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Some refer to Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren as the Gilbert and

George of fashion, a comparison that goes beyond their twinned,bespectacled appearance. Since Viktor & Rolf began makingclothes in 1993 after graduating from the Netherlands' ArnhemAcademy of Art and Design, they have endeavored to blur theline between art and fashion. The Dutch duo's runwaypresentations are typically high on concept, showmanship, andwit. And like all good artists they can infuriate as well as delight.A few (out of many) examples of their unusual approach: anentirely topsy-turvy show with upside-down dresses and an ear-splitting backwards soundtrack, a provocative all-black show(including the models' faces), and a presentation featuring, on a

revolving turntable, a single model who was layered in look afterlook like a Russian doll.

VIKTOR & ROLF

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Though early on they were known for wowing the fashion pressbut not selling a stitch, Horsting and Snoeren have since tappedinto their commercial potential. They made a move from hautecouture to ready-to-wear in 2000, launched a perfume calledFlowerbomb (and packaged it in a grenade-shaped bottle) in2004, drew frenzied crowds for their collaboration with fast-fashion retailer H&M in 2006, and opened a boutique on the Via

Sant'Andrea in Milan. Earlier this year the pair sold a controllingstake of its business to Diesel owner Renzo Rosso. "We havehigh ambitions," Snoeren commented to The New York Times,which also reported their plans to open five more boutiqueswithin the next few years. Nevertheless, their penchant for

surrealism hasn't diminished: Their 15-year retrospective atLondon's Barbican Art Gallery, called The House of Viktor &Rolf, consisted of a gigantic dollhouse populated by 55 dolls,each wearing a Viktor & Rolf look re-created in miniature.

VIKTOR & ROLF

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Where would Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren be without their dolls? Dolls

have inspired so much of their work as fashion designers that it wouldprobably be sheer bliss for someone like Sigmund Freud to untangle the skeinsthat link them with Viktor & Rolf's concept of womanhood. But he'd never beable to accuse the duo of a lack of self-awareness. Yes, their new collectionwas inspired by dollsthis time, the porcelain-faced Victorian varietybut itwas also inspired by Freud, who famously described the sexual life of an adult

woman as "a dark continent." It was precisely that secretive quality that suck inthe designers.

From a business standpoint, that kind of studied, dressy oddness is whatthey feel their customers look to them for. From a creative angle, it gave thedesigners carte blanche to engage in one of their favorite pursuits: toying with

silhouettes. They exploded and stretched and puffed and shrunk and draped.They fringed and ruffled, too. The result looked here and there like The-Magnificent-Ambersons-Going-Dutch, especially when velvet gigot sleevesand a cape of shaved rabbit fur put in an appearance

PRE FALL 2012

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A print of Victorian ladies could have been mug shots of Freud'spatientsor Jack the Ripper's victims. And Viktor & Rolf Soir, the duo'snew eveningwear capsule collection, was also very much in the full-moon, funereal vein that was so accurately captured in the look book.

Still, Snoeren insisted that what they stand for as designers is"unexpected elegance," and there were enough instances of that withthese clothes that you can see why they keep showing up on redcarpets. A padded gazar waistcoat stays in the mind. And somethingelse Freud might have to concedethere's always a kernel of humorsomewhere with Viktor & Rolf. The Victorian buttoned boot came with a

dominatrix heel. Roll on, full moon.

VIKTOR & ROLF

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Prasoon Parashar

Techniques- Quilting on cape

Materials- patent leather, cottontwill, poly silk.

Process- quilting done using thinlayer of foam around 1/4th inch

thickness and sewn.

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Prasoon Parashar

Techniques- Swarovski crystals

overlay on the shirt, jacket lapel fabricreplaced by patent leather and quilted.

Materials- patent leather, felt, cottontwill, blended cotton.

Process- Quilting done using thin layer offoam around 1/4th inch thickness andsewn. Swarovski crystals beaded and

overlaid using heat locking from theback of the fabric.

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Prasoon Parashar

Techniques- Digital printing on the shirt.Varnished fleece on the jacket.

Materials- patent leather, cotton twill,poly silk. Fleece.

Process- digital printing done usingcomputer aided design techniques onthe shirt. fleece varnished using to createa condensed fabric on the jacket.

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Techniques- Braiding of the fabricon the shirt sleeve.

Materials- cotton twill, poly silk.

Process- Braiding done by twistingthe fabrics creating three loops

interlaced together in a way to carrythe edge further.

After braiding stitched on the shirtsleeve.

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Prasoon Parashar

Techniques- burning out the fabricindustrial method.

Materials- velvet, poly silk.

Process- burned using heat givento the fabric to take the warp out ofit.

paneled and stitched

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Prasoon Parashar

S/S 2012 RTW

It was blazing hot at Viktor & Rolf. Good thing they got the red face paint

idea out of the way last season. Instead, the models wore a thick set ofsynthetic pink lashesthey were baby dolls, not knights. Dolls' clothesinformed the girlish silhouettes, the stiff nature of the fabrics, the oversizelace prints, and the blown-up proportions of the stitching that held theclothes together. The naive quality of the lacing, as if it had been done byseamstress giants, worked on some of the pieces, including a bra top and a

matching skirt as well as an A-line shift. Ultimately, though, it overpoweredthe show's prettier, simpler moments, such as the pair of metallic lavenderlace dresses, one just below the knee and the other long to the floor. Thedesigners seemed to let their concept get in the way of what grown-upwomen might actually want to wear.

The models made their entrances and exits though the parted yards-long"skirts" of the singers of the pop duo Brigitte, who performed on a platformhigh above the runway. Horsting and Snoeren get points for that clever setupthis season, but not for too much else.

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Prasoon Parashar

Techniques- Eyeleting and lacedthrough it the fabric. Poly wrap effect

on the lace fabric and embossed.

Materials- cotton twill, cotton lace.Lace fabric.

Process- Eyeleting done by

punching chisels and fixing eyeletsto it

fabric laced through the eyelets input and pull through manner.

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Prasoon Parashar

Techniques- Eyeleting, fabric lacedthrough it the fabric, felted silk andvarnished, Uneven box pleats.

Materials- felted silk and varnished,cotton lace.

Process- Eyeleting done by punchingchisels and fixing eyelets to it

fabric laced through the eyelets in putand pull through manner.

uneven box pleats fixed by eyelets

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Techniques- Eyeleting, fabric laced

through it the fabric, frilled laced 1/4th

inch length, ladder look type lacestitched on the princess panels

Materials- poly silk, cotton lace.

Process- Eyeleting done by punchingchisels and fixing eyelets to it

fabric laced through the eyelets in putand pull through manner.

frill lace stitched to the sleeves hemlines.

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Techniques- cotton net sandwiched

between the two layers of fabric,katagami technique.

Materials- poly silk, silk felt, cottonnet, piping.

Process- cotton net sandwichedbetween the two layers of fabric andpiping done.

fabric cut with lasers or stenciled(katagami)

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Prasoon Parashar

Techniques- Eyeleting, fabriclaced through it the fabric,Swarovski crystals fixed to thefabric.

Materials- poly silk, cotton lace.

Process- Eyeleting done bypunching chisels and fixing eyeletsto it

fabric laced through the eyelets input and pull through manner.

crystals sewn to the surface indiamond shape.

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The idea Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren had for Springto riff on a man's shirtwasa simple one, and timely, too, given all the recent talk about classic sportswear. What the

Dutch duo put on the runway, however, was a collection of quite theatrical clothes. Nosurprise there, perhaps. It started with a banker's striped button-down, only it had beenturned into a short shirtdress made from strips of embroidered blue ribbons withcount'emfour collars and four sets of cuffs skipping up the arms. And it ended with awedding gown that spanned the width of the runway, its skirts made from shirt tails andthe bodice from starchy pearl-studded collars sticking out every which way, including uppast the model's earlobes.

There's a bridezilla joke in there somewhere, but we'll refrain from making it becauseother staples of a man's wardrobe also got the V&R treatment, and not always with suchover-the-top results. A pair of shirtdresses, one side fitted, the other softly draping offthe shoulder, could believably make the leap from catwalk to street. And there will besome clamoring among the pop-star set for poufy dresses inset with lace at the waist,down the side of one torso, or on the sleeves.

But the look that had everyone talking was an understated white shirt cropped at thewaist with its tails extending into a train. It was paired with plain black pants, and it'dactually make a great wedding outfit for the kind of bride who buys Viktor & Rolf'scommercial collection not for its camp humor, but for its sharp tailoring. It made you wishthey'd put more of the latter on the runway today.

S/S 2011 RTW

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Prasoon Parashar

Techniques- silk frills stitched to the

surface.

Materials- pure silk, blended cottonfabric.

Process- silk frills stitched in the

center of the fabric and placed invertical manner.

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Prasoon Parashar

Techniques- silk frills stitched to thesurface. Couching on the edge.

Materials- pure silk, blended cottonfabric, varnished velvet.

Process- silk frills stitched in the

center of the fabric and placed invertical manner.

Velvet varnished

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Prasoon Parashar

Techniques- varnished velvet surface.Couching on the edge.

Materials- organza, blended cottonfabric, varnished velvet.

Process- silk frills stitched in the centerof the fabric and placed in verticalmanner.

Velvet varnished

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Prasoon Parashar

Techniques- fabric petals stitched

with the fabric

Materials- pure silk, blended cottonfabric, net.Process- small fabric petals stitchedon the net fabric.

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Techniques- Swarovski crystals fusedon the leather, cut out work.

Materials- pure cotton, leather,Swarovski crystals.

Process- Swarovski crystals beadedand overlaid using heat locking from theback of the leather.

laser cut of the leather.

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Prasoon Parashar

A drawbridge came down and we were in the Middle Ages at Viktor & Rolf.The Dutch designers took cues from knights' armor this season.

The show unfolded as a joust between black and ecru, with many of theoutfits coming down the runway twice, once in each color. Clever, but notnecessarily all that creative. The models' faces were painted blood red, butthe stiff fabrics (felted wool, sculptural leather) looked practically rapier proof.No real blood was spilled, although it might've been if the round frills that

decorated the shoulders and the ruffles that stood up several inches from thearm seams of the jackets had been actual metal. Playing damsel to theknights in shining armor were a couple of pretty sweaters with rose intarsia's.These were worn with kiltlike pleated skirts and unstructured dresses thatlooked like crusaders' flags.

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are consummate tailors. Strip these clothesof the theme-y trappings and you could just about make that out.

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Techniques- cut and stitch knife

pleated wool felt.

Materials- wool felt.

Process- the felt fabric has been cutand stitch to make the steps like

effect.

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Prasoon Parashar

Techniques- cut, stitch andspread, quilting.

Materials- wool felt.

Process- The felt fabric has beencut, stitched and spread to makethe circular like effect.

Quilting done using thin layer offoam around 1/4th inch thickness

and sewn.

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Techniques- appliqu, chain stitch.

Materials- viscose single jersey,interlocked double jersey, blendedcotton.

Process- Fabric rose cut out stitchedon the fabric.

chain stitches to weld the edge.

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Techniques- wide cut frills

Materials- viscose single jersey,blended cotton fabric.

Process- Fabric pieces cut wide andstitched on the surface of the shirt.

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Techniques- wide cut frills, Swarovskicrystal beads sticked on some of thefrills.

Materials- Swarovski crystals, poly silk.

Process- Fabric pieces cut wide andstitched on the surface of the shirt.

Swarovski crystals beads sticked to thepanels using the heat set techniques.

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Prasoon Parashar

Bibliography

www.viktor&rolf.com

www.style.com

www.google/images.co.in

http://rackreader.blogspot.in/2010/02/brand-profile-viktor-and-rolf_15.htm

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PRASOON PARASHAR

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