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Epoxy & PolyasparticInstallation Instructions

DIY Installation instructions

WHAT YOU MAY NEED:

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• Two-part Weatherskin epoxy or polyaspartic

• Applicable tint, flake, stain, anti-slip, glitter or other additives

• Diamond grinder

• Walk behind concrete blaster

• Scraper

• Shop vacuum

• Tarp

• Wire brush

• Rubber squeegee

• Plastic sprinkler can (if acid etching)

• Drill with stirring bit

• Paintbrushes

• 9-inch medium-nap microfiber pads, rollers and roller poles

• Tape

• Plastic bag

• Pour pails or buckets

• Cleaning/degreasing solution

• Rubber gloves

• Respirator

• WS:Primer (if applicable)

• 32-percent muriatic acid (if acid etching)

• Garden hose (if acid etching)

• Power scrubber with brush attachment or long-handled acid brush (if acid etching)

WHAT YOU MAY NEED:

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Important Note: Only the installer is familiar with actual job site conditions. Installation instructions cannot cover all eventualities. These instructions are designed for a typical application. If you have an atypical application or think you may have an atypical application, please contact us immediately. Proper installation is the responsibility of the installer.

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To insure the success of your floor system, proper substrate preparation is key! The best method of surface preparation is grinding.  We recommend using a handheld diamond grinder or walk behind single head diamond grinder for larger projects (250sqft) or more.  Grinding the surface exposes the pores of the concrete which allows the coating to penetrate for a monolithic bond. 

A vacuum should be attached to the grinder to remove the dust and debris while grinding.  Begin by inspecting the floor for discolorations from oil and other contaminants.  Using a degreaser, clean the contaminated areas and let dry. If doing a garage, after the floor has dried, start by snapping a chalk line at the middle of the garage door track from one side to the other.  Next grind along the chalk line being sure not to go over the line.  Continue grinding the remainder of the floor until uniform in appearance and porosity. 

PREPARATION

PREPARATION

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(Quick test)

Take a little cup of water and using your hand dip a few ounces of water onto the surface.  If the water soaks into the concrete quickly the surface has been properly prepared.  If the water sits on the surface and does not want to be absorbed by the concrete, more of the surface needs to be ground to expose open pores.  

Once you have properly ground the surface, using a shop vacuum, thoroughly vacuum the floor to remove all dust and debris.   This will complete the surface preparation for either your garage, basement or exterior floor.

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Use of Acid Etching:

Use a hose to wet the entire floor with water. Working in 5-foot-square sections, use a power scrubber with a brush attachment and the degreaser to clean the entire floor. Use the stiff-bristle brush to scrub the corners and along the walls where the machine can't reach. After the floor is clean, use a rubber squeegee to pull soapy water into a central area. Remove the solution with a wet-dry vac. Check with your county's environmental office to see if you are allowed to dispose of the solution by flushing it down the toilet.

Pour a gallon of water into a plastic sprinkler can. Wearing a vapor respirator, pour 12 ounces of 32-percent muriatic acid into 15 cups of water (for smaller or larger amounts, use 1-part acid to 10 parts water) in the sprinkler can. Mix the solution for a few seconds with a paint stirrer. (Always add the acid to water, not water to acid to prevent violent chemical reaction) Sprinkle the mixture evenly over a 10x10-foot area.

Power-scrub the 10x10-foot area for 10 minutes or use a long-handled acid brush (to save on equipment rental). Repeat the sprinkling/scrubbing process until the entire floor is acid etched. Rinse three times to flush acid residue. Let the floor dry overnight.

Use of WS Primer:

New dense surfaces, such as tile, stone (should it contain silicate), smooth concrete, densified concrete, should be free of oil, dirt, grease, curing compounds or other bond breakers. These surfaces can be coated with WS: Primer resulting in a more efficient and less costly surface preparation such as shot blasting, scarification (acid etching) or grinding. Refer to the WS:Primer data sheet for application instructions.

Moisture Testing:

It is common to have hydrostatic vapor transmission.  This means moisture or vapor travels through the pores of the concrete and comes to the surface with some degree of pressure.  Some degree of moisture at the surface is acceptable when applying liquids to concrete, but too much will lead to adhesion problems.  To determine if moisture is present place a black plastic bag on the prepped surface and tape down tight with duct tape. Inspect the test areas after 8 hours of adhesion to the substrate.  Look at the plastic and if moisture is present on the underside of the test plastic then you should apply a liquid vapor barrier (ask about Weatherskin WSM2: Below Ground) prior to installing the floor coating system. 

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Vapor Barrier Application:

If it is determined by the moisture test patches that there is vapor transmission present in your concrete substrate, you will need to apply one coat of liquid vapor barrier (WSM2: Below Ground) prior to installing your floor system.   First make sure the floor is clean, dry and free of debris.  Start with opening the container of liquid vapor barrier.  Give it a quick stir with a stir stick and pour it into a paint tray.  Using a 3/8 nap roller cover (supplied), roll out an even coating of liquid vapor barrier (1 gallon covers 200-250 sq./Ft) to completely saturate the concrete.  The vapor barrier will soak into the pores of the concrete and solidify to block out vapor transmission.  One even coating will do just fine!  Let dry for 2 hours before beginning with step one of the floor system installation.

Floor Joints:

Most garage floors and concrete surfaces have what is called a control joint.  This is a purposefully placed saw cut that is designed to control where the concrete will eventually crack.  YES, I said eventually crack!  It is an almost certainty that concrete will crack.  So, the installers of the concrete place saw cuts so the concrete cracks in the joints of the cuts instead of a spider web of cracks throughout your floor!  For a seamless look to your floor system we recommend using a flexible joint filler such as polyurethane or polyurea caulking. First, ensure the joint is clean by using a wire brush or compressed air. Using a small putty knife or drywall taping knife fill the control joint and scrape the surface smooth to remove all excess material. The surface of the caulking material should be flush with the concrete after filling the joints.  If the control joints are not completely flush after your first application of caulking wait 2-3 hours or until dry to the touch and apply another coat of caulking to make the joints flush with the surface.

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Stress Cracks:

Some garage floors and concrete surfaces will have some stress cracks. This is common and easy to fix using the WS Crack Filler. The WS Crack Filler material comes in a small kit and is applied with a small putty knife or drywall taping knife.   Look over the floor and note all the cracks before beginning the repair.  Mix up the WS Crack Filler material per instructions on the label and fill in all the cracks.  (Tip) apply the WS Crack Filler material much like drywall mud.  Apply in one direction and scrape off the surface in the opposite direction along the crack.  Be sure to scrape all excess material from the surface so there are no globs or excess material.  Allow WS Crack Filler to dry for 2-3 hours, or until it is dry to the touch then proceed with step 1 of the installation instructions.

PRE-COATING SET UP

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Start with preparing a staging and mixing area just outside the garage. Lay down a small tarp, garbage bin, and 2 empty 5-gallon pails along with the required material to perform the job. Opening the container(s) of the tint liquid you will need for that coat and giving it a good stir until uniform in color. (Stir all mix containers you plan to use, as you may forget later) Next get your epoxy cleats adjusted so they fit snuggly over your shoes.

Install a micro-fiber roller cover to the roller frame and attach the frame to a broom handle or extension pole.  Have all your materials and installation tools prepared.  Mask off any areas where you could accidentally contact with a wet roller. Walls, doors, trim etc.….    Along the chalk line you made earlier at the edge of the garage door opening, run a strip of tape to the outside edge of the line.  This will be the end point of the floor system.  Once completely coated you will pull the tape off to reveal a nice straight edge. (Re-tape each coat)

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Epoxy Floor System Installation instructions

Read all the instructions before starting step one!  For the best results and ease of installation we recommend 2 people install the system. 

Step 1:  Base coat application

Important Note: Weatherskin epoxy or Weatherskin WS107: Polyaspartic diluted with 10% max. WS Reducer is to be used for your Basecoat. This coat should always be thin, approx. 6 mils to ensure absorption into the porous concrete. It is a common mistake to apply product to thick on the base coat.

Begin by mixing parts A and B, resin and hardener components together in a spare mixing bucket with your stirring bit drill attachment (Mix small amounts material at a time until you are used to working with your materials). Add your tint additive if applicable (having a solid color underneath assists the final look of a metallic finish being applied in the following inter coat(s)) Next pour out the mixed base coat material onto the floor along the inside wall of the area you are coating. Be sure to plan your way out before you begin.  Then use a brush to get into all the corners, verticals and areas the roller or squeegee can’t get too. Next flood the floor with your mixed coating by pouring a line of product approx. every 24 inches over the surface area you plan to coat. Spread out the mixed coating with a squeegee and back roll with 3/8” micro-fiber nap roller.  Or completely saturate the roller and begin rolling material on to the concrete surface like you would paint on a wall.  If you are only going to apply with a roller, Use the Dip and roll technique.  Simply pour the mixed material into a paint tray and dip the roller in and apply to the substrate. (NOTE) You will have about 25 minutes to use the mixed materials.  Start at the farthest corner of the garage from your mix station and work from one side of the space across to the opposite wall.  Work across the room in approximately four-foot-wide passes being sure to slightly overlap the previous pass.  The roller cover holds the appropriate amount of material to cover 2-3 square feet for each dip in new material, so apply the coat without drying out the roller between dipping.  Open and mix new gallon kits of material until the concrete substrate is completely coated.  After you have coated up to the taped line at the edge of the garage door opening, pull the tape off so the coating does not wick under it. Once the Base coat is complete wait 6-8 hours or until dry to proceed to step 2.

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Step 2:  Inter Coat(s) application

Important Note: Flakes or other media like anti-slip silica, quartz, glitters, metallics, tint will be broadcast in this step. Broadcast flake at your desired spread rate into the WET (installed) broadcast coat. We suggest doing small sections at a time. Broadcast into wet basecoat let dry. Depending on desired esthetic, flakes and other additives can be distributed at different ratios. For full flake covered floors, distribute 10% extra flakes to ensure maximum coverage. Remove loose chips with broom and shop vac floor. Apply clear topcoat over chips to encapsulate. 

Important Note: Depending on the desired esthetic or function you may require more than 1 inter-coat for maximum protection and best finish.

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Open your box of decorative broadcast media and place directly outside the garage door so it’s readily available for use!  (Tip) an empty ice cream pail can be used to transport the broadcast media to the garage floor when broadcasting.  

Begin by mixing parts A and B, resin and hardener components together with your stirring bit drill attachment in a spare mixing bucket (Mix small amounts material at a time until you are used to working with your materials). Next pour out the mixed base coat material onto the floor along the inside wall of the area you are coating. Be sure to plan your way out before you begin.  Then use a brush to get into all the corners, verticals and areas the roller or squeegee can’t get too. Next flood the floor with your mixed coating by pouring a line of product approx. every 24 inches over the surface area you plan to coat. Spread out the mixed coating with a squeegee and back roll with 3/8” micro-fiber nap roller.  Or completely saturate the roller and begin rolling material on to the concrete surface like you would paint on a wall.  If you are only going to apply with a roller, Use the Dip and roll technique.  Simply pour the mixed material into a paint tray and dip the roller in and apply to the substrate. (NOTE) You will have about 25 minutes to use the mixed materials.  Start at the farthest corner of the garage from your mix station and work from one side of the space across to the opposite wall.  Work across the room in approximately four-foot-wide passes being sure to slightly overlap the previous pass.  The roller cover holds the appropriate amount of material to cover 2-3 square feet for each dip in new material, so apply the coat without drying out the roller between dipping.  Open and mix new gallon kits of material until the concrete substrate is completely coated.   Your approx. mil thickness on your Inter coat will vary depending on the product and additives.

After you have coated up to the taped line at the edge of the garage door opening, pull the tape off so the coating does not wick under it. Once the Inter coat is complete wait 8-12 hours or until dry to proceed to step 3.

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STEP 3:   Top Coat application

The Top coating is the key to a durable floor system.  This coating should always be clear. Leaving a tinted or additive coat as a top-coat leaves the esthetic in a comparableposition. Remember that additives like flakes or tints aren’t nearly as durable as the epoxy, polyaspartics or polyurethanes they are combined with. The clearcoat protects the longevity and look of your new floor and is easy to maintain. (Far less visible streaking or water-marks left from vehicles/weather/cleaning)

The Top Coat is also a 2-component material comprised of resin and hardener. Refer to product data sheets for ratios. For interior applications not exposed to heavy UV WS102: Interior Epoxy is the perfect product. If your space doubles as a work-shop of sorts, we strongly recommend WS107: Polyaspartic as a top-coat. If you are applying the floor past the garage door into exposed sunlight always use WS107: Polyaspartic as a top-coat. Prepare your roller, frame, and tray, and mix parts B and A together for 2-3 minutes. This coating has a 25-35 minute pot life depending on which product you choose and temperature, meaning you have 25-35 minutes to work with the coating before it starts to become tacky. 

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Again, begin with using a brush, getting into all the corners and tight spots that a roller, trowel or squeegee can’t get too. Flood the floor in the same pattern as the previous coats. It is easiest to move the material around first with a squeegee or epoxy trowel first before rolling. (This is a good job for a helper) Begin rolling in the same fashion as the Inter coat, beginning in the furthest corner of the garage from your staging area and working in approximately four-foot-wide passes overlapping each pass slightly.  You should leave enough material on the surface to spread out evenly with the roller, but not so much it puddles or leaves lines, approximately 16 mils. Continue opening new containers of Top Coat and applying as necessary to completely cover the entire surface.  After completing the final Top Coat let the coating cure for 24hrs before foot traffic and 48 hours for vehicle traffic (refer to product data sheet - temperature variable). 

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It is common to have hydrostatic vapor transmission.  This means moisture or vapor travels through the pores of the concrete and comes to the surface with some degree of pressure.  Some degree of moisture at the surface is acceptable when applying liquids to concrete, but too much will lead to adhesion problems.  To determine if moisture is present place a black plastic bag on the prepped surface and tape down tight with duct tape. Inspect the test areas after 8 hours of adhesion to the substrate.  Look at the plastic and if moisture is present on the underside of the test plastic then you should apply a liquid vapor barrier (ask about Weatherskin WSM2: Below Ground) prior to installing the floor coating system. 

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