FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF HERBAL HAIR

OIL

A.Krishna sailaja and Sindhu Kadari, Department of pharmaceutics,

RBVRR Women’s college of pharmacy, Affiliated to Osmania

University

Email:- shailaja1234@rediffmail.com

ABSTRACT

Hair plays a vital role in the personality of human and for their cure we use lots of

cosmetic products. The fading (pigmentation problem), dandruff, alopecia (loss of

hair) is the major problem associated with hairs. Ayurvedic system is the traditional

system of medicine having major treatment across globe. objective of present study

involves preparation of herbal hair oil for increase in hair growth activity. Mixture of

crude drugs; fruits of Embelica officinalis(amla), flowers of Hibiscus rosa

sinensis(hibiscus), leaves of Bacopa monnieri (Brahmi) and seeds of Trigonella

foenumgraecum(methi) were prepared in varying concentration in the form of herbal

hair oil by three different oils preparation techniques. The oil was prepared according

to Ayurvedic Formulary of India. Thus, this report largely focussed on hair oils,

mainly based on the comparison of herbal hair oil with marketed hair oil.

Key words: Hair oil, Hibiscus, Amla, Methi, Brahmi.

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INTRODUCTION

The word Cosmetic was derived from the Greek word “Kosm tiko” meaning – Having

the power, arrange skill in decorating.

According to Drugs and Cosmetics Act,1940 cosmetics have been defined as “any

article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, or introduced into, or

otherwise applied to the human body or any other part therefore cleansing,

beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance and includes any

article intended for use as a component of cosmetic”.

Cosmetics are considered as essential components in life. They not only help to attract

the opposite sex but also impart a psychological advantage. They have gained

popularity for 3-4 decades and their use has increased exponentially since then both in

males and females. The most popular cosmetics are hair dyes, powders and creams.

Herbal products are a type of medicine that uses roots, stems, leaves, flowers, or seeds

of plants to improve health, prevent disease, and treat illness1.

Herbal products are available as tablets, capsules, powders, extracts, teas and so on.

Herbal products are thought to be safe as it is natural, but in fact it can cause serious

adverse effects if consumed improperly or in excessive amount.

Herbal cosmetics are used for both skin and hair care.

Herbal cosmetics, hereby in after referred as products, are formulated using various

permissible cosmetic ingredients to form the base in which one or more herbal

ingredients are used to provide defined cosmetics benefits only, shall be called as

“Herbal Cosmetics”

Herbal hair products are used for cleansing, removing dirt particles, styling, colouring,

etc

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HAIR OIL: Hair oil is oil applied to the hair as a cosmetic, conditioner, styling aid,

restorative or tonic. Hair oils are the hair care formulations applied for cure of hair

disorders such as baldness, greying of hairs, hair falling, and dryness of hairs. This

preparation is generally used to increase the growth of hair & remains healthy.

Types: mineral oils, vegetable hair oils2

HAIR LOTION: Hair lotion has a stimulating effect upon the hair follicles. They are

generally perfumed with oil of rosemary and others ascenes as it possesses a good

stimulating property.

HAIR COLORANTS: Hair colouring or hair dyeing, is the practice of changing the

colour. The main reasons for this are cosmetic: to cover grey or white hair, to change

to a colour regarding as more fashionable or desirable, or to restore the original colour

after it has been discoloured by hairdressing processes or sun bleaching.

Types: temporary hair colour, semi-permanent hair colour, permanent hair colour,

highlights etc

HAIR SHAMPOO: Herbal shampoos are the cosmetic preparations that with the use

of traditional ayurvedic herbs are meant for cleansing the hair and scalp just like the

regular shampoo. They are used for removal of oils, dandruff, dirt, environmental

pollutions etc.

FUNCTIONS: Lubrication, Conditioning, Hair growth, maintenance of hair colour,

Medication

Types: anti-dandruff shampoo, anti-breakage shampoo etc.

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HAIR CONDITIONER: Conditioners that adds shine to the hair and make it tangle

free. after shampooing it's important to use hair conditioners to give increased

manageability to our hair, leaving it soft and shiny. The first and foremost purpose of

conditioner is to moisturise the hair and scalp.

Types: rinse-out conditioner, leave-in conditioner, deep conditioner

HAIR GELS: Hair gel is a hairstyling product that is used to harden hair into a

particular hair style.

Types: water-based pomade, oil-based pomade, hybrid pomade etc.

HAIR SERUM: Hair serum is a liquid based treatment usually formulated using

silicones that provide a protective layer over the hair fibre, assisting in smoothing fizz.

Types: streax pro hair serum, khadi herbal hair serum etc.

HAIR TONICS: The term “hair tonic” has been used for some hair preparations

because the term is used in therapeutics. Hair tonic is one kind of hair repairing tonic

and re-texturing the hair. There are two distinct types of products: -

1. Products those deals with specific problems of the hair. E.g., greasy hair, dandruff.

2. Those products which are intended for improving, restoring, & maintaining the

condition of the hair

ADVANTAGES

• They do not provoke allergic reaction & do not have negative side effects

• They are easily incorporated with skin & hair.

• Extract of plant decrease the bulk properties of cosmetics & gives appropriate

pharmacological effects.

• Easily available & found in large variety & quantity.

• Easy to manufactures and chief in cost

DISADVANTAGES

• Herbal drugs have slower effects as compare to allopathic dosage forms.

• It requires long term therapy.

• They are difficult to hide taste & odour sometimes.

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• Manufacturing process are time consuming & complicated.

• No pharmacopeia defines any specific procedure or ingredients to be used in any of

herbal cosmetics.

HAIR OILS

Hair oils are the hair care preparations used for the prevention and treatment of baldness or

other ailments, aggression of hair. They also promote the luxurious growth of hairs. Hair

oil containing herbal drugs are used as hair tonic. Hair oil is oil applied to the hair as

a cosmetic, conditioner, styling aid, restorative or tonic. Different hair oils have been used

for many different purposes such as hair growth, health, dryness, scalp, or to fix damaged

hair. When oil is first applied, the oil forms a protective hydrophobic film that decreases

trans epidermal water loss as it reduces evaporation from water from the skin. The

reduction of water loss is important to the scalp because it helps reduce hygral fatigue such

as swelling and dryness. Further so, hair oils fill up any gaps between the cuticle cells

which prevent the penetration of any damaging substances in the hair follicle3.

The massaging and oiling to your hair stimulates the blood circulation, which in

return helps your hair. Due to the oil your hair is protected from the strong and hot sunrays.

Hair oil should have following properties:

1.They should give luster to the hair, retain them soft & flowing

2.Keep the brain cool.

3. Should not be sticky.

4.Prevent intense drying from

environment. 5.Replace lost proteins,

moisture, nutrients.

USE OF HAIL OIL

Humans produce natural hair oil called sebum from glands around each follicle. Other

mammals produce similar oils such as lanolin. When hair oils are first applied onto the

scalp, the effect of the oil on the lipid barriers varies depending on the type of oil. Hair oils

has huge benefits due to the effect that it has on the scalp. When oil is first applied, the oil

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forms a protective hydrophobic film that decreases trans epidermal water loss as it reduces

evaporation from water from the skin. The reduction of water loss is important to the scalp

because it helps reduce hygral fatigue such as swelling and dryness. Further so, hair oils

fills up any gaps between the cuticle cells which prevent the penetration of any damaging

substances in the hair follicle.

TYPES OF HAIR OILS

1. Mineral oils (contains only mineral as base oil)

2. Vegetable oils (contains only vegetable as base oil)

sesame oil

Coconut oil

olive oil

Argan oil

jojoba oil

Almond oils

Castor oils

Each oil has its own use as each one provides different benefits to the scalp. Natural

Oils come from natural resources that are very high in nutrients such as vitamin, fatty

acids etc.

MINERAL OILS

Mineral Oil is an industrially produced derivative of crude oil. The crude oil under

goes a process of purification, until it is refined into slippery flued, use in a variety of

cosmetics. The problem with this process is that crude oil contains many toxins and

carcinogenic material. If properly distilled, this should be removed from mineral Oil.

Thus, mineral oil cannot be claimed us natural product as it is a processed product that

goes to serious of industrial steps to reach the supermarket shelf. The benefits of using

mineral oil on hair are extremely limited.

Benefits of using of mineral oil:

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Ability to hold moisture

condition

Curl formation

Scalp Non stickiness

It works with both conditioned and unconditioned hair

Affordability

VEGETABLE OILS

Sesame oil

Sesame oil is used as base oil in many ayurvedic preparation for hair growth for

example, Bhringraj oil. Since Sesame oil is an antimicrobial, it is a lot of scalp

infections and fungal infection. Sesame is best when used as hot oil treatment it is

condition hair, nourishes scalp, and gets rid of dandruff and the vitamin E in the oil

boost hair growth.

Coconut Oil

Coconut oil has been found to be one of the most commonly used oils in hair products

and just by itself. Coconut oil was found to have properties that reduce protein loss in

hair when used before and after wash. Coconut oil is known to have lauric acid, which

is a type of fatty acid that allows it to penetrate within the hair follicles and therefore

heal and repair hair that is damaged. Aside from this, coconut oil is also widely known

for moisturizing the hair to avoid breakage.

Olive Oil

Olive oil is highly moisturizing hair oil, rich in vitamin E which is very important for

hair growth. Olive oil has a high concentration of antioxidants which is good for both

hair and skin. Olive oil is lightweight and contains oleic acid which easily penetrates

the hair shaft and locks in the moisture. Olive oil is the best natural conditioner

available and gives touchable soft and smooth hair with regular use. Since this oil has

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anti- inflammatory properties, it helps in treating dandruff thereby reducing hair fall

and aiding in subsequent hair growth.

Jojoba Oil

The seeds of the jojoba plant are high in liquid wax and essential fatty acids found to

possess moisturizing and healing properties. Regular use of the oil makes hair lustrous

and frizz free. Jojoba oil aids in hair growth by helping in the growth of new hair

cells. It acts against dandruff and thus reduces hair fall.

Argan Oil

Argan oil has become a popular product used for hair treatment. Argan oil is relieved

from Morocco and is known for the conditioning effect that leaves hair soft and

relieves frizz. Argan oil also treat split ends. It is known as “liquid gold” for its

wonderful properties on hair and is absolutely great for hair damage from heat styling.

Avocado Oil

Avocado oil has many uses as it is very rich in nutrients. Avocado oil has a source of

high vitamin E, which is an antioxidant that helps with hair loss and encourages hair

growth.

Castor oil

Castor oil is rich in vitamin E, proteins, minerals. It is very viscous oil and is hard to

wash it off the hair. Castor oil has anti-microbial properties that help to get rid of

dandruff and other scalp issues. Castor oil contains ricinoleic acid which treats scalp

inflammations and diseases. Castor oil moisturizes and softens hair, maintaining the

moisture level in the hair growth. Since it is moisturizing in nature, it can be used to

treat dry scalp. Regular use of castor oil gives healthy, thick, and moisturized hair.

Benefits of Using Vegetable Oil for Hair Growth4

Vegetable oil contains antioxidants that remove toxins from the body and promote

hair growth.

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Using vegetable oil for hair growth ensures a sufficient release of essential nutrients to

stimulate hair growth and prevent the adverse effects of chemicals.

It is easy to comb healthy, strong hair without fear of breaking it. Vegetable oil is one

of the best natural ingredients for hair growth treatment.

WAYS TO USE HAIR OIL

Generally, hair oils could be introduced in a hair-care routine in many different ways.

Many cosmetic products have ingredients with natural hair oils that can be used such

as shampoo, heat protectant, hair drops, or hair masks. Technique that can be used to

maximize potential is to use overnight as a hair mask or by adding drops of oil into

shampoo and conditioner.

ADVANTAGES OF HAIR OILS

Massaging oil into your hair stimulates blood circulation and relaxes your body.

Oil gives hair extra shine.

Oiling your scalp growth and add moisture.

According to experts, if you oil your hair every day, you have to wash it every day as well!

Allowing the oil to soak in your scalp will lead to major infections like dandruff and an

itchy scalp. Therefore, washing off the excess oil from the hair is necessary.

Oiling scalp can counteract dry scalp.

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Oil conditions your hair and prevents it from being brittle and dull.

Some oils like castor oil and coconut oil promote hair growth.

DISADVANTAGES OF HAIR OILS

Many oils can be mixed to create blends for hair conditioning. Here are some oils that

promote healthy hair:

Jojoba oil is good for dry hair. It helps soften hair and can be used to detangle

hair before shampooing

Olive oil strengthens and nourishes hair

Coconut oil adds lubrication to the hair. It's useful for damaged hair due to it's

ability to strengthen it

Rosemary herbal oil is useful for unwanted and flaky dandruff problems.

Not all hair oils are created equal. Try to avoid products with petroleum; they clog

your pores and weigh your hair down. Use natural oils instead and only oil your scalp

as needed.

OVERVIEW ON BRANDED HAIR OIL PRODUCTS PRODDUCT -15

BRAND NAME: PARACHUTE

FOUNDER NAME: HARSH MARIWALA

PRODUCED BY: MARICO

BRAND DESCRIPTION:

Parachute is a brand name for a range of coconut-based hair products manufactured by

Marico.Harish Mariwala is an Indian entrepreneur, founder and chairman of Marico, a

fortune India 500 company. Parachute is a flagship brand of Marico. It is a brand name of

coconut-based hair products.Before 1992 economic liberalization in India, the government 10

classified vegetables oil as an essential commodity. In 1862, Kanji Morarji started a small

trading business Mumbai and in 1948, Bombay oil industries setup by Mariwala family. In

1990 Marico industries Limited company formed. It is the first brand of coconut oil in the

country. The journey of the oil began 4 decades ago.In 1990s, Marico made its first serious

entry into foreign markets by setting up a manufacturing plant in Bangladesh. Parachute

edible oil contains 100% coconut oil whereas advanced hair oil contains 50% mineral oil

along with coconut oil.Marico makes two kinds of coconut oil; one is Parachute edible

grade cum hair oil and other one is Parachute Advanced hair oil. After 6 years of intensive

research the product development and consumer, trial takes place in the market Products

Marico makes two kinds of coconut oil, Parachute edible grade hair oil, and Parachute

Advanced Hair oil. Parachute edible oil contains 100% coconut oil, whereas Advanced hair

oil contains coconut oil along with fragrance and Vitamin E.

PRODUCT NAME: PARACHUTE COCONUT HAIR OIL

DESCRIPTION: Parachute Coconut oil- India’s No.1 coconut oil contains only the

goodness of 100% pure coconut oil. It is made from naturally sun-dried coconuts sourced

from the finest farms of our country. The oil is extracted from the nuts through a

meticulous hands-free process. It goes through a 5-stage purification process and as many

as 27 quality tests are performed on the oil so that each bottle that reaches you is 100%

pure- EVERY SINGLE TIME. A tamper proof seal ensures that the rich aroma of raw

coconuts is preserved for a long time. It contains no added chemicals, scent, additives or

preservatives and lasts fresh & safe for up to 18 months. It is licensed by FSSAI as an

edible grade coconut oil. All this ensures that every bottle of coconut oil adheres to the

Parachute promise of being 100% safe and 100% pure.

Benefits of Coconut Oil:

For Cooking:

Coconut oil is rich in antioxidants and lauric acid. You will notice an increase in your

energy levels after the daily use of coconut oil in cooking. The antioxidants also help in

improving immunity. Moreover, coconut oil can reduce the cholesterol level in your body.

Replace your cooking oil with Parachute 100% pure coconut oil and live a healthy life.

For Skin:

Every essential oil retains moisture on the skin. But coconut oil can rejuvenate dry skin. If

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you love tanning sessions, you can use coconut oil to keep your skin safe from the UV

rays. It acts as a natural SPF protection. You can use pure coconut oil as an overnight

lotion for your face too. The antioxidants help reduce the marks and blemishes.

For Hair:

Coconut oil massage is bliss for stress release. But it can also benefit your scalp and hair.

Parachute coconut oil nourishes the scalp and roots of your hair follicles. Massage your

scalp with the coconut oil before you sleep for smooth, shiny, and healthy hair.

PROS AND CONS OF PARACHUTE HAIR OIL

Pros:

Parachute coconut oil is entirely unprocessed and pure.

It has versatile applications. You can use coconut oil for cooking or as a skin and hair

supplement.

Coconut oil is known for its therapeutic abilities. You can cure skin problems or regular

issues like headaches with coconut oil.

You can use coconut oil as a healthy food alternative. It is known to lower cholesterol

levels and improve immunity.

Cons:

The oil jams inside the bottle in cold temperatures. So, you need to heat the container in

hot water before using it.

The packing was not according to modern tastes.

SIDE EFFECTS OF COCONUT OIL

The most devastating side effects of coconut oil on your hair, and that is the clogging of

your hair follicles due to the build-up overtime. This build up can prevent hair from

growing and even halt the growth of new hair from breaking through the skin since it is

caked up with coconut oil.

Using Coconut Oil Can Cause Allergic Reactions:

Though it is promoted to be all natural, we know that even totally organic compounds can lead

to serious allergic reactions. In the case of coconut oil, there have been a number of cases

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in which frequent use has led to rashes on the scalp in addition to eczema! Though these

cases aren’t as prominent as common allergies such as peanuts or pollen, they can become

irritated and grow worse over time without proper treatment from a dermatologist. And yes

eczema and other scalp allergies do impede hair growth.

INGREDIENTS USED IN PARACHUTE COCONUT HAIR OIL

Parachute Coconut Hair Oil contains only one ingredient: one-hundred percent pure coconut

hair oil.

PREPARATION METHODS OF COCONUT HAIR OIL

Different types of coconut oil for edible purposes are available viz, virgin coconut oil from wet

coconuts (unrefined grade); coconut oil from dry coconuts (unrefined grade); and coconut

oil by solvent extraction method (refined from coconut expeller cake). Virgin coconut oil is

claimed to have more health benefits compared to coconut oil extracted from copra.

Wet coconut processing:

The wet coconuts are subjected to pressing to ooze the oil out along with coconut milk. This is

processed afterwards without employing heat, shear, chemicals, refining and is known as

virgin coconut oil. It is colourless with characteristic coconut flavour and finds several

applications in medicinal and cosmetics purposes.

Traditionally, virgin coconut oil is produced by fermentation method, where coconut milk

expelled from freshly harvested coconuts is fermented for 24-36 hr, and during this period,

the oil phase gets separated from aqueous phase. Further, the resulting wet oil is slightly

heated for a short time to remove the moisture and finally filtered.

The main disadvantages of this process are low oil recovery and fermented odour, which masks

the characteristic coconut flavour of the oil. In conventional methods for virgin coconut oil,

freshly extracted milk is centrifuged to obtain cream which is heated up to 60-80°C before

centrifuging to obtain the oil. Systematic research work has been carried out at CFTRI for

the production of several value-added products from coconut, one of them being virgin

coconut oil. In the CFTRI process, virgin coconut oil is obtained by ‘wet processing’

without heat, shear and chemicals within overall yield of 87.5%. oil.

PRODUCT-2

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BRAND NAME: DABUR

FOUNDER NAME: S. K. BURMAN

BRAND DESCRIPTION:

Dabur (Dabur India Ltd.) derived from Daktar Burman is India's largest Ayurvedic

medicine manufacturer. The Dabur began with a small, but visionary endeavour by

Dr. S. K. Burman, a physician tucked away in Bengal. He has set up Dabur in 1884 to

produce and dispense Ayurvedic medicines. Reaching out to a wide mass of people

who had no access to proper treatment. Dabur India Ltd is one of the leading FMCG

Companies in India. The company is also a world leader in Ayurveda with a portfolio

of over 250 Herbal/Ayurvedic products. They operate in key consumer products

categories like Hair Care, Oral Care, Health Care, Skin Care, Home Care and Foods.

The company's FMCG portfolio includes five flagship brands with distinct brand

identities, Dabur as the master brand for natural healthcare products, Vatika for

premium personal care, Hajmola for digestives, Real for fruit juices and beverages and

Fem for fairness bleaches and skin care products.14

NAME OF THE PRODUCT: DABUR AMLA HAIR OIL

DESCRIPTION: Dabur Amla Hair Oil nourishes your hair with its Ayurvedic

ingredients and makes it strong from the roots. It is packed with vitamin C. This oil

gives the hair shine and keeps it clean and voluminous. Dabur Amla Hair Oil also

stimulates hair growth and makes your hair longer. It helps reduce hair fall as well as

split ends. You will also see a decrease in hair breakage. This oil prevents your hair

from getting damaged by weather conditions and helps in taming fizziness. It reduces

scalp infestations like flakiness and dandruff. By massaging the oil onto the scalp, you

can prevent scalp infections and scabs from appearing. It is watery and non-sticky

with ayurvedic fragrance.

An excellent herbal blend of Brahmi and amla that helps to stop premature hair fall.

Brahmi is known for its proven hair growth promoting properties. It also strengthens

hair follicles by improving blood circulation. Amla extract act as a hair tonic.

Benefits of Dabur Amla Hair Oil

Moisturizes your scalp

Enhances natural hair colour

Controls pre-mature greying of hair

Enhances healthy hair growth

Nourishes hair from root to tip

Prevents dryness of hairs

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Pros and Cons of Dabur Amla hair oil:

Pros:

Easily available

Non sticky hair oil

Gets washed off easily

Cons:

Smell is bit too strong, light smell stays on even after washing off

Contains mineral oil

SIDE EFECTS:

In some rare cases, amla oil has been reported to trigger Lichen Planus

Pigmentosus (LPP), especially with UV exposure and in naturally darker

skinned individuals.

People allergic to gooseberries may experience Contact Dermatitis.

Amla oil is also known to rarely cause inflammation and skin irritation in some

people.

INGREDIENTS USED IN DABUR AMLA HAIR OIL

Vegetable oils (sesame oil, canola oil, peanut oil, palmolien oil) including amla extract

58%, mineral oil 40% (liquid parafinium), colours, perfume, anti-oxidant- tertiary

butyl hydroquinone (TBHQ)

Active Ingredient:

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The active ingredient in Dabur Amla hair oil is Embelica officinalis extract, also

known as amla extract or Indian gooseberry. According to AyurvediCure.com, amla

extract works to strengthen the hair and prevent greying. Although boiling the amla

berry in coconut oil is the usual preparation method, Dabur Amla uses canola oil as an

alternative.

Emollients

Emollient ingredients help to soften the hair by coating and protecting the hair shaft,

preventing moisture from escaping. Emollient ingredients in Dabur Amla hair oil

include the petroleum based emollient parafinium liquidum, more commonly called

liquid petroleum or mineral oil, and canola oil.

Emulsifier

Emulsifiers prevent oil and water-based ingredients from separating. In addition, these

ingredients work to thicken and give the hair oil a smooth texture. Oleic acid, a

component in canola oil, serves as an emulsifier, and palm glycerides work as a

thickening agent.

Antioxidant

glutyl hydroquinone is the antioxidant ingredient in Dabur Amla hair oil. According to

research, antioxidant ingredients in hair care products help to reduce damage caused by

overexposure to the sun.

PREPARATION METHODS OF DABUR AMLA HAIR OIL

The herbs used in the present study for making hair oil were dried, crushed and passed

through sieve no.80 and olive oil was used as a base. The hair oil was prepared using

following method:

Direct Boiling method:

The crude drugs were powdered, weighed accurately and directly boiled in olive oil

with continuous stirring and heating until the drug had completely extracted in the

oil base. The composition of the oil was mixed in 100ml of the olive oil. After

extraction completed then they are filtered by muslin cloth individually. The hair

oil taken in beaker and covered by aluminium foil and keep in cool condition.

USAGE OF DABUR AMLA HAIR OIL

Message your scalp with the Dabur Amla Hair Oil and left for 2-3 hours for best result

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you can leave overnight, shampoo next morning and get the shiny, smooth and silky

hair.

EFFECTIVENESS OF PARACHUTE COCONUT HAIR OIL MIXED WITH

HERBS

MATERIALS: fruit of Embelica officinalis(amla), flowers of Hibiscus rosa

sinensis(hibiscus), leaves of Bacopa monnieri (Brahmi), Lawsonia inermis(henna),

curry leaves, gel of aloe leaves (alovera), seeds of Trigonella foenumgraecum(methi),

and parachute coconut hair oil.

Amla

Hibiscus

Henna

Biological source: Dried leaves of Murraya koenigii

Family: Rutaceae

Use: Prevents hair fall and premature greying of hair.

Biological source: Dried leaves of Hibiscus rosasinensis

Family: Malvaceae

Use: nourishes and thickens hair.

Biological source: Dried leaves of Lawsonia inermis

Family: Lythraceae

Use: hair colorant, helps in hair growth

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Curry Leaves

Alovera

Fenugreek

Coconut oil:

Biological source: Dried leaves of Murraya koenigii

Family: Rutaceae

Use: Prevents hair fall and premature greying of hair

Biological source: Dried latex of aloe

Family: Liliaceae

Use: Boosts scalp, reduces dandruff and conditions hair

Biological source: Dried seeds of

Trigonella foenum- graecum

Family: Leguminosae

Use: Moisturises hair and replenishes hair growth.

Biological source: Oil derived from dried fruits of

Cocus nucifera

Family: Arecaceae

Use: Moisturiser, vehicle, stimulates hair growth

by unclogging pores

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FORMULATION

INGREDIENTS QUANTITY (for 50 ml)

Coconut oil 50ml

Amla extract 5 grams

Hibiscus extract 5 grams

Henna leaves extract 5 grams

Curry leaves 5 grams

Fenugreek 5 grams

Alovera gel 5 grams

METHADOLOGY

PREPARATION OF PARACHUTE COCONUT OIL MIXED WITH HERBS:

The herbs used in the present study for making herbal oil were dried, crushed and

passed through 80 mesh stainless steel sieves and alovera gel is directly added to the

base while preparation. Parachute coconut hair oil was used as base. The preparation

was done by using direct boiling method.

Direct boiling method:

The crude drugs were dried, powdered, weighed accurately and directly boiled in

parachute coconut hair oil with continuous stirring and heating until the drug had

completely extracted in the oil base. After extraction is completed then they are

filtered by muslin cloth individually. The hair oil taken in beaker and covered by

aluminium foil and keep in cool condition.

BENEFITS OF PARACHUTE COCONUT OIL MIXED WITH HERBS:

1. Promotes healthy and faster hair growth

2. Reduces greying of hair

3. Reduces dandruff

4. Reduces hair fall

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EFFECTIVENESS OF BRANDED DABUR AMLA HAIR OIL

REPLACED WITH HERBS TO REDUCE SIDE EFECTS

People who are allergic or sensitive to the materials present in Dabur amla hair oil

causes side effects such as Lichen Planus Pigmentosus (LPP) especially with UV

exposure and in naturally darker skinned individuals, Contact Dermatitis in people

sensitive to gooseberries (amla) and also causes skin infections rarely. Hence, in order

to reduce the side effects, the materials which are responsible for causing side effects

are replaced with alternate herbs to reduce the side effects in patients who are allergic

or sensitive to it.

EVALUATION TESTS FOR HAIR OILS

The prepared hair oils are then subjected to physical, chemical and biological

evaluation of various parameters described below:

A. Physical evaluation

In physical evaluation, determination of parameters like specific gravity, pH,

acid value, saponification value is conducted.

a. Specific gravity:

Initially empty specific gravity bottle is weighed. Then the same

specific bottle is filled with water and again weighed. Later specific

gravity bottle is replaced with hair oil and weighed again. Weighs are

noted and thus specific gravity of hair oils is calculated.

Weight of specific gravity bottle = w1 grams.

Weight of specific gravity bottle with water = w2 grams

Weight of specific gravity bottle with hair oil = w3 grams

Specific gravity of hair oil is calculated as

p = w3-w1/w2-w1 x p

b. pH

The pH is determined by using digital Ph meter. 20ml of herbal hair oil

is taken in a biker and the bulb of PH meter is dipped in. The obtained

PH values are noted down.21

c. Viscosity

Viscosity is a measure of the resistance of fluid to deform under either

shear stress or extensional stress. It is commonly perceived as

“thickness”, or resistance to flow. It is expected to be higher in hair oil

B. Chemical evaluation

a) Acid value:

One gram of substance is dissolved accurately in 5ml of mixture of

equal volume of Ethanol and Ether previously neutralized with 0.1 M

KOH. If the sample is not dissolved properly then reflects condenser is

connected and the sample is warmed slowly with frequent stirring until

the sample dissolved. Then 1 ml phenolphthalein solution is added and

titrated with

0.1 M KOH until the solution remained as faintly pink after shaking for

30 minutes.

Acid value is calculated from the following equation,

Acid value = 5.61 x n/w

Where, n = no. of ml of 0.1M KOH, w = weight of substance

b) Saponification value:

2ml of hair oil is weighted and transferred into a 25 ml of conical flask.

To the 25 ml alcoholic KOH solution is added. It is heated on water bath

for 30 minutes by frequently mixing the content of the flask;

Phenolphthalein is added to cooled liquid and titrated against 0.5M HCL.

Blank solution is prepared and saponification values are calculated.

Saponification value = (b-a) x 28.05/ wight o substance

Where, b= blank value, a= assay value.

c) Peroxide value:

It is very important parameter where the Peroxide value is used as

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measurement of the extent to which rancidity (deterioration of end

product is judged) reaction have occurred during storage. As per the

Indian Standard, it should not exceed 10.0 me per 1000 gm of oil.

d) Microbiological and Heavy metal text:

As per the Indian Standard in the hair oil microorganism should not be

more than 1000 per gram of oil. As per the Indian Standard, heavy

metals, lead (pb) and arsenic (As2O3) should not exceed 10 and 1 ppm

respectively in hair oil.

C. Biological evaluation

a) Primary skin irritation test:

The prepared formulation is assessed for primary skin irritation test.

Healthy human volunteers are selected for the study. The hair of each

volunteers of 1cm2 is shaved which could accommodate three test sites. It

is cleaned with surgical spirit. The quantity of formulations are applied

over respective test site and observed for erythema and edema for 48

hours after applications.

b) Hair growth initiation test:

Quantitative model by UNO is used with slight modification for the study

of hair growth initiation. The rabbits are divided in 4 groups of 1 rabbit

each and 2 cm2 areas are shaved to remove hairs. Patches are developed

on each rabbit. All rabbits are treated with all the extracted oils

preparation in same pattern. This treatment is continued for 15 days and

during the course the hair growth initiation patter is observed and

reported.

c) Hair growth activity:

The rats are divided into different groups of 5 rats each and 2 cm2 area of

the dorsal portion of each of the rats is shaved. Group 1 has kept as

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control, where there was no oil treatment and in other group, oil

preparations are applied once a day respectively. The treatment is

continued for 30 days and during the course the hair growth pattern is

observed qualitatively and recorded.

CONCLUSION

From the above information we conclude that, the mixture among parachute coconut

hair oil with herbs is the most effective to promote hair growth than others, thus it has

potential as alternative way to be used for hair treatment.

The usage of the product depends on the sensitivity of the skin and hair of the

individual. So, in such case people who are allergic to amla and mineral oils present in

Dabur amla hair oil can use the mixture of replaced herbal ingredients hair oil for

better effect on hair.

As every marketed product is made with herbal extracts, they also contain some

amount of chemicals which have both benefits and side effects. Hence, it’s better to

prepare our own hair oil by natural herbs which are suitable for our skin and hair to

promote hair growth and can also be used in hair treatments as well.

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REFERENCES

1. Y. Bhadankar; Herbal products for hair care, SlideShare (2019) 3-4.

2. Nirali Prakashan; cosmetic science text book 6-8

3. R K Nema et al Journal of Chemical and Pharmaceutical Research, 2009 4

4. Hair oil From Wikipedia, the free encyclopaedia 5-9

5. Parachute brand Wikipedia 10

6. Coconut Oil for Hair Growth: A Review of the Scientific Literature, (2019) by

Sophia 11-14

7. Jitesh Mon Mullol, Perception and satisfaction of youth on Indulekha hair oil

(2018) 19

8. Cosmetic science text book 24- 28

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