in this short article. Their products sell well by themselves, but once you have taken the time to learn how their products work and when to use them – in other words, how to care for and maintain the proper growing environment for beautiful fl owers and that give you an unbelievable sense of accomplishment and satisfaction when you fi nally get everything right – you’ll become addicted to their line of products.
When I started using Advanced Nutrients products, I immediately noticed an astonishing difference. I fi rst used a combination of Piranha, Tarantula and Voodoo Juice. These three products, used with Carbo Load, produce spectacular root growth and root mass, which really has to be seen to be believed.
Using a three part Advanced Nutrients’ Grow 2–1–4, Micro Well Water 5–0–1 and Bloom 0–5–4 feeding system, I immediately noticed faster growth, healthier plants and ultimately larger and heavier harvests.
I must admit that I was reluctant to use Grandma Enggy’s Extra Pure Humic Acid and Golden Honey Fulvic Acid, but they really did break down the plant food, making it easier for my favorite plants to eat, eat and eat some more. Thank you, Grandma Enggy!
Specialty products such as Bud Blood, Big Bud and Scorpion Juice greatly improved my plants’ performance and yield output. Bud Blood really got my plants to fl owers earlier, Big Bud is truly an amazing product to encourage bigger
and heavier fruit, and Scorpion Juice – used properly – stimulates defense mechanisms and enhances essence and aroma production.
These products may seem expensive in the beginning, but they will actually save you money, it’s that simple. These products are more concentrated, easier to use and most importantly of all, they really work. Why waste time and money, why live with the frustration of using an inferior product? Take a short-cut, go straight to your nearest hydroponic supplier and get on the right track to healthier, heavier and more profi table harvests that will bring a smile to your lips.
Finally and most importantly, your success is only as good as the advice you receive on how and when to use your products, what lighting and refl ector to use, etc. Proper pH and ppm levels are just as important as relative humidity levels and temperature averages during the day and at night.
Any good hydroponic store employee should be able to answer any and all of these questions. If they can’t, fi nd another store.
This is why I insist on thanking Mich for all his time, patience and knowledge and especially Jeffrey Coffl ey, former owner of Northern Lites in Gatineau, and now distributor of Advanced Nutrients products for all of Eastern Canada. He really believes in his products and stands by them with a no non-sense money back guaranty that has yet to be matched in the industry.
So, to all you growers out there who aren’t getting the result that you want or should be getting, don’t hesitate: success is no further away than the nearest hydroponic dealer. What do you have to lose, other than the frustration of hard work and investment for little or poor results?
Don’t give up, and grow smart with Advanced Nutrients. Jeff and his team made a believer out of me.
Hurrah, It’s Finally Working!
By Stephen
40THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
42THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Illustrations: Afabego
TECHNIQUES
As a breeder of plant genetics, making hybrids is part of my life’s work. A hybrid is created by the cross of two plants from different species, varieties or cultivars, or, on occasion, a different genus. Hybrids today are often more resistant than their parents.
When an atom hybridizes, the process of restructuring is known as hybridization.
I take two plants and genetically cross them to produce a new plant that has some of the characteristics of the original plants, but also additional characteristics that are unique to it. The fact that new combinations can be formed shows the continuous nature of the speciation process.
When working on hybridization, you may have to produce hundreds of plants before you discover the winner you have been looking for, so patience is a virtue.
Once several valuable specimens are obtained, the crossing can begin. You need male and female plants. One male can suffi ce to impregnate hundreds of females.
When I take seeds from these plants and sprout them, I basically get three dominant phenotypes and one recessive phenotype. One will be like the father, one like the mother, one a combination of both, and one, a recessive phenotype that can bring earlier genetics back out to be seen.
As a matter of fact, when you choose the types of plants to use, you need to really know your plants well. Different strains have different traits. Once you have decided which traits you want to add to your new hybrid, use one for the donor parent and one for the recipient parent. The male is sending the new characteristics to the female. For this, the two plants are mated or crossed and the progeny is screened for the desired trait. The progeny plants possessing the desired trait are then selected, and crossed back to the recipient parent. This process is repeated until the desired plant type is fi nally obtained, having all the characteristics of the recipient in addition to the trait being transferred. This exercise is known as backcrossing. Backcrossing involves both hybridization and selection.
Overall, the hallmark of selection lies in the human ability to choose the best from a cluster of many.
In his quest for more variability, man started experimenting with the hybridization of plants so as to achieve the perfect plant type. This process was actually the beginning of expedited evolution, since it led to the formation of new plant types artifi cially or due to human intervention at a much faster pace than it would have happened in nature. For example, the wheat we eat today has taken about 500 years to evolve to its present form through human intervention. This form of wheat would have taken thousands of years to evolve, had it been left to the natural evolution process.
In our modern world, many things have accelerated. Today, an item found on the other side of the planet can arrive at your door tomorrow. Many people get to plant the seeds they ordered online and pick through different phenotypes, all of them looking for the best. For one person to do this would take many years, but with many people doing it and staying in touch via the Internet, the knowledge comes fast and with it appear new strains.
I love plants, plants of all kinds. They are my favorite life form, they are teachers. I surround myself with plants in my home, at least 100 different kinds, and lots of cacti.
Until next time, keep it green, loving and full of light.
– Soma
Accelerating Plant Evolution:
A Quick Look at Hybridization
42THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Illustrations: Afabego
TECHNIQUES
As a breeder of plant genetics, making hybrids is part of my life’s work. A hybrid is created by the cross of two plants from different species, varieties or cultivars, or, on occasion, a different genus. Hybrids today are often more resistant than their parents.
When an atom hybridizes, the process of restructuring is known as hybridization.
I take two plants and genetically cross them to produce a new plant that has some of the characteristics of the original plants, but also additional characteristics that are unique to it. The fact that new combinations can be formed shows the continuous nature of the speciation process.
When working on hybridization, you may have to produce hundreds of plants before you discover the winner you have been looking for, so patience is a virtue.
Once several valuable specimens are obtained, the crossing can begin. You need male and female plants. One male can suffi ce to impregnate hundreds of females.
When I take seeds from these plants and sprout them, I basically get three dominant phenotypes and one recessive phenotype. One will be like the father, one like the mother, one a combination of both, and one, a recessive phenotype that can bring earlier genetics back out to be seen.
As a matter of fact, when you choose the types of plants to use, you need to really know your plants well. Different strains have different traits. Once you have decided which traits you want to add to your new hybrid, use one for the donor parent and one for the recipient parent. The male is sending the new characteristics to the female. For this, the two plants are mated or crossed and the progeny is screened for the desired trait. The progeny plants possessing the desired trait are then selected, and crossed back to the recipient parent. This process is repeated until the desired plant type is fi nally obtained, having all the characteristics of the recipient in addition to the trait being transferred. This exercise is known as backcrossing. Backcrossing involves both hybridization and selection.
Overall, the hallmark of selection lies in the human ability to choose the best from a cluster of many.
In his quest for more variability, man started experimenting with the hybridization of plants so as to achieve the perfect plant type. This process was actually the beginning of expedited evolution, since it led to the formation of new plant types artifi cially or due to human intervention at a much faster pace than it would have happened in nature. For example, the wheat we eat today has taken about 500 years to evolve to its present form through human intervention. This form of wheat would have taken thousands of years to evolve, had it been left to the natural evolution process.
In our modern world, many things have accelerated. Today, an item found on the other side of the planet can arrive at your door tomorrow. Many people get to plant the seeds they ordered online and pick through different phenotypes, all of them looking for the best. For one person to do this would take many years, but with many people doing it and staying in touch via the Internet, the knowledge comes fast and with it appear new strains.
I love plants, plants of all kinds. They are my favorite life form, they are teachers. I surround myself with plants in my home, at least 100 different kinds, and lots of cacti.
Until next time, keep it green, loving and full of light.
– Soma
Accelerating Plant Evolution:
A Quick Look at Hybridization
Phot
o: D
okto
r Doo
mPLANT HEALTH
fumigate and rid indoor growing areas of spider mites, thrips, white fl ies, aphids, scales, fungus gnats and most other crop-damaging insects in spaces up to 3,000 cubic feet, 5,500 cubic feet and 12,500 cubic feet respectively. To know what size is best for your grow room, calculate the cubic feet as follows: L x W x H = (volume in cubic feet). Be sure to use the right size of Dr. Doom total release fogger for your indoor area – more is not needed.
2 – Our Distribution Team is Expanding: Doktor Doom is available from National Garden Wholesale: 1 888 478-6544, Bloomington Wholesale Garden Supplies: 1 800 316-1306 and Hydrofarm West: 1 800 634-9990 or Hydrofarm East: 1 888 780-4567. Dr. Doom proudly announces that Hydrofarm is now distributing our products. Please contact Hydrofarm West at 1 800 634-9990 or Hydrofarm East at 1 888 780-4567 for more information. Contact Dr. Doom at [email protected] or 1 800 452-0023 for more information and to fi nd the distributor closest to you.
Doktor Doom takes insects seriously – it kills them!
44THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photos: Doktor D
oom
PLANT HEALTH
To Prevent Spider Mites Infestation, Two Products1 – Doktor Doom One-Two Punch for Spider Mite Eradication:
Apply Doktor Doom Spider Mite Knockout insecticide plant spray in short bursts to the undersides of the foliage and immediately after this, use a Dr. Doom total release fogger. This application will need to be repeated every 3 to 4 days for three life cycles to completely eradicate spider mites. Always do this in the dark (no HID lights on) and extinguish any open fl ames prior to fogging.
Learn the life cycles of the insects that you are trying to eradicate. Spider mites, for example, lay eggs when they smell a product trying to kill them. So to completely eradicate the spider mite, it is best to use our One–Two Punch for spider mite eradication.
2 – Doktor Doom Spider Mite Knockout Insecticide Plant Spray:Doktor Doom Spider Mite Knockout insecticide plant spray contains 0.20% pyrethrin and does not have any other active ingredients. It should be used in conjunction with Dr. Doom’s total release foggers. Our plant spray is equipped
with a special spray valve that will spray in all directions, even upside down for hard to reach areas. Unlike existing products that require saturation of the foliage, the high concentration of pyrethrin in this product requires short bursts and a light misting of the underside of the foliage only – do not soak the foliage with this product.
Components That Meet US Standards1 – Doktor Doom foggers are now proudly made in the USA:Dr. Doom total release foggers contain natural pyrethrin at 0.40% pyrethrin and
2.0% piperoynl butoxide. These foggers kill insects on contact and do not leave any residues on the foliage.
2 – Dr. Doom products are made without perfumes, attars or unnecessary oils, thus making the foliage 100% usable after harvest.You can make and consume essential oils and pressed products with 100% confi dence that you are not ingesting chemicals that could be harmful to your health, as natural pyrethrin and piperoynl butoxide biodegrade in a matter of hours after exposure to sunlight (HID lighting), air fl ow and humidity. It is always best to give your plants a fi nal rinse with water prior to harvesting, just to wash away any dust, dirt or other airborne particles that may have come to rest on the foliage.
New Packaging Sizes to Choose from and New Distributors1 – Doktor Doom has repackaged its Total Release Insecticide Foggers:Now our foggers are available in a 3 oz can, a 5.5 oz can and a 12.5 oz can. These cans will effectively
PEST CONTROLwith Doktor Doom’s Foggers and Insecticide Plant Sprays
By G. K.
The new 3 oz, 5.5 oz and 12.5 oz cans
Phot
o: D
anie
l For
tin
lines in its center. Like the majority of the other begonias in this group, these prefer a warm and humid climate. Some however resist to a cool temperature around 16°C. Begonias can be rather easily cloned using leaf cuttings. To do this, take a healthy leaf in the middle of spring and put it on the surface of a rooting mixture. Make sure that the bottom of this leaf is in close contact with the substrate. Nick the main veins and ensure continuous humidifi cation (in some cases, the reproduction environment is placed under a mini greenhouse or inside a translucent plastic back.) Roots will develop from the nicks. The young plantlets will later be re-potted.
Bambusiforme begonias are also very interesting for indoor gardening. A great number of cultivars are available, since they are so easy to reproduce by cuttings. Since reproduction is easy for all, it is very easy to exchange this type of plant and donated plants are rarely identifi ed. Plants grow from 60 cm to 1.5 m high; their elongated oblique leaves often bear a silvery punctuation that makes the plants particularly attractive. The plant also develops fl ower clusters that increase the interest for this group. The cultivation of begonias is relatively easy; the plant requires a good horticultural mix, good lighting but no direct sunlight and a growth temperature between 18 and 22°C. Water regularly, but not too abundantly.
Fungal Diseases to AvoidPowdery mildew is a fungal infection that sometimes affects begonias. You can confi rm its presence if you see whitish or brownish stains that vary in size on the leaves and stems. You may also see a grayish mold developing on the foliage, also a sign that the plant is contaminated by a pathogenic fungi. It is then advised to spray a fungicide.
Photos: Daniel Fortin
The Begonia genus is a vast group of plants native from the tropical and subtropical regions of the planet. They are found in abundance in the Caribbean’s, in Mexico, in Central America, and in South America. There are approximately 1500 species and thousands of perennial non-rustic cultivars grown for their fl owers or their foliage.
The genus is dedicated to Michel Bégon (1638-1710), an offi cer of the French Royal Navy who was also administrator in the French Antilles and in New France. He had, as many noble men of the era, a great interest for botany. He promoted and participated in the shipping of plants to France.
Begonias are herbaceous or somewhat woody-stemmed plants with a height that varies according to the taxons, between a few centimeters and two to 2.5 meters. They are often divided into three groups: Tuberous begonias (Begonia x tuberhybrida), fi brous begonias, including numerous cultivars from the species well known as a fl ower bed plant (B. semperfl orens) and rhizomatous begonias. There is also another classifi cation, which refers to the plants’ bearing. When begonias have an erect stem, a fi brous stalk and drooping infl orescences, we call it a bambusiforme stem begonia. Shrub begonias are more compact and have ramifi ed stems. Socotrona and hybrid begonias have larger, more colored fl owers, limper stems on more compact plants. Rhizomatous begonias have leaves growing on creeping rhizomes and tuberous begonias grow from tubers. The genus has unisexual fl owers: male and female fl owers develop on the same plant, but together. The female fl owers can be recognized by the winged ovaries at their
base. Male fl owers are often more decorative.
Tuberous begonias are sometimes sold as indoor plants for the beauty of their fl owers. When receiving plants, re-pot them in a mixture made up of half tropical plant soil mix and half sand and perlite. This will ensure a proper drainage. Begonias require a very brightly lit environment, but no direct sunlight. During growth and fl owering, keep the temperature above 16°C, water regularly but moderately. These plants require a rest period; during that time, water only to prevent the roots from drying up.
Among indoor begonias, the Begonia Rex, a botanical species originating from Assam, India, has given a large amount of decorative foliage cultivars. This Begonia was fi rst introduced in England in the middle of the 18th century; horticulturists produced a large number of hybrids regrouped under the name B. rex-culturum. Most bear oblique leaves, often very wafered, with a dentate margin or sharp lobes, approximately 20 to 30 cm long and 10 to 15 cm wide, richly colored in variable shades, and bearing drawings or stains of silver, pink, bronze, read, and purple. Many cultivars are available, one of the most famous of which is the old ‘Merry Christmas’ with dark red leaves, widely stained, at the center of the petiole, in pink, silver, and green. They require a bright light, but no direct sunlight and a growing temperature between 18 and 20°C. They also require a humus rich soil, which will be well drained if you add coarse sand and perlite.
The Iron Cross Begonia (Begonia mansoniana) is one of the most beautiful rhizomatous begonias. Its common name comes from its wafered and hairy leaf shape, which is a medium green and bears a kind of black “cross” in its center. The ‘Cleopatra’ cultivar is another one of many easy to cultivate rhizomatous begonias stemming from hybridization, which developed a great number of leaves which sharp lobes and a reddish-brown petiole with yellowish green
46THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
BOTANICAL DICTIONARY
Begonias As Indoor Plants By Daniel Fortin
Phot
o: D
anie
l For
tin
lines in its center. Like the majority of the other begonias in this group, these prefer a warm and humid climate. Some however resist to a cool temperature around 16°C. Begonias can be rather easily cloned using leaf cuttings. To do this, take a healthy leaf in the middle of spring and put it on the surface of a rooting mixture. Make sure that the bottom of this leaf is in close contact with the substrate. Nick the main veins and ensure continuous humidifi cation (in some cases, the reproduction environment is placed under a mini greenhouse or inside a translucent plastic back.) Roots will develop from the nicks. The young plantlets will later be re-potted.
Bambusiforme begonias are also very interesting for indoor gardening. A great number of cultivars are available, since they are so easy to reproduce by cuttings. Since reproduction is easy for all, it is very easy to exchange this type of plant and donated plants are rarely identifi ed. Plants grow from 60 cm to 1.5 m high; their elongated oblique leaves often bear a silvery punctuation that makes the plants particularly attractive. The plant also develops fl ower clusters that increase the interest for this group. The cultivation of begonias is relatively easy; the plant requires a good horticultural mix, good lighting but no direct sunlight and a growth temperature between 18 and 22°C. Water regularly, but not too abundantly.
Fungal Diseases to AvoidPowdery mildew is a fungal infection that sometimes affects begonias. You can confi rm its presence if you see whitish or brownish stains that vary in size on the leaves and stems. You may also see a grayish mold developing on the foliage, also a sign that the plant is contaminated by a pathogenic fungi. It is then advised to spray a fungicide.
Photos: Daniel Fortin
The Begonia genus is a vast group of plants native from the tropical and subtropical regions of the planet. They are found in abundance in the Caribbean’s, in Mexico, in Central America, and in South America. There are approximately 1500 species and thousands of perennial non-rustic cultivars grown for their fl owers or their foliage.
The genus is dedicated to Michel Bégon (1638-1710), an offi cer of the French Royal Navy who was also administrator in the French Antilles and in New France. He had, as many noble men of the era, a great interest for botany. He promoted and participated in the shipping of plants to France.
Begonias are herbaceous or somewhat woody-stemmed plants with a height that varies according to the taxons, between a few centimeters and two to 2.5 meters. They are often divided into three groups: Tuberous begonias (Begonia x tuberhybrida), fi brous begonias, including numerous cultivars from the species well known as a fl ower bed plant (B. semperfl orens) and rhizomatous begonias. There is also another classifi cation, which refers to the plants’ bearing. When begonias have an erect stem, a fi brous stalk and drooping infl orescences, we call it a bambusiforme stem begonia. Shrub begonias are more compact and have ramifi ed stems. Socotrona and hybrid begonias have larger, more colored fl owers, limper stems on more compact plants. Rhizomatous begonias have leaves growing on creeping rhizomes and tuberous begonias grow from tubers. The genus has unisexual fl owers: male and female fl owers develop on the same plant, but together. The female fl owers can be recognized by the winged ovaries at their
base. Male fl owers are often more decorative.
Tuberous begonias are sometimes sold as indoor plants for the beauty of their fl owers. When receiving plants, re-pot them in a mixture made up of half tropical plant soil mix and half sand and perlite. This will ensure a proper drainage. Begonias require a very brightly lit environment, but no direct sunlight. During growth and fl owering, keep the temperature above 16°C, water regularly but moderately. These plants require a rest period; during that time, water only to prevent the roots from drying up.
Among indoor begonias, the Begonia Rex, a botanical species originating from Assam, India, has given a large amount of decorative foliage cultivars. This Begonia was fi rst introduced in England in the middle of the 18th century; horticulturists produced a large number of hybrids regrouped under the name B. rex-culturum. Most bear oblique leaves, often very wafered, with a dentate margin or sharp lobes, approximately 20 to 30 cm long and 10 to 15 cm wide, richly colored in variable shades, and bearing drawings or stains of silver, pink, bronze, read, and purple. Many cultivars are available, one of the most famous of which is the old ‘Merry Christmas’ with dark red leaves, widely stained, at the center of the petiole, in pink, silver, and green. They require a bright light, but no direct sunlight and a growing temperature between 18 and 20°C. They also require a humus rich soil, which will be well drained if you add coarse sand and perlite.
The Iron Cross Begonia (Begonia mansoniana) is one of the most beautiful rhizomatous begonias. Its common name comes from its wafered and hairy leaf shape, which is a medium green and bears a kind of black “cross” in its center. The ‘Cleopatra’ cultivar is another one of many easy to cultivate rhizomatous begonias stemming from hybridization, which developed a great number of leaves which sharp lobes and a reddish-brown petiole with yellowish green
46THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
BOTANICAL DICTIONARY
Begonias As Indoor Plants By Daniel Fortin
48THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photo: Bruno BredouxBOTANICAL DICTIONARY
The Fabaceae family to which the clover belongs includes 18,000 species divided into three subfamilies and nearly 400 genera. Fabaceae are also called leguminous plants, even though not all legumes are Fabaceae. Even though most leguminous plants – which live in symbiotic relation with the bacteria colonizing their roots – are fi led under the Fabaceae name, there are two other leguminous families, each including few varieties, but enough to form distinct groups: Cesalpinaceae (cassia, carob, locust, etc.) and Mimosaceae (mimosa, acacia, albizia, etc.). This classifi cation must however be used with caution, since the majority of botanists do not agree on fi nal nomenclature. This means that, most often, we fi nd the word “legumes” as a pure and simple synonym of Fabaceae.
The Clover’s Family is Extremely DiverseFabaceae are dicotyledone plants (young plantlets bear two cotyledons) and as fl owering plants they play an important agricultural and economic role for humans. Because of the characteristic shape of their fl owers and the placing of their petals in butterfl y wings, Fabaceae were long called Papilionaceae. The bacteria found in the Fabaceae’s root nodes, such as rhizobium, are responsible for a phenomenon called trophic symbiosis, which allows the plant to trap the air’s nitrogen and to make it its own at the root mass level, in the shape of a nitrogen substance that forms in main nutritive element. This function is benefi cial in many regards:
• These high nitrogen legumes can become “green nutrients”;• They can be grown on nitrogen-poor soil;• They can easily do without any nitrogen input in their nutritive program;• They offer a high source of protein for human and animal consumption;• They are also an important source of fatty substances and of wood production;
49VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5 THE INDOOR GARDENER
Phot
o: B
runo
Bre
doux
BOTANICAL DICTIONARY
• Finally, some species have become much-loved ornamental plants.
The Fabaceae family includes plants that live in the tropics as well as in northern zones. It includes trees, shrubs, vines, vegetables and herbaceous or fodder plants. Dry legumes, such as lentils, beans, snow peas, red peas, chick peas, etc., make up the most important subgroup. Next come fodder plants such as clover, sweet peas, alfalfa, soy, esparcet and feed peas. Another large portion of the Fabaceae is closer to ornamental fl owers (lupin, broom, gorse, wisteria, lotus, etc.) Finally, it includes plants known for their fat and oil production (peanut), plants used as condiments (licorice), medicinal plants (kidney-vetch, St.John’s-wort) and plants used for their wood (black locust).
Clover: Characteristics and MythologyWell positioned within Fabaceae is the clover (trifolium, from the Latin meaning “three leaves”). It itself includes a very wide variety, with no less than 240 species, which we will not all name here! Among these 240 species, only 30 or so are of interest, either as animal fodder or as ornamental plants on lawns or fl owerbeds, or for honey production. When we think about a clover leaf, we most usually imagine three green heart-shaped leaves. We are far from thinking about the actual diversity of clover varieties. We forget the great variety of foliage coloring – from tender green to two-toned, to chocolate, some bearing white fl owers, some yellowish pink or incarnate – and the appearance of the
foliage itself, which can include from three to... 18 leaves (the current record)! So fi nding a four leaf clover is perhaps easier than we think. During the last edition of the gardening Festival in Chaumont-sur-Loire, France, artists and landscape architects Ludovic Smagghe and Nicolas Menu designed a garden containing 37 hybrid clover species, giving visitors a glimpse of all the possible foliage shades and bearing combinations from 3 to 10 leaves. A lawn was seeded with the Luclair variety, a hybrid from an ancient white clover strain (trifolium repens L.) with a two toned foliage (green and white) that offers some four leaves specimens.
The festival’s visitors could thus practice this ancestral hunt, the quest for the ultimate good luck charm, the four leaf clover. The fi rst leaf represents hope, the second faith, the third love and the fourth, of course, luck. The search can be long, however... The chance of fi nding a four leaf clover in nature (not in an artist’s garden seeded with mutant plants) is one for every 10,000 three leaf clover. Scientists attribute this occurrence to a very rare mutation in the foliage of trifolium repens L. It could be caused by environmental factors, such as pollution or the composition of some soils. Spring would be the best time to “hunt” for four leaf clover, because vegetation is abundant and chlorophyll production gives leaves a more intense green. In the Middle Ages, when the clubs showed up in divination card games, it announced, for the person who had picked it, an important amount of money coming in. This symbolism had been attributed to
Plant Classification9 – Among Fabaceae: Clover
By Bruno Bredoux
48THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photo: Bruno Bredoux
BOTANICAL DICTIONARY
The Fabaceae family to which the clover belongs includes 18,000 species divided into three subfamilies and nearly 400 genera. Fabaceae are also called leguminous plants, even though not all legumes are Fabaceae. Even though most leguminous plants – which live in symbiotic relation with the bacteria colonizing their roots – are fi led under the Fabaceae name, there are two other leguminous families, each including few varieties, but enough to form distinct groups: Cesalpinaceae (cassia, carob, locust, etc.) and Mimosaceae (mimosa, acacia, albizia, etc.). This classifi cation must however be used with caution, since the majority of botanists do not agree on fi nal nomenclature. This means that, most often, we fi nd the word “legumes” as a pure and simple synonym of Fabaceae.
The Clover’s Family is Extremely DiverseFabaceae are dicotyledone plants (young plantlets bear two cotyledons) and as fl owering plants they play an important agricultural and economic role for humans. Because of the characteristic shape of their fl owers and the placing of their petals in butterfl y wings, Fabaceae were long called Papilionaceae. The bacteria found in the Fabaceae’s root nodes, such as rhizobium, are responsible for a phenomenon called trophic symbiosis, which allows the plant to trap the air’s nitrogen and to make it its own at the root mass level, in the shape of a nitrogen substance that forms in main nutritive element. This function is benefi cial in many regards:
• These high nitrogen legumes can become “green nutrients”;• They can be grown on nitrogen-poor soil;• They can easily do without any nitrogen input in their nutritive program;• They offer a high source of protein for human and animal consumption;• They are also an important source of fatty substances and of wood production;
49VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5 THE INDOOR GARDENER
Phot
o: B
runo
Bre
doux
BOTANICAL DICTIONARY
• Finally, some species have become much-loved ornamental plants.
The Fabaceae family includes plants that live in the tropics as well as in northern zones. It includes trees, shrubs, vines, vegetables and herbaceous or fodder plants. Dry legumes, such as lentils, beans, snow peas, red peas, chick peas, etc., make up the most important subgroup. Next come fodder plants such as clover, sweet peas, alfalfa, soy, esparcet and feed peas. Another large portion of the Fabaceae is closer to ornamental fl owers (lupin, broom, gorse, wisteria, lotus, etc.) Finally, it includes plants known for their fat and oil production (peanut), plants used as condiments (licorice), medicinal plants (kidney-vetch, St.John’s-wort) and plants used for their wood (black locust).
Clover: Characteristics and MythologyWell positioned within Fabaceae is the clover (trifolium, from the Latin meaning “three leaves”). It itself includes a very wide variety, with no less than 240 species, which we will not all name here! Among these 240 species, only 30 or so are of interest, either as animal fodder or as ornamental plants on lawns or fl owerbeds, or for honey production. When we think about a clover leaf, we most usually imagine three green heart-shaped leaves. We are far from thinking about the actual diversity of clover varieties. We forget the great variety of foliage coloring – from tender green to two-toned, to chocolate, some bearing white fl owers, some yellowish pink or incarnate – and the appearance of the
foliage itself, which can include from three to... 18 leaves (the current record)! So fi nding a four leaf clover is perhaps easier than we think. During the last edition of the gardening Festival in Chaumont-sur-Loire, France, artists and landscape architects Ludovic Smagghe and Nicolas Menu designed a garden containing 37 hybrid clover species, giving visitors a glimpse of all the possible foliage shades and bearing combinations from 3 to 10 leaves. A lawn was seeded with the Luclair variety, a hybrid from an ancient white clover strain (trifolium repens L.) with a two toned foliage (green and white) that offers some four leaves specimens.
The festival’s visitors could thus practice this ancestral hunt, the quest for the ultimate good luck charm, the four leaf clover. The fi rst leaf represents hope, the second faith, the third love and the fourth, of course, luck. The search can be long, however... The chance of fi nding a four leaf clover in nature (not in an artist’s garden seeded with mutant plants) is one for every 10,000 three leaf clover. Scientists attribute this occurrence to a very rare mutation in the foliage of trifolium repens L. It could be caused by environmental factors, such as pollution or the composition of some soils. Spring would be the best time to “hunt” for four leaf clover, because vegetation is abundant and chlorophyll production gives leaves a more intense green. In the Middle Ages, when the clubs showed up in divination card games, it announced, for the person who had picked it, an important amount of money coming in. This symbolism had been attributed to
Plant Classification9 – Among Fabaceae: Clover
By Bruno Bredoux
Photo: D.R
.
clover by fortune tellers, astrologists, and soothsayers since the dawn of time, even though we do not know its origins (which are probably tied to its association with games and the winnings they entail). From there to money granting happiness, there was only a step. And hence clover became a symbol of happiness!
Clover is also a symbol of Ireland, the green country where it grows in abundance. Clover fi rst entered Irish mythology in the fi fth century. Indeed, Ireland was the fi rst non-Roman country to be evangelized by the son of a Gallo-Roman offi cer named Pádraig, caught in slavery and then freed to become a shepherd. He then converted to Christianity and became a preacher. He was later canonized under the name Naomh Pádraig, i.e. Saint Patrick (c. 385-461). As the legend goes, when Pádraig faced the daunting task of explaining the mystery of the Saint Trinity to his followers, he found that the simple three leaves of the clover gave him the most appropriate illustration to make his sermons more accessible to future converts. Symbols linked to the number three were already abundant in Celtic society, such as in the triskele and the isosceles triangle. Clover was added later, giving rise to an association of three saints who became a trio of patron saints for the country: Patrick (Naomh Pádraig), Colomban (Naomh Colmcille) and Brigid (Naomh Bríde). For legend to be complete, Clover is also found under three different names in Ireland! First, a Celtic word, “shamrock”, which becomes “seamróg” in Irish Gaelic and “seamrag” in Scottish Gaelic, then the word “clover”, stemming from Germanic dialects, and, fi nally, derived from the Latin trifolium, the word “trefoil”. It was only in the 17th century,
however, that clover started being used as a symbol of St. Patrick’s Day. It was in 1737 in Boston, in the United States, that the very fi rst St. Patrick’s Day as we know it was held, not in the old country.
A Few Clover Varieties Grown in North AmericaTrifolium pratense L. – common clover, red clover or purple clover (single-cut and double-cut red clover): Perennial, but short-lived (one to three years) since it has a tendency to have lower yields a year after year, so growers rotate its culture over an average of two years. It likes very humid and highly acidic soils. Since it does not dry well, it is little used as fodder, as it molds. It is however good silage and makes for good pastures if associated with other leguminous plants. Its main use today is to be developed for green nutrients. There are two strains of red clover: the double-cut fl owers the fi rst year, whereas the single-cut only fl owers
the second year.
Trifolium hybridum L. – Alsike Clover: Perennial, but grown like a biennial plant, it is re-sown every two years. It particularly likes waterlogged soils with a reduced drainage and it tolerates very acidic soils. It is grown for hay (one cut per year) and as pasture. Farmers, however, do not like it much because it is dangerous for horses: it causes excessive photosensitivity and can potentially cause irreversible liver damage. It must absolutely be banned from hay or pastures for horses.
Trifolium repens L. – White Clover (low growth and high growth): Short-lived perennial, whose culture can be spread over fi ve years. It is usually re-sown every two years. White clover (trifolium repens L.) comes in two varieties that are similar but for the height of the plant (high or low) and farmers mainly grow three types, according to their height (from the shortest to the highest): wild white clover, creeping clover, and Ladino clover. These strains do not tolerate drought and require high and constant humidity. They are mainly grown as pastures, since they are the most palatable of all clover varieties and because herds grazing them to the ground do not slow their growth. This characteristic is owed to its runners, which crawl on the ground and have very deep roots. One of the major advantages of white clover is that it can be sown on frozen ground.
Trifolium subterraneum L. – Underground Clover or Kura Clover: Perennial with a lifespan of fi ve years or more. This variety’s resistance is due to its strong and dense network of rhizomes (or underground stems), which offers
50THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
BOTANICAL DICTIONARY
Photo: D.R
.
clover by fortune tellers, astrologists, and soothsayers since the dawn of time, even though we do not know its origins (which are probably tied to its association with games and the winnings they entail). From there to money granting happiness, there was only a step. And hence clover became a symbol of happiness!
Clover is also a symbol of Ireland, the green country where it grows in abundance. Clover fi rst entered Irish mythology in the fi fth century. Indeed, Ireland was the fi rst non-Roman country to be evangelized by the son of a Gallo-Roman offi cer named Pádraig, caught in slavery and then freed to become a shepherd. He then converted to Christianity and became a preacher. He was later canonized under the name Naomh Pádraig, i.e. Saint Patrick (c. 385-461). As the legend goes, when Pádraig faced the daunting task of explaining the mystery of the Saint Trinity to his followers, he found that the simple three leaves of the clover gave him the most appropriate illustration to make his sermons more accessible to future converts. Symbols linked to the number three were already abundant in Celtic society, such as in the triskele and the isosceles triangle. Clover was added later, giving rise to an association of three saints who became a trio of patron saints for the country: Patrick (Naomh Pádraig), Colomban (Naomh Colmcille) and Brigid (Naomh Bríde). For legend to be complete, Clover is also found under three different names in Ireland! First, a Celtic word, “shamrock”, which becomes “seamróg” in Irish Gaelic and “seamrag” in Scottish Gaelic, then the word “clover”, stemming from Germanic dialects, and, fi nally, derived from the Latin trifolium, the word “trefoil”. It was only in the 17th century,
however, that clover started being used as a symbol of St. Patrick’s Day. It was in 1737 in Boston, in the United States, that the very fi rst St. Patrick’s Day as we know it was held, not in the old country.
A Few Clover Varieties Grown in North AmericaTrifolium pratense L. – common clover, red clover or purple clover (single-cut and double-cut red clover): Perennial, but short-lived (one to three years) since it has a tendency to have lower yields a year after year, so growers rotate its culture over an average of two years. It likes very humid and highly acidic soils. Since it does not dry well, it is little used as fodder, as it molds. It is however good silage and makes for good pastures if associated with other leguminous plants. Its main use today is to be developed for green nutrients. There are two strains of red clover: the double-cut fl owers the fi rst year, whereas the single-cut only fl owers
the second year.
Trifolium hybridum L. – Alsike Clover: Perennial, but grown like a biennial plant, it is re-sown every two years. It particularly likes waterlogged soils with a reduced drainage and it tolerates very acidic soils. It is grown for hay (one cut per year) and as pasture. Farmers, however, do not like it much because it is dangerous for horses: it causes excessive photosensitivity and can potentially cause irreversible liver damage. It must absolutely be banned from hay or pastures for horses.
Trifolium repens L. – White Clover (low growth and high growth): Short-lived perennial, whose culture can be spread over fi ve years. It is usually re-sown every two years. White clover (trifolium repens L.) comes in two varieties that are similar but for the height of the plant (high or low) and farmers mainly grow three types, according to their height (from the shortest to the highest): wild white clover, creeping clover, and Ladino clover. These strains do not tolerate drought and require high and constant humidity. They are mainly grown as pastures, since they are the most palatable of all clover varieties and because herds grazing them to the ground do not slow their growth. This characteristic is owed to its runners, which crawl on the ground and have very deep roots. One of the major advantages of white clover is that it can be sown on frozen ground.
Trifolium subterraneum L. – Underground Clover or Kura Clover: Perennial with a lifespan of fi ve years or more. This variety’s resistance is due to its strong and dense network of rhizomes (or underground stems), which offers
50THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
BOTANICAL DICTIONARY
© 2008 Technaflora Plant Products Ltd.Technaflora Plant Products Ltd.Tel: (604) 468-4769 Fax: (604) 468-4758 Toll Free: (800) 586-1211
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it the possibility of ever denser multiplication. Patience is required before it colonizes a plot of land. It must absolutely be associated with the proper rhizobium and it is very fragile the fi rst year. Once implanted, it tolerates cold weather and cattle grazing, and tolerates poor soils, with lower than average pH and drainage. Kura Clover is essentially grown for pastures.
Melitotus alba Medikus – White Sweet Clover: Slow growth biennial, fl owering only the second year, it is mostly grown as green nutrient or to lighten soils by improving the aeration of the underground layer. Its coarse and long stems and the presence of coumarin in its composition make it a clover that is not very popular with cattle. Moreover, if sweet clover hay becomes moldy, bishydroxycoumarin can develop, and it is an anticoagulant that is fatal to many animals.
Melitotus offi cinalis (L.) – Yellow Sweet Clover: Slow growth biennial, this sweet clover has a better fl avor than its white cousin. It is more palatable and has a better fragrance, which is why cattle prefer it and why it is used in pastures. Bees also like it, making it interesting for beekeepers. Yellow sweet clover does not fl ower in its fi rst year, but develops rapidly during the spring of its second year. It is most often used as stored fodder and silage, because its
moldy hay can also develop bishydroxycoumarin.
Trifolium incarnatum – Crimson Clover: It is recognizable by its pale green, and downy foliage, by its bright red fl owering tops, and by its stem, which can reach 30 to 50 cm high. It has a single node-rich taproot. It is little cultivated in Canada because it is not resistant to cold temperatures. It requires a soil pH between 5 and 7.
Trifolium alexandrinum – Egyptian Clover: Similar
to the crimson clover, but varying in height between 30 cm and 1.2 m, with a slightly downy foliage, a hollow stem, and whitish yellow fl owers. It tolerates dryer soils and pH varying between 6.5 and 7.5, as well as fi ne sand soils.
Other varieties grown: Trifolium resupinatum L. – Persian
Clover; Trifolium fragiferum L. – strawberry clover; Trifolium vesiculosum Savi – arrowleaf clover; Lotus corniculatis – Bird’s foot trefoil; variations on Trifolium incarnatum – white fl ower crimson clover, kidney vetch (Anthyllis vulneraria); etc.
52THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
BOTANICAL DICTIONARY
Industry News: Greenstar is Proud to Distribute Hydro-LogicSerious gardeners cheer! Hydro-Logic Purifi cation Systems
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water fi ltered down to 5 microns. It weighs 6.4 lbs. has a fi lter
capacity of 3,000 gallons and comes with everything you
need to get started.
The choice is clear, choose the best for your customers and
place your order with Greenstar Plant Products for Hydro-
Logic Purifi cation Systems today! – A.O.
© 2008 Technaflora Plant Products Ltd.Technaflora Plant Products Ltd.Tel: (604) 468-4769 Fax: (604) 468-4758 Toll Free: (800) 586-1211
www.technaflora.com
2-6-66-4-3
CONVENTIONAL ORGANICS PURA VIDA ORGANICS™
&
™
Yes, organic hydroponic growers can have it all!
PURA VIDA MEANS PURE LIFE
The heart of organics with the performance of mineral salts.
✔ Substantial N-P-K✔ Total Micro Nutrient Complex✔ Rapid Green Foliage✔ Heavy Blossoms and Fruits✔ Nose Friendly
✔ Certified For Organic Crop Production✔ No Irrigation Line Clogging✔ Vegan, No Animal Bi-Products✔ Pure Results
Photo: Rapaz Frères - Illustration: G
reenstar
it the possibility of ever denser multiplication. Patience is required before it colonizes a plot of land. It must absolutely be associated with the proper rhizobium and it is very fragile the fi rst year. Once implanted, it tolerates cold weather and cattle grazing, and tolerates poor soils, with lower than average pH and drainage. Kura Clover is essentially grown for pastures.
Melitotus alba Medikus – White Sweet Clover: Slow growth biennial, fl owering only the second year, it is mostly grown as green nutrient or to lighten soils by improving the aeration of the underground layer. Its coarse and long stems and the presence of coumarin in its composition make it a clover that is not very popular with cattle. Moreover, if sweet clover hay becomes moldy, bishydroxycoumarin can develop, and it is an anticoagulant that is fatal to many animals.
Melitotus offi cinalis (L.) – Yellow Sweet Clover: Slow growth biennial, this sweet clover has a better fl avor than its white cousin. It is more palatable and has a better fragrance, which is why cattle prefer it and why it is used in pastures. Bees also like it, making it interesting for beekeepers. Yellow sweet clover does not fl ower in its fi rst year, but develops rapidly during the spring of its second year. It is most often used as stored fodder and silage, because its
moldy hay can also develop bishydroxycoumarin.
Trifolium incarnatum – Crimson Clover: It is recognizable by its pale green, and downy foliage, by its bright red fl owering tops, and by its stem, which can reach 30 to 50 cm high. It has a single node-rich taproot. It is little cultivated in Canada because it is not resistant to cold temperatures. It requires a soil pH between 5 and 7.
Trifolium alexandrinum – Egyptian Clover: Similar
to the crimson clover, but varying in height between 30 cm and 1.2 m, with a slightly downy foliage, a hollow stem, and whitish yellow fl owers. It tolerates dryer soils and pH varying between 6.5 and 7.5, as well as fi ne sand soils.
Other varieties grown: Trifolium resupinatum L. – Persian
Clover; Trifolium fragiferum L. – strawberry clover; Trifolium vesiculosum Savi – arrowleaf clover; Lotus corniculatis – Bird’s foot trefoil; variations on Trifolium incarnatum – white fl ower crimson clover, kidney vetch (Anthyllis vulneraria); etc.
52THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
BOTANICAL DICTIONARY
Industry News: Greenstar is Proud to Distribute Hydro-LogicSerious gardeners cheer! Hydro-Logic Purifi cation Systems
are now distributed by Greenstar Plant Products. Hydro-
Logic Purifi cation Systems specialize in a wide range of
water purifi cation products exclusively for the hydroponics
and gardening industry. Serious gardeners realize just how
important reverse osmosis (RO) water is for a healthy and
successful crop. It’s well known that the main cause of nutrient
lockout and defi ciencies is untreated, high ppm water. Reverse
osmosis and chlorine free water are essential to bio-organic
growing methods and all forms of hydroponics. Greenstar
offers three sizes of Hydro-Logic reverse osmosis systems and
two sizes of de-chlorinators.
The Hydro-Logic Merlin Garden Pro reverse osmosis is
a revolutionary, high fl ow reverse osmosis system rated for
light commercial use. It produces 30 gallons per hour (750
gallons per day) of ultra pure, low ppm water and removes
95% of chlorine, hardness (calcium and magnesium),
excessive minerals (iron) and all other contaminants. It wastes
approximately 40% LESS drain water than other RO systems
on the market.
The Hydro-Logic Stealth reverses osmosis units produce
from 100 to 200 gallons per day of ultra pure, low ppm water.
They remove 98% of chlorine and contaminants and waste
approximately 25% less drain water than other RO systems
on the market.
With the Hydro-Logic Small Boy and Tall Boy De-
Chlorinators, you’ll no longer need to wait 24 plus hours for
chlorine to dissipate. The Small Boy will remove up to 99%
of chlorine and 90% of sediment, rust, silt, etc. at one gallon
per minute and will easily produce 60 gallons per hour of clear
water fi ltered down to 5 microns. It weighs 6.4 lbs. has a fi lter
capacity of 3,000 gallons and comes with everything you
need to get started.
The choice is clear, choose the best for your customers and
place your order with Greenstar Plant Products for Hydro-
Logic Purifi cation Systems today! – A.O.
TIPS & TRICKS TIPS & TRICKS
E Z GREENHOUSEPhotos: Fred Leduc
By Fred Leduc
TIPS & TRICKS TIPS & TRICKS
E Z GREENHOUSEPhotos: Fred Leduc
By Fred Leduc
Illustration: Chris Shepperd
I think most gardeners would like to have a greenhouse but believe it would be too
expensive. I am going to show you how to build a 12' x 14' greenhouse in your backyard for less than $300! It will be very easy for two people to build it in an afternoon (5 or 6 hours).
List of MaterialsPVC:
PVC ¾ inch tube 10’ (18)PVC Ts (2)
PVC Crosses (6)PVC Cleaner (1 can)PVC Cement (1 can)
TREATED WOOD:2”X6”X14’ (3)2”X6”X12’ (2)2”X6”X8’ (4)2”X4”X8’ (4)4”X4”X8’ (2)1”X6”X8’ (4)
UNTREATED WOOD:1”X2”X8’ (7)
PLASTIC GREENHOUSE FILM:
6-mil 24’X20’ (1)6-mil 12’X10’ (2)
MISCELLANEOUS:Electric Metallic Tubing (EMT) clamps (32)Screws Staples
How To Start: The First StepsStart by selecting a site that is fl at and level for the greenhouse. Depending on what you want to grow in your greenhouse, it can be located in a shady spot, but I
recommend that it be in full sun and that you use a shade cloth when needed. You will also have to consider the availability of water and electricity.
After you have chosen the place for the greenhouse, lay out the 12’ and 14’ pieces for the base and screw them together with 3 ½" deck screws. When the base is in place, mark the ground with powered chalk or
scratch a line with a knife. Then move the base to the side and dig a trench (2" deep and 4" wide) for the base to sit in. Dig a hole in each corner (28" deep) for
the anchors.
Move the base into the trench and if it is not level, level it out by raising the lower side and packing dirt under it. Then attach the anchors to the insides of each corner. Now fi ll in the anchor holes and pack the dirt tightly by tapping it with a heavy piece of wood or something heavy. Fill in the trench on the inside of the base and under the boards only – do not fi ll in the outside of the base trench until the plastic covering is on. Attach the EMT clamps loosely to the sides of the base boards with 1¼" deck screws.
Cut seven pieces of PVC tubing at 22 ½ inches. Lay out the 22 ½" pieces with tees and crosses on top of the last piece of 2" x 6" x 14'. Clean all the pieces and arrange them so they are straight and fl at on the board. Glue the pieces together, taking your time to get this right. It is very important that all the crosses are straight and fl at! If one of the crosses is out of alignment, it will cause stress and the greenhouse will fail before the estimated twelve years it should last.
For the next part, you should be working about ten or twelve feet from the base of the greenhouse. Place the PVC backbone on the ground. Arrange the ribs next to the tees and crosses. Clean and glue the ribs in place. It’s very important to read and follow the directions for the PVC
56THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
TIPS & TRICKS
Illustration: Chris Shepperd
I think most gardeners would like to have a greenhouse but believe it would be too
expensive. I am going to show you how to build a 12' x 14' greenhouse in your backyard for less than $300! It will be very easy for two people to build it in an afternoon (5 or 6 hours).
List of MaterialsPVC:
PVC ¾ inch tube 10’ (18)PVC Ts (2)
PVC Crosses (6)PVC Cleaner (1 can)PVC Cement (1 can)
TREATED WOOD:2”X6”X14’ (3)2”X6”X12’ (2)2”X6”X8’ (4)2”X4”X8’ (4)4”X4”X8’ (2)1”X6”X8’ (4)
UNTREATED WOOD:1”X2”X8’ (7)
PLASTIC GREENHOUSE FILM:
6-mil 24’X20’ (1)6-mil 12’X10’ (2)
MISCELLANEOUS:Electric Metallic Tubing (EMT) clamps (32)Screws Staples
How To Start: The First StepsStart by selecting a site that is fl at and level for the greenhouse. Depending on what you want to grow in your greenhouse, it can be located in a shady spot, but I
recommend that it be in full sun and that you use a shade cloth when needed. You will also have to consider the availability of water and electricity.
After you have chosen the place for the greenhouse, lay out the 12’ and 14’ pieces for the base and screw them together with 3 ½" deck screws. When the base is in place, mark the ground with powered chalk or
scratch a line with a knife. Then move the base to the side and dig a trench (2" deep and 4" wide) for the base to sit in. Dig a hole in each corner (28" deep) for
the anchors.
Move the base into the trench and if it is not level, level it out by raising the lower side and packing dirt under it. Then attach the anchors to the insides of each corner. Now fi ll in the anchor holes and pack the dirt tightly by tapping it with a heavy piece of wood or something heavy. Fill in the trench on the inside of the base and under the boards only – do not fi ll in the outside of the base trench until the plastic covering is on. Attach the EMT clamps loosely to the sides of the base boards with 1¼" deck screws.
Cut seven pieces of PVC tubing at 22 ½ inches. Lay out the 22 ½" pieces with tees and crosses on top of the last piece of 2" x 6" x 14'. Clean all the pieces and arrange them so they are straight and fl at on the board. Glue the pieces together, taking your time to get this right. It is very important that all the crosses are straight and fl at! If one of the crosses is out of alignment, it will cause stress and the greenhouse will fail before the estimated twelve years it should last.
For the next part, you should be working about ten or twelve feet from the base of the greenhouse. Place the PVC backbone on the ground. Arrange the ribs next to the tees and crosses. Clean and glue the ribs in place. It’s very important to read and follow the directions for the PVC
56THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
TIPS & TRICKS
cleaner and glue. A properly made PVC joint is permanent!
Elevating The StructureWhen the PVC frame has dried, move it into place over the base. The more people you have to help at this point, the easier it will be. Starting at one end, bend the PVC ribs into bows and place them into the EMT clamps. Work your way along until you have gotten all of the ribs into position, then tighten down the EMT clamps. (A little side note: I was in a hurry and I didn’t fi nd metal clamps so I used plastic, but I recommend using metal clamps).
Now it’s time to cut some wood to make the end structure. Both ends are exactly the same, except for the addition of the door at the front. Start by cutting two pieces of 4" x 6" at 72" and then one piece of 2" x 4" at 25 ¾". Attach the 2" x 4" to the 4" x 6" and then attach the frame to the base. Now you’ll have to add a support on each side of the frame. Have your helper hold the 2" x 4" in position and then mark. This is the easiest way to fi nd the exact angles of how it fi ts. After you have marked it, cut it and checked the fi t, you can then install it. There, you have one end. The other end is exactly the same. After you have both ends constructed, take the last piece of 14' lumber you have and the 2" x 6", and mount it on the top of the frame right underneath the backbone of your greenhouse. This will add signifi cant support.
Next, the scrap lumber left over from the 2" x 6" that you cut for the end frames can be cut to fi t as braces for each corner. Again, the easiest thing to do is to have your helper hold the lumber into position, mark it, cut it, check the fi t and install it.
Finishing TouchesThe door is constructed of 1" x 4" treated lumber. Cut two pieces at 72" and two more pieces at 32 ½". Lay the long pieces on the ground and attach the short pieces to the top and the bottom, making certain that the corners are fl ush and square. These dimensions may change if your door is not exactly the same as I’ve described. Check the opening and make the adjustments that you may need. Back to the construction. Attach the short pieces to the long pieces, and then take a piece of 6-mil plastic and cover the door. Staple
it only to the long pieces and leave a tab that will extend over the short pieces. Do not staple it to the short pieces yet. Now, cut two more pieces of lumber at 65". Screw them on top of the 72" long pieces. That should give you a fl ush frame. Turn the door over and pull the tab of plastic through to the other side and staple it to the top and the bottom. Cut two more pieces at 28" and install them at the top and bottom. There you have it: your door. It should look like a piece of plastic sandwiched between two pieces of wood. Put it in position, add the hinges and hardware and the last bit of construction you will have to do is to create the door jamb on the inside. You can do this with the left over 1" x 4" pieces. Just screw them in place so the door will stop when it meets it. It is best to go along the top, the side and the bottom. It is not necessary on the hinge-side of the door. It will be covered with plastic on the outside. If you need more ventilation, a second door can be added at the other end.
Moving along to the fi nal steps: covering the greenhouse with plastic. Start by covering the ends. Use a piece of 6-mil 12' x 10' plastic. Staple it to the ends. Do not cut off the excess, just let it fold over the PVC frame. Now it is time to attach the large piece of plastic (24' x 20'). Lay the plastic out over the frame so that the 20-foot long edge runs from front to back on your greenhouse. There will be approximately a three foot overhang at the front and the back. On the sides, there should be a two-foot overhang. When you have the plastic positioned properly, attach one side with staples, then go to the other side, pull it snug, work out the wrinkles and fasten it with staples. Go to the ends and work the plastic and staple it to the wooden frame anywhere that it will reach. Go around the perimeter and attach the 1" x 2" strapping, which is common lumber, with 1¼" deck screws to hold the plastic down. Treated lumber is not required for this. It will last the three or four years that the plastic covering will last and it should be changed at the same time.
The only thing left to do is to cover the excess plastic with dirt and tap it down to hold it in place, then fi ll in the trench. And there you have it, your greenhouse is complete.
Send your questions to: [email protected].
Industry News — Gallery: Horti Fair (see pages 32-33)The annual Dutch horticulture show Horti Fair was held in Amsterdam October 9-12, 2007. The novelties featured in the
gallery at page 32 and 33 are the following (clockwise): The Agro LED Box®, a growing chamber with LED
lighting, the British brand EKO-Fibre substrate slabs and mineral wool cube supports, Ofer Agrotech’s
greenhouse insecticide diffuser, pH testing kits from Merck®, Beamfl icker’s electric ballast and its refl ector
for 400 and 600 W bulbs, Ogro’s certifi ed organic substrates, the new gel substrate (still experimental, no
brand), the ultrasound water or sanitation system from www.stopalgae.nl (Luykx Ultrasound), and, fi nally,
in the center, the fl oral composition of the Amsterdam Flowershop Association’s kiosk.
– T.I.G.
Photo: Jan Sennema
TIPS & TRICKS
cleaner and glue. A properly made PVC joint is permanent!
Elevating The StructureWhen the PVC frame has dried, move it into place over the base. The more people you have to help at this point, the easier it will be. Starting at one end, bend the PVC ribs into bows and place them into the EMT clamps. Work your way along until you have gotten all of the ribs into position, then tighten down the EMT clamps. (A little side note: I was in a hurry and I didn’t fi nd metal clamps so I used plastic, but I recommend using metal clamps).
Now it’s time to cut some wood to make the end structure. Both ends are exactly the same, except for the addition of the door at the front. Start by cutting two pieces of 4" x 6" at 72" and then one piece of 2" x 4" at 25 ¾". Attach the 2" x 4" to the 4" x 6" and then attach the frame to the base. Now you’ll have to add a support on each side of the frame. Have your helper hold the 2" x 4" in position and then mark. This is the easiest way to fi nd the exact angles of how it fi ts. After you have marked it, cut it and checked the fi t, you can then install it. There, you have one end. The other end is exactly the same. After you have both ends constructed, take the last piece of 14' lumber you have and the 2" x 6", and mount it on the top of the frame right underneath the backbone of your greenhouse. This will add signifi cant support.
Next, the scrap lumber left over from the 2" x 6" that you cut for the end frames can be cut to fi t as braces for each corner. Again, the easiest thing to do is to have your helper hold the lumber into position, mark it, cut it, check the fi t and install it.
Finishing TouchesThe door is constructed of 1" x 4" treated lumber. Cut two pieces at 72" and two more pieces at 32 ½". Lay the long pieces on the ground and attach the short pieces to the top and the bottom, making certain that the corners are fl ush and square. These dimensions may change if your door is not exactly the same as I’ve described. Check the opening and make the adjustments that you may need. Back to the construction. Attach the short pieces to the long pieces, and then take a piece of 6-mil plastic and cover the door. Staple
it only to the long pieces and leave a tab that will extend over the short pieces. Do not staple it to the short pieces yet. Now, cut two more pieces of lumber at 65". Screw them on top of the 72" long pieces. That should give you a fl ush frame. Turn the door over and pull the tab of plastic through to the other side and staple it to the top and the bottom. Cut two more pieces at 28" and install them at the top and bottom. There you have it: your door. It should look like a piece of plastic sandwiched between two pieces of wood. Put it in position, add the hinges and hardware and the last bit of construction you will have to do is to create the door jamb on the inside. You can do this with the left over 1" x 4" pieces. Just screw them in place so the door will stop when it meets it. It is best to go along the top, the side and the bottom. It is not necessary on the hinge-side of the door. It will be covered with plastic on the outside. If you need more ventilation, a second door can be added at the other end.
Moving along to the fi nal steps: covering the greenhouse with plastic. Start by covering the ends. Use a piece of 6-mil 12' x 10' plastic. Staple it to the ends. Do not cut off the excess, just let it fold over the PVC frame. Now it is time to attach the large piece of plastic (24' x 20'). Lay the plastic out over the frame so that the 20-foot long edge runs from front to back on your greenhouse. There will be approximately a three foot overhang at the front and the back. On the sides, there should be a two-foot overhang. When you have the plastic positioned properly, attach one side with staples, then go to the other side, pull it snug, work out the wrinkles and fasten it with staples. Go to the ends and work the plastic and staple it to the wooden frame anywhere that it will reach. Go around the perimeter and attach the 1" x 2" strapping, which is common lumber, with 1¼" deck screws to hold the plastic down. Treated lumber is not required for this. It will last the three or four years that the plastic covering will last and it should be changed at the same time.
The only thing left to do is to cover the excess plastic with dirt and tap it down to hold it in place, then fi ll in the trench. And there you have it, your greenhouse is complete.
Send your questions to: [email protected].
Industry News — Gallery: Horti Fair (see pages 32-33)The annual Dutch horticulture show Horti Fair was held in Amsterdam October 9-12, 2007. The novelties featured in the
gallery at page 32 and 33 are the following (clockwise): The Agro LED Box®, a growing chamber with LED
lighting, the British brand EKO-Fibre substrate slabs and mineral wool cube supports, Ofer Agrotech’s
greenhouse insecticide diffuser, pH testing kits from Merck®, Beamfl icker’s electric ballast and its refl ector
for 400 and 600 W bulbs, Ogro’s certifi ed organic substrates, the new gel substrate (still experimental, no
brand), the ultrasound water or sanitation system from www.stopalgae.nl (Luykx Ultrasound), and, fi nally,
in the center, the fl oral composition of the Amsterdam Flowershop Association’s kiosk.
– T.I.G.
Photo: Jan Sennema
TIPS & TRICKS
Phot
o: P
hila
delp
hia
Flow
er S
how
AROUND THE WORLDfl owers shows” (still according to the NYT), the Philadelphia Flower Show – which has been held every spring since 1829 – has seen its number of visitors increase by 25% in 10 years (from 1996 to 2005). We might as well forget the image of the average American as sitting in front of his plasma screen TV, remote in one hand, a bag of chips in the other. These fairs have a secret: they
entertain! The fl ower show visitors, like all of us, want to get winter behind them. In Philadelphia, over 30% of all visitors come from all over the United States. They can learn the art of ikebana, compose wedding bouquets or exhibit their own amateur garden or their own hybrids in the “Horticourt” section where 3000 nonprofessional gardeners display their inventiveness. In 2005, the organizers even re-created the alleys of that used to lead to the White House, bordered by fl owering cherry trees and red roses. When I say “re-created”, I mean “preserved” and “transported”, because the American Horticultural Society has been caring for the original rose and cherry trees since 1930, when they were unearthed in Washington!
In the old days, gardening enthusiasts discovered new plants and trendy fl owers and shrubs in the great private domains that would sometimes open their doors in the spring, much to the pleasure of the less fortunate visitors. These however tend to disappear or to become “too” private for the common of mortals. In Philadelphia however, in 2005, a vast garden was unveiled, containing only willows – weeping willows, imported willows, and golden willows – and in which the garden furniture, the gazebos, the gate, and all decorations are, of course, made of willow wood! Sam Lemheney, artistic director of the Philadelphia fair, said: “Most visitors pretend that they come to get ideas they will bring back home, but what they want fi rst and foremost is to be awed!” Now, no city would want to be on the list of cities without a Flower Show. Whether it’s Des Moines, Cincinnati, Richmond (Virginia), San Francisco, or even the smallest town in New Jersey, and they all want “their” fair. In former times, people would go to the agricultural fair to fi nd a husband or wife as well as to buy a cow and two ewes. Gardening enthusiasts are just as serious about fl ower shows, and their goal is just as precise: to be awed and fall in love with… horticultural novelties!
– B.B.
60THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photos: Hatfi eld H
ouse EstateAROUND THE WORLD
Marquise Lady Salisbury, née Mollie Wyndham-Quin 85 years ago in Ireland, is famous for having spent the last 36 years redefi ning and embellishing the gardens of her residence, Hatfi eld House, 32 km north of London. The redbrick manor, built in the purest style of James I, king of England, was one of the childhood
homes of Queen Elizabeth I. Along with its 2,833 hectares of land, it then became the property of the Cecil family in 1611. It was the location of the Oscar-winning movie “Shakespeare in Love” in 1998. Lady Salisbury’s father-in-law having died in 1972, the Marquise followed her husband, a descendent of the Cecils who inherited Hatfi eld House, and moved in that year. Lady Salisbury’s passion for gardens goes back to her childhood. In the property where she grew up in Ireland, she took care of a tiny plot of land which she had transformed into a symphony of colours and textures using succulents and rock-garden plants. The gardening virus was already in place and she was fated to govern an entire domain.
The 17 hectares of English garden at Hatfi eld’s had been rather neglected since the middle of the 19th century. Lord Salisbury’s grand-parents did not care much for it. They preferred horrible red rock alleyways and paths surrounded by asphalt were a bonus because they required only minimal maintenance. When Lady Salisbury arrived
in 1972, the trees and shrub hedges had not been trimmed at least since the end of the Second World War. Most of the plant beds had more or less gone back to the wild. The fi rst thing the Marquise undertook was research on the plants, the bush varieties and the seeds from the domain’s origins, at the beginning of the 17th century. Lucky for her and for the garden’s visitors, the manor’s archives still held lists of seeds
bought by the original garden designer, John Tradescant. There was no information, however, on the organization and distribution of the varieties throughout the park. It had to be imagined. Or one could decide to study as precisely as possible the garden architecture style of the Renaissance.
That was the approach chosen without hesitation by Lady Salisbury. She travelled to Italy, met with garden art historians, went through libraries and archives from manors of the same era, until she was able to get a clear idea of the original appearance of Hatfi eld House’s garden. She nevertheless admits that reproducing the garden such as it was designed was an almost impossible task. “It was impossible to recreate what had been here, because I don’t have the same mind or feelings as the people who lived here. The most important thing to do was to get into the manner and character of those early gardens. The house was isolated. Everything looked wrong. A garden must relate to its house,” she told the New York Times in March 2005. This historical, even academic approach did not meet with unanimous support in the early 1970s, when the trend was rather to destroy historical notions create gardens that bore an ephemeral modernity. What was not expected is that the Marquise became an innovator of the organic approach to gardening. While 1970s gardeners still amended soils using strong chemical products, Lady Salisbury patiently stored organic refuse in a corner of the park and got her very own environmentally-friendly homemade compost. Before everybody else and before it was fashionable, she also practiced integrated pest management against insects by releasing their natural predators in the bushes and park corners.
She is now retiring. The Marquise is back in London. Her step-daughter, who inherited the domain in 2003, is already transforming the landscaping imagined by Lady Salisbury at Hatfi eld. Different generations…
– B.B.
From One Horticultural Show to the NextSince the beginning of this new century, gardening exhibits and horticultural fairs have taken on like never before. In 2005, the New York Times was even saying that “Flower Shows Grow like Weeds!” For example, the “Cadillac of
The Marquise in Her English Garden
Phot
o: P
hila
delp
hia
Flow
er S
how
AROUND THE WORLDfl owers shows” (still according to the NYT), the Philadelphia Flower Show – which has been held every spring since 1829 – has seen its number of visitors increase by 25% in 10 years (from 1996 to 2005). We might as well forget the image of the average American as sitting in front of his plasma screen TV, remote in one hand, a bag of chips in the other. These fairs have a secret: they
entertain! The fl ower show visitors, like all of us, want to get winter behind them. In Philadelphia, over 30% of all visitors come from all over the United States. They can learn the art of ikebana, compose wedding bouquets or exhibit their own amateur garden or their own hybrids in the “Horticourt” section where 3000 nonprofessional gardeners display their inventiveness. In 2005, the organizers even re-created the alleys of that used to lead to the White House, bordered by fl owering cherry trees and red roses. When I say “re-created”, I mean “preserved” and “transported”, because the American Horticultural Society has been caring for the original rose and cherry trees since 1930, when they were unearthed in Washington!
In the old days, gardening enthusiasts discovered new plants and trendy fl owers and shrubs in the great private domains that would sometimes open their doors in the spring, much to the pleasure of the less fortunate visitors. These however tend to disappear or to become “too” private for the common of mortals. In Philadelphia however, in 2005, a vast garden was unveiled, containing only willows – weeping willows, imported willows, and golden willows – and in which the garden furniture, the gazebos, the gate, and all decorations are, of course, made of willow wood! Sam Lemheney, artistic director of the Philadelphia fair, said: “Most visitors pretend that they come to get ideas they will bring back home, but what they want fi rst and foremost is to be awed!” Now, no city would want to be on the list of cities without a Flower Show. Whether it’s Des Moines, Cincinnati, Richmond (Virginia), San Francisco, or even the smallest town in New Jersey, and they all want “their” fair. In former times, people would go to the agricultural fair to fi nd a husband or wife as well as to buy a cow and two ewes. Gardening enthusiasts are just as serious about fl ower shows, and their goal is just as precise: to be awed and fall in love with… horticultural novelties!
– B.B.
60THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photos: Hatfi eld H
ouse Estate
AROUND THE WORLD
Marquise Lady Salisbury, née Mollie Wyndham-Quin 85 years ago in Ireland, is famous for having spent the last 36 years redefi ning and embellishing the gardens of her residence, Hatfi eld House, 32 km north of London. The redbrick manor, built in the purest style of James I, king of England, was one of the childhood
homes of Queen Elizabeth I. Along with its 2,833 hectares of land, it then became the property of the Cecil family in 1611. It was the location of the Oscar-winning movie “Shakespeare in Love” in 1998. Lady Salisbury’s father-in-law having died in 1972, the Marquise followed her husband, a descendent of the Cecils who inherited Hatfi eld House, and moved in that year. Lady Salisbury’s passion for gardens goes back to her childhood. In the property where she grew up in Ireland, she took care of a tiny plot of land which she had transformed into a symphony of colours and textures using succulents and rock-garden plants. The gardening virus was already in place and she was fated to govern an entire domain.
The 17 hectares of English garden at Hatfi eld’s had been rather neglected since the middle of the 19th century. Lord Salisbury’s grand-parents did not care much for it. They preferred horrible red rock alleyways and paths surrounded by asphalt were a bonus because they required only minimal maintenance. When Lady Salisbury arrived
in 1972, the trees and shrub hedges had not been trimmed at least since the end of the Second World War. Most of the plant beds had more or less gone back to the wild. The fi rst thing the Marquise undertook was research on the plants, the bush varieties and the seeds from the domain’s origins, at the beginning of the 17th century. Lucky for her and for the garden’s visitors, the manor’s archives still held lists of seeds
bought by the original garden designer, John Tradescant. There was no information, however, on the organization and distribution of the varieties throughout the park. It had to be imagined. Or one could decide to study as precisely as possible the garden architecture style of the Renaissance.
That was the approach chosen without hesitation by Lady Salisbury. She travelled to Italy, met with garden art historians, went through libraries and archives from manors of the same era, until she was able to get a clear idea of the original appearance of Hatfi eld House’s garden. She nevertheless admits that reproducing the garden such as it was designed was an almost impossible task. “It was impossible to recreate what had been here, because I don’t have the same mind or feelings as the people who lived here. The most important thing to do was to get into the manner and character of those early gardens. The house was isolated. Everything looked wrong. A garden must relate to its house,” she told the New York Times in March 2005. This historical, even academic approach did not meet with unanimous support in the early 1970s, when the trend was rather to destroy historical notions create gardens that bore an ephemeral modernity. What was not expected is that the Marquise became an innovator of the organic approach to gardening. While 1970s gardeners still amended soils using strong chemical products, Lady Salisbury patiently stored organic refuse in a corner of the park and got her very own environmentally-friendly homemade compost. Before everybody else and before it was fashionable, she also practiced integrated pest management against insects by releasing their natural predators in the bushes and park corners.
She is now retiring. The Marquise is back in London. Her step-daughter, who inherited the domain in 2003, is already transforming the landscaping imagined by Lady Salisbury at Hatfi eld. Different generations…
– B.B.
From One Horticultural Show to the NextSince the beginning of this new century, gardening exhibits and horticultural fairs have taken on like never before. In 2005, the New York Times was even saying that “Flower Shows Grow like Weeds!” For example, the “Cadillac of
The Marquise in Her English Garden
Photos: Niebaum
Estate
Francis Ford Coppola, Godfather of the California Vine
The public knows that Francis Ford
Coppola, winner of fi ve Oscars, has
been making movies for 45 years. His
most recent, an adaptation of Mircea
Eliade’s Youth Without Youth, was
released last winter. What the public
perhaps does not know, is that over
the past 33 years, the director has also
become a renowned winemaker. With
the proceeds of the Godfather movie
and with his wife Eleanor, in 1975, Coppola purchased a small
part of the wine-producing Niebaum domain in the touristic
and industrial region of Napa Valley, two hours north of San
Francisco. Napa Valley is also the best wine producing region
in California. If at fi rst, Francis Coppola and his wife wanted
to “play farmers” on the small property, they soon found
themselves a passion for vine cultivation and wine production.
What fi rst started as a project to purchase a small farm then
took on epic dimensions just like a Hollywood production like
Apocalypse Now. Except that here, in the calm and serenity of
the North Californian countryside, we are far from cinematographic
drama. The Coppola domain is comprised of 600 ha, a vineyard,
of course, and a house that can be qualifi ed as... Hollywood-
worthy. The vineyard has been renamed “Niebaum-Coppola”
and has quickly become a renowned wine production house
that knows an ever-growing success. Coppola even restored
the old Italian style stone castle. He has also had the vineyard
replanted with the original vine stock, the ones introduced in the
19th century by Captain Gustave Niebaum, who had become
rich in the Alaskan for trade. At the time, Niebaum had already
had success with his wine and had even won a medal in France in
1889, an exceptional event for a New World wine in an industry
that was up until then essentially European.
Gustave Niebaum died in 1908 and the 1920s prohibition in
the United States forced his heirs to convert to grape juice
production. Legend has it, however,
that the grape juice trucked over from
California to the East Coast had time
to ferment during the trip, offering the
East Coast clients an illegal beverage
bearing a legal label! Between 1940
and 1960, however, the Niebaum
heirs revamped the wine production
house, winning numerous prizes with,
for example, their 1941 Cabernet-
Sauvignon, declared one of the “wines of the century” according
to the Wine Spectator. Not being one to do things halfway,
Francis Ford Coppola wanted to carry on this tradition of quality
and success. In 1995, with the Niebaum-Coppola domain
already known as an important player among California wines,
Coppola bought the adjacent Inglenook domain (renamed
“Rubicon” when the Inglenook heirs opposed the use of their
name) for the small sum of $9.2 million. The association of both
domains allowed Coppola, in 2003, to cultivate 72 ha of vine:
37 for Cabernet-Sauvignon, 15 for Merlot, 10 for Zinfandel and
10 that are reserved for experimentation.
In 2003, Francis Ford Coppola told Australian magazine Foodbiz:
“There’s so much in a glass of wine that tells of its heritage, of
the land that it comes from, of the weather that year, and of the
philosophy of the family making it.” This might be why he hired
the granddaughter of Gustave Niebaum’s great great-nephew,
John Daniel Jr., who managed the estate between 1940 and
1960, to be his personal assistant! Hence the Italian family
tradition continues. As it does in his movies, where he uses
numerous family members as technicians, composers, actors...
Francis Coppola once hired his father, composer Carmine
Coppola (1910-1991) to take care of the vines, and his mother,
actress Italia Coppola (1912-2004) to create Italian recipes
under the Coppola label. The face of Francis’s grandfather,
August Coppola, who left Naples for the United States as the
pianist of opera singer Enrico Caruso, appears on the label of
Coppola’s Zinfandel. Although his family is involved, Francis
Coppola is aware that the inheritance from the Niebaums and
the Inglenooks is most precious. “If I came here and wanted to
make one of the greatest wines in the world, it would only be
because Inglenook had done it here before,” he told Food &
Wine in 2006.
In the same article (November 2006), he also recognized his
chance of having invested in vineyards that had a prestigious
past, on which he only had to put his name (and some
personal work!). “We had great success from the start, almost
by accident. [...] If I go next week, which I may do, and buy
Château Margaux, I’m not going to change it to Château
Coppola Margaux. I’d be an idiot. If I was able to buy a great
thing like that I’d be proud to own it. [...] To be great, a wine has
to have its own personality, individuality. It’s like greatness in a
person. There are qualities that you fi nd in a person that make
them unique. Now, obviously, you could have a terrible wine
that would be unique, but I think a great wine goes beyond
pleasure and gets into levels of complexity. It’s like a fi lm that
has so many levels of meaning you can go back and see it again
and again. It’s not a simple story.” Visit the vineyard’s website
at: www.niebaum-coppola.com.
– B.B.Sources: FoodBiz, volume 1, issue 3 (December 2003), Food & Wine (November 2006), Internet Movie Database.
PLANT’ IT EARTH2279 Market StreetSan Francisco, CA 94114(415) 626-5082www.plantitearth.com
PLANT’ IT EARTH1 Dorman AveSan Francisco, CA 94124(415) 970-2465www.plantitearth.com
BERKELEY INDOOR GARDEN
844 University AveBerkeley, CA 94710
(510) 549-1234Fax: (510) 549-2582
GREENMILE HYDROPONIC GARDEN SUPPLY
1035 South Mt Vernon Ave, Suite GColton, CA 92324Tel: (909) 824-9376
Boulder / Denver
Year-round Year-round Garden Supply
1100 Carver Road, #20Modesto, CA 95350
Tel.: (209) 522-2727Toll free: 1-866-788-0765
132 Kennedy AvenueCampbell, CA. 95008
http://www.precisionhydroponics.com
Tel: (408) 866-8176Fax: (408) 866-8187
We specialize in CUSTOM DESIGN
116 West Orangeburg AvenueModesto, CA 95350
www.cocas-hydroponics.com
Monday to Friday: 10AM-6PM
Saturday & Sunday: 10AM-5PM
THE HYDROPONIC WORLD
United States
Emerald GardenAll you ever wanted and more(866)697-8509
10% off just mention this addRancho Cucamonga, Ca.
10051 North 2nd St.Laurel, Maryland
20723301-490-9236
866-MD-HYDROWWW.mdhydro.com
10051 North 2nd St.Laurel, Maryland
20723301-490-9236
866-MD-HYDROWWW.mdhydro.com
5561 South Orange Blossom Trail
Orlando FL. 32802 Toll Free(888) 833-4769
Our other two locations:
6100 Hanging moss Rd. Suite 500 Orlando FL. 32807
phone # 407-647-4769
1420 E. Altamonte Dr.Altamonte Springs FL. 32701
phone # 407-830-4769
www.sunshinehydro.com
AHL Garden Supply1051 San Mateo Blvd SE
Albuquerque, New Mexico 87108phone 800-753-4617 / fax 505-
255-7417Read what other customers are say-ing about their experience with AHL
and ahlgrows.comat http://ahlgrows.com/kudos.html
e-mail: [email protected]
62THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
AROUND THE WORLD
Photos: Niebaum
Estate
Francis Ford Coppola, Godfather of the California Vine
The public knows that Francis Ford
Coppola, winner of fi ve Oscars, has
been making movies for 45 years. His
most recent, an adaptation of Mircea
Eliade’s Youth Without Youth, was
released last winter. What the public
perhaps does not know, is that over
the past 33 years, the director has also
become a renowned winemaker. With
the proceeds of the Godfather movie
and with his wife Eleanor, in 1975, Coppola purchased a small
part of the wine-producing Niebaum domain in the touristic
and industrial region of Napa Valley, two hours north of San
Francisco. Napa Valley is also the best wine producing region
in California. If at fi rst, Francis Coppola and his wife wanted
to “play farmers” on the small property, they soon found
themselves a passion for vine cultivation and wine production.
What fi rst started as a project to purchase a small farm then
took on epic dimensions just like a Hollywood production like
Apocalypse Now. Except that here, in the calm and serenity of
the North Californian countryside, we are far from cinematographic
drama. The Coppola domain is comprised of 600 ha, a vineyard,
of course, and a house that can be qualifi ed as... Hollywood-
worthy. The vineyard has been renamed “Niebaum-Coppola”
and has quickly become a renowned wine production house
that knows an ever-growing success. Coppola even restored
the old Italian style stone castle. He has also had the vineyard
replanted with the original vine stock, the ones introduced in the
19th century by Captain Gustave Niebaum, who had become
rich in the Alaskan for trade. At the time, Niebaum had already
had success with his wine and had even won a medal in France in
1889, an exceptional event for a New World wine in an industry
that was up until then essentially European.
Gustave Niebaum died in 1908 and the 1920s prohibition in
the United States forced his heirs to convert to grape juice
production. Legend has it, however,
that the grape juice trucked over from
California to the East Coast had time
to ferment during the trip, offering the
East Coast clients an illegal beverage
bearing a legal label! Between 1940
and 1960, however, the Niebaum
heirs revamped the wine production
house, winning numerous prizes with,
for example, their 1941 Cabernet-
Sauvignon, declared one of the “wines of the century” according
to the Wine Spectator. Not being one to do things halfway,
Francis Ford Coppola wanted to carry on this tradition of quality
and success. In 1995, with the Niebaum-Coppola domain
already known as an important player among California wines,
Coppola bought the adjacent Inglenook domain (renamed
“Rubicon” when the Inglenook heirs opposed the use of their
name) for the small sum of $9.2 million. The association of both
domains allowed Coppola, in 2003, to cultivate 72 ha of vine:
37 for Cabernet-Sauvignon, 15 for Merlot, 10 for Zinfandel and
10 that are reserved for experimentation.
In 2003, Francis Ford Coppola told Australian magazine Foodbiz:
“There’s so much in a glass of wine that tells of its heritage, of
the land that it comes from, of the weather that year, and of the
philosophy of the family making it.” This might be why he hired
the granddaughter of Gustave Niebaum’s great great-nephew,
John Daniel Jr., who managed the estate between 1940 and
1960, to be his personal assistant! Hence the Italian family
tradition continues. As it does in his movies, where he uses
numerous family members as technicians, composers, actors...
Francis Coppola once hired his father, composer Carmine
Coppola (1910-1991) to take care of the vines, and his mother,
actress Italia Coppola (1912-2004) to create Italian recipes
under the Coppola label. The face of Francis’s grandfather,
August Coppola, who left Naples for the United States as the
pianist of opera singer Enrico Caruso, appears on the label of
Coppola’s Zinfandel. Although his family is involved, Francis
Coppola is aware that the inheritance from the Niebaums and
the Inglenooks is most precious. “If I came here and wanted to
make one of the greatest wines in the world, it would only be
because Inglenook had done it here before,” he told Food &
Wine in 2006.
In the same article (November 2006), he also recognized his
chance of having invested in vineyards that had a prestigious
past, on which he only had to put his name (and some
personal work!). “We had great success from the start, almost
by accident. [...] If I go next week, which I may do, and buy
Château Margaux, I’m not going to change it to Château
Coppola Margaux. I’d be an idiot. If I was able to buy a great
thing like that I’d be proud to own it. [...] To be great, a wine has
to have its own personality, individuality. It’s like greatness in a
person. There are qualities that you fi nd in a person that make
them unique. Now, obviously, you could have a terrible wine
that would be unique, but I think a great wine goes beyond
pleasure and gets into levels of complexity. It’s like a fi lm that
has so many levels of meaning you can go back and see it again
and again. It’s not a simple story.” Visit the vineyard’s website
at: www.niebaum-coppola.com.
– B.B.Sources: FoodBiz, volume 1, issue 3 (December 2003), Food & Wine (November 2006), Internet Movie Database.
PLANT’ IT EARTH2279 Market StreetSan Francisco, CA 94114(415) 626-5082www.plantitearth.com
PLANT’ IT EARTH1 Dorman AveSan Francisco, CA 94124(415) 970-2465www.plantitearth.com
BERKELEY INDOOR GARDEN
844 University AveBerkeley, CA 94710
(510) 549-1234Fax: (510) 549-2582
GREENMILE HYDROPONIC GARDEN SUPPLY
1035 South Mt Vernon Ave, Suite GColton, CA 92324Tel: (909) 824-9376
Boulder / Denver
Year-round Year-round Garden Supply
1100 Carver Road, #20Modesto, CA 95350
Tel.: (209) 522-2727Toll free: 1-866-788-0765
132 Kennedy AvenueCampbell, CA. 95008
http://www.precisionhydroponics.com
Tel: (408) 866-8176Fax: (408) 866-8187
We specialize in CUSTOM DESIGN
116 West Orangeburg AvenueModesto, CA 95350
www.cocas-hydroponics.com
Monday to Friday: 10AM-6PM
Saturday & Sunday: 10AM-5PM
THE HYDROPONIC WORLD
United States
Emerald GardenAll you ever wanted and more(866)697-8509
10% off just mention this addRancho Cucamonga, Ca.
10051 North 2nd St.Laurel, Maryland
20723301-490-9236
866-MD-HYDROWWW.mdhydro.com
10051 North 2nd St.Laurel, Maryland
20723301-490-9236
866-MD-HYDROWWW.mdhydro.com
5561 South Orange Blossom Trail
Orlando FL. 32802 Toll Free(888) 833-4769
Our other two locations:
6100 Hanging moss Rd. Suite 500 Orlando FL. 32807
phone # 407-647-4769
1420 E. Altamonte Dr.Altamonte Springs FL. 32701
phone # 407-830-4769
www.sunshinehydro.com
AHL Garden Supply1051 San Mateo Blvd SE
Albuquerque, New Mexico 87108phone 800-753-4617 / fax 505-
255-7417Read what other customers are say-ing about their experience with AHL
and ahlgrows.comat http://ahlgrows.com/kudos.html
e-mail: [email protected]
62THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
AROUND THE WORLD
THE GROW ROOM8 Bridge StreetNyack, NY 10960Toll Free:
(800) 449-9630Fax: (845) 348-8811www.thegrowroom.com
38 Front StBallston Spa, NY 12020
Toll free (800) 850-GROW(518) 885-2005
Fax (518) 885-2754www.saratogaorganics.com
THE HYDROPONIC WORLD
1555 Hurffville RdSewell, NJ 08080
Tel.: (856) 227-6300Toll free: 1-888-927-6300
Fax: (856) 227-2930www.tastyharvest.com
10051 North 2nd St.Laurel, Maryland
20723301-490-9236
866-MD-HYDROWWW.mdhydro.com
3839 6th AveTacoma, WA
(253) 761-7478www.indoorgarden.com
714 South CentralKent, WA
(253) 373-9060www.indoorgarden.com
23303 Highway 99, Suite AEdmonds, WA
(425) 673-2755www.indoorgarden.com
Canada 107 Falcon Drive (Hwy. 97 S) Williams Lake, BC V2G 5G7
Phone: (250) 398-2899 Fax: (250) 398-2896
Toll Free: 1-877-588-5855www.hallsorganics.com
AQUA GRO HYDROPONIC SUPPLIES101-2689 Kyle RdKelowna, BC V1Z 2M9(250) 769-7745Fax: (250) 769-7748
www.AnthonysGarden.com
"Our Business Is Growing"Your Indoor Outdoor
Gardening Specialists
93779 Troy Lane - Coos Bay, OR 97420(541) 266-8822 Fax: (541) 266-9754
394 Route 15/P.O. Box 235Underhill, Vt 05489
Tel.: Toll free 1 (800) 564-9376www.hooked-on-ponics.com
Green Thumb Gardening
Grow Monster Plants
[email protected] sales and advertising, contact:
THE HYDROPONIC WORLD
4-2133 Royal Windsor driveMississauga, Ontario
L5J 1K5(905) 403-GROW (4769)
1-877-263-6287www.secondnaturehydroponics.com
bma404 Maitland Drive #2Belleville, ON K8N 4Z5(613) 967-9888www.bmacanada.com
3132, Isleville St.Halifax, N.S.
902-454-6646B3K 3Y5
4 Ontario locations: Ottawa, Gloucester,
Mississauga, North York
1-800-489-2215www.hydroponix.com
Hydroponics, fertilizers, lightingHome of Optimum Hydroponix®
One issue: $4.76*
(includes taxes &
shipping & handling)
*Canada & U.S.A. only
ORDER PAST ISSUES or SUBSCRIBE TO 6 ISSUES FOR $28.56* (taxes and shipping & handling included)*for Canada and USA or $39.99 for international orders
o Payment: postal money order or certified bank cheque made to the order of: Green Publications.o §USA: PAYMENT IN US or CANADIAN DOLLARS THROUGH INTERNATIONAL POSTAL MONEY ORDERo *International fee with all taxes and shipping included.o •Québec residents, shipping and handling, GST and QST included.o &Other provinces, with GST only = $4.44 per issue (GST included) or 6 issues for $26.62 (GST included + add your provincial tax).
Return this form to: Green Publications, Subscriptions, Postal Box 52046,Laval, QC, H7P 5S1, CANADA
Name/First name: __________________________________ Age (optional): _____ Phone: __________________
Email: ____________________________________________ Address: __________ Apt.# ____________________ City: _______________________
Province: ____________________ Postal Code: _______________________ Country: _______________________
ATTENTION: EXPIRES AT THE END OF MAY 2008 (Source: T.I.G. — Vol.3 Issue 5)
VOLUME 3 ISSUE 6,
MAY 2008,WILL BE AVAILABLE
AT THE END OF APRIL 2008.
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PAST ISSUES (check off the issues above) - Price per issue: $4.76 or $6.95 for international orders
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I am a resident of the USA§ I reside elsewhere (6 issues for $39.99)*
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_______ issue(s) X $ 4.76 or $ 6.95 = $__________
ORDER FORM
N.B.: Issue 1-3 & Issue 2-6 are sold-out.
THE GROW ROOM8 Bridge StreetNyack, NY 10960Toll Free:
(800) 449-9630Fax: (845) 348-8811www.thegrowroom.com
38 Front StBallston Spa, NY 12020
Toll free (800) 850-GROW(518) 885-2005
Fax (518) 885-2754www.saratogaorganics.com
THE HYDROPONIC WORLD
1555 Hurffville RdSewell, NJ 08080
Tel.: (856) 227-6300Toll free: 1-888-927-6300
Fax: (856) 227-2930www.tastyharvest.com
10051 North 2nd St.Laurel, Maryland
20723301-490-9236
866-MD-HYDROWWW.mdhydro.com
3839 6th AveTacoma, WA
(253) 761-7478www.indoorgarden.com
714 South CentralKent, WA
(253) 373-9060www.indoorgarden.com
23303 Highway 99, Suite AEdmonds, WA
(425) 673-2755www.indoorgarden.com
Canada 107 Falcon Drive (Hwy. 97 S) Williams Lake, BC V2G 5G7
Phone: (250) 398-2899 Fax: (250) 398-2896
Toll Free: 1-877-588-5855www.hallsorganics.com
AQUA GRO HYDROPONIC SUPPLIES101-2689 Kyle RdKelowna, BC V1Z 2M9(250) 769-7745Fax: (250) 769-7748
www.AnthonysGarden.com
"Our Business Is Growing"Your Indoor Outdoor
Gardening Specialists
93779 Troy Lane - Coos Bay, OR 97420(541) 266-8822 Fax: (541) 266-9754
394 Route 15/P.O. Box 235Underhill, Vt 05489
Tel.: Toll free 1 (800) 564-9376www.hooked-on-ponics.com
Green Thumb Gardening
Grow Monster Plants
[email protected] sales and advertising, contact:
THE HYDROPONIC WORLD
4-2133 Royal Windsor driveMississauga, Ontario
L5J 1K5(905) 403-GROW (4769)
1-877-263-6287www.secondnaturehydroponics.com
bma404 Maitland Drive #2Belleville, ON K8N 4Z5(613) 967-9888www.bmacanada.com
3132, Isleville St.Halifax, N.S.
902-454-6646B3K 3Y5
4 Ontario locations: Ottawa, Gloucester,
Mississauga, North York
1-800-489-2215www.hydroponix.com
Hydroponics, fertilizers, lightingHome of Optimum Hydroponix®
One issue: $4.76*
(includes taxes &
shipping & handling)
*Canada & U.S.A. only
ORDER PAST ISSUES or SUBSCRIBE TO 6 ISSUES FOR $28.56* (taxes and shipping & handling included)*for Canada and USA or $39.99 for international orders
o Payment: postal money order or certified bank cheque made to the order of: Green Publications.o §USA: PAYMENT IN US or CANADIAN DOLLARS THROUGH INTERNATIONAL POSTAL MONEY ORDERo *International fee with all taxes and shipping included.o •Québec residents, shipping and handling, GST and QST included.o &Other provinces, with GST only = $4.44 per issue (GST included) or 6 issues for $26.62 (GST included + add your provincial tax).
Return this form to: Green Publications, Subscriptions, Postal Box 52046,Laval, QC, H7P 5S1, CANADA
Name/First name: __________________________________ Age (optional): _____ Phone: __________________
Email: ____________________________________________ Address: __________ Apt.# ____________________ City: _______________________
Province: ____________________ Postal Code: _______________________ Country: _______________________
ATTENTION: EXPIRES AT THE END OF MAY 2008 (Source: T.I.G. — Vol.3 Issue 5)
VOLUME 3 ISSUE 6,
MAY 2008,WILL BE AVAILABLE
AT THE END OF APRIL 2008.
❐ ISSUE 1 – 1
❐ ISSUE 1 – 2
❐ ISSUE 1 – 4
❐ ISSUE 1 – 5
❐ ISSUE 1 – 6
Place your ad hereContact Sales & advertising:
EuropeEurope
❐ ISSUE 2 – 1
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❐ ISSUE 3 – 1
❐ ISSUE 3 – 2
❐ ISSUE 3 – 3
❐ ISSUE 3 – 4
❐ ISSUE 3 – 5
PAST ISSUES (check off the issues above) - Price per issue: $4.76 or $6.95 for international orders
YES, I will subscribe! (6 issues for $28.56, shipping & handling and taxes included for Québec)•
I am a resident of Québec• I am a resident of Canada&
I am a resident of the USA§ I reside elsewhere (6 issues for $39.99)*
I would like my subscription to begin with issue:_______
_______ issue(s) X $ 4.76 or $ 6.95 = $__________
ORDER FORM
N.B.: Issue 1-3 & Issue 2-6 are sold-out.
66THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photo: © Jardín Press
Q & A
Q Q Hi!
What is the best way to store seeds?
Thank you,
Guillaume
AA Hi GuillaumeIt depends on the duration of storage. If the seeds are stored
in a dry and cool place, you will generally be able to store
them for at least two years. If you do not know how long the
seeds were stored before you bought them, know that they are
generally commercialized shortly after being harvested. The ideal
temperature at which to store seeds is 6°C (43°F). For long-term
storage, place the seeds in a hermetic metal or glass container and
put the container in the freezer. Do not freeze and thaw them more
than once, however. Happy gardening!
– W.J.
QQ Hello,
I have just bought seeds; how do I get the cuttings process
started?
Thank you.
T.C.
AA Hi T.C.!
Six weeks at least are required before cuttings can be taken. After
germination, you will need to wait four or fi ve weeks before the
plants are big enough to take cuttings from. Take the cuttings
near the base of the plant. Use a sharp knife and do not leave the
cutting exposed to air after the cut. Dip it immediately in rooting
powder and transplant it into a mineral wool cube or your chosen
substrate. Make sure to identify the cuttings’ origin. The rooting
period usually lasts two to three weeks. The cutting is ready to be
planted as soon as the root is visible on the side or at the bottom
of the cube.
Happy gardening!
– W.J.
QQ Dear T.I.G.,
I am writing to give you a piece of advice. The last time I
grew cuttings in mineral wool, I noticed that if there was
too much space between the stem and the substrate, the
cuttings died almost immediately. I tried placing elastic strips
around the rock wool cube to make it tighter against the
stem and this worked, but there was a better way of doing
things. Someone who works in a hydroponic store later told
me that I could fl ip the cubes upside down and use the side
opposite the pre-drilled hole. This way, I can make the holes
as I do wish them, neither too large nor too small. It works!
I usually use a piece of the cut stem to make the holes.
Sometimes, the stems are too short, so I use a toothpick and
the whole is perfect for the stem’s size. The upside down
cube also keeps the stems very straight.
Later,
The Ghost Who Walks
AA Dear Ghost,
Thanks for the tip. I always use a little mineral wool to fi ll the space
if the hole is too big for the cutting, but your way seems preferable.
Dear readers, if you have a tip to suggest or advice to share with
other gardeners, send us your comments and questions. Perhaps
you can even see your name printed in this magazine!
Happy gardening!
– W.J.
QQ Dear Sir or Madam,
I would like to introduce you to Mistral Bonsaï, a Catalan
company (from Spain) dedicated to bonsais and to the
publication of books and magazines on that topic. Its
editorial department, Jardín Press, wishes to distribute its
publications in Canada, and more particularly in Québec.
Since your magazine is available in all good newsstands
and bookstores, I would like to speak to you to discuss and
exchange on the best way to approach the publication of
specialized magazines in Québec. If you have questions
regarding Mistral Bonsaï’s publications, do not hesitate to
contact me. For any additional information, I invite you to
visit our website at www.mistralbonsai.com.
Warmest regards,
Geneviève Abbott, Director, COPCA Canada Inc.
AA Hello Geneviève,
To distribute our magazine in newsstands, we use the services
of companies that specialize in the distribution of material from
small publishers, which you can contact for your bonsai magazine.
In Québec, it is: Messageries de Presse Benjamin News inc., 101
Henry-Bessemer Street, Bois-des-Filion (Québec) J6Z 4S9 (tel.:
450 621-8167 or 514 364-1780) and, in the
rest of Canada: Coast to Coast Newsstand
Services Partnership, 5230 Finch Avenue East,
Suite 1, Toronto (Ontario) M1S 4Z9 (tel.: 1 416
754-3900 – www.ctcmagazines.com). I hope
this will help you. We are curious to see your
magazine in newsstands soon!
– B.B.
Seeds, Cutt i ngs , a nd Bonsa ïSeeds, Cutt i ngs , a nd Bonsa ïIt is the season to seed, and you have asked us questions about seeds and cuttings. Here are our answers. Keep on sending us your questions: [email protected].
66THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 5
Photo: © Jardín Press
Q & A
Q Q Hi!
What is the best way to store seeds?
Thank you,
Guillaume
AA Hi GuillaumeIt depends on the duration of storage. If the seeds are stored
in a dry and cool place, you will generally be able to store
them for at least two years. If you do not know how long the
seeds were stored before you bought them, know that they are
generally commercialized shortly after being harvested. The ideal
temperature at which to store seeds is 6°C (43°F). For long-term
storage, place the seeds in a hermetic metal or glass container and
put the container in the freezer. Do not freeze and thaw them more
than once, however. Happy gardening!
– W.J.
QQ Hello,
I have just bought seeds; how do I get the cuttings process
started?
Thank you.
T.C.
AA Hi T.C.!
Six weeks at least are required before cuttings can be taken. After
germination, you will need to wait four or fi ve weeks before the
plants are big enough to take cuttings from. Take the cuttings
near the base of the plant. Use a sharp knife and do not leave the
cutting exposed to air after the cut. Dip it immediately in rooting
powder and transplant it into a mineral wool cube or your chosen
substrate. Make sure to identify the cuttings’ origin. The rooting
period usually lasts two to three weeks. The cutting is ready to be
planted as soon as the root is visible on the side or at the bottom
of the cube.
Happy gardening!
– W.J.
QQ Dear T.I.G.,
I am writing to give you a piece of advice. The last time I
grew cuttings in mineral wool, I noticed that if there was
too much space between the stem and the substrate, the
cuttings died almost immediately. I tried placing elastic strips
around the rock wool cube to make it tighter against the
stem and this worked, but there was a better way of doing
things. Someone who works in a hydroponic store later told
me that I could fl ip the cubes upside down and use the side
opposite the pre-drilled hole. This way, I can make the holes
as I do wish them, neither too large nor too small. It works!
I usually use a piece of the cut stem to make the holes.
Sometimes, the stems are too short, so I use a toothpick and
the whole is perfect for the stem’s size. The upside down
cube also keeps the stems very straight.
Later,
The Ghost Who Walks
AA Dear Ghost,
Thanks for the tip. I always use a little mineral wool to fi ll the space
if the hole is too big for the cutting, but your way seems preferable.
Dear readers, if you have a tip to suggest or advice to share with
other gardeners, send us your comments and questions. Perhaps
you can even see your name printed in this magazine!
Happy gardening!
– W.J.
QQ Dear Sir or Madam,
I would like to introduce you to Mistral Bonsaï, a Catalan
company (from Spain) dedicated to bonsais and to the
publication of books and magazines on that topic. Its
editorial department, Jardín Press, wishes to distribute its
publications in Canada, and more particularly in Québec.
Since your magazine is available in all good newsstands
and bookstores, I would like to speak to you to discuss and
exchange on the best way to approach the publication of
specialized magazines in Québec. If you have questions
regarding Mistral Bonsaï’s publications, do not hesitate to
contact me. For any additional information, I invite you to
visit our website at www.mistralbonsai.com.
Warmest regards,
Geneviève Abbott, Director, COPCA Canada Inc.
AA Hello Geneviève,
To distribute our magazine in newsstands, we use the services
of companies that specialize in the distribution of material from
small publishers, which you can contact for your bonsai magazine.
In Québec, it is: Messageries de Presse Benjamin News inc., 101
Henry-Bessemer Street, Bois-des-Filion (Québec) J6Z 4S9 (tel.:
450 621-8167 or 514 364-1780) and, in the
rest of Canada: Coast to Coast Newsstand
Services Partnership, 5230 Finch Avenue East,
Suite 1, Toronto (Ontario) M1S 4Z9 (tel.: 1 416
754-3900 – www.ctcmagazines.com). I hope
this will help you. We are curious to see your
magazine in newsstands soon!
– B.B.
Seeds, Cutt i ngs , a nd Bonsa ïSeeds, Cutt i ngs , a nd Bonsa ïIt is the season to seed, and you have asked us questions about seeds and cuttings. Here are our answers. Keep on sending us your questions: [email protected].
