we get people flying pt-19 giant scale 1.20 arf · semi-scale aircraft suited for the intermediate...

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

WE GET PEOPLE FLYING

TMTM

• 90% pre-built• IMAA Giant Scale legal• Pre-covered in genuine UltraCote®, featuring full scale trim scheme• Pre-finished fiberglass cowl• Gas or glow option

PT-19Giant Scale 1.20 ARF

Specifications:

Wingspan: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82" / 208.3 cmLength: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63.5" / 161.3 cmWing Area: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1010 sq. in. / 6516.5 sq. cm.Weight (Approx.): . . . . . . . . . . . 13–16 lbs. / 5896–7257 gramsRecommended Engines: 1.08–1.20 2-Stroke

1.20–1.50 4-StrokeZenoah G23 Gas or Glow

UltraCote®is a registered trademark of Carl Goldberg Models, Inc.

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Table of Contents

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Warning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Additional Equipment Required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Parts Needed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Tools and Supplies Needed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Contents of Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Section 1: Hinging the Ailerons. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Section 4: Installing the Aileron Linkages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Section 5: Mounting the Wing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Section 6: Installing the Tail (Vertical Fin and Horizontal Stabilizer) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Section 7: Hinging the Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevators . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Section 8: Hinging the Rudder and Installing the Tail Wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Section 9: Installing the Control Horns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Section 10: Installing the Main Landing Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Section 11: Installing the Engine (2- or 4-Cycle) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Section 12: Installing the Engine (Gas Option) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Section 13: Assembling and Installing the Fuel Tank (Glow/Gas) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Section 14: Installing the Radio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

Section 15: Installing the Control Linkages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

Section 16: Attaching the Cowling. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

Section 17: Attaching the Windscreens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

Section 18: Application of Decals and Scale Detailing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49

Section 19: Control Throw Recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

Section 20: Balancing the PT-19 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

Pre-Flight Check. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

Pre-Flight at the Field . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55

AMA Safety Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

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IntroductionCongratulations on your purchase of one of the finest giant scale ARFs to be produced! The Hangar 9 Fairchild PT-19 trainer is asemi-scale aircraft suited for the intermediate to advanced level flyers and modelers. Although this is an ARF (Almost -Ready-to-Fly)kit, it does have some construction features that can be challenging for the new modeler. If you encounter difficulty in any construc-tion sequence, please feel free to contact one of our technicians—we stand ready to provide any assistance we can concerning theconstruction of your PT-19. You can contact us at:

Horizon Hobby Distributors4105 Fieldstone RoadChampaign, IL 61822(217) 355-9511www.horizonhobby.com

The Fairchild PT-19A, used as the model for this kit, was the first of a family of primary trainers used by the then United States Army AirCorps. Numerous variations were to come, as were similar aircraft from Ryan and other small aircraft manufacturers during the pre-WorldWar II era. This is a “giant scale” model, however the experienced modeler has in this kit the basic components that will allow for numer-ous variations. If you decide to make such a variation, we would be very interested in learning about your effort. Remember, any changesin the basic parameters of the kit could result in a model that does not perform as this kit has been designed to do. Our research anddevelopment staff have built numerous prototypes leading up to this production version. Please be sure to read Section 20 on Balancingthe Aircraft. We believe this information is very important for the modeler to ensure the aircraft is a safe and satisfactory flyer.

WarningAn R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused it can cause serious bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in open areas, preferablyAMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all instructions included with your radio and engine.

Additional Equipment RequiredRadio Equipment5 channels (minimum)5 servos with 50 in./oz. torque minimumStandard 600–1000 mAh receiver battery packY-harness (if a non-computer radio is used)

Recommended JR SystemsJR XP642JR XP783JR XP8103PCM10X

Engine Requirements1.08-1.2 2-cycle engines1.20-1.50 4-cycle engines23 cc gas

Recommended 2-CycleEngineWebra 1.20

Recommended 4-CycleEnginesSaito 1.20-1.50Saito 1.20GK-1.50GK

Recommended Gas EngineZenoah G23 Gasoline Engine

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Aileron Extension (2) (JRPA114, 12" Silver) Fueler ValvePropeller Kill switch and hardware (if using a gas engine)Foam for cushioning tankFuel tubing (use gas fuel tubing for gas engine)Fuel Filter

Parts Needed

AdhesivesThin CA (cyanoacrylate) glueThick CA (cyanoacrylate) glue6-minute epoxy12-minute epoxy30-minute epoxyBlue Threadlock Z-42Canopy glue (R/C 56)Silver solder (Stay Brite)

ToolsDrillDrill bits: 1/16", 1/8", 5/32", 1/4", 3/8”Soldering ironSmall Phillips screwdriverMedium Phillips screwdriverZ-bend pliersPliers1/16" hex wrenchSmall round fileMoto-Tool with sanding drumHobby knife with #11 bladeMixing stickEpoxy brush90-degree triangleSanding sticks (medium)Medium sandpaperMasking tapeStraight edgeMeasuring device (e.g., ruler, tape measure)ScissorsPaper towelsWax paperRubbing alcoholFelt tipped pen or pencil

Optional EquipmentRadio packing foamAntenna tube

Tools and Supplies Needed

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Contents of Kit

Large PartsA. FuselageB. Left wing half with aileronC. Right wing half with aileron

D. Vertical stabilizer with rudderE. Horizontal stabilizer with elevatorsF. Cowl

Other Parts (not pictured)• Pushrod and accessories• 1/8" plywood die-cut parts• Main landing gear• Hardware bag• Wheels

• Fuel tank and hardware• Decal sheet• Metal motor mounts/hardware• Windshield material• Tail wheel and hardware

A

B

C D

E

F

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Note: The control surfaces, including the ailerons, elevatorsand rudder, come with the hinges installed, but thehinges are not glued in place. It’s imperative that youuse a high quality thin CA glue to properly adhere thehinges and ailerons in place per the steps that follow.

Step 1. Carefully remove the aileron from one of the wing pan-els. Note the position of the hinges. The PT-19 comes with highquality CA-type hinges.

Step 2. Remove each hinge from the wing panel and place aT-pin in the center of each hinge. Slide each hinge into thewing panel until the T-pin is snug against the wing.

Step 3. Slide the aileron onto the wing until there’s only aslight gap. The hinge is now centered on the wing panel andaileron. Remove the T-pins and snug the aileron against thewing panel. This will ensure that the hinges are centered.

Step 4. Deflect the aileron and completely saturate the hingewith thin CA glue. The aileron’s front surface should lightly con-tact the wing during this procedure. Ideally, when the hinge isglued in place, a 1/32" gap or less will be maintained throughoutthe length of the aileron. The hinge is constructed of a specialmaterial that allows the CA to wick, or penetrate, and distributethroughout the hinge, securely bonding it to the wood structure.

Step 5. Turn the wing panel over and deflect the aileron in theopposite direction from the opposite side. Apply thin CA glue toeach aileron hinge, making sure the CA penetrates into both theaileron and the wing.

• Right wing panel with aileron and hinges• Left wing panel with aileron and hinges

• Instant thin CA glue• CA remover/debonder• Paper towels• T-pins (one for each hinge)

Section 1: Hinging the Ailerons

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

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Step 6. Using CA remover/debonder and a paper towel, removeany excess CA glue that may have accumulated on the wing orin the aileron hinge area.

Step 7. Repeat this process with the other wing panel, securelyhinging the aileron in place.

Step 8. After both ailerons are securely hinged, firmly grasp thewing and aileron and check that the hinges are securely gluedand cannot be pulled out. To do this, apply medium pressure totry to separate the aileron from the wing. Use caution that youdo not crush the wing structure.

Note: Work the aileron up and down several times to “workin” the hinges and check for proper movement.

Section 1: Hinging the AileronsCONTINUED

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Step 1. Locate the dihedral brace (also called the wing joiner).Using a ruler, determine the center of the brace and mark it witha pencil.

Step 2. Trial fit the dihedral brace into one of the wing panels.It should insert smoothly up to the center line marked in Step 1.Now slide the other wing panel onto the dihedral brace until thewing panels meet. If the fit is overly tight, it may be necessary tosand the dihedral brace. Check to make sure the alignment ofthe wing is accurate.

Step 3. Check for the correct dihedral angle. Place the wing ona large flat surface with one wing panel resting on the flat sur-face. The opposite wing tip should be at 61/4" in height from thesurface (Note: That’s at the last rib, without the tip section; seeillustration below). If necessary, sand the dihedral brace untilthis is achieved.

Note: It’s a good idea to make a gauge that can be placedunder the wing to hold it at 61/4" when epoxying winghalves together.

Step 4. Separate the wing halves and remove the dihedralbrace. Once you’re satisfied with the trial fit of the wing panels,you can prepare to epoxy the wing panels together.

Step 5. Note: Use the plastic wing covers as a means of keep-ing epoxy from smearing on the wings. Just slip one on eachpanel and use masking tape to hold in place.

Mix up approximately one ounce of 30-minute epoxy. It’s helpfulto have some wax paper handy to prevent epoxy from drippingon your workbench top. Note: It’s extremely important to useplenty of epoxy.

• Right/Left wing panels• Plastic wing bags (optional)• Dihedral brace

• 30-minute epoxy• Epoxy brush• Masking tape• Rubbing alcohol• Paper towels• Wax paper• Ruler• Pencil• Medium sandpaper• Mixing stick

at last rib withouttip section

61/4"

Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves


wing bagtape

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Step 6. Place one wing half right side up on a flat work surface.Use a scrap piece of wood or an epoxy brush and smear a gen-erous amount of epoxy into the wing dihedral brace cavity in thewing panel.

Step 7. Coat one half of the dihedral brace with epoxy on bothsides, up to the pencil line drawn in Step 1. Note the orientation ofthe wing brace — the “V” points to the top of the wing, or facesup, when the wing panel is placed on the workbench top-side up.Install the epoxy-coated half of the dihedral brace into the wingjoiner cavity of the wing panel, up to the centerline, making surethe “V” of the dihedral brace is orientated correctly. Use rubbingalcohol and a paper towel to clean up any excess epoxy.

Step 8. Apply a generous amount of epoxy into the wing bracecavity of the other wing panel.

Note: You’ll need to mix up an additional 1-2 ounces ofepoxy to complete the wing joining process.

Step 9. Next, apply epoxy to all sides of the exposed area of thedihedral brace and uniformly coat both wing roots with epoxy.

Section 2: Joining the Wing HalvesCONTINUED

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Step 10. Carefully slide the two wing halves together and firm-ly press them together, allowing the excess epoxy to run out.Also, check to make sure the wing panels align properly. Wipeany excess epoxy away with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel.At this time, remove the wing bags.

Step 11. Apply masking tape at the wing joint to hold the winghalves together securely. Place the wing right side up on a flatsurface. With one wing half lying flat on the surface, the oppo-site wing tip should be propped such that it’s 61/4" from the sur-face. Apply more masking tape to the wing center joint andrecheck the 61/4" measurement. Also make sure the wing halvesare still properly aligned. Allow the wing joint epoxy to curecompletely (overnight).

Note: It’s helpful to use wax paper underneath the wing cen-ter while the epoxy is curing so any excess epoxy willnot adhere to the work area surface.

Step 12. Allow the wing center joint to cure completely, thenremove the masking tape.

Note: If there is any gap between the wing halves, fill withepoxy.

Section 2: Joining the Wing HalvesCONTINUED

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Step 1. Locate the servo openings in the bottom of each of thewing halves. Using a sharp hobby knife, trim away the coveringover the openings.

Step 2. Install the recommended servo hardware supplied withyour radio system onto your servos (grommets and eyelets).Install a servo extension lead to the servo as well (a 12" exten-sion is recommended). Secure the connectors with either mask-ing tape or a commercial connector that prevents the servo con-nections from becoming disconnected.

Hint: It’s always a good idea to tape or secure the servo con-nectors and servo extension together to prevent thewires from becoming unplugged inside the wing.

Step 3. Trial fit the servo into the servo opening. Dependingupon the type of servo installed, some trimming may berequired. Note that we have orientated the servo so the servoarm is closer to the trailing edge of the wing.

Step 4. With the servo in place, mark the location of the servoscrews that are used to mount the servo to the plywood railinside the servo opening in each wing half.

• Assembled wing• Standard size servos (2)• Servo extensions (2)-(12" recommended-JRPA114)• Music wire (1) (36")• Y-harness (if using a non-computer radio)

• Hobby knife• Phillips screwdriver (medium)• Drill• 1/16" drill bit• Masking tape• Pencil• Needle nose pliers

Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos


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Step 5. Using a 1/16" drill bit, drill the servo screw locationsmarked in Step 4.

Step 6. Before mounting the servo, it’s a good idea to run the servolead and extension through the wing and out the opening providedfor each at the wing center on the top of the wing. Turn the wingover so the wing is right side up and look carefully for an oblongopening near the center of the wing of each wing panel. Using asharp hobby knife, trim away the covering to expose the opening,making sure to use caution so as not to cut into the wing sheeting.

Step 7. Using a small diameter piece of music wire (36" long),thread the music wire through the servo lead opening in one ofthe wing panels on the top side of the wing. Use care to makesure you don’t crush any of the wing structure, or puncture thewing covering. Turn the wing over and carefully guide the musicwire until you can see it in the servo opening in the wing bottom.A needle nose pliers can be used to grasp the wire and pull it out

of the opening. The wire can be started either way, but we foundit easier to get the wire out using the method described above.

An optional method is to use a 16" piece of string with a weight(such as a nut) attached and threaded down the servo openingand out the servo lead opening at the wing center.

Step 8. Once you have the music wire threaded through the wing,make a small hook on one end and tape it to one end of the servolead extension. Carefully thread the wire and extension through thewing. Mount the servo using the screws provided with your servo.

Step 9. To prevent the extension from falling back inside thewing, use masking tape to temporarily hold it in place by tapingthe extension to the top of the wing.

Step 10. Repeat the procedure for the other servo.

Note: If using a non-computer radio, it will be necessary touse a Y-harness to connect both aileron servos to theaileron channel.

Section 3: Installing the Aileron ServosCONTINUED

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Step 1. Turn the wing upside down. From the aileron servocontrol arm that’s attached to your servo (if it’s not attached, doso now), use a felt tipped pen and ruler to mark the location ofthe control horn, directly in-line and/or perpendicular to theleading edge of the aileron with the servo control arm as shown.Remember to locate the control horn so the clevis holes are asclose as possible above the hinge line of the aileron.

Step 2. Place the center of the control horn on the aileron atthe mark made in the previous step. Mark the hole positions ofthe control horn.

Step 3. Remove the control horn and drill two 1/16" holesthrough the aileron as marked.

Note: The trailing edge of the aileron should be in line withthe rest of the wing. Drill straight down at a 90° to theflat surface (table).

Step 4. Attach the aileron control horn using the hardware pro-vided (two long screws and a plastic back plate) and fasten it inplace using a small Phillips screwdriver.

• Wing assembly from Section 3• Aileron linkages (2mm x 7-7/8" — threaded on one end) (2) • Control horns (2)• Screws (4)• Clevis (2)• Plastic control horn plates (2)

• Drill• 1/16" drill bit• Z-bend pliers (optional)• Small Phillips screwdriver• Felt tipped pen• Masking tape• Fuel tubing (optional)• Ruler

Section 4: Installing the Aileron Linkage


90°

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Step 5. Repeat the marking and attachment procedure for theother aileron control horn.

Step 6. Locate the two threaded aileron 2mm wire linkages(2mm x 7 7/8"). Thread a clevis at least 16 turns onto each rod. Besure these are not the longer music wire control rods.

Step 7. Install the clevis with the attached linkage to the aileroncontrol arm. Center the servo arm as shown and, using a felttipped pen, make a mark on the linkage where the Z-bend will beinserted into the servo arm. Make sure the aileron is at 0°deflection. Hold in place with masking tape if necessary.

Step 8. Make a Z-bend in the linkage and cut-off the excesswire.

Step 9. Center the servo arm and install the Z-bend into theoutermost hole. Do the same for the other aileron linkage.

Step 10. Attach the linkages onto their respective aileron con-trol horns.

Step 11. With the servo arm centered as shown, adjust the aileronlinkage until the aileron is exactly in the neutral position. Follow thisprocedure for the other aileron linkage. Final adjustments will bemade later as you adjust the control throws in Section 19.

Note: It is a good idea to place a piece of fuel tubing (7mmin length) over the clevis as shown. This will provideextra insurance against the clevises accidentally com-ing open.

NYLONCLEVIS

THREADED ROD

2X20mm BOLT

NYLON CONTROL HORN SET

LEFT BOTTOM WINGSERVO LEAD

Section 4: Installing the Aileron LinkageCONTINUED

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Step 1. Locate the four wing dowel holes. First, locate the twothat are located inside the fuselage bottom where the leadingedge of the wing rests. (Note: They are oblong shaped.)

Step 2. Next, locate the two holes in the leading edge of the wing.You may need to trim the covering over the holes. Trial fit the wooddowels before mixing the epoxy. Mix a small amount of 12-minuteepoxy, approximately 1/2 ounce, and apply it to the two wooden dow-els. Insert the dowels in the wing holes. Position the dowels so theyprotrude 1/2" out from the leading edge of the wing. Let the epoxycure completely before trying to insert the wing into the fuselage.

Step 3. You can mount the yellow covered plywood wing boltplates now.

Note: The covering will have to be trimmed away from the areaof the bottom of the wing so the plate can be epoxied to thewing.

Trial fit the piece, marking its location with a pencil. Use a sharphobby knife to trim away the covering. CAUTION: Be careful tonot cut into the wood as this can weaken the structure.

Step 4. Note that the wing bolt plate has the holes alreadydrilled out for the wing hold-down bolts. It is important that theholes in the plates are oriented exactly as in the photo. Theseholes will serve as a template later. Mix up 1/2 ounce of 6-minute epoxy and epoxy the wing bolt plate to the bottom of thewing. Allow the epoxy to cure completely.

• Complete wing assembly• Fuselage• Wing dowel rods (2)• Fuselage wing hold-down screws/washers (2)• Blind nuts (2)

• CA glue (medium)• Drill• 1/4" drill bit• Medium Phillips screwdriver• Small round file• Hobby knife• 12-minute epoxy• 6-minute epoxy• Measuring device (e.g., 36" ruler or tape measure)• Masking tape• Rubbing alcohol• Paper towels

Section 5: Mounting the Wing


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Step 5. The fuselage wing hold-down plate is located towardthe rear of the fuselage wing opening.

Step 6. For a reference point, turn the fuselage upside downand place a small piece of masking tape centered on the bottomof the aft portion of the fuselage as shown below. This point willserve as a reference point when the wing alignment is checked.

Step 7. Carefully fit the wing into position on the fuselage, slidingthe leading edge dowels into the fuselage front wing dowel supportbulkhead. Some trimming of the wing bolt hole openings may benecessary in the following steps when the wing alignment is checked.

Step 8. With a reference point established, and prior to drillingthe wing hold-down holes, check the wing alignment by measur-ing from each wing tip to the fuselage tail reference point. Besure to use the same point on each wing tip exactly the samedistance on each side from the center wing. The measurementson each side should be the same.

Step 9. Once you’re satisfied with the alignment, you’re readyto drill the wing hold-down bolt holes. Using a 3/8" drill bit, andthe wing bolt plate holes as a guide, drill through at a 90° anglefrom the wing into the fuselage and through the plywood winghold-down plate. After drilling the holes, remove the wing.

Step 10. Press the blind nuts into position below the rear winghold-down block in the rear portion of the fuselage wing area. Usepliers with an adjustable opening to squeeze the blind nuts so the“teeth” penetrate the wood and stay in place. Note: It is importantthat the blind nuts be fully pressed in against the bottom of thewing hold-down block to make sure they are properly aligned.This sets the alignment angle of the wing hold-down bolts.

Note: It is a good idea to place a piece of wood on the topside of the wing bolt hold-down block to keep fromcrushing the wood.

Section 5: Mounting the WingCONTINUED

17

Step 11. A small drop of medium CA glue will help hold theblind nuts in place. Use care not to get the CA on the innerthreads of the blind nuts. Apply the CA from underneath.

Step 12. Trial fit the wing into position on the fuselage. Threadthe wing hold-down screws into the wing and loosely tighten.Check the alignment of the wing by measuring the alignment asyou did in Step 9. It may be necessary to slightly enlarge theholes with a small round file to obtain the proper alignment.

Step 13. Locate the yellow wing center tape. Apply to the topand bottom of the wing center using a covering iron.

Section 5: Mounting the WingCONTINUED

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Section 6: Installing the Tail (Vertical Fin &Horizontal Stabilizer)

• Fuselage• Wing• Horizontal stabilizer with elevators• Vertical fin with rudder

• Thin CA glue• CA remover/debonder• 30-minute epoxy• Epoxy brush• Hobby knife with #11 blade• Straight edge• Pencil• Felt tipped pen• Masking tape• Rubbing alcohol• Paper towels• 90 degree triangle• Ruler (36")


Step 1. On the rear of the fuselage, slots are pre-cut in thewood structure for the horizontal stabilizer and the vertical fin.You’ll need to trim away the covering with a sharp hobby knife,being very careful not to cut or score the wood underneath.

Step 2. The horizontal stabilizer will be mounted to the fuselagefirst. Remove the two elevator halves from the horizontal stabilizer.Measure to exact center of trailing edge and mark with felt tippedpen.This will serve as a reference point when installing the horizon-tal stabilizer onto the fuselage.

Step 3. Slide the horizontal stabilizer carefully into the slot pro-vided in the fuselage. You may have to trim the opening to allowthe horizontal stabilizer to be inserted. Use care not to force thehorizontal stabilizer in as you may crush the wood.

Step 4. Locate the center line of the fuselage and put a refer-ence mark there. Then, using a long straight edge, measure fromthe reference point on the fuselage to the tip of the horizontalstabilizer on both the left and right side. Adjust the stabilizerposition until both the right and left measurements are the same.

19

Step 5. Now you can install the wing and sight the horizontalstabilizer alignment from the rear of the aircraft. Make sure thehorizontal stabilizer is level with reference to the wing.

Step 6. Trial fit the vertical fin in position. Make sure the fin isinserted completely — some slight trimming to the bottom ofthe fin may be necessary. Carefully check the fin to be sure it’saligned 90 degrees to the horizontal stabilizer (a 90 degree trian-gle is helpful in this step).

Hint: When installing the vertical fin, use the rudder to checkfor proper height. It may be necessary to cut off asmall amount from the bottom of the fin to get therudder to drop down to the proper position.

Step 7. Double check the horizontal stabilizer and vertical fin align-ment. It may be necessary to slightly trim the balsa wood on thefuselage or fin with a sharp hobby knife to achieve exact alignment.

Step 8. When you’re satisfied with the alignment, carefullymark the position with a pencil at the junction where the hori-zontal stabilizer meets the fuselage top and bottom, and wherethe vertical fin meets the fuselage top. The pencil should make alight indentation in the covering.

Step 9. Remove the horizontal stabilizer and vertical fin fromthe fuselage and cut away the covering on the vertical fin with asharp hobby knife, being very careful not to cut the woodunderneath. The covering must be removed so the epoxy willadhere to the balsa of the fuselage and the vertical fin. Cutapproximately 1/8" inside the line drawn on the vertical fin.Again, make sure no bare balsa wood shows when the fin isrepositioned. CAUTION: Do not cut into the wood if at all pos-sible, as doing so will weaken the structure.


Fin Tab

CONTINUED

20

Step 10. Mix up approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy.Carefully slide the horizontal stabilizer back into the opening inthe fuselage. Slightly outside of the light indentation in the cov-ering, drape a piece of masking tape around both sides of thestabilizer and around the outer edges of the stabilizer slot cutinto the fuselage. This will prevent epoxy from smearing every-where and make for a much cleaner seam. Use an epoxy brushto apply epoxy to the top and bottom of the horizontal stabilizer.By sliding the horizontal stabilizer back and forth slightly, theepoxy can be worked into the fuselage and horizontal stabilizerjoint. An epoxy brush can be used to apply more epoxy inside theopening. Note: Be careful not to fill up the cavity of the fin tabwith epoxy because when it dries, it would keep the stabilizerfrom going all the way in. Finally, position it to the referencemarks established when aligning the horizontal stabilizer. Cleanoff any excess epoxy with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel.After the epoxy has begun to cure, after about 15–20 minutes,remove the tape for a clean seam. Allow the epoxy to cure beforeinstalling the vertical fin.

Step 11. Mix up a small amount, approximately 1/4 ounce, of30-minute epoxy and apply it in the fuselage cavity where thevertical fin will be installed. Apply epoxy to both sides of thevertical fin where the covering has been removed. Insert the fininto the fuselage and wipe away any excess. Hint: Taping off thefin and fuse works well here.

Step 12. Align the horizontal stabilizer and the vertical fin asbefore, using masking tape to hold the components in properalignment. Double check the alignment and allow the epoxy tocure completely. The use of a 90 degree triangle is helpful in thisstep to check alignment of the fin to the horizontal stabilizer.


CONTINUED

21

Section 7: Hinging the Horizontal Stabilizer andElevators

• Fuselage• Elevators (2)

• Thin CA glue• CA debonder• Paper towels• T-pins


Step 1. Locate the two elevator halves. Trial fit each into theproper position using the same hinging technique learned inSection 1.

Step 2. With one elevator half properly aligned (left and right),apply thin CA glue to the hinges on both sides. Wipe away anyexcess CA with CA debonder and a paper towel.

Step 3. After the hinges are dry, check to be sure they aresecurely in place by trying to pull the elevator from the horizon-tal stabilizer. Use care not to crush the structure.

Step 4. Repeat Steps 1–3 for the other elevator half.

Step 5. Flex the elevator halves up and down several times to“work in” the hinges and check for proper movement.

22

Section 8: Hinging the Rudder and Installing theTail Wheel

• Rudder• Fuselage• Tail wheel assembly

• Thin CA glue• CA remover/debonder• Threadlock Z-42• 30-minute epoxy• Drill• Drill bits: 1/16", 3/32"• Needle nose pliers• Hobby knife with #11 blade• Felt tipped pen• Paper towels• Rubbing alcohol• Toothpicks (optional)• Vaseline or oil


Step 1. Trial fit the rudder in position on the vertical fin withthe hinges in place. Note that three hinges attach the rudder tothe vertical fin and one attaches the rudder to the fuselage.

Step 2. Insert the tail wheel wire into the pivot bushing. Withthe pivot bushing resting against the bend in the tail wheel wire,use needle nose pliers to make a 90 degree bend in the directionshown below, above the top of the pivot bushing. The bend is90° to the axle of the tailwheel wire.

Note: The part of the tail wheel wire that inserts into the ruddermust go into the hardwood block in the rudder. Thisblock extends15/16” from the bottom of the rudder.Locate the bend of the tail wheel wire so it is approxi-mately 3/4” above to bottom of the rudder.

Step 3. Hold the tail wheel assembly up to the fuselage in aposition where it’s flush with the fuselage bottom. Note wherethe wire rests in reference to the rudder. Using a felt tipped pen,mark the position where the hole is to be drilled into the rudder.Also mark the position of the slot where the pivot bushing will fitinto the back of the fuselage.

23

Step 4. Remove the rudder from the vertical fin. Using a 3/32"drill bit, drill into the exact center of the rudder as marked toaccept the tail wheel wire as shown. It may be helpful to drill a1/16" pilot hole first.

Step 5. Using a hobby knife, cut a slot or grove into the back ofthe fuselage as marked to accept the tail wheel pivot bushing inStep 3.

Step 6. Trial fit the tail wheel assembly and rudder in place.Deflect the rudder, making sure the tail wheel turns freely withthe rudder.

Step 7. When you’re satisfied with the fit, remove the tail wheelassembly from the fuselage. Reinstall the hinges in the verticalfin and fuselage, using T-pins to make sure the hinges are cen-tered. The hinges will be CA’d after the next step.

Step 8. Apply vaseline or oil to the music wire area of the tailwheel wire so it does not adhere to the epoxy. Note: Do notapply to the area that goes into the rudder. Mix up approximately1/4 ounce of 30-minute epoxy and apply it to both the pivotbushing where it goes into the fuselage and into the hole in therudder. Using a toothpick may help in getting the epoxy into theholes. Reassemble the tail wheel assembly and the rudder ontothe vertical fin and fuselage, making sure the rudder is alignedproperly (up and down). Wipe away any excess epoxy with apaper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to cure com-pletely before hinging the rudder.


CONTINUED

24

Step 9. With the rudder and tail wheel assembly installed,apply thin CA glue to the rudder hinges on both sides, usingthe same techniques learned in Section 1. Be sure to removethe T-pins before applying the CA. There should be a minimalgap between the rudder and vertical fin/fuselage.

Step 10. Wipe away any excess CA with CA remover/debonder.After the hinges are dry, check to be sure they are securely inplace by trying to pull the rudder from the vertical fin/fuselage.

Step 11. Work the rudder back and forth (left and right). Checkto make sure movement is free and that the tail wheel assemblytracks accordingly.

Step 12. Once you’re satisfied the tail wheel wire is correctlyaligned, slide the tail wheel itself onto the wire. Next, slide thewheel collar on the wire and tighten the screw in the wheel col-lar. Use Threadlock Z-42 to secure the collar in place.

Note: The wheel must rotate freely with only a small amountof side play. It may be necessary to drill out the tailwheel slightly so the wheel will spin freely on the axle.


CONTINUED

25

Step 1. Locate the four standard control horns, two plasticplates and six screws. Two horns will be used for the elevators,and two will be used on the rudder.

Step 2. It will be helpful to turn the aircraft upside down. Forillustration purposes, we will describe installing the control hornon the right elevator first (as relates to the pilot sitting in cockpit).

Measure 1/2" in from the end of the elevator closest to the fuse-lage as shown below. Make a mark with a felt tipped pen.

Step 3. Locate one control horn and trial fit the horn on theelevator with the edge closest to the fuselage adjacent to themark you made in Step 2.

Step 4. Position the horn so the holes for the clevis are directly overthe hinge line of the elevator/horizontal stabilizer. When you’re satis-fied with the position, mark the screw holes with a felt tipped pen.

• Standard control horns (4)• Plastic plates (2)• Screws (6)• Fuselage• Rudder• Elevators (2)• Nuts (2)

• Phillips screwdriver• Drill• 1/16" drill bit• Ruler• Felt tipped pen• Masking tape• Blue Threadlock Z-42

Section 9: Installing the Control Horns


26

Step 5. Using a 1/16" drill bit, drill two holes through the ele-vator so the control horn can be mounted. Hint: It’s sometimeshelpful to cover the area around the control horn top and bottomwith masking tape so the covering is not accidentally damaged.

Step 6. Attach the elevator control horn using the hardwareprovided (two screws and back plate) and fasten it in place usinga Phillips screwdriver.

Step 7. Attach the other control horn to the opposite elevatorhalf using the same method.

Step 8. Next, install the rudder control horns on the left andright side of the rudder. Measure up 11/2" from the bottom of therudder on one side as shown below. This will serve as the refer-ence point and represent where the bottom edge of the controlhorn will be located.

Step 9. Place one control horn adjacent to the mark you made inStep 8. Position it so the clevis holes are lined up over the hingeline of the rudder and vertical fin, similar to the procedure in Step 4.

Step 10. Once you’re satisfied with the location, use a pencil ora felt tipped pen to mark the screw holes on the rudder. Makesure the horn is centered over the hinge line.

Section 9: Installing the Control HornsCONTINUED

27

Step 11. Drill the holes with a 1/16" drill bit. Install a ruddercontrol horn on both sides of the rudder with two screws. Again,make sure the control horns are centered over the hinge line.Install hex nuts to keep horns in place – use Threadlock Z-42 tosecure in place.

Section 9: Installing the Control HornsCONTINUED

28

Step 1. Locate the main landing gear slots in the bottom of thewing by running your hand along the underside of the wing. Using asharp hobby knife, remove the covering from each of the landinggear slots. Hint: To keep from cutting too far, place a piece of mask-ing tape at each end of the slot so you know when to stop cutting.

Step 2. Place one of the main landing gears into the channel inone of the landing gear blocks as shown below. You may needto use a small round file to bevel out the landing gear hole sothe gear fits flush.

Step 3. Locate the four metal landing gear straps and eightself-tapping screws. With one landing gear installed into a land-ing gear block in a wing panel, place two metal straps across thelanding gear strut. Using a pencil, mark the location of the land-ing gear strap holes for the screws.

Step 4. Remove the landing gear straps from the wing. Using a1/16" drill bit, drill pilot holes for the metal strap screws at thelocations marked in the previous step.

Section 10: Installing the Main Landing Gear

• Wing• Main landing gear (2)• Main landing gear straps (4)• Self-tapping screws (8)

• Pencil• Hobby knife• Drill• 1/16" drill bit• Phillips screwdriver (medium)• Round file


Cut-away view of landing gearblock. Note rounded corners.

29

Step 5. Reinstall the landing gear and straps. Using four2.6mm self-tapping screws, fasten the landing gear to the bot-tom of the wing as shown.

Step 6. Repeat Steps 3 through 6 to mount the second mainlanding gear to the wing.

Step 7. The main wheels may be installed at this point usingthe four wheel collars provided. If you’re planning on addingscale details to the landing gear, refer to Section 18, Applicationof Decals and Scale Detailing.

Section 10: Installing the Main Landing GearCONTINUED

30

Step 1. Mix up approximately 1/2 oz. of 12-minute epoxy andbrush it on the entire firewall area to seal it from fuel. Allow theepoxy to cure completely. CAUTION: Do not get epoxy into anyof the pre-drilled holes.

Hint: Using 12-minute epoxy thinned down with rubbingalcohol will make application easier.

Step 2. Locate the two metal motor mounts and associatedhardware (four blind nuts, four 4.5mm screws and nuts, four3.5mm screws and nuts and 12 washers). The larger screws willbe used to mount the metal motor mount to the firewall.

Step 3. Before you mount the metal motor mounts, note thereare slots in the firewall, so the width of the space between themounts can be adjusted. This will allow mounting of engineswith different size crankcases.

Step 4. Mount the metal motor mounts on the firewall using thehardware provided. Do not over-tighten the screws until youhave done a trial fit of the engine on the mount to finalize spacerequired. Note: It will be necessary to thread the long musicwire (the longest piece of music wire provided), which will beused for the throttle linkage, through the fuselage/firewall andplace a blind nut on the wire so it can be guided into position forthe bottom screw hole in the firewall. Repeat for the other side.

• Fuselage• Metal motor mounts (2)• Mounting hardware• Engine

• Phillips screwdriver• Allen wrench• 12-minute epoxy• Epoxy brush• Rubbing alcohol• Paper towels

Section 11: Installing the Engine (2- or 4-Cycle)


31

Step 5. Trial fit your engine on the motor mount. Once theproper width has been confirmed, tighten the screws on themetal motor mounts. You can remove your engine at this pointwhile completing the following sections. Prior to installing thecontrol linkages, you will want to remount your engine.

6"

Fuselage

The drawing above shows the distance of the engine (Saito1.50) placement prior to the trial fitting of the cowl.

Section 11: Installing the Engine (2- or 4-Cycle)

32

Note: Installation of the Zenoah G-23 Gasoline engine is notdifficult, however, there are two things that are impor-tant to keep in mind. First, provision for a “kill” or“shut-off” switch is a requirement for safety reasons.Refer to the Zenoah Engine Operating Instructions forthe details on how to construct a “shut-off” or “kill”switch. Second, the G-23 engine’s weight will requireweight being added to the tail of the aircraft. Otherwisethe aircraft will be very nose heavy and unsafe to fly.Be sure to read Section 20, Balancing the Aircraft, tomake sure the aircraft is balanced before any attemptto fly.

Step 1. We will use a mixture of 12-minute epoxy and rubbingalcohol to seal the wood firewall area and the 1/4" hardwoodmotor mount. Mix up approximately 1 oz. of 12-minute epoxycombined with 1/2 ounce of rubbing alcohol (the alcohol thinsthe epoxy, making it easier to apply). Mix thoroughly and brushit on the entire firewall area and hardwood motor mount to sealthem from fuel. Allow the epoxy to cure completely. CAUTION:Do not get epoxy into any of the pre-drilled holes.

Step 2. After the epoxy has dried, proceed with mounting theZenoah G-23. First, locate the four 4mm x 25mm flat headmachine screws and the four blind nuts. A template of the hard-wood motor mount is shown below. Note where the flat headscrews and machine screws go. To mount the blind nuts insidethe fuselage behind the firewall, use a piece of music wire toguide the blind nut into position, then use the screw to tightenthe blind nut into the plywood temporarily (refer to the proce-dure described in Section 11, Step 4).

Section 12: Installing the Engine (Gas Option)

• Fuselage• Plywood motor mount• Mounting hardware (optional) (four 4mm x 25mm flat head

screws, four 4mm x 30mm machine screws, four 4mm nuts,four 4mm washers)

• Blind nuts• Engine

• Phillips screwdriver• Allen wrench• ball driver• 12-minute epoxy• 30-minute epoxy• Rubbing alcohol• Paper towels• Kill switch and hardware (required but not included in kit)


Machine

Machine

1/4” Hardwood

Machine

Flat head

Flat head

Flat head

Flat head

MachineF-1A

33

Step 3. Once the blind nuts are in place, proceed with mount-ing the 1/4" hardwood motor mount to the firewall. You will haveto countersink the screw holes for the motor mount screws. A6–8mm drill bit can be used, but be careful not to drill all theway through the hardwood motor mount. What you want is ataper so the head of the flat head screw is flush with the hard-wood motor mount, as shown in the illustration below.

Step 4. Once the holes for mounting the hardwood motormount to the firewall have been tapered, you can proceed tomount the hardwood motor mount. Trial fit the flat head screwsand hardwood motor mount to the firewall and blind nuts. Nowis the time to make any final adjustments before applying epoxyand securely mounting the flat head screws to the blind nuts inthe firewall.

Note: If you plan to build the aircraft so it can have the hard-wood motor mount removable, do not epoxy the hard-wood motor mount to the firewall; simply secure inplace with the four flat head screws).

Step 5. Mix up approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy andapply to the backside of the hardwood motor mount (the sidethat will contact the firewall). Mount the hardwood motor mountto the firewall and screw in the flat head screws until the hard-wood motor mount is secured to the firewall.

Step 6. After the epoxy has had an opportunity to cure, you canmount the Zenoah G-23 to the hardwood motor mount using thefour 4mm x 30mm machine screws, washers, and nuts. Sometrimming around the bottom portion of the firewall and hardwoodmotor mount may be required for the machine screws to fit.

Note: Instructions on throttle servo/linkage installation andcowl installation will be covered in Sections 15 and 16.

Section 12: Installing the Engine (Gas Option)CONTINUED

34

Step 1. Locate the tank parts. Decide if you will make a glow orgas fuel tank, depending upon your choice of engine.

Note: If you’re going to install a Zenoah G-23 or other gaso-line engine, the silicone tubing and glow engine stopperare not compatible. With a gasoline powered engine,do not use them, use the red stopper and black tubing.

Step 2. Locate either the black (glow) or red (gas) stopper,depending on the engine you’ll be using. Insert one brass tubeinto one of the open holes in the stopper so an equal amount oftube extends from each side. This tube will be the fuel tank pick-up tube that provides fuel to the engine.

Step 3. Slide the smaller of the two plastic caps over the brasstube on one side of the black rubber stopper so the small “peg”faces away from the stopper and toward the inside of the fuel tank.The longer cap is placed on the other side of the rubber stopperso the raised center “faces away” from the rubber stopper.

Step 4. Locate the other brass tube and bend it using your fingers as shown. This tube will be the fuel tank vent tube.

Step 5. Slide the vent tube into the other open hole of the stop-per as shown.

• Brass tube, long (vent)• Brass tube, long (fuel)• Clunk (fuel pickup)• Fuel pick up tube, glow (clear)• Fuel pick up tube, gas (black)• Fuel tank• Plastic cap (2)• Rubber stopper, glow (black)• 3mm screw• Stopper, gas (red)• Fuel tubing, gas (not supplied, DUB554/AER1073)• Foam to wrap around tank (not supplied)• Fuel tubing (glow)

• Hobby knife• Screwdriver (medium)

Section 13: Assembling and Installing the FuelTank (Glow/Gas)


gas

glow

35

Step 6. Note the orientation of the tubes and plastic caps. Makesure the vent tube is positioned correctly.

Step 7. Locate the small diameter fuel tubing (clear for glow andblack for gas). This tubing will be used for the fuel pickup insidethe fuel tank. Insert the clunk into one end of the fuel tubing.

Step 8. Install the open tube end of the tubing onto the pickupbrass tubing.

Step 9. Insert the 3mm screw into the center hole of the largerplastic cap and tighten until it just threads into the black cap onthe other side of the rubber stopper.

Step 10. Carefully insert the assembly into the fuel tank. Notethe position of the vent tube—it must be at the top portion ofthe fuel tank to function properly. Be sure the vent is positionedat the top. The length of the tubing can be shortened by cuttingit with a sharp hobby knife.


CONTINUED

36

Step 11. Tighten the 3mm screw slightly. Then, insert the stop-per, clunk, and tubes into the fuel tank. Position tubing asshown in Step 9. Note vent tube position. After stopper assem-bly is inserted, finish tightening the 3mm screw. This will allowthe rubber stopper to form a seal. Important: Remember whichtube is the fuel pickup and which is the vent so you can properlyconnect the fuel tank to the engine. You may want to mark one ofthe tubes with a piece of masking tape identifying which one it is(i.e., either “V” or “F”).

Step 12. Install the fuel tubing onto the two tubes and feedthrough the holes in the firewall as you press the fuel tank into

position. Foam in the tank compartment can be used to providesome vibration damping and help support the fuel tank (foamnot provided). Some trimming of the fuel tank location may benecessary to fit the tank into the fuselage.

Step 13. If you are going use a Zenoah gasoline engine, youwill need to relocate where the fuel tubing exits the compart-ment. We suggest below the plywood motor mount.


CONTINUED

37

Step 1. The plywood servo tray has already been installed inthe fuselage. Trial fit the three servos in the tray. Note the orien-tation as shown below.

Step 2. Proceed to install the grommets and eyelets on thethree servos as per the instructions included with your radio.With the servos temporarily in place, note how much room thereis between the servo horns.

Note: The rudder servo will be the center servo of the threeand will be raised with the included servo spacer toclear the pull-pull linkage from the elevator pushrodlinkage.

Step 3. Once you’re satisfied with the servo alignment, markthe mounting holes for the elevator and throttle servos. Removeall of the servos from the tray except the center rudder servo.

Step 4. Trial fit the two plywood pieces of the rudder servo, sothat the servo is positioned higher. Mark where the hardwoodpieces are located on the tray. Remove the servo and hardwoodpieces.

• 4-channel radio system with 5 servos• Fuselage• Radio packing foam (not included)• Antenna tube (not included)• Plywood pieces (2)

• Drill• 1/16" drill bit• Small Phillips screwdriver• Hobby knife with #11 blade• Pencil or felt tipped pen• 6-minute epoxy• Rubbing alcohol• Paper towels• Epoxy brush

Section 14: Installing the Radio


38

Step 5. Mix up a small amount (approximately 1/4 ounce) of 6-minute epoxy and epoxy the two plywood pieces to the servotray. Let the epoxy cure completely before proceeding to the nextstep.

Step 6. Trial fit the rudder servo (center location) and mark theservo screw holes with a felt tipped pen. Drill the 12 holes for allthree servos using a 1/16" drill bit. Screw the servos in placeusing the 12 screws provided with the servos.

Step 7. Use radio packing foam (available at your local hobbyshop) when you install the receiver and battery pack. Wrap thebattery and receiver securely with foam and install them in thefuselage. We suggest placing the battery pack in the spacebehind the servos toward the rear of the aircraft, so the weightwill help balance the aircraft.

Step 8. Route the antenna back through the fuselage using anantenna tube (not included), or route it outside the fuselage backto the vertical fin. Install the switch on the right side of the frontof the cockpit so that it’s easily accessible.

Step 9. Connect the three servos in the fuselage to the receiverand then connect the switch harness to the receiver and batterypack as outlined in your radio’s instructions. Turn on your trans-mitter and receiver and center your transmitter trims. Then turnoff the receiver, then the transmitter in that order. Your servoswill now be in their “electrical zero” position. Make sure yourservo horns are positioned to reflect this “neutral” or “0” posi-tion, as measurements for your control linkages depending uponthe correct positioning of the servo arms, both mechanically andelectrically.

Note: The throttle linkage and servo installation for the G-23gas/glow engine will be covered in Section 15.

Section 14: Installing the RadioCONTINUED

39

Construction Notes: The construction/installation of each con-trol linkage (i.e., elevator, rudder, and throttle) will be approacheddifferently. The construction sequence is up to the builder, how-ever we will begin with the elevator. Please read through this sec-tion carefully so you understand the construction sequence.

Step 1. We will first describe the elevator linkage. Locate thecomponents for the elevator control linkage, made up of a wood-en pushrod, three threaded control wires (one 77/8" x 2mm, two12" x 2mm, three clevises, and one piece of heat shrink tubing).Since the PT-19 uses a split elevator, you will construct apushrod that has two threaded rods on one end of the woodenpushrod for the two elevators, and one shorter threaded rod toconnect to the servo horn on the other end.

Step 2. Using either a pencil or felt tipped pen, mark 2" fromeach end of the hardwood pushrod (2 places).

Step 3. Drill a 1/8" hole through the hardwood pushrod at onemarked end. Drill a 1/8" hole at the other end marked, but drill itso it is 90 degrees in reference to the first hole drilled.

Step 4. At the end you drilled the 1/8" hole, make a secondmark 21/4" from the end.

• Fuselage• 193/8" x 2mm (1-Threaded on one end)• 12" x 2mm (2-Threaded on one end)• 77/8" x 2mm (1-Threaded on one end)• Wood pushrod (1-193/4")• Clevis (7)• Heat Shrink Tubing• .020 music wire 36" (2)• Threaded couplers (4)

• Soldering iron• Silver solder (Stay Brite)• Needle nose pliers• 12-minute epoxy• Rubbing Alcohol• Paper Towels• Drill• 1/8" Drill bit• Pencil or felt tipped pen• Heat gun

Section 15: Installing the Control Linkages


40

Step 5. Drill a 1/8" hole at this mark. This end of the hardwooddowel will be used as the pushrod end for the split elevators.Two of the 12" threaded rods will be installed at this end.

Step 6. Locate the two 12" threaded rods. Using a needle nosepliers, bend a 90 degree angle at the opposite end of the thread-ed portion of each rod. The bent section should be 1/8"–3/16"long. Cut off any excess material so the rods will fit into theholes of the hardwood pushrod without the ends extending outof the hole on the other side.

Step 7. Using the pattern shown below as a reference, bend thetwo threaded 12" rods the approximate angle the diagramshows. These are only approximate, final adjustment will bemade when fitting the control rods to each elevator control horn.

Step 8. Trial fit the two 12" threaded rods into the holes oneither side of the wood pushrod. We highly recommend you cuta groove for both to help secure the rods. You may also need tobevel the hole so the wires fit flush to the hardwood pushrod.

Step 9. Once you’re satisfied with the fit, mix a small amount,approximately 1/4 ounce, of 12-minute epoxy and apply it to theholes and areas the rods will fit into. Coat the joint with epoxy and

slide a piece of heat shrink tubing over the end of the woodenpushrod end. Allow epoxy to cure, then using a heat gun, shrinkinto place.

Step 10. Carefully cut away the covering at the tail of the fuse-lage where the pushrods exit. Note there are two cutouts on eachside. The ones closest to the horizontal stabilizer are for the ele-vator pushrods to exit. The ones farther away from the horizontalstabilizer are the pull-pull rudder cable exits.

Section 15: Installing the Control LinkagesCONTINUED

41

Step 11. Spread the two threaded pushrods apart approximately11/2"–2". Insert the elevator pushrod into the fuselage so that eachthreaded rod comes out of the elevator pushrod exits. Thread aclevis on each rod at least 16 turns and connect each to the ele-vator control horns. Hint: To push the elevator pushrods through,use two outer tubes of nylon pushrods to guide them out.

Step 12. If the elevator servo has not been electrically centered,now is the time to do so. Refer to Section 14, Step 9.

Step 13. The short (77/8 x 2mm) threaded rod will be attached tothe wooden pushrod next. In order to determine the length of therod needed, we suggest you use masking tape to temporarily attachthe rod to the wooden pushrod. We have already made an “L” 1/8"from the end of one end of the rod. Temporarily tape the rod inposition in the hole previously drilled in Step 3. (See photo below.)You may need to make a slight bend in the rod so the pushroddoes not rub on the servo tray.

Step 14. With the clevis attached to the elevator control horns,you are ready to measure the rod end that will attach to the ele-vator servo arm. Use masking tape to hold both elevators in theneutral or 0 degree position. With the elevators at zero and theservo horn electrically centered, you should now be able to

identify where to mark the music wire so the Z-bend you willmake will go into the hole in the elevator servo arm.

Step 15. Once you are satisfied with the dimensions of the elevatorservo pushrod wire, remove the wire from the wooden pushrod andmake the Z-bend at the location you marked. Trim off any excess wire.Trial fit the music wire rod to the hole in the wooden pushrod to makesure it fits flush against the wooden pushrod. Make grooves similarto what you did on the other end of the rod. It will be helpful toremove the clevis and elevator pushrod assembly for the next step.

Step 16. When you’re satisfied with the fit, mix a small amountof 12-minute epoxy (approximately 1/4 ounce) and apply to thehole and area where the rod will fit into. Coat with epoxy, slideon heat shrink tubing, and allow to cure completely. Using aheat gun, shrink into place.

Step 17. Before attempting to re-install the completed elevatorpushrod, make sure the epoxy has cured completely.

Step 18. Reinstall the elevator pushrod and attach to the elevatorcontrol horns and elevator servo arm. Make any necessary mechan-ical adjustments so the elevators are at 0 degrees when the servoarm is electrically centered. Adjustments can be made by screwingthe clevis in or out. We suggest you install 5–7mm sections of fueltubing over each of the clevises to make sure they do not openaccidentally.

Step 19. The rudder pull-pull type of linkage is made up ofmusic wire (.020), four threaded couplers, and four clevises.


42

The rudder control horns have already been mounted on therudder. You will make up two sets of linkages.

Step 20. Scrape or clean the ends of each piece of music wire.Using a soldering iron, silver solder one of the threaded couplers onone end of each piece of music wire. Note: It’s important to bendover approximately 3/8" of the music wire onto itself at the endsusing some pliers. This will give a more secure mechanical solderjoint as the silver solder has more to “grab onto” than a straight end.

Step 21. After the solder has cooled, check the security of thesolder connection by pulling on the connection. Attach a clevis onthe threaded coupler and thread the other end through the fuse-lage. Attach the clevis to one of the rudder control horns. Do thesame with the other pull-pull linkage.

Step 22. Trial fit one of the linkages to the servo arm of the rudderservo, compensating for the fact there will be a threaded couplerand clevis attached. Once you’re satisfied with the length, silver sol-der the threaded coupler to the music wire as described in Step 20.After the solder has cooled, again check the security of the joint.Make up the second linkage using the previous procedure. Onceboth linkages have been constructed, trial fit in place by installingthe clevis on each linkage and connecting to the control horn of therudder servo. Final length adjustments can be made at either or

both ends of a linkage by screwing the clevises in and out as need-ed. You can also move the clevis closer in or further out on thehorn/arm. Be sure to use 5–7mm sections of fuel tubing over eachclevis to prevent accidental opening. Note that we have removedtwo of the servo arms to allow more freedom of movement.

Step 23. To install the engine throttle linkage, you will have toremount your engine, unless it is already mounted. To install thethrottle pushrod, locate the 193/8" rod that is threaded on oneend. Install a clevis onto the threaded end 16 turns. This will beused to connect the throttle arm to the throttle servo. Trial fit therod and note where it will pass through the fuselage formers.The location of the opening in the firewall for the pushrod willdepend on the type of engine installed. We will use a Saito 1.50four-stroke engine to illustrate the steps for the installation andadjustment of the throttle linkage. Once you have determined thelinkage path, use a 1/8" drill bit to drill a hole in the firewall andfuselage formers as necessary. A 1/8" hole should provideample room for linkage operation. Caution: Do not drillthrough the fuel tank.

Step 24. Thread the throttle control rod through the firewallunthreaded end first. Attach the clevis to the engine throttle con-trol arm.

Section 15: Installing the Control Linkages

3/8"

threaded coupler

CONTINUED

3/8"

43

Step 25. Note where the throttle control rod is in relation to thethrottle servo arm in the fuselage. Make sure the carburetor is1/2 open and that the servo is at its electrical center position.Mark where the rod passes over the servo arm with a felt tippedpen or pencil. You will then make a Z-bend in the rod at the pointyou marked. Remove the servo arm and trial fit rod. You may findsome trimming necessary to make sure rod will fit the servo arm.

Step 26. Attach the Z-bend to the servo arm in the second holefrom the end of the arm. Minor adjustments to the carburetoropening can be made by screwing the clevis in or out, or posi-tioning the Z-bend closer or further out on the servo arm. Beginyour adjustments with the throttle set at the 1/2 open positionwhen the arm of the servo and the rod are 90 degrees to eachother and the servo is electrically centered.

Step 27. Double check the alignment of the elevator, rudder andthrottle linkages. Don’t forget the ailerons. Adjustments can bemade at two points for each linkage—at the servo arm and at thecontrol horn. Sometimes it only takes one adjustment, other timesit requires both adjustments. Once you have made all of yourmechanical adjustments, you can then proceed to make any elec-trical adjustments through your transmitter, if applicable. Checkeach clevis to make sure there is a 5–7mm section of fuel tubingover each clevis to prevent accidental opening. Also, check tomake sure the linkage movement is free for each control. Thereshould not be binding of any of the control surfaces or linkages.

Special Note for installing the throttle servo used onthe Zenoah Z-23 engine.

Step 27A. The installation of the throttle linkage for the ZenoahG-23 engine is unique, due to the physical location of theWalboro carburetor and the throttle linkage set-up for theZenoah engine. Locate the throttle linkage kit provided with theengine. You will also need the throttle linkage music wire pro-vided in the kit and a ball link (2mm, not provided). The methodof connecting the servo linkage to the carburetor is up to thebuilder, however we will describe one method using ball links.

Cut the music wire throttle linkage to a 41/2" length measuredfrom the threaded end. Attach the ball link to the threaded endapproximately 15 turns.

Step 28. You will also need to prepare the throttle servo. Mountthe rubber grommets and eyelets as per the instructions provid-ed with your radio system. We suggest you also trim off anyservo extra servo arms leaving just one. Mount an EZ-connectorto the outermost hole of the servo arm.


44

Step 29. We will be using a standard JR 507 servo as the throttleservo to illustrate the placement of the throttle servo. Any dimensionsprovided will pertain to the 507 servo and you may have to makeminor adjustments if you use a different servo. It is important you“trial fit” the servo and linkages prior to final installation to make surethe clearances are correct. There will not be much space between thecowl and the servo linkage, so use care in mounting the servo.

Step 30. The Zenoah G-23 has a throttle linkage kit which will be usedto connect the throttle servo to the carburetor. Locate the throttle linkagekit and assemble it per the instructions provided with your engine.

Note the bell crank is mounted to the engine using a supplied4mm bolt. Place one washer on either side of the bell crank.Place a second washer and a 4mm nut on the side of the bellcrank closest to the engine crankcase.

Step 31. We suggest you add a second 4mm nut to providespacing for the bell crank assembly so it will line up better withthe servo linkage and prevent any binding. You may have tomake some adjustments to the bell crank assembly to get thelinkages to line up correctly and eliminate any binding problems.

Step 32. Assemble the two ball links to the coupling rod. Attach oneend of the coupling rod assembly to the bell crank unit. Attach theother ball link to the carburetor arm. The length of the coupling rodassembly can be adjusted by screwing the ball links in our out on thethreaded coupling rod. If the threaded coupling rod is too long, you

may have to trim a small portion off and reinstall the ball links. Oncethe servo linkage is attached, adjustments will have to be made tofine tune the throw of the linkages. Note: It may be necessary toslightly bend the linkage to provide clearance for carburetor parts.

Step 33. With the engine throttle linkage mounted, you areready to mount the throttle servo. Remember the clearance ofthe cowl to the firewall is about 1/4" so care will be needed intrial fitting the servo and linkage to the carburetor. A servo, two11/2" x 1/4" dowels and a template (13/8" x 11/2" for a JR507 servo)will be used in the following steps.

Step 34. The throttle servo will be mounted on the top deck ofthe firewall. Trial fit the servo as shown (with music wire and balllink attached) to establish its approximate position. Note thatthere will be an angle so that the servo throttle music wire link-age passes close to the wood motor mount, yet have sufficientclearance for the EZ-connector on the servo arm.


45

Step 35. Once you are satisfied with the approximate position,mark the servo location with a pencil. We made a template of theservo to help establish the position where we would drill the holesfor the 1/4" wood dowels (provided) used to mount the servo.

Step 36. Mark the location of the wood dowels using the tem-plate (or servo) as a guide. For the JR 507 servo, the distancebetween the dowel centers is 17/8". We mounted the 11/2" long1/4" dowels to the servo before drilling the holes to mount theservo. We also made an opening for the servo lead to pass intothe interior of the fuselage

Step 37. Drill out the two holes for the dowels using a 1/4" drillbit. Be sure to make a final check of the alignment of the servolinkage to the carburetor before drilling. Use care not to drill toofar and into the fuel tank.

Step 38. Make a small cardboard spacer for the servo from aportion of the kit box. This spacer will be used to hold the servoup about 1/16" from the plywood firewall while the epoxy cures.Wrap a piece of wax paper around the spacer so it can beremoved once the epoxy cures. When these preparations are fin-ished, mix up a small amount of 6-minute epoxy (approximately1/4 ounce). Apply to the dowels and insert into the firewall,

making sure the spacer is in place so the servo is held approxi-mately 1/16" off the surface. This is done to reduce any vibrationto the servo.

Step 39. Allow the epoxy to cure completely before attemptingto connect the servo linkage to the carburetor throttle linkassembly. The linkages are set up so that when the servo is atneutral (with carburetor at 1/2 open) both servo arms arestraight down forming the same angle. Refer to the photo below.You will need to make mechanical adjustments to fine tune thethrow of the linkages. Each installation is unique to some extent,however it is important to check for clearances, and that eacharm moves the same amount so that differential is not a concern.

template


46

Step 1. Using a Moto-Tool, grind out the prop and coolingopenings in the front of the cowl. Cut out a “U” shape in the bot-tom of the cowl so the muffler will have an outlet and there willbe access for a glow driver. This will also provide for sufficientair flow around the engine. Dimensions of the “U” shape for aSaito FA-150 are 21/2" wide and 2 3/8" deep.

Note: It is suggested you start with a small pilot hole andthen enlarge carefully.

Step 2. Trial fit the cowl to your engine. Note those areas thatneed to be trimmed out, such as needle valve openings, externalfill opening, etc.

Step 3. Mark the location with a felt tipped pen. For illustrationpurposes, we are showing the openings for the Saito 1.50engine mounted in the PT-19.

Step 4. Carefully cut out this location using a Moto-Tool.Note: If you’re using another type of engine, it will be necessaryto carefully cut portions of the cowl that are located differentlyfrom where it’s shown for the installation of the Saito 1.50.

Step 5. Slide the cowling onto the fuselage. Note: It may benecessary to trial fit the cowl with and without the engine mufflerattached.

• Fiberglass cowling• Self-threading screws (5)• Washers (5)

• Drill• 1/16" drill bit• Masking tape• Moto-Tool with sanding drum• Carbide cutter• Sanding stick• Ruler• Felt tipped pen• Phillips screwdriver

Section 16: Attaching the Cowling


47

Step 6. Tape the cowl securely in position and check that it fitscorrectly. There should be ample clearance (1/8" around theengine and muffler). Also check that the prop drive flange (propdriver) is centered in the opening of the cowl and that the flange(driver) extends at least 3/16" forward of the cowl. Your FA-150should be positioned to be 6" between the prop driver and thewall to which the metal motor mount bolts.

Step 7. Locate the cowl hold-down screw locations. Note thehardwood blocks around the engine compartment. These arelocated as hard points for the cowl screws to mount to. The use ofa paper template will ease location of the screw holes in the cowl.

Step 8. Use a 1/16" drill bit to drill out pilot holes in the cowland the screw hold-down blocks. It’s helpful to use soap on thethreads of the screws when you screw into the hardwood blocks.Note: Be sure the cowl is pulled down tightly and held securelyprior to drilling a hole, and as each hole is drilled, check tomake sure the cowl has not moved.

6"

Fuselage

Section 16: Attaching the CowlingCONTINUED

48

Step 1. Locate the two windscreens and note the raised linesoutlining the frames.

Step 2. Carefully trim the windscreens, making sure that nottoo much material is removed. Periodically check the wind-screen fit to the fuselage while trimming.

Step 3. Trial fit each windscreen to the fuselage.

Step 4. After confirming the fit of the windscreens, attach eachto the fuselage using canopy glue, such as Pacer Formula 560.Use masking tape to hold the windscreens in place while theglue dries. Allow at least 24 hours to dry.

Step 5. After the windscreens are firmly in place, apply theblack trim tape to the frame outlines on each windscreen for amore finished look. You can also mask and spray paint theframes either black or blue.

Hint: Another method for attaching the windscreens is to use1/16" Du-Bro button head screws.

• Fuselage• Windscreen (2)• Windscreen trim tape)• Screws (8)

• Scissors• Canopy glue (Pacer Formula 560)• Masking tape• Trim film/tape (blue)

Section 17: Attaching the Windscreens


49

Note: A two-view drawing of the PT-19A is provided as areference for placement of the decals provided in thekit. The drawing also details other items the modelermight want to add. See page 50.

Placement of DecalsStep 1. Locate the stars (4) and field numbers (2 large, 2 small) provided in the kit.

Step 2. Using a ruler, mark the location of the wing stars cen-tered, at approximately 131/4" from each wing tip, top and bot-tom, and 43/8" back from the leading edge of the wing. Trial fitthe star in position before removing the decal backing. Onceyou’re satisfied with the location, remove the backing and applythe decal. Use a soft cloth to rub out any bubbles in the decal.

You can also use a mixture of soap and water, applied to thewing surface, and position the decal. The soapy water will allowthe decal to be moved into position.

Step 3. The large yellow field numbers are centered approxi-mately 20" from the rear of the fuselage (not the rudder) and 31/2"up from the fuselage bottom.

Step 4. The smaller yellow field numbers are centered on eitherside of the cowling. Some trimming may be required due toholes, etc., in the cowling.

Section 18: Application of Decals and ScaleDetailing

• Fuselage• Wing• Decals• Rollover cage

• Scissors• 6-minute epoxy• Rubbing alcohol• Paper towels• Epoxy brush• Ruler


50

Step 5. Wing walks can be made from black 400 grit wet or drysandpaper (not included).

Roll-Cage InstallationStep 6. Install the roll-over cage between the front and rearcockpit openings. Trial fit it into position until you’re satisfiedwith the location; then mark where the four posts touch the fuse-lage top. Carefully remove the covering in these areas.

Step 7. Mix up a small amount (approximately 1/4 ounce) of 6-minute epoxy and apply it to the ends of the roll-over cageposts. Apply it to the fuselage at the location previously marked.Allow the epoxy to cure completely. Excess epoxy can becleaned off using rubbing alcohol and a paper towel.

WheelsStep 8. Paint wheel covers yellow as some aircraft were sodecorated

Instrument PanelsStep 9. Instrument panels can be installed in the cockpits.Ready-made instrument panels are available for the PT-19 fromHangar 9. HAN 180 includes both front and rear panels orHAN181 (front instrument panel) and HAN182 (rear instrumentpanel) are available for installation as shown below.

PilotsStep 10. Pilot busts can be added to the cockpits to provide amore realistic appearance. Pilots are available from Hangar 9,Virtual Reality, etc.—check for them at your local hobby shop.We used the Hangar 9 1/4 scale WWI Pilot Bust (HAN8278).

Other DetailsA careful study of the two-view drawing on the following pageshows other features that the modeler can add to the aircraft. Lifthandles, pitot tube, etc., are all identified in the drawing.Fabrication of the wing and tail fairings should only be attempt-ed by the more experienced modeler as the process is complex.

Section 18: Application of Decals and ScaleDetailing

51

Baggage Compartment

Rubber Cockpit Edge

Wing WalkAileron TrimTab

Hand Hold

Pitot Tube(Right Wing)Fuel Gauge

Fuel Tank CapVenturi

Roll-Over Pylon

Wood Propeller

Black Anti-Glare Paint onShaded Area

Primer &Starter

VenturiRear ViewMirror

Roll-OverPylon Baggage

Compartment Metal Fairings(Fuselage Color)

Blue

RedWhite

Hand LiftHandleYellow

FieldNumber

Fixed CantileverLanding Gear,Hydraulic Brakes

Technical DataLegend

Fire ExtinguisherDoor

Field Number

PerformanceTop Speed 135 mphCruising Speed 120 mphStalling Speed 46 mphService Ceiling 16,000 ftRate of Climb 835 fpmRange (Cruising) 480 miles

SpecificationsWingspan 35' 11.18"Length 27' 8.37"Height 7' 9.0"Empty Weight 1749 lbs.Gross Weight 2450 lbs.Useful Load 701 lbs.

Power plant (Model 62A, PT-19A)Ranger L-440-3, 200 HP In-Line

Scale in Feet0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

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Section 19: Control Throw Recommendations

The following control throws offer a good place to start with for your first flights. If only one rate is available on your radio, set up thecontrol throws for low rate for the first flights, then increase the throws to your liking.

Aileron Low Rate High RateMeasured furthest inboard: 3/8" 5/8"

Elevator Low Rate High RateMeasured furthest inboard: 5/8" 1"

Rudder Low Rate High RateMeasured at the bottom of the rudder: 1" 21/8"

53

Section 20: Balancing the PT-19

An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight is properlybalancing the model. This is especially important when variousengines are mounted. CAUTION: Do not inadvertentlyneglect this step!

The recommended C.G. (Center of Gravity) location for the firstflights with the PT-19 is 413/16" from the leading edge of the wing,measured at the fuselage.

If necessary, add weight either to the tail or nose until the correctbalance is achieved. Stick-on weights are available at your localhobby shop and work well for this purpose.

We have tested several PT-19 models using the following powerplants and have found the added weight to be approximately asfollows:

Webra 1.20 No additional weight needed

Saito 1.50 0–3 oz. to tail

Zenoah G-23 8–10 oz. to tail

Note: The above weights are what we found on the modelswe built. Due to various densities of balsa wood andplywood and the amount of epoxy used in variousstages of assembly, the weights needed to balanceyour model can vary from what we obtained.

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Pre-Flight Check

1. Check that all control functions move in the correct direction. Ifnot, use the respective reversing switch to correct the direction.

ELEVATOR

ELEVATOR

AILERON

AILERON

AILERON

THROTTLE

1/16”

CARBURETOR

RUDDER

RUDDER

2. Check that each clevis is securely snapped into position andsections of fuel tubing used to hold clevis closed to preventaccidential opening.

3. Check that all servo horn screws are tight.

4. Charge the transmitter and receiver battery per the instruc-tions included with the radio system.

5. Read and follow all the instructions included with the engineand follow the recommended break-in procedure.

Flight InstructionsExperienced pilots will find the PT-19 to be a confidence-inspiring airplane. Super stable and slow flight characteristicsmake pinpoint landings a breeze. At full throttle with a strong1.50, the PT-19 is more than capable of most sport aerobaticsmaneuvers.

Repair InformationOne of the advantages of a ARF kit is that replacement parts arereadily available through your hobby shop. In the misfortune of

55

Range Testing Your RadioStep 1. Before each flying session be sure to range check yourradio. This is accomplished by turning on your transmitter withthe antenna collapsed. Turn on the radio in your airplane. Withyour airplane on the ground, you should be able to walk 30paces away from your airplane and still have complete control ofall functions. If not, do not attempt to fly! Have your radioequipment checked out by the manufacturer.

Step 2. Double check that all controls (aileron, elevator, throt-tle, and rudder) move in the correct direction.

Step 3. Be sure that your batteries are fully charged per theinstructions included with your radio.

Adjusting the EngineStep 1. Completely read the instructions included with yourengine and follow the recommended break-in procedure. At thefield, adjust the engine to a slightly rich setting at full throttleand adjust the idle and low speed needle so that a consistentidle is achieved. Before you fly be sure that your engine reliablyidles , transitions, and runs at all throttle settings. Only whenthis is achieved should any plane be considered ready for flight.

Pre-Flight at the Field

56

AMA SAFETY CODE

1994 Official AMA National Model Aircraft Safety CodeEffective January 1, 1994

Model flying must be in accordance with this Code inorder for AMA liability protection to apply

General1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows, or

model flying demonstrations until it has been proven to be airworthyby having been previously, successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model higher than approximately 400 feet within 3miles of an airport without notifying the airport operator. I will giveright-of-way and avoid flying in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.Where necessary, an observer shall be utilized to supervise flying toavoid having models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the flying site Iuse, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my models in a care-less, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

4. At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be established infront of which all flying takes place with the other side for spectators.Only those persons essential to the flight operations are to be permit-ted on the flying side of the line; all others must be on the spectatorside. Flying over the spectator side of the line is prohibited, unlessbeyond the control of the pilot(s). In any case, the maximum permis-sible takeoff weight of the models is 55 pounds.

5. At air shows or model flying demonstrations a single straight linemust be established, one side of which is for flying, with the otherside for spectators. Only those persons accredited by the contestdirector or other appropriate official as necessary for flight operationsor as having duties or functions relating to the conduct of the show ordemonstration are to be permitted on the flying side of the line. Theonly exceptions which my be permitted to the single straight linerequirements, under special circumstances involving consideration ofside conditions and model size, weight, speed, and power, must bejointly approved by the AMA President and the Executive Director.

6. Under all circumstances, if my model weighs over 20 pounds, I willfly it in accordance with paragraph 5 of this section of the AMA SafetyCode.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name andaddress or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This does notapply to models flown indoors.

8. I will not operate models with metal-bladed propellers or withgaseous boosts, in which gases other than air enter their internalcombustion engine(s); nor will I operate models with extremely haz-ardous fuels such as those containing tetranitromethane or hydrazine.

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that explodes,burns, or propels a projectile of any kind) including, but not limitedto, rockets, explosive bombs dropped from models, smoke bombs, allexplosive gases (such as hydrogen-filled balloons), ground mounteddevices launching a projectile. The only exceptions permitted arerockets flown in accordance with the National Model Rocketry SafetyCode or those permanently attached (as per JATO use); also thoseitems authorized for Air Show Team use as defined by AST AdvisoryCommittee (document available from AMA HQ). In any case, modelsusing rocket motors as primary means of propulsion are limited to amaximum weight of 3.3 pounds and a G series motor. Note: A modelaircraft is defined as an aircraft with or without engine, not able tocarry a human being.

10. I will not operate any turbo jet engine (axial or centrifugal flow) unlessI have obtained a special waiver for such specific operations from theAMA President and Executive Director and I will abide by any restric-tion(s) imposed for such operation by them. (Note: This does notapply to ducted fan models using piston engines or electric motors.)

11. I will not consume alcoholic beverages prior to, nor during, participa-tion in any model operations.

Radio Control1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground range

check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators until Ibecome a qualified flier, unless assisted by an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit or specta-tor areas, and I will not thereafter fly over pit or spectator areas,unless beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies currentlyallowed by the Federal Communications Commission. (Only properlylicensed Amateurs are authorized to operate equipment on AmateurBand frequencies.) Further, any transmitters that I use at a sanctionedevent must have a certified R/CMA-AMA gold sticker affixed indicat-ing that it was manufactured or modified for operation at 20 kHz fre-quency separation (except 27 MHz and 53 MHz).

5. I will not knowingly operate an R/C system within 3 miles of a pre-existing model club flying site without a frequency sharing agreementwith that club.

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