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The Mountains of Svaneti (Central Caucasus)

Author - Alexander F. Naumov

Publisher "Physical Culture and Sport", Moscow, 1985

This book is the honored coach of the RSFSR, USSR Master of Sports in

mountaineering AF Naumov is a continuation of a series of guides to the

Central Caucasus, published in 1967, 1972, 1976 and 1980 years. It

describes the route rock climbing to the top of the central part of the

Greater Caucasus mountain range and its southern spurs from the south of

Georgia. Highlights the translation approaches, lifting (traverse) and shutter

time of the route, the most difficult parts, etc.

Scanning and processing of text: Mike ( Tourist Club "Moscow outpost" ), 2003.

Automatic translation from Russian to English: Google Translate 2013

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Contents:

The Mountains of Svaneti (Central Caucasus) ................................. 1

INTRODUCTION .................................................................................. 4

LEGEND .............................................................................................. 7

Lechkhum RIDGE ............................................................................ 8

Chutharo, Sandro, Samertshle ............................................................. 8

PASSISMTA, SHARITAU, MACHHAPARA ............................................. 16

FYTNARGINSKOE PLATEAU ........................................................... 21

Mardzhanishvili Zeskho, White Stranger, Fytnargin ........................... 21

BLACK STRANGER ............................................................................. 35

TSURUNGAL, Zahn ............................................................................ 38

Ailama .............................................................................................. 46

NUAM-Quam, Inguri Vakhushta ........................................................ 58

DADIASHI ......................................................................................... 67

USHGULI ........................................................................................... 68

Bezengi-HALDSKAYA WALL .......................................................... 72

Shkhara ............................................................................................ 73

Dzhangitau, Shota Rustaveli .............................................................. 85

Katyn, Lakutsa, Tetnuld, Gestola, 4310, Lyalver ................................. 88

ORTOKARA, TIHTENGEN .................................................................... 91

CAM, BODORKU, LYCHAT, LASKHEDAR .............................................. 96

BASHILOV ......................................................................................... 98

Ridges and spurs SVETGARA ....................................................... 100

That................................................................................................. 100

Lekzyr .............................................................................................. 104

Svetgar, Mariani .............................................................................. 107

Asmashi ........................................................................................... 114

RIDGE GVALDA .......................................................................... 114

Gvalda, Banguryan, Komsomolets .................................................... 115

The Soviet Constitution, Karak LEKZYRSKAYA, places, MIIT, Sarykol .. 116

ULLUTAU, LATSGA ........................................................................... 120

DOLLAKORA..................................................................................... 125

Ushbinskoe plateau ................................................................... 129

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Chatyn ............................................................................................ 130

Small Ushba .................................................................................... 141

Ushba ............................................................................................. 142

Feast, masers .................................................................................. 164

Shhelda ........................................................................................... 168

Donguz-Orun, cover ........................................................................ 174

DOLRA, HEVAY ................................................................................ 177

Spurs of NAKRINSKY ................................................................... 183

Ledesht, Leyrag, Lakra, Tsalgmyl ...................................................... 183

Spurs of NENSKRYRSKY .............................................................. 190

Nenskra, Kuarmash, the Leninsky Komsomol, Gergildash, Gvergisher,

Shtavler .......................................................................................... 190

TRAVERSES GCMR southern spurs AND FROM TO PASSISMTA

SHTAVLERA (routes 5B / rp)........................................................ 195

REFERENCES ............................................................................... 198 In memory of Alexander Iordanovicha Gvalia and Mikhail Vissarionovich Hergiani dedicated

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INTRODUCTION

In this book the rock climbing routes to the top of the Main Caucasus Range (GKH) and its southern spurs from Georgia from Passismta Shtavlera in the east to the west, rising above the valleys and canyons of the Lower and Upper Svaneti, one of the most beautiful parts of Georgia.

Descriptions of routes drawn up for the summer, the most favorable conditions for the passage. Direction of travel on the roads and trails along the river, on glaciers and moraines given to the direction of travel. Orographic position of objects otherwise stated. Given the way the approaches climbs (climbing), traverses marked category of difficulty of individual sections of objectively dangerous places, major landmarks, places of planned bivouacs and the time required for the route and its individual segments. In addition to these bivouacs can be arranged on all platforms, balconies, wide ridges, saddles, most ice-snow areas of ridges and slopes. On small sites may sit bivouacs.

The path of descent from the peaks is not specified, for mainly carried out by the simplest route is planned and the group before exiting. Ways approaches on glaciers change over time.

The travel time plots and the entire route is indicated for srednepodgotovlennoy group 4 people to the route of the grade of difficulty. Leaving from the original bivouac recommended not later than 04.05 am. Exit at other times dictated feature of the route, otherwise stated. Modified Release date as duration of the route depending on the condition, the weather conditions and the state of preparation, it is specified there.

The composition according to the number of participants on routes 1 category of difficulty (c / d) is not. Limited to, the routes k/tr-4-12 2 people, 3 c / d - 4-8, 4-5A k/tr-4; 5B -6 k/tr- 4-6, on long routes and ridge traverses-6-8 people, for well-trained athletes the best lineup on most routes (excluding long-term) - deuce. Necessary deviations from the recommended above for some of the routes specified in the respective descriptions.

On routes 1-3 c / d marks the spot at which you want to pass a particularly thorough insurance that does not exclude the organization of its other hazardous. 4-6 on routes to / tr reliable insurance needs constantly, and therefore not specifically.

To pass the route a group of 4 people recommend the following extra equipment:

1B on routes to / mp: basic rope 2x30 m (30-40 m or 2-3 participants), repshnur consumable 1 m, 4 helmets, carabiners 6, 1-2 rock hook, 1 hammer (on rock and combined routes) , on possible approaches tent;

Route 2 c / d: basic rope 2x30 m, repshnur consumable 1 m, 4 helmets, carabiners 8, 2-4-rock hooks, 2 hammer (on rocky routes and combined), 2-3 ice Hook, 4 pairs of cats ( on the ice-snow and combined routes) on the approaches possible tent;

Route 3 c / d: basic rope 2x30 m, repshnur consumable 2-3 m, 4 helmets, carabiners 8-10, 5-8 pitons, 2 hammer (on rocky routes and combined), 2-6 ice pitons, 4 pair of cats (on ice-snow routes and combined) on the approaches tent;

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on routes 4A-5A c / d: basic rope 3x40 m, 5-40 m repshnur consumables (defined route of descent), 4kaski, 12-20 carbines, 15-30 pitons, 2 hammer, tent (in rock and combined routes) , plus 2-8 ice pitons, 4 pairs of cats (on ice-snow and combined routes);

on routes 5B / mp; rope core 3x40 m, 10-40 m repshnur consumables (defined route of descent), repshnur auxiliary 40-100 m, 4 helmets, carabiners 25-40, 30-40 and over rocky pitons and zakladushek, 2 hammer, and 8 three-step ladders (on rock and combined routes) plus 4 - 12 ice pitons, 4 pairs of cats (on ice-snow routes and combined), a tent and maybe a tent-sac.

Number of gear before going on the climb or traverse necessary to clarify depending on the route.

Categories difficulties mentioned routes correspond to the "Classification routing table of the mountain peaks of the USSR" as of 1983 Routes marked with an asterisk are not classified and are not listed in the table.

Routes 1A c / d, some not visited 1B-2 c / d and several trails 3-6 c / d, for which no information is given only in the list of pervoprohoditeley, giving, as a rule, in the figures of their passage ways.

Fig. 1. The scheme mountain Svaneti

In climbing camp "Ailama" and "Zeskho" from bases in Kutaisi (Karl Marx St, 4) can be reached by bus (fly by plane) to Chnhareshi. From this village at 25 km passing cars.

The town of Mestia can be reached from Zugdidi railway station by bus or by plane and by climbing camp "Ailama" to the village of Qala - by passing cars (25 km), then by bus.

The path to the base camp, "Morena Khaldeh." From the village of Qala on the way to the village of Khalde (5 km), continue along the path of the right bank of the river to the right bank of Khalde moraine of the glacier of the same name, in the middle of the moraine area "Khaldeh Morena" (5 km).

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The path to the village Adishi. From the town of Mestia by bus to the village Bogreshi (25 km), then by passing vehicles to the village Adishi (10 km).

The path to the camp "Tviberi." From the town of Mestia by bus to the village Jabeshi (20 km), on the road to the camp site "Tviberi" (8 km).

The path to the villages Mather, ghouls and tourist center "Shikhra." From the town of Mestia by bus to the village Becho (13 km), then by passing vehicles to the village Mazeri (6 km) from Mazeri on the road to the village of Gul (5 km), and to the tourist center of Mazeri "Shikhra" (6 km).

The path to the village Nakra (Nucky). From the city of Zugdidi and Mestia by bus to the village Shdiguri, then by passing vehicles.

The author expresses his sincere gratitude for the assistance in the collection and refinement of materials: Yu Yu Artsyshevsky, RI Giutashvili, DA Gozalishvili, VF Grakovich, VI Grishchenko, DS Gugava, K. K. Zaitsev, GI Kartvelishvili, KB Kletsko, Yu E. Kozlov, V. Maslennikov, Charles M. Margiani, AP Makhinova, GA Meshveliani, Charles M. Mirianashvnli, EI Monaenkovu, H, V. Naumova, VV Ovcharovo, DP Oboladze, VP Petukhov, G. Polevoy, YI Porohnya, C, D. Sabanidze, SM Savvon, VG Staritsky, DP Stepanenko, SS Tulipov, GK KHRAMTSOVA, DB Sharashenidze, GN Schepalovoy. A special thanks for their valuable advice and assistance in preparing the manuscript author is [ A. I. Gvalia] and OI Gigineishvili.

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LEGEND

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Lechkhum RIDGE

ЛЕЧХУМСКИЙ ХРЕБЕТ

Chutharo, Sandro, Samertshle

Чутхаро, Сандро, Самерцхле

In the south-west of the Great Caucasus Range, from its top Passismta off Lechkhum ridge, which is the largest watershed of West Georgia Rioni River and its main tributary Tskhenistskali, as well as the natural border between Lentekhi District of Georgia (Lower Svaneti) and the areas they, Ambrolauri and Tsageri.

Over the eastern slopes of the upper valley of grassy Tskhenistskali, Lechkhum across the ridge is a rocky massif that resembles a medieval castle with numerous battle towers. The extreme western peaks of "Castle" - Chutharo West, Central and East (3520 m) - a huge rock with steep walls rise above the villages and Natsuli Chihareshi. In the center of the array between the two saddles are located West and East (3510 m) peaks Sandro, named after the famous Georgian climber and skier AI Gvalia. The extreme eastern peaks of "Castle" - West (3510 m) and Home (3584 m) Samertshle.

North of the array Samertshle - Chutharo, near the top of Passismta in a small western spur Lechkhum ridge is a simple hard rock shattered the top of a rag-tag (3750 m). In 1971 it went up to the north climbers composed of: A. Naumov, A. Drozdowski, S. Naumov and Naumova, other ascents were not.

1. Chutharo West, North Face, 4A c / d (P. Beard-ling, A. Dmitriev, V. Molnar, B. Hudak, July 14, 1979).

2. Chutharo West by West Ridge, 3A c / d (A. Naumov, 3. Atanazevich, V.Verigo, R. Grinechko, L. Pirogov, G. Found, G. Tserediani, August 7, 1971).

3. Chutharo Centre for South-western slope, 2B c / d (N. Alkhutov, T. Grigolashvili, S. Herman, Yu Lisha, Y. Martynov, P. Romanenko, T. Safronov, V. Schepankovsky, Tarasevich, B. Hudak, July 11, 1979).

4. Chutharo East at East Ridge, 2A c / d (composition m 2).

5. Chutharo West - East, 3B c / d (composition m 2).

6. Chutharo East - West, 3A c / d.

7. Sandro West by West Ridge, 3B c / d.

8. Sandro West by South-east slope, 2A c / d (A.Naumov, J. Beruashviln, Sh Dadeshkeliani, Klimov and 27 participants, 19 August 1971).

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9. Sandro Home on South-west wall, 4A c / d (B. Hudak, S. Herman, E. Mikhailov, T. Safronova, V. Schepankovsky, July 16, 1979).

Fig. 2. The scheme Chutharo - Samertshle

10. Sandro Home on South East Buttress ridge 2A c / d (structure 12 m).

11. Sandro West - Home, 3B c / d (A. Naumov, Andrei A., G. Klimov, Kovalenko, E. Grevinsh, A. Korhov, N. Nedosekin, E. Nikitina, P. Piternieks, V. Rantynsh, B. Samohvalov, August 20, 1971).

12. Samertshle West by West Ridge, 3B c / d (A. Naumov, E. Grevinsh, Kovalenko, P. Piternieks, V. Rantynsh, August 21, 1971).

13. Samertshle West by East Ridge, 2A c / d (structure 12 m).

14. Samertshle Home on West Ridge, 3B c / d (Yuri Kozlov, A. Dmitriev, July 16, 1979).

15. Samertshle West - Home, 4A c / d (S. Kozlov, A. Dmitriev, July 16, 1979).

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Fig. 3.

1. Chutharo Western North Face (Route combined, P. Baradulin 4A c / d, Fig. 2, 3).

From climbing camp "Zeskho" (a group of 2-6 people) down the canyon road Zeskho, then - the canyon Cana, on the right side of the valley Tskhenistskali. Crossing over the river bridge Tskhenistskali, climb down a country road to Natsuli.Above this village on the road, trail, passing a pig farm (near her left of the road has fontanelle), walk to the river Natsuli. In the right-hand branch of the road, the trail does not go away! From the bridge over the river steep climb of 300-400 m along the forest road, trail, on a gentle rise on the left side of the gorge before entering the alpine meadows where the road, going to the trail is lost. Followed by a pack trail left side of the gorge, beating an array Chutharo right, walk to a grassy gully with a creek at the bottom. Here turn left and the grassy slope to the right of the gully climb the platforms in a little sheltered from the wind grassy quads among large rocks under the southern slopes of the saddle connecting the tops Chutharo and Sandro. On the grounds of the base camp. The water in the 70-100 m above areas under stones (not always in the same place). Highways Valley Tskhenistskali 5-6 hours.

From the base camp traverse to the left on the grassy slopes of the array Chutharo climb the grassy saddle western ridge tops Chutharo West. You can climb to the saddle on the grassy slopes with a pack trail before reaching the base camp.

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From the saddle on the scree slope to the circus glacier Chutharo. On scree and ice-snow slope on the right side of the circus climb to the saddle of the North ridge, off the top of the wall from the North West Chutharo. From the base camp 1.5-2 hours.

Turn right on the saddle and simple rocks 150-200-meter-high ridge of the North come under the vertical black wet corner of North Face tops Chutharo West. On difficult and above average difficulty rocks wall, then the chimney-cleft left hand corner of the black rise 100 meters (a key place route, ladders) on a grassy shelf left side of the gully. On the shelves of 200-300 meters up and left on the steep cliffs of moderate difficulty, alternating with simple scree shelves ("living" stones), the snow-covered balcony (on the left side of the balcony round).

From the balcony of 200-250 m up-right for easy rocks, alternating with the ice-snow slopes to the saddle between the peaks of the array Chutharo West and Central.

Here turn right and simple rocks of the Eastern ridge to summit Chutharo West. From the crest of the North Col 7-9 hours. On the route of wide cracks.

2. Chutharo West by West Ridge (Route rock, A. Naumov, 3A, c / d, Fig. 2, 3).

On the grassy saddle (1 m) and turn right on a wide grassy slope, scree and easy rocks to climb on top of Chutharo West Ridge West, to the right of it I policeman. Right around the gendarme on simple rocks. Next on simple rocks and large debris West ridge come under II gendarme, who work around the shelves on the left. On a simple rocky ruined West Ridge, overcoming or circumventing many gendarmes out on a narrow bridge.

From the bridge (key position, hooks) straight up the 2-meter-high wall of hard, followed by 12-15-meter steep smooth slab of moderate difficulty. Next on the simple ("live" rocks, insurance) rocks in places steep 200-300-meter-West ridge to summit Chutharo West. From the saddle of 4 - 5 hours.

3. Chutharo Centre for South-western slope (combined route 2B, c / d, Fig. 2, 3).

From the base camp (1 m) up and to the left on grassy slopes and the big scree come under the Central Couloir with a big stopper, coming down out of the saddle I gendarme between Central and Western Chutharo.

Enter through the rock step in possibly snowy Central Couloir. According to the couloir up, avoiding short wall on the shelves ("live" rocks, insurance). Before reaching the rock jams rise up and to the right on easily eroded rocks with short simple walls. Then, after a traverse to the right of the ice-snow slope, get off at the shoulder of the South ridge I gendarme saddle.

With shoulder on simple rocks go right into a rocky gully south-western slope of the Central Chutharo. Hence 150-200 m up under the cover of the left vertical walls (stones, insurance) gradually narrowing the gully and up the steep narrow 40-50-foot couloir ("live" rocks, insurance) up to the bridge of the array.

Here turn right and simple rocks with two 10-12-foot walls of moderate difficulty 100-120-meter-West ridge to summit Chutharo Central. From the base camp 5-7 hours.

4. Chutharo East by East Ridge (Route rock, 2A c / d, Fig. 2, 3).

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From the base camp (1 m) climb up the grassy slopes, followed by a scree gully coming down from the saddle between the peaks of the array Chutharo left and right Sandro. The steep simple, locally moderate difficulty couloir (stones, "living" stones, insurance) to climb to the crest of the saddle array. From the base camp 2-2.5 hours.

Here turn left and simple rocks saddle, beating the gendarmes left on the steep cliffs (insurance), come under the East ridge tops Chutharo East. Here right up to 5-6-meter wall of moderate difficulty (hooks). Next on the rocks with a simple two steep ups (insurance) 120-150-meter East Ridge to summit Chutharo East. From the base camp 3.5-4 hours.

5. Chutharo West - East (Route rock, A. Naumov, 3B c / d, Fig. 2, 3).

With Chutharo Western (m 2) descent on a wide mere 100-120-meter rocky East Ridge. Furthermore, bypassing the I and II gendarmes saddle right on the shelves and simple destroyed rocks, come under the 10-12-foot wall of the base of the West ridge tops Chutharo Central. On the rocks of average difficulty of the wall (hooks) straight up. Further rise of 50-60 m traverse the steep cliffs of moderate difficulty right side of West Ridge (insurance) Chutharo Central. Then, around the talus summit tower on the right to access to its East ridge. Here turn left and on a simple 60-wide 80-meter East ridge to summit Chutharo Central. From West 1-1.5 hours.

With Central down on a simple rocky East Ridge. Next on the simple crest, overcoming all the gendarmes low on the forehead, to go under the saddle of the West Ridge Chutharo East. From the saddle, breaking the forehead on the rocks of moderate difficulty 12-15-foot wall (hooks) on a simple 150-200-meter rocky west ridge to come off under Chutharo East. The steep cliffs 15-meter take-off ("live" rocks, insurance) to ascend to the top of Chutharo East. From Central 1-1.5 hours.

Option descent to the saddle along the way. climbing the west ridge. From the saddle down-left (south), first on the left, then on the right side of the wide rocky couloir (stones, "living" stones, insurance), followed by mutton foreheads, simple rocks, scree and grassy slopes down to the base camp.

6. Chutharo East - West (Route rock, 3A, c / d, Fig. 2, 3).

With Chutharo Eastern (4 pm) sports descent of 15-20 m, 150-200 m further on simple rocks of the western ridge with a sporty 12-15 m descent to the saddle. With the saddle II gendarme get left, I gendarme-right and behind him on simple destroyed rocks 100-120-meter East Ridge to summit Chutharo Central. From the East around 1:00.

With Central on simple rocks with two 10-12-meter high walls of the 100-120-foot descent to the crest of the Western saddle. II and I get the gendarmes saddle on the shelves and easy rocks on the left and on a wide mere 100-120-meter rocky East ridge to summit Chutharo West. From Central 1.5-2 hours.

Option descent. Coming in from the west ridge of 40-50 m down, turn trifling and three sports and maillon rapide down to the scree gully, and it will then go on grassy slopes to the base camp.

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Fig. 4.

7. Sandro West by West Ridge (Route rock, 3B c / d, Fig. 2, 4).

From the base camp (1 m) climb up the grassy slope along the creek, and then on to a narrow snow-covered scree gully coming down from the array from the base of the West ridge tops

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Sandro West. On simple rocks then left, then the right-hand side of the narrow steep and snowy couloir (stones, insurance) climb to the bridge of the array.

Here turn right and traverse to the right and upwards on common destroyed rocks right out of the West ridge on its southern abutment. On ordinary steep cliffs of the South buttress (insurance), the rise in the West Ridge. From here to the right and up the cliffs of moderate difficulty 50-60-meter-high wall of West Ridge (kryuchevaya insurance) under the eaves. Cornice around the left and above to enter the site of the West ridge. From a platform on the steep slabs of medium difficulty (hooks), and then simply destroyed rocks of the western ridge out under the gendarme. The cliffs above average difficulty fireplace, then the vertical inner corner of the left side of West Ridge (hooks), the rise in the gendarme. With a simple policeman on the ruined west ridge to summit Sandro West. From the base camp 5.5-6 hours.

8. Sandro West by South-eastern slope (rock route, 2A c / d, Fig. 2, 4).

From the base camp (1 m) on a grassy slope, then scree come to a narrow snow-covered scree gully on the right side of the South West ridge tops Sandro. Couloir on s0-40m up. Then traverse 80-100 m with a slight rise along the gully on the shelves and light rocks south-eastern slope of the Western Sandro enter the site under tiles that go up and to the left on the south-eastern slope.

From a platform to the left and 80-100 meters up on the right side of the board ("live" rocks, insurance), right along the vertical walls. Then traverse 40-50 m upwards and to the left to cross the plate ("living" stones, insurance). Next on the simple destroyed rocks and 5-8-foot inner corner fireplace-up to the balcony. Narrows on the balcony traverse the Southeast slope with a slight rise to the right, then traverse up and left on a shelf in a wide area. From a platform for simple destroyed rocks 30m south-eastern slope of the climb to the summit Sandro West. From the base camp for 4-5 hours.

9. Sandro Home on South-west wall (combined route, B. Hudak, 4A c / d, Fig. 2, 4).

From the base camp (1 m) up the steep grassy slope, then the snow-covered scree come under the left side of the south-western wall of the top Home Sandro with a strong outline of "Seven."

To the left of the "seven" on the steep smoothed greenish difficult plates 50-60 m upwards. Then, over the fireplace, turning into the wide cleft with a stopper, 40 meters up on the snowfield. After going snowfield, 80 m up the chimney above average difficulty on the green shelf on which the 40-meter difficult corner to enter the large shelf under the eaves (the tour).

From the shelf (key position) 40m up the hard rocks of the wall on the shelf. From the ledge 40 meters up the hard rocks of the left side of a vertical wet corner. Next on the rocks of moderate difficulty lifting 40 m on a sloping shelf ("live" rocks). From the ledge on the steep cliffs of moderate difficulty lifting of 60-80 m nya scallop, and with it 40 meters up the wall hard. Next on the rocks of moderate difficulty and easy to climb to the top of Sandro Home. From the base camp 6-8 hours.

10. Sandro Home on the South Buttress East Ridge (Route rock, 2A c / d, Fig. 2, 4). From the base camp (1 pm) traverse right across the southern grassy slopes and scree come under the

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broad scree Lechkhum saddle ridge and easily eroded rocks to climb it - saddle buttress South East ridge tops Sandro Home. From the base camp 1-1.5 hours.

On the saddle and turn left on ordinary destroyed rocks right side of the South buttress with a few simple 2-3-meter high walls to come to the Big gendarme. The gendarme around the left with a descent down a narrow gully and debris to enter the narrow bridge. From the bridge climb 15-18 meters along the steep cliffs and right (insurance). Then, by simple rocks up and left on the broad jumper off a southern slope of the Eastern ridge tops Sandro Home. From the bridge (key sector, "living" stones, hooks), the rise of 12-15 m along the cliffs rise on the shelf under the vertical wall.Traverse along the ledge to the right (insurance) to get around the wall and light rocks and scree climb to a broad array of saddle between the peaks and Sandro Samertshle (large round). From the base camp 2-2.5 hours.

On the saddle, turn left and its just a long rocky ridge come under a gendarme East Ridge Sandro main. The gendarme held in the forehead on the rocks with a slight descent from it to the right. Next on the easily eroded rocks on the right side of the crest of the East come under the South East gendarme. Hence, traverse to the right on the scree rocks, a short shelf, through the narrow steep ice-snow couloir and again approach the talus scree gully with a cork coming down from the bridge between the Southeast and the top of the gendarme. Here turn left and scree gully narrows, beating rocky cap left (insurance), climb the narrow bridge. On the bridge and turn right, beating the left overhanging rock on common steep cliffs (insurance), followed by a steep scree climb to the top Sandro Home. From the big tour 3-3.5 hours.

11. Sandro West - Home (Route combined, A. Naumov, 3B c / d, Fig. 2.4).

Sandra West (8 m) descent easily eroded rocks on the right side of East Ridge. I gendarme get right on common destroyed rocks and shelves. Next on the rocks easy to East Ridge II policeman who work around the left on the shelves. Then traverse the rocks left side of the long East Ridge, crossing the ice-snow slope to come to a narrow ice-snow couloir. Turning couloir (insurance), in some places a narrow shelf (hooks) to get ice-snow gully coming down from the North ridge tops Sandro Home.

From the ledge 20 m up on the right side of a steep snow-ice couloir (hooks). Then, after 1.5-2-meter-high rock internal angle traverse move to the left side of the cliff of ice-snow couloir. The steep cliffs of moderate difficulty destroyed the left side of the gully climb 40 meters (hooks) to the ice-snow saddle of the North ridge. According to the saddle come to the right under the North wall of the top Sandro Home. Hence 30-40 m to the left and down the right side of the east couloir (insurance). Next, go to the rocks of the North Face, where 60 - 80 m up-right on the steep incline of the plates and medium difficulty (hooks), then 60-80 meters up the easy rocks ("live" rocks) at North Ridge. Finally, easily eroded rocks to climb to the top of Sandro Home. From West 3-4 hours.

12. Samertshle West by West Ridge (Route rock, A. Naumov, 3B c / d, Fig. 2, 4).

On a broad saddle between the peaks of the array Sandro Samertshle (big tour, 10 meters) off to the right and move to a prime 200-300-meter wide Samertshle West Ridge West, overcoming low gendarmes and takeoffs on the forehead.Then 8-10 m keen on medium difficulty (insurance) west ridge. Next on the shelves and easy rocks on the right side of the west ridge. Fooling the right (insurance) gendarme • "Djvari" come under the vertex off.

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Hence, traverse to the right on the narrow shelves to enter the rib from which traverse of 30 m to the right over the smooth plates (hooks) to the narrow vertical gully-fire. By gully-fireplace ("live" rocks) 10 m up on the shelf, and with her up the steep smooth 30-meter slab (hooks) on a narrow shelf. Sometimes interrupted by a narrow shelf under the overhanging walls traverse with a slight rise to the right on a narrow bridge of the Southern edge.

On the bridge and turn left, avoiding the overhanging rocks, the rocks of moderate difficulty wall 40 meters up ("live" rocks, pitons). Next on simple rocks to reach the summit Samertshle West. From the big tour, the exit site to the saddle of the array, 5-6 hours.

Option descending the easy rocks on the eastern crest of the jumper. From the bridge to the right (south) and down easily just destroyed rocks couloir (stones). Next on the ice-snow slope downhill grassy slopes and on them the saddle ridge Lechkhum return to base camp.

13. Samertshle West by East Ridge (Route combined, 2A c / d, Fig. 2, 4). From the saddle of the South West buttress ridge tops Sandro Home (10 meters) downhill to the east, then up-left and up the grassy slopes, then come to a narrow scree gully coming down from the bridge of the array from the base of the East ridge tops Samertshle West. Hence, straight up 80-100 m along the ice-snow couloir, which goes into the hillside, further 250-300 m in an easy and simple rocks steep narrow couloir (stones, "living" stones, insurance) climb to the bridge of the array. Here turn left and up the steep walls of a simple short-rocks 150-180-meter-East ridge to summit Samertshle West. From the base camp 5-6 hours.

14. Samertshle Home on West Ridge (Route rock, Y. Kozlov, 3B c / d, Fig. 2, 4).

On the bridge between the West and the main summit Samertshle (13 meters) and turn right on the cliffs high above the average difficulty of 25-30 meters up the wall with a gap (hooks). Then traverse to the right side on the shelves I policeman before entering the eastern shoulder. With shoulder rappelling 40 meters to the bridge. From the bridge over the rocks of moderate difficulty with short walls above average difficulty, bypassing the low gendarmes West ridge, come under the top off. Hence traverse 80 m on the steep cliffs of moderate difficulty, interrupted by short walls. Then smoothed by a steep 50-meter boards, and 6-foot corner of the lift (hooks) to the South Buttress. Here turn left and the gentle scree-80 100-meter South Buttress to summit Samertshle Home. From the base camp of 8-10 hours.

15. Samertshle West - Home (Route rock, Y. Kozlov, 4A c / d, Fig. 2, 4).

With Samertshle West (12 meters) down on a simple rocky East Ridge ("live" rocks) to the bridge. On further ascent route to the summit Samertshle Home on West Ridge m 14 cm.

PASSISMTA, SHARITAU, MACHHAPARA

ПАССИСМТА, ШАРИТАУ, МАЧХАПАРА

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Strongly torn lednichok Tskhenistskali feeding the flow of the river of the same name Rioni is a square formed by the Great Caucasus Range with peaks Passismta, Sharitau and Machhapara. Passismta (3970 m) - the center of the top of GKH - rises in the south-east corner of the lednichka Tskhenistskali, Gezeptsek pass between the south-east and Sharitau peak (3700 m) in the north. The southern buttresses of the Southeast ridge Passismta the pass Vatsistsveri go into Lechhumskny range. The north-eastern slopes and ridges and Passismta Sharitau descend into the gorge Karasu. South-western ridge, slope down to the Sharitau-wide ice-snow saddle of Tskhenistskali, on the south side of which rises to the top of the slope Machhapara (3600 m). South-West Ridge Machhapary goes to spur Zeskho with the same name panoramic peak at its end, and the North-West ridge descends to the eastern saddle of Sharivtsek.

16. Passismta for South-east ridge, 1B c / d (S. St. George with climbers MEI, July 1937).

17. Passismta the South Buttress of South-eastern ridge, 1B c / d (A. Gvalia, I. Aslanishvili, G. Grigolashvili, A. Lobjanidze, III. Makashvili, D. Purtseladze, V. Cheishvili, October 2, 1932).

18. Passismta on the west ridge, 3B c / d (A. Naumov, E. Vdovenco, I. Grishkov, August 25, 1965).

19. Passismta on the North slope, 3B c / d.

20. Passismta in the North-east ridge, 3A c / d (A. Japaridze Dzhaparidze, L. Gotha, July 12, 1938).

Fig. 5. Scheme area alpine camp "3eskho" and "Ailama"

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21. Sharitau for South-east ridge, 2A c / d (G. Gulbju-no, D. Gugava, S. Gugava, G. Tikanadze, July 30, 1958).

22. Sharitau on the southwestern slopes, 1B c / d (A. Gvalia - with a descent on skis, I. Aslanishvili, A. Lobjanidze, Sh Makashvili, G. Grigolashvili, D. Purtseladze, V. Cheyshviyai, October 4, 1932 ).

23. Sharitau on the North ridge, 1B c / d (A. Paraysky, J. Arnold, J. Tamm, June 12, 1932).

24. Sharitau in the North-east ridge, 1B c / d (A. Berdichevsky, B. Melnikov and others, Aug. 12, 1933).

25. Machhapara in the North-eastern slope, 1A c / d (structure 21 m).

26. Machhapara for South-western ridge, 2A c / d (A. Kikoin, E. Vdovenco, August 6, 1965).

27. Machhapara in the North-western ridge, 1B c / d (structure 22 m).

Fig. 6

16. Passismta for South-east ridge (combined route, 1B c / d, Fig. 5, 6).

From climbing camp "Zeskho" up the road, then the path of the gorge. During the clearing of the lower bivouacs, having a little Zeskho up the gorge, cross the river Zeskho and turning right along the path and grassy, then scree slope to climb to the pass Lapuri - the lowest saddle spur Zeskho. From climbing camp "Zeskho" 4-5 hours. From the pass, on scree, then go down the grassy slope to the river Tskhenistskali, and crossing it, climb the grassy slopes of the plateau is a wide range Lechkhum - Pass Vatsistsveri. From climbing camp "Zeskho" 7-10 hours. From the pass, the grassy slopes down to the valley of the upper reaches of the Rioni. After crossing the river Rioni, get on the trail. Here turn left and go up the trail right bank of the Rioni. On a wide moraine ridge to the right of the flow up to the pass Gezevtsek.From the pass Vatsistsveri 4-5 hours.

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At the pass, turn left and its light snow-covered rocks go to the south-east ridge tops Passismta. Hence, on a wide snow-covered rocky south-east ridge, then along the length of the ice-snow (eaves) South-east ridge with steep ups simple breakdown ("live" rocks, insurance) rose to the top of the plateau. On ice-snow plateau, followed by a light snow-covered rocks to reach the summit Passismta. From the pass Gezevtsek 3-5 hours.

17. Passismta the South Buttress of South-east ridge (combined route, 1B c / d, Fig. 5, 6). On the pass Vatsistsveri (16 meters), turn left and go over the grassy slopes of the South buttress the Southeast ridge tops Passismta. Hence 350-400 meters up the wide ridge with numerous couloirs (stones, "living" stones "insurance) southern buttresses. Then the narrow, snow-covered seats (cornices, insurance) easy rocky ruined South Buttress, then along the ice-snow slope to enter the summit plateau. Here turn left and on the snowy plateau and easy destroyed rocks to reach the summit Passismta. From the pass Vatsistsveri 4-6 hours.

18. Passismta on the west ridge (combined route, A. Naumov, 3B c / d, Fig. 5, 6).

From climbing camp "Zeskho" up the road to the Low grounds, then the trail Zeskho the right bank of the river and continue along the snowfield, closing the river. At the top of the canyon with Snowfield turn left and traverse the path of the left slope of the approach to the falls. Hence the steep path to the left of the waterfalls to move up, then clicking the left stream, get the trail to the top of the pass Sharivtsek site. From climbing camp "Zeskho" 4-5 hours. On the grounds on light rocks, scree and snow slope up and to the right to enter the pass Sharivtsek East. From the top sites 0.5 hours.On the pass off to the right and up the north-western ridge Machhapary (see 27 meters). Rise out of the summit down to the left on the plateau of the Eastern branch of the glacier and Fytnargin on it (closed cracks) to enter the saddle of Tskhenistskali. Possible source camp.

Tskhenistskali descent from the pass to the left up a steep ice-snow slope (insurance), followed by the ice-snow slopes (closed cracks) the left side of the glacier Tskhenistskali heavily damaged, along the southern slopes of the South-eastern ridge Sharitau (stones) to come under his saddle. Here turn right and traverse under the northern slopes of the north-east ridge tops Passismta come under the left side of the West ridge tops. From the pass Tshepistskali 1-1.5 hours.

From the glacier, passing bergshrund, the steep ice-snow slope with a crack in the upper part (hooks) 100-120 m up to the West of the West ridge Passismty shoulder. Here, turn left, then on a simple snow-covered rocky Isle (eaves) 200-300-meter west ridge pass in the forehead policeman and destroyed the steep snow-covered cliffs come under vertex takeoff. The steep 70-80-foot ice-snow slope up (avalanches, rocks, insurance). Further up-to-right on the steep snow-covered ruined medium difficulty rocks 30-40-meter inner corner (hooks) out on the West edge.

The steep snow-covered and destroyed much simpler, locally moderate difficulty rocks 150-200-meter-Western edge then 100-120-foot ice-snow slope exit (hooks) to the summit ridge and ice-snow gently sloping ridge, followed by a slight destroyed rocks climb to the top Passismta. From the glacier Tskhenistskali 3-5 hours.

19. Pacsismta on the North slope (combined route, 3B c / d, Fig. 5, 6).

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From the glacier Tshsnistskali (18 m) at the ice-snow slope to approach bergschrund under the North slope Passismty.Coming through the snow bridge bergshrund, the steep ice-snow slope upwards of 80-100 m (avalanches, hooks) to the bottom of the ice cracks which overcome by snow bridges (hooks). 200-300 m further up the steep ice-snow slope (avalanches, hooks) to the top of the ice cracked, which is easier to pass on the left. Then 150-200 meters up and left on the ice-snow slope (insurance) under the icy rocky couloir left side top of the tower. The steep couloir medium difficulty lifting of 60-80 m (hooks) in the north-east ridge. Here turn right and on the snowy plateau and easy destroyed rocks to reach the summit Passismta. 4-7 hours from the glacier.

20. Passismta in the North-east ridge (combined route, A. Japaridze 3A c / d, Fig. 5, 6).

From the glacier Tskhenistskali (18 m) to the left and, breaking bergshrund, move to the right ice discharges and mutton foreheads on the ice-snow slope (insurance). Then go on scree to the saddle south-eastern ridge Sharitau. On the saddle turn right and go to the North buttress the Northeast ridge tops Passismta. By simply breaking down the rocks of the North buttress go under the rock off that get left on the steep ice-snow 40-50-meter slope (insurance), and a simple destroyed 15-20-meter cliffs rise to shoulder Northeast ridge Passismty.

Here turn right and on a wide scree easily eroded long rocky north-east ridge, followed by 50-60-meter-high snow (eaves) sharp rock under the bridge approach I take off. The steep snow-covered cliffs rise rise 30 meters ("living" stones, hooks) on the forehead. Next on the simple wide snowy North East ridge and narrow snow-covered 15-20-foot jumper (cornice) come under II takeoff. The steep snow-covered easy 50-60-meter cliff with a 12-15-meter-high wall to climb ("living" stones, hooks) to take off and a gentle snow-covered south-east ridge reach the summit plateau. On the snowy plateau, followed by a slight destroyed rocks to reach the summit Passismta. From the glacier Tskhenistskali 4-7 hours.

21. Sharitau for South-east ridge (combined route 2A c / d, Fig. 5).

On the saddle south-eastern ridge Sharitau (20 meters) and turn left on strongly destroyed easy, simple and cool places (insurance) long rugged cliffs south-eastern ridge, overcoming many gendarmes in his forehead, or ignoring them left on ordinary steep cliffs (" living "stones, insurance), come under the vertex off. The steep destroyed easy with simple wall rocks 200-250-meter take-off (insurance), then scree Southeast ridge to summit Sharitau. From the saddle 3-5 hours.

23. Sharitau on the North ridge (combined route, 1B c / d, Fig. 5).

On the eastern saddle of the pass Sharivtsek (18 m) 100-120m down-right on a flat glacier (closed cracks), then traverse to the right of 500-700 m on the snow slope below the broken steep eastern branch-circus glacier Fytnargin.Subsequently, 250 - 300 m up the wide snowy gully gutter-circus glacier between the left and the slope of the North ridge Sharitau right, and lung damage cliffs rise of 15-30 m to the saddle of the North ridge Sharitau - False Pass Sharivtsek. 30-40 minutes from the pass.

Here, turn right and the shallow ice-snow North ridge out of the lower arm. Next on the light strongly destroyed, sometimes snow-covered rocks of the North ridge, followed by a sharp snow-covered bridge (cornice, insurance) come under the top off. On ordinary strongly

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destroyed, sometimes steep cliffs rise of North Ridge (insurance) to ascend to the top of Sharitau. From the pass Sharivtsek 4-6 hours.

26. Machhapara for South-western ridge (combined route 2A c / d, Fig. 5, 7).

From the top of the pass Sharivtsek sites (18 m) traverse to the right on the moraine, snowy slopes, screes and across the moraine to enter the lednichok Machhapara under the North-western slopes of the peaks Machhapara. With lednichka up the steep ice-snow slope to the left side of the base of the West buttress South-western ridge Machhapary (insurance). 120-140 m further up the steep ice-snow slope left of the West buttress (hooks) to climb the bridge south-western ridge tops.

On the bridge, turn left and up the slight destroyed rocks south-western ridge, breaking the gendarmes and the short wall in the forehead by a simple steep cliffs ("live" rocks, insurance), and scree and easy destroyed rocks to reach the summit Machhapara. The upper areas of 4-7 hours.

27. Machhapara the Northwest ridge (combined route, 1B c / d, Fig. 5, 7).

On the pass Sharivtsek East (18 meters) and turn right on implicit wide and gently sloping ice-snow north-western ridge, avoiding the rocky outcrops, suitable for large gendarme. The gendarme get right on the ice-snow slope (insurance), followed by a slight destroyed rocks out in the North-West ridge. The snow-covered scree North-western ridge, beating Small policeman on the right, walk under the top off. By simply destroyed rocks take-off (insurance) up to the summit ridge and the gentle light snow-covered rocky north-western ridge reach the top Machhapara. From the pass Sharivtsek 1.5-2 hours.

FYTNARGINSKOE PLATEAU

ФЫТНАРГИНСКОЕПЛАТО

Mardzhanishvili Zeskho, White Stranger, Fytnargin

Марджанишвили, Зесхо, БелаяНезнакомка, Фытнаргин

At an altitude of 3000 m along the north side of the Great Caucasus Range is a huge bowl of ice plateau Fytnargin flowing off the steep icefall in canyon Karasu. On the south side of the top of the plateau rise GCMR Sharitau, Machhapara, Mardzhanishvili (3850 m), named after the famous Georgian theater director, and Zeskho (4050 m). In the gorge Zeskho with Machhapary, Mardzhanishvili and Zeskho down long ridges and rocky buttresses. In the western side of the plateau from the nodes policeman northern spur of the Great Caucasus Range extends from the first vertex of the beautiful White Stranger (4200 m). For the spur of the White stranger turns east, passing in a wide array of top Fytnargnn (4184 m), bordering the plateau to the north. The northern ice slopes Fytnargina and White Stranger glacier fed

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Ailama. Fytnarginskoe plateau strongly broken cracks in different directions, with frequent mists deprives landmarks, so when driving on the plateau it is desirable to have a compass and a map with the plotted landmarks.

28. Mardzhanishvili on East Ridge, 2A c / d (structure 21 m).

29. Mardzhanishvili for South-Eastern eklonu 2A c / d (G. Japaridze, T. Beard, July 25, 1965).

30. Mardzhanishvili the South ridge, 2B c / d (Sh Margiani, R. et al Sokolovsky, August 1, 1970).

31. Mardzhanishvili on the west ridge, 2B c / d (A. Naumov, T. Beruashvili, L. Bychenkova, V. Dyurinsky, D. Kelahsashvili, M. Krawiec, V. Kuzmichenok, A. Ratiani, V. Skhirtladze August 20, 1970 .).

32. Zeskho East (Ninoshvili) on the Eastern slope, 1B c / d (composition m 21 m 34 cm).

33. Home Zeskho but East Ridge, 1B c / d (structure 21 m).

34. Zeskho East (Ninoshvili) - Home, 2B c / d (structure 21 m).

35. Zeskho Home on South-east ridge, 3B c / d (A. Naumov, S. Vasiliev, T. Maysuradze, V. Litskevich, V. Sabanidze, A. Strelnikova, July 14, 1980).

36. Zeskho Home on South Ridge, 3A c / d (V. Sidorov, D. Lots, A. Papush, G. Fedotko, July 10, 1979).

37. Zeskho West by West Ridge, 1B c / d.

38. Zeskho Home West, 2A c / d (structure 21 m).

39. Zeskho West - Home, 2A c / d.

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Fig. 7

40. White Stranger on the South ridge of Nodal policeman GCMR 3B c / d (Pulinets Yu et al, July 1979).

41. White Stranger on the South-West Ridge Nodal policeman GCMR 4A c / d (K. Dadeshkeliani, N. Filippova, Yurchenko, J. Khabuliani, August 11, 1968).

42. White Stranger on the South West edge of the gendarme, 4A c / d (Ginzburg, V. Melnik, O. Rodnosova, A. Fedorov, 20-22 July 1980).

43. White Stranger on the South edge of the Central West policeman crest, 4B * c / d (Kornienko, O. Belevich, B. Zadneprovskij, Galkin, 1-3 August 1981).

44. White Stranger on the west ridge Nodal policeman GCMR 3B c / d (V. Nedokladov, A. Berdichevsky, A. Kolesnikov, Olkhovskiy, August 12, 1936).

45. White Stranger on the North ridge, 2B c / d (A. Naumov, S. Naumov, N. Naumova, Rodionov, V. Chegel, K. Ellik, July 13, 1971).

46. White Stranger at East Ridge, 3A c / d (V. Sabanidze, A. Vlasov, P. Kabanov, L. Strelkova, August 15, 1977).

47. White Stranger from the southeast at gully, 3A c / d (B. Trapeznikov, M. Chertkov, July 25, 1936).

48. White Stranger on East Buttress Nodal policeman GCMR 4A * c / d.

49. White Stranger on the east wall Nodal policeman GCMR 4A c / d (A. Naumov, S. Dadeshkeliani, S. Naumov, N. Naumova, Rodionov, V. Chegel, K. Ellik, July 12, 1971).

50. Stranger White - Black, 4B c / d (G. Gulbani, D. Gugava, S. Gugava, G. Tikanadze, 2-3 July 1958, pp. Prakapovich Arsent'ev S., A. Basenko, E. Hromin, 4-6 August 1979).

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51. Fytnargin on the west ridge, 3B c / d (Porohnya Yu, X. Kuznetsov, L. Pavlicenco, V. Petukhov, A. Tales, Yuri Soloviev, July 22, 1977).

52. Fytnargin from the south along the western ridge of the couloir, 3A c / d (V. Laperashvili, P. Antilles, V. Vasiliev, Volnov, V. Matitaishvili, Shcherbakov, August 14, 1967).

53. Fytnargin the South East Buttress ridge, 3B c / d (structure 52 m).

54. Fytnargin from the south along the crest of the East Couloir, 2B c / d,

55. Fytnargin on East Ridge, 2A c / d (A. Paraysky, J. Arnold, M. Dadiomov, I. Tamm, July 15, 1928).

28. Mardzhanishvili on East Ridge (route the ice-snow, 2A c / d, Fig. 5, 6).

On the grounds of the pass Sharivtsek (18 meters), turn left and go up the creek, then to the left of waterfalls along the grassy moraine, snowy slope with rocky beds. Above the falls off to the right and a 3-5-meter rise of rock out on the ice-snow slope. The gentle slope to climb towards the left side of the Western Saddle Pass Sharivtsek. Without leaving the pass, turn left and uncool snow slope on the left I get around a rocky ridge tops East gendarme Mardzhanishvili (a policeman rockfalls). From the top sites 1-1.5 hours. On the same route under I gendarme from the Lower East Ridge roosting see on 29.

I policeman from 200 m up the snowy slope left of East Ridge (eaves). Bypassing II gendarme rocky outcrops and large snow cornices, turn right and go to the East Ridge. The steep 150-200-foot snow (insurance), then the wide scree East ridge to summit Mardzhanishvili. I policeman from 1.5-2 hours.

29. Mardzhanishvili on the southeast slope (combined route 2A c / d, Fig. 5, 6).

From climbing camp "Zeskho" up the road to the Valley of the left side of the first-Valley West Zeskho with two streams.Lower spending the night here. From climbing camp "Zeskho" 30-40 minutes. From here, turn left and go up the trail center gorge. Next on the grassy slopes and scree, followed by a snowy slope in trough lednichka Zeskho. From trough to the right and a gentle snow slope up to the saddle of the South ridge tops Mardzhanishvili. From climbing camp 2.5-3 hours.

Traverse from the saddle of 600-800 m on a gently sloping ice-snow slopes on the right side of the South ridge. After passing the saddle of the Southeast buttress, go to the ice-snow south eastern side, and it will come up under the left side of the policeman I Mardzhanishvili East Ridge. From the crest of the South Col 30 - 40 minutes. Oh by the way I gendarme from the upper areas of the pass Sharivtsek see on 28.

I policeman from 100-120 m traverse up and left the steep ice-snow south-eastern slope of the (insurance) to the right rocky island. Cross the island (stones, "living" stones, insurance), a steep 15-20-meter ice-snow slope and left behind him a rocky island. For the island of 100-120 meters up the steep ice-snow south-eastern slope of the (insurance), or between rocks and ice, followed by ice-snow and then scree slope to enter the summit ridge, and it will get on top of Mardzhanishvili. I policeman from 1.5-2 hours.

30. Mardzhanishvili the South ridge (combined route. 2B c / d, Fig. 5, 6).

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On the crest of the South Col Mardzhanishvili (29 m) at the ice-snow slope on the right side of the crest of the South go to the first widespread ice-snow couloir on the South ridge. Here turn left and overcome bergshrund (insurance), the steep ice-snow slope wide couloir (stones, insurance) up to the left side of the ice cracked, which is easier to get around on the rocks on the left and the plates ("living" stones, insurance). Above the crack traverse move to the rocks on the right side of the gully. The steep simple plates right side of the couloir 30-40 m up ("live" rocks, insurance) to the site of the Southern bridge crest.

At the site off to the right and 30 meters up the easy rocks wall (hooks) on a broad shelf. On the shelves on a gently sloping slabs, followed by a broad, with a 10-meter section of the narrow ice-snow (eaves) South ridge, then along the scree climb to the top Mardzhanishvili. From climbing camp "Zeskho" 5-6 hours.

31. Mardzhanishvili on the west ridge (combined route 2B, c / d, Fig. 5, 6).

On the pass (37 meters) and turn right on a snowy slope. then by simple rocks come under the Great Western gendarme crest Mardzhanishvili. The steep cliffs simple ("living" stones, hooks), the rise of 30-40 m in the gendarme (the tour). With the policeman sports descent of 35-40 m to the saddle of the West ridge. Next 80-100 m on ordinary destroyed rocks of the western ridge at 15-18-meter rise, overcome it on the plates right side of the West ridge. Next on the easy rocks, a 5 to 6-foot rise and the snow-covered scree West ridge to summit Mardzhanishvili. From climbing camp "Zeskho" 5-6 hours.

33. Zeskho Home on East Ridge (Route combined, 1B c / d, Fig. 5, 7).

From the pass Zeskho (37 m) at 12-15-meter walk down a snowy slope on the plateau Fytnargin. On the left side of the snow plateau (closed cracks), avoiding cracks on the right, come under the north-eastern slopes of the peaks Zeskho.From the pass around 1:00. Here turn left and right, beating a big crack, go to the small plateau at the bottom of the crack of the ice-snow slope on the right side of the East ridge tops Zeskho Home. Overcoming bergshrund (insurance), a steep 60-80-foot ice-snow slope (hooks), the rise of discharges to the left of the ice and snow cornices on a snowy pillow. With a gentle cushion. snow slope to enter the East ridge. Here turn right and easily eroded cliffs wide 200-300-meter-East ridge to summit Zeskho Home. From the pass Zeskho 3-3.5 hours.

34. Zeskho East - Main (Route combined 2B, c / d, Fig. 5, 7).

On the plateau Fytnargin (37 m and 33) come under the north-eastern slopes of the peaks Zeskho East. From the glacier, passing bergshrund (insurance), the steep ice-snow slope 70-80 m up (insurance) until the ice cracks. After passing the crack (hooks), flattens on a wide ice-snow 100-120-meter hill climb to the top Zeskho East. From the pass Zeskho 1.5-2 hours.

With Zeskho East on a wide gentle 60-80-foot snowy peaks of the west ridge. Next 200-250 m along the western ridge (cornices, right discharges) to approach the police. The gendarmes to overcome the forehead on the rocks with a simple 10-15-foot walls of medium difficulty (hooks). Destroyed by a light snow-covered rocks and ice-snow ridge out on a small plateau at the North-eastern slope of the eastern ridge. Zeskho top Home. Hence 50-60 m up and left on the ice-snow slope (avalanches, hooks), which goes below a steep, rocky terminating reset couloir. Then, by simply destroyed rocks rise 8-10 m in the south-east ridge. Here turn

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right. According easily eroded rocks yield of 100-120 m to the East Ridge Zeskho main. A safer climb straight up the steep ice-snow slope without traverse to the left.

Next on the easily eroded rocks of a wide 200-300-meter-East ridge to summit Zeskho Home. East of 4-6 hours.

35. Zeskho Home on South-east ridge (combined route, A. Naumov, 3B c / d, Fig. 5, 7).

Glacier Zeskho (37 m) up. Flow above the left to cross the glacier to the left. The rise of 300-400 m first on a wide snow slope gully (rocks, avalanches) South ridge tops Zeskho Home. To the right of the gully overgrown with grass on Long Island, on the right side is a narrow rocky gully with waterfalls. In the upper part of the island turn right and climb the snowy slope of 80-100 m to the Lower rocky island under the base of the South-eastern ridge Zeskho main.

Hence 100-120 meters up the easy and medium difficulty rocks, alternating with shelves and boards of the Lower Island, and ice-snow scallops go to the cliffs of the Southeast ridge. By simple ("live" rocks) rocks ridge 140-160 m upwards. I and II ups to overcome the forehead for 16-20-meter cliff "moderate difficulty, III left off around the steep ice-snow slope (stones) and get off at the shoulder pad (round).

With the snowy shoulder scallops under the center of the Yellow Wall (key position, the hooks). On a narrow shelf 6-8 m up-right, then traverse a difficult 6-8 m to the left through the overhanging edge of a shelf. On the shelves of 8-10 m up on the plate, followed by 30 m on a simple narrow couloir to the site. On the grounds of 25-30 meters up the steep couloir right ("live" rocks). From him traverse 35-40m up-right on ordinary and intermediate difficulty rocks ("live" rocks) right side of the Southeast ridge. The narrow couloir medium difficulty climb 20-25 meters to the ridge. Then, on the shelves and easy rocks south-eastern ridge under the big redhead gendarme who work around the shelves on the right.

Next on the simple average difficulty destroyed, places, "snow-covered rocks, avoiding the walls and the gendarmes on the right, the rise of 250-300 m in the East ridge. According easily eroded rocks to reach the summit ridge Zeskho Home.From the grassy island 7-9 hours.

36. Zeskho Home on South ridge (combined route, V. Sidorov, 3A, c / d, Fig. 5, 7).

By overgrown grass long rocky island (35 m) up to the end, then on a snowy slope (stones) climb to the saddle of the South ridge tops Zeskho Home. From climbing camp "Zeskho" 3-4 hours.

Turn right on the saddle. On the left side of the snow-covered plain of the South ridge 180-200 m up ("live" rocks, insurance) around I, II ups, III gendarme and get him to the South ridge. Then, by simple rocks beneath the crest of the South IV takeoff, which is overcome by the 50-60-meter high cliffs difficulties left side ("living" stones, insurance).

Then the sharp snow-covered (eaves) 50-meter South ridge. 20-25-V meter off the forehead to overcome the steep destroyed (insurance) rocks. The snow-covered 50-foot crest of the Southern bypass VI gendarme left traverse of 15-20 m on the steep cliffs (insurance) and get him on the snowy ridge of the Southern bridge.

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From the bridge on the steep cliffs of moderate difficulty ("living" stones, hooks) to climb 20 m summit ridge. The snow-covered scree gentle 80-100-foot climb to the summit ridge Zeskho Home. From the saddle 4-5 hours.

37. Zeskho West by West Ridge (route the ice-snow, 1B c / d, Fig. 5, 7).

On a snowy slope (29 m) up to the upper right of the glacier trough Zeskho. Trough of snow on Nekrut 400-500-meter slope up and to the left of the pass Zeskho. From climbing camp "Zeskho" 3-4 hours.

From the pass, going 200-300 meters up on the left side of the plateau, turn right and cross the plateau (closed cracks) towards the base of East Ridge White Stranger. Along the southern slopes of the peaks come to the saddle between the Great Caucasus Range and the White stranger Zeskho. The approach to the col on the left side of the plateau is more dangerous because of its incoherence and closed fractures.

With plato a gentle snow slope bergschrund approach the left side of the crest of the Western Zeskho West.Overcoming the snowy bridge bergshrund (insurance), a steep 200-250-foot ice-snow slope to the right of the left side of the rocky islands of the West Ridge (hooks, right ledge) to climb the summit dome and the snow-covered (cornice) scree west ridge to summit Zeskho Western. From the pass Zeskho 4-4.5 hours.

38. Zeskho Home - West (Route combined, 2A c / d, Fig. 5, 7).

On the main Zeskho (33 m) of 40-50 m descent destroyed by a simple snow-covered rocks of the western ridge to the saddle. Next 40-50 m for acute snow (cornices, insurance) saddle, then 15-20 m on ordinary destroyed rocks and over the snowy ridge saddle (cornice) come under the East ridge of the Western top. 30-40 m from the saddle up on a snowy East Ridge (eaves) and the steep takeoff with a supercharged go out on the rocks (hooks). The steep cliffs with a simple short-walled 40-50-meter-East ridge to summit Zeskho West. From the Main 1.5-2 hours.

39. Zeskho West - Home (combined route 2A c / d, Fig. 5, 7).

With Zeskho West (37 m) of 40-50 meters down the easy rocks East Ridge. Then the difficult transition to snow (cornice hooks), and flattens the steep 30-40-foot snow-East Ridge (cornice) descent to the saddle.

30-40-foot snow (cornice) ridge saddle, on 15-20 meters on ordinary destroyed rocks and 30-40-meter sharp snow (cornice, insurance) ridge saddle to enter the West Ridge Zeskho main. From the saddle by a simple steep snow-covered cliffs and destroyed 40-50-meter-West ridge to summit Zeskho Home. From West 1.5-2 hours.

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Fig. 8.

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40. White Stranger on the South ridge of Nodal policeman GCMR (combined route, Yu Pulentsa, 3B c / d, Fig. 5, 8).

From the plateau to the right of the saddle between the Great Caucasus Range and the White stranger Zeskho (37 m), passing bergshrund, a narrow ice-snow couloir to climb 40 meters (stones, insurance) to the South ridge Nodal policeman GCMR (the tour left shoulder). Here turn right and upwards of 60-80 m in a simple tabular steep destroyed rocks, 15-20 m on the steep cliffs of average difficulty of the wall ("living" stones, bolts), 60 m by a simple destroyed rocks southern ridge. Then the steep cliffs of moderate difficulty (hooks) 20-meter angle (hooks) and 40-meter wide ruined rocky ridge climb to the Nodal gendarme GCMR (round). From the plateau of 4-5 hours.

On a simple snow-covered 80-100-meter North ridge Nodal policeman with a small pull-down access to the shoulder of the bridge leading to the top of the tower. Comb policeman gradually turns to the left, breaking off a glacier Aylaminskomu. With shoulder sports descent 30-40 m in the snow-covered bridge (eaves). On a snowy 20-meter bridge (insurance) come under the summit tower.

From the bridge of 35-40 m up-right on the steep cliffs of moderate difficulty (hooks) on the shelf. Further rise of 40-50 m on the steep cliffs flooded wandering ice (insurance), 3-4-meter chasm-fire, and a gentle snow-wide South to reach the summit ridge of white stranger. Nodal policeman from 3-3.5 hours.

Upgrade option to the bridge. Traverse 20 m to the left to approach couloir to move it (stones, insurance) and the cliffs of moderate difficulty the left side of the couloir SO m up (hooks). Then the gentle wide snowy ridge of the South to reach the summit.

On top of the snow cornice!

41. White Stranger on the South-West Ridge Nodal policeman GCMR (combined route, Sh Dadeshkeliani 4A c / d, Fig. 5.8).

From climbing camp "Zeskho" down the road. For the second bridge turn right at the first right side canyon. After passing the farm on the trail, then the overgrown grass debris to enter the Moraine area at the top (left) part of the left-bank end moraine stranger. Source bivouac. From climbing camp "Zeskho" 2-2.5 hours.

On the moraine sites (out of 3-4 hours in the morning), the rise of 150-200 m traverse to the right on the snow and firn slopes of the main couloir Black Stranger. Then traverse up and right along the ice-snow slope to the left of the central valley and mutton foreheads lying above them glacier ice discharge to the exit on the left side of the upper plateau of the glacier stranger. On the left side of the broken ice along the southern slopes of the Great Caucasus Range come under the rocky island on the right side of the South Face Nodal policeman GCMR. From the original bivouac 4-6 hours.

Overcoming bergshrund left the island, to carry out cross-arms over it to the left. On the ice-snow slope (avalanches, rocks) come under the South-Western edge Nodal policeman. Hence 120-150 meters up the cliffs of moderate difficulty ("living" stones) left, then the right side of the ribs on the shelf. From the shelf to the left through a narrow ice couloir (stones), followed by 80 m along the cliffs above the average difficulty with a 30-meter wall of a difficult climb to the area south-west edge of the Lower rock belt. At the camp site. From burgshrunda 3-on

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hours. From a platform of 40-foot snow scallops. 300-340 m further up the steep, medium difficulty, with short walls above average difficulty, rocks south-western edge ("living" stones) on a platform below the top off Nodal policeman. At the camp site. From the original bivouac 8-10 hours.

From a platform on the steep ice-snow slope, bypassing a large detached stone to the right, the rise of 40 m below the wall. The cliffs above average difficulty the 60-meter wall, followed by 60-meter cliffs of moderate difficulty, and 40-meter wide mere Southwest ridge climb to the Nodal gendarme. From a camp on the South edge of 2-3 hours. Next 40 m.

42. White Stranger on the South West edge of the gendarme (combined route, S. Ginsburg, 4A c / d, Fig. 5, 8).

From the glacier Stranger (41 meters), breaking bergshrund under the southern walls of the Nodal policeman GCMR bergschrund traverse over to the left (avalanches, rocks), go to the ledge left side of the base edge of the South West policeman. From the moraine areas 4-6 hours.

From the ledge on the left side of the Southern edge of 70-80 meters up the simple and intermediate difficulty snow-covered rocks ("live" rocks). Then, on the rocks above the average difficulty 40-meter steep angle and 80 m along the smoothed slabs climb a snowy ridge on the southern edge. On the right side edge area. Bivouac. From the original bivouac 6-8 hours.

Next 40 m up the ice-snow (cornice) Southern edge, 240-260 m on the steep, medium difficulty, rocks ("live" rocks) and the Southern edge of 200-240-foot ice-snow with rocky outcrops on the Southern edge of the exit West gendarme. On the gendarme turn right and go down the gentle crest of 80-90 m in the saddle (cornice), on which come under the rise of the West ridge Nodal policeman GCMR. Bivouac. From the previous bivouac 5-6 hours.

60-70 m from the saddle up the steep ice-snow slope on the left and implicit vertical angle above average difficulty. Then 15-20 m snow-covered corner-couloir climb up the ridge. The steep snow-covered 60-70-meter cliffs of moderate difficulty and simple rocks with short walls to climb the crest of the Western Hub gendarme. From jumpers 2-3 hours.Next 40 m.

43. White Stranger on the South edge of the Central West policeman ridge (combined route, Kornienko, 4B * c / d, Fig. 5, 8).

From the glacier Stranger (41 meters) from the source to the moraine bivouac sites, beating bergshrund right out of the rocks of the Southern edge of the Central policeman GCMR and smoothed rocks traverse 80 m to the left to enter the couloir above bergschrund. On the right side of a steep snow-ice couloir (stones) 120-150m up. Then turn right and go up 20 meters on the wall above the average difficulty with cleft. Next 80-100 m up on the rocks of moderate difficulty left edge of the South on its site. From the original bivouac 4-6 hours. Here turn left and up the steep cliffs of the Southern edge of moderate difficulty walking gendarme on a difficult 10-12-meter-high wall to enter the site under a wall with black streaks. At the camp site. From the original bivouac 6-8 hours.

From a platform for wide flange 50-80 m to the left and face off against a wall, 40 meters up on the plates above the average difficulty of the angle. Within 100 - 120 m along the cliffs of moderate difficulty up-right to the site of the Southern edge. On the platform on the right side

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of the rib, then falls to the left, up 30-40 m vertical angle above average difficulty. 100-120 m further up and left on a snowy slope (avalanches) and easy rocks on the southern edge of the output. Hence the up-right on the snow-covered rocks of the Southern edge of a wide, then up and left on the scree gully on the edge above the gendarme "Finger". Further along the edges of simple rocks, avoiding the wall on the right, come off at the vertex of the Central policeman. The cliffs of moderate difficulty policeman left out on the saddle of Great Caucasus Range.

On the saddle off to the right and 70 meters up on the corner above the average difficulty from easy 3-4-meter wall of Central gendarme. With the gendarme two rappels to 40 m, followed by a simple walk down the rocks to the platform jumper GCMR toward the White Stranger. At the camp site. From the previous bivouac 6-8 hours.

From a platform for ice-snow, sometimes narrow (eaves) GCMR reach the crest of the West gendarme. From the place of bivouac 1.5 - 3 hours. Next m 42.

44. White Stranger on the west ridge Nodal policeman GCMR (combined route, V. Nedokladova, 3B c / d, Fig. 5, 8).

From climbing camp "Zeskho" down the road gorge. For the second bridge turn right at the farm and on the road around the right (above) settlement Zeskho. Crossing the South ridge of the Black Stranger, go down into the side canyon Tsurungal, and turning to the right, move the stream and climb the trail left side of the gorge. Front of the glacier, turning to the right, go to the stream and reach the right bank moraine.

On the moraine, then traverse on scree slopes (stones) to climb to the upper plateau of the glacier strongly ripped Tsurungal. On the moraine of the glacier to break camp. From climbing camp "Zeskho" 5-6 hours.

From the bivouac on the right side of the glacier to come under the right saddle GCMR - Pass Tsurungal. From the glacier, passing bergshrund, 400-500 m up the ice-snow slope (rocks, avalanches), which goes behind the scenes. Then 80-100 m in a simple, on 30 - 40 m steep heavily destroyed rocks of moderate difficulty (stones, "living" stones, insurance) to the pass Tsurungal (eaves), from the glacier 3-5 hours.

From the pass the 150-200 m down-right on the steep ice-snow slope between the rocks in the upper small circus.Further down the riven, sometimes steep side of the glacier glacier Ailama. Here turn right and on the right side of the glacier to enter the Aylaminskie sites located on the moraine at the confluence of its East and West branches. Source bivouac. From the pass 2-3 hours.

With a camp up the left side of the western branch of the glacier. Going round the broad base of the North ridge of the Small Fytnargina, move to the northern branch of the glacier. Here turn left and go up the torn northern branch under the north-western slopes of the top White Stranger. 600-700 m further up the steep riven ice-snow slope of the glacier along the western slopes of the northern crest of the White Stranger (rocks, avalanches). Then, breaking bergshrund, a steep 70-80-foot ice-snow slope (hooks) to climb the snowy saddle GCMR (cornice) at West Ridge Nodal policeman. From the original bivouac 4-8 hours. Next m 42.

45. White Stranger on the North ridge (combined route 2B, c / d, Fig. 5, 8).

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From the plateau (37 meters), surpassing the right East Ridge White Stranger, a small rise in the North-west Circus Western branch of the glacier, and it will come under the broad saddle that connects the White Stranger and Fytnargin.From the pass Zeskho 1.5-2 hours. On the plateau, breaking bergshrund in the most convenient place on steep snow 20-70-meter hill to go to the saddle (eaves). Turn left on the saddle and the gentle, sometimes sharp (eaves) 300-350-meter North ridge, bypassing the left on the steep ice-snow slopes with rocky outcrops (avalanches, insurance) are two rocky gendarme out on a narrow bridge under the top off.

From the bridge the steep narrow, then wide 50-60-foot ice-snow (cornices, insurance) North ridge come under the 40-meter-high snow-covered rocky rise. Rise get left on the steep ice-snow slope (avalanches, ice discharge at the upper left, hooks). Then flatten the steep wide ice-snow North ridge (cornices get on top of White Stranger. Plateau from 3-5 hours.

46. White Stranger at East Ridge (Route combined, V. Sabanidze 3A c / d, Fig. 5, 8).

From the plateau (37 m) on the steep ice-snow, the outputs of the destroyed rocks of moderate difficulty, I take off the crest of the East, the rise of 150-200 m (hooks) of the lower arm. Right ice discharges. Next 200-250 m on a simple ice-snow East Ridge (eaves) on Snow gendarme. With his short descent to the saddle. Next, the gentle, then a steep 50-60-foot ice-snow and icy takeoff II 20-40-meter cliffs of moderate difficulty (cornice hooks) to East gendarme.

With the policeman on the snowy East Ridge (eaves) to the saddle and the steep 50-60-foot ice-snow (hooks) III takeoff, then by a simple snow-covered rocks and scree climb to the top of White Stranger. From the plateau of 5-7 hours.

47. White Stranger in the southeast by the couloir (combined route, B. Trapeznikova, 3A, c / d, Fig. 5, 8).

From the plateau (37 m), passing on the snow bridge bergshrund, the steep narrow ice-snow couloir (rocks, avalanches, hooks) 250-300 m up to the bridge (cornice) between the white stranger and units GCMR policeman. From the plateau of 1.5-2 hours. Next 40 m.

48. White Stranger on East Buttress Nodal policeman GCMR (combined route, 4A * c / d, Fig. 5, 8).

From the plateau (37 meters), breaking the left side of the center of the ice-snow slope under the eastern wall of the Nodal policeman bergshrund, 100-120 m up-right on the ice-snow slope (stones, insurance) and the snow-covered boards go up and to the right on area of the Eastern buttress Nodal policeman.

From a platform up the steep cliffs of moderate difficulty. Then, on a snowy scallops go under the wall. Hence 15-20 m right on the steep cliffs of moderate difficulty (hooks) to the corner. High on the cliffs, sometimes above average difficulty vertical angle 60 - 80 m up ("live" rocks, hooks) on the shelf. From the ledge 20 m up on the rocks of moderate difficulty, followed by 40 m by simply destroyed rocks beneath the wall, which left around (hooks), and the steep snow-covered rocks ("live" rocks, insurance) to climb the Nodal gendarme. From the plateau of 4-5 hours. Next 40 m.

49. White Stranger on the east wall Nodal policeman GCMR (combined route, A. Naumov, 4A c / d, Fig. 5, 8).

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From the plateau (37 meters), breaking the left side of the bergshrund, 100-120 m up in the middle of the ice-snow slope (stones, insurance), East wall Nodal policeman. Further up the strong erosion of the middle, sometimes above average difficulty steep cliffs of the narrow gully on the shelf. On the shelves in the vertical narrow icy, above average difficulty, 30-40-foot couloir (stones, "living" stones, bolts), and the steep, above average difficulty, smoothed, icy 30-40-meter slab, and then on the corner of the plate ("living" stones) up to Nodal gendarme At a small snowy route is dangerous rockfalls! Next 40 m.

50. Stranger White - Black (combined route, G. Gulbani, 4B c / d, Fig. 5, 8).

With the White Stranger (45 or 46 meters) down by 100-120 m wide snow-covered ridge of the South. Then downhill racing 3-4 m on the rock wall to the left and again at 40-60 m icy rocks with ice portions of the left side of the South-western ridge of the sports 30-40 m descent to the bridge at Center Stage gendarme GCMR. After passing the 20-meter snow jumper (eaves), 10-12-meter-high rock wall above average difficulty, followed by 30-40-meter cliffs of moderate difficulty, then along the crest of a simple snow-covered rocks to enter the Hub gendarme.

With Nodal policeman 120-150 m down on a simple narrow icy and snow-covered ("live" rocks) South-western ridge with maillon rapide 40 m on the right side of the West ridge with overhang. Next on the ice-snow slope descent to the saddle (cornice) GKH. From the White Stranger 4-5 hours.

With the saddle on a simple ice-snow (eaves) GCMR rise 80-90 m in the West gendarme. Next on the ice-snow GCMR with narrow snow bridges and three ups (eaves), I passed the gendarme to enter the site under central gendarme.Bivouac. From the White Stranger 7-9 hours.

From under the gendarme descent 50-60 m right on the steep ice-snow slope. Below the ice cracks traverse around 40-50 m Central gendarme. Behind him rise 50 - 60 m to the crest of Great Caucasus Range. Next 200-250 m along the snow (eaves) GCMR ridge and a steep 60-80-foot takeoff to enter the East gendarme. With the policeman on 200-250-foot snow GCMR (eaves), having II and III small snow gendarmes come under vertex takeoff. 150-200-foot ice-snow takeoff East Ridge climb to the top of Black Stranger. From the bivouac under the Central policeman 4-8 hours.

51. Fytnargin on the west ridge (combined route, Yu Porohnya 3A c / d, Fig. 5, 8)

The Northwest Plateau circus (45 m) wide approach under the ice-snow slopes of the Western saddle ridge Fytnargina.From the pass Zeskho 1.5-2 hours. On the plateau, following the left side of the rocks, go bergshrund and ice-snow slope rising 200-250 m (avalanches, insurance) on the right side of the saddle western ridge Fytnargina. From the plateau of about 1 hour.

Here I turn to the right 40 meters up the easy rocks beneath the crest of the West I gendarme who left and traverse around him climb the steep cliffs of moderate difficulty ("live," rocks, hooks) to the West Ridge. Further 200 m along the crest of a simple destroyed rocks under the gendarme II (key position).

On the rocks of average difficulty of the West ridge of 40-45 m up (hooks) to the gendarme II. With his 3-4 m down to the bridge from which around 15-20 m III policeman on a shelf on the left. Then the steep icy or fireplace to the left of him on the smooth slabs of medium

34

difficulty ("living" stones, hooks), the rise of 30 m on the West Ridge III policeman.Next by simply breaking down a snow-covered (eaves), Isle of West Ridge, overcoming IV gendarme in his forehead, come on ordinary snow-covered rocks below the top off.

According prostonu narrow 30-meter ice-snow west ridge, then up a steep 50-60-foot ice-snow north face (insurance), and a steep rise simple 8-10-meter cliffs to reach the summit Fytnargin. From the plateau of 6-8 hours.

52. Fytnargin from the south along the western ridge of the couloir (combined route, V. Laperashvili 3A c / d, Fig. 5, 8).

From the plateau (37 m) up and to the right under the left side of the wide ice-snow slope-gully coming down from the crest of the Western Fytnargina. Further, beating numerous cracks on the left bottom of the ice takeoff, climb 200-300 meters on the left side of the gentle slope of the plateau. Overcoming bergshrund on the left side of a steep wide ice-snow couloir, adhering to the rocks of the South West buttress crest (on the right with the top of the tower stones), 300-350 m up (avalanches, top hooks) to the bridge of the West ridge. Next m 51. From the plateau of 3-5 hours.

53. Fytnargin the South Buttress East Ridge (Route combined, V. Laperashvili 3A k / m Figure 5, 8).

From the pass Zeskho (37 m) to cross Fytnarginskoe plateau (closed cracks, insurance) and come under the southern slopes of the Fytnargina. From the plateau on which dismembered the wide ice-snow slope between two large rocky islands located at the southern slopes of East Ridge, walk right under the first narrow ice-snow couloir wide wall buttress the South East Ridge. Right at the entrance to the couloir separate rock.

On the left side of a steep narrow ice-snow couloir 80-70 m up (stones, insurance), then to the left and right edges of simple rocks rise of 250-300 m in the crumbling regiment (the tour), the triangular policeman.

The gendarme get on the shelf on the left. Behind him on the 8-10-meter-high wall of medium difficulty (hooks) to reach a broad implicit South Buttress. Hence 30-40 meters up the steep destroyed rocks (insurance), then simply destroyed and snow (eaves) rocks, 15-20-meter-sharp ice-snow (cornice) jumper, followed by 40-50 m simple destroyed rocks under off East Ridge. The steep, medium difficulty, rocks 40-50-meter take-off ("living" stones, hooks), followed by 60-80-foot ice-snow slope to enter the East ridge. From the plateau of 4-5 hours. Next m 55.

54. Fytnargin from the south along the crest of the East Couloir (combined route 2B, c / d, Fig. 5, 8).

From the plateau (53 meters), beating bergshrund right, to the left of the big rock island right, walk on the ice-snow slope under the rock walls of the island-buttress Fytnargina and under him on the ice-snow slope (stones) to the left to a wide couloir with many rocky islands . On the ice-snow slope on the right side of the gully 300-350 m wide up (insurance), then up and right to the saddle of the buttress. From the saddle on the ice-snow slope on the right side of the island, buttress, rolling in the couloir, the rise of 100-140 m (avalanches, hooks) to the East Ridge. From the plateau of 4-5 hours. Next m 55,

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55. Fytnargin on East Ridge (Route combined, 2A c / d, Fig. 5, 8).

From the pass Sharivtsek East (18 m) at the ice-snow slope down to the Eastern branch of the snowy plateau glacier Fytnargin. From here cross the plateau of the glacier to the left (closed cracks, insurance) and go to the right side of the glacier Peremetnoe glacier descending from the base of East Ridge Fytnargina, left yuzhnoyu Nameless ridge tops. With the rise of the plateau 100-120 m along the ice-snow slope to the right of the crest of the South unnamed peak. Then turn left and up the steep narrow ice-snow couloir simple destroyed rocks 40-60 m up (insurance) on the bridge of the South ridge. From the bridge go left on a steep heavily torn Peremetnoe glacier and through it, avoiding cracks - on a snowy plateau on the right side of the base of the Eastern ridge Fytnargina. On the plateau (closed cracks) along the northern slopes of East Ridge, beating him lying on the ice discharges and passed bergshrund, climb the steep ice-snow 120-150-foot hill to the East Ridge. The long, broad, sometimes narrow, gently sloping snow (eaves), the outputs of the lungs destroyed rocks, followed by 40-50-meter narrow steep snow (insurance) East Ridge exit below the top of the north slope. Hence 50-60 meters up the steep ice-snow slope (hooks), followed by 8-10-meter steep snow-covered cliffs destroyed (insurance) to ascend to the top of Fytnargin. East of the pass Sharivtsek 7-9 hours.

BLACK STRANGER

ЧЕРНАЯНЕЗНАКОМКА

Zeskho from the village to the north rises a grassy ridge - Southern crest of the Black Stranger (4100 m), the top of the central valley Zeskho located in the Great Caucasus Range between Tsurungalom Zeskho to the west and the east. On the north side of the Black Stranger washes Aylaminsky glacier flowing down the gorge Dyhsu to which descends North-ridge slope. Under its south-eastern slopes lies a small glacier stranger, and along the western slopes of the southern ridge from the top of the tower on the south-west flows torn southern glacier.

56. Black Stranger on the South East edge of the gendarme, 4B c / d (V. Osminin, P. Rapoport, S. Rafiq August 31 - September 3, 1980).

57. Black Stranger on the Main and East Ridge couloir, 4A * c / d (V. Sabanidze, A. Gazdeliani August 12, 1978.)

58. Black Stranger on the southeast ridge, 4B c / d, (D. Leontiev, V. Benkin, G. Kosenkov Ovsyannikov, 11-13 August 1965).

59. Black Stranger on the South ridge, 4A c / d (L. Ahvlediani, 3. Ahvlediani, D. Gugava, November 8, 1960).

60. Black Stranger on the west ridge, 3B c / d (V. Nedokladov, A. Berdpchevsky, A. Kolesnikov, Olkhovskiy, August 15, 1936).

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Fig. 9.

56. Black Stranger on the South East edge of the gendarme (combined route, V. Osminin, 4B c / d, Fig. 5, 9).

From the glacier Stranger (41 meters) from the source to the moraine bivouac sites out on the rocks on the right side of the lower edge of the triangle of the South East and the gendarme for them to climb the implicit right ridge. According to a simple and moderate difficulty

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("live" rocks) rocks crest of the Southern edge of 350-400 m up to the third slanting snow-covered shelf under the wall I take off. Under the wall and to the left and, after a gendarme "Prism" upwards of 100 - 110 m in average and above average difficulty steep cliffs corner ("live" rocks), 30 m on the plate, followed by 50 m along the wall hard on the gendarme-breakaway. With the policeman rappelling 20 meters to the bridge, from which 40 m up the hard wall, 60 meters down a narrow chimney difficult with traffic jams ("living" stones), followed by 80 m along the cliffs above the average difficulty of a steep gully and climb the wall to the site I take-off. At the camp site.From the original bivouac 10-12 hours.

From a platform out under II takeoff and in his left side 100-120 meters up the steep slabs above average difficulty on a sloping shelf ("live" rocks). Then 50-60 m along the difficult stitch ("live" rocks) and destroyed steep cliffs rise on average difficulty II takeoff.

Next on the simple destroyed rocks under the following take-off. The steep, monolithic, medium difficulty 60-80-meter cliffs rise, then simply destroyed rocks and up to 150-200 East gendarme East Ridge Black Stranger in the Great Caucasus Range.

With the policeman left, and 80-100 m down on the snowy ridge of Great Caucasus Range (eaves) to the saddle.Bivouac on the saddle. From a camp on the South edge of 10-12 hours. Next 50 m.

57. Black Stranger on the Main and East Ridge couloir (combined route, V. Sabanidze, 4A * c / d, Fig. 5, 9).

On the moraine sites (41 m) up-right (exit at 2-3 AM) on a snowy slope, rolling in the main couloir Black Stranger. Then, breaking bergshrund, the steep ice-snow couloir to the Chief (rocks, avalanches) 800-1000 m up to the place of its bifurcation. Hence 300-350 meters up on the right, the steep ice-snow couloir until his abrupt narrowing. Next 100-120 meters straight up the narrow vertical ice-snow couloir or difficult, suffused wandering ice cliffs of his right hand to the East Ridge of Great Caucasus Range. From the moraine areas 8-14 hours. Couloir dangerous rockfalls. Here turn left and simple snow-covered cliffs rise of East ridge to summit Black Stranger.

58. Black Stranger on the southeast ridge (combined route, G. Leontiev, 4B c / d, Fig. 5, 9).

On the moraine sites (41 m) of 150-200 m up-right (exit at 2-3 AM) in the snow and firn slopes, rolling in the main couloir Black Stranger. 300-400 m further up the steep ice-snow couloir to the Chief (rocks, avalanches), passing or avoiding mutton foreheads on the ice cracks.

Then to the left and up the steep narrow left-ice-snow couloir (avalanches, rocks) or to the left on the rocks above the average difficulty of 150-200 m ascent to the south-east edge of the Black Stranger. Here, turn right and at the prime rocky snow-covered south-eastern edge out the snow bridge, and from it a rocky rise. Under the take-off to the left into a narrow gully. The steep ice-snow narrow couloir 100-120 m up to the turn to the right. Here, turn right and up 20 meters above the medium difficulty wall of the left side of the Southeast edge, 40 m along the ice-snow slope. Next 25-30 m along an icy corner, climb the couloir on the shelf ("live" rocks